Re: Stus-List mast tuning

2015-08-05 Thread Monty Schumpert via CnC-List
Hi David,
Just noticed your note. When I re-stepped the mast this spring I read two
different articles on tuning. The first recommended tuning without the mast
blocks installed and I tried that but could never get the rake correct, so
after reading Cutter's article, I loosened all the shrouds, and the
backstay turnbuckles and put the blocks in, having to use a wedge to get
the aft block in. I have a new headstay and furler so had to do some
adjusting with the turnbuckle to get the right length and rake. I have the
rake about right but don't have a precise measurement because the mainsail
is still flaked on the boom, but it's a lot closer (less) than before.
Then I tightened the backstay turnbuckles, with the adjuster off, and  then
re-adjusted the headstay and backstay turnbuckles alternately get the
proper rake with what seems to be about the right headstay tension,
according to Cutter's article. I still need to do more work on the shroud
tension -- the mast head is centered via the uppers, and the sail track
straight, but the last time I went sailing there seemed to be too much
slack in the leeward shrouds in 12-14 kts. of breeze. I'll let you know how
the rest of the tuning goes.
Monty

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi Monty- Thanks for pointing that out.  I had read it a while ago, but
 forgot about it.  One thing I still find confusing is the backstay.  With
 the split wire backstay, no matter where you have the car, it is putting
 tension on the mast.  The amount of tension would depend on the tightness
 of the turnbuckles in the back.  So in what state do you measure the rake?
 With the backstay removed or with the adjuster in its loosest position?
 Once adjusted, how does one set those rear turnbuckles?  Dave

 On Aug 2, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Monty Schumpert via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 David,
 Check out the article Rod Rigging -- Generic Tuning by Greg Cutter in
 the Do It Yourself section of the CC Photo Album and Resource Center. I'm
 going through the same process after re-stepping the mast on my 34+ this
 spring.

 Monty
 Scandia
 1991 CC 34+
 Annapolis, MD

 On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 11:59 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I took a good look at my furler, mast, shrouds and stays yesterday
 preparatory to trying to do some mast tuning.  I am unsure as to the best
 way of going about this process and could use some advice.
  I found that I was raked somewhere between 18 and 24 inches aft, which
 is much too far by all accounts, so I want to bring the mast back to 6-12
 inches.  I have read the guides, but it is the specifics of different
 mast/shroud/stay combinations is what I am unsure about.  It was more
 straightforward on my previous 34.   My mast has no adjustment possible at
 the base or through deck unlike my old one.  As near as I can tell, it is
 all done with shrouds and stays.  The backstay is a split wire with a
 pinching car that runs up and down to control backstay tension.  The
 backstay wires runs to two turnbuckles on the transom.  The spreaders are
 only slightly swept back but the rod shrouds run to a position just behind
 the mast.  One runs to the top of the mast and the other part way up, both
 passing through the same point on the lower spreader.  The top ones are
 extremely tight, with no flex/sag on the leeward side when sailing upwind.
 The lowers are a bit less tight but still no sag.  There is a third rod,
 which I am forgetting where it terminates on the mast, but presumably lower
 down.  Forestay is on a Harken furler.
 So how to proceed (or wait for the Rendezvous and get all the great minds
 together for a tuning session!)
 1.  Should I disconnect the backstay before doing anything with the
 shrouds? The car on the split stay can only go so high without running out
 of wire, so even at its topmost position, it is putting some tension on the
 backstay.  I can tie another line to it and let it run up further but it
 makes more sense to me to remove them altogether or loosen the turnbuckles
 as much as possible.
 2.  Presumably, I would then loosen all the shrouds and then tighten the
 bolt on the furler to bring the mast forward, then recheck rake after
 tightening the shrouds somewhat?
 3. After adjusting rake, how would the tension of the backstay be
 adjusted?  Presumably minimal tension with the car at its topmost position?
The tightness of those turnbuckles is going to affect the amount of
 tension the adjuster is able to generate, so that would seem an important
 adjustment, but I have not seen any guide to how to set that.
 4.  When to check the rake?  With the backstay loose/disconnected or in
 its nominal highest position?
 5. One thought I have had is that before doing any of the above actions,
 I should recheck the rake with the backstay removed just to see if it makes
 any significant difference.  I know they were removed to take the boat out
 of 

Re: Stus-List mast tuning

2015-08-03 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List
Hi Monty- Thanks for pointing that out.  I had read it a while ago, but forgot 
about it.  One thing I still find confusing is the backstay.  With the split 
wire backstay, no matter where you have the car, it is putting tension on the 
mast.  The amount of tension would depend on the tightness of the turnbuckles 
in the back.  So in what state do you measure the rake?  With the backstay 
removed or with the adjuster in its loosest position?  Once adjusted, how does 
one set those rear turnbuckles?  Dave

On Aug 2, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Monty Schumpert via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 David,
 Check out the article Rod Rigging -- Generic Tuning by Greg Cutter in the 
 Do It Yourself section of the CC Photo Album and Resource Center. I'm going 
 through the same process after re-stepping the mast on my 34+ this spring.
 
 Monty
 Scandia
 1991 CC 34+
 Annapolis, MD
 
 On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 11:59 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I took a good look at my furler, mast, shrouds and stays yesterday 
 preparatory to trying to do some mast tuning.  I am unsure as to the best way 
 of going about this process and could use some advice.
  I found that I was raked somewhere between 18 and 24 inches aft, which is 
 much too far by all accounts, so I want to bring the mast back to 6-12 
 inches.  I have read the guides, but it is the specifics of different 
 mast/shroud/stay combinations is what I am unsure about.  It was more 
 straightforward on my previous 34.   My mast has no adjustment possible at 
 the base or through deck unlike my old one.  As near as I can tell, it is all 
 done with shrouds and stays.  The backstay is a split wire with a pinching 
 car that runs up and down to control backstay tension.  The backstay wires 
 runs to two turnbuckles on the transom.  The spreaders are only slightly 
 swept back but the rod shrouds run to a position just behind the mast.  One 
 runs to the top of the mast and the other part way up, both passing through 
 the same point on the lower spreader.  The top ones are extremely tight, with 
 no flex/sag on the leeward side when sailing upwind.  The lowers are a bit 
 less tight but still no sag.  There is a third rod, which I am forgetting 
 where it terminates on the mast, but presumably lower down.  Forestay is on a 
 Harken furler.  
 So how to proceed (or wait for the Rendezvous and get all the great minds 
 together for a tuning session!)
 1.  Should I disconnect the backstay before doing anything with the shrouds? 
 The car on the split stay can only go so high without running out of wire, so 
 even at its topmost position, it is putting some tension on the backstay.  I 
 can tie another line to it and let it run up further but it makes more sense 
 to me to remove them altogether or loosen the turnbuckles as much as possible.
 2.  Presumably, I would then loosen all the shrouds and then tighten the bolt 
 on the furler to bring the mast forward, then recheck rake after tightening 
 the shrouds somewhat?
 3. After adjusting rake, how would the tension of the backstay be adjusted?  
 Presumably minimal tension with the car at its topmost position?The 
 tightness of those turnbuckles is going to affect the amount of tension the 
 adjuster is able to generate, so that would seem an important adjustment, but 
 I have not seen any guide to how to set that.  
 4.  When to check the rake?  With the backstay loose/disconnected or in its 
 nominal highest position?  
 5. One thought I have had is that before doing any of the above actions, I 
 should recheck the rake with the backstay removed just to see if it makes any 
 significant difference.  I know they were removed to take the boat out of the 
 water last fall and again in the spring, so how the yard guys re-tensioned 
 them I have no idea and I have not further adjusted them.
 Thanks- Dave
   
 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT
 
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Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List mast tuning

2015-08-02 Thread Monty Schumpert via CnC-List
David,
Check out the article Rod Rigging -- Generic Tuning by Greg Cutter in the
Do It Yourself section of the CC Photo Album and Resource Center. I'm
going through the same process after re-stepping the mast on my 34+ this
spring.

Monty
Scandia
1991 CC 34+
Annapolis, MD

On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 11:59 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I took a good look at my furler, mast, shrouds and stays yesterday
 preparatory to trying to do some mast tuning.  I am unsure as to the best
 way of going about this process and could use some advice.
  I found that I was raked somewhere between 18 and 24 inches aft, which is
 much too far by all accounts, so I want to bring the mast back to 6-12
 inches.  I have read the guides, but it is the specifics of different
 mast/shroud/stay combinations is what I am unsure about.  It was more
 straightforward on my previous 34.   My mast has no adjustment possible at
 the base or through deck unlike my old one.  As near as I can tell, it is
 all done with shrouds and stays.  The backstay is a split wire with a
 pinching car that runs up and down to control backstay tension.  The
 backstay wires runs to two turnbuckles on the transom.  The spreaders are
 only slightly swept back but the rod shrouds run to a position just behind
 the mast.  One runs to the top of the mast and the other part way up, both
 passing through the same point on the lower spreader.  The top ones are
 extremely tight, with no flex/sag on the leeward side when sailing upwind.
 The lowers are a bit less tight but still no sag.  There is a third rod,
 which I am forgetting where it terminates on the mast, but presumably lower
 down.  Forestay is on a Harken furler.
 So how to proceed (or wait for the Rendezvous and get all the great minds
 together for a tuning session!)
 1.  Should I disconnect the backstay before doing anything with the
 shrouds? The car on the split stay can only go so high without running out
 of wire, so even at its topmost position, it is putting some tension on the
 backstay.  I can tie another line to it and let it run up further but it
 makes more sense to me to remove them altogether or loosen the turnbuckles
 as much as possible.
 2.  Presumably, I would then loosen all the shrouds and then tighten the
 bolt on the furler to bring the mast forward, then recheck rake after
 tightening the shrouds somewhat?
 3. After adjusting rake, how would the tension of the backstay be
 adjusted?  Presumably minimal tension with the car at its topmost position?
The tightness of those turnbuckles is going to affect the amount of
 tension the adjuster is able to generate, so that would seem an important
 adjustment, but I have not seen any guide to how to set that.
 4.  When to check the rake?  With the backstay loose/disconnected or in
 its nominal highest position?
 5. One thought I have had is that before doing any of the above actions, I
 should recheck the rake with the backstay removed just to see if it makes
 any significant difference.  I know they were removed to take the boat out
 of the water last fall and again in the spring, so how the yard guys
 re-tensioned them I have no idea and I have not further adjusted them.
 Thanks- Dave

 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List mast tuning

2015-07-31 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
David,

I'm not sure you can change the rake without shortening the headstay or
moving the foot.  I think it is usually shortening the headstay.  Why do
you want to change the the rake?  Too much weather helm?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 31, 2015 11:59 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 I took a good look at my furler, mast, shrouds and stays yesterday
 preparatory to trying to do some mast tuning.  I am unsure as to the best
 way of going about this process and could use some advice.
  I found that I was raked somewhere between 18 and 24 inches aft, which is
 much too far by all accounts, so I want to bring the mast back to 6-12
 inches.  I have read the guides, but it is the specifics of different
 mast/shroud/stay combinations is what I am unsure about.  It was more
 straightforward on my previous 34.   My mast has no adjustment possible at
 the base or through deck unlike my old one.  As near as I can tell, it is
 all done with shrouds and stays.  The backstay is a split wire with a
 pinching car that runs up and down to control backstay tension.  The
 backstay wires runs to two turnbuckles on the transom.  The spreaders are
 only slightly swept back but the rod shrouds run to a position just behind
 the mast.  One runs to the top of the mast and the other part way up, both
 passing through the same point on the lower spreader.  The top ones are
 extremely tight, with no flex/sag on the leeward side when sailing upwind.
 The lowers are a bit less tight but still no sag.  There is a third rod,
 which I am forgetting where it terminates on the mast, but presumably lower
 down.  Forestay is on a Harken furler.
 So how to proceed (or wait for the Rendezvous and get all the great minds
 together for a tuning session!)
 1.  Should I disconnect the backstay before doing anything with the
 shrouds? The car on the split stay can only go so high without running out
 of wire, so even at its topmost position, it is putting some tension on the
 backstay.  I can tie another line to it and let it run up further but it
 makes more sense to me to remove them altogether or loosen the turnbuckles
 as much as possible.
 2.  Presumably, I would then loosen all the shrouds and then tighten the
 bolt on the furler to bring the mast forward, then recheck rake after
 tightening the shrouds somewhat?
 3. After adjusting rake, how would the tension of the backstay be
 adjusted?  Presumably minimal tension with the car at its topmost position?
The tightness of those turnbuckles is going to affect the amount of
 tension the adjuster is able to generate, so that would seem an important
 adjustment, but I have not seen any guide to how to set that.
 4.  When to check the rake?  With the backstay loose/disconnected or in
 its nominal highest position?
 5. One thought I have had is that before doing any of the above actions, I
 should recheck the rake with the backstay removed just to see if it makes
 any significant difference.  I know they were removed to take the boat out
 of the water last fall and again in the spring, so how the yard guys
 re-tensioned them I have no idea and I have not further adjusted them.
 Thanks- Dave

 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT



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