Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
recycling. The integral switch doesn’t seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don’t see how a separate switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. My boat (34+) has a small collection area – maybe a litre of water in the bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Sam, The integral switches are “interesting”. Most of them spin the pump impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *“Midnight Mistress”* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. Anyone have any experience with these? I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet. sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta *From: *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent: *Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM *To: *'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Reply To: *Jake Brodersen *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Josh, The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age. I prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck… You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them together? Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *“Midnight Mistress”* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM *To:* CC List *Subject:* Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket. The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'. So this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge. Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion. Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
One additional thing that I do; remove my bilge pump and switch to above the floor boards during winter storage and flush the pump with a 50/50 mix of ethylene gycol and water and leave the bottom end of the pump submerged in the same mix...I think that helps to keep the pump in good shape for next season Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Hi Josh, I take it this is what you use? - Yes, seems to work well. Do you ever find that it runs non-stop? - Occasionally, I don't leave it on when I'm not on the boat. I am considering installing a 2nd larger pump higher up with a separate run of discharge hose with a float switch I can leave on all the time. The one I have now is under hosed (3/4) from the factory with a check valve as this pump will get down to the last 1/2 of water in the bilge. Does it ever get submerged, particularly the wires? - Yes Do you recall if the wires were tinned? - I think they AREN'T tinned. Ken H. S/V Salazar - CC 37/40XL Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia, Canada On 23 March 2015 at 07:06, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ken, I took a look. I take it this is what you use? Do you ever find that it runs non-stop? Does it ever get submerged, particularly the wires? Do you recall if the wires were tinned? Josh On Mar 23, 2015 5:55 AM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Josh, You do have another option. The Rule-Mate RM1100A will fit in your bilge. http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/RM500A_750A_1100A_SS_950-0595.pdf Ken H. On 23 March 2015 at 06:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The bildge in mine is pretty narrow and deep so the largest pump I can easily fit is a Rule 800 that is square. It fills the footprint of the well. There isn't a good place for the switch except for almost directly above the pump. It is a flipper style. 2 years ago I replaced the original (to me) Rule 800 with a Rule 500 w/rulematic controller and also kept the float/flipper switch. I also rewired everything. Frustrating though was that the new SUBMERSIBLE Rule 500 pump did not have tinned wires! And the gauge was less than desired at about 18awg. I read a lot about solder not being acceptable but don't trust crimps as much as solder. I used my best Electronic Technician's training from the Navy to solder all the pump's leads and used adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the connections. I also think I used 14awg. The flipper switch is wired so that even with the OFF-1-ALL-2 switch in OFF the flipper will still actuate the pump. The on/off switch for the pump is on the switch panel and wired such that ON actuate the rulematic sensor which will run the pump until no more water is in the bildge. It automatically senses that it is doing less work (less current) and then shuts off. After 2 minutes it tests by starting for a moment and measuring the current draw. If the pump is doing work (more current) then it runs until the water is gone and the cycle starts over again. So ON is really AUTO. Unfortunately I have found the pump running non-stop in ON so I have never really used the auto feature. I attempted to correct the back flow problem with a large check valve placed very close to the pump discharge. It still isn't perfect so I just turn it on and then turn it off while I'm there and let the float do it's job while I'm gone. This means that the pump stays submerged for a large majority of it's life because the flipper is mounted above the pump. I have considered using 2 pumps. The gusher 320 for getting to the deepest part of the bildge. And a larger 1000 or 1500gph Rule mounted above the sensor for the gusher. During normal operation the gusher would run in auto using a new level switch and keep the larger pump from becoming submerged. If something were to cause an increase in the water level then the larger pump would actuate and prevent floading/sinking. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 23, 2015 1:45 AM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level the integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical energy) pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, waiting for it to trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a backflow preventer slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than plumbing the discharge into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I am not sure how to stop the constant recycling. The integral switch doesn’t seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don’t see how a separate switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. My boat (34+) has a small collection area – maybe a litre of water in the bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Sam, The integral switches are “interesting”. Most of them spin the pump impeller at regular intervals
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM To: CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Since purchasing this Enterprise about 10 years ago, I’ve gone through several automatic bilge pumps. Either the motor fails, never stops running or the float switch gets jammed. I’ve tried both the float switch and the automatic versions. I liked the idea of an automatic, especially if you have worries about through-hulls or stuffing boxes and don’t want to see your boat become a liquid asset, but that gets replaced with worries on if the pump is working correctly or is not always working and draining your battery system. And then I thought back to when I had the 1978 CC 34 (the Enterprise-A). When I got on board, I did my usual pre-check of all systems which included checking the bilge. If I saw water, I turned the pump on. When I heard air-sucking noises, I turned it off. Easier. Much easier. So last year, I just got rid of the automatic. I get on board, I check, I pump. Honestly, I like it much better. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On Mar 23, 2015, at 12:35 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I replaced my troublesome automatic Rule pump with Johnson 750 or 1000 gph / Water Witch switch combo. ( https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html) Like yours. the way my sump is designed only the smaller pumps fit. The Rule pump had the stupid system that measures impeller resistance and with slightest amount of crap in the water, the impeller got fouled and made the pump run 24 / 7. The Water Witch is fool proof so far and the pump works fine. The only thing is: With the long run to the stern discharge the pump would not prime with the joker valve so I have to do without and a couple cups of water regurgitates in the sump after pumping.. The nice thing is with that sump design the rest of the bilge is bone dry and since we sail pretty often all year long, the water does not stay there long enough to smell. Eventually I'll get a little wet / dry vac to suck it up before we close the boat on Sunday night. Regards -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Thanks. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 11:13 AM To: Danny Haughey; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump On my 35/3 installed one of these: Whale Supersub Bilge Pump http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15042 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15042familyName=Whale+Supersub+Bilge+Pump familyName=Whale+Supersub+Bilge+Pump with a Johnson automatic switch. Had to clean the crud off the switch, but otherwise no problems. Your sump can't be any smaller! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On my Viking, I installed 2 whale gusher pumps in a locker and just ran house down into the bilge. I did instal one flart switch in the sump to run one of the pumps automatically. I really liked that setup. The pumps stayed high and dry and there was less stuff in the bilge. From my Android phone Original message From: David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 03/23/2015 1:04 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 'Dennis C.' capt...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM To: CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Ken, I took a look. I take it this is what you use? Do you ever find that it runs non-stop? Does it ever get submerged, particularly the wires? Do you recall if the wires were tinned? Josh On Mar 23, 2015 5:55 AM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Josh, You do have another option. The Rule-Mate RM1100A will fit in your bilge. http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/RM500A_750A_1100A_SS_950-0595.pdf Ken H. On 23 March 2015 at 06:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The bildge in mine is pretty narrow and deep so the largest pump I can easily fit is a Rule 800 that is square. It fills the footprint of the well. There isn't a good place for the switch except for almost directly above the pump. It is a flipper style. 2 years ago I replaced the original (to me) Rule 800 with a Rule 500 w/rulematic controller and also kept the float/flipper switch. I also rewired everything. Frustrating though was that the new SUBMERSIBLE Rule 500 pump did not have tinned wires! And the gauge was less than desired at about 18awg. I read a lot about solder not being acceptable but don't trust crimps as much as solder. I used my best Electronic Technician's training from the Navy to solder all the pump's leads and used adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the connections. I also think I used 14awg. The flipper switch is wired so that even with the OFF-1-ALL-2 switch in OFF the flipper will still actuate the pump. The on/off switch for the pump is on the switch panel and wired such that ON actuate the rulematic sensor which will run the pump until no more water is in the bildge. It automatically senses that it is doing less work (less current) and then shuts off. After 2 minutes it tests by starting for a moment and measuring the current draw. If the pump is doing work (more current) then it runs until the water is gone and the cycle starts over again. So ON is really AUTO. Unfortunately I have found the pump running non-stop in ON so I have never really used the auto feature. I attempted to correct the back flow problem with a large check valve placed very close to the pump discharge. It still isn't perfect so I just turn it on and then turn it off while I'm there and let the float do it's job while I'm gone. This means that the pump stays submerged for a large majority of it's life because the flipper is mounted above the pump. I have considered using 2 pumps. The gusher 320 for getting to the deepest part of the bildge. And a larger 1000 or 1500gph Rule mounted above the sensor for the gusher. During normal operation the gusher would run in auto using a new level switch and keep the larger pump from becoming submerged. If something were to cause an increase in the water level then the larger pump would actuate and prevent floading/sinking. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 23, 2015 1:45 AM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level the integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical energy) pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, waiting for it to trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a backflow preventer slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than plumbing the discharge into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I am not sure how to stop the constant recycling. The integral switch doesn't seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don't see how a separate switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. My boat (34+) has a small collection area - maybe a litre of water in the bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Sam, The integral switches are interesting. Most of them spin the pump impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. Anyone have any experience with these? I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Hi Josh, You do have another option. The Rule-Mate RM1100A will fit in your bilge. http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/files/RM500A_750A_1100A_SS_950-0595.pdf Ken H. On 23 March 2015 at 06:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The bildge in mine is pretty narrow and deep so the largest pump I can easily fit is a Rule 800 that is square. It fills the footprint of the well. There isn't a good place for the switch except for almost directly above the pump. It is a flipper style. 2 years ago I replaced the original (to me) Rule 800 with a Rule 500 w/rulematic controller and also kept the float/flipper switch. I also rewired everything. Frustrating though was that the new SUBMERSIBLE Rule 500 pump did not have tinned wires! And the gauge was less than desired at about 18awg. I read a lot about solder not being acceptable but don't trust crimps as much as solder. I used my best Electronic Technician's training from the Navy to solder all the pump's leads and used adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the connections. I also think I used 14awg. The flipper switch is wired so that even with the OFF-1-ALL-2 switch in OFF the flipper will still actuate the pump. The on/off switch for the pump is on the switch panel and wired such that ON actuate the rulematic sensor which will run the pump until no more water is in the bildge. It automatically senses that it is doing less work (less current) and then shuts off. After 2 minutes it tests by starting for a moment and measuring the current draw. If the pump is doing work (more current) then it runs until the water is gone and the cycle starts over again. So ON is really AUTO. Unfortunately I have found the pump running non-stop in ON so I have never really used the auto feature. I attempted to correct the back flow problem with a large check valve placed very close to the pump discharge. It still isn't perfect so I just turn it on and then turn it off while I'm there and let the float do it's job while I'm gone. This means that the pump stays submerged for a large majority of it's life because the flipper is mounted above the pump. I have considered using 2 pumps. The gusher 320 for getting to the deepest part of the bildge. And a larger 1000 or 1500gph Rule mounted above the sensor for the gusher. During normal operation the gusher would run in auto using a new level switch and keep the larger pump from becoming submerged. If something were to cause an increase in the water level then the larger pump would actuate and prevent floading/sinking. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 23, 2015 1:45 AM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level the integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical energy) pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, waiting for it to trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a backflow preventer slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than plumbing the discharge into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I am not sure how to stop the constant recycling. The integral switch doesn’t seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don’t see how a separate switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. My boat (34+) has a small collection area – maybe a litre of water in the bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Sam, The integral switches are “interesting”. Most of them spin the pump impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *“Midnight Mistress”* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. Anyone have any experience with these? I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet. sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta *From: *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent: *Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM *To: *'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Reply To: *Jake Brodersen *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Josh
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
The bildge in mine is pretty narrow and deep so the largest pump I can easily fit is a Rule 800 that is square. It fills the footprint of the well. There isn't a good place for the switch except for almost directly above the pump. It is a flipper style. 2 years ago I replaced the original (to me) Rule 800 with a Rule 500 w/rulematic controller and also kept the float/flipper switch. I also rewired everything. Frustrating though was that the new SUBMERSIBLE Rule 500 pump did not have tinned wires! And the gauge was less than desired at about 18awg. I read a lot about solder not being acceptable but don't trust crimps as much as solder. I used my best Electronic Technician's training from the Navy to solder all the pump's leads and used adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the connections. I also think I used 14awg. The flipper switch is wired so that even with the OFF-1-ALL-2 switch in OFF the flipper will still actuate the pump. The on/off switch for the pump is on the switch panel and wired such that ON actuate the rulematic sensor which will run the pump until no more water is in the bildge. It automatically senses that it is doing less work (less current) and then shuts off. After 2 minutes it tests by starting for a moment and measuring the current draw. If the pump is doing work (more current) then it runs until the water is gone and the cycle starts over again. So ON is really AUTO. Unfortunately I have found the pump running non-stop in ON so I have never really used the auto feature. I attempted to correct the back flow problem with a large check valve placed very close to the pump discharge. It still isn't perfect so I just turn it on and then turn it off while I'm there and let the float do it's job while I'm gone. This means that the pump stays submerged for a large majority of it's life because the flipper is mounted above the pump. I have considered using 2 pumps. The gusher 320 for getting to the deepest part of the bildge. And a larger 1000 or 1500gph Rule mounted above the sensor for the gusher. During normal operation the gusher would run in auto using a new level switch and keep the larger pump from becoming submerged. If something were to cause an increase in the water level then the larger pump would actuate and prevent floading/sinking. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 23, 2015 1:45 AM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I find that since there is a lift of a few feet to the discharge level the integral switch causes the pump to spend its time (and my electrical energy) pumping the same litre or so of water up the discharge hose, waiting for it to trickle back, repumping it again, and so on. Inserting a backflow preventer slows the process somewhat but not entirely. Other than plumbing the discharge into the galley drain so the outflow is minimized I am not sure how to stop the constant recycling. The integral switch doesn't seem to have any option for adjustment and I am don't see how a separate switch would be any different unless it was placed higher than the pump. My boat (34+) has a small collection area - maybe a litre of water in the bilge. The only source of outside water is rain down the mast, so this is a periodic problem. Any solutions or suggestions? *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 6:27 PM *To:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Sam, The integral switches are interesting. Most of them spin the pump impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton VA* *From:* sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] *Sent:* Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. Anyone have any experience with these? I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet. sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta *From: *Jake Brodersen via CnC-List *Sent: *Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM *To: *'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Reply To: *Jake Brodersen *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Josh, The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat's age. I prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck... You're still going to have the bilge switch
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Try an in-line self-priming pump and run the pick up into your bilge sump. (similar to the whale gusher but electric). I had one on my previous boat and it gave me no trouble at all. Best practice is to connect to limit the amount of distance between the pick-up and thru-hull discharge. Mine went to the galley sink drain (with a siphon loop) so the total distance was under 4 feet. That also limits the head (lift). Advantages are you can size the pump for the max that will handle the size of your thru-hull, you can mount it in a convenient place and it isn’t submerged. Put the float switch right next to your pickup. Also, if the pick-up is well placed you can just about suck the bilge dry with the switch in ON. That was the only pump I didn’t replace in the 6 years I owned my previous boat. They cost a little more but well worth it. Burt (Skip) Stratton 1974 CC 33-3/4 tonner Narragansett Bay, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Blair via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 1:05 PM To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM To: CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Edd: I had the same problem with bilge pump float switches failing. It turned out to be the old un-tinned wire. Every time I replaced a switch, it would work for awhile until the un-tinned wires got corroded near the most recent splice. Since I changed out this wiring to good tinned wire, I haven't had a single problem and the Rule 1500 has been the same pump all along. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Mar 23, 2015, at 12:55 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Since purchasing this Enterprise about 10 years ago, I’ve gone through several automatic bilge pumps. Either the motor fails, never stops running or the float switch gets jammed. I’ve tried both the float switch and the automatic versions. I liked the idea of an automatic, especially if you have worries about through-hulls or stuffing boxes and don’t want to see your boat become a liquid asset, but that gets replaced with worries on if the pump is working correctly or is not always working and draining your battery system. And then I thought back to when I had the 1978 CC 34 (the Enterprise-A). When I got on board, I did my usual pre-check of all systems which included checking the bilge. If I saw water, I turned the pump on. When I heard air-sucking noises, I turned it off. Easier. Much easier. So last year, I just got rid of the automatic. I get on board, I check, I pump. Honestly, I like it much better. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log PastedGraphic-1.tiff On Mar 23, 2015, at 12:35 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I replaced my troublesome automatic Rule pump with Johnson 750 or 1000 gph / Water Witch switch combo. ( https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html) Like yours. the way my sump is designed only the smaller pumps fit. The Rule pump had the stupid system that measures impeller resistance and with slightest amount of crap in the water, the impeller got fouled and made the pump run 24 / 7. The Water Witch is fool proof so far and the pump works fine. The only thing is: With the long run to the stern discharge the pump would not prime with the joker valve so I have to do without and a couple cups of water regurgitates in the sump after pumping.. The nice thing is with that sump design the rest of the bilge is bone dry and since we sail pretty often all year long, the water does not stay there long enough to smell. Eventually I'll get a little wet / dry vac to suck it up before we close the boat on Sunday night. Regards -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
I replaced my troublesome automatic Rule pump with Johnson 750 or 1000 gph / Water Witch switch combo. ( https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html ) Like yours. the way my sump is designed only the smaller pumps fit. The Rule pump had the stupid system that measures impeller resistance and with slightest amount of crap in the water, the impeller got fouled and made the pump run 24 / 7. The Water Witch is fool proof so far and the pump works fine. The only thing is: With the long run to the stern discharge the pump would not prime with the joker valve so I have to do without and a couple cups of water regurgitates in the sump after pumping.. The nice thing is with that sump design the rest of the bilge is bone dry and since we sail pretty often all year long, the water does not stay there long enough to smell. Eventually I'll get a little wet / dry vac to suck it up before we close the boat on Sunday night. Regards -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
David: Been following these bilge threads...I don't know what model bilge pump and float switch I have on the boat...will go to the boat maybe this week...I will checkmy bilge is also very narrow and there is a pump and float switch anchored at its lowest pointpump can be operated manually or by the float switch or shut off completely via a master control switch we placed near the main electrical panel. We initially installed a 'one way valve' in the discharge line to prevent backflow but it didn'tthe water always leaks back.removed it from the discharge lineno regrets. In addition, I found that sometimes the 'one way valve' got fouled by the outflow and would not open completely..it was almost as sensitive to fouling as the know meter impeller. Just one person's experience. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-23 2:04 PM, David Blair via CnC-List wrote: Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM *To:* CnClist *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
On my Viking, I installed 2 whale gusher pumps in a locker and just ran house down into the bilge. I did instal one flart switch in the sump to run one of the pumps automatically. I really liked that setup. The pumps stayed high and dry and there was less stuff in the bilge. From my Android phone Original message From: David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 03/23/2015 1:04 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 'Dennis C.' capt...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM To: CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
On my 35/3 installed one of these: Whale Supersub Bilge Pump http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15042familyName=Whale+Supersub+Bilge+Pump with a Johnson automatic switch. Had to clean the crud off the switch, but otherwise no problems. Your sump can't be any smaller! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On my Viking, I installed 2 whale gusher pumps in a locker and just ran house down into the bilge. I did instal one flart switch in the sump to run one of the pumps automatically. I really liked that setup. The pumps stayed high and dry and there was less stuff in the bilge. From my Android phone Original message From: David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 03/23/2015 1:04 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 'Dennis C.' capt...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM *To:* CnClist *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Thoughts on bilge pumps. First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me nuts. Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed. How I wire a bilge pump. First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and protected location. Power it from one of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery switch. I usually connect it to the house bank. If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Whale Gusher as in the foot pedal / level manual pump? If you meant Whale Gulpher then +1 for those. When I rebuilt the mast step I put the remote pickup at the low spot and an electronic switch. Good so far. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2015 14:05:56 -0400 From: Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com To: dblair...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com, capt...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Message-ID: 7orp12qnj8oahh4u3vd9v46i.1427130574...@email.android.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 On my Viking, I installed 2 whale gusher pumps in a locker and just ran house down into the bilge. ?I did instal one flart switch in the sump to run one of the pumps automatically. ?I really liked that setup. ?The pumps stayed high and dry and there was less stuff in the bilge. From my Android phone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Yep, you're right, I misspoke in one of the first emails. I meant whale gulper 320. The electric one without any smart sensors. Josh On Mar 23, 2015 8:03 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Whale Gusher as in the foot pedal / level manual pump? If you meant Whale Gulpher then +1 for those. When I rebuilt the mast step I put the remote pickup at the low spot and an electronic switch. Good so far. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2015 14:05:56 -0400 From: Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com To: dblair...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com, capt...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Message-ID: 7orp12qnj8oahh4u3vd9v46i.1427130574...@email.android.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 On my Viking, I installed 2 whale gusher pumps in a locker and just ran house down into the bilge. ?I did instal one flart switch in the sump to run one of the pumps automatically. ?I really liked that setup. ?The pumps stayed high and dry and there was less stuff in the bilge. From my Android phone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Josh, The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat's age. I prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck. You're still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them together? Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM To: CC List Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket. The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'. So this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge. Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion. Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Sam, The integral switches are “interesting”. Most of them spin the pump impeller at regular intervals. If they encounter resistance, they continue to run the pump until less resistance is encountered. There is nothing wrong with this approach, unless you can hear the pump from your bunk. I prefer pumps to be actuated by a switch than senses a need for the pump to run. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com [mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump What about those solid state switches that are integral with the pump. Anyone have any experience with these? I've got a Whale pump like this, but haven't got around to installing it yet. sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 3:51 PM To: 'Josh Muckley'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: Jake Brodersen Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Josh, The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age. I prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck… You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them together? Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM To: CC List Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket. The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'. So this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge. Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion. Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump
Regardless of what pump you choose rewire. You don’t want stray current corrosion on your boat. From: robert via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 4:33 PM To: Jake Brodersen ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump Jake: Have the same arrangement as you havebilge pump and switch side by side at the lowest possible point in the bilgeworks fineand logical! Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-22 6:50 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote: Josh, The wiring is certainly suspect at this point in the boat’s age. I prefer to mount the pump low in the bilge because most of them push water better than pulling it uphill. Putting it another way, they blow better than they suck… You’re still going to have the bilge switch in the bilge, why not locate them together? Mine are side-by-side, which makes for shorter wiring runs. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 5:31 PM To: CC List Subject: Stus-List 37+ Bildge pump The bildge pump seems to have stopped working, again! I suspect that it has to do with some of the older wiring becoming corroded and causing a higher resistance. I had this happen before. I'm planning on replacing the Rule 500 with a Whale Gulper 320. I recognize that the capacity is probably on the low side but compared to zero, 320 is a lot and it beats a bucket. The gusher is a single diaphragm pump, can pass debris and has a rated suction lift of 10'. So this means I can mount the pump above the water and have the suction hose run into the deepest and most confined space of the bildge. Hopefully getting the pump out of the water will help prevent corrosion. Anybody have any thoughts or personal learnings? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
