Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Bob Spooner
Ron,

Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they don't have that
problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.) It's the new rigs
that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface mount components
would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your vintage Drake
radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the new one fails.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

All,
I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and document.  For
those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a higher tin content
and can causes tin whisker growth issues.   Who knows when it might strike
your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio.  Maybe we should all
return to hollow state  :-)

http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/

Totally amazing IMO.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Curt
From what I've been seeing in the basic design of some newer radios on 
my repair bench, tin whiskers is the LEAST of your worries regarding 
longevity!   One only needs to research the problems of the TS2000 and 
the IC 746pro to realize there are some real service/design issues out 
there.


Curt
KU8L


On 11/1/2011 7:47 AM, Bob Spooner wrote:

Ron,

Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they don't have that
problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.) It's the new rigs
that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface mount components
would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your vintage Drake
radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the new one fails.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

All,
I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and document.  For
those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a higher tin content
and can causes tin whisker growth issues.   Who knows when it might strike
your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio.  Maybe we should all
return to hollow state  :-)

http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/

Totally amazing IMO.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Paul Christensen
A consequence of RoHS compliance.  The problem has already been documented 
with N8LP's LP-100 display board (PLED version).  Display segments begin 
failing, one-by-one until the display becomes very difficult to read.  Not 
sure if there's been any recent developments concerning chemical or process 
improvements to lessen the severity of the "whiskering."


I have spools of Kester clean solder, and a spool with 2% silver -- neither 
of them flow very well.  I'm inclined to stay with Kester 44 60/40 solder 
from this point forward.


Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Spooner" 

To: "'Ron'" ; 
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics



Ron,

Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they don't have 
that

problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.) It's the new rigs
that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface mount 
components

would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your vintage Drake
radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the new one fails.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]

On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

All,
I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and document.  For
those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a higher tin content
and can causes tin whisker growth issues.   Who knows when it might strike
your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio.  Maybe we should all
return to hollow state  :-)

http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/

Totally amazing IMO.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Bob Spooner
Paul,

Both the lead-free solder and especially the silver solder require higher
temperatures (maybe high-temperature flux as well?) to create a proper
solder joint. This makes soldering without damaging a component or PC board
trace more difficult. An ESD soldering iron with temperature control is a
necessary tool for RoHS compliant work. But I wouldn't want to try to work
on my TR7A without an ESD soldering iron either. For tube gear it isn't a
problem.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 9:08 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

A consequence of RoHS compliance.  The problem has already been documented 
with N8LP's LP-100 display board (PLED version).  Display segments begin 
failing, one-by-one until the display becomes very difficult to read.  Not 
sure if there's been any recent developments concerning chemical or process 
improvements to lessen the severity of the "whiskering."

I have spools of Kester clean solder, and a spool with 2% silver -- neither 
of them flow very well.  I'm inclined to stay with Kester 44 60/40 solder 
from this point forward.

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Spooner" 
To: "'Ron'" ; 
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics


> Ron,
>
> Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they don't have 
> that
> problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.) It's the new rigs
> that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface mount 
> components
> would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your vintage Drake
> radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the new one fails.
>
> 73,
> Bob AD3K
>
> -Original Message-
> From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
> [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics
>
> All,
> I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and document.  For
> those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a higher tin content
> and can causes tin whisker growth issues.   Who knows when it might strike
> your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio.  Maybe we should all
> return to hollow state  :-)
>
> http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/
>
> Totally amazing IMO.
>
> 73,
> Ron WD8SBB
>
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>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Curt

Look into a product called ChipQuick.  http://www.chipquik.com/

It is a solder alloy with a low melting temperatue.  When applied to a 
normal solder joint, below the normal solder melting temp, it causes the 
existing solder to also melt at about 150 degrees and stay melted long 
enough to remove multi-pin devices.  The video is a good overview.  This 
stuff is rapidly taking place of regular desodlering equipment in rework 
situations.  Not inexpensive but a little goes a long way.


Curt
KU8L


On 11/1/2011 8:53 AM, Bob Spooner wrote:

Paul,

Both the lead-free solder and especially the silver solder require higher
temperatures (maybe high-temperature flux as well?) to create a proper
solder joint. This makes soldering without damaging a component or PC board
trace more difficult. An ESD soldering iron with temperature control is a
necessary tool for RoHS compliant work. But I wouldn't want to try to work
on my TR7A without an ESD soldering iron either. For tube gear it isn't a
problem.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 9:08 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

A consequence of RoHS compliance.  The problem has already been documented
with N8LP's LP-100 display board (PLED version).  Display segments begin
failing, one-by-one until the display becomes very difficult to read.  Not
sure if there's been any recent developments concerning chemical or process
improvements to lessen the severity of the "whiskering."

I have spools of Kester clean solder, and a spool with 2% silver -- neither
of them flow very well.  I'm inclined to stay with Kester 44 60/40 solder
from this point forward.

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message -
From: "Bob Spooner"
To: "'Ron'";
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics



Ron,

Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they don't have
that
problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.) It's the new rigs
that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface mount
components
would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your vintage Drake
radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the new one fails.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

All,
I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and document.  For
those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a higher tin content
and can causes tin whisker growth issues.   Who knows when it might strike
your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio.  Maybe we should all
return to hollow state  :-)

http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/

Totally amazing IMO.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Ron
The tin whisker growing inside the transistor case that NASA discusses in the 
article is 45 yrs old.  It is not just the solder or the new components that 
have potential to be affected.

http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/index.html

--- On Tue, 11/1/11, Bob Spooner  wrote:

> From: Bob Spooner 
> Subject: RE: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics
> To: "'Ron'" , drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Date: Tuesday, November 1, 2011, 8:47 AM
> Ron,
> 
> Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they
> don't have that
> problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.)
> It's the new rigs
> that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface
> mount components
> would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your
> vintage Drake
> radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the
> new one fails.
> 
> 73,
> Bob AD3K
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
> [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state
> electronics
> 
> All,
> I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and
> document.  For
> those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a
> higher tin content
> and can causes tin whisker growth
> issues.   Who knows when it might strike
> your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio. 
> Maybe we should all
> return to hollow state  :-)
> 
> http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/
> 
> Totally amazing IMO.
> 
> 73,
> Ron WD8SBB
> 
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> 

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Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics

2011-11-01 Thread Steve Wedge
While this has crept into design of our radios over the past 25 years or so 
(remember the ICOMs that "forgot they were radios" when the internal battery 
died?), it has been a part of commercial test equipment for a longer period.  
Once the custom parts are gone, a dead piece becomes a parts-donor.  I'll be 
sad on the day when my TEK 465B finally dies, but that scope - from the 70's - 
is chock-a-block full of custom chips that are now made of unobtanium.

A day will come when a TEK 465B or an IC 746-Pro in working condition will be 
come a collectors piece worthy of a healthy price.

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
>From: Curt 
>Sent: Nov 1, 2011 9:59 AM
>To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
>Subject: Re: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics
>
> From what I've been seeing in the basic design of some newer radios on 
>my repair bench, tin whiskers is the LEAST of your worries regarding 
>longevity!   One only needs to research the problems of the TS2000 and 
>the IC 746pro to realize there are some real service/design issues out 
>there.
>
>Curt
>KU8L
>
>
>On 11/1/2011 7:47 AM, Bob Spooner wrote:
>> Ron,
>>
>> Vintage radios were made with regular leaded solder so they don't have that
>> problem (unless you repair them with lead free solder.) It's the new rigs
>> that I'm concerned about. Tin whisker growth under surface mount components
>> would be very difficult to detect and remove. So keep your vintage Drake
>> radios operational and you won't be without a rig if the new one fails.
>>
>> 73,
>> Bob AD3K
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
>> On Behalf Of Ron
>> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:46 PM
>> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> Subject: [Drakelist] OT a failure mode of solid state electronics
>>
>> All,
>> I was tooling around the web and ran into this video and document.  For
>> those unfamiliar, the new lead free solder often has a higher tin content
>> and can causes tin whisker growth issues.   Who knows when it might strike
>> your beloved solid state or hybrid vintage radio.  Maybe we should all
>> return to hollow state  :-)
>>
>> http://www.vintage-radio.info/whiskers/
>>
>> Totally amazing IMO.
>>
>> 73,
>> Ron WD8SBB
>>
>> ___
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>>
>>
>>
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>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-11-01 Thread Robert Fish

Hi Guys,
I have good news to report. I have the PTO back in the T-4XC and it is 
working fine. It turned out to be the hardened grease in the PTO ball 
bearings causing the chirp and warbling after all. It didn't seem to be 
a plausible cause to me for the symptoms I was experiencing. But before 
I started changing parts out, I decided to clean the ball bearings and 
the drive screw and it did the trick. AS for the PTO not working after I 
reinstalled it into the transmitter, it turned out to be an intermitant 
connection on the center tap of the PTO coil. Gary told me to check it. 
Visually it looked OK, but when I pressed on the connection, the 
oscillator came alive on the scope screen. Gary is amazing he can repair 
radios from thousands of miles away. So I cleaned up the connection and 
reflowed it. It is back in the T-4XC and working great now.


In fact, right after I got everything back together I heard ZK2V on 10 
meters running split. A perfect opportunity to test the Transmitter PTO. 
He was calling for just EU for a while, but when he asked for USA I 
started calling 3kc up. I got him on the 3rd or 4th call. That's a new 
one for me. Niue, I think it is an island down in the south Pacific 
somewhere. Not very difficult for me on the west coast but, stil a good 
test for the PTO. This was only 15 or 20 minutes ago, he is still there 
on 28011 if your interested.


Anyway that's the end of this adventure. You guys will hear from me 
again next time I break something.


73,

Bob  K6GGO


Hi Guys,
Here is an update on my T-4XC PTO adventure. I eventually removed the 
PTO from the transmitter and put it in a panavise on my bench, powered 
it up and listened to it on my TR-7 with a sniffer wire. While 
monitoring the tone, I tapped on the rod that carries the ferrite 
slug. It would make the frequency change and stay on the new frequency 
every time I tapped it. As an experiment, I opened up the R-4C and 
tapped on the end of the slug shaft on it. On the R-4C, the frequency 
would change but always return to the original freq. To make a long 
story short, I found hardened grease in the ball bearing races. I 
cleaned the ball bearings, races and the drive screw with denatured 
alcohol. The frequency returns to the same tone now every time I tap 
it and the warbling is gone when I turn the knob. I was and am 
convinced I fixed the problem.


Here is the part where Murphy rears his ugly head. I put the PTO back 
together and reinstalled it in the T-4XC and 
presto!!what? dead silence. I used the PTO to control 
the R-4C still dead silence. I checked power and ground it looks 
fine but still, nary an oscillation from the PTO. So I unsoldered the 
wires and hauled it's sorry a?!%#$  back onto the bench. Powered it up 
and still nothing.
Obviously, I hosed it somehow during the re-install. I looked for a 
solder problem around the output terminal it looked ok, but there were 
a couple of strands of wire from the old connection that the solder 
sucker (me) missed, but they weren't touching anything. Maybe they 
were touching something when it was installed, I don't know.


At any rate, its dead now and I suspect a semiconductor. here are my 
questions: (about time eh?)


I have the diodes in stock but not the FET or the buffer transistor. 
If I have to make a Digikey (or Mouser)  order anyway, maybe I should 
just shot gun the thing and put in all new parts except the coils.
I also have a PTO from a parts rig that has issues. I would like to 
rebuild it as well. Will I get into problems with tolerance stackups? 
I suspect that is why there are "select at test" caps in there.


Can I replace the coax that goes from the PTO output to the wafer 
switch with RG-174? (to give myself a small service loop, to make the 
re-install easier)


If it turns out to be a cap, or if I shotgun it, is there a modern 
replacement for those horseshoe caps?


Is there anything special about the temperature compensating caps, 
like a backwards temp coefficient for bucking freq drift or something? 
Is there an easy replacement for those?


Sorry for the long post about my epic struggle against the evil Murphy.
If the 49ers hadn't won, it truly would have been a lost weekend.

Thanks as always,

Bob  K6GGO



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 40, Issue 59

2011-11-01 Thread Paul Gerhardt
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:11:50 -0400
> From: Paul Gerhardt 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Poor Transmit
> Message-ID:
>        
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Still playing with swapping the power supplies and today got a 'good'
> audio report with the AC-3.  I noticed that the OA2 dims a bit with
> the AC3 but goes dark on transmit with the AC4 (which gave 'bad' audio
> report).  Does anyone know what the normal 'look' of the OA2 is when
> switching into Transmit?
>
> Next the meter will come out to check the voltages.  What are normal
> ripple reading on a modern DVM?
>


OK this page has a good rundown on checking the P/S voltages

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/PowerSupplyTroubleshooting.htm


Basically it says:
 2V AC or less on the 700V B+
 1VAC or less on the 250V B+
  .5V or less on thebias


On the original stock AC-3

I am getting LOTS of AC on the 700V  DVM is jumping between 3hundred
something and 4 hundred something.  Old Radio Shack Analog meter pegs
on the 1000VAC scale?!  Yet Audio still sounds at least OK?!
4VAC on the 250V line
.9VAC on the bias line

So at least one of the HV Caps is probably bad.
The transformer is pretty warm too after a few hours.  I can hold my
hand on it but after 30 sec or so it is uncomfortably warm maybe
120-130F.  This is probably warmer than it should be as the unit is
not transmitting.

As the AC-4 is receiving Bad Audio reports and the AC-3 is not I think
both supplies must be in need of recapping.

Well they are both close to 50 years old.  Will put the meter on the AC-4 later.

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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 40, Issue 59

2011-11-01 Thread Bob Spooner
Paul,

If the OA2 is going dark on transmit it means the circuit is going out of
regulation, so there's probably lots of ripple on what is supposed to be a
regulated DC voltage. That could be the source of your bad audio reports.
The OA2 is a shunt regulator and will dim with increased current draw, but
it shouldn't go out. You could have some dry or leaky electrolytic
capacitors and/or some resistors that have changed value.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Gerhardt
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 4:34 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 40, Issue 59

> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:11:50 -0400
> From: Paul Gerhardt 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Poor Transmit
> Message-ID:
>      
 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Still playing with swapping the power supplies and today got a 'good'
> audio report with the AC-3.  I noticed that the OA2 dims a bit with
> the AC3 but goes dark on transmit with the AC4 (which gave 'bad' audio
> report).  Does anyone know what the normal 'look' of the OA2 is when
> switching into Transmit?
>
> Next the meter will come out to check the voltages.  What are normal
> ripple reading on a modern DVM?
>


OK this page has a good rundown on checking the P/S voltages

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/PowerSupplyTroubleshootin
g.htm


Basically it says:
 2V AC or less on the 700V B+
 1VAC or less on the 250V B+
  .5V or less on thebias


On the original stock AC-3

I am getting LOTS of AC on the 700V  DVM is jumping between 3hundred
something and 4 hundred something.  Old Radio Shack Analog meter pegs
on the 1000VAC scale?!  Yet Audio still sounds at least OK?!
4VAC on the 250V line
.9VAC on the bias line

So at least one of the HV Caps is probably bad.
The transformer is pretty warm too after a few hours.  I can hold my
hand on it but after 30 sec or so it is uncomfortably warm maybe
120-130F.  This is probably warmer than it should be as the unit is
not transmitting.

As the AC-4 is receiving Bad Audio reports and the AC-3 is not I think
both supplies must be in need of recapping.

Well they are both close to 50 years old.  Will put the meter on the AC-4
later.

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[Drakelist] Overload

2011-11-01 Thread Neil M Califano
I located a crystal to cover 1 to 1.5 Mhz, below preselector range for my Drake 
4A. Some MW stations are tunable down to 1.3 mhz, but there a few very strong 
broadcasters just under 1.5 Mhz and I hear a lot of static crashing. Is the 
front end overloading? I realize an AM table radio is only a few dollars, but 
it is convenient to tune them in on the R4A. 

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[Drakelist] Side Tone Adjustment for TR4CW Possible?

2011-11-01 Thread Michael A. Kelly
Howdy,

I had a 12AV6 tube (V2) go soft and after replacing it the "chirpy"
audio for the side tone went away, (no chirp on the transmitted
signal, just on my end) but the new side tone pitch is higher than I
prefer.  Is there an way to adjust the side tone audio to get it down
in the 700-750 Hz range? (not volume, but pitch)

Thanks,

Michael N4MAK

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[Drakelist] R-4B s/n 15533B is done!

2011-11-01 Thread Steve Wedge
Just did the alignment on R-4B 15533B - sounds great!

I re-capped this one using the Hayseed Hamfest Re-cap Kit; everything fit as it 
should and looks great.  

This one got a bath and sauna, then re-lube, all tubes checked and an 
alignment.  The trimmers for 80m were set to tightest, so re-doing the rf 
peaking with the slugs level and at the right frequency  resolved that issue.  
There were no other parts to replace on this one and it's a late-enough 
production that it has all G10 boards in it, so it should outlast me!

Amazingly, when teamed up with my T-4XB (also a B-suffix: see, I DO get lucky 
sometimes!) the transceive alignment was nearly dead-on.  C61 required less 
than 1/4 turn and that was more to prove to myself that it was right on the 
money from the git-go.

The only fly in the ointment with this one was the large rust spot to the right 
of the PTO in the front corner.  This I sanded to remove as much rust as 
possible and tried something new: Testor's copper-colored model paint.  It's a 
very close match but, of course, the reflectivity is very different from the 
copper plating.  Still, it does look a lot better than the rust spot, and the 
paint should keep it from rusting any further.

I hope to remember to check into the net on Sunday with this new combo.

Now to tear into that heavily-modified "B".  That one will go up for sale once 
I'm done with it.

Enjoy Those Drakes...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-11-01 Thread Steve Wedge
I sometimes have to remind myself: Occam's Razor is my friend.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



From: Robert Fish 
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 3:22 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps


Hi Guys,
I have good news to report. I have the PTO back in the T-4XC and it is working 
fine. It turned out to be the hardened grease in the PTO ball bearings causing 
the chirp and warbling after all. It didn't seem to be a plausible cause to me 
for the symptoms I was experiencing. But before I started changing parts out, I 
decided to clean the ball bearings and the drive screw and it did the trick. AS 
for the PTO not working after I reinstalled it into the transmitter, it turned 
out to be an intermitant connection on the center tap of the PTO coil. Gary 
told me to check it. Visually it looked OK, but when I pressed on the 
connection, the oscillator came alive on the scope screen. Gary is amazing he 
can repair radios from thousands of miles away. So I cleaned up the connection 
and reflowed it. It is back in the T-4XC and working great now.

In fact, right after I got everything back together I heard ZK2V on 10 meters 
running split. A perfect opportunity to test the Transmitter PTO. He was 
calling for just EU for a while, but when he asked for USA I started calling 
3kc up. I got him on the 3rd or 4th call. That's a new one for me. Niue, I 
think it is an island down in the south Pacific somewhere. Not very difficult 
for me on the west coast but, stil a good test for the PTO. This was only 15 or 
20 minutes ago, he is still there on 28011 if your interested.

Anyway that's the end of this adventure. You guys will hear from me again next 
time I break something.

73,

Bob  K6GGO


  Hi Guys,
  Here is an update on my T-4XC PTO adventure. I eventually removed the PTO 
from the transmitter and put it in a panavise on my bench, powered it up and 
listened to it on my TR-7 with a sniffer wire. While monitoring the tone, I 
tapped on the rod that carries the ferrite slug. It would make the frequency 
change and stay on the new frequency every time I tapped it. As an experiment, 
I opened up the R-4C and tapped on the end of the slug shaft on it. On the 
R-4C, the frequency would change but always return to the original freq. To 
make a long story short, I found hardened grease in the ball bearing races. I 
cleaned the ball bearings, races and the drive screw with denatured alcohol. 
The frequency returns to the same tone now every time I tap it and the warbling 
is gone when I turn the knob. I was and am convinced I fixed the problem.

  Here is the part where Murphy rears his ugly head. I put the PTO back 
together and reinstalled it in the T-4XC and presto!!what? dead 
silence. I used the PTO to control the R-4C still dead silence. I checked 
power and ground it looks fine but still, nary an oscillation from the PTO. So 
I unsoldered the wires and hauled it's sorry a?!%#$  back onto the bench. 
Powered it up and still nothing.
  Obviously, I hosed it somehow during the re-install. I looked for a solder 
problem around the output terminal it looked ok, but there were a couple of 
strands of wire from the old connection that the solder sucker (me) missed, but 
they weren't touching anything. Maybe they were touching something when it was 
installed, I don't know.

  At any rate, its dead now and I suspect a semiconductor. here are my 
questions: (about time eh?)

  I have the diodes in stock but not the FET or the buffer transistor. If I 
have to make a Digikey (or Mouser)  order anyway, maybe I should just shot gun 
the thing and put in all new parts except the coils.
  I also have a PTO from a parts rig that has issues. I would like to rebuild 
it as well. Will I get into problems with tolerance stackups? I suspect that is 
why there are "select at test" caps in there. 

  Can I replace the coax that goes from the PTO output to the wafer switch with 
RG-174? (to give myself a small service loop, to make the re-install easier)

  If it turns out to be a cap, or if I shotgun it, is there a modern 
replacement for those horseshoe caps?

  Is there anything special about the temperature compensating caps, like a 
backwards temp coefficient for bucking freq drift or something? Is there an 
easy replacement for those?

  Sorry for the long post about my epic struggle against the evil Murphy.
  If the 49ers hadn't won, it truly would have been a lost weekend.

  Thanks as always,

  Bob  K6GGO









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Re: [Drakelist] Side Tone Adjustment for TR4CW Possible?

2011-11-01 Thread Mark Nace
Mike,
I think it's an audio phase-shift oscillator, so guess you would need to change 
some of the R-C values to get a lower freq.  

Others will give better thoughts I am sure.  
73
Mark
N5KAE




- Original Message 
> From: Michael A. Kelly 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Sent: Tue, November 1, 2011 8:49:00 PM
> Subject: [Drakelist] Side Tone Adjustment for TR4CW Possible?
> 
> Howdy,
> 
> I had a 12AV6 tube (V2) go soft and after replacing it the "chirpy"
> audio for the side tone went away, (no chirp on the transmitted
> signal, just on my end) but the new side tone pitch is higher than I
> prefer.  Is there an way to adjust the side tone audio to get it down
> in the 700-750 Hz range? (not volume, but pitch)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Michael N4MAK
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
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Re: [Drakelist] Overload

2011-11-01 Thread Don Cunningham

Neil,
These old Drake rigs are communications rig, not general coverage SW rigs. 
Drake did make models that are, but not your R4A.  There are circuits to 
deliberately block these "strong AM stations" so that they do not interfere 
on 160m (1.8 to 2.0) or their images on 80m even.  Without defeating the 
input filtering, you are just stuck with what the Drake designers had to 
fight, AM interference from strong broadcasters on the lower ham bands. 
Neil, I mean this in a positive way, so don't take it any other way, but you 
ask an awful lot of questions and it would be helpful if we know if you are 
a ham or not, and some about yourself so we have an idea of your level of 
radio knowledge.  That way we don't give dumb answers and can tailor 
questions better to that level.  I am an old, retired educator and always 
did a better job knowing what my students knew.

73,
Don, 



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