Re: Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio
Thank you for the comments! I see that my understanding was basically correct. The shaft RPM will be lower than before, and using a larger prop or a prop with greater pitch would counter this difference. I'll update you later if I end up using the transmission with a different gear ratio. I won't get a new propeller right away to get a chance to test the new transmission with the old prop. I think there's a chance the gear ratios are close enough that I'll get the same speeds at still reasonable engine RPMs. What I'm thinking is that lower prop RPM also means that the prop slip will be lower, so even though the prop RPM would be 19% lower, the boat speed is likely to decrease by less than 19%. Thank you, Olivier Chatot C&C 38-3 On Wed, Jan 1, 2020, 18:39 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Different gear ratio = different prop, so factor that expense in unless > you want to be like driving a car stuck in 2nd gear. Also make sure you CAN > fit the correct prop for that ratio. > > Joe > > Coquina > On 1/1/2020 4:43 PM, Olivier Chatot via CnC-List wrote: > > Hi all, > > I have an interesting situation with my transmission. I would like to > share it with you and get some opinions. > > I have a Yanmar 3HM35F engine with a Kanzaki KBW10 transmission. I need to > replace this transmission because it's been malfunctioning. > > Someone near me has a new Kanzaki KM3P for sale. I believe the mounting > flange is the same shape and size, so physically mounting this transmision > would be possible. > > However, this transmission has a different gear ratio than my old > transmission. My old transmission has a gear ratio of 2.14 (2.50 in > reverse) and the new transmission has a gear ratio of 2.61 (3.16 in > reverse). Since the gear ratio of the new transmission is higher, the prop > would turn more slowly. But I believe it would be safe. > > Do you agree that it would be safe to use a transmission with a higher > gear ratio? Or, do you see something important I'm missing? > > Other specs of the two transmissions are identical. Notably, the rotation > direction of the two transmissions are the same. > > Any comment is greatly appreciated. > > Olivier Chatot > C&C 38-3 > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio
Hi all, I have an interesting situation with my transmission. I would like to share it with you and get some opinions. I have a Yanmar 3HM35F engine with a Kanzaki KBW10 transmission. I need to replace this transmission because it's been malfunctioning. Someone near me has a new Kanzaki KM3P for sale. I believe the mounting flange is the same shape and size, so physically mounting this transmision would be possible. However, this transmission has a different gear ratio than my old transmission. My old transmission has a gear ratio of 2.14 (2.50 in reverse) and the new transmission has a gear ratio of 2.61 (3.16 in reverse). Since the gear ratio of the new transmission is higher, the prop would turn more slowly. But I believe it would be safe. Do you agree that it would be safe to use a transmission with a higher gear ratio? Or, do you see something important I'm missing? Other specs of the two transmissions are identical. Notably, the rotation direction of the two transmissions are the same. Any comment is greatly appreciated. Olivier Chatot C&C 38-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Bimini top with solar panels?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8ySjGTPWTwvEPBQF7 This is what I have. It's a lightweight construction made of wood. It's large, so great for the tropics. There are two small semitransparent "skylights" so I can peek at the sails while underway. The solar panels are screwed onto the roof at the back. The section in the middle is strong enough to hold an adult, so I can climb up there to unzip the lazy bag. It works as a raincatcher too. I have to unscrew it to remove it, but I've never actually done it myself. Cheers, Olivier C&C 38-3 On Sat, Sep 21, 2019, 13:11 Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-solbian-semi-flexible-solar-panel/ > > This approach piqued my interest. > > Dave 33-2 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 20, 2019, at 2:53 PM, Bruce Whitmore > wrote: > > Hello all, > > I have re-registered to the list using my Gmail account as I was having > problems getting emails through m SBC/Yahoo account. So, if some of you > were reaching out to me, please rest assured I was not ignoring you, and > feel free to send something through here or to bruce.whitmo...@gmail.com. > > At any rate, I want to replace our Sunbrella bimini with a combination of > 100 watt fixed solar panels and translucent polycarbonate structured sheets > such as those here: www.hardtotop.com. > > One thing though - I want to make sure both the solar panels and the > plastic are relatively easy to remove due to the risk of hurricanes here in > Florida. > > Has anyone done anything like this, and can you provide pictures? > > Thanks! > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" > Madeira Beach, FL > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List hurricane check in
It was alright in the Lesser Antilles. St Lucia and Martinique were hit by winds of around 30 knots and heavy rain, causing some rivers to overflow. We were lucky here. The air was dry and there was sand in the atmosphere in the Atlantic when Dorian was approaching, which prevented it from gaining strength before reaching the Antilles. It was just a tropical storm when it arrived. And it was small. I was in Grenada (120 nm SSW of St Lucia), and it didn't rain. The wind shifted very quickly, but it was weaker than usual (5-10 knots), as it happens when you're south of a passing disturbance, where the disturbance's westerlies are cancelled by the easterly trade winds. -Olivier On Mon, Sep 9, 2019, 08:54 Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote: > Fine up in Cape Breton, sustained winds not much more than 35 - 40 knots > with gusts to 55 overnight. > > A few boats around Baddeck and Little Bras d'Or that were on mooring had > issues, either broke free or sank. No problems at Ben Eoin Yacht Club > where we were tied up. A friend spent the night on his boat, next to ours > and sent a few text updates overnight. > > Our power just blinked a few times but stayed on. A number of trees are > down around town so quite a few power outages in town and even more out in > the country. Loaned my little Honda EU2000i generator to neighbours who are > without power, due to a tree taking out power on their street. > > From news report there seems to be more damage in and around Halifax. > > Ken H. > > *From: *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > *Sent: *Monday, September 9, 2019 9:04 AM > *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc: *Della Barba, Joe > *Subject: *Stus-List hurricane check in > > Everyone OK? > > Not much happened here, 25 knots maybe. > > Joe > > Coquina > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours
Hi Edd, I agree with Marek and Gary about the voltage reading not being a reliable indication of the state of charge. Here's an example from my boat. At noon my battery bank is normally back to full charge and the voltmeter shows 14.01V, cool. A second later the fridge starts and the voltage drops to close to 13V. Best, Olivier On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 13:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Edd, > to add to what Gary said... > > any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is tricky, > because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are, what the > actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over time, > never up) and at what SoC (state of charge) you started the measurements. > > I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how > much of that is left. > > The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6 A > times “several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah > battery bank, even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% SoC > you should be at 95% (if it was 6 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%). > > As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must. > > The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery at > the given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you were > watching the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage meter > would show some number much lower than 12 V (even if the SoC was almost > 100%). > > I am not sure if it helped you much, though > > Marek > 1994 C270 Legato > Ottawa, ON > > *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 13:08 > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Gary Russell > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours > > Hi Edd, > The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of a > lead-acid battery when the battery has been without load (or charge) for > several hours. Otherwise, the voltage is pretty much meaningless. Many > devices measure the state of charge by noting the difference between the > number of amp-hours drawn and the number of amp-hours charged into the > battery. It is a more accurate indication of the state of charge but has > it's limitations as well. Any inaccuracy in measuring the current into or > out of the battery will accumulate over time requiring the device to be > "re-synchronized". > > Gary > S/V Kaylarah > '90 C&C 37+ > East Greenwich, RI, USA > ~~~_/)~~ > > > > On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little >> perplexed about the readings I am seeing. >> >> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor >> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at >> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around >> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for >> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity. But the voltage was >> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%. >> >> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really >> the one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching >> things off. >> >> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces >> or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much >> Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.) >> >> - Confused on City Island >> >> All the best, >> >> Edd >> >> ---—- >> Edd M. Schillay >> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise” >> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B >> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL >> www.StarshipSailing.com >> --- >> 914.774.9767 | Mobile >> --- >> >> >> Sent via iPhone X >> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [C&C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel
Hi Josh,
Thank you. I appreciate your input.
I've had a similar experience with surveyors. In France, they explicitly
say they don't disassemble anything.
In addition, they always write a clause in the survey that exonerates them
from harm caused by a hidden defect ("vice caché" in French). This makes
some sense, since it should be the insurance company taking responsibility
of that.
For keel bolts, what they usually do here is record the state of the bolts
with photos, comment on their appearance, and perhaps recommend a
replacement.
Thank you,
Olivier
On Thu, May 9, 2019, 22:48 Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
> All of the surveyors I've had all say they don't do keel bolts, engine, or
> standing rigging. TBH its pretty disappointing.
>
> Torque keel bolts
> https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc
>
> G-Flex keel repair
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> I second all of the previous advice regarding the "smile".
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:27 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Buying a boat without using a professionally certified surveyor is a
>> classic mistake. We require buyers who insist on proceeding without a
>> survey a document showing that we strongly advise against it and they hold
>> us harmless.
>>
>> Neil Andersen
>> 1982 C&C 32, FoxFire
>> Yacht Broker
>>
>> Neil Andersen
>> 20691 Jamieson Rd
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Olivier
>> Chatot via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2019 8:35 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Olivier Chatot
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [C&C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel
>>
>> Thank you, Dennis, for the thorough explanation.
>>
>> I had come across the "C&C smile" in the list. My first instinct was that
>> it's related. When I see the close-up photos of your 35-1, I can recognize
>> it's the same kind of crack (same general width and depth).
>>
>> However, the cracks have different shapes. The cracks of your 35-1 are
>> only present at the front of the keel, and they are at an angle, actually
>> resembling a smile. The cracks on the 38-3 I visited are perfectly
>> horizontal and extend all along the keel. Does your 35-1 have a deep bilge,
>> like the 38-3 I visited? If it doesn't, that would explain the difference.
>>
>> As for the washers, they are present under the bolt nuts. Visually, they
>> do not seem degraded to me. But I'm not confident that a problem is always
>> visually detectable. One of the items in the album I linked originally is a
>> video. The camera gets quite close to the bolts. Here's the link again:
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RCU4JpoorAXvxe99
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Olivier
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2019, 20:02 Dennis C. via CnC-List
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Probably a simple case of the "C&C smile". This has been discussed ad
>>> nauseum on this list. Many of us on this list have experienced it and
>>> repaired it.
>>>
>>> In its most frequent occurrence, properly torquing the keel bolts and
>>> epoxying a couple layers of glass tape over it will fix it. Here's some
>>> pics of the smile on my 35-1:
>>>
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm
>>>
>>> That smile was fixed by torquing the keel bolts, digging out some
>>> crumbly stuff at the hull/keel interface, filling the dug out areas with
>>> epoxy glass, layering 4 inch biaxial tape over the hull/keel joint, fairing
>>> and painting. 20 years and 14,000 nautical miles of sailing in all
>>> conditions later, it has not recurred.
>>>
>>> Many of us on the list have similar experience with the smile.
>>>
>>> Very infrequently, more action is required. This involves dropping the
>>> keel and resealing the joint. There may be a void or two or a structural
>>> weakness around one or more of the keel bolts. Again, this has only been
>>> observed infrequently. There are folks on this list that have experience
>>> with that.
>>>
>>> Again, the most common occurrence is fixed by properly torquing the
>>> bolts. Here's a link to the torque specs posted on the C&C site:
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
>>>
&
Re: Stus-List [C&C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel
Hi Neil, No problem. I will send you that document if we proceed with the purchase, and if I proceed without a survey. What address should I send it to? Thank you for the heads-up, Olivier On Thu, May 9, 2019, 22:26 Neil Andersen wrote: > Buying a boat without using a professionally certified surveyor is a > classic mistake. We require buyers who insist on proceeding without a > survey a document showing that we strongly advise against it and they hold > us harmless. > > Neil Andersen > 1982 C&C 32, FoxFire > Yacht Broker > > Neil Andersen > 20691 Jamieson Rd > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > > ---------- > *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Olivier > Chatot via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2019 8:35 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Olivier Chatot > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [C&C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel > > Thank you, Dennis, for the thorough explanation. > > I had come across the "C&C smile" in the list. My first instinct was that > it's related. When I see the close-up photos of your 35-1, I can recognize > it's the same kind of crack (same general width and depth). > > However, the cracks have different shapes. The cracks of your 35-1 are > only present at the front of the keel, and they are at an angle, actually > resembling a smile. The cracks on the 38-3 I visited are perfectly > horizontal and extend all along the keel. Does your 35-1 have a deep bilge, > like the 38-3 I visited? If it doesn't, that would explain the difference. > > As for the washers, they are present under the bolt nuts. Visually, they > do not seem degraded to me. But I'm not confident that a problem is always > visually detectable. One of the items in the album I linked originally is a > video. The camera gets quite close to the bolts. Here's the link again: > https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RCU4JpoorAXvxe99 > > Thank you, > Olivier > > > On Thu, May 9, 2019, 20:02 Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Probably a simple case of the "C&C smile". This has been discussed ad >> nauseum on this list. Many of us on this list have experienced it and >> repaired it. >> >> In its most frequent occurrence, properly torquing the keel bolts and >> epoxying a couple layers of glass tape over it will fix it. Here's some >> pics of the smile on my 35-1: >> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm >> >> That smile was fixed by torquing the keel bolts, digging out some crumbly >> stuff at the hull/keel interface, filling the dug out areas with epoxy >> glass, layering 4 inch biaxial tape over the hull/keel joint, fairing and >> painting. 20 years and 14,000 nautical miles of sailing in all conditions >> later, it has not recurred. >> >> Many of us on the list have similar experience with the smile. >> >> Very infrequently, more action is required. This involves dropping the >> keel and resealing the joint. There may be a void or two or a structural >> weakness around one or more of the keel bolts. Again, this has only been >> observed infrequently. There are folks on this list that have experience >> with that. >> >> Again, the most common occurrence is fixed by properly torquing the >> bolts. Here's a link to the torque specs posted on the C&C site: >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm >> >> It was hard to tell in your pics, what is under the keel bolt nuts? >> Another critical piece of fixing the smile is stainless washers or plates >> under the nuts. Many early C&C's had steel plates which degraded allowing >> the keel bolts to become loose. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 6:25 PM Olivier Chatot via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Hi all, >>> >>> I'm considering buying a C&C 38 Mk3, but I've noticed something on the >>> keel that worries me. >>> >>> There is a horizontal crack on both sides of the keel. The cracks >>> stretch almost the full length of the keel. It's present at the same depth >>> on both sides, but it's more noticeable starboard. (see drawing) >>> >>> The cracks are at the same depth as the keel bolts in the bilge (see >>> photo). The keel bolts seem to be all in good condition. >>> >>> The crack is approx 43 cm (17 inch) lower than the base of the belly of >>> the hull, measured from the outside. >>> >>> Drawing, and photo&
Re: Stus-List [C&C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel
Thank you, Dennis, for the thorough explanation. I had come across the "C&C smile" in the list. My first instinct was that it's related. When I see the close-up photos of your 35-1, I can recognize it's the same kind of crack (same general width and depth). However, the cracks have different shapes. The cracks of your 35-1 are only present at the front of the keel, and they are at an angle, actually resembling a smile. The cracks on the 38-3 I visited are perfectly horizontal and extend all along the keel. Does your 35-1 have a deep bilge, like the 38-3 I visited? If it doesn't, that would explain the difference. As for the washers, they are present under the bolt nuts. Visually, they do not seem degraded to me. But I'm not confident that a problem is always visually detectable. One of the items in the album I linked originally is a video. The camera gets quite close to the bolts. Here's the link again: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RCU4JpoorAXvxe99 Thank you, Olivier On Thu, May 9, 2019, 20:02 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Probably a simple case of the "C&C smile". This has been discussed ad > nauseum on this list. Many of us on this list have experienced it and > repaired it. > > In its most frequent occurrence, properly torquing the keel bolts and > epoxying a couple layers of glass tape over it will fix it. Here's some > pics of the smile on my 35-1: > > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm > > That smile was fixed by torquing the keel bolts, digging out some crumbly > stuff at the hull/keel interface, filling the dug out areas with epoxy > glass, layering 4 inch biaxial tape over the hull/keel joint, fairing and > painting. 20 years and 14,000 nautical miles of sailing in all conditions > later, it has not recurred. > > Many of us on the list have similar experience with the smile. > > Very infrequently, more action is required. This involves dropping the > keel and resealing the joint. There may be a void or two or a structural > weakness around one or more of the keel bolts. Again, this has only been > observed infrequently. There are folks on this list that have experience > with that. > > Again, the most common occurrence is fixed by properly torquing the > bolts. Here's a link to the torque specs posted on the C&C site: > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm > > It was hard to tell in your pics, what is under the keel bolt nuts? > Another critical piece of fixing the smile is stainless washers or plates > under the nuts. Many early C&C's had steel plates which degraded allowing > the keel bolts to become loose. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Thu, May 9, 2019 at 6:25 PM Olivier Chatot via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> I'm considering buying a C&C 38 Mk3, but I've noticed something on the >> keel that worries me. >> >> There is a horizontal crack on both sides of the keel. The cracks stretch >> almost the full length of the keel. It's present at the same depth on both >> sides, but it's more noticeable starboard. (see drawing) >> >> The cracks are at the same depth as the keel bolts in the bilge (see >> photo). The keel bolts seem to be all in good condition. >> >> The crack is approx 43 cm (17 inch) lower than the base of the belly of >> the hull, measured from the outside. >> >> Drawing, and photo&video of the bilge here: >> https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RCU4JpoorAXvxe99 >> >> By the way, this C&C 38 has the wing keel option. >> >> Have you seen something like this before? >> Do you think this is superficial, or structural? >> In your opinion, is it a deal-breaker for the purchase? >> >> Any opinion, comment and advise is greatly appreciated. >> >> Olivier >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List [C&C 38 Mk 3] Cracks on the keel
Hi all, I'm considering buying a C&C 38 Mk3, but I've noticed something on the keel that worries me. There is a horizontal crack on both sides of the keel. The cracks stretch almost the full length of the keel. It's present at the same depth on both sides, but it's more noticeable starboard. (see drawing) The cracks are at the same depth as the keel bolts in the bilge (see photo). The keel bolts seem to be all in good condition. The crack is approx 43 cm (17 inch) lower than the base of the belly of the hull, measured from the outside. Drawing, and photo&video of the bilge here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RCU4JpoorAXvxe99 By the way, this C&C 38 has the wing keel option. Have you seen something like this before? Do you think this is superficial, or structural? In your opinion, is it a deal-breaker for the purchase? Any opinion, comment and advise is greatly appreciated. Olivier ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
