Stus-List Doyle Mainsail Cover for salel

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

For Sale Doyle mainsail cover (navy blue) designed to accommodate mainsails 
that have slides attached to the mast (Tides marine track, sail slides, etc.). 
Zippers in the front of the mast and plastic buckles under the boom. Excellent 
condition. New $500 plus taxes. $195 Length 13'6" height at the front of the 
mast 52".  Should fit a main that has a boom length of 12 – 12.5’

 

Pictures available on request.  strig...@eastlink.ca 
  

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing cabin windows

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Guys I found what I needed

 

From: wolf...@erie.net  
Sent: February-09-23 9:42 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: RE: Stus-List Replacing cabin windows

 

I think Stu has that in the archives on the C&C website.  How one goes about
finding it is a different matter.  If you can't find it in a day or two, ask
again and I'll dig it up.  I did the windows on my 42 Custom using the
described method, and it worked great. 

 

From: StrightR--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: strig...@eastlink.ca <mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing cabin windows

 

A couple of years ago there was an excellent thread on replacing cabin
windows using acrylic, 3M ultra high bond tape and black silicone sealant.
Anyone happen to have a copy of that?

 

Thanks

Rod 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Replacing cabin windows

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

A couple of years ago there was an excellent thread on replacing cabin
windows using acrylic, 3M ultra high bond tape and black silicone sealant.
Anyone happen to have a copy of that?

 

Thanks

Rod 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Water back flowing through the head

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Rob may do that and then cannibalized the old one for parts

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
Sent: August-30-22 10:02 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: strig...@eastlink.ca; Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Water back flowing through the head

 

Rod
Had the same issue a few years back with my Jabsco marine toilet...went to the 
Binnacle to get kit to repairthey talked me into a new pump 
instead...almost the same price and a lot less work from taking the old one 
apart, installing new parts and putting back together.
New pump very easy to install.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S 

On 2022-08-30 7:36 a.m., StrightR--- via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone experienced water back flowing through the head despite dry bowl 
left in the closed position?  Raritan head. Assume it could be a defective 
Joker valve or flapper valve.  Anyone had a similar problem and if so what was 
the cure.

 

Thanks

Rod

 

Stus-List Water back flowing through the head

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

Has anyone experienced water back flowing through the head despite dry bowl
left in the closed position?  Raritan head. Assume it could be a defective
Joker valve or flapper valve.  Anyone had a similar problem and if so what
was the cure.

 

Thanks

Rod

Stus-List FW: Asym Rigging and Trim

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

 

Hi Randy comments below:

 

1. Leading the tack line - I'm repurposing the foredeck padeye and block,
side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to
run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise.
My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I've repurposed a
little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for a
symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am I
wrong?  

 

Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but
will work.  Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck.
We keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping
hazard

 

2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the
symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use
snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.

 

If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely
need to be further aft than the spin sheets.  Probably start out in the same
place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be.  We use tweakers
depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to
trim the sail and adjust the leech.

 

3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his
asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the
trimmer can see the whole sail.

 

High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet.

 

4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it's
tensioned so that the aysm's tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut,
but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?

 

You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will
depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing.  Generally downwind
if the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if
it rotates to windward that is golden.  Ours normally eased a few feet
downwind. Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really
light.

 

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share.

 

Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides,
because of the etymology of my boat's name, and because of her color scheme
(red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

SV Grenadine

C&C 30 MK I #79

Ken Caryl, CO

 

Rod Stright

C&C 99 Halifax

Stus-List Asym Rigging and Trim

[StrightR--- via CnC-List]

Hi Randy comments below:

 

1. Leading the tack line - I'm repurposing the foredeck padeye and block,
side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to
run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise.
My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I've repurposed a
little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for a
symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am I
wrong?  

 

Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but
will work.  Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck.
We keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping
hazard

 

2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the
symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use
snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.

 

If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely
need to be further aft than the spin sheets.  Probably start out in the same
place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be.  We use tweakers
depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to
trim the sail and adjust the leech.

 

3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his
asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the
trimmer can see the whole sail.

 

High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet.

 

4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it's
tensioned so that the aysm's tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut,
but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?

 

You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will
depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing.  Generally downwind
if the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if
it rotates to windward that is golden.  Ours normally eased a few feet
downwind. Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really
light.

 

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share.

 

Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides,
because of the etymology of my boat's name, and because of her color scheme
(red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

SV Grenadine

C&C 30 MK I #79

Ken Caryl, CO

 

Rod Stright

C&C 99 Halifax