Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
This is all you need. Just did one a couple of months ago, works great! _http://www.theheathkitshop.com/page7/page7.html_ (http://www.theheathkitshop.com/page7/page7.html) 73/Paul, K4MSG n a message dated 2/24/2011 12:18:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wd9...@hotmail.com writes: Looks like it's time to rebuild my AC-4. Does anybody have references or suggestions? TNX ES 73, Jude WD9FUM = ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
Same for meeasy build, easy install, great performanceno-brainer. Dino KL0S On Feb242011, at 1222 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote: This is all you need. Just did one a couple of months ago, works great! http://www.theheathkitshop.com/page7/page7.html 73/Paul, K4MSG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
Jude, I too endorse highly the AC4R kit from Heathkit Shop, but would caution you as he will in the literature with the kit to be SURE that you are comfortable with working with the high voltage found in the kit. If so, it's the best!!! 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B No Standby or Mute
More troubleshooting on this one today. Pulled out the D6 diode and C11 and both checked OK on DVM and Heath Condenser checker so put parts back in and UNhooked the wire from C11 Neg side and Bias Voltage went from -45 to -135 ripple looks fine. Next I Hooked the wire back on C11 and UNhooked the white-red from the side of the RF gain pot. Now have -65 Volts at C11 (Where schematic says -80V) and S Meter is on 60 over in Standby (and all other positions). Hooked RF Gain (Red White that goes to Mode Switch) back on and C11 Voltage back to -45 V. Measured V5 voltages and all are OK except Pin 1 is -2.3 instead of -1.1. 70V and 110V and fil on the other pins are all OK. Something is pulling the bias down excessively it seems but I have run out of time and ideas for today. On Tue, Feb 22, 2011 at 11:32 AM, Paul Gerhardt phgerha...@gmail.com wrote: Got some time to poke at this some more. Voltage at V2 does not set up according to Sec 6.4.9 Bias and S-Meter Adj section of manual. 1. hook up meter 2. set -1.35 had to turn control all the way to get this voltage 3. S1 Adj sets 'ok' 4. Set -15 - very low like -3 Volts Going back to the power supply I am only getting -45V at the -80V test point, (C11 and D6) after the bias diode in the power supply. So either something is bad in the few bias supply components or something in the reading is 'dragging it down' B+ is good and both sides of power transformer ohm out the same so I think the transformer is OK. Ohming out the three diodes I get a much higher 'forward' resistance on the bias diode D6. like 15k one way and 30k the other way. The two B+ diodes have a much lower forward resistance so this may be a problem. Plan now will be to unhook the 'circuit' and see if bias goes up and if not look at D6 and C11 as R141 and R96 are both within tolerance. Any other thoughts B4 I remove the little power supply board? Paul - Same result if you unplug the MUTE cable at the receiver? FAST and/or SLOW the same? Possibly bad V1, V4 or V5, unplug one at a time. Does S-Meter go up to full scale? Voltage at TP-2? 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Paul Gerhardt wrote: My B-line has been working but today that after hooking it back up (was working on a TR-4) I noticed that the R-4b was not muting or going into Standby. In standby or ext mute (w/o short in RCA Mute)audio is distorted RF Gain only raises S Meter to 20 over or so. Something seems to have changed since I used it last a few weeks ago. Could this be a tube failing or ?? -- Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 -- Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
- Original Message - From: Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net To: memberservice...@live.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2011 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Jude, I too endorse highly the AC4R kit from Heathkit Shop, but would caution you as he will in the literature with the kit to be SURE that you are comfortable with working with the high voltage found in the kit. If so, it's the best!!! 73, Don, WB5HAK I've also installed a Heathkit Shop kit. Assembling the circuit board is very easy, and, in fact, installing it was pretty simple but the instructions for the final installation leave a lot to be desired. Nonetheless it all went pretty smoothly. The kit does not change the circuit; it simply replaces the caps with modern radial lead ones and replaces other parts which are likely to have fatigued. The bias circuit everyone warns about remains exactly the same other than the caps are replaced. In fact, you can get the original canned caps from some specialty places but it would probably cost as much as the kit and the kit will make future replacements easier. The high voltage in the Drake supply should be respected. The instructions want you to measure the voltage under unloaded conditions using a jumper to operate the supply without connecting it to the transmitter. Just be careful. While the filter caps have a bleeder on them they will hold a charge for a few minutes after power is removed. A charged cap without a bleeder will knock you across the room, they hold a lot of energy. I found the voltages given in the instructions to be optimistic and higher than the Drake info indicates (this was at the correct line voltage). Also, on mine the ripple was a bit higher than speced but also works fine. The instructions suggest leaving the original caps in place for appearance. I removed them from mine. Partly that is because the resulting holes in the chassis are useful for wiring and also because old electrolytic caps can eventually leak rather corrosive material. Its just as well to get rid of them. While you have the thing open clean the bias pot with some Deoxit, or better with the lubricant-cleaner made by the same people, Caig. Also, if you make any ground connections by soldering directly to the chassis you will need a _big_ iron. Not necessarily high wattage just one with a massive tip. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2-NT and Heathkit HG-10B
The 2-NT manual says it need 12 Volts RMS on 15 meters from a VFO to operate properly. The manual also mentions that the Heathkit HG-10B is suitable as an external VFO. The Heathkit manual says the output is 5v RMS open circuit. My 2-NT has less than 1 watt output on 15M and I beleive it is due to the low output of the Heathkit VFO (when using a 7.007 mHz xtal, it outputs full power). Any comments or experience from the members?? Thanks Jim___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
Jude, I just did one with that upgrade kit. Worked super. It will take a while. It is actually fun. Work slowly, carefully and when your not tired around high voltage. If your checking voltages live, keep one hand in your pocket (and don't lean on the chassis) :-) I am doing a L-4B PS now..in either case. One mistake and you may become SK. Oh, I also recommend using a digital camera to capture the before in detail before starting. 73, Lee Lee Simmonds Summit DCS LLC 260-799-4077 Office 260-403-6936 Cell -Original Message- From: Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net To: memberservices-6 memberservice...@live.com; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, Feb 24, 2011 12:59 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Jude, I too endorse highly the AC4R kit from Heathkit Shop, but would caution you as he will in the literature with the kit to be SURE that you are comfortable with working with the high voltage found in the kit. If so, it's the best!!! 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
Charles, Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with the Globe King 500A's other requirements. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com wrote: From: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] AC-4R kit
If you're using HIS kit, one HUGE caveat. His instructions are not very good, and he's really not in the mood to appreciate feedback, so here ya go: Follow his instructions for REMOVAL of all of the components to be replaced + remove ALL old caps (you don't need 'em - who cares what it looks like under the METAL SHIELD?...duh NOW - install the spacers and fit the board - leave ALL fasteners loose. Take the board back out. Now skip steps - lengthen all SECONDARY windings of the transformer (except for the filament - they've not been disconnected). RECONNECT all secondary windings to their pad points on the board. At this point most of the confusion is ended. You need only to connect the bias wires (he said they're white - he sent brown wire... no biggie), and the REMAINING wires from the output cable... small orange, small yellow, etc. After it's all hooked up, and you've checked your wiring - bring it up slowly on a Variac so IF you've messed up, you won't fry anything. Once you're happy, tighten up all the hardware, and put the case on. Tom D. - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
- Original Message - From: TC Dailey daileyservi...@qwest.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2011 9:01 PM Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit If you're using HIS kit, one HUGE caveat. His instructions are not very good, and he's really not in the mood to appreciate feedback, so here ya go: Follow his instructions for REMOVAL of all of the components to be replaced + remove ALL old caps (you don't need 'em - who cares what it looks like under the METAL SHIELD?...duh NOW - install the spacers and fit the board - leave ALL fasteners loose. Take the board back out. Now skip steps - lengthen all SECONDARY windings of the transformer (except for the filament - they've not been disconnected). RECONNECT all secondary windings to their pad points on the board. At this point most of the confusion is ended. You need only to connect the bias wires (he said they're white - he sent brown wire... no biggie), and the REMAINING wires from the output cable... small orange, small yellow, etc. After it's all hooked up, and you've checked your wiring - bring it up slowly on a Variac so IF you've messed up, you won't fry anything. Once you're happy, tighten up all the hardware, and put the case on. Tom D. - WØEAJ As the guy says! I add to make a drawing of the old wiring before starting out. The instructions for loading the board are OK but the wiring instructions are not and can be pretty confusing. I did NOT make a drawing, being too trusting, and was quite frustrated when I discovered the description of the wiring in the kit instructions made no sense. I also second removing the old caps, they are not needed and might leak later. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring
I've sent this out before but looks like it could help again. Some years ago Hewlet Packard has their repair and calibration lab in Fullerton, CA. and I had the opportunity to visit the facility doing a walk through where they take equipment in for repair and all they do to bring the units up to speed and operational. It seems they make sure the unit is working and then take simple green and bathe the whole unit down. The unit was then scrubbed with brushes to get the big pieces off, then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water to remove all grease, girt, and whatever else was there. Once the unit is completely clean the equipment is placed in a large oven at 150-200 degs for several days unit the unit is completely dry. Once its dry the unit is again tested and any/all repairs, alignment and calibration was performed. Once the unit was done it looked brand-new. So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. 73's, De WA6HYQ. -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Morrell Siegel Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 9:13 PM To: DRAKE LIST Subject: [Drakelist] restoring thanks to all that offered advice. looks like the dishwasher is out. the next few weeks with theq tips and tooth brush, a little at a time. mckey wa6fiz ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
