Re: Stus-List 1982 C&C 25
I looked at a few C&C 25 Mk 2's before I bought my Mk 1. Some of the early C&C 25 Mk 2's had an issue where that arch over the door in the cabin supports the mast step. I believe there was a recall to reinforce the area and then at some point in the production run a design change. With an extra long shaft outboard (25 inch) and a properly located bracket you won't have a problem with the prop coming out of the water. I have a 6 hp Tohatsu 4-stroke extra long shaft. You will have to raise and tilt the outboard to keep the prop from dragging when sailing, though. Under the best of circumstances an outboard on a transom bracket is a PITA. The extra long shaft outboard is a bit heavier than long shaft models, so don't go with any larger of a power head than you need. I basically only use my outboard to get home if the wind dies when I'm out sailing. There can be a significant weight difference among different outboard brands for the same hp rating. You might even consider trying to find a used 2-stroke, as they're considerably lighter. Don't skimp on the bracket. Get a heavy duty bracket with the spring assist or even the bracket with hydraulic assist. Other than the outboard transom bracket, both the 25 Mk 1 and Mk2 are great boats. Mark '73 C&C 25 Mk 1 > From: Roger Slade > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List 1982 C&C 25 > Message-ID: <478527662.8086346.1537359323...@mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi all, > New to the group.? I am going to look at a fresh water C&C 25 built in 1982 a > second time and wondered about any ideas of what to look for that is specific > to this model.? I believe this boat has a cored deck and cored hull, so will > look for any respective issues with water intrusion, deformities, etc.? Boat > has been sitting for past 8 years (indoors) so assume it may be difficult to > identify and wet areas of decking, but will look for any cracking or > deformities around stanchions, fittings, mast step, etc.? > Boat has a 15hp OMC saildrive which needs a rebuild (seized) , so thinking > strongly of removing that and filling in the hole and going with outboard.? > (engine is already out, but drive is stil in).? ? > Interested in any other thoughts on potential problem areas to check out. > Thanks!? ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List companionway bulkhead installation
I plan to install a Ram swing mount to the inside of the bulkhead adjacent to the companionway on my C&C 25. This will allow me to see my Garmin while I'm sailing but stow it out of the way when the hatch boards are in place. Having removed and reinstalled an old instrument from the bulkhead, I know there is an uneven gap of about 3/4" between the cabin liner that forms the forward face of the bulkhead and the deck liner that forms the aft face of the bulkhead. I want the base of the mount to be fairly secure so I'll probably secure it with screws through both the cabin and deck liner. Should I just drill the holes for the screws overrsized and fill with thickened epoxy similar to installing deck hardware? Can you do that with a vertical surface as opposed to a horizontal surface? Any suggestions (or alternatives)? Mark C&C 25 Williwaw ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth
I have the bottom of my 25 Mk1 down to bare gelcoat. I figured now is a good time to replace all the thru hulls including the old knotmeter and depth transducer. These have not been functional since I've owned the boat. I've gotten by with an old hand-held Garmin GPSmap 76. To be honest, I'm mainly just looking to plug the holes in the bottom. I managed to replace the old analog knotmeter with a combination of new and rebuilt parts. I'm now looking to replace the transducer. At some point the prior owner had a GPS or fishfinder mounted in the companionway because the bracket is still there. I'm looking to do something similar. I want a mounted GPS, and I want to be able to plug in the transducer for an actual depth measurement (rather than an approximate measurement from the electronic chart). And I'd like to do this for less than $500. I'm not looking to find shipwrecks or the last fish in the ocean, and I don't care about water temperature or what is 1000 feet below me. I just want to be able to anchor, avoid running aground, etc. At this point I think what I want is an obsolete Garmin GPSmap or Echomap 500 series, with an Airmar transducer. There's not much info online that's geared towards day sailors. Any advice or recommendations? Most thru-hull transducers seem to be 2.125 inches in diameter. The one I removed is 2.0. It's difficult to open up a 2.0 hole to 2.125 with a hole saw. Would you recommend grinding the hole larger with a Dremel? The transducer I removed was mounted in a wood fairing block. The deadrise angle seems to be about 10 degrees. I see that some of these transducers are internally gimbled up to 20 degrees. Is that the preferred approach for a sailboat considering the heeling angle on opposite tacks, etc.? Or should I just make another wood fairing block? Mark C&C 25 Dartmouth, MA___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat
I didn't start sailing til my early 30's. I started out in Tech dinghies, cat-rigged 12 footers. Dinghies are a great way to learn. Things happen fast in a dinghy. And since you're the ballast, you really learn to balance the boat. But they require a certain level of fitness and athleticism - particularly when you flip them and you have to right them in the water and climb back in. I then moved to 14 foot FJ's, a little more performance oriented but basically more of the same. Then to a J24, which is a completely different experience: you're in a cockpit, you have a foredeck, etc. Honestly, if I hadn't graduated to the J24, I might have stopped sailing. Little bit of time in an Etchells 22 around that time as well. From there I knew I didn't want to race so I moved into more cruising-oriented lessons. Boats were a 22 foot Soling, then a Pearson 26, an Albin 28, a J29, a Pearson 31, a Pearson 303 and a Cal 33. So I've taken starter lessons in both a 12 footer and a 22 footer. For an adult, I think you're much better off starting in a 22 foot keelboat than a 12 foot dinghy. My first and only boat has been the C&C 25 Mk1. I initially looked at everything made in any kind of quantity between 21 feet and 28 feet. I settled on the 24-26 foot size. I wanted something you could overnight in, without the complexity of a diesel. I continued to look hard at everything made in any kind of quantity in that size range. I loved boat donation auctions - a chance to see a lot of boats at once without an owner or a broker breathing down your neck. And the best way to identify a well-maintained boat is to see some poor ones. After seeing my first C&C 25, I settled on that make / model. Looked at a few examples, then bought one. Inexpensive, good condition, my only regret being I didn't buy a boat with more upgrades. I've since converted to jiffy reefing, put on a furler, a boom vang, a stern rail, an adjustable traveler, a backstay adjuster. This stuff in total far exceeds what I paid for the boat. If you sail in any kind of wind, a newbie sailor needs to know how to depower the boat and needs the gadgets on the boat that allow him to do so. Newbie sailors tend to sail with friends and family who know nothing about sailing and won't be much help when things get exciting. If the newbie sailor can't depower the boat from the cockpit with minimal assistance from "crew" (guests), they'll be terrorized and probably won't come back. Mark C&C 25 Dartmouth, MA___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List considering a 1981 C&C 25 - now head privacy
My 25 Mk1 has folding doors which separate the V-birth from the head, and a curtain to separate the head from the main cabin. I replaced the curtain, slides and slider track. The slides and slider track are RV (as in camper) items. You can find them online at places that supply RV parts. The buttons, including the bottom half which nails into the wood bulkheads, are available in craft stores. Mark C&C 25 Dartmouth, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C&C 25
The only issue I'm familiar with particular to the C&C 25 Mk2 is the support under the mast in the cabin. While the Mk1 had a substantial beam running across the top of the bulkhead to support the mast, which every Mk1 owner has banged his head on a hundred times, the Mk2 did not. I'm told that C&C actually "recalled" the early Mk2's to institute some kind of repair. I looked at several Mk2's before buying my Mk1, and they all had something going on in this area. I'd just pay attention to this area, and point it out to the surveyor. The C&C 25, both Marks, is a great boat. Take a look at a couple Hunters and Catalinas of the same size and vintage and the difference in build quality becomes apparent. Then take a look at a few C&C 25s and you can see the difference in how they've been maintained. It makes a difference over 40 years. And I'll give you some advice that I ignored: buy the boat that's been upgraded with things like a furler, self-tailing winches, etc. These boats are inexpensive now, sub $5k. But a furler is still $1500 and a pair of ST winches still $1200. Mark C&C 25 Dartmouth, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Traveler
I "upgraded" the traveler on my '73 C&C 25 Mk1 a few years back. The car didn't move freely, and neither did the pin stops. I agree, you need the ability to quickly drop the traveler. The C&C 25 Mk 1 has a curved track mounted on top of the transom, at an angle so the tension on the car is perpendicular to the track (end of boom sheeting). Even though I salvaged a track from another boat to use as a pattern for a custom replacement track, replacing the track wasn't really an option. Access to the back side of the mounting bolts is nonexistent. (Adding a stern rail to my boat was bad enough.) I believe the track and car on my boat are Fico. I was able to find a used car on Ebay, not great, but better than what I had. I added small blocks to the top of the car, and clam cleats at the sides of the cockpit. It was a significant improvement and cost me less than $50. And it doesn't preclude me from upgrading to something modern in the future. I'm curious if anyone else with a C&C 25 Mk 1 has upgraded their traveler? Mark Dartmouth, MA On 1 May 2017 at 19:10, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to repair the existing system? Cheers, J-G Sent from my iPadOn Jul 11, 2017, at 10:11, Sean Richardson via CnC-List wrote: Hi Sylvain, ? I?m looking to upgrade the original pin stop traveler on my27 mkIII. How well did the Lewmar fit down in the original track recess anddoes it clear the cockpit lockers on either side no problem? Would you happen tohave any pictures? ? ? Sean C&C 27 MKIII LYNX ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild
I've mentioned this place before on the list: http://www.mcssl.com/store/store.massmarineparts-temp.com/catalog/search?keyword=c+%26+c Looks like they've salvaged two newer 35's but not a Mk1. Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild Hi all I am looking for a replacement rudder for my Mk1. The boat is on it's 2nd rudder. What I have is just a straight spaderudder (I am not sure of it's origin ). A 100% new build from south shore yachts (or other) is possible but I'mlooking for more wallet friendly options. At this point I am looking at sling time to remove what I have, thenshipping it off for a rebuild then more sling time to reinstall. Are there any sources out there for salvaged parts? Or boats in barnsbeing parted out? Even a dead rudder with a good frame for a reasonableprice would save me some money and the headache of two trips to the yard. I am in Toronto, Canada. Any suggestions are appreciated. Derek DeVries ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List The boat is sold
Rick, I don't have a boat to sell you and I don't know of any for sale in that area! But I do want to thank you for all the information and advice you've provided to us 25 owners over the years. Many of us are newbie sailors and a 25 is our first boat. Your responses to our many questions have saved us a lot of time, money and frustration. You and Rick Brass are undoubtedly the 25 experts on the list! Glad to hear you'll be hanging around online. And congratulations on your retirement! Mark C&C 25 Mk 1 WILLIIWAW Dartmouth, MA Message: 4Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 22:19:21 -0300From: Rick Taillieu To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List The boat is soldMessage-ID: <003601d1f5c9$e35560b0$aa002210$@ca>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"Just a quick note to say the new owners of Nemesis have picked her up andmoved her up Halifax harbour to Dartmouth Yacht Club.She has gone to a good home and the new owners are going to join the list.Why did I sell her? I am retiring in October after 36+ years in the RCAFand this is the first step in my retirement plans.Next is to sell the house and move back home to southwestern Ontario.After we get settled in there, we plan on getting another boat in the 33-38ft range and cruise the great lakes.I've owned a boat since 1998 and it is weird not having to worry aboutstorms, hurricanes and taking time off for lift-out.I'm going to stay on the list and if any 25 owners have any questions, I'mhere. Rick Taillieu(now boatless)Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leak
My boat also has the limber holes that allow the settee lockers to drain to the bilge. They were there when I bought the boat. My boat also only has the manual bilge pump in the cockpit. I always planned to install an automatic bilge pump but never needed it. For the most part my boat is dry. While I sometimes get water in the bilge, it is barely enough to be drawn by the bilge pump. I've noticed water droplets on the inside of the hull below the toe rail, and at times there was salt residue. So I always thought that water splashing on the foredeck would get under the toe rail as it flowed aft and and drip down the inside of the hull. It also was apparent that there would be more water in the bilge after a heavy rainstorm. I've never tightened my toe rail bolts. It's on that list of things to be done. Curious about putting the toe rail of a C&C 25 in the water. I know it's not a desirable state of sailing, more of a mistake. But I've never seen the toe rail of my boat in the water, and I've had the boat heeled as far as 40 degrees. (I wouldn't have believed that number had my friend not got a photo of the compass.) I've put the toe rail of a Pearson 26 in the water, I know what it looks like. The C&C 25 is not all that stiff. I'd say the Pearson 26 is stiffer. So what is the difference? The beam, the freeboard, the shear, a combination of all of them? Mark C&C 25 Mk 1 Mattapoisett, MA -- Message: 1Date: Sun, 1 May 2016 23:15:53 -0400From: "Rick Brass" To: Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leakMessage-ID: <000a01d1a420$f054e7e0$d0feb7a0$@earthlink.net>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" My 25, a MK1 HIN 225, has been very dry for the 22 years I?ve owned her. So dry I don?t have a bilge pump except the OEM hand pump in the cockpit sole, and I dry out the bilge with a sponge every 6 months or so. Maybe I?m just lucky. But on my boat there are small limber holes (maybe ?? diameter) in the bottom inside seam of the lockers under each settee. And that makes me want to ask if your bilge is dry when you take the boat out for a sail? If I had water in the small bilge of the 25, and sailed at an extreme angle of heel (she is fastest with only 15-18 degrees of heel in my experience), some of the water would migrate from the bilge to the lockers. I find it hard to envision spending enough time with the toerail in the water to get water ingress through the hull to deck joint, and a leak between the deck and toerail would let water in during a rain storm. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 5:05 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Sailnomad Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leak I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be related to heeling or sailing. Ahmet Winthrop, MA C&C25 "Tabasco" On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Hello everyone, I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees. When it rains no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of water in each bin. After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail. What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind side. I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that hold the topsides to the hull. I've read online that you hold the screw steady on top and turn the bolt underneath. I believe there is butyl tape in between the hull and the topsides. I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn. Is my thinking on this correct? Thanks a lot for your help. Mark McMenamyC&C 25 "Icicle"Fort Pierce FL___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! * ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List C&C 26 and 35 parts
C&C 35 parts... http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/5485675266.html (I believe it's this guy http://www.massmarineparts.com/index.aspx ) C&C 26 parts... http://providence.craigslist.org/bpo/5449947232.html No affiliation to either one, I'm just local and saw the ads. Mark '73 C&C 25 Mk 1 Mattapoisett, MA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons
Sounds like my '73 25 Mk1 has a similar setup to your 27 Mk 5. The upper gudgeon casting is a single and the lower gudgeon casting is a double. On the 25 there is a single hinge rod, half-inch diameter, which passes through both gudgeons. I had a similar clunk in my rudder whenever I was on the mooring. I was not able to locate any off-the-shelf replacement gudgeons which were anywhere near as beefy as these originals on my boat. I brought the gudgeons, the hinge rod, and the mating parts from the rudder to a machine shop so they understood the issue. They opened up the already enlarged hole in the gudgeon only slightly, enough to make it round again. Then they turned down the OD of two flanged bronze bushings to achieve the desired fit, and pressed them into the gudgeon. The ID of the bushings was then bored to match the rod size. I don't have any concerns with the strength of it. These pinned joints are strong as long as the clearance between the pin and the journal is minimized. I just noticed that South Shore Yachts does sell the single gudgeons, $90 each. They advise you to replace the double gudgeon with two of the singles.___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
I am rarely a poster but a frequent viewer. I would greatly prefer a forum to the list. I use a forum to indulge one of my other expensive hobbies (see http://forums.pelicanparts.com/1-porsche-technical-forums/). I find it to be a much more user-friendly format. Also, there may be some savings in that you can incorporate the classifieds into one of the forums. But don't take this the wrong way. I greatly appreciate this list and all the work that it takes to run it! - Original Message -From: cnc-list-request@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Fri, 13 Mar 2015 22:57:34 - (UTC)Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 110, Issue 49 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.comor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a ?Forum? similar to ?cruisersforum? or ?sailnet? instead of an email list (like this one). PROS:1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.5. Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and undesirable subscribers blocked.6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit. CONS:1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional enhancements.2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. ()3. Installation ? I?ve done it before and it does take some time. And a bit more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection. Bottom line ? would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? It does not matter to me. Stu * ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
