Stus-List (no subject)
http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com Erik Hillenmeyer ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Cutless Bearing
Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced. How difficult of a job is this? Does the rudder have to be removed to remove the prop shaft? How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from the strut? The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ if I have them do it. I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and needing them to come in anyway. Erik C&C 35-3___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Seaward Princess oven
My 1984 35-3 has a seaward princess oven, I believe the model 3372. The current issue is that the oven will not light. After a season of becoming progressively hard to light it stopped all together. The burners seemed to still work fine, but I've now noticed that even though the burners work the flame is incredibly small and goes out when set below high. I don't think, looking at the pressure gauge, that there is a leak in LP system anywhere. I'm not that familiar with these systems so I'm not sure where to look to start diagnosing, but am also finding online that parts for these models are discontinued and very hard to find except one company that accepts cores for repair (Sure Marine Service). Any advice on diagnosing or repairing these ranges? Erik C&C 35-3 Slapshot Chicago___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List DC distribution panels
Does anyone know where to get replacement DC circuit breaker panel that are the same dimensions as the original panel (1984 C&C 35-3). The originals are 8 position panels that measure 9" H x 5" W. I can't find anything online that are these dimensions. Even 8 position panels from blue sea are much shorter, although they look like a great match. Erik C&C 35-3 Slapshot Chicago___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
Thanks, here's a link https://jetsupport.box.com/s/j6ikr0hl5n6dmgu02hqlgdzilbpt3c51 Jim Watts wrote: >Pictures of any usable size don't come through, but you could post to a photo >site and link the pix. > > >Jim Watts >Paradigm Shift >C&C 35 Mk III >Victoria, BC > > >On 19 April 2015 at 09:45, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List > wrote: > >Per feedback on the list after my original question I had a look around the >sump inside the boat. I did notice cracking where the stringers cross the >bilge. Not terribly deep but some are pretty long. Some looks like it may >have been repaired before, but I can't tell for sure. Pics are attached if >those work on the list. Could this just be crazing. Based on the joint I >think it's obvious it flexes there, is flexing all the way through the sump? > > >Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID > > > >Erik Hillenmeyer wrote: > >Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned >the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. > I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The >keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when >I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. > The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint >in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably >not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing >with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only >one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so >they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. > > >Erik > >Chicago > >C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot > > >___ > >Email address: >CnC-List@cnc-list.com >To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >of page at: >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
Per feedback on the list after my original question I had a look around the sump inside the boat. I did notice cracking where the stringers cross the bilge. Not terribly deep but some are pretty long. Some looks like it may have been repaired before, but I can't tell for sure. Pics are attached if those work on the list. Could this just be crazing. Based on the joint I think it's obvious it flexes there, is flexing all the way through the sump? Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Erik Hillenmeyer wrote: >Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned >the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. > I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The >keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when >I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. > The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint >in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably >not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing >with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only >one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so >they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. > > >Erik > >Chicago > >C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
Thanks for the advice guys. A little history on the keel... I went on the list serve with the original problem a few years ago. In the first year by mid season I had a 20 gallon a day leak flooding up through the stringer behind the aft most keel boat. I limped from Milwaukee back to Chicago and hauled out. They dropped the keel and found that there was almost no sealant left in the joint and there was a vertical crack along the edge of the aft keel boat hole, causing the leak. They filled the crack with epoxy, faired the mating surfaces, caulked the hell out of it with 4200 and tourqed the bolts. They also said it was some what wet under the mast in the filler where the long forward bolt comes up. They repaired that as well. Last season bilge was dry, no issues. I was surprised to see the joint opened back up this fall, especially considering our short sailing season here. I usually don't exceed 1800 on the back stay but will try and get by with even less this season and see if that makes a different. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID Jake Brodersen wrote: > > >Erik, > > > >The keel joint on the 35-3 can be a pain. The “C&C Smile” as it is known, >often appears as the hull to keel joint opens up. Many times this is only a >cosmetic issue. I have removed and replaced the keel on my boat once in an >attempt to cure this problem. It has worked well. The sources of my problem >were many. The keel stub had cracks in it. The mast step had sunk a bit. I >also had some water stagnating in the mast step. All of these problems were >solved by removing the keel, reinforcing the keel stub, and reengineering the >mast step. Cheap? No. But the boat is stronger for it. > > > >Your problem may not be as serious, but deserves some consideration. The >forward keel bolt is under the mast. The only way to tighten it is to remove >the mast. I have done that again this season. If the forward bolt stays >tight, I think the keel will have less of a tendency to separate from the keel >stub. Minor gaps can be filled and painted. Significant gaps should be >addressed as I have done. > > > >One of the things to think about is how much backstay tension you use. >Anything over 2,000# is going to turn the boat into a banana and start to >separate the keel. I try to keep it under 1,500#. > > > >I have pics of my R&R job. If you’d like to see them contact me off list. > > > >Jake > > > >Jake Brodersen > >“Midnight Mistress” > >C&C 35 Mk-III > >Hampton VA > > > > > > > >From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik >Hillenmeyer via CnC-List >Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 12:19 PM >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint > > > >Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned >the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. > I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The >keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when >I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. > The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint >in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably >not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing >with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only >one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so >they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. > > > >Erik > >Chicago > >C&C 35 MKIII Slapshot > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
Anyone else have annual issues with the keel joint on this boat? I've owned the boat only three seasons, but it's been a source of frustration every year. I've never understood the design, especially the 4 foot long front bolt. The keel was rebed and the bolts tourqed two years ago, but still every fall when I haul out there is crack in the joint across the front 1/3 - 1/2 of the keel. The only semi-permanent solution the yard can think of is to encase the joint in glass, but admits with all the flexing that clearly goes on, it's probably not much of a solution. Should I resign myself to just filling and fairing with caulk every spring before the bottom paint goes on? The boat had only one owner before me and it's been at the same yard for all its 31 years, so they know it well, but thought I'd get an opinion from the group. ErikChicagoC&C 35 MKIII Slapshot___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
