[drakelist] TR-4 pot

[Halo.net]

"Halo.net" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Gents..

I'm new to the list and am not sure just how to break into your 2B exchange 
with a question about a TR-4. Is there a better place to post a general 
question for the list? Thanks
Doc 
WB6WAD
  
=== At 2007-09-28, 18:04:31 you wrote: ===
>"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>--
>Hi John - K5MO,  and John, W1JA;
>
>
>Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for
>the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the
>cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is
>sometimes very noisy.  Wonder if the AC line is used
>for other things besides power (BPL) ?
>
>I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has
>been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B
>is a lot more fun to fix.
>
>Don't know where to start... 
>
>Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK)
>
>For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with
>soap and water, rinse and dry.
>sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust.
>Apply "Rust Converter" from Walmart. 
>Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer.
>Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart)
>and sand. Repeat till smooth.
>Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or
>apply with q-tip or toothpick.
>(I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match)
>
>*IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate
>is protected with clear spray that
> will cloud up if you disturb it.
> CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY 
> AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-(
>
>Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint. 
>Punch holes in bottom
>of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint.  Glossy
>black #1601 really looks good
>on screws.
>
>I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front,
>sides and back of chassis.
>I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis.
>Looks kinda macho, and
>better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF
>connector with shiny ones.
>
>Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C
>clamp.
>  Will have to re-touch up case again with
>semi-flat this time :-(
>  Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking
>worse than the panel, 
>  will repaint it.  It looks easy - no lettering
>:-)
>
>Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic.
>Scrape rust with a small screwdriver.
>Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick.
>Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look
>better. 
>(ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and
>pick a good size)
>Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look
>100% better than rust.
>Super glue washers to knob.  Center carefully.
>
>Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic
>faceplate do-hicky.
>
>Dial backround:  Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510
>Ivory Satin.
>Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way.
>Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and
>spray the visible section.
>Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost
>perfectly.
>
>Lubricate moving parts with (expensive) Tri-Flow
>teflon Superior Lubricant.
>Liquid dries up leaving a teflon coating on bearings.
>
>Buy replacement Capacitors from Unique Radio Parts,
>LLC...Look it up on Google.
>Save the old Capacitor can.  You might want to cut it
>to replace caps on a 
>mint 2B.
>
>I think that is it.
>
>Let me know what you think.  
>Hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear
>but fun (and only about $90 worth of "stuff") to make
>the 2B presentable
>and worthy of a spot on your bench or in your mind.
>
>I will be on the lookout to upgrade mine if a better
>one magically appears.
>
>72/73
>
>Jim / W1FMR
>   
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>--- john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> 
>> john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
>> drakelist gang
>>
>--
>> One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the
>> edges, chassis very 
>> pitted, chips off the front panel.
>> 
>> Works flawlessly!
>> :-)
>> 
>> John K5MO
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:
>> 
>> >"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
>> the drakelist gang
>>
>>--
>> >Hi
>> >I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
>> >presentable as my boatanchor receiver.
>> >
>> >The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
>> >Replaced the DC filter caps
>> >Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
>> >Repaired rust on the case and front panel
>> >Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.
>> >
>> >Had the radio playing absolutely super last night
>> but
>> >this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a
>> hum).
>> >Will see if works OK tonight.
>> >
>> >And someone must have banged the receiver down on
>> the
>> >main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
>

RE: [drakelist] Drake 2B

[Jim F.]

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Your  wish is my command !!

jim


--- Terry Hamilton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> "Terry Hamilton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an
> utterance to the drakelist gang
>
--
> There must be something about 2B's that cause the
> same (cosmetic, mostly)
> defects.  Jim (W1FMR), I'd love to see what you did
> posted.
> 
> Terry
> K7WLD
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of john
> Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:01 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; drakelist
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B
> 
> 
> john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist gang
>
--
> One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the
> edges, chassis very 
> pitted, chips off the front panel.
> 
> Works flawlessly!
> :-)
> 
> John K5MO
> 
> 
> 
> At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:
> 
> >"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
> the drakelist gang
>
>--
> >Hi
> >I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
> >presentable as my boatanchor receiver.
> >
> >The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
> >Replaced the DC filter caps
> >Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
> >Repaired rust on the case and front panel
> >Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.
> >
> >Had the radio playing absolutely super last night
> but
> >this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a
> hum).
> >Will see if works OK tonight.
> >
> >And someone must have banged the receiver down on
> the
> >main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
> >The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is
> turned.
> >  Not serious but annoying.
> >
> >The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
> >last
> >night :-) wonderful !
> >
> >If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
> >repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
> >and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
> >years in a damp basement, let me know and I
> >will post something.
> >
> >The radio does not look absolutely original,
> >but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
> >to it.
> >
> >If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
> >meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
> >  not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.
> >
> >Never thought it would look as good as it does.
> >
> >72,
> >
> >jim / W1FMR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >to be replaced if anyone has any.
> >
> >
> >
>
>--
> >Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -
> unsubscribe drakelist in body
> >Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help
> in body of message
> >Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by
> www.tlchost.net
>
>--
> 
> 
>
--
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> unsubscribe drakelist in body
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> www.tlchost.net
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> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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> unsubscribe drakelist in body
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> 


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[drakelist] Drake 2B How to make a basket case look like an plane Jane..

[Jim F.]

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi John - K5MO,  and John, W1JA;


Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for
the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the
cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is
sometimes very noisy.  Wonder if the AC line is used
for other things besides power (BPL) ?

I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has
been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B
is a lot more fun to fix.

Don't know where to start... 

Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK)

For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with
soap and water, rinse and dry.
sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust.
Apply "Rust Converter" from Walmart. 
Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer.
Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart)
and sand. Repeat till smooth.
Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or
apply with q-tip or toothpick.
(I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match)

*IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate
is protected with clear spray that
 will cloud up if you disturb it.
 CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY 
 AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-(

Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint. 
Punch holes in bottom
of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint.  Glossy
black #1601 really looks good
on screws.

I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front,
sides and back of chassis.
I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis.
Looks kinda macho, and
better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF
connector with shiny ones.

Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C
clamp.
  Will have to re-touch up case again with
semi-flat this time :-(
  Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking
worse than the panel, 
  will repaint it.  It looks easy - no lettering
:-)

Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic.
Scrape rust with a small screwdriver.
Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick.
Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look
better. 
(ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and
pick a good size)
Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look
100% better than rust.
Super glue washers to knob.  Center carefully.

Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic
faceplate do-hicky.

Dial backround:  Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510
Ivory Satin.
Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way.
Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and
spray the visible section.
Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost
perfectly.

Lubricate moving parts with (expensive) Tri-Flow
teflon Superior Lubricant.
Liquid dries up leaving a teflon coating on bearings.

Buy replacement Capacitors from Unique Radio Parts,
LLC...Look it up on Google.
Save the old Capacitor can.  You might want to cut it
to replace caps on a 
mint 2B.

I think that is it.

Let me know what you think.  
Hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear
but fun (and only about $90 worth of "stuff") to make
the 2B presentable
and worthy of a spot on your bench or in your mind.

I will be on the lookout to upgrade mine if a better
one magically appears.

72/73

Jim / W1FMR
   



 



--- john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist gang
>
--
> One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the
> edges, chassis very 
> pitted, chips off the front panel.
> 
> Works flawlessly!
> :-)
> 
> John K5MO
> 
> 
> 
> At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:
> 
> >"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
> the drakelist gang
>
>--
> >Hi
> >I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
> >presentable as my boatanchor receiver.
> >
> >The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
> >Replaced the DC filter caps
> >Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
> >Repaired rust on the case and front panel
> >Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.
> >
> >Had the radio playing absolutely super last night
> but
> >this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a
> hum).
> >Will see if works OK tonight.
> >
> >And someone must have banged the receiver down on
> the
> >main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
> >The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is
> turned.
> >  Not serious but annoying.
> >
> >The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
> >last
> >night :-) wonderful !
> >
> >If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
> >repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
> >and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
> >years in a damp basement, let me know and I
> >will post something.
> >
> >The radio does not look absolutely original,
> >but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
> >to it.
> >
> >If the chassis were not

RE: [drakelist] Drake 2B

[Terry Hamilton]

"Terry Hamilton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
There must be something about 2B's that cause the same (cosmetic, mostly)
defects.  Jim (W1FMR), I'd love to see what you did posted.

Terry
K7WLD

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of john
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; drakelist
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B


john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the edges, chassis very 
pitted, chips off the front panel.

Works flawlessly!
:-)

John K5MO



At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:

>"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>--
>Hi
>I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
>presentable as my boatanchor receiver.
>
>The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
>Replaced the DC filter caps
>Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
>Repaired rust on the case and front panel
>Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.
>
>Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but
>this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum).
>Will see if works OK tonight.
>
>And someone must have banged the receiver down on the
>main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
>The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned.
>  Not serious but annoying.
>
>The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
>last
>night :-) wonderful !
>
>If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
>repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
>and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
>years in a damp basement, let me know and I
>will post something.
>
>The radio does not look absolutely original,
>but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
>to it.
>
>If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
>meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
>  not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.
>
>Never thought it would look as good as it does.
>
>72,
>
>jim / W1FMR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>to be replaced if anyone has any.
>
>
>
>--
>Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
>Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
>Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
>--


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Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B

[john]

john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the edges, chassis very 
pitted, chips off the front panel.


Works flawlessly!
:-)

John K5MO



At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:


"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi
I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
presentable as my boatanchor receiver.

The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
Replaced the DC filter caps
Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
Repaired rust on the case and front panel
Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.

Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but
this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum).
Will see if works OK tonight.

And someone must have banged the receiver down on the
main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned.
 Not serious but annoying.

The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
last
night :-) wonderful !

If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
years in a damp basement, let me know and I
will post something.

The radio does not look absolutely original,
but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
to it.

If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
 not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.

Never thought it would look as good as it does.

72,

jim / W1FMR











to be replaced if anyone has any.



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Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B

[John Pelham]

"John Pelham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jim,

I have a 2B in similar rusty condition.  I'd be very interested in learning 
your techniques.


73,
John W1JA


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "drakelist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:03 PM
Subject: [drakelist] Drake 2B




"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi
I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
presentable as my boatanchor receiver.

The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
Replaced the DC filter caps
Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
Repaired rust on the case and front panel
Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.

Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but
this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum).
Will see if works OK tonight.

And someone must have banged the receiver down on the
main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned.
Not serious but annoying.

The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
last
night :-) wonderful !

If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
years in a damp basement, let me know and I
will post something.

The radio does not look absolutely original,
but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
to it.

If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.

Never thought it would look as good as it does.

72,

jim / W1FMR











to be replaced if anyone has any.



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[drakelist] Drake 2B

[Jim F.]

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi
I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
presentable as my boatanchor receiver.

The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
Replaced the DC filter caps
Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
Repaired rust on the case and front panel
Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.

Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but
this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum).
Will see if works OK tonight.

And someone must have banged the receiver down on the
main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned.
 Not serious but annoying.

The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
last
night :-) wonderful !

If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
repair and what I used to lube the moving parts, 
and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20 
years in a damp basement, let me know and I
will post something.

The radio does not look absolutely original, 
but I really enjoy looking at it and listening 
to it.

If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
 not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.

Never thought it would look as good as it does.

72,

jim / W1FMR











to be replaced if anyone has any.

 

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Re: [drakelist] Noise floor measument on a TR4

[Bill Maddock]

Those numbers are better than anything in Rob Sherwoods website!  Interestingly
  enough one of the Collins 75S3B he tested had -145. Yes more than likely
  with tube you don't have the phase noise, which could make a big difference! 
My Drake
  TR4C sounds much more pleasant and clearer than my TS-850S, just wish the
  drake had the close in dynamic range that my TS-850S does. ( 2 khz)
   
  73,
   
  Bill  N4ZI

Ken Bessler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  .hmmessage P  {  margin:0px;  padding:0px  }  body.hmmessage  {  
FONT-SIZE: 10pt;  FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma  }I just built an Elecraft XG-2 test 
generator. For those
who don't know the model, it's a high accuracy
(output level -107dbm +/-1db) 80/40/20 meter RF
generator. I've used it in the past to determine the
Minimum Discernable Signal or noise floor of a reciever.
 
Here are some of the past results I've gotten:
 
Elecraft K2 #4913 -143dbm
Kenwood TS-850SAT -136dbm
Yaesu FT-920  -137dbm
 
Now to the good stuff - my recently aquired TR4:
 
20m:  -147dbm
40m:  -152dbm
80m:  -151dbm
 
To measure this I injected the generator's -107dbm
(1 microvolt) signal and measured it's peak then
measured the noise next to the carrier and did a 
little math. I also measured the same spot with the
generator on and off.
 
My numbers might be off because I could not turn
off my AGC but to correct for this I made measurements
at many differant "RCVR GAIN" settings on the TR-4 and
averaged them out. I found that with the gain set to
anything less than 11 o'clock, there was no AGC action.
 
I used "Rocky", a SDR program that shows the spectrum
around a signal like a pan adapter. I also ran the tests
witn "Spectrogram", a spectrum analyzer and got very
close to the same numbers. Another impression is by
my ears - the -107dbm signal seemed to be easiest to
pick out of the noise on the TR4 than the other rigs.
 
BTW the 50 microvolt setting produced a S9 signal
on all three bands.
 
The main reason I wanted to test the MDS of my TR4
is the fact that the reciever is so quiet that I got
the impression that it was deaf or broken.
 
Deaf? NOT! 
 
I've only been a Drake owner for 5 days but I'm quickly
becoming a fan!

73's de Ken KG0WX - Kadiddlehopper #11808,
   Flying Pigs #-1055, Grid EM17io

  
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out! 

   
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RE: [drakelist] Noise floor measument on a TR4

[Terry Hamilton]

Ken - Who said vacuum tubes were outmoded?  Any more good reports like that
one, and Drake might decide to start manufacturing the 4-line again!  Can
you imagine a T9/R9 combo?  

 

Terry

K7WLD

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ken Bessler
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 4:49 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] Noise floor measument on a TR4

 

I just built an Elecraft XG-2 test generator. For those
who don't know the model, it's a high accuracy
(output level -107dbm +/-1db) 80/40/20 meter RF
generator. I've used it in the past to determine the
Minimum Discernable Signal or noise floor of a reciever.
 
Here are some of the past results I've gotten:
 
Elecraft K2 #4913 -143dbm
Kenwood TS-850SAT -136dbm
Yaesu FT-920  -137dbm
 
Now to the good stuff - my recently aquired TR4:
 
20m:  -147dbm
40m:  -152dbm
80m:  -151dbm
 
To measure this I injected the generator's -107dbm
(1 microvolt) signal and measured it's peak then
measured the noise next to the carrier and did a 
little math. I also measured the same spot with the
generator on and off.
 
My numbers might be off because I could not turn
off my AGC but to correct for this I made measurements
at many differant "RCVR GAIN" settings on the TR-4 and
averaged them out. I found that with the gain set to
anything less than 11 o'clock, there was no AGC action.
 
I used "Rocky", a SDR program that shows the spectrum
around a signal like a pan adapter. I also ran the tests
witn "Spectrogram", a spectrum analyzer and got very
close to the same numbers. Another impression is by
my ears - the -107dbm signal seemed to be easiest to
pick out of the noise on the TR4 than the other rigs.
 
BTW the 50 microvolt setting produced a S9 signal
on all three bands.
 
The main reason I wanted to test the MDS of my TR4
is the fact that the reciever is so quiet that I got
the impression that it was deaf or broken.
 
Deaf? NOT! 
 
I've only been a Drake owner for 5 days but I'm quickly
becoming a fan!

73's de Ken KG0WX - Kadiddlehopper #11808,
   Flying Pigs #-1055, Grid EM17io

  _  

Get news, entertainment and everything you care about at Live.com. Check it
out!  

Re: [drakelist] Noise floor measument on a TR4

[Rick Tucker]

Ken,
I'm not at all surprised by the test results.  The Drake, Collins and Heath 
gear was excellent stuff.  
73
Rick
W0RT
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ken Bessler 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 6:48 AM
  Subject: [drakelist] Noise floor measument on a TR4


  I just built an Elecraft XG-2 test generator. For those
  who don't know the model, it's a high accuracy
  (output level -107dbm +/-1db) 80/40/20 meter RF
  generator. I've used it in the past to determine the
  Minimum Discernable Signal or noise floor of a reciever.
   
  Here are some of the past results I've gotten:
   
  Elecraft K2 #4913 -143dbm
  Kenwood TS-850SAT -136dbm
  Yaesu FT-920  -137dbm
   
  Now to the good stuff - my recently aquired TR4:
   
  20m:  -147dbm
  40m:  -152dbm
  80m:  -151dbm
   
  To measure this I injected the generator's -107dbm
  (1 microvolt) signal and measured it's peak then
  measured the noise next to the carrier and did a 
  little math. I also measured the same spot with the
  generator on and off.
   
  My numbers might be off because I could not turn
  off my AGC but to correct for this I made measurements
  at many differant "RCVR GAIN" settings on the TR-4 and
  averaged them out. I found that with the gain set to
  anything less than 11 o'clock, there was no AGC action.
   
  I used "Rocky", a SDR program that shows the spectrum
  around a signal like a pan adapter. I also ran the tests
  witn "Spectrogram", a spectrum analyzer and got very
  close to the same numbers. Another impression is by
  my ears - the -107dbm signal seemed to be easiest to
  pick out of the noise on the TR4 than the other rigs.
   
  BTW the 50 microvolt setting produced a S9 signal
  on all three bands.
   
  The main reason I wanted to test the MDS of my TR4
  is the fact that the reciever is so quiet that I got
  the impression that it was deaf or broken.
   
  Deaf? NOT! 
   
  I've only been a Drake owner for 5 days but I'm quickly
  becoming a fan!

  73's de Ken KG0WX - Kadiddlehopper #11808,
 Flying Pigs #-1055, Grid EM17io


--
  Get news, entertainment and everything you care about at Live.com. Check it 
out! 

[drakelist] Noise floor measument on a TR4

[Ken Bessler]

I just built an Elecraft XG-2 test generator. For those
who don't know the model, it's a high accuracy
(output level -107dbm +/-1db) 80/40/20 meter RF
generator. I've used it in the past to determine the
Minimum Discernable Signal or noise floor of a reciever.
 
Here are some of the past results I've gotten:
 
Elecraft K2 #4913 -143dbm
Kenwood TS-850SAT -136dbm
Yaesu FT-920  -137dbm
 
Now to the good stuff - my recently aquired TR4:
 
20m:  -147dbm
40m:  -152dbm
80m:  -151dbm
 
To measure this I injected the generator's -107dbm
(1 microvolt) signal and measured it's peak then
measured the noise next to the carrier and did a 
little math. I also measured the same spot with the
generator on and off.
 
My numbers might be off because I could not turn
off my AGC but to correct for this I made measurements
at many differant "RCVR GAIN" settings on the TR-4 and
averaged them out. I found that with the gain set to
anything less than 11 o'clock, there was no AGC action.
 
I used "Rocky", a SDR program that shows the spectrum
around a signal like a pan adapter. I also ran the tests
witn "Spectrogram", a spectrum analyzer and got very
close to the same numbers. Another impression is by
my ears - the -107dbm signal seemed to be easiest to
pick out of the noise on the TR4 than the other rigs.
 
BTW the 50 microvolt setting produced a S9 signal
on all three bands.
 
The main reason I wanted to test the MDS of my TR4
is the fact that the reciever is so quiet that I got
the impression that it was deaf or broken.
 
Deaf? NOT! 
 
I've only been a Drake owner for 5 days but I'm quickly
becoming a fan!
73's de Ken KG0WX - Kadiddlehopper #11808,   Flying Pigs #-1055, Grid 
EM17io
_
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