Re: [RE][drakelist] Trade ameritron al-80a for Drake L4b

2008-01-18 Thread Carey Lockhart
thanks for the input Joe. i have been having trouble making my mind  
up. i think your right..


Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.kc5gtt.com



On Jan 17, 2008, at 7:20 PM, Joe Roth wrote:

"Joe Roth" made an utterance to the drakelist gang  
--
You would be best off to sell the AL80 for $800+ and turn around  
and find an L4B for near that amount. Dollar for dollar, I would  
take the L4B. I had an AL80A and while I loved the amp and still  
recommend it, the L4B is superior.

Joe-WC4R




-[ Received Mail Content ]--

Subject : [drakelist] Trade ameritron al-80a for Drake L4b

Date : Thu, 17 Jan 2008 17:42:04 -0600

From : Carey Lockhart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To : Drake List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



i am looking to trade my al-80a for a l4b. i have seen that they are

going for the same price in the different markets. i ! listed it on

qth.com and have had a couple of offers for 850.00 cash. my question

is would that be enough to get a l4b in good shape. or better yet, do

any of yall have one that you want to sell.



Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

www.kc5gtt.com










www.wc4r.com
www.rothweb.net
www.williamsburgwx.com  
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[drakelist] L4B Amp

2008-01-18 Thread Don Cunningham


"Don Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Gentlemen,
I am in the market for a nice Drake L4B.  First I would like to find one in 
reasonable driving distance of Southwestern Oklahoma, but if that isn't 
possible, I may have to consider shipping.  Any sellers out there???

Tks,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [drakelist] WeakTR-3 transmit on 40, 15, and 10 meters

2008-01-18 Thread re . carter

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Thanks Byron
I'm expecting to have to replace some crystals.   Can anyone recommend a source 
for crystals at a decent price?

--
Rich Carter

 -- Original message --
From: "Byron Tatum" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> "Byron Tatum" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Rich-
> Sounds like crystal osc not working, as TR-3 works without the premixer 
> (VFO beating against crystal osc) on 80 and 20. Bad crystals are my #1 
> suspicion.
> Use a VTVM or high impedance voltmeter and check for oscillation (as 
> described in manual): connect meter to Test Point and check for negative 
> voltage (about -5 volts or so).
> If the crystals are oscillating then I would check voltages around 
> premixer tube. If OK there I would adjust the injection coupler transformer 
> for one of the bands just to see if someone diddled with it, but that is 
> pretty remote there.
> I like to use the 6GH8A in place of 6U8 or 6EA8 for a little more "kick" 
> in both mixer and premixer.
> CUL, Byron WA5THJ.
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 10:32 AM
> Subject: [drakelist] WeakTR-3 transmit on 40, 15, and 10 meters
> 
> 
> > I'm restoring a TR-3 transceiver.  I've cleaned it up, tested the tubes, 
> > and carefully cleaned the switch and relay contacts.  I find that I'm able 
> > to get about 100 watts CW on both the 80 and 20 meter band.  The receiver 
> > seems to work fine for these two bands.   The other bands are very weak. 
> > In fact, I get nothing out on 40 meters and only about 1 watt max on the 
> > other bands.  I suspect the crystal oscillator.  I replaced the 6EA8 tube, 
> > things improved very slightly on 15 and 10, but still no power out on 40. 
> > There is a test point available on tube V1a.  I put a scope probe on the 
> > test point, but I don't see a signal.  Well, I see just some 60 cycle 
> > ripple on 40 meters.  On the other bands, there may be a very small 
> > oscillation superimposed on that, but I can't tell.   If I put the probe 
> > near the tube, I pick up what looks like an HF oscillation on 10 and 15 
> > meters.
> >
> > Does anyone know what the signal on this test point should look like?
> >
> > On receive, the 80 and 20 meter bands appear good.  I can receive strong 
> > stations on the 40 and 15 meter bands, but I think the receiver is 
> > partially deaf.  I don't know how good the 10 meter band is.  There isn't 
> > much activity on that and these days.  I suspect the 40m crystal, but if 
> > it were bad, I would expect it to be totally deaf on 40m.  I thought 
> > perhaps something might be wrong with the band switch, but I've cleaned it 
> > up pretty well.
> >
> > Any suggestions on how to proceed troubleshooting the transmitter?
> >
> > The rig came with a Collins hand mic.  I find that I get poor audio when 
> > transmitting SSB (on the two good bands).  I get a only a few watts out in 
> > SSB.  I suspect that the mic impedance is wrong.  There's a transformer in 
> > the mic.  The element measures 4 ohms.  I could possibly change the 
> > transformer or increase the mic gain.  I'm reluctant to change the mic 
> > gain, but I think I could lower R94 to boost the signal.   Anyone know 
> > what they put in these things for a transformer?
> >
> > Rich KE1EV
> >
> > 
> 
> 
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Re: [drakelist] TR-3 alignment question

2008-01-18 Thread Gypsymt34
 
In a message dated 1/18/2008 1:45:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'd like  to align my TR-3.  By crystal calibrator signal, do they mean to 
use the  internal calibrator to tune the rig to precise  frequencies?



That's the way my TR4 manual reads to me,  using a general coverage  receiver 
to verify.
Carl  WD8NHK



**Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape. 
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Re: [drakelist] Need on-off switch R4B

2008-01-18 Thread Gypsymt34
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Also,  could use suggestions on best ways to clean the chassis.  Thanks-73 
Lew  K1NDV


Hi, 
Can't help with the switch.
 
 By cleaning do you mean dust & dirt removal ?  If so rubbing  alcohol, or 
denatured alcohol and Q-tips.
Others recommend Windex on paper towels.   Keeping the  tube lettering on is 
a job.
 I you are referring to rust coming through the very thin copper  plating and 
ergo the steel rusting, have only seen one done (in pictures) and  that was 
massively taped off, primed and painted with a copper paint.
73's & good luck  Carl WD8NHK



**Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape. 
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[drakelist] TR-3 alignment question

2008-01-18 Thread re . carter

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I'd like to align my TR-3.  I don't understand the alignment instructions in 
the manual and would appreciate a little help.Instructions list a few 
simple items needed for alignment including a test lead, voltmeter, WWV 
receiver, and RF output indicator.  I assume an RF power meter is what they 
mean by an RF output indicator.  There is no reference to any expensive 
calibration equipment.

Instructions then the use of a crystal calibrator signal.  What is thing thing? 
 I have an HP function/sweep generator, but I don't think this is stable enough 
to use for calibrating something like this.  By crystal calibrator signal, do 
they mean to use the internal calibrator to tune the rig to precise frequencies?


Rich Carter - KE1EV

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[drakelist] Need on-off switch R4B

2008-01-18 Thread Lew (K1NDV)
I'm still looking for the on-off switch wafer section for an R4B. Can paypal or 
postal check. My R4B had the on-off switch removed but prior owner took out the 
mounting wafer too!! Also, could use suggestions on best ways to clean the 
chassis.  Thanks-73 Lew K1NDV

Re: [drakelist] WeakTR-3 transmit on 40, 15, and 10 meters

2008-01-18 Thread Byron Tatum


"Byron Tatum" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Rich-
   Sounds like crystal osc not working, as TR-3 works without the premixer 
(VFO beating against crystal osc) on 80 and 20. Bad crystals are my #1 
suspicion.
   Use a VTVM or high impedance voltmeter and check for oscillation (as 
described in manual): connect meter to Test Point and check for negative 
voltage (about -5 volts or so).
   If the crystals are oscillating then I would check voltages around 
premixer tube. If OK there I would adjust the injection coupler transformer 
for one of the bands just to see if someone diddled with it, but that is 
pretty remote there.
   I like to use the 6GH8A in place of 6U8 or 6EA8 for a little more "kick" 
in both mixer and premixer.

   CUL, Byron WA5THJ.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 10:32 AM
Subject: [drakelist] WeakTR-3 transmit on 40, 15, and 10 meters


I'm restoring a TR-3 transceiver.  I've cleaned it up, tested the tubes, 
and carefully cleaned the switch and relay contacts.  I find that I'm able 
to get about 100 watts CW on both the 80 and 20 meter band.  The receiver 
seems to work fine for these two bands.   The other bands are very weak. 
In fact, I get nothing out on 40 meters and only about 1 watt max on the 
other bands.  I suspect the crystal oscillator.  I replaced the 6EA8 tube, 
things improved very slightly on 15 and 10, but still no power out on 40. 
There is a test point available on tube V1a.  I put a scope probe on the 
test point, but I don't see a signal.  Well, I see just some 60 cycle 
ripple on 40 meters.  On the other bands, there may be a very small 
oscillation superimposed on that, but I can't tell.   If I put the probe 
near the tube, I pick up what looks like an HF oscillation on 10 and 15 
meters.


Does anyone know what the signal on this test point should look like?

On receive, the 80 and 20 meter bands appear good.  I can receive strong 
stations on the 40 and 15 meter bands, but I think the receiver is 
partially deaf.  I don't know how good the 10 meter band is.  There isn't 
much activity on that and these days.  I suspect the 40m crystal, but if 
it were bad, I would expect it to be totally deaf on 40m.  I thought 
perhaps something might be wrong with the band switch, but I've cleaned it 
up pretty well.


Any suggestions on how to proceed troubleshooting the transmitter?

The rig came with a Collins hand mic.  I find that I get poor audio when 
transmitting SSB (on the two good bands).  I get a only a few watts out in 
SSB.  I suspect that the mic impedance is wrong.  There's a transformer in 
the mic.  The element measures 4 ohms.  I could possibly change the 
transformer or increase the mic gain.  I'm reluctant to change the mic 
gain, but I think I could lower R94 to boost the signal.   Anyone know 
what they put in these things for a transformer?


Rich KE1EV





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Re: [drakelist] Replacing "Soup Can" IF filter

2008-01-18 Thread Byron Tatum
OK Carl-
Thank you. I should have posted an article but on my old dial-up connection 
it woulf take hours to send. This upgrade would be really great on the TR-4. I 
sure like the performance of the TR-3 after doing it.
Another thing I do is dis-assemble PTO's and clean the parts. I really 
enjoy Drake tube gear, I used to have all of the different mfgr's gear but got 
rid of everything except Drake.
CUL, Byron.
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 7:51 AM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] Replacing "Soup Can" IF filter


   [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Drake TR-3 soup can
  Hi Byron, 
  Tis a good write up and I will be sorely tempted if my soup can breaks down 
(TR4 early) 
  Would make a great article with pictures, perhaps posted on something like 
N9BOR's sight 
  Fame if not fortune.
  Carl WD8NHK






--
  Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. 

[drakelist] WeakTR-3 transmit on 40, 15, and 10 meters

2008-01-18 Thread re . carter
I'm restoring a TR-3 transceiver.  I've cleaned it up, tested the tubes, and 
carefully cleaned the switch and relay contacts.  I find that I'm able to get 
about 100 watts CW on both the 80 and 20 meter band.  The receiver seems to 
work fine for these two bands.   The other bands are very weak.  In fact, I get 
nothing out on 40 meters and only about 1 watt max on the other bands.  I 
suspect the crystal oscillator.  I replaced the 6EA8 tube, things improved very 
slightly on 15 and 10, but still no power out on 40.  There is a test point 
available on tube V1a.  I put a scope probe on the test point, but I don't see 
a signal.  Well, I see just some 60 cycle ripple on 40 meters.  On the other 
bands, there may be a very small oscillation superimposed on that, but I can't 
tell.   If I put the probe near the tube, I pick up what looks like an HF 
oscillation on 10 and 15 meters.  

Does anyone know what the signal on this test point should look like?

On receive, the 80 and 20 meter bands appear good.  I can receive strong 
stations on the 40 and 15 meter bands, but I think the receiver is partially 
deaf.  I don't know how good the 10 meter band is.  There isn't much activity 
on that and these days.  I suspect the 40m crystal, but if it were bad, I would 
expect it to be totally deaf on 40m.  I thought perhaps something might be 
wrong with the band switch, but I've cleaned it up pretty well.

Any suggestions on how to proceed troubleshooting the transmitter?

The rig came with a Collins hand mic.  I find that I get poor audio when 
transmitting SSB (on the two good bands).  I get a only a few watts out in SSB. 
 I suspect that the mic impedance is wrong.  There's a transformer in the mic.  
The element measures 4 ohms.  I could possibly change the transformer or 
increase the mic gain.  I'm reluctant to change the mic gain, but I think I 
could lower R94 to boost the signal.   Anyone know what they put in these 
things for a transformer?  

Rich KE1EV

--- Begin Message ---



Hello-
    Just a report on an experiment 
tried on a Drake TR-3. I restored an early TR-3 that had the "Soup Can" 9.0 Mhz 
IF filter pair. The TR-3 was in very nice condition and I plan on actively using 
it. I like the higher quality 8 pole filters and had found a LSB / USB pair that 
came out of a Harris military transceiver.There were 2.8 Khz. wide, 8 pole, 400 
ohm impedance compact PC mount filters.
    There will be plenty of room for 
this assembly, the only thing that is tight is there is just barely enough 
height for the 1-3/4" perf board.  
    Here is how I installed them in 
the TR-3:
        1. I removed 
the "Soup Can" filter assembly, unsoldered the case, opened case so that I 
could unsolder the two pilot lamp switching wires from switch assembly. Note 
where these two wires go, they will be re-soldered later.
        2. Unsolder 
the 3 cond wire going to each filter matching transformer.
        3. I used the 
existing switch the "Soup Can" filter was built upon. The LSB filter is the 
bottom four crystals, top four crystals are USB filter when you have the 
assembly laying on bench with shaft towards you and the longer 3-cond cable 
to the left, just as it would be in the radio when radio is laying on bench 
upside down with front panel toward you.
        4.  On 
the rear switch deck note the switch terminals {they are across drom each other 
180 degrees} the red wire in each 3 cond pair is soldered to - this is the 
in / out hot connection for the assembly ( I call "red wire terminal"). Unsolder 
the red, black and shield (bare) wires of 
each 3 cond. cable.
        5. On the 
rear switch deck note the switch contacts above / below  the ones the red 
wire were soldered to. (These are the contacts that will be used to wire the new 
filters to.) There will be crystals soldered to them. There will be 
crystals soldered to the inner switch deck. Unsolder all crystals and 
capacitors, but do not disturb switch in any other way.
        6. Use a 
1-3/4" square piece of perf board with copper PC pads on .1" centers, such as 
the Radio Shack #276-148 PC board. Place Harris filters on side of board without 
copper pads, the filters terminals will line up and go through perf board. 
Place LSB filter on bottom. The two filters will take up nearly all of the perf 
board. Note the two ground pins of each filter. I soldered a ground bus 
wire across board for each filters ground pin pair.
        7. Using 
short pieces of bus wire solder one to each filter hot pin (4 total). Bend these 
bus wires so that this perf board assembly can be brought up within about 1/2" 
of rear switch deck.
        8. Solder the 
two leads for LSB filter to 
the rear switch section contacts : One filter lead goes to switch 
contact under the red wire terminal on one side and to same terminal on other 
side of switch.
        9. Solder the 
two leads for USB filter to the rear switch contacts : One filter lead goes 
to switch contact above the

Re: [drakelist] Replacing "Soup Can" IF filter

2008-01-18 Thread Gypsymt34
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Drake  TR-3 soup can
Hi Byron, 
Tis a good write up and I will be sorely tempted if my soup can breaks down  
(TR4 early) 
Would make a great article with pictures, perhaps posted on something like  
N9BOR's sight 
Fame if not fortune.
Carl WD8NHK

 



**Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape. 
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489