Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
Hi Russ, There is an unknown number of inches of air now “trapped” in the system but would estimate at least 12” if not more based on the height of the fuel level in the tank [and therefore within the pickup tube] plus the fitting on top of the tank and whatever length of hose fuel dribbled out of when I disconnected the hose from the pickup fitting. Then there is 9-10 feet of fuel in the hose to reach the fuel pump on the engine. To my knowledge, the engine is not self bleeding. If it were then just running the engine should solve the issue. Can anyone confirm if that would work? I could try to start the engine and let it run on that 9-10’ of fuel but assumed once that air bubble reached the engine it would stall out. Am on land so cannot run the engine with a load. In previous years I have bled the system at the secondary filter and the HP pump using the finger lever on the fuel pump, but never needed to bleed the injectors. Reading online seems to indicate that is a 2 person job with one pressing the starter button to turn over the engine while the other monitors each injector and closes the bleed screw when solid fuel comes out. Am working solo on this and am not sure I could turn the crankshaft by hand with the compression valves open, if that would work. Using the manual pump and cracking open the bleed screw on the secondary fuel filter should work, it just will take a while and push that 9-10’ of fuel in the hose out onto oil absorb pads and of course all over the side of the engine. Was hoping there was a better [cleaner and faster] way. Have read about annealing the copper washers [probably on this list years ago] but figured Mr Murphy would stop by with his impeccable timing if I tried to do that… Thanks, Brian From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2018 11:48 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Russ & Melody Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F Hi Brian, >From your description posted a while ago, you do not have a system full of >air. Nor do you have a filter full of air. You have at most a few inches of >air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case? Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running? BTW, copper washers as easily annealed using a propane torch. Google for the method. Then they are reusable. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 08:22 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=_NextPart_000_0003_01D3E52C.7D8F9580" Content-Language: en-us Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under time pressure to get the boat launched…  Am still on the hard over an hour’s drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time. Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times? Unlike the Yanmar copper washers…  Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel system? Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers when replacing the fuel filter housing. A “professional†mechanic had over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads. Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed.  Do not want to cause more problems: “If your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.â€Â May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually… Any other suggestions? Thanks, Brian <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free. <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avg.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
Hi Brian, From your description posted a while ago, you do not have a system full of air. Nor do you have a filter full of air. You have at most a few inches of air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case? Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running? BTW, copper washers as easily annealed using a propane torch. Google for the method. Then they are reusable. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 08:22 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=_NextPart_000_0003_01D3E52C.7D8F9580" Content-Language: en-us Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under time pressure to get the boat launched   Am still on the hard over an hourâs drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time. Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times? Unlike the Yanmar copper washers   Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel system? Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers when replacing the fuel filter housing. A âprofessionalâ mechanic had over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads. Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed.  Do not want to cause more problems: âIf your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.â May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually  Any other suggestions? Thanks, Brian --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under time pressure to get the boat launched… Am still on the hard over an hour’s drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time. Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times? Unlike the Yanmar copper washers… Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel system? Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers when replacing the fuel filter housing. A “professional” mechanic had over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads. Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed. Do not want to cause more problems: “If your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.” May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually… Any other suggestions? Thanks, Brian From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 04, 2018 8:26 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F I have found that the 3HM35F (almost the same engine) primes very easily. I make more than problems by opening the official bleed screws. They will perpetually leak. In fact, I JB welded the screw on the engine filter and the HP pump in place. I have replaced the associated banjo fitting copper washers with seal washers. Yanmar makes some which I can provide the part numbers for or you can use seal washers from McMaster-Carr. This was a huge upgrade that completely eliminated fuel and air leaks. I have also installed a priming bulb in the fuel supply line which helps prime the entire system including the racor. When I prime the system I prime the racor and then I only loosen the fuel banjo fitting into the engine filter. Once it is clear I loosen the banjo at the HP pump. 2 points and that's it. With copper washers you need to replace them but with seal washers they are reusable. https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8 https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, May 4, 2018, 6:06 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the tank – though did not really need to do so. Now presumably there is some air in the fuel hose. Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of the engine? Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6 months] and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine? There is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’ of fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw. Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the engine. Thanks, Brian ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
I have found that the 3HM35F (almost the same engine) primes very easily. I make more than problems by opening the official bleed screws. They will perpetually leak. In fact, I JB welded the screw on the engine filter and the HP pump in place. I have replaced the associated banjo fitting copper washers with seal washers. Yanmar makes some which I can provide the part numbers for or you can use seal washers from McMaster-Carr. This was a huge upgrade that completely eliminated fuel and air leaks. I have also installed a priming bulb in the fuel supply line which helps prime the entire system including the racor. When I prime the system I prime the racor and then I only loosen the fuel banjo fitting into the engine filter. Once it is clear I loosen the banjo at the HP pump. 2 points and that's it. With copper washers you need to replace them but with seal washers they are reusable. https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8 https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, May 4, 2018, 6:06 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the > tank – though did not really need to do so. Now presumably there is some > air in the fuel hose. > > > > Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of > the engine? Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6 > months] and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine? > There is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’ of > fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite > a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed > screw. Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the > side of the engine. > > > > Thanks, > > Brian > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
Hi Brian, It is best to run the engine, with a bit o' load if you can. If it stops due to air then bleeding at the injectors is pretty easy but you might get lucky and it will just hiccup but keep running. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 03:05 PM 5/4/2018, you wrote: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=_NextPart_000_0056_01D3E3D2.86506790" Content-language: en-us I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the tank though did not really need to do so. Now presumably there is some air in the fuel hose. Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of the engine? Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6 months] and hopefully pull the air bubble to the fuel filter / engine? There is ~ 6 of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4 of fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw. Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the engine. Thanks, Brian ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
Brian, I think you’re going to need to get the air out of the system by using the manual pump and the bleed screws along the way. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Captain of the Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, New York www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone X iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On May 4, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List wrote: I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the tank – though did not really need to do so. Now presumably there is some air in the fuel hose. Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of the engine? Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6 months] and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine? There is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’ of fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw. Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the engine. Thanks, Brian ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
