Re: Stus-List Painting a Painted Hull

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Let me add to Dennis’ apt observations: if you choose the spray-painting route 
you will need all the supporting equipment to make it happen, i.e., a very 
large compressor to run that pneumatic board-file and more importantly, to get 
the correct airflow pressure and rate at the spray gun.

These are issues that I am dealing with at the moment. The compressor that I am 
using doesn’t “quite” have the ability to constantly supply 90 psi at the gun. 
This has not been a problem when shooting the primer but I expect that it will 
be when I go to shoot the top-coat. I’m mulling this one over right now; do I 
try to get by because I’m shooting very little area that is gloss or do I rent 
a larger compressor? One option I have is to gang another 30-gallon tank to the 
existing one. We’ll see.

If you go ahead and paint your hull you will find the axiom that preparation is 
90% of the job to be accurate. I would completely remove any prior paint. The 
spraying part is not the ‘hardest’ part. And keep in mind as I did, if you use 
Awlcraft 2000 or something similar, you can always come back and fix the 
mistakes. 

A new paint job on the hull is always nifty.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 24, 2016, at 11:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> 
> If you don't KNOW what paint is on the topsides, then the best course is to 
> sand it all off.  You could try priming over the old paint but you may 
> encounter compatibility issues.  
> 
> When I had Touche' painted, we did not know what the previous paint(s) were.  
> Rumors around the marina were that it was Imron but nobody knew for sure.
> 
> I prepped the topsides paint by washing with degreaser and sanding with 320 
> grit.  We sprayed a 3' x 3' test area with Awlcraft, the chosen paint.  In 
> that small area, the test spray beaded up on the old paint, reacted with the 
> old paint and generally did some other bad things.   The ONE thing it didn't 
> do was lay down smoothly as desired.  Oops!!
> 
> So, I sanded the old paint off.  I counted at least 2 previous coats.  It 
> took one day per side.  I used a Hutchins straight line sander similar to 
> this:  
> 
> https://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=4346 
> 
> 
> The results were very good.  Touche', like many older boats, showed post cure 
> shrinkage.  That is, you could see the pattern of the underlying roving on 
> the hull.  The Hutchins sander removed the pattern leaving a smooth hull.  
> This is important when spraying a shiny top coat.  Repairing all the 
> blemishes and having a smooth hull prior to painting is critical.  It took 
> three coats of high build primer with sanding between coats to obtain a 
> suitably smooth hull.  The sanding was followed with a top coat of Awlcraft.  
> I get compliments on the paint 5 years later.
> 
> Spraying paint isn't incredibly difficult but it does take patience and 
> technique.  The right combination of air pressure and liquid/air mix takes a 
> bit of work to achieve.  Finally, the application technique requires skill to 
> maintain the correct distance as well as trigger on/off when spraying.  A bit 
> of practice can develop your skill.
> 
> Interlux Perfection is billed as a paint somewhat geared to the DIY market.  
> 
> BTW, years ago I picked up a Wavelength 24 in Fort Collins and brought it 
> back to Louisiana.  I picked it up from a marine repair/paint shop.  Very 
> nicely painted by the lady owner of the shop.  Can't remember any details.  
> She used Sterling enamel.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 9:54 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Listers-
> 
> I've come to the conclusion that Grenadine's hull is painted the same color 
> as her original gelcoat (red).  It appears a coat of grey primer was painted 
> over the original gelcoat, then a layer of red paint was applied.  I have no 
> idea what kind of paint was used (is there a way to tell?) or when the boat 
> was painted.  What I do know is it's probably time to repaint.  She oxidized 
> pretty badly over the course of the summer, even though I buffed her three 
> times with a 3M marine product, and waxed her with carnuba, before splashing 
> her in the spring.  She looked pretty good and shiny back then, but the 
> summer sun took its toll.
> 
> So anyway, my question is, what wisdom might you listers have to impart, 
> about the proper way to paint over a painted hull?  Grenadine is on the hard 
> for five months now, and I'm not afraid of hard work.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> (on the hard in) Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations 

Re: Stus-List Painting a Painted Hull

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Randy,

Back in May I found myself in a similar situation with my 1976 30-1 - which I 
just recently sold... The wife and I just put a deposit down on a Morgan 382 
and we are pending survey... I hope you all will still talk to me now that I'm 
not officially a C owner. 

Anyhow,  I figured I would repost my experience using Interlux Brigtside one 
part hull paint.  You may decide to go with a two-part Interlux or something 
else entirely... but I hope you find this helpful.  I found the interlux hull 
paint products to be really solid... that said, I do have complaints about the 
Interlux non skid deck paint (mainly that it collects an unbelievable about of 
dirt and it is really hard to clean)... but I'll post about that some other 
time.  

Her hull still looks great after a season.  A few nicks from the dinghy were 
easy to touch up and blended nicely.


Cheers,
Ryan


--- my post from May 2016 ---
Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
  
I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 

Re: Stus-List Painting a Painted Hull

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Randy,

If you don't KNOW what paint is on the topsides, then the best course is to
sand it all off.  You could try priming over the old paint but you may
encounter compatibility issues.

When I had Touche' painted, we did not know what the previous paint(s)
were.  Rumors around the marina were that it was Imron but nobody knew for
sure.

I prepped the topsides paint by washing with degreaser and sanding with 320
grit.  We sprayed a 3' x 3' test area with Awlcraft, the chosen paint.  In
that small area, the test spray beaded up on the old paint, reacted with
the old paint and generally did some other bad things.   The ONE thing it
didn't do was lay down smoothly as desired.  Oops!!

So, I sanded the old paint off.  I counted at least 2 previous coats.  It
took one day per side.  I used a Hutchins straight line sander similar to
this:

https://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=4346

The results were very good.  Touche', like many older boats, showed post
cure shrinkage.  That is, you could see the pattern of the underlying
roving on the hull.  The Hutchins sander removed the pattern leaving a
smooth hull.  This is important when spraying a shiny top coat.  Repairing
all the blemishes and having a smooth hull prior to painting is critical.
It took three coats of high build primer with sanding between coats to
obtain a suitably smooth hull.  The sanding was followed with a top coat of
Awlcraft.  I get compliments on the paint 5 years later.

Spraying paint isn't incredibly difficult but it does take patience and
technique.  The right combination of air pressure and liquid/air mix takes
a bit of work to achieve.  Finally, the application technique requires
skill to maintain the correct distance as well as trigger on/off when
spraying.  A bit of practice can develop your skill.

Interlux Perfection is billed as a paint somewhat geared to the DIY
market.

BTW, years ago I picked up a Wavelength 24 in Fort Collins and brought it
back to Louisiana.  I picked it up from a marine repair/paint shop.  Very
nicely painted by the lady owner of the shop.  Can't remember any details.
She used Sterling enamel.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 9:54 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers-
>
> I've come to the conclusion that Grenadine's hull is painted the same
> color as her original gelcoat (red).  It appears a coat of grey primer was
> painted over the original gelcoat, then a layer of red paint was applied.
> I have no idea what kind of paint was used (is there a way to tell?) or
> when the boat was painted.  What I do know is it's probably time to
> repaint.  She oxidized pretty badly over the course of the summer, even
> though I buffed her three times with a 3M marine product, and waxed her
> with carnuba, before splashing her in the spring.  She looked pretty good
> and shiny back then, but the summer sun took its toll.
>
> So anyway, my question is, what wisdom might you listers have to impart,
> about the proper way to paint over a painted hull?  Grenadine is on the
> hard for five months now, and I'm not afraid of hard work.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> (on the hard in) Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!