Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

 ^
  
What he said. Was also with BoatUS forever, til they changed to Geico 
underwriting, then premiums went thru roof. Now with Progressive. Whichever way 
you go, if you’re racing, make sure you’re covered. Keep liability up there. 

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR

> 

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

X2 from this Randy!

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR

> On Mar 7, 2022, at 10:45 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All my devices are Apple and I’ve had no such trouble.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
There are no links in this footer.

Stus-List Re: Cutting Boards

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

Received my cutting board the other day, well done sir, very nice, and thank 
you much!

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR

> 
> Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: New C&C Items

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

I’m in!

Thanks Stu,

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

Might it be just removal of material to balance the coupling?

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR

> On Jun 26, 2020, at 9:42 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are.  In regards to the coupling 
> there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole.  I imagine it might be 
> for a set screw or lock screw.  It does not extend through to the shaft.  I'm 
> not sure it is visible in any picture.  Anybody have any thoughts on it's 
> expected purpose.  I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine).
> 
> I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience.  The epoxy paint 
> would have to be Grey.  Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine 
> compartment to use white and have it get dirty.
> 
> TBH, I'd rather be sailing.  And paint doesn't make the boat sail better.
> 
> Josh
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Looks great.
> 
> That transmission flange still gives me a woody.
> 
>  
> 
> Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you 
> should,  I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice 
> white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery.
> 
>  
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
> 
>  
> 
> I completed the shaft install today.  I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches 
> of shaft log.  Everything else went pretty well.
> 
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g 
> 
>  
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> 
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>  
> 
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please 
> disregard.
> 
>  
> 
> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+.  In 
> the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut 
> bearing.
> 
>  
> 
> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid 
> coupling.  I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to 
> reuse.  The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new coupling 
> is a split coupling from R&D Marine.  The new seal and coupling have added 
> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most.
> 
>  
> 
> So here comes the question. 
> 
>  
> 
> First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I have 3. 
> 
> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be 
> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the 
> thickness of the coupling bolts.
> 
> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated
> 
> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation 
> available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself 
> on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on 
> the shaft and can even overheat.
> 
>  
> 
> Second:
> 
> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut the log 
> shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more 
> free shaft and room for the seal to articulate.  Can any of you see any 
> drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
>  
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> 
> Solomons, MD
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Carbon Fiber Whisker Pole

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

Silver paint.  The competition will think it’s still an aluminum pole!

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR

> On Apr 2, 2020, at 2:19 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> White Paint?
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On Thu, 2 Apr 2020 at 18:18, Richard Bush via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Listers; I recently acquired a carbon fiber whisker pole; 12-22ft X 3.5 in;  
> (Defender sale); I am looking for advice on how to protect the pole from UV 
> rays; I have seen some photos of the pole deployed on deck with a sunbrella 
> fabric cover; is this the best way? Any better ideas? Are these covers 
> commercially available or should I have one custom made? Many thanks in 
> advance;  
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 

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Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

As long as needed, as in twice step ladder height, sail tie; tie figure eight 
knot near middle; run thru clew to knot; furl; then wrap sail tie (or length of 
line) around furled sail, secure with favorite knot.

randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River,OR


> On Jan 9, 2020, at 10:39 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would likely need a step ladder to wrap a sail tie around the furled genny 
> above the clew
> 
> On Thu, Jan 9, 2020 at 2:23 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I foolproof solution is to wrap and secure a sail tie around the furled 
> genny.  Then it doesn’t matter what’s going on at the back of the boat.
>  
> From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2020 9:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Shawn Wright 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket
>  
> All this talk has my thinking I should double up on my furler lines. I tie a 
> quick loop knot around the final blocks mounted at the cockpit so I can just 
> pull the loop to release them. The line is also flaked and hung from the 
> stern rain, but that's probably not going to save me should the knot come 
> free. I also do two wraps of the sheets around the furler. I think I'll add a 
> more secure knot at the final block to be safe. 
>  
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
>  
>  
> On Wed, Jan 8, 2020 at 5:34 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Tom:
>  
> I don’t know the vintage of your 36, but I’ll bet it’s close to my 
> previous 34.  They were similar boats.
>  
> One morning, I got a call from the dockmaster where I kept my 34.  The 
> boat reportedly tried to sail out of the slip by itself in a heavy breeze.  I 
> later discovered that my then-young children had un-cleated the roller furler 
> line while playing with the winch.  The sail unfurled in the breeze, and at 
> some point the genny sheet wrapped around a lower shroud and ripped it out of 
> the mast.  I had to replace the shroud (rod rigging) and also have the mast 
> repaired (welded) just below the spreader bracket.  Your issue is obviously 
> different, but in my case South Shore Yachts was very helpful.  They also had 
> a direct replacement for a gooseneck fitting that broke.  I suggest calling 
> them.
>  
> Robert MacLachlan
> South Shore Yachts
> 905-468-4340 office
> 905-658-8454 cell
>  
> P.S.  Much more careful about securing the roller furler when I leave the 
> boat these days.
>  
> From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2020 4:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Tom Alessi 
> Subject: Stus-List Spreader Bracket
>  
> Went to check up on my boat the other day and found that my lower port 
> spreader bracket had been pulled off the mast, but still attached to 
> spreader.  Seems a nearby sailboat owner had not removed the jib and it came 
> unfurled during a storm and caught hold of the spreader boot. I can only 
> imagine it violently shaking my spreader and rig. With the bracket partially 
> off I can see a hole in the mast.
> 
> - Is that some kind of access opening behind the bracket? Or is it worse than 
> that? I'm buried in the yard and the mast won't be down till spring.
> 
> -If the bracket or spreader is destroyed, does anyone know of a source for 
> replacements?
> 
> - Boat owner or Boatyard responsible?
> 
> Appreciate any info.
> 
>  
> 
> Tom Alessi
> Andiamo C&C 36
> 646-283-1580
> 
>  
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   htt

Re: Stus-List My outboards..

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

The brand is “No Spill”. Real mixed reviews on amazon.  Seems the company has 
been bought out, newer products aren’t lasting.  I was looking at just the 
spout, as I have plenty of small motor cans, but it seems the cap size is 
proprietary and won’t fit other brand cans.

https://smile.amazon.com/No-Spill-6131-Gas-Nozzle-Assembly/dp/B001QCZQ7I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=no+spill+spout&qid=1576517560&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2
 


randy
29-II
Tamanawas
Hood River, OR

> On Dec 16, 2019, at 8:53 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> What brand is it?
> 
> My beef is mainly with the ones where you have to push the spout to pour.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:11 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I didn’t think this was going to be a controversial topic, but I have a 
> “No-Spill” (that brand) gas can I use for my snowblower/lawn mower and I 
> think it is great.  I have had it for years and don’t spill any fuel using 
> it. You can control the flow rate by how far you push the button.  I am 
> planning to get the smaller (1.25 gal) version for my dinghy/outboard since I 
> invariably spill some gas filling the outboard tank with the bellows style 
> and always end up with fuel on my hands in the process.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 16, 2019, at 9:47 AM, David Risch via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Got them all running myself.  Great learning process and a 
>> heck-uva-lot-cheaper than sending out to an “expert”.
>>  
>> For the little one with an internal tank.  Re-filling fuel is always a messy 
>> process.  Thinking of plumbing in an external tank or purchasing a 
>> “Spill-Proof” gas can.
>>  
>> Any experience with either?  Thanks!
>>  
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Favorite on board boat "go to" tools

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

I like the way you think.  Actually what I expected outa Jim!

randy
Tamanawas
29-2,
The Gorge


> On Oct 7, 2019, at 9:43 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I love my Fluke multi-meter industrial quality. It the standard for hand 
> meter at our power plant.  I bought the boat unit at a thrift shop, found 
> next to a box of old "remotes", for 10 bucks! 
> 
> The essential boat tools are:
> - 4 ounce shot glass
> - bttl of Oakheart 
> - bttl of Gosling Black Seal (and ginger beer/lime)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A

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Re: Stus-List Help needed C&C 44

[randal johnston via CnC-List]

And this should explain the build location based on HIN.


CCY is the Rhode Island 
 plant
ZCC is the Niagara on the Lake plant.

randy
Tamanawas
29-2
Hood River, OR 


> On Jun 2, 2019, at 3:34 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The HIN identifies place of origin. Is there no HIN stamped into the transom? 
> The HIN will also be on your title and documentation.
> 
> Chuck S
> 
>> On June 2, 2019 at 6:13 PM Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: 
>> 
>> Hello, 
>> 
>> I'm in the process of purchasing a 1988 C&C 44 and my customs broker is 
>> giving me a hard time about its place of manufacturing. As far as I can 
>> tell, all C&C 44s after the prototype were built in Middletown, Rhode 
>> Island. Does anyone know how I can prove this to the broker? 
>> 
>> Thanks so much, 
>> 
>> Patrick Gateley
> 
>  
>> 
>> ___ 
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>  
>> 
> 
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> 
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