[Drakelist] Cool discussion..
Very cool discussion for Drake fans.. I glued a couple of very quiet Arctic F12 120mm together, wired in series to an old surplus wall wart and use them on top of all my vintage valve equipment. They're cheap, quiet, have fluid dynamic bearings for longevity and can be flipped over for suck or blow... you can pick them up on Ebay for $8.80 a piece shipped.. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ARCTIC-COOLING-Arctic-F12-PWM-120-mm-120mm-Case-Fan-/380237785094?cmd=ViewItempt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item5887f02806 Doc Halo.net: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] PWM fan hash..
Shortly after my posting on the Arctic F series fan, Garey raised the issue of PWM RFI. As it turns out, there are several models in the F series.. some with and some without the WPM feature. (see http://www.arctic-cooling.com/catalog/support_download.php) As an afterthought, I included an Ebay link to an Arctic F12 WPM fan which, after reflection, may have been a bad, albeit well intentioned, suggestion. This particular model has a built-in WPM amp which, as Garey appropriately pointed out, might have some associated circuitry which could generate RFI. So if you do consider the Arctic F series for cooling your equipment, I'd suggest the older model without the WPM amp. Comments and opinions welcomed! Doc Hi Doc - I looked at the fans you referenced below. They mention PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) which is a way to control fan speed by the 'duty cycle' of the applied AC. It says there is a PWM 'amplifier' in the fan, which should be silent, but I wonder if there are other associated electronics in there which might generate RFI? I assume you haven't experienced any problem, but I wonder if you have ever probed or listened for RFI when they are in operation? 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com halo.net wrote: Very cool discussion for Drake fans.. I glued a couple of very quiet Arctic F12 120mm together, wired in series to an old surplus wall wart and use them on top of all my vintage valve equipment. They're cheap, quiet, have fluid dynamic bearings for longevity and can be flipped over for suck or blow... you can pick them up on Ebay for $8.80 a piece shipped.. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ARCTIC-COOLING-Arctic-F12-PWM-120-mm-120mm-Case-Fan-/380237785094?cmd=ViewItempt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item5887f02806 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ARCTIC-COOLING-Arctic-F12-PWM-120-mm-120mm-Case-Fan-/380237785094?cmd=ViewItempt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item5887f02806 Doc Halo.net: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Strike an impedance match...
Gents, Would appreciate any comments matching up the TR-7 4 ohm audio output to a much higher headset impedance... thinking about going with a boom mic but headset is well over 100 ohms Thanks, Doc ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Stinky feet..
Thanks for replies to my big foot query.. helpful suggestions all. I had initially found a couple of these extenders on a vintage rig off Ebay and liked the quick 'n easy press-on installation. As Grant correctly pointed out, they are, in fact, metal rather than plastic so I haven't had the outgassing problem Evan mentioned. All of my equipment is vintage tube so adequate ventilation is always a consideration not to mention the fact that it's just a whole lot easier to read the analog dials with the front panel elevated. As always, thanks to each for your comments. Doc Halo.net website: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] BIG FOOT?
Anyone give me a lead on where to find feet extender shells? I'd like to get a few sets of the enlongated plastic shells that press onto existing front rubber feet on Drake equipment to elevate the front. Thanks in advance.. Doc ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[drakelist] #12 bulb
Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Garey, What is the function of that #12 bulb over the relay.. impedance matching? one of my TR-3 rigs doesn't have it and seems to work fine Doc WB6WAD/OA8AO Halo.net Website: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ === At 2007-12-12, 06:19:00 you wrote: === Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- You can buy them for about $10 on E*, or you can buy them for $1.50 at Bulb Direct or one of the many on-line bulb sellers. Not likely to find them locally, unless you have a real electronics distributor. Not likely these days.! Most of these places have a $5-6 shipping charge, so you might want to get an order together, say a box of 755 bulbs to replace all those 47s! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Hunter Ellington wrote: Hunter Ellington [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Where does one get the #12 bulb? R. Hunter Ellington, Esq. Shareholder Gorrell Giles PC 1331 Seventeenth Street, Suite 1000 Denver, Colorado 80202 (303) 996-6585 Direct (303) 996-2680 Fax [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2007-12-12 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: Re: [drakelist] New TR-3 owner
Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Garey, I just noticed that the #12 doesn't appear on the schematics of one manual and on another it does.. fuse? Doc WB6WAD/OA8AO Halo.net Website: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ === At 2007-12-12, 06:19:00 you wrote: === Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- You can buy them for about $10 on E*, or you can buy them for $1.50 at Bulb Direct or one of the many on-line bulb sellers. Not likely to find them locally, unless you have a real electronics distributor. Not likely these days.! Most of these places have a $5-6 shipping charge, so you might want to get an order together, say a box of 755 bulbs to replace all those 47s! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Hunter Ellington wrote: Hunter Ellington [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Where does one get the #12 bulb? R. Hunter Ellington, Esq. Shareholder Gorrell Giles PC 1331 Seventeenth Street, Suite 1000 Denver, Colorado 80202 (303) 996-6585 Direct (303) 996-2680 Fax [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2007-12-12 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: Re: [drakelist] #12 bulb
Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks for quick reply.. finding that builb missing from earlier schematics suggested a later add-on safety feature as you describe. Monitoring all these reflector exchanges is like taking a Drake 101 course. Thanks for your invaluable input. Doc WB6WAD/OA8AO Halo.net Website: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ === At 2007-12-12, 09:48:49 you wrote: === Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Doc - The bulb is a sort of 'fuse' to protect the front end of the receiver. It's not likely to blow, but does act as a resistance in series with the input antenna coil in the presence of high level RF. I think of it more as a current limiter just in case you pull up next to a ham with a KW in the next car! The early TR-3s didn't have it, so I can only assume that it was added after some field experiences indicated it would be worth adding. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Halo.net wrote: Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Garey, What is the function of that #12 bulb over the relay.. impedance matching? one of my TR-3 rigs doesn't have it and seems to work fine Doc WB6WAD/OA8AO Halo.net Website: http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ === At 2007-12-12, 06:19:00 you wrote: === Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- You can buy them for about $10 on E*, or you can buy them for $1.50 at Bulb Direct or one of the many on-line bulb sellers. Not likely to find them locally, unless you have a real electronics distributor. Not likely these days.! Most of these places have a $5-6 shipping charge, so you might want to get an order together, say a box of 755 bulbs to replace all those 47s! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Hunter Ellington wrote: Hunter Ellington [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Where does one get the #12 bulb? R. Hunter Ellington, Esq. Shareholder Gorrell Giles PC 1331 Seventeenth Street, Suite 1000 Denver, Colorado 80202 (303) 996-6585 Direct (303) 996-2680 Fax [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2007-12-12 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2007-12-12 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: Re: [drakelist] Cap rating
Garey;, Thanks for your input on the neutralization cap.. I agree that this TR-3 is one of the earlier models and appears to differ in several areas from another later model I have (SN:12478). I appreciate your willingness to check over your own inventory but I'm sure I can locate these items if they were used on the rest of the TR series. Lots of luck on getting organized after your move.. I'm still pulling stuff out of 30 year storage and trying to find places to put it. In fact, while trying to find that air cap replacement I ran across a bakelte Dejur in my shack.. now how old is that? Doc Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Doc - Wow, not pretty! :-) The original was a ceramic trimmer of 3 - 50 pF, with a single 27 pF 1 kV cap in series with it. This is the neutralization cap and so has to handle the full plate voltage (700 VDC no load) plus peak RF voltage. This must be a very early TR-3 (s/n 4000) to have the ceramic trimmer in that position. Later units used a small air variable here, a Hammarlund MAPC, 2.7 - 8.4 pF, with a 12.5 pF @ 2KV disc ceramic in parallel. I suspect they had problems with that ceramic trimmer breaking down (as did Collins in early 75S-1s) and changed to the air variable. The same air variable and parallel cap was used throughout the rest of the TR-3/4 series, so you can get one from just about any parts unit. If you can't find one, I may have one here somewhere. I'm not too well organized after the move! Ya really shouldn't move after 25 years on one house, especially if you're a pack rat..! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA attachment: dejur.JPG
Re: Re: [drakelist] TR-3 relay choke question..
Carey, thanks for link.. I had actually gone there before and looked but didn't see the small choke tucked next to the relay.. that answers my question. Doc i went here ant there are two pics that show both chokes not the best butt maybe it will help http://www.jvgavila.com/tr3.htm Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.kc5gtt.com
[drakelist] TR-3 antenna relay kit
Regarding the kit for the TR-3/4 antenna relay.. The open frame type relay is no longer available. John Kriner wrote me that Drake could not buy them when they were still servicing this unit, so they made a kit that allowed the installation of a plug in relay. John has all the kits that they had left, but they are not complete. What he can provide is the circuit board that accepts the relay but not the relay itself.. this can be gotten at Mouser for about $17. See http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=655-R10-E1Y4-V2.5K+ The kit is a small circuit board on which the enclosed relay, purchased independently, sits.. Cost: $25 plus $5 to ship. Contact John Kriner at [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can get an idea of what the kit looks like from my Projects Page at : http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/ Keep your contacts clean and have a great day.. we're busy fighting wildfires here in smokey So. Cal. Doc
[drakelist] TR-4 relay antenna
Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- John Kriner sells a kit which converts the TR-4 frame relay to an enclosed antenna relay.. I'll send along details if interested. Doc === At 2007-10-24, 13:00:38 you wrote: === Gary Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Dale, The TR-4 relay is prone to problems with dirty contacts since it is not enclosed. Verify the relay contact continuity in the transmitt position. Be careful not to over do it if you find you need to tweak the contacts to make reliable connection. You can usually troubleshoot the relay with an ohm meter, power off, and press the relay closed with a pencil. 73, Gary -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2007-10-24 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: Re: [drakelist] An Introduction a question about keyer for T-4XB
Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Gents, I just caught the tail end of this discussion but if it's about keyers Drakes, Jackson-Harbor has a keyer kit that includes a heavy duty relay for keying older rigs with higher currents.. I just put one together and am very happy with it.. here's the project page. http://mysite.verizon.net/halo.net/halo05.html 73's, Doc [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Edmund H. Ramm) made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Doug Smith writes: I have a 1960's era Hallicrafters TO Keyer with a Vibroplex Vibrokeyer [...] Same here, HA-1 plus Vibrokeyer. And this thread's originator Jeff, KC2OBG might wish to check http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf prior to forking out green stuff for a dual paddle. 73, Eddi ._._. -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2007-10-23 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] TR-4 pot
Halo.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Gents.. I'm new to the list and am not sure just how to break into your 2B exchange with a question about a TR-4. Is there a better place to post a general question for the list? Thanks Doc WB6WAD === At 2007-09-28, 18:04:31 you wrote: === Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi John - K5MO, and John, W1JA; Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is sometimes very noisy. Wonder if the AC line is used for other things besides power (BPL) ? I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B is a lot more fun to fix. Don't know where to start... Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK) For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with soap and water, rinse and dry. sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust. Apply Rust Converter from Walmart. Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer. Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart) and sand. Repeat till smooth. Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or apply with q-tip or toothpick. (I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match) *IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate is protected with clear spray that will cloud up if you disturb it. CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-( Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint. Punch holes in bottom of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint. Glossy black #1601 really looks good on screws. I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front, sides and back of chassis. I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis. Looks kinda macho, and better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF connector with shiny ones. Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C clamp. Will have to re-touch up case again with semi-flat this time :-( Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking worse than the panel, will repaint it. It looks easy - no lettering :-) Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic. Scrape rust with a small screwdriver. Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick. Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look better. (ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and pick a good size) Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look 100% better than rust. Super glue washers to knob. Center carefully. Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic faceplate do-hicky. Dial backround: Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510 Ivory Satin. Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way. Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and spray the visible section. Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost perfectly. Lubricate moving parts with (expensive) Tri-Flow teflon Superior Lubricant. Liquid dries up leaving a teflon coating on bearings. Buy replacement Capacitors from Unique Radio Parts, LLC...Look it up on Google. Save the old Capacitor can. You might want to cut it to replace caps on a mint 2B. I think that is it. Let me know what you think. Hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear but fun (and only about $90 worth of stuff) to make the 2B presentable and worthy of a spot on your bench or in your mind. I will be on the lookout to upgrade mine if a better one magically appears. 72/73 Jim / W1FMR --- john [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the edges, chassis very pitted, chips off the front panel. Works flawlessly! :-) John K5MO At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B presentable as my boatanchor receiver. The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty. Replaced the DC filter caps Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors Repaired rust on the case and front panel Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted. Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but this morning heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum). Will see if works OK tonight. And someone must have banged the receiver down on the main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit. The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned. Not serious but annoying. The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did last night :-) wonderful ! If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob repair
