Re: [drakelist] L-4Bs

[W4AWM]

In a message dated 9/6/2003 21:37:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I would not switch from low to high voltage while transmitting.   Is that what you meant?


Hi Stu,

Yes, that is basically what I meant.  When you switch from CW/TUNE to SSB, you are changing taps on the power transformer, a big inductive load.  This practice will, in time, burn the contacts on the switch.  Since the POWER switch does basically the same thing, but is used more often, it is not unusual for that side of the switch to fail first.  That is why I installed a relay to handle the heavy switching load. Now the switch only handles the relay coil, still inductive load wise, but the current is nil.

When I got my L-4B, I knew there might eventually be a problem with a switch that is nearly impossible to find, so I decided to take that precaution.  At the same time, I installed a soft start circuit.  I did the same with my L-7 and plan to do likewise with a recently acquired L-75.

73,

John,  W4AWM

Re: [drakelist] L-4Bs

[Stu Greene]

At 08:09 PM 9/6/2003 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Also, NEVER
switch from CW/TUNE to SSP with the power on or you will eventually fry
the contacts on that side of the switch, too.
John I bought my  my L-4B in February 1978 and it's running with the
original tubes and te original switch.
I have never. in twenty-five years, shut down the amp to switch from
standby to CW  or from CW to SSB. 
 I would not switch from low to high voltage while
transmitting.   Is that what you meant?
   
73  Stu

Re: [drakelist] Drake Knob Source

[W4AWM]

<>


Hi Mark,

If you are extremely careful, you can repair the switch if the contacts are not too far gone.  Once repaired, install a relay such that the switch controld the voltage to the coil of the relay and the relay contacts carry the load.  Also, NEVER switch from CW/TUNE to SSP with the power on or you will eventually fry the contacts on that side of the switch, too.

73,  

John,  W4AWM

Re: [drakelist] Drake Knob Source

[EL34GUY]

Now if we could just find the switches for the L4B

Mark
W0NCL

[drakelist] Drake Knob Source

[Garey Barrell]

I have posted this source before on this list, but Caltronics only sold to
"qualified distributors".   That has changed!

The Caltronics p/n 50-133 is 0.938" in diameter with a 0.250" dia shaft.
This is the Drake "Bar Knob" that fits all the A, B and C Line radios, and
sold for $1.75 locally the last time I checked.

The p/n 50-132 is 0.750" dia with a 0.250" shaft.  Their p/n 50-1418 is a
0.250" to 0.125" "Shaft Reducer" insert.  This is the smaller knob that goes
on the SPR-4 I think it is.

Their p/n 50-261 is a 1.750" dia / 0.250" shaft "Main Tuning Knob."   This
one is a cross between the B and C Line tuning knob.  Actually I guess the
best description is that it is a C Line knob but without the spinner button.
The B Line knob is very similar, but has wider "ridges" on the side of the
knob.  The "boss" for the spinner button is molded into the knob, but the
aluminum insert isn't notched.  Looks to me like you could get the new
notched insert from Charlie, K3ICH and use the button from the old knob if
you had one that was damaged.  Or use "as-is" for the B Line if you weren't
too picky!  This one was $2.64 locally last year.

The good news is that Caltronics (Canoga Park, California):



now accepts orders from individuals, no minimum order other than a $5 charge
for orders under $100.  No "handling charge", only actual shipping.   They
also accept VISA and MC.

The 50-133 now sells for $3.06 in single quantity, and drops to $1.84 at the
first price break of 10 pieces.  So they have gone up since my last quantity
buy.  Still below Drake's last price of $4 each.

These are made by a company that purchased Kurz-Kasch, who apparently was
the original Drake supplier.  These knobs even have the same mold codes as
the Drake supplied knobs.

By the way, they also have the "BAR" Bandswitch knob and the large tuning
knobs for the MN-2000.  The tuning knobs do have a white indicator stripe on
the top of the knob as well as on the skirt, but other than that they are
identical.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

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[drakelist] Drake Gear for sale

[KG4LRU]

I have collected and restored all the Drake twins all the radio have been aligned and Tuned,also the cabinets all have been restored to new condition, also crystals have been replaced as well cabinet screw. paint work has been done by Hartzell all manuals our the orignal Drake. all cables as well as vfo cables our included. All equipment well be checked and will come with a  spare pair NOS stock finals. all prices our Plus shipping!  also will not split up gear! And yes I do not want trades unless you have  acom 2000A amp otherwise cash.
 
Drake T4X & R4 & VG to excellent MS4 with ac/4
600.00 
 
Drake  T4XB & R4B  VG to excellent MS4/ac-4
775.00
 
Drake  T4XC & R4C  Excellent has no mods, with am filter and cw/500, 250/CW No  Noise blanker
MS4 /AC-4
900.00
 
Drake  L4 amp 3-400Z  EXcellent to Mint with supply that was recapped in 89. very Low serial Number 007 
600
 
MN-2000 Tuner  10-80 2000 watts  Excellent to mint.
275.00
 
It costs a 50.00 cabinet for the refinish. 
 
Call if you have question. And to get a better run Down  on each Items . These our in great condition and will need nothing. I may have a enough desk Mics for the radios. At this time I will not break up the radios , Also will not sell the tuner seperate or until the amps gos.
 
 
Or If some would like it all with few more goodies thrown in Call for details.
 
Again the prices do not include shipping.
 
Phil Zavagli KG4LRU  502-339-0422  EST
Please if your not serious about nice equipment do make unreasoable offers.   
 
 

Re: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7

[Rocco Lardiere]

Bill,

I use Caig Labs "Deoxit D5" exclusively, and many others will recommend it
for boatanchor switches and metal/metal contact points, such as relay
contacts and tube sockets.  You can get it at Antique Radio Supply in Tempe,
AZ and many other places.  The only caveat is to avoid spraying too much on
switch wafers that can soak it up; the added capacitance won't affect most
circuits but will sometimes upset crystal oscillators.  The idea is to put
it on the metal, not the wafer.  However, I usually spray with impunity and
get away with it.  Deoxit does an excellent job removing the crud and
oxidation, and won't hurt anything under the chassis (but never spray it
near a plastic dial, because markings are often very fragile).

Others have special favorite cleaners, but Deoxit has proved itself to me.

Glad your TR7 is back on the air!  They are wonderful radios and deserve to
be carefully maintained.

73,

Rocco N6KN
- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 4:43 AM
Subject: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7


>
> -Original Message-
> From: "Rocco Lardiere"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Bill Todd"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri Sep 05 17:26:36 PDT 2003
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7
>
> >
> >
> >Bill,
> >
> >The phase lock loop seems to be not locking on any band.  You might begin
by
> >checking the power supply voltages inside the TR7 to see if the DC/DC
> >converters are working properly.  If not, the dial drifts all over the
place
> >to random freqs.
> >
> > >
> Rocco, N6KN, and some others invited me to try the following with my
ailing TR-7.
>
> "There are lots of other things to check. Often, carefully removing,
> cleaning, and reseating the circuit cards can cure problems. Follow the
> instructions in the service manual. Some cards, such as the digital
display
> card, are tricky to remove, but you need to do it to gain acess to the
cards
> below it. Its a real learning experience."
>
> He, and others were right on the button.  I borrowed a can of
"M.G.Chemicals Electrosolve Contact Cleaner" from a local TV repair shop
this afternoon and after cleaning the bandswitches again and taking off the
main board (on the top of the rig), and carefully removing and then
reseating all the boards that I could get to move, the rig worked just fine.
>
> I gotta tell ya - it is difficult to buy a can of contact cleaner that
does not also contain a lubricating agent.  Rat Shack offers a cleaner for
just under $9.00 but it also contains a lubricant of some kind.  Anyway, I
am glad I stopped by this TV repair shop on my lunch hour and the owner
allowed me to borrow his can.
>
> I told him that I would bring in some horizontal sweep tubes that I have
laying around in payment for the "rental".  Fair exchange if you ask me
(lol).
>
> Bill-N7MFB
>
>
> ___
> Check-out GO.com
> GO get your free GO E-Mail account with expanded storage of 6 MB!
> http://mail.go.com
>
>
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[drakelist] B Line buyers guide.. internal pics for comment

[N4EKV]

Still considering this set for purchase.. comments appreciated.

http://www.n4ekv.com/101_0105.JPG

http://www.n4ekv.com/101_0106.JPG

http://www.n4ekv.com/101_0107.JPG


73,

Adam Nathanson 
Martinez, California
www.n4ekv.com

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