[Drakelist] modify subscription / email address
I was wondering how I can change my email address or make other subscription changes for the Drakelist. I can't find anything on the website about that. Maybe it's there, but I don't see it. Thanks, Al, WA2S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?
I got my Novice in '64 when I was starting the 10th grade. (Seems like a
lot of us started around that time). I had to share my station with my
brother, who got his license at the same time. That made it a little
easier to save up for equipment anyway.
Started with a DX-40 also, with just a few crystals, which seems to have
been pretty common at that time. The receiver was probably worse than
most guys had - a Knight Kit Star Roamer, which was pretty much deaf
above 20 meters, and left much to be desired as far as stability,
sensitivity, and selectivity. I did manage to work quite a few stations
though, mostly on 80 and 40 meters.
The receiver was later upgraded to a Hallicrafters S-85, which was much
better, then an HQ-129X for a short time, which wasn't much of an
improvement. I finally got my hands on a Drake 2B, and that was
infinitely better than any previous receiver. The transmitter was later
upgraded to a Lakeshore Phasemaster IIA (first SSB rig), and then an
HT-37.
Then after getting out of the service, I had an HT-32, then an HT-44,
(both with the 2B). and then a TR-4C. I'm not sure why I didn't hang on
to some of those old rigs. I guess I just got tired of stuff real fast
when I was young. After that, I built a Heath HX-1681, which was a nice
CW-only rig. Then I eventually got the Heath SB-401/301 twins, which I
kept for quite some time, even though it seems like I was always fixing
them. (The SB-401 in particular).
I now have a TS-830S, which is my main rig, along with all the matching
accessories. I also have a T-4X / 2B, which is my vintage SSB station,
and also a Ranger I / NC-300 station, that I mainly use for AM.
As far as doing it over again, I might go with the DX-40, but would
definitely save up to buy a better receiver to start out with. Something
with an RF stage and a little selectivity and stability.
Al, WA2S
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of mikefur...@att.net
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2011 6:01 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over
again,what would your first station be?
When I got my novice ('64) I was 13 and a freshman in high school. I
started with a R55A (mowed lots of yards) and a DX40 (present from dad
for passing the novice). I have a copy of that station today. I have
since gone through the gold dust twins and currently have two "S" lines,
a supper nice Drake "C" line, and an R7, R388 along with other stuff
(two complete ARC stations, knight regens, Swan 140 and 240).
But alas, yesterday, my K3 kit arrived and it will replace the broken
FT1000 (probably gonna be a parts unit ... note ... the Drake and
Collins still work and can easily still be fixed ... if needed). If I
started over again in the 60's and I knew what I know today, I would
stay with the DX40 and opt for the 2B/2BQ (had one, mistakenly sold it).
After reading the original post that got this fascinating thread
started, I am going to get off of dead center (after FD) and listen to
the 75S3B and the R4C
(unmodified) to see for my self how they compare. I am primarily a low
band CW op here.
73, Mike WA5POK
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Update
Nice to hear you got the 2B working better. My 2B actually works better with a different tube than the original type for V5, I believe, but not sure if it's V5 or V6. With all the original type tubes, the S-meter doesn't have as good of a range as it should. The RF gain control pot doesn't measure 15 megohms like it's supposed to though, so that might be part of the reason. I think it reads closer to 10 or 11 megs. I haven't been able to locate a 15 megohm pot anywhere, so I'm stuck with what I have. I think it's the original, but it must have changed value over the years. 10 meters has been pretty dead lately, except for an occasional signal, and 15 hasn't been too lively, although sometimes I hear a few relatively strong signals. I heard Germany on a couple weeks ago, and I was able to work them with a good report (100 watts). Both 15 and 10 have been pretty dead at night though. Hopefully that will change as we get closer to the sunspot cycle peak. 73, Al, WA2AS From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Joe Connor Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 10:42 AM To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Update I have some good news. If you recall, my 2B had a 6BE6 installed as V-6, the AM detector. Yesterday, I got a NOS 6BF6 and plugged it in. It made a very big difference. The set now performs extremely well in Diode/AM mode. It also performs well with the Product Detector and BFO on. I've been receiving a lot of amateur transmissions, mostly SSB, on 80m, 40m and 20m. So far, 15m and 10m have been relatively dead. Does that sound like an issue of propagation or does it suggest a receiver problem? My signal generator comes in loud and clear on both 10m and 15m. I received a new electrolytic can and plan to install that today. The can currently in the set is rated for only 150 WVDC and appears to be original. That voltage rating seems a bit low to me. The new one is rated for 250 WVDC. I bought the new one at http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/ I've located a few crystals at a reasonable price and hope to receive them soon. They should give me coverage of the 49m, 25m and 31m bands. At the hamfests this summer, I'll keep my eyes open for more crystals. I would like to have the 19m band, as well as the broadcast band. Eventually, I plan to buy the "good" manual that contains all the details etc. at http://www.k4oah.com/Drake_new7/index.html Finally, I'd like to thank you all for your help. With your assistance, it looks like I'm well on my way to having a real "keeper." I'll keep you posted on how the general-coverage crystals work out. Joe Connor ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring
I used a similar method in refurbing a 2B about half a year ago. I put the chassis on a slant, using some boards on my bench, and put newspaper under it to absorb excess water and cleaner. I used either 409 or Simple Green with some water and a small paint brush (with the metal part covered with masking tape). After I got it pretty clean, I used a hair dryer to dry it out pretty well, and then let it sit near an open window for several hours. A while later, I sprayed the top and back of the chassis with silicone spray, and then wiped off the excess with paper towels. Not sure if that's necessary, but I figured it might help protect the parts of the chassis where it was corroded and no longer protected by copper and clear coat. Worked pretty well for me. I didn't go through the trouble of using baggies, which sounds like a good idea, but the transformers all seem to still work. Al, WA2AS -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 8:24 PM To: john.hud...@calema.ca.gov; geoffreymendel...@gmail.com; Drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring I sure would not put a Drake, Collins, Halli or whatever in a dishwasher with the transformers (meters etc)on the chassis! What a pain it would be to remove them. And when I use simple green & very hot water (light on the water) with a lot of rinse afterwords (light on the water), I put baggies & rubber bands on tight aound the transformers to keep water out. But, I am using a stiff bristeled brush and setting the chassis on an angle for water to slide off...not forcingwater in. I still worry a little about the transformers. Then after it's clean I set it out in the sun for all day (or 2-3), or use the oven on low. In my experience the bottem of the chassis usually does not need much cleaning...just blow the dust out. I wish Drake had used Aluminum chassis. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: John Hudson To: geoffrey mendelson ; Drake List Sent: Mon, Feb 28, 2011 8:10 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring Geoffrey I think the real issue here is that with proper care taken during preparation you can successfully use a water method to clean your Drake equipment and bring them back to an almost new appearance. With proper planning, preparation, patience and care this process will yield very successful results. Does that include a dishwasher, well that would take preparation on the part of the person thinking of using a dishwasher, will the water leave more behind than it takes off? That's planning and preparation. Will this method cause damage to your equipment? Again, that's planning and preparation by making sure you protect those items that water will damage like meters and such. Like they say, "secrets in the sauce" with this method there really is no secret with exception of those things mentioned; Planning, Preparation, Patience, and care. There are some guys I've met who just have a gift in repairing equipment, almost supernatural! I know one guy who 50% of the repair cases I've seen him work on he was successful without having schematic just because he knows what he's doing and has the patience to methodically work though problems and uses the process of symptoms to evaluate and correct issues. This is the same procedure we all need to use when tackling restoration projects. Like testing the radio before dissembling it to make sure it works before the cleaning process to minimize chasing your tail thinking the water did something when actually it had nothing to do with the water. All the best Geoffrey and now let the debate of water vs no water began... again ;-) -.. . WA6HYQ -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of geoffrey mendelson Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 1:00 AM To: Drake List Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring On Feb 25, 2011, at 9:44 AM, John Hudson wrote: > then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water ^ > So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, > and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. Actually it's a horrible idea. Dishwasher water is municipal water loaded with minerals, chlorine and that favorite of the commies, flouride. (just joking about the commie part). I read on one of these lists that the water used by Techtronics to wash their repairs was naturally pure well water and almost the same as de-ionized water. A far cry from municipal water. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mai
[Drakelist] Drake 2B anomaly
I have a Drake 2B that I refurbished and re-aligned a few months ago, and it plays pretty well on all bands. The only thing that seems a little strange is when the passband control is set to "1", and the preselector is off-tuned or if there is no antenna connected (low atmospheric noise), it sounds different than the passband control is set to "2". It's hard to describe, but it sounds a little like it wants to whistle or oscillate or something like that. Maybe a little "tinny". (It doesn't really oscillate though). Another weird thing is that it is mostly just with the AVC in "slow" position that it sounds like what I've been describing. When the AVC is in "Fast" position, Passband 1 and 2 sound a lot closer to each other. When I'm listening to stations or a high atmospheric noise level (AVC Slow or Fast), the problem, or anomaly is not very noticeable at all. I positioned the passband knob so the pitch is pretty much the same at positions 1 and 2 on all three selectivity positions, although it was a slight compromise to get them all close. I have a friend that has a 2B, and he is experiencing the same thing. I guess it's possible that they all do that, but I had a 2B back in the 60's and 70's, and I don't remember than happening. I probably wasn't as fussy when I was that young though. This isn't any big deal, but I was just wondering if anyone else with a 2B ever noticed what I described, or maybe someone with a receiver that has a similar passband control / selectable IF filter circuitry. Thanks, Al, WA2AS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Red dial scale pegs
I have a 2B and a T-4X that both have very faded red pegs (or whatever you call them) that are used to shift the dial scale for calibration purposes. You can tell they used to be red, but there is hardly any red left on either of them. I was wondering if there is an easy way to restore the color to them without spending a lot of time or money. I thought about touching up the front of them with a red felt-tipped marker, but that might just make it look more uneven (or maybe not?). Any ideas or past results would be appreciated. Thanks, Al, WA2AS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] 2B Crystal wanted
I was wondering if anyone has a 24.5 MHz crystal that they can spare for a reasonable price. I need that to get the beginning of the 10 meter band on the 2B I recently finished refurbing. For some reason, it only comes with the one for 28.5 to 29 MHz. (Probably because that's used on 15 meters also). Thanks, Al, WA2AS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2B paint problems
Thanks for the info. Several people have recommended that I bake the paint, so I think I'll try that. I do have a gas stove in the basement with an oven that is rarely used for food, so I'll try it with that. If I use it for baking paint, does that mean I should never use it again for food, or should I just burn off any remaining paint fumes before using it to cook food? The scratches in my 2-B were really big (gouges), not just fine scratches. I could probably live with those. Hopefully it won't scratch as deep if it hardens some. I'll make sure to use the painter's tape again when I slide the radio back into the cabinet. 73, Al Al - Most all 2-Bs have those scratches! :-) The new ones were painted, not powder coated. One thing that will help is to bake the paint. An hour or so in a 125 - 150 degree oven will really harden it up. If the XYL won't let you use the kitchen oven for an hour or so, (not all that unusual!), a decent job can be done in several hours with a cardboard box and a 100W light bulb. But hurry, while you can still FIND a 100W light bulb! I repainted a Teletype machine cabinet many years ago with spray paint, baked the smaller pieces in the oven, and baked the big cabinet with 'brooder' (heat) lamps, moving them around to heat the entire cabinet over a day or two. 30 years later that paint is still unscratched. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line& TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Schichler, Alfred (GE Energy Services) wrote: > I recently acquired a 2B that was in fairly decent condition, but the > cabinet needed a paint job to look good because it had several little > scratches and blemishes. > Anyway, after sanding the whole cabinet down, priming it, and spraying > it with Rustoleum Satin Black paint, It came out pretty nice looking, > I let it sit for close to a week before putting the radio back in the > cabinet. > The problem is, no matter how gently I put the radio back in the > cabinet, the paint on the inside bottom of the cabinet gets scratched > badly. Mostly in two places - bottom left and bottom right. Just the > front 3/4" or so. I originally thought it was the chassis scraping it, > but I found out it's mostly the bottom of the front panel. (the > edges were kind of sharp, but I subsequently sanded them lightly). If > I try touching up the scratched areas with a brush or Q-tip, those > spots are still very noticeable, and don't look too good. > After re-sanding and re-spraying the inside bottom several times, I > finally found out that if I put painter's tape along the inside bottom > (front) of the cabinet, I can slide the radio back into the cabinet > extremely carefully, and still have the paint intact. (I managed to do > it once anyway). Now I'm afraid of ever taking the radio back out of > the cabinet for fear of getting the paint scratched. I know the > original paint was much more durable, but I believe they used a > powder-type paint. > I'm not sure if the paint is ever going to harden to the point that it > won't easily be scratched, or should I maybe consider using an > expensive spray paint that is supposed to be real tough and actually > harden to the point that it can take a slight bit of abuse. I don't > have the luxury of having an oven, compressor, spray gun, or other > professional painting equipment. > Thanks for any help, > Al, WA2AS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2B paint problems
I recently acquired a 2B that was in fairly decent condition, but the cabinet needed a paint job to look good because it had several little scratches and blemishes. Anyway, after sanding the whole cabinet down, priming it, and spraying it with Rustoleum Satin Black paint, It came out pretty nice looking, I let it sit for close to a week before putting the radio back in the cabinet. The problem is, no matter how gently I put the radio back in the cabinet, the paint on the inside bottom of the cabinet gets scratched badly. Mostly in two places - bottom left and bottom right. Just the front 3/4" or so. I originally thought it was the chassis scraping it, but I found out it's mostly the bottom of the front panel. (the edges were kind of sharp, but I subsequently sanded them lightly). If I try touching up the scratched areas with a brush or Q-tip, those spots are still very noticeable, and don't look too good. After re-sanding and re-spraying the inside bottom several times, I finally found out that if I put painter's tape along the inside bottom (front) of the cabinet, I can slide the radio back into the cabinet extremely carefully, and still have the paint intact. (I managed to do it once anyway). Now I'm afraid of ever taking the radio back out of the cabinet for fear of getting the paint scratched. I know the original paint was much more durable, but I believe they used a powder-type paint. I'm not sure if the paint is ever going to harden to the point that it won't easily be scratched, or should I maybe consider using an expensive spray paint that is supposed to be real tough and actually harden to the point that it can take a slight bit of abuse. I don't have the luxury of having an oven, compressor, spray gun, or other professional painting equipment. Thanks for any help, Al, WA2AS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2B or 2A knobs wanted
I was wondering if anyone has any spare 2B, 2A, or 2BQ/2AQ knobs that they would want to part with. I think the knobs might be the same on the 2C also, but not sure. I would prefer two, but will settle for one. (I have a cracked one and and a couple where the chrome is rusted a bit). Thanks, Al, WA2AS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
