Stus-List Re: C&C Racing Shirt - Now just C&C shirts
I did my shirts with CustomInk.com Very similar to the link that Dennis provided. James Taylor C&C 38 1976 Delaney On Thu, Jan 4, 2024 at 8:03 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Very nice. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Thu, Jan 4, 2024 at 6:39 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I stay away from just slapping the C&C logo on anything. I’m trying to >> reproduce actual C&C promotional items >> >> Here is the Rugby shirts I plan to reproduce >> >> Shop >> <https://www.ghcarchives.com/the-chandlery?store-page=C%26C-Rugby-Shirt-p446047026> >> ghcarchives.com >> <https://www.ghcarchives.com/the-chandlery?store-page=C%26C-Rugby-Shirt-p446047026> >> [image: apple-touch-icon.png] >> <https://www.ghcarchives.com/the-chandlery?store-page=C%26C-Rugby-Shirt-p446047026> >> <https://www.ghcarchives.com/the-chandlery?store-page=C%26C-Rugby-Shirt-p446047026> >> >> JohnKelly Cuthbertson >> >> www.ghcarchives.com >> www.candcyachts.com >> Motion Designs Limited >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: AC/DC Distribution panel upgrade
I installed a shore power system on my boat 10 years ago Used a Blue Seas panel and took a lot of advice from Calder's and Marine how to. I didn't take any pics of the project, but it was one of the easier things that I have done... If my memory serves me correctly, I used separate bus bars for the ground and the neutral (maybe the panel had bus bars for one or both) and I installed a galvanic isolator at the shore power plug. James 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Anyone need an Atomic 4?
Joe, Where is the engine? James Taylor Delaney C&C 38 Oriental, NC On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 11:27 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > This one sounds decent and the price is realistic too. > > Joe Della Barba > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > Kent Island MD USA > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I 170%
Bill, The 39 that my family had came with a modified deep keel (7' 1") and a shortened boom (12' if I remember correctly). She went up-wind like a witch! But the round-ups were often spectacular.... James Taylor Oriental, NC 1976 38 On Thu, Nov 3, 2022 at 4:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > My 1973 39 came with a 13 foot boom, but the original drawings were for a > 15' boom, which actually looked more balanced. When I replaced the boom, I > made it 14', with a large roach. Cost me 6 Seconds, and was probably worth > 12! > > Bill Coleman > Entrada, Erie PA > > On Thu, Nov 3, 2022 at 4:32 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I thought the shorter boom was due to designers placing the mast further >> back to get a large J measurement so 150% genoas were bigger. More sail >> area overall. >> >> Chuck S >> >> On 11/03/2022 2:16 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> I believe that large mainsails were penalized under IOR at that time so >> huge foretriangles became popular and also very large overlapping genoas. >> >> >> >> If I am not mistaken IMS and other rules that followed IOR were more >> based on performance than design and allowed larger main sails to come back >> and resulted in smaller more easily managed headsails >> >> >> >> My conspiracy theory is that the deck sweeping 170% genoas were heavily >> influenced by insurance companies and boat yards that wanted more >> collisions and more work! 😊 >> >> >> >> Mike >> >> Persistence >> >> HAlifax >> >> >> >> *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List >> *Sent:* November 3, 2022 3:04 PM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I 170% >> >> >> That 170 seemed to be popular sport back in the day. We had one for our >> 30-1 when I bought it and I noted that two other 30s at the lake had them >> also. >> >> PHRF killed that sail; the additional penalty was deemed too much. Crew >> didn't mind tossing them away. By the time we finally got it trimmed in, >> it was time to tack again. >> >> Ron >> >> Wild Cheri >> >> C&C 30-1 >> >> STL >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thursday, November 3, 2022, 11:22:32 AM CDT, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> Jeff >> >> >> >> That would likely sheet to the dinghy towed behind your 34 >> >> >> >> There was a story behind the use of 170 genoas back in the day but I >> forget what it was >> >> >> >> Mike Hoyt >> >> Persistence >> >> >> >>
Stus-List Re: Batteries again
Another question that haven't seen in this discussion. What battery charger do you need for this type of battery? My charger has setting for flooded, sealed and AGM, and I haven't seen many chargers that mention LiFePO4settings. On Fri, May 27, 2022 at 7:19 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Quick battery facts: > > > > An ideal battery is like a water tank. It holds X amount, can be filled as > fast as you want or as slow as you want, and likewise for emptying the > water. No matter what, you get 10 gallons out of a 10 gallon tank. > > How all types of lead-acid batteries fail in being perfect: > >1. Peukert Effect – A 200 amp hour battery might last 250 hours if >only drawing one amp and maybe one hour at 100 amps. >2. Charge efficiency – Not all the electricity that goes in gets >stored, some amount is converted to heat, off gassing, etc. >3. Cycle life – A 200 amp hour battery eventually declines to a lot >less than 200 and then is dead. Battery manufacturers supply graphs of >depth-of-discharge vs. lifespan of the battery. A battery discharged to 80% >and recharged carefully to 100% might last well over a thousand cycles. One >discharged to 0% and recharged might last 10 or 20 cycles or maybe 1 cycle >if it was a starting battery. Most cruisers figure on 50% >depth-of-discharge as the limit for a good lifespan. > > > > What this means is a 200ah lead battery is good for 100ah if you want it > to last AND have a way to get it all the way back to 100% easily. Many > people figure on cycling between 50% and 90% or so. The fuller a lead > battery gets, the slower it charges. > > > > In contrast, a lithium battery is a lot closer to the ideal. The charge > efficiency is high, the Peukert Effect doesn’t really exist for them, you > can charge them fast if needed, and their lifespan is good to 80% > discharge. A 200ah lithium battery is good for 160ah useable capacity, not > the less than 100 that is the practical useable capacity of lead battery of > the same nominal rating. > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > > > > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, May 27, 2022 4:27 PM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* Bill Coleman > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Batteries again > > > > So Dave, would the SOK Battery 206Ah 12v LiFePO4 Battery Solar Battery be > an equivalent swap-out for a Lifeline GPL-8DA 12 V 255 AH Battery? > > This is a little confusing (and intimidating) for the non-initiated . . > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > > > > *From:* Dreuge via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > ] > *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:24 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Dreuge > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Batteries again > > > > Dave, > > > > As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any > sense to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM) for a house > bank. For lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current > load due to the Peukert Effect. Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated > at C/20. For a 100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A. This is > often called the 20H rate, i.e. 5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load > is 20A, then the same 100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH > (or 10AH at 100A). And worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid > battery’s capacity as going below 50% substantially degrades the battery > lifetime. This means that a 100AH lead acid battery has an effective 50AH > @ 5A (or 30AH @ 20A). > > > > Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the > Amazon prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an > effective 100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads. > > > > Now, the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few > years and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better. A 100AH > LiFePO4 battery is typically rated at 1C. That is they can deliver 100AH > at 100A for 1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H). They can also charge at amps up > to 100A which is impossible for a lead acid battery. And LiFePO4 > batteries live 5 times longer. That is, one would expect to replace 5 > sets of lead acid batteries before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes, > LiFePO4 batteries are more complex as they require a battery management > system (i.e. BMS), but there are companies which provide 12V drop in > replacements with the BMS built internal to the battery. Top companies > like Battle Born sell a 100AH LiFePO4 for $874 and provide a 10yr warranty. > Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 for $765. A company, CurrentConnected.com, > sells > a SOK 100AH LiFePO4 battery for $569 and it has a 10 yr warranty! > YouTuber Will Prowse rates the SOK as the best value LiFePO4 12V drop in > replacement (see https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html). > There are a plethora of cheaper 10
Stus-List Re: Sherwood water pump replacement
Moyer Marine has an improved version of the Oberdorfer that is even better! James Taylor Delaney 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 6:50 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > ABSOLUTELY worth it!! The Oberdorfer pump is not only MUCH easier to > service, it's less expensive than the Sherwood to replace. Very happy I > switched! > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 5:34 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> My Universal M4-30 has a Sherwood water pump that I hate every time I >> have to touch it (mercifully infrequent). For some reason, they designed >> it with the screws coming in from the back, which are a PITA to get to. I >> remember reading that there was an Oberdorfer pump that could replace the >> Sherwood that has a standard front panel opening. Has anyone done this? >> Was it worthwhile? Thanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Line question
Ron, I generally try to use the smallest line possible on my boat. A line must be big enough to handle the load and small enough to fit with the blocks, cleats and winches. Personally, I find 1/4" line to be too small to be comfortable on my hands. On a traveller and downhaul, a little stretch will not be a problem, so I wouldn't spend extra money for sta-set. On a vang or halyard, I would select a line with little stretch. For a roller furling jib halyard, I like New England VPC because it has a Vectran core that has very little "creep", which means a line that stays under tension will not get longer over time. For sheets I prioritize the "hand" or feel of the line and I really like "trophy braid" because it is very soft. When I was hard core racing, My priorities were different and I used a lot of smaller, lower stretch (and expensive) lines. James Delaney C&C 38-2 Oriental, NC On Sat, Apr 24, 2021 at 5:09 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Mine are all 3/8 StaSet, I think. Some day I'll change the traveler sheet > to 9.5 mm (3/8") New England Salsa. > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Sat, Apr 24, 2021 at 2:25 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> This question shows a terrible lack of knowledge but here goes: To >> replace some running rigging like the downhaul, topping lift and traveler >> line, is a double braid like Sta-Set the normal product to use? >> I no longer race my own boat, so it's just what's needed for playing >> around. >> If I measured correctly, the traveler would be quarter inch and the >> downhaul would be 3/8in. >> Ron >> Wild Cheri >> C&C 30-1 >> STL >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Even More Atomic 4 Troubles
One cause of rough running that I haven't seen mentioned is a sticking exhaust valve. This is very common on A4s and easy to address by fogging the engine with Marvel Mystery Oil. With the engine running, pour a small amount of MMO into the air intake. Repeat a few times and it will usually free up the valves. James Taylor S/V Delaney C&C 38 (with A4) Oriental, NC On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 4:57 PM Lee Goss via CnC-List wrote: > Just wanted to send a quick note to say thank you for all the wonderful > advice in this thread. > > Looks like i've got a decent project to keep me going until the habors > open on May 1st! > > Thanks again, > Lee > > C&C 29 MK.1 > Lake Michigan > > On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 at 11:24, Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Have stayed out of this A4 thread for a variety of reasons, however based >> on plenty of work over many years with carbureted engines I second Bruce's >> emphasis on making sure that the fuel supply and carb are verified as a >> priority, before proceeding to other more complex causes. (steps 1-4) In >> my own experience this is where the trouble usually lies in engines that >> are not in regular use. Will also second the carb overhaul >> recommendation.. Carb rebuild kids are usually cheap, the job is pretty >> straightforward, and gaining confidence in and and familiarity with the >> fuel system is well worthwhile. >> >> Dave 33-2 >> >> On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 at 08:44, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Hi Lee, having had an Atomic 4 for 15 years, I can say the 2nd video >>> sounds largely normal once you got it starte. So, it seems yo tell me >>> compression is OK. The first one sounds a little rough, like a fuel >>> issue. That could happen if the engine was run all the way out of fuel ans >>> you had limited filtration of the gas. At any rate, out of an abundance of >>> caution, I would do the following: >>> >>> 1. Get a compression gauge and check for even readings across all >>> cylinders. >>> 2. Clean the fuel strainer bowl. >>> 3. Overhaul/clean the carb. You probably won't even need gaskets, and >>> they're simple to do. Just be sure that you take photos as you take it >>> apart and count the number of turns as you remove the adjustable jet(s). >>> Tighten the counting the turns, and when you put them back in, go to tight >>> and back out the same number of turns. >>> 4. If you don’t have one, put in a fuel filter/water separator. It >>> doesn't need to be a racor, one with a spin on filter (about $25) is fine. >>> 5. Convert to electronic ignition. Moyer has a kit, but the same model >>> is available elsewhere. Replace the cap and rotor while you're in there, >>> as well as the plugs, which are Champion RJ12Cs. The cap, rotor and plugs >>> are available at auto parts stores once you look up the Delco numbers. >>> 6. Replace the raw water impeller. If the engine sounds weird to you, >>> it may be the engine isn't pumping water through it like it used to. That >>> is a wear item and should be replaced every 2 years anyway. >>> 7. Add StaBil and SeaFoam to your fuel. A dose of Marvel Mystery oil >>> doesn't hurt either. >>> 8. Carry a spare coil. Once you go to electronic ignition, you'll >>> probably never need it, but it is a potential point of failure. >>> >>> They're very dependable engines once you know what makes them tick (or >>> not). >>> >>> Bruce Whitmore >>> 1994 C&C 37/40+ >>> "Astralis" >>> Madeira Beach, FL >>> (847) 404-5092 >>> >>> >>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks - Stu >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind
Charlie, I would not go with the 140%! Either stay with the 155 or go to a 135%. With a 140 you get no credit on your PHRF rating but a 135 will get you a 3 sec/mile bump. Difference between 135 and 140 will not be noticable. I am surprised that a sailmaker made that recommendation to you. Getting several quotes would probably be a good idea. I had my last headsail made by UK sails (they had a loft in wilmington at the time, not sure they still do). I went with a 125% and have been very happy with it. James Taylor Delaney C&C 38 Oriental, NC On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 4:42 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Interesting discussion on sail selection. And that is a broad subject. > What kind of racing? > > While I have retired from racing, I clearly remember racing with a sail > inventory4 head sails (150% light and heavy air...#1, 135%...#2, and > a 100%..#3), 2 spinnakers (systematical 3/4 oz. and a 1/2 oz.). Many > races we (I as the foredeck person) was changing head sails to suit > changes conditions. We sometimes did a spinnaker peel (something we > practiced). The main stayed full until we had to go down to the #3. > Much of this racing was on a C&C 33 MKII and a C&C 34R. > > Where I sail here in Halifax Harbour, Nova Scotia, Canada, there is no > one sail that works best for any given race day. I am now a reacher, > not a racer, but I still know the difference in sail selection for the > conditions. I now sail much of the season with a furled 135%...it is my > go to sail...many days my 100% blade is the sail to have...one day last > year, a fellow lister here that we raced a lot together, was coming with > me for an afternoon sail and he said "it is going to be a light air day, > bring your 155% light air Kevlar today I did we dropped the 135% and > hoisted the 155% and it was the right sail for the day. The next day, > no way could I hoist the 155%. > > One head sail for racing is something I have no knowledge and/or > experience in and therefore have no relevant or helpful advice. > > If you wish to race with only one head sail, and your prevailing wind is > around 10 knots true, my best guess would be a 135%. > > Robert Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Bottom painting question
Charlie, I'm thinking that sanding an ablative paint is a waste of effort. Since the surface is constantly being refreshed, the smooth surface that you create by sanding is gone in a short time frame. If you want a super smooth bottom I would think that it would be better to use a hard, non-ablative paint and spend a little money having a dive service scrub the bottom on a monthly basis. For our area, I have had great success with Trinidad. My last bottom job lasted for more than 5 years. James Taylor S/V Delaney C&C 38 Oriental, NC Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: boat stuff for sale
I'm very interested in one of Asym spin, but the measurements of them don't seem to match the Genoas. I'm with Edd, what are the J, I and ISP measurements of your boat? James Taylor Delaney C&C 38 Mk2 Oriental NC On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 11:36 AM Edd Schillay wrote: > Please be sure to trim your messages when replying to an email. > Pete, > > Which C&C do you have? What are your I and J measurements? > > I may be interested in one of your asyms. > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > On Oct 12, 2020, at 11:17 AM, < > pete.shelqu...@comcast.net> wrote: > > Please be sure to trim your messages when replying to an email. > All – > 2nd try at this listing. I’m not sure what happened the first time, but > it here goes again…. > ** > > I have a few items for sale if anyone is interested; > > Cross cut dacron jib =48’10”x45’4”x16’ Good+ condition, #6 luff tape, $250 > L/M #1 Dacron = 48’6” x48’x24’6” Good condition, #6 luff tape, $200 > White asym spin = 55’6”x 47’6”x31’ Fair condition, $150 > Green asym spin = 55’2”x 47’3”x 31’ Fair condition $150 > White asym spin =55’6”x47’8”x31’ Fair condition $150 > 2x Barient 28 Non ST = $100 ea. > > All prices +shipping from Minneapolis. > > Thanks, > > October is time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough
Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full power and smooth running! James Delaney C&C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4) Oriental, NC On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:03 PM Robert Mazza wrote: > Could be a clogged idle jet in the carburetor. Moyer has an excellent > video on YouTube on clearing the carburetor jets. > > On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 3:55 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hello Listers, >> >> The last several times I’ve taken out my 30 MK I, her A4 has been running >> rough, especially at low RPM (sometimes quitting at idle). >> >> I have the Moyer manuals, and will start a diagnostic procedure. But >> wanted to check the collective wisdom here. >> >> My first instinct is fuel flow. I motor so little I can generally go all >> season on one tank. This being late in the season, I wonder if I’m down to >> some sludge in the tank and my fuel filter is clogged. >> >> Cheers, >> Randy >> S/V Grenadine >> C&C 30 MK I #79 >> Ken Caryl, CO >> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution >> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Re: Your preferences
How are all of our members on the Gulf Coast doing? BTW, I might just like the update James 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
Sorry Harry Bought them last night. To good a deal to pass up James Delaney C%C 38 mk2 Oriental nc On Sep 4, 2015 4:55 PM, "Harry Hallgring via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Bill, > EXACTLY what I'm looking for!! > > > Harry > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 4, 2015, at 16:24, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > >> On Flea Bay, nice looking Aluminum pair, >> >> >> >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/361380512546?item=361380512546&viewitem=&vxp=mtr >> >> >> >> No affiliation, >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> >> >> Bill Coleman >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List >> Sent: Friday, September 04, 2015 10:08 AM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: robert >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Reporting when entering Canadian waters >> >> >> >> And the Governor of Wisconsin running for the Republican presidential nomination wants to build a fence along the USA / Canada border ..apparently he thinks we Canucks are a big threat to our southern neighbors...or he wants to keep you guys is. >> >> Rob Abbott >> AZURA >> C&C 32 - 84 >> Halifax, N.S. >> >> >> >> >> >> On 2015-09-04 10:21 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: >>> >>> Just when we thought the US Border Patrol was making things miserable – >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.npr.org/2015/09/01/436525751/canada-enforces-pleasure-boat-reporting-requirements >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Actually, coming back from Canada this year the USBP were very co-operative, I called them, they took all info on the phone as we were coming across, I notified 8 or 9 other boats to do the same and >>> USBP met us at the club and just walked over and gave me a number, and that was it, the smoothest it has been since it started. >>> >>> Canada was even easier, we had sent our boat and crew info with help from the organizers of the race to the Canadian Border Patrol, and we just called CANPASS with our Documentation # and they said welcome to Canada. Looks like now It will be more complicated just crossing the imaginary line than actually docking over there. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> >>> >>> Email address: >>> >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >>> >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows
One the first one that I already removed I used a 4" stiff blade putty knife. That worked very well and I got it out with no damage. Looks like finding the spine and gasket shouldn't be a problem and I'll use butyl to reinstall the frames if I decide to go the rebuild route. James Delaney 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: Bob Moriarty To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 3:05 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows If you want to remove the frames without bending them (much), use a machete. After removing the screws, tap the machete down along the top edge between the frame and the cabin top and then gently pry. I wish I had used that method on all four frames. The old spline was shot and I couldn't find a replacement so I used 4200 to seal the new lenses into the frames. It really helped having the frames out of the boat and on a horizontal surface to do this. So far so good. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL Looking for comments. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows
Mike, Thanks for the info. On my boat the cabin windows are only 24" x 6". Lewmar standard portlight size 4 is 24.75" x 6.75" so I only have to enlarge the opening by 3/4" in each dimension and make sure that the corner radius is correct. The deck in this area does not have any core, it's just solid glass with a separate glass headliner. As Dennis pointed out, I can shim the headliner to get the thickness consistent. Defender sells these for $325 each. OTOH, my frames are still in pretty good shape and could easily be used again. James Delaney 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: Hoyt, Mike To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 3:15 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows The extruded aluminum framed windows are very easy to rebed. First -if there is no leak around the outside of teh aluminum then leave the frames in place. Remove the old spline and foam gasket and the pane will come out. Contact South Shore Yachts for new spine and gasket or if you are resourceful find it elsewhere cheaper. Use old ppane as template and have new one cut at autoglass store out of lexan or plexi or whatever. I paid $15 per pane in 2003 when I did this. New panes go in easily with no fuss. In my case PO had removed the existing framed windows from the two 35 inch swindows and the smaller 11 inch ones forward on both sides. Replaced with tinted plexi bolted over from outside. It did not look more modern and it did not look good. As a matter of fact it looked awful. I purchased "new" aluminum frames from South Shore Yachts at $90 each. These were original parts that they cleaned up and shipped to me. Forward I used Beckson opening ports which were great and reasonably priced. I was not aware that Lewmar had 35 inch opening ports but they would be nice. My total cost for 35 inch windows was undr $200 a side all in. The Lewmar ones I looked at (which were not large enough anyway) started at $800 each Mike -- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Moriarty Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 4:05 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows If you want to remove the frames without bending them (much), use a machete. After removing the screws, tap the machete down along the top edge between the frame and the cabin top and then gently pry. I wish I had used that method on all four frames. The old spline was shot and I couldn't find a replacement so I used 4200 to seal the new lenses into the frames. It really helped having the frames out of the boat and on a horizontal surface to do this. So far so good. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL Looking for comments. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows
Dennis, I'm leaning towards the Lewmars, just want to make sure that there isn't some disadvantage that I'm not seeing. The install looks very straightforward so I don't think I need the pics but thanks for the offer. James Delaney 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: Dennis C. To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 3:22 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows I replaced one of Touche's old aluminum frame ports with a Lewmar. Very pleased with the job. It wasn't overly difficult. The only trick was to ensure uniform spacing between the cabin structure and headliner. I used small dowels to shim as necessary. You could use tongue depressors, Popsicle sticks, wooden ice cream spoons, etc. just as well. I have pics of the job on my computer at home. Unfortunately, I'm still in Colorado for another couple weeks before I can send them. I could get the Admiral to send if needed. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 23, 2013, at 11:54 AM, james taylor wrote: I have started a project to renew the windows on my 1976 C&C 38. The current cabin windows are the original aluminum frame windows and are fogged and leaky. I'm debating between repairing with new gaskets and acrylic or just replacing with lewmar portlights. The lewmar's would be slightly larger but I don't think enlarging the current opening would present any problems and I like the idea of opening windows,but are a good deal more expensive, about 1 boat buck extra. The current frames look decent but are 36 years old and the Al is getting pretty brittle. Looking for comments. James Delaney 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Repair/Replace Framed Windows
I have started a project to renew the windows on my 1976 C&C 38. The current cabin windows are the original aluminum frame windows and are fogged and leaky. I'm debating between repairing with new gaskets and acrylic or just replacing with lewmar portlights. The lewmar's would be slightly larger but I don't think enlarging the current opening would present any problems and I like the idea of opening windows,but are a good deal more expensive, about 1 boat buck extra. The current frames look decent but are 36 years old and the Al is getting pretty brittle. Looking for comments. James Delaney 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
