Re: Stus-List Engine clean-up
Bill, Thanks for the video link. It looks well edited, full of info and worth while. I'll watch the whole thing tonight. Can't watch it now, gotta get back to work. Chuck S > On June 18, 2019 at 4:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I don't know how I stumbled upon it, but I came across a YouTube Video of a > young fellow doing a demonstration of engine detailing, and to my surprise, I > watched all of it. He took this old Camry beater and made that engine look > like it came off the showroom floor. Well, almost. > > Worth a watch. > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRSoRkM8GcM > > > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > > Charley, > Use paint remover from Lowes (liquid) and Auto Zone (spray can). Get small > tooth brush-like wire brushes, sander/wire brush for drill, scraping tools > (putty knife, screwdriver, etc). Use lacquer thinner to clean that mess, let > dry. Get pampers, yes baby diapers, to lay under, around, above, wherever, > the engine to catch and soak up the mess, (they’re useful to catch dripping > oil too, don’t ask how I know). Blue tape to mask miscellaneous parts, name > plate, hoses, wiring. Enjoy that ENTIRE day, second day prime what needs it > then paint until your hearts content. > I did that routine in January, worked really well, made it up as I went, > secret recipe. Three ol buds came by at separate times and each asked “IS > THAT A NEW MOTOR?” Made me feel better, but what did they say to themselves > before. > > Jason > C 29 I > Mississippi > > > > > > Parts of my Beta 28 diesel engine have serious paint/rust scaling issues > > that I would like to remove before cleaning and spray painting the engine. > > Unfortunately, most of this is in/around the front of the engine (forward > > facing) cooling lines, alternator, etc. which is impossible to reach with a > > wire brush, either manual or on the end of a?power drill.?If I had?one with > > enough cfm, I would probably soda-blast the stuff away with an air > > compressor blaster. ?One mechanic suggested the only real way to do this is > > to remove the engine for soda-blasting?which is costly?and time > > consuming.??I might be able to do it with some sort of flexible shaft that > > could be driven by a power drill--any kind of regular power drill with a > > brush?is just too bulky to get close to/behind various engine pieces. > > ?OTOH, I could just try a high pressure water spray after covering up the > > alternator and ignition panel to motor wiring connector. ?Any suggestions > > from the list on how such a clean-up might be done??Charlie Nelson1995 C > > 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom??? > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Engine clean-up
I don't know how I stumbled upon it, but I came across a YouTube Video of a young fellow doing a demonstration of engine detailing, and to my surprise, I watched all of it. He took this old Camry beater and made that engine look like it came off the showroom floor. Well, almost. Worth a watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRSoRkM8GcM Bill Coleman Erie PA Charley, Use paint remover from Lowes (liquid) and Auto Zone (spray can). Get small tooth brush-like wire brushes, sander/wire brush for drill, scraping tools (putty knife, screwdriver, etc). Use lacquer thinner to clean that mess, let dry. Get pampers, yes baby diapers, to lay under, around, above, wherever, the engine to catch and soak up the mess, (they’re useful to catch dripping oil too, don’t ask how I know). Blue tape to mask miscellaneous parts, name plate, hoses, wiring. Enjoy that ENTIRE day, second day prime what needs it then paint until your hearts content. I did that routine in January, worked really well, made it up as I went, secret recipe. Three ol buds came by at separate times and each asked “IS THAT A NEW MOTOR?” Made me feel better, but what did they say to themselves before. Jason C 29 I Mississippi > > Parts of my Beta 28 diesel engine have serious paint/rust scaling issues that > I would like to remove before cleaning and spray painting the engine. > Unfortunately, most of this is in/around the front of the engine (forward > facing) cooling lines, alternator, etc. which is impossible to reach with a > wire brush, either manual or on the end of a?power drill.?If I had?one with > enough cfm, I would probably soda-blast the stuff away with an air compressor > blaster. ?One mechanic suggested the only real way to do this is to remove > the engine for soda-blasting?which is costly?and time consuming.??I might be > able to do it with some sort of flexible shaft that could be driven by a > power drill--any kind of regular power drill with a brush?is just too bulky > to get close to/behind various engine pieces. ?OTOH, I could just try a high > pressure water spray after covering up the alternator and ignition panel to > motor wiring connector. ?Any suggestions from the list on how such a clean-up > might be done??Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom??? ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Engine clean-up
Charley, Use paint remover from Lowes (liquid) and Auto Zone (spray can). Get small tooth brush-like wire brushes, sander/wire brush for drill, scraping tools (putty knife, screwdriver, etc). Use lacquer thinner to clean that mess, let dry. Get pampers, yes baby diapers, to lay under, around, above, wherever, the engine to catch and soak up the mess, (they’re useful to catch dripping oil too, don’t ask how I know). Blue tape to mask miscellaneous parts, name plate, hoses, wiring. Enjoy that ENTIRE day, second day prime what needs it then paint until your hearts content. I did that routine in January, worked really well, made it up as I went, secret recipe. Three ol buds came by at separate times and each asked “IS THAT A NEW MOTOR?” Made me feel better, but what did they say to themselves before. Jason C 29 I Mississippi Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 16, 2019, at 8:02 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to >cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Worn stanchion base sockets (T Sutton) > 2. Engine clean-up (cenel...@aol.com) > 3. Jib Halyard Length for a 37+? (Edd Schillay) > 4. Re: Jib Halyard Length for a 37+? (Ken Heaton) > 5. Re: Worn stanchion base sockets (John Conklin) > 6. Re: Jib Halyard Length for a 37+? (Marek Dziedzic) > 7. Re: Worn stanchion base sockets (Adrian Humphreys) > 8. Re: Jib Halyard Length for a 37+? (Bruce Whitmore) > > > -- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 12:01:29 -0400 > From: "T Sutton" > To: > Subject: Re: Stus-List Worn stanchion base sockets > Message-ID: <780D347EB7CF4B12861CACFDDB062486@TomSPC> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; >reply-type=original > > FWIW my stanchions come off in the fall to put the winter cover on and when > I was putting them back on I noticed there were two holes for the set screw > and a big dollop of what seemed like the sealant they used to seal the hull > and deck, in the bases. I pulled out the sealant and the stanchions would > sink a little deeper in the base and the set screw now goes into the upper > hole. The stanchions are much more solid in the bases but oddly the life > lines are much tighter now. It's almost like they raised the stanchions a > centimeter or so to make the life lines fit better. Hmmm > > Tom S > > C 33 Mk II K/CB > Port Elgin, ON > > -Original Message- > From: Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 6:16 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Adrian Humphreys > Subject: Re: Stus-List Worn stanchion base sockets > > I followed Mike and Bill's advice. > > 85 cents for a 2 litre bottle of soda pop, > poured out the beverage, > cut the bottle into 1-7/8 x 3 inch strips (notched for the set screw), > sleeved the sockets (lubed with dish soap), > replaced the stanchions. > > Eh voila! > > Stanchions are tight and the admiral feels safe again. > > Thanks! > > Adrian Humphreys > Epilogue, Rockport ME > C 33-2 > adri...@telamontech.com > > > > >> On Apr 2, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> The stanchions are loose in the worn sockets of the plastic stanchion >> bases. >> >> Before I order eight new ones, I'm wondering if anyone has tried filling >> the socket with epoxy and either setting the stanchion in the wet epoxy, >> or letting the epoxy set and re-drilling for the stanchion? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Adrian Humphreys >> Epilogue, Rockport ME >> C 33-2 >> adri...@telamontech.com >> >> >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > > > _______ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatl
Stus-List Engine clean-up
Parts of my Beta 28 diesel engine have serious paint/rust scaling issues that I would like to remove before cleaning and spray painting the engine. Unfortunately, most of this is in/around the front of the engine (forward facing) cooling lines, alternator, etc. which is impossible to reach with a wire brush, either manual or on the end of a power drill. If I had one with enough cfm, I would probably soda-blast the stuff away with an air compressor blaster. One mechanic suggested the only real way to do this is to remove the engine for soda-blasting which is costly and time consuming. I might be able to do it with some sort of flexible shaft that could be driven by a power drill--any kind of regular power drill with a brush is just too bulky to get close to/behind various engine pieces. OTOH, I could just try a high pressure water spray after covering up the alternator and ignition panel to motor wiring connector. Any suggestions from the list on how such a clean-up might be done? Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
