Re: [Drakelist] AC4 refurbishment

2011-02-11 Thread Henry Vredegoor

Hi Garey, All,

Thank you Garey for your answer.

I did do most of the obvious things for the R4C like some you 
mentioned, but not with a good result yet   :-(

I will have to go over it once more thoroughly I guess and follow your tips

But for the moment I have put aside the R4C and am concentrating on the 
AC4 refurbishment.
I want to have some status on the T4XC first, because I could not power 
it up at all yet.


The AC4 PSU I bought separately was dead and a mess when I opened it.
Leaked capacitors, modifications (repairs?), bad solder joints and loose 
connections.
Fortunately nothing blew up when I tried to power it up to measure its 
output voltages.

(Just the AC4, with a bridge at the plug; not connected to the T4XC!)

I have cleaned out the whole inside of the unit, keeping only the 
transformer, fuse holder, cinch socket, VOX connector and the cable 
assembly / plug.
I first considdered buying the AC4-R refurbishing kit, but got a good 
deal on some board with HV caps already fitted.
I could cut it in two (one half for the 650 Volt supply and the other 
half for the 250 Volt supply)  and to size and they fit nicely to the 
side panels of the AC4 chassis after removing the old caps fitted to the 
chassis.

.
I think I want to also modify it a little bit.
Fitting a 3 pin power socket, an extra DPDT mains switch on  the unit 
itself, fuses / fuse holders for all voltages, maybe a safety-relay for 
enabling the 650 Volt only when bias is present,  are some of the ideas.


I am waiting now for some parts that did not arrive yet so I think I'll 
give the R4C another try.


As for the tubes 6JF6, I will not use them at this time, if ever.

I'll keep you posted.

73's,

Henry - PA0HJA

On 2/9/2011 6:52 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

Henry -

The R-4C probably needs only a good cleaning/DeoxIT treatment.  
Primarily the rotary switches, but also the tube and crystal sockets.  
Go through with a screwdriver and check all chassis hardware, tube 
sockets, PC boards, terminal strips, shields, essentially every screw 
that goes into the chassis.  If not tight, tighten firmly, if tight, 
loosen slightly and retighten.  This should take care of most problems 
that occur in long term storage.


Follow the same process in the T-4XC, then troubleshoot what remains, 
if anything!


I believe the screws in the bottom of the AC-4 are 6-32 x 1/4 pan head.

The 6JF6 is a 'potential' replacement for the 6JB6.  It is the same 
base, slightly higher transconductance, BUT considerably higher 
interelement capacitances.  So they 'may' work, especially on the 
lower bands, but neutralization may be problematic.  It may be 
necessary to increase the value of C65 to bring the adjustment in range.


Don't hesitate to post here if you have more questions!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Henry Vredegoor wrote:

Hello All,

I am new to this list, but reading it for some time now.

I'm in the process of setting up/restoring/repairing a Drake 4C line:

R4C, I own this receiver for 35+ years, proved defective when I 
recently switched it on after some years of storage

T4XC, bought recently, sold as being defective
MN4, working OK
MS4, working OK
AC4, currently being refurbished by me

As all items were bought separately, I'm missing bits here and there, 
like the screws that mount the AC4 PSU in the MS4 cabinet from the 
bottom side.

I assume they are non-metric (M3/M4 do not fit).
Can anybody here on this list please tell me what thread/size they 
are, so I can order the right screws?

I could not find any info on this in the documentation.

I too have a second question.
With the AC4 came four spare tubes, supposedly usable as a 
replacement for the 6JB6A power tube, type 6JF6
Is this a direct drop-in replacement for the 6JB6A in the Drake 
T4XC or would I have to change (many-) things in the PA circuit 
(neutrodynisation etc.)  to be able to use these?


Any help appreciated.

73's,

Henry - PA0HJA




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Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7

2011-02-11 Thread Richard A. (Tony) Stalls

Tom,

I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back 
and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's 
Digital Automatic Frequency Control.  It's about $114.  Info on it 
can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de


Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided 
to not make any changes to my TR7.  It is what it is and I thought 
I'd leave it that way.  The best stability solution without doing 
open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're 
a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side.


73,
Tony
K4KYO

At 09:57 PM 2/10/2011, you wrote:

 Hi Gang,

  Here I am, stuck again. I purchased a Cambria Designs X-Lock 
frequency stabilizer for my TR-7, and need some help. Where is the 
best place to mount it? Is there a web site that shows an 
installation? Is this the one that uses the RIT line to make 
frequency corrections?


  PS,
 My R4 is serial # 0823

 Thanks for reading this... Tom Maguire, WD8JPP


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Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7

2011-02-11 Thread Joe Pyles


I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very 
well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom 
use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it.
  With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using 
it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if 
you want to make the radio back to original no one
  would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is 
far from open heart surgery you don't even have remove the top 
cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax
  cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the 
bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift.


  73 Joe KC9LAD




Tom,

I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back 
and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's 
Digital Automatic Frequency Control.  It's about $114.  Info on it 
can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de


Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided 
to not make any changes to my TR7.  It is what it is and I thought 
I'd leave it that way.  The best stability solution without doing 
open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although 
they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit 
on the pricey side.


73,
Tony
K4KYO


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[Drakelist] DOLLAR TUBES

2011-02-11 Thread Bry Carling
DOLLAR TUBES:

Pair of Planar Tubes - one is an Eimac 2C39 - the other looks the same but 
has a larger heatsink on top. Probably another brand of 2C39.
Will sell the pair for $2.00

2E26 tubes - good used. Will sell two for $2.00

Others: Cunningham 327 (looks new) - $1.00

RCA 6X5 - $1.00

Group of 5 tubes including a 2C51, 5670, 6C4, 6AL5 and a little triode 
(6C4?) - all 5 for $5.00

Philco 5V4 - $1.00

RCA 5Y3 - $1.00

OB2 regulator Sylvania - $1.00

6BM8 - ECL82 - Britain - $1.00

All of the above for $13.00 plus shipping

73 - Brian, AF4K

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