Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-15 Thread Peter Fell via CnC-List
By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive pair of 
ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals, Canadian Tire has 
them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale price of $29.99 is good, 
compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80 – $100. 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU

I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to the $30 
no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ... which has 
worked flawlessly.  Much, much better tool than those cheap flat steel 
crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get a good 
crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
CC 27 MkIII

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM
To: Jim Watts ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

It is missing the vial of weasel sweat.  Otherwise good.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

  Here's my wiring diagram. 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg



  Jim Watts
  Paradigm Shift
  CC 35 Mk III
  Victoria, BC


  On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the 
less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, 
especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches 
or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be 
problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.  

“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities 
such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a 
few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the 
reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind. 

The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main 
panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.

Just a few thoughts…


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.






On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking 
weatherproof here)  one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the 
other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck 
fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up 
one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it 
from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel 
to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot 
and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, 
although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could 
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when 
not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in 
connection.

In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible 
... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I 
plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine 
gauge panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of 
those are in the standard CC panel.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
CC 27 MkIII



From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Alex Giannelia 
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an 
appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were 
planning that already. 
Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

  My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 
switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.

  The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been 
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric 
motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house 
bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker 
which  may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and 
two VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 
instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.

  The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move

Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-15 Thread Dan Utinske via CnC-List
Highly recommend the Daniels Crimping Tool.  I am by trade and aircraft
electrician and this is the tool I use to do my splice/crimping.  I also
use environmental crimpers which are a bit more expensive and require a
heat gun to heat shrink the weatherproof sleeve.
Daniels DMC HX4 M22520/5-01 Crimping Tool

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Daniels-DMC-HX4-M22520-5-01-Crimping-Tool-/371304440700?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item567378237c

On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 9:39 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 This type of crimper is available all over amazon.  I've been satisfied
 with mine.  They're not perfect (so make sure you give the lug a good pull)
 but they sure beat the cheap single plate style.

 Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ynPlvb0CN2Y01

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 On Apr 15, 2015 12:21 PM, Lee via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Peter,I would like to purchase  a set of c/t crimping pliers but I live
 in the US and I do not see any mention of shipping on their  C/T s web
 site. Any idea's oot
 there?
 Thanks Lee  C+C 35-3 C/B LI NY


 -Original Message-
 From: Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Apr 15, 2015 9:36 am
 Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

By the way, if any Canucks out there are looking for an inexpensive
 pair of ratcheting crimpers for 10-22 AWG insulated wire terminals,
 Canadian Tire has them on sale this week for $10.50! Even the non-sale
 price of $29.99 is good, compared to, for example, the Ancor version at $80
 – $100.


 http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/20-10-ratcheting-crimper-0207568p.html#.VS5mNU10zIU

  I have to say I haven’t tried these, but they look almost identical to
 the $30 no-name set I picked up from Princess Auto about 3 years ago ...
 which has worked flawlessly.  Much, much better tool than those cheap flat
 steel crimper-strippers you typically see that are almost impossible to get
 a good crimp without ripping the insulation on the terminals.

  Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 Cygnet
 CC 27 MkIII

  *From:* Graham Collins via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2015 5:29 PM
  *To:* Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

  It is missing the vial of weasel sweat.  Otherwise good.

 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11

  On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

  Here's my wiring diagram.
 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg


  Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

  On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the
 less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better,
 especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary
 switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to
 be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.

  “Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities
 such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and
 saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth
 compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better
 to my mind.

  The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the
 main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.

  Just a few thoughts…

   Rich Knowles
  Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 For sale in Halifax, NS.





  On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types
 (talking weatherproof here)  one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types)
 built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need
 to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse
 individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined
 switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and
 fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds
 to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized
 fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my chartplotter is
 switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse
 block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want
 to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in connection.

  In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as
 possible ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For
 example, I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in
 the engine gauge panel for the compass light and the blower

Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-13 Thread Jim Watts via CnC-List
Here's my wiring diagram.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the
 less complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better,
 especially in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary
 switches or electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to
 be problematic much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin.

 “Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities
 such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and
 saving a few steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth
 compromising the reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better
 to my mind.

 The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main
 panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.

 Just a few thoughts…

 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 For sale in Halifax, NS.





 On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types
 (talking weatherproof here)  one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types)
 built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need
 to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse
 individual circuits. I picked up one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined
 switch/fuse panels and will feed to it from my main DC panel (switched and
 fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds
 to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper sized
 fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my chartplotter is
 switched right at the unit and so otherwise could just be fed off a fuse
 block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when not in use) so I want
 to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in connection.

 In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible
 ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example,
 I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the
 engine gauge panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for
 both of those are in the standard CC panel.

 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 Cygnet
 CC 27 MkIII



  *From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

 Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an
 appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you
 were planning that already.
 Ed
 On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

 My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the
 companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15
 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off
 switch.

 The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been
 replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric
 motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the
 house bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging
 locker which  may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a
 stereo and two VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new
 condition WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.

 The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the
 locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel
 (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.

 So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be
 switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine
 installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for
 whatever.

 Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the
 cabin panel.

 Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to
 the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

 Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

 Alex Giannelia
 CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
 TORONTO, Ontario

 a...@airsensing.com


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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-10 Thread Bill Hoyne via CnC-List
Hi Alex

I re-did my panel, batteries, charger… last year . I have a few pictures on 
my phone I can send you if you want to see what I did.
Cheers,

Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 CC35 MkII
in Victoria,BC



 On Apr 10, 2015, at 12:05 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Thanks Russ, good idea, on the LED indicators.
  
 The anchor and deck light switches were meant to be on the sub panel where 
 the old engine switches and gauges were.  “red” cabin switches, I guess for 
 night entry from cockpit to cabin, hmmm hadn’t thought about that.
  
 Thanks,
  
 Alex
  
 Alex Giannelia
 a...@airsensing.com mailto:a...@airsensing.com
 +1 (416) 203-9858 Office
 +1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
 www.airsensing.com http://www.airsensing.com/
  
 From: Russ  Melody [mailto:russ...@telus.net mailto:russ...@telus.net] 
 Sent: April-08-15 11:26 PM
 To: Alex Giannelia; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
  
 
 Hi Alex,
 
 That sounds like a good plan. I will suggest that you light a small indicator 
 lamp on the interior panel connected to the on switch of each exterior 
 panel switch (exterior, instrument  navigation) so when you snuggle down in 
 an anchorage you can see if you unintentionally left an exterior light 
 burning.
 
 Where is the anchor light, deck light and a red cabin light switches going to 
 be? Unconventional, but there is an argument to have them all outside too.
 
 Dammit, precious little starts to get complicated :)
 
 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 
 
 At 05:39 PM 08/04/2015, you wrote:
 
 So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy
 
 My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
 companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 
 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off 
 switch.
 
 The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced 
 by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor 
 charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. 
 On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which  
 may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two 
 VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 
 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.
 
 The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the 
 locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel 
 (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.
 
 So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be 
 switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine installer 
 installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.
 
 Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the 
 cabin panel.
 
 Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the 
 lights, nav lights, pumps etc.
 
 Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?
 
 Alex Giannelia
 CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
 TORONTO, Ontario
 
 a...@airsensing.com mailto:a...@airsensing.com
 
 
 ___
 
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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-09 Thread Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
FYI – the glass type fuses are much more likely to get corroded contacts than 
the blade type fuses.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com 

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

 

And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking 
weatherproof here)  one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the 
other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck 
fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up 
one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it 
from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel 
to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot 
and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, 
although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could 
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when 
not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in 
connection.

 

In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ... 
eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan 
to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge 
panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are 
in the standard CC panel.

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
CC 27 MkIII

 

 

 

From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ; Alex Giannelia 
mailto:a...@airsensing.com  

Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

 

Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an appropriate 
breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were planning that 
already. 

Ed

On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the companionway 
stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 switches and 
fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.

The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced by 
a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor charger 
and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. On the 
starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have 
been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF radios.  
Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 instruments by 
STANDARD HORIZON.

The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the 
locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel 
(already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.

So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be 
switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine installer 
installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.

Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the cabin 
panel.

Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the 
lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

a...@airsensing.com mailto:a...@airsensing.com 


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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-09 Thread ed vanderkruk via CnC-List
Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an
appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you
were planning that already.

Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

 My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the
 companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15
 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off
 switch.

 The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been
 replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric
 motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the
 house bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging
 locker which  may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a
 stereo and two VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new
 condition WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.

 The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the
 locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel
 (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.

 So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be
 switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine
 installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for
 whatever.

 Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the
 cabin panel.

 Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to
 the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

 Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

 Alex Giannelia
 CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
 TORONTO, Ontario

 a...@airsensing.com


 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-08 Thread Russ Melody via CnC-List


Hi Alex,

That sounds like a good plan. I will suggest that you light a small 
indicator lamp on the interior panel connected to the on switch of 
each exterior panel switch (exterior, instrument  navigation) so 
when you snuggle down in an anchorage you can see if you 
unintentionally left an exterior light burning.


Where is the anchor light, deck light and a red cabin light switches 
going to be? Unconventional, but there is an argument to have them 
all outside too.


Dammit, precious little starts to get complicated :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:39 PM 08/04/2015, you wrote:

So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel 
with 15 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 
1-2-all-off switch.


The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been 
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new 
electric motor charger and the second one going to the new smart 
charger for the house bank. On the starboard side of the 
companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have been 
converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF 
radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition 
WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.


The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel 
to the locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to 
have a sub panel (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine 
instruments were.


So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would 
be switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The 
engine installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I 
can use for whatever.


Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched 
from the cabin panel.


Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire 
to the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.


Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

a...@airsensing.com


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Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-08 Thread Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the companionway 
stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 switches and 
fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.

The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced by 
a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor charger 
and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. On the 
starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have 
been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF radios.  
Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 instruments by 
STANDARD HORIZON.

The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the 
locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel 
(already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.

So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be 
switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine installer 
installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.

Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the cabin 
panel.

Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the 
lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

a...@airsensing.com


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