Re: [Drakelist] rubber feet for ac-4

2010-02-16 Thread n9...@juno.com
Jim
There are Drake feet for rigs and supplies on ebay right now. Look like 
originals but you never know.
73
Guy
N9XBG


Nutrition
Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
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[Drakelist] unsubscribe

2010-02-16 Thread Kim Briggs

unsubscribe



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Re: [Drakelist] How to clean Drake knobs?

2010-02-16 Thread Gary Poland
You can try Windex and cotton swabs but more often then not you will rub off 
some of the white paint. Best thing is white enamel applied with a thin brush, 
then just before it dries, wipe off any excess outside of the groove with a rag 
moistened with paint thinner. The knobs were originally painted.
White laquer sticks also work but is much harder to do. 

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[Drakelist] VOX Relay Cable

2010-02-16 Thread TONYKURL
To Paul, K3PG:  
 
Paul--I recently decided to get my first amp.  Ron Baker, WB4HFN, told  me 
that a kit to change the two pin VOX relay plug on the AC-4 to an RCA phono  
connector is sold by John Kriner.  Look at his ePay store:  The Man's  
Amateur Parts Supply.  I bought two from The Man this weekend, at $12  a pop 
with shipping.  I am going to try my own B line with an amp,  too.  Hopefully, 
neither the 600 watt Ameritron or the B line will blow up  when I hook them 
together!  Good luck.  73, Tony  N3WAK
 
 
In a message dated 2/15/2010 12:01:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net writes:

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Today's Topics:

1. FW:  National NC-190 - another project radio (Duane Calvin)
2. Re:  VOX Relay Cable connector for AC-4 (David  Assaf)


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Message:  1
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 22:52:52 -0600
From: Duane Calvin  ac...@ac5aa.com
Subject: [Drakelist] FW: National NC-190 - another  project radio
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Message-ID:  8dd09fdd8e594648a74218a325b93...@dgflbs91
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=us-ascii

The NC-190 is sold pending receipt of funds.   Thanks for inquiring.



73,  Duane



Duane Calvin, AC5AA

Austin,  Texas

www.ac5aa.com  



_   

From: Duane Calvin [mailto:ac...@ac5aa.com] 
Sent: Sunday, February  14, 2010 7:52 PM
To: 'drakelist@zerobeat.net'
Subject: National NC-190 -  another project radio



I know, this is the Drake list, but let  me try one more here.  I'm cleaning
the shack, and this was to be my  project radio.  The NC-190 is one of
National's blue radios.   It has a bandspread dial that is calibrated on
both sides - one for ham  bands, one for SWL.  With a flip of the knob, the
dial switches around  to one or the other.  This one is currently not
operating - no  audio.  When I first received it it could hear BC band
stations  weakly.  Since it was to be a project radio, I didn't worry  about
that.  Today I put a speaker on it and could not hear BC band  stations at
all.  So, something is no longer working correctly.   Cosmetically it's
average.  Front panel is in good condition, knobs  need cleaning, and I've
never removed the cover to see what the internals  look like.  The top of 
the
chassis looks OK.  Everything is here  except a cardboard modesty panel on
the rear.  I can send photos if  interested.  I've listed it on Ebay, but
will be happy to sell it to a  Drake-ster for $70 plus shipping / packing /
insurance.  This one will  finish up the boatanchors that I need to remove
from the shack.  Let  me know if you're interested.  



73, Duane



Duane Calvin, AC5AA

Austin,  Texas 

www.ac5aa.com  



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Message:  2
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:44:14 -0600
From: David Assaf  w...@cox.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] VOX Relay Cable connector for  AC-4
To: Paul Gerhardt phgerha...@gmail.com
Cc:  drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Message-ID:  a7a7942b-bb57-4540-890e-e1088eb38...@cox.net
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii; Format=flowed;
DelSp=yes

In the old days of tv sets that had removeable backs supply  houses  
would sell a cheater cord that would go between the back that  is  
removed and the set itself. This extension was an exact fit for  the  
receptacle on the power supply.you can also bring out the two  wires  
thru the chassis ans go from there. Note that some early ac 3  units  
did not have this connector.
Good lick

Sent from my  iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jan 22, 2010, at 12:15 PM, Paul Gerhardt  phgerha...@gmail.com  
wrote:

 Anybody have a part  #/source for a VOX connector for the AC-4?  What  
 else can  you use to make a relay cable?  Going to try the 'B' line  
  on one of my amps.


 Some Drake restore pix on  blogspot

 -- 
 Paul Gerhardt
 K3PG
  http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com
 QRP ARCI 6674
 FP 274
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[Drakelist] test, ignore

2010-02-16 Thread Ron
seem to not be able to post.  Sorry for bothering others.

73,
Ron WD8SBB


  

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Re: [Drakelist] How to clean Drake knobs?

2010-02-16 Thread Curt Nixon
I always used the lacquer sticks..available from engravers supply 
pl;aces.  The only problem with them is the knob lines are very wide and 
deep--relative to normal engraved lettereing--so it is easy to get a 
kind of gobby application if you aren't careful.  Lately, since starting 
to use them in modelling, I love the white paint pens..from artist 
supply houses.  If you try a couple of different tip sizes, you will get 
one that lays right into the knob slot with no fuss and no muss.  My 
opinion is these are now the way to go.


And if you feel wild, they are available in a rainbow of colors :)

Curt



Duane Calvin wrote:

I tried to reply earlier, and it didn't go to the list.  I took the
suggestion of my good friend, Mike, K2UXE, and went to a drafting supply
house (or you could check an art supply store) and bought a Marvy/Uchida
Extra Fine Opaque White paint pen.  It works great on the knob indicator
lines, and makes them look just like new. Perhaps this is what you're
describing as the lacquer stick?  


73, Duane

Duane Calvin, AC5AA
Austin, Texas
www.ac5aa.com  
 


-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 10:24 PM
To: Drakelist
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] How to clean Drake knobs?

The Lacquer Stik is the almost official way to fill the knobs.  i 
think it's easiest because you just rub it in and wipe off the excess.


Some use White-out, but that's getting hard to find!

White Testor's model paint works, but requires a deft touch with a small 
brush to keep it within the lines.


I haven't tried a China marker yet.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Paul Gerhardt wrote:
  
Bud I cleaned mine in the kitchen sink with dish soap and a 
toothbrush.  Maybe not a great idea as some of the white came off.


I have not yet tried it but
Lacquer Stick
is a product that Gun Smiths use for white markings or Sanford white 
china marker, available at most art supply stores.


Maybe model paint and a toothpick.  The soap and toothbrush got the 
knobs pretty clean but WILL take the white markings out if you scrub 
too much..


Paul K3PG

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 16:23:26 -0700
From: sebdesn sebd...@comcast.net mailto:sebd...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] How to clean Drake knobs?


I have removed the knobs from my T-4XC and am trying to get the white
stripe white again.  The stripe is an off white and cleaning in hot
soapy water has not helped.  Has anyone found an easy way to make
them white without repainting them?

Mine are clean, but you might try toothpaste and a soft tooth 
brush...(just

a thought, hopefully not to off the wall))

Bud


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Re: [Drakelist] test, ignore

2010-02-16 Thread Garey Barrell

Gee Ron, that's too bad..   :-)

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Ron wrote:

seem to not be able to post.  Sorry for bothering others.

73,
Ron WD8SBB



   


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Re: [Drakelist] How to clean Drake knobs?

2010-02-16 Thread Garey Barrell

Duane -

No, that's not a Lacquer stick, which is more like a waxy crayon.

The Paint Pen sounds very interesting.  Have to see if I can find one.

Thanks!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Duane Calvin wrote:

I tried to reply earlier, and it didn't go to the list.  I took the
suggestion of my good friend, Mike, K2UXE, and went to a drafting supply
house (or you could check an art supply store) and bought a Marvy/Uchida
Extra Fine Opaque White paint pen.  It works great on the knob indicator
lines, and makes them look just like new. Perhaps this is what you're
describing as the lacquer stick?

73, Duane



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[Drakelist] TR7 power supply board glitch

2010-02-16 Thread Craig Roberts
Okie doke.  I just replaced the tired, old and flaky trimmers on my 
TR7's power supply board with precision trimpots.  I've done this on two 
other TR7s without incident. This time, however, powering up blows the 
rig's internal 5 amp fuse. 

Could this be caused by an overvoltage condition on the 10 volt line?  
After installing the new trimpots, I began the alignment sequence, as 
usual, by measuring the voltage on the line.  It read 13 + volts.   The 
fuse blew moments later before I could adjust the 10 volt line's new 
trimpot.


The real mystery, however, is why the same thing now happens when I 
substitute an unmodified known-to-be-working power supply board. This 
rig was trouble-free before I fixed it, of course.  Yeah -- I know, 
if it broke, don't fix it..., but


What condition(s) would take out the 5A  fuse?

Many thanks and 73,

Craig
W3CRR

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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 power supply board glitch

2010-02-16 Thread Jim Shorney
On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 16:07:06 -0500, Craig Roberts wrote:

What condition(s) would take out the 5A  fuse?

You don't mention if the fuse blows with no power supply board plugged in. A
short  anywhere on the 13.4 volt rail will take the fuse out instantly. I had
this happen due to a miswired pilot lamp socket in an RV-7. Normally, the outer
shell of the pilot lamp socket is connected to ground; in this unit it was
connected to +13.4, and accidentally shorted to the chassis as I was adjusting
the position of the pilot lamp for best lighting. It is also possible for the
lamp socket lugs to short to each other, or to the chassis, if the sockets or
wires have been moved. Or you could have a shorted lamp, but that would be
extremely rare.

Of course, there could be 100 other possible causes, but the lamp sockets are
probably the easiest to check. Perhaps one of the Molex pins shifted just
enough to short to something on the underside of the chassis, or an
electrolytic capacitor on one of the supply rails let go. For future reference,
it might be a good idea to set the trimpot to midrange before you power up, or
measure the old trimmer with an ohmmeter before removal and set the new one to
about the same value after installation

73

-Jim
.

73

-Jim


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[Drakelist] hello -help please tr7 with up down segment buttons

2010-02-16 Thread robert donchez

hi all
hope someone can give me some insight where to look
my tr7 - on 10 meters only -
when going to use the .5meg up - down buttons- do not function unless  
i move the band selector switch - or jiggle a little- so i assume the  
problem is related to the rotating band selector switch-  the up down  
buttons work flawlessly on all other bands
i have removed the case but there are so many segments to the  
rotating band switch, i dont even have a clue where to look for  
problem contact


tnx
bob donchez
wb3hyb

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