Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I used the Edson product and it was very good.  Still looking great after 3
yearsEasy to use.

On Sun, Nov 27, 2022 at 7:02 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.
> The Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of
> stock.  Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there
> better sources?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Peter Kirkwood
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: C&C 33-2 Used Spinnaker wanted

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 9:06 AM Scott Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all! We’ve recently acquired a 33-2 and we’d like to train the family
> to race. We need a 3/4 Oz. Chute. Anyone have a used one to sell that has
> some life left in it?
> -Scott Baker
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 33-II vs 35-II

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I have a heck of a time upwind with my 38-2 beating those 33’s.  Quick
upwind and point higher.  Downwind we can make some ground up but often
 not  enough to win

On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 3:39 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On a rea h a longer waterline boat usually has faster hull speed so would
> pass. If all boats were same design they would have same hull speed and
> woukd not pass on a long reach. On short courses  with short legs even wl
> length makes little difference.
>
> I know the races rob talks about . They usually have legs over a mile long
> so the bigger 35 would certainly be faster downwind and I don't disagree
> that the slightly more modern 33-2 faster upwind
>
> Just my thoughts
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> --
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* November 13, 2021 10:48:15 AM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II
>
> Matthew,
>
> Actually it was not at all impossible...it happened consistently over 5
> raceson the beat, the 33-II would reach the first windward mark before
> the 35-IIthe 33 always pointed higher...not much changed on the reach
> but the 35 gained a few boat lengths...then on the run, 35-II would take
> back all the 33-II gained on the beat and then some.  The 35 crossed the
> finish just ahead of the 33
>
> In my opinion, both boats were well crewed/sailed.
>
> What am I saying that is impossible?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC because they
> set only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and no reaches.  The
> reported rationale is that “no one ever passes anybody on a reach.”  What
> you’re saying is impossible.
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott  
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II
>
>
>
> Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in the
> Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good crew.  The
> course was a beat, reach and runevery race was the same, the 33-ii
> would get to the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, but once on the reach
> and run, loose it all back.   There was nothing we could do to change it
> after 5 races.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

Lots of discussion at our club on this as we started the year with set mark
racing which to me is fun -sometimes- but  there is very little to think
about in terms of strategy and tactics.  The W/L courses bring that aspect
of competition back in and is also a great way to hone boat handling
skills.  Two or 3 times a course with flying sails is a workout for sure.

Peter Kirkwood
Renaissance
1977 38 mk 2

On Fri, Sep 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With regard to the reaching capabilities of the 35-1 and 35-2, when the RC
> set a teaching course, some of my competition said to me before the race
> “they might as well give Touche’ the trophy now”.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Auto pilot???

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

Agree.  Went with the hydraulic ram on my 38 and it is excellent and hasn’t
been overpowered yet in any conditions

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:35 AM Don Marlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 40 had a wheel pilot when I bought it. (ST4000+ and the wheel ring)
> It was only useful for motoring in calm seas.
> The mechanism would get overpowered in anything else and then it would
> just quit trying.
> I viewed it as a safety item and so I have since upgraded to a hydraulic
> ram on the quadrant and it works much better.
>
> I left the electronics alone (ST4000+) so that will need to be upgraded
> when the budget allows.
> For now it is reliable in the sense the mechanics don't get overpowered.
>
> If you are starting from scratch I would find a way to install a below
> decks AP.
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:11 AM Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am looking for suggestions on an auto pilot for our 40-2. I don't think
>> the Raymarine wheel pilot will work good enough. Anybody got suggestions on
>> either s wheel mount or a quadrant mount. What do you use???  Also I would
>> like to be able to connect to my B&G Zues3 down the line.  Thanks for any
>> input.
>> Ted
>> Ten-Ten
>> Punta Gorda,Fl.
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I’ve got a rule 😀.

 No boom boom on the boat

Renaissance
1975 38-2
On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:01 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Note to self – keep old head.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 6, 2021 2:13 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Neil Andersen <
> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead
>
>
>
> FYI.  As a broker, we are finding that composting head make a boat harder
> to sell.
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen
>
> S&J Yachts
>
> 443-321-1969
>
> sts involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal
> to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mainsheet traveler systems C&C 35 Mk2

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

It was more about switching to the Harken windward sheeting car.  The
control lines to position the Lewmar car were in awkward location and often
got accidentally tripped - especially in a breeze-  the new car will make
it easier on my main trimmer   Nothing wrong with the Lewmar system other
than how it fit on the 38.

On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:46 AM Donald Kern via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> from C&C Sailboat Owners Group discussion- Mine is also off right now, a
> gross and fine tune Harkin sheeting system, but interestingly have still
> have the original Mk2 set up with movable pin stops and no traveler block
> and tackle. Use the secondary cockpit winch with a single line to the
> mainsheet car to adjust the boom position and a hard vang for twist in mod
> to heavy air - not efficient set up. Peter, why did you remove the Lewmar
> traveler system, since that is what I was contemplating putting on the boat
> this Spring? Don Kern *Fireball,* C&C35 Mk2 Bristol, RI
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I’ve got two snap shackles on the bow for the genoas and with only one in
use at a time.   we tack the A kite there and do outside jibes.  Have for
reasons unknown, other than expediency on the race course, done inside jibe
which generally results in a trip to the sailmakers for a repair.

For long distance sailing with A kite we set the spinnaker pole at pulpit
height and fly it from there.

On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 10:41 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That won't be a problem...at least it wasn’t for me on my 40 and now on my
> Baltic 47, both of which have the kite tacked just aft of the headstay.
> If you do it right, that outside gybe is way easier than an inside gybe. I
> used to set, douse, and gybe the kite on my 40 singlehanded.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> 
> Newport, RI
> 
>
> USA
> 
>  02840
> 
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 8, 2021, at 10:34, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have been thinking about ordering long sheets for my “reacher" (A sail)
> to be able to do outside jibes.  All the videos I have seen for this
> technique have the spinnaker tack on a sprit or attached forward of the
> headstay.  That seems pretty simple, but I don’t have an attachment point
> there.  My tack can either be attached directly to a padeye on the deck
> behind the forestay or to a strap around the furled headsail and then to
> the padeye.   I think that means that every time I jibe, the tack line will
> wrap around the headstay.  Is that a problem?   I could douse with the sock
> and redeploy after jibe (sounds slow for racing) or add an attachment
> point to the pulpit for a block so I am forward of the headstay.  Am I
> missing something?  How do others without sprits do this?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Non-laminate sails

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

Agree the Nordac fabric performs well. I just like the black cloth!! 😀

On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 6:30 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>   my 135 roller furler is a 3DI (Nordac) and I think it's brilliant.
> Great shape, great fit first time (which I would like to attribute to my
> measuring 5 times).
> It's 3 years old and looks like new.  I'm careful not to abuse my sails
> though I do sail single handed a lot so it sometimes takes a beating.  Good
> rep for longevity; we'll see ...   Would have gotten the 3DI raw
> (black is cool!)  or endurance but I don't get enough allowance
> ..
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33-2
> Lake of the Woods
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 2:39 PM Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I went through 2 North 3DL #1 genoas over 6 years.  One good year, one
>> average year and one lousy year for each sail.  The plastic laminate was a
>> poor product for sure.
>>
>> I bought the North 3DI raw for my #1 & #3 plus mainsail and they are as
>> new after 3 full race seasons.  A bit more money but over the long term
>> they last and perform.  And the black sails look cool too :)
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 3:08 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> A great segue to my next question for the list:
>>>
>>> I had my last laminate sail (probably 3-5 in total after the past 15+
>>> years) fall apart after ~ 4-5 years of club use in NC (North 3Di) and have
>>> decided that my next headsail (155%) will NOT be a laminate. I too have old
>>> Dacron sails (90% and 140%) that have not been used much and look/feel like
>>> new.
>>>
>>> My question is--I'd like some opinions from the listers on the material
>>> and the sail maker. I am thinking of dacron and North (Nordac).
>>>
>>> I have had super life out of my Hood main (high denier dacron with
>>> Vectran), used now for 10 years and still going. However, the headsail they
>>> sold me was never cut correctly, even after I returned it to the loft--so I
>>> won't go there, even if Hood still existed.(I think Quantum took over Hood
>>> after Ted's passing).
>>>
>>> I am an active CLUB racer, occasionally doing CRW but very far from
>>> 'Grand Prix' racing--but I do have a ORC measurement certificate! Most of
>>> my racing is buoy in the NC sounds where the wind rarely gets above 15
>>> knots and the temperature rarely is below 70 degrees when racing.
>>>
>>> At the risk of getting as many suggestions as listers (maybe more!),
>>> what do the listers think about non-laminate sail material, cuts, molded,
>>> etc. Whatever I settle on will be measured by the sailmaker on the boat.
>>>
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> Water Phantom
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>> To: Stus-List 
>>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>>> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 11:13 am
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
>>>
>>> Dacron seems to last forever if it is clean dry and out of the sun.  My
>>> #1 is from around 1990 and looks like new.  I've used it twice.  PO might
>>> have used it occasionally.
>>>
>>> Joel
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:04 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I really only have one furling full hoist sail, so it wasn’t that bad.
>>> My genoas are deck sweepers and need the furling drum removed and the jib
>>> and storm jib are not even close to full hoist.
>>> Speaking of, the jib dates to 1973 and the storm jib to 1979. I don’t
>>> think either one has been out of their bags in this century!
>>> How long do sails last anyway? Maybe they’ll fall apart if used. I don’t
>>> think the storm jib has more than 1,000 miles total use ever, but its old.
>>> The old working jib got used plenty back in the day. The last time I had
>>> that one up was around 1990 in about 50-60 knots running dead downwind.
>>> That was a fun day 😊
>>> Joe
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Friday, January 29, 2021 10:53 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
>>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Furler question
>>>
>>> The perfect solution to the prob

Stus-List Re: Non-laminate sails

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I went through 2 North 3DL #1 genoas over 6 years.  One good year, one
average year and one lousy year for each sail.  The plastic laminate was a
poor product for sure.

I bought the North 3DI raw for my #1 & #3 plus mainsail and they are as new
after 3 full race seasons.  A bit more money but over the long term they
last and perform.  And the black sails look cool too :)

On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 3:08 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A great segue to my next question for the list:
>
> I had my last laminate sail (probably 3-5 in total after the past 15+
> years) fall apart after ~ 4-5 years of club use in NC (North 3Di) and have
> decided that my next headsail (155%) will NOT be a laminate. I too have old
> Dacron sails (90% and 140%) that have not been used much and look/feel like
> new.
>
> My question is--I'd like some opinions from the listers on the material
> and the sail maker. I am thinking of dacron and North (Nordac).
>
> I have had super life out of my Hood main (high denier dacron with
> Vectran), used now for 10 years and still going. However, the headsail they
> sold me was never cut correctly, even after I returned it to the loft--so I
> won't go there, even if Hood still existed.(I think Quantum took over Hood
> after Ted's passing).
>
> I am an active CLUB racer, occasionally doing CRW but very far from 'Grand
> Prix' racing--but I do have a ORC measurement certificate! Most of my
> racing is buoy in the NC sounds where the wind rarely gets above 15 knots
> and the temperature rarely is below 70 degrees when racing.
>
> At the risk of getting as many suggestions as listers (maybe more!), what
> do the listers think about non-laminate sail material, cuts, molded, etc.
> Whatever I settle on will be measured by the sailmaker on the boat.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 11:13 am
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
>
> Dacron seems to last forever if it is clean dry and out of the sun.  My #1
> is from around 1990 and looks like new.  I've used it twice.  PO might have
> used it occasionally.
>
> Joel
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:04 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I really only have one furling full hoist sail, so it wasn’t that bad. My
> genoas are deck sweepers and need the furling drum removed and the jib and
> storm jib are not even close to full hoist.
> Speaking of, the jib dates to 1973 and the storm jib to 1979. I don’t
> think either one has been out of their bags in this century!
> How long do sails last anyway? Maybe they’ll fall apart if used. I don’t
> think the storm jib has more than 1,000 miles total use ever, but its old.
> The old working jib got used plenty back in the day. The last time I had
> that one up was around 1990 in about 50-60 knots running dead downwind.
> That was a fun day 😊
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, January 29, 2021 10:53 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Furler question
>
> The perfect solution to the problem Joe!
>
> Depending on the difference between 'too high and too low', finding the
> sweet spot could be a chore and would likely require different shackle
> lengths at the deck level for different sails.
>
> A proper restrainer allows more 'slop' in the effective luff length
> without chewing up the halyard/sheave and prevents the wrapping problem.
> Perhaps not the perfect solution but a good one that works--keeping in mind
> the adage to '...not let the perfect be the enemy of the good..!'
>
> YMMV
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 8:35 am
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
> What I discovered was the overall position of the halyard and top swivel
> was critical. Assuming you have a full hoist sail and no retainer, you need
> to adjust the shackle length at deck level to get the halyard as far up as
> you can without running the nicropress into the sheave. Too high and it
> chews up the halyard and sheave and/or you can’t get correct tension, too
> low and it wraps.
> Joe
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks
> - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

We set the pole at pulpit height with the downhaul cleated and it is
essentially a sprit.  On a short leg in course racing we just use a 2’ tack
line as pole setup takes a bit of time.

With the pole that low the guy runs inside the lifelines

Peter Kirkwood
38 mk2

On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:10 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob
>
> I’ve never used the pole like that.  I was thinking you would leave it in
> place like a sprit.
>
> On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:05 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> you're missing the part with the spinnaker pole. It also has to be moved
>> to gybed position.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 01/28/2021 7:53 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Do an outside gybe. Trim main, ease spin sheet a lot and let it float
>> forward then bring it over and gybe the main
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> No sock.
>>
>> The board really only wanted to use A3 on races of 25nm or more, where
>> there would be minimal gybing and long legs. I got them to change it to any
>> race so that when we're short-handed we're still able to be competitive
>> against full spinnakers
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I would just go as far as I could, pull the sissy sock down over it and
>> just broad reach into the leeward mark. If there was too much distance, I
>> would then re-set on the other side and pull the sock back up,  THAT is why
>> I really want a top-down furler!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Bob Mann via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 28, 2021 3:57 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List
>> *Cc:* Bob Mann
>> *Subject:* Stus-List asail flown from spinnaker pole
>>
>>
>>
>> The Detroit area OD fleet of 35 mk I's is allowing asails (A3
>> specifically) this year for the first time ever, but they must be flown
>> from the tack or spinnaker pole.  Does anyone know of any videos showing
>> asails flown from a spinnaker pole?  I'd especially like to see one being
>> gybed.  I've flown an A2 from my tack before, and gybed it, so that's not
>> an issue.  I think I have an idea of how it's done using a tack line and
>> spinnaker pole, but I'd like to "see" it done as well.  FWIW we do dip-pole
>> gybes.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Mann
>>
>> Mystic
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
>> Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
>> Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

Just FYI. The spar tite is installed with the mast in.

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 12:07 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for the quick replies. I have no leak issues around the deck
> opening, observed after some heavy rain this winter. The wedges also appear
> to be in good shape—just loose. Perhaps I’m hearing from above they may be
> too small or the wrong shape? Charles, I’ll ping you for what to look for
> at HF for future ref. Not wanting to disturb the boot, which appears in
> good shape, I’m going to try to pull/jam the wedges back into place from
> below. If not, I may have to remove the boot:/ Useful to know that Spartite
> will release with the right method—I may go with the stuff when I pull the
> mast at some point.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I have the spar tite and it is a tight fit. They instruct you to use
Vaseline as a release agent and no issues have been encountered with taking
the mast out

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 1:23 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The damned things are my nemesis.  My 30 MK I came with wooden wedges
> which were always falling out.  I bought a dozen rubber NGA-19 from Rig
> Rite (https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.php) and
> they’re better but they still fall out.  Others on the list use spar-tite,
> a semi-permanent “plug” you pour between mast and partners.  I’ll probably
> go to it next.  Apparently you can still pull the mast after pouring the
> plug but it’s a tight fit.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:09 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Risking another topic in tandem with my windlass question. Don’t think
> they’re easily confused, but we can try;)
>
> When we purchased Sirius in October, the wood wedges at the deck mast hole
> were all low and fairly tight. Now, after a few sails and seasonal changes
> (not sure that matters), they have all worked upward and a few are loose.
> Is it important to keep these tightly wedged, and if so, how do I keep them
> from drifting upward?
>
> Without removing the boot, I’d like to try looping some light spectra
> around the top of the loose wedge, then a block at the bottom of the loop
> to pound it down. Feedback welcome.
>
> Found this interesting article on the merits of wood wedging:
>
>
> https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/2/29/wedging-the-mast-deck-partner
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu