Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

If all else fails, connect everything back up, loosen bolts holding 
transmission to engine, run engine, put in gear, pray.
Perhaps there will be enough play between the engine and transmission to break 
the seal.
Many years ago I used a similar process to remove stuck cylinder heads.  
I wasn’t trying to remove my transmission when I had a serious vibration.  
Found all of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine were very loose.
Good luck.

Frank
S/V Cool Change
C 38LF, SN: 001
Rose City YC
Portland, Oregon


From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2016 06:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

Just curious if anyone else has had trouble removing the transmission from 
their boat? My LF 38 has a Paragon Vdrive connected to a Yanmar 30hp.  The 
Vdrive came off without issue and I got the bolts completely out of the trans 
that go into the bell housing.  I've been told that it should "come right out", 
but I can even get it to budge.  It was newly installed 3 years ago by the PO 
and has been way inland in dry dock until a month ago.  So I wouldn't think its 
corroded that badly if at all...at least it doesn't look that way.  Maybe they 
used a sealant...which I was told it doesn't need since it's a dry fit.  I've 
tried a mallet and piece of wood to smack the front and rear of 
itnothing...smacked it pretty darn good too.  I like to think I'm a pretty 
strong and young guy...and I ate my biscuits n gravy 2 mornings in a row 
nowstill nothing.  Any tips or tricks that anybody has used with success?

Regards,
Brian

On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 9:31 AM, Brian Davis  wrote:

  Thank you, Doug.  I appreciate the support and advice.  I successfully 
removed the vdrive late last night without to much trouble...while listening to 
the relaxing sounds of the storm that passed through.  Lol.  I also got the 
bolts off the trans that connect to the yanmar, but she's not budging.  It was 
late so I decided to pause for the day and resume after work today again.  It 
is heavy indeed since I still have the old one the PO saved.  I'm canceling my 
gym membership after carrying it to and from my storage unit to the boat. I'm 
thinking the gasket is probably sticking and she needs some encouragement of 
sorts, but I don't want to start hammering on it and have it come out and land 
on the shaft.  So, I'm not sure of the best approach to next steps...  Also, 
I'm not totally sure what you mean by "In the curved adapter is a universal 
joint that is splined to the transmission output shaft."  The Vdrive pulled 
right off after disconnecting the cooling hoses...  

  Thanks again for the input.  She's a beautiful boat and I'm enjoying 
finishing up the restoration that the PO started.

  Regards,

  Brian 

  On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:50 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com  
wrote:

Hi Brian, and welcome. I have the Paragon trans and V-drive in Pegasus. I 
was told by a marine mechanic (that repaired paragons) that you have to hold it 
in reverse. There is no detent. As for removing it yourself. Pull the V-drive 
first, remove it from the transmission. In the curved adapter is a universal 
joint that is splined to the transmission output shaft. Next remove the 
transmission. Carefull it is heavy. Good luck. You have a great boat. 



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 1979

just west of Ballard, WA. 





-- Original message--

From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 

Date: Tue, May 3, 2016 11:53

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Brian Davis;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission



https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzo7ugqxmzlhv9w/paragon.pdf?dl=0

Here is a picture of the break..

On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Dear Members,

  I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading belonging 
to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of months ago.  "Nina" 
was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for nearly 3 years before I 
bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and motored her down to North Palm 
Beach pending the availability of our slip further south.  The halyards are in 
desperate need of replacing, which is why we motored the whole way...plus the 
diesel needed a good running after so long anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, 
but had stabilizer.  Amazingly, she fired right up and purred like a tiger the 
whole way...  She's a beautiful vessel for sure!!

  The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete 
rebuild of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he replaced as 
well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand new from 
1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse gear engaging 
and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully shift her into Reverse 
she does seem 

Re: Stus-List Polars for LF 38

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

John,

Please send me an email direct.

Frank Noragon
C 38LF, SN: 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

-Original Message- 
From: John Sandford via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 20:29 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Sandford 
Subject: Stus-List Polars for LF 38 


Does anyone have Polars for a LF38 that they would like to share?
Thanks
John


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Re: Stus-List paragon v-drive transmission

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

Jason,

I had several “issues” with my transmission.  I have the service manual on it 
and did a complete adjustment according to the manual and it now works 
satisfactorily.
I do not have to hold it in reverse with the shifting lever.  However, if there 
was no friction in the shifting cable I don’t see how it would stay in reverse 
gear.  As mentioned in another email, 
“in reverse you are applying pressure to a band that is around a drum. The 
harder you push the lever in reverse that stronger the engagement.” 

Frank Noragon
S/V  Cool Change
C Landfall 38, SN. 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon 


From: Jason Ward via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2016 09:07
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: jaw...@mymts.net 
Subject: Stus-List paragon v-drive transmission

Hi 

My landfall has the paragon v-drive transmission system.  When I go forward it 
feels like the leaver “clicks” into place, however, when going in reverse it 
feels like it is just friction that is holding it in gear.  The problem I am 
experiencing is that when in reverse and the rpm’s are up the leaver slips out 
of gear.  The only way it stays in reverse is to hold the leaver down.  I have 
tried adjusting the cable tension bolt under the deck to no avail, cable 
becomes to hard to move.  I am wondering if this is just an issue with my boat 
or have others experienced similar problems.  If you have had this happen what 
is the fix.  From what I can find no one really deals with these old 
transmission any more.  Any help that can be offered is appreciated.

Regards,
Jason Ward
Landfall 38
Winnipeg, MB

  This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. 
  www.avast.com  




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Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I can’t tell exactly what part of the bulkhead you are addressing from the 
pictures. 
I do see that there may have been a battery mounted in the vicinity.
I also have some rot in the same bulkhead, caused from battery acid spilled 
from an unsecure battery in the engine compartment.
The damage to your bulkhead looks similar to the damage in my boat.
Good luck,

Frank Noragon
C 38LF, S/N 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 13:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the 
wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft 
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels like 
every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. 

Please see pictures here: 
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0=sharing

As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of 
the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the 
port quarterberth.

One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks 
dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and it 
doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the bulkhead 
is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, where the 
leak is. 

The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom 
(probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread 
out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut?  
There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture in 
there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + starter), 
which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing actually 
caused the damage somehow? 

>From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil 
>kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water 
>leak anymore)

If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass 
in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it 
since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new waterproof 
marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - it's in the 
engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and probably the 
exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft quarterberth storage 
compartments. 

The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. It 
doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other bulkheads. 
The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if that's from 
the flaked off white paint or what. 

The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. 
http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/

At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, 
particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft 
qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting 
from the bottom up rather than top down)?

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA




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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

Hold on Mark,

I have an old Mk I swivel that you can have for the postage, shipping and 
handling.
A lot less than $175 but I am on the West Coast.

Interested?

Frank
S/V Cool Change
C LF 38, S/N: 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon
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Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

Hi,

I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is 
positioned.


Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the mast 
was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.


The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where the 
workers in the yard put it.


Any ideas about how the boat would sail if the mast was positioned all the 
way forward as opposed to all the way aft?  I have seen adjustments for 
moving the mast in it's step on some sports boats.


Frank Noragon
CC 38LF, s/n 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon 



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Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

I had a 16,000 BTU air conditioner in Cool Change (38LF) when I lived in 
Florida.
I could turn the main cabin/V-birth into a meat locker when the outside temp 
was 100 degrees.
Mounted in the same place as mentioned below.
I removed and sold it when I moved to the Great North West and started racing.

Frank Noragon
S/V Cool Change
CC 38LF, s/n: 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 7:55 AM
To: PME ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

I have a Marine Air system on my Landfall 38--it is 12,500 Btu unit and is is 
located in a cabinet beneath a set of drawers on the starboard side just 
forward of the head.  I selected the unit because it was the best fit in the 
space I had available.  I did the installation myself and I have ducting 
running into the v-berth and the aft cabin as well as in the main salon.  I 
have found that if you use plenty of well distribued vents and small fans to 
help move the air around, 12,500 Btu's is plenty.  16,000 Btu would be better 
(particularly in Florida) but the 12,500 Btu unit served me well as a 
liveaboard in Maryland.  The unit has worked flawlessly for about 12 years.  
The biggest problem I have had have been with jellyfish being sucked up in to 
the inlet water filter during the summer. 

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