Thanks for the advice guys. A little history on the keel... I went on the
list serve with the original problem a few years ago. In the first year by mid
season I had a 20 gallon a day leak flooding up through the stringer behind the
aft most keel boat. I limped from Milwaukee back to Chicago and hauled out.
They dropped the keel and found that there was almost no sealant left in the
joint and there was a vertical crack along the edge of the aft keel boat hole,
causing the leak. They filled the crack with epoxy, faired the mating
surfaces, caulked the hell out of it with 4200 and tourqed the bolts. They
also said it was some what wet under the mast in the filler where the long
forward bolt comes up. They repaired that as well. Last season bilge was dry,
no issues. I was surprised to see the joint opened back up this fall,
especially considering our short sailing season here. I usually don't exceed
1800 on the back stay but will try and get by with even less this season and
see if that makes a different.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Jake Brodersen <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:
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>
>Erik,
>
>
>
>The keel joint on the 35-3 can be a pain. The “C&C Smile” as it is known,
>often appears as the hull to keel joint opens up. Many times this is only a
>cosmetic issue. I have removed and replaced the keel on my boat once in an
>attempt to cure this problem. It has worked well. The sources of my problem
>were many. The keel stub had cracks in it. The mast step had sunk a bit. I
>also had some water stagnating in the mast step. All of these problems were
>solved by removing the keel, reinforcing the keel stub, and reengineering the
>mast step. Cheap? No. But the boat is stronger for it.
>
>
>
>Your problem may not be as serious, but deserves some consideration. The
>forward keel bolt is under the mast. The only way to tighten it is to remove
>the mast. I have done that again this season. If the forward bolt stays
>tight, I think the keel will have less of a tendency to separate from the keel
>stub. Minor gaps can be filled and painted. Significant gaps should be
>addressed as I have done.
>
>
>
>One of the things to think about is how much backstay tension you use.
>Anything over 2,000# is going to turn the boat into a banana and start to
>separate the keel. I try to keep it under 1,500#.
>
>
>
>I have pics of my R&R job. If you’d like to see them contact me off list.
>
>
>
>Jake
>
>
>
>Jake Brodersen
>
>“Midnight Mistress”
>
>C&C 35 Mk-III
>
>Hampton VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik
>Hillenmeyer via CnC-List
>Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:19 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
>
>
>
>Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned
>the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year.
> I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The
>keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when
>I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel.
> The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint
>in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably
>not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing
>with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only
>one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so
>they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group.
>
>
>
>Erik
>
>Chicago
>
>C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot
>
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