[Drakelist] TR7 item questions (2)

[Gypsymt34]

Hello to the group,
 
Question one.
It appears that if one pulls the plastic end caps from the front panel, has 
 the top cover and bottom panel removed, have the DR7 board out,  then 
pulls  two of the three screws on each side that the front panel will pull open 
like a  horizontal hinge..do you have to pull the band switch shaft to 
the rear to  clear ? 
Will the PTO also swing up?
Will this allow access to the mode switch mounting point AND allow me to  
lube the latching mechanism ?
 
Question two.
In reference to Garey Barrells (K4OAH) archived comments on  reflowing the 
main board pin solder, if you have done so, did you have the main  board 
removed (my guess) , or try to do between the metal  partitions? 
 
Don't you just love basket cases..   Carl  WD8NHK 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 item questions (2)

[Jim Shorney]

Hi Carl,

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 12:26:56 EST, gypsym...@aol.com wrote:

>It appears that if one pulls the plastic end caps from the front panel, has 
> the top cover and bottom panel removed, have the DR7 board out,  then 
>pulls  two of the three screws on each side that the front panel will pull 
>open 
>like a  horizontal hinge..do you have to pull the band switch shaft to 
>the rear to  clear ? 

Yes. Note that there is a grounding spring on the metal partition that must be
positioned properly upon reassembly if you pull the shaft completely out. Which
you don't need to do in order to drop the front panel. Remove the knob and the
two screws from the detent mechanism on the rear panel, and pull the shaft back
just enough to clear the front pane.

>Will the PTO also swing up?

Yes.

>Will this allow access to the mode switch mounting point AND allow me to  
>lube the latching mechanism ?

It should, but there are a LOT of wires there. 
 
>Question two.
>In reference to Garey Barrells (K4OAH) archived comments on  reflowing the 
>main board pin solder, if you have done so, did you have the main  board 
>removed (my guess) , or try to do between the metal  partitions? 

The main board soldering problems I have seen have all been Molex pin
connectors, which you access from the bottom. No need to pull the main board,
for any reason that I can think of. Even the parts of the main board (a.k.a.
"Parent Board") that have parts and circuitry on them are relatively easy to
reach.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
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http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Drake tubes

[James Bridgers]

Greetings,
I am in need of some tubes for my TR-4.  Can anyone recommend a good vendor?

Thanks

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake tubes

[Garey Barrell]

James -

In no particular order ...











Specify Sylvania, RCA, or GE for best results.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



James Bridgers wrote:

Greetings,
I am in need of some tubes for my TR-4.  Can anyone recommend a good vendor?

Thanks

   


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[Drakelist] tube question for the drake r4b

[Mike Bryce]

Working my way through the pile.

I came upon a R4B that does not quite work right. before I dig into  
this receiver, i have a question


according to the manual, V1, A 6BZ6 is the RF amplifier

my radio has the expensive 6HS6 in place of the 6BZ6.

Is this a okay substitute ? Or do I need to order a 6BZ6 someplace?



Mike Bryce, WB8VGE
 the heathkit shop
SunLight energy systems
J e e p
o|||o


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Re: [Drakelist] tube question for the drake r4b

[Garey Barrell]

Mike -

The 6HS6 was a popular "hop-up" for some of the Heath receivers in the 
late 60's.  It makes a receiver "seem" hotter, because it is a "Sharp 
Cutoff" pentode while the 6BZ6 is a more appropriate "Semi-Remote 
Cutoff" pentode.  This changes the AVC characteristics, making the 
S-Meter read higher, but makes the receiver much more sensitive to 
overload.  Today, with strong signals everywhere, receivers are limited 
more by overload and higher man-made noise levels than they are helped 
by added RF Gain.  You would be much better served to save that 6HS6 for 
use as a First Mixer and/or PreMixer and put a considerbly  less 
expensive 6BZ6 in the V1 socket!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Mike Bryce wrote:

Working my way through the pile.

I came upon a R4B that does not quite work right. before I dig into 
this receiver, i have a question


according to the manual, V1, A 6BZ6 is the RF amplifier

my radio has the expensive 6HS6 in place of the 6BZ6.

Is this a okay substitute ? Or do I need to order a 6BZ6 someplace?




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