Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

As to another comment about buying a smaller boat, We had a C 27 MKIII in 
Chicago for15 years.  Loved that boat but it was too expensive to ship it to 
Florida when we moved and mamma wanted a bigger boat.  Also,  A/C is a 
requirement down here if you're going to be in a harbor.  So, we got the 
37/40+.  Everything is more expensive and all the additional systems add to the 
repair and upkeep.  And, of course a bigger boat can add to the stress when the 
wind pipes up.   If the smaller boat can fill your needs, grab a smaller C 
that fits your budget, buy it in excellent condition, pay a little more to get 
it, and spend your time sailing it and not fixing it.   Bruce Whitmore Sent 
from Samsung tablet.s
null___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

For me, I have found a piece of natural sponge to work best. Even when we are 
washing the deck you can see it pulling water off the deck and over the side 
without leaving black streaks down the hull.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 
37/40+"Astralis "Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

No wonder you have green water on the deck. Your boat is sitting in 
green water !


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Russ - no worries, I'm not obsessing about it. Rather, I am just trying to
learn when I encounter things I don't quite understand or which don't seem
right. Whether I get this boat or not, the C 35 will remain on my short
list, so any knowledge I can gain will be worthwhile. I continue to look at
other boats, like the Niagara 35 last week, but most of them have been
eliminated for various reasons. A few are still on the maybe list (Ericson
30+ for around 20K is one). Yes, I could just settle for a 27-30' boat for
around $10K, which is the place I was in a few months ago, but after
spending nearly a year on this search, I am less inclined to repeat the
process as we outgrow the smaller boat. That said, at least we can be
sailing while still keeping eyes open for the right boat, so if nothing
materializes soon, we'll probably go with something like an Ericson 29 for
around $10K. I've ruled out the Catalina 27 (decks are too narrow going
forward), but might consider other 27s (C, Ericson, etc); I just haven't
been aboard many to know if they are suitable.
There is a decent looking C 29 in Ladysmith with a for sale sign on it,
but the owner doesn't return calls, so I assume it's no longer for sale.

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 9:22 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Shawn, Buddy, Bro.
>
> You need to stop obsessing about this boat.
>
> Looking at boats for less than 20,000 and expecting 50,000 dollar results.
> Give it up.
>
> This toe rail thing is a non-issue. *Sweet *had a discontinuous toe rail
> from the factory. There is a joint just abaft the shrouds. The toe rail
> does nothing for hull integrity. It is there for hull/deck bolting and a
> nice place to hang gear from. If you let the puddles sit long enough to go
> green in the winter it simply means you don't love your boat enough. This
> fix is easy enough with Devcon, some aluminum flatbar and a bit of black
> paint, if you wish.
>
> The prop shaft overhang is ridiculous (as best described previuosly), so
> cut it down to a reasonable length for a few hundred bucks or use it until
> repairs are needed and then deal with it.
>
> As a friend I suggest you start seriously looking at a much smaller boat
> and move up in size a bit later.
>
> Kindest regards, Russ
> ex-* Sweet*, 35 mk-1
>
>
> At 06:45 PM 4/13/2019, you wrote:
>
> Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to
> inspect the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner
> cut a notch in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both
> inside and outside to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some
> boats where this is part of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds
> reasonable, except it will become a green slimy worm after a while if not
> cleaned... :)
>
> On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two
> different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical
> except the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per
> foot to clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing
> is it?  It seems to me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that
> nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe
> Rail on the boat wile assembling it.
>
> Have another look.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.Â
>
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
> drain.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to 

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I use a wick – yes it becomes pretty ugly after a while. For most of our boats, 
the toe rails are in two pieces – each around 15 feet long (on my 30 at least). 
There is a seam where they meet, but it is not at the lowest place on the deck. 
A piece of unused halyard or sheet laid in the low spot and then run through 
one of the holes in the rail will wick almost all the water out. Dennis’ 
webbing is more elegant.

 

After having part of my rail off the boat, I don’t see why you could not put a 
hole in the rail – above the flat part to let the excess water out.

 

Gary Nylander - 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2019 9:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

 

Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to inspect 
the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner cut a notch 
in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and outside 
to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some boats where this is part 
of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds reasonable, except it will 
become a green slimy worm after a while if not cleaned... :)

 

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two 
different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical except 
the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per foot to clip 
snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is it?  It seems to 
me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that nicks the deck and the 
hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile 
assembling it.

 

Have another look.

 

Ken H.

 

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 

 

While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly hack 
job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe rail or 
similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to drain.

 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Shawn, Buddy, Bro.

You need to stop obsessing about this boat.

Looking at boats for less than 20,000 and 
expecting 50,000 dollar results. Give it up.


This toe rail thing is a non-issue. Sweet had a 
discontinuous toe rail from the factory. There is 
a joint just abaft the shrouds. The toe rail does 
nothing for hull integrity. It is there for 
hull/deck bolting and a nice place to hang gear 
from. If you let the puddles sit long enough to 
go green in the winter it simply means you don't 
love your boat enough. This fix is easy enough 
with Devcon, some aluminum flatbar and a bit of black paint, if you wish.


The prop shaft overhang is ridiculous (as best 
described previuosly), so cut it down to a 
reasonable length for a few hundred bucks or use 
it until repairs are needed and then deal with it.


As a friend I suggest you start seriously looking 
at a much smaller boat and move up in size a bit later.


Kindest regards, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 06:45 PM 4/13/2019, you wrote:
Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on 
the deck. I will have to inspect the photo I 
took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would 
sooner cut a notch in the glass below the toe 
rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and 
outside to allow water to drain under the rail. 
I've seen some boats where this is part of the 
deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds 
reasonable, except it will become a green slimy 
worm after a while if not cleaned... :)


On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the 
Toe Rail extrusion as two different toe rails 
are used.  The two different Toe Rails are 
identical except the forward section has twice 
as many of the holes in the side per foot to 
clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't 
what you're seeing is it?  It seems to me on my 
friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that 
nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, 
almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile assembling it.


Have another look.

Ken H.

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something 
quite alarming: it appears that in an effort to 
allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to 
cut a small section of the toerail out, about 
1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. saw. I 
could see where the saw blade nicked the deck 
slightly below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.Â


While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and 
quite a difficult hack to reverse (I think the 
toerails are continuous), it also got me 
wondering how others have solved this problem. 
In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was 
the reason for this ugly hack job. I suppose one 
could hide it by attaching a short section of 
toe rail or similar material on top of the cut, 
while still allowing water to drain.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

Stop over thinking it.  Buy a Catalina 27 and learn to sail, then you can be 
more comfortable with a C  

Yes some people have cut a small slit for the water on the deck, while the rest 
of us just wick the moisture off.  We still get a green deck with the pollen, 
mold and slime in the Spring.  If you were sailing the C 35 in serious 
conditions, over 34kts with puffs to 50, you would appreciate how well the boat 
handles, and likely notice that 3-6” of water flowing down the boat magically 
sweeps off the deck just before it gets to you.  What a thoughtful design. . .

Buy the boat, Lee

 
> On Apr 13, 2019, at 1:21 07PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
> that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
> small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
> saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
> also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 
> 
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly 
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe 
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to 
> drain.
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Use the wick and save your toe rail

Jack Fitzgerald 
Savannah GA USA
+912.441.2296
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 13, 2019, at 9:45 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to 
> inspect the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner cut 
> a notch in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and 
> outside to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some boats where 
> this is part of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds reasonable, 
> except it will become a green slimy worm after a while if not cleaned... :)
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two 
>> different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical 
>> except the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per 
>> foot to clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is 
>> it?  It seems to me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that 
>> nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe 
>> Rail on the boat wile assembling it.
>> 
>> Have another look.
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>>> On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
>>> that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
>>> small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or 
>>> recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, 
>>> and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 
>>> 
>>> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
>>> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
>>> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
>>> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly 
>>> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe 
>>> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to 
>>> drain.
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Shawn Wright
>>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to
inspect the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner
cut a notch in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both
inside and outside to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some
boats where this is part of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds
reasonable, except it will become a green slimy worm after a while if not
cleaned... :)

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two
> different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical
> except the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per
> foot to clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is
> it?  It seems to me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that
> nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe
> Rail on the boat wile assembling it.
>
> Have another look.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
>> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
>> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
>> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
>> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.
>>
>> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
>> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
>> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
>> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
>> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
>> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
>> drain.
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bad, bad, idea to cut or drill the toe rail.  Most of us use a wick.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ygWJRGIo4RElksRjcxypUq_Q7bzNMfPJ

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TR-yYssVDIykl5ZgLgro3D9zw20iiQ85

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 3:22 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.
>
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
> drain.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I have a similar issue on my 37 the water drain groove and scuppers are always 
full because the drain is below the waterline. The low spot along toe rail is 
about 2-3 ft  in front of the scupper so water sits here and also in the groove 
leading to the scupper. I am so tempted to drill a small hole right there at 
the low point is this a real no no ? if I just drill through the toe rail even 
1/4 quarter-inch maybe ? not the bottom part, just the lowest part of the side 
of rail to minimize puddle?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Apr 13, 2019, at 5:35 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two 
different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical except 
the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per foot to clip 
snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is it?  It seems to 
me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that nicks the deck and the 
hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile 
assembling it.

Have another look.

Ken H.

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.

While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly hack 
job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe rail or 
similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to drain.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C36f4ee16b55c4504692b08d6c058108a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636907881793545881sdata=NRHxFeov8CjppApuw7BPwolJC6%2FrFcDDWuT2njEzPxM%3Dreserved=0

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two
different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical
except the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per
foot to clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is
it?  It seems to me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that
nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe
Rail on the boat wile assembling it.

Have another look.

Ken H.

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.
>
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
> drain.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Lots of people including myself have used various wicking mechanisms to
draw the water away from the low points.  Old halyard or sponge threaded
through the toe rail are popular options.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019, 4:22 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.
>
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
> drain.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 5:22 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.
>
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
> drain.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears
that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a
small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or
recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below,
and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.

While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
drain.

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray