Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication
I have been using cheap vegetable oil for years with good results. I am in fresh water. From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 5:45 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman I remember reading on one of the cruising forums to use Baby Oil. Tried that, and now my Skipper really feels like the rubber in the pump is galling. (plus, yes, it probably puts a coating in the holding tank) I went back to the Thetford lubricant, and it works good after that, but It doesn't last long. Think I am going to have to rebuild the seals, maybe I will stick to the thetford stuff after that. I get it at the RV store, cheaper. Regards, Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2015 12:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication I used to use olive oil, but my feeling now is that would leave a film on top of the liquid in the holding tank, preventing air from getting at it, which would result on a foul odor. Perhaps one of the dedicated head lubes would be the ticket. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 12:21 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote: So, how is the Jabsco head lubricated? Just toss Crisco in the bowl and flush? Mine was out of use for a while and appears to work, but squeaks a bit and feels stiff.  Thanks,  Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com (416) 203-9858  ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Replying to messages
Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Stu via CnC-List Sent: February 22, 2016 3:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stu Subject: Stus-List Replying to messages Just my friendly (maybe monthly) reminder when you reply to messages: 1. Change the subject line so that it reflects on the content of the message. “Digest vol xxx issue xxx” does not tell anyone what is in the post. 2. Please trim your message. No problem if the last email is included, but when it contains 6 or 7 previous messages the email gets too large and will be rejected. If you are having problems replying, it would help to assist you if we knew which email program you were using and if it is web-based or a stand-a-lone program on your computer. Have a good day everyone Stu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sail loft service
I bought a main for my 27-III from Fx sails in North Carolina. Quite satisfied. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: February 25, 2016 2:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service One of the guys doing the Bermuda race had a new main made locally by Evolution Sails. First time the leech was 18 inches too short. No report on the second one. I had to measure for my new main. I was a little nervous, but very careful! The foot on the TapeDrive was about 4 inches short. Now my sail cover is short and my main is not. Dennis is right that its about the design. I asked Bacon's what software he used. When he told me it was Quantum's I was comfortable. Just wish I could afford the same material for the Hylas! Joel 35/3 Hylas 44 Annapolis Joel 35/3 On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 2:10 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: That is really good advice guys! thank you!! although, no snow around here any more chuck, it's like spring today! 55 and sunny! -- Original Message -- From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List To: Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 13:17:40 -0500 Danny, I would echo Marek’s suggestion of taking some measurements now, even if the loft is willing to store the sail for you. I had North Cruising Direct build a sail for me several years ago and provided them the old sail so they would have a template to go along with their own database of the rig dimensions. The sail was built during the winter and I received it in late February at which time they asked if I wanted to donate the old sail to a company making stuff from used sail cloth. I said I’d hold on to the old one and was very glad I did. When I went to bend on the new mainsail in May when I launched, the new sail was almost 1’ too short on the boom and roughly 6” short of a full hoist. It turns out, the loft never measured my old sail and relied solely on their rig measurement database, which neglected to identify that a 25 Mk1 has a longer boom than the 25Mk2. So, my new sail went back to North and we waited 8 more weeks for the new sail to be built, taking us well into July before I received it. And this was because the North Cruising Direct Sails are built in Sri Lanka and despite their screw up, they would not build a sail to the correct measurements in the local Rhode Island or Connecticut loft. Had I donated the old sail, the first half of my season would have been lost. So my suggestion, measure the new sail against the old one while there’s still snow on the ground… Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 mk1 Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service I would at least measure the luff length. If they made a mistake (and they do happen), you want to catch it early and have them redo the sail (D would only hope that the mistake was on their part, not yours). If the luff is too long, the sail is useless and you want to know that part asap. The rest will show up on the rigging day. Or the first sailing day. Or even later. good luck Marek From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 12:24 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service They sent me a form with diagrams of what they wanted and tips on how to get them. They also had me take as high a definition photo from the side of the boat, fully rigged and used that, scaled it and double checked all of my measurments to the scaled photo. Scaling a photo can be surprisingly accurate. I do this to study existing spaces all the time and there are plenty of software that allow you to calibrate the photo and take measurements. Of course, the real test will not come for a couple of months. I did feel there was some room for interpolation as, I don't race. I'm not overly fussy when it comes to sail shape. If she isn't luffing and the tell tales seem to be doing what they should, I'm happy as long as the boat is moving along. I am a bit concerned about spreader patches, they just send stick on patches. -- Original Message -- From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: "C&C List" Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail loft service Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2016 11:48:07 -0500 Danny, I am curious as to the measurement process. What did you measure and how did you know how/what to measure. While watching my loft take measurements for the headsail, I was shocked at the different measurements he took. Each spreader, radar, babystay. Those are just a few which I would have trouble describing let alone understanding the measurement desired. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C
Re: Stus-List Removing prop
I bought a cheap wheel puller from Princess Auto. Works. Fine. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ainslie via CnC-List Sent: February 29, 2016 5:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ainslie Subject: Stus-List Removing prop Hi… I want to remove the propeller from my 35-3. It’s a fixed 3-blade (15 R 14), and I’m looking for a folding prop. I have a line on a used one, but want to be sure about shaft fit etc. The question is: how do I brace the shaft to get the nut off? Put it in gear? Put a pipe-wrench to the anode on the shaft? Or just grip the prop well enough to loosen the nut? And when the nut’s off, will the prop come off as easily as the one on my outboard, or will I need a puller? Any tips would help. Thanks in advance… Jason Ainslie, “Spirit” 1984 C&C 35 Mk III Port of Bayfield ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25
I always drill out the rudder in the fall. It drains that way. I now have fittings to fill theholes in sailing season. No issues. C&C 27 MK III Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List Sent: February 29, 2016 8:27 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy Subject: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 Hello everyone, I have a crack on the aft portion of the rudder where the two halves are joined. From what I can see, It is above the waterline. Recently I had a survey done and the moisture meter said there was some dampness behind the crack. Also, there are three or four dime sized blisters below the waterline. The rudder does not seem to be weeping when removed from the water. The surveyor said the rudder was serviceable but that I'd need to fix it in the future. Any ideas on how to repair my rudder? I saw an article online on how to fix rudder cracks on the side, but I'm not quite sure how to fix the aft joint. Also, the boat is in St Augustine and I need to move it to Fort Pierce. I'm planning on motoring down the ICW in a couple weeks. I'd rather take care of it when I get the boat to it's new home. But I'm curious if you think I should take care of it before I leave. Thanks a lot, Mark McMenamy C&C 25 "Icicle" Fort Pierce FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails (AwlWood reference.)
I like cetol because it’s quick and easy to use and can easily be touched up. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List Sent: April 19, 2016 5:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails (AwlWood reference.) As regards what finish to use on the exterior handrails, another product to consider is Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA. Claims to be “more" resistant to UV. I’ve used it and it applies a bit thicker than traditional varnish thus requiring fewer coats. As far as weather resistance goes, all my finished varnish work is sitting overhead in the trusses of my shed so who knows… Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit On Apr 19, 2016, at 3:13 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote: Randy, She looks beautiful! I did the handrails on my Viking a few years ago. But there was no headliner and the interior handrails did not alight with the exterior. They were lagged through the coach roof though and the screw heads were very obvious. I would suggest having a look at compass marine's web page about advice in plugging off the screw holes, re-drilling and countersinking the penetrations if it isn't already done. that is an awesome resource for a bunch of boat systems. I used epiphanies varnish on the handrails and coated them 8 times all around. I think if I were to do it again I might epoxy them first but, the jury is still out as that epoxy kind of just peels up in prolonged UV exposure. I also bedded them using the butyl tape recommended in the compass marine article and bought that from compass. In fact I followed the bedding instructions on the site as closely as I could. Those rails did not leak for the 3 seasons I had her after the replacement and I stepped on the repeatedly. I also replaced the forward hatch the same year, the same way and again no leaks. what really sold me on butyl is that the deck hull joint was sealed that way and nearly 40 years later it was still pliable! Danny On 4/19/2016 2:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote: ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding
You,ll find it easier yo straighten them if you apply a little heat. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
