Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"
Hi All, The "Y" on my where the cooling water connects to the exhaust rusted out and I am rebuilding it. It was made out of 1 1/4 " steel water pipe. A 3/8 " piece was welded onto 6" of straight pipe to make a "Y". The 3/8" piece is where the cooling water would travel into the 1 1/4" exhaust. My question is: could this simply be a "t" shaped piece made out of 1 1/4 inch t with a reducer to fit the 3/8" connector for the cooling water. Rather than weld up a "y". Steve ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Bye bye pretty boat
I really wanted a corvette a couple years ago when I was looking for a larger boat. It would have been a great step up from my redline 25 swing keel. I really wanted the shallow keel the Corvette has. It would have cost to much to buy one and ship it in to fix up; there did not seem to be any nearby, lots in Ontario and the US. In stead joined solid keel club and bought the C&C30 at our local club and now wait for tide changes. Part of me still wants one and If my wife would let me (she loves our 30)..I would trade my 30 for a good corvette 31. cheers Steve ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling
Hi, The bag idea for filling holes sounds good and sure I would try. I use a squeeze bottle that you can buy at the dollar store, it is about 500ml similar to a condiment bottle for ketchup ect. However this has the volumes marked out which helps out in the measuring and mixing all in the same container, not so messy. Measure out the required amounts , mix and squeeze. I have been very surprised how much pressure you can squeeze into something. Great for metering out small amounts, like 30-50ml. When I do the larger amounts I have to work fast!!! small amounts better for me. Steve T ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979 (Steven Tattrie)
Hi All, thank for everyone that provided feedback on genoa track on a C&C30 mk1. Micheal Brown pointed out an interesting sailing magazine article http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/ My take away here is I should be sheeting as close as 7 degrees up to 10 degrees depending on wind. I visited my boat this weekend and based on my trigonometry math skills I would have not issue sheeting too close . It would be difficult to meet the seven degrees in light wind. With that in mind my concern is shroud location. Does any one with tracks have interference with the shrouds? I am thinking, when the wind pick up you want to flatten the foot, visually looks like the shroud would restrict sail shape. any comments? Steve ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C&C 30 MK1 1979
Hi everyone, I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C&C30 MK1 1979. I have a 110 and 150 head sail. Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks on a 30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different sails? and where on the deck would they be installed? would the 110 be sheeted inside the shrouds? when they are best used? I have been searching photos on the internet and found at least half a dozen different configurations. So I don't think will be an easy decision on where to locate. you comments will be appreciated Steve ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List putting teek hand rails back together - tips
Hello all, I removed teak hand rails from my C&C30 MK1 1979 last fall. There is an inside and outside rail that are both fastened together by the same bolt and nut (inside nut). Both ends are recessed into the rail with teak plug to fill the hole. I haven't tried to install them back yet however, I am wondering how I can hold the nut on the inside so that it does not turn keeping in mind that it is recessed into the wood and a socket/ wrench will not hold it (fit in the hole). Any tips on this process!! Steve ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List AP - old vs new
Hi Barry, I have a C&C 30MK1 - would use it in most conditions and mostly solo sailing where i missed not having the AP the most. Most of my sailing are few hour trips and racing around the bay; not allowed to use it for racing. it is real nice to set when putting sails up, cruising and relaxing, make coffee or whatever. The winds where I sail tend to be gusty and shifty. I don't plan on interfacing to anything else. Perhaps I should think that way i do have a standard horizon cp300i chartplotter and older navman 3100 depth and speed instruments. wind instrument is shot and would eventually replace but for now i don't miss it. the control head has always been missing since I purchased the boat last year I can only assume the other components work. A used 4000+ control head seem to be about $750cnd and the ev1000 will be about $2000 cnd with rebate. I don't like to spend more than I have too but I like things to work as well, tough decision - leaning towards the new one. I really don't think used electronics should be worth that much but they seem to be hard to find and expensive. thanks for your comments Cheers - Forwarded message -- From: Barry Lenoble To: Cc: Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 14:05:02 -0500 Subject: Stus-List AP - old vs new Hi Steve, A few questions for you: -What do you use the AP for? Is it just used when motoring, or when putting the sails up/down? Do you use it with the sails up in gusty conditions or when racing (if allowed by the rules)? -What other electronics do you have and are they currently interfaced to the AP? Are you interested in having other components interfaced so you can do things like steer to a wind angle or to a waypoint? -What is the condition of the rest of your AP components? In 2014 I installed the EV100 wheel pilot on my C&C 110. It is interfaced to my Raymarine speed and wind, and to my plotter as well. I use the AP all the time and I am happy with the performance. If the wind and seas are behind me the AP does a poor job of steering - the boat slews around and the pilot gets very active trying to correct. If it's blowing over 20 I have to be very careful with sail trim of the AP can get overpowered and the driver motor will stall. The EV100 is really too small for my boat, but the required below deck pilot exceeded my budget. I do like the steer to wind function as well as the navigate to a waypoint. Take care, Barry ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List used vs new autopilot
I have been contemplating on buying a new ev100 outopilot or purchase a used control head for my old st4000+. I would save about $1000 dollars. so my question is is it worth the money to invest in new? will the ev100 technology perform better? ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay
The redwings make good club racers, I race against 2 on a regular basis and have crewed on one a couple years for Wednesday races. lots of fun to sail on. I would say they sail to their PHRF rating (maybe better at times) and as Mike H says are a bitch to beat! If you could see our club champion trophy you would understand. In addition to their classic design, I like the large cockpit and most of all like the long tiller handle that allows you to duck under the dodger in foul weather. cheers steve C&C 30 mk1 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List C&C30 mk1 1979 interior finish
I am finishing the teak handrails outside and interior - anyone have any idea on what was used to finish the interior handrails from factory. I would like to try to match the original look. looks like a stain or satin finish of some sort. steve ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 PHRF racing
Regarding in board tracks, don't have any. On my wish list. How much weather helm is normal; example heading into the wind 15K with 150% and main back winding some - I have about 1/4 turn on the wheel and perhaps more on the puffs. Steve C&C 30 mk1 BHYC Full Tilt ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 PHRF racing
This is great info, I am new to this list and wasn't sure how it worked. I think I figured it out. I couldn't figure out how to search the archive. I sail out of Barrachois, Nova Scotia. BHYC club. ya it is getting pretty cool to have soo many C&C though I forgot about the Mirage, lol. I use to have a redline 25 that was easy to sail and in my opinion got to be one of the best boats built. got some material to read, thanks again Randy On Fri, Jul 15, 2016 at 7:57 PM, RANDY wrote: > It's awesome that you have a half-dozen 30-1s racing in your club. You > could have your own little one-design fleet :) You must be somewhere on > the Great Lakes I'd guess. And your competition may be reading this email > thread :) > > Regarding tuning the rig, I just followed the owner's manual. Centered > masthead side-to-side measuring with main halyard to rail, tightened upper > shrouds until turnbuckles were "hard to turn", tightened lowers to have an > inch of play. Set 8" rake with backstay adjuster (my backstay doesn't have > a turnbuckle) and with forestay turnbuckle "hard to turn" i.e. very little > headsail sag. > > Here's what I've found so far racing my new-to-me 30-1 in my club's > just-ended spring series (ten Wednesday nights). I raced in a > non-spinnaker PRHF division sailing triangle courses. My main > competition is a couple of Catalina 27s with folding props, rating 221, and > much more experienced skippers and crews. I have a fixed prop and 198 > rating and crew of total newbies. > > 1. Despite propeller differences, I can meet or beat their boat speed on > every point of sail under the right conditions: a) the wind has to be up > enough, say Beaufort 4, to overcome their displacement advantage of about a > ton; and b) my sails have to be optimally trimmed. The 30-1 has better > SA/D and D/L ratios than the Catalina 27, but it takes some wind to see > those advantages, and it takes good sail trim against experienced > competition. > > 2. They can out-point me by maybe five degrees. I flew my 155% genoa all > series, because my rating doesn't account for my 170, and I never had a > windy enough night to drop back to the 135. I'll start pinching if I get > closer than say 40 degrees to the wind with the 155. > > 3. I'm getting beat on boat handling and tactics. Our maneuvers aren't > sharp enough yet, and I need to have consistently good starts and stay in > clean air more, and these skippers know the lake's wind patterns better > than I do. > > 4. My 30-1 is stiff as hell. One night after a race the wind piped up to > Beaufort 6 and I hit 7.6 knots on beam/close reach, according to GPS, under > full main and 155, and I *still* didn't get a rail in the water (very close > though, within an inch or another degree of heel). Then my genoa tore :) > She did want to round up under that much wind and sail, and I'd > say weather helm requires attention and tuning by Beaufort 5. > > I decided to stay in the non-spinnaker fleet for the summer series. Just > flew the spinnaker for the first time after the race this past Wednesday > night, and my crew needs more practice with it. We had a pre-race crisis > this week - main halyard jammed at masthead sheave - I was at the masthead > in a bosun's chair unjamming it during my start sequence :) We managed to > get the sails up just in time, but we were discombobulated and this will be > our throw-out race for the summer series :) > > Cheers, > Randy > > -- > *From: *"Steven Tattrie via CnC-List" > *To: *"cnc-list" > *Cc: *"Steven Tattrie" > *Sent: *Friday, July 15, 2016 7:13:00 AM > *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 PHRF racing > > Hi, > > I have been PHRF racing at our local club, this is my first year with a > C&C 30 MK1 (1979) is there a thread or anyone have comments on getting the > best out of the boat, eg tight rigging, rake, sail selection, strength or > weaknesses specific to the 30 to stay competitive? I have been sailing for > a couple decades so not looking for general sailing tips. I want to know > what is best for the 30MK1 or hear from your experience what work best. > > I am pointing well, though wounder if I should pinch more or be more off > the wind for speed? I seemed to be passed on reaching and running. > > FYI - we have about half a dozen 30 MK1 racing a couple redwings, a 32 and > 35 MK1 racing. All C&C. > > Steve > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 PHRF racing
Hi, I have been PHRF racing at our local club, this is my first year with a C&C 30 MK1 (1979) is there a thread or anyone have comments on getting the best out of the boat, eg tight rigging, rake, sail selection, strength or weaknesses specific to the 30 to stay competitive? I have been sailing for a couple decades so not looking for general sailing tips. I want to know what is best for the 30MK1 or hear from your experience what work best. I am pointing well, though wounder if I should pinch more or be more off the wind for speed? I seemed to be passed on reaching and running. FYI - we have about half a dozen 30 MK1 racing a couple redwings, a 32 and 35 MK1 racing. All C&C. Steve ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
