Re: [Drakelist] Running R4A off car inverter
Neil, FWIW, the DC4 power supply by Drake was a high frequency (330Hz square wave per manual) inverter with transformer for the TX. But they also had a winding and plug for a 115 volts to run a RX. So I would think about any reasonable inverter would work fine on the RX. see:http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeManuals/DC4/Manual_DC4.htm If you're so inclined to build something, I am guessing that you could use an old battery charger transformer and a pulse generator circuit feeding the 12 volt (actually 24volt CT) side. Then the 120 volt output to the RX plug. 60 Hz transformers generally do fairly well with higher audio frequencies. Depending on your junk box and ability to scrounge I would think it would come in under $30. see:http://www.i4at.org/lib2/inverter.htm I am sure further google searches may turn up better circuits. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Sun, 2/12/12, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com Subject: [Drakelist] Running R4A off car inverter To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, February 12, 2012, 1:12 AM I'm still interested in running the Drake R4A of a DC/AC inverter. I found a Xantrex Pro Watt 600 watt. These are getting pricey, some hundreds of dollars. Will they work? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Running R4A off car inverter
Long ago I ran a huge R-388/51J3 on a smaller inverter and it worked fine. 73 de W3NU On 2/12/2012 0112, Neil M Califano wrote: I'm still interested in running the Drake R4A of a DC/AC inverter. I found a Xantrex Pro Watt 600 watt. These are getting pricey, some hundreds of dollars. Will they work? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] A liitle off, but...
- Original Message - From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 3:30 PM Subject: [Drakelist] A liitle off, but... Is an antenna matcher a balun or unun since it matches the antenna to the input impedance? I'm not sure if this is a generic question. If it is there are many varieties of matching circuits. Some are narrow band some wide band, also some change balanced to unbalanced lines with out without a change in characteristic impedance. I'm not sure where to start with this other than suggesting that you read the tutorial material available on the web. Its possible to get a good, practical, understanding of impedance and its transformation without getting too deeply into theory but the real theory is pretty deep stuff. BTW, matching may not be too important in some instances; its often not for receiving antennas. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
Tom - Good compromise! :-) This was common in LOTS of tube gear before the 'greenies' attacked and demanded we unplug our electric toothbrushes!! They would have stroked over the 'Damp Chaser' Hallicrafter's and others used in receivers. For the youngsters, a 'Damp Chaser' was an accessory sold at the time. It was a power resistor that you bolted to the chassis of a receiver that was connected across the line at all times. The all occurred before electricity went to 25 cents a kWH!! Somehow the free market works these things out MUCH better than government, or other, edict 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com TC Dailey wrote: Back in the day... I borrowed an idea from the color-TV instant on feature... soldered a reverse-biased diode across the ON/OFF switch, so that only the negative-going pulses entered the power xfmr - it would light the filaments half-brilliance, but no B+ was generated. the radios would be instant on with very little drift after initial power-up. NEVER had a problem. Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
Tom - I just re-read your message... Just HOW do you connect a 'reverse-biased diode' to AC???:-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com TC Dailey wrote: Back in the day... I borrowed an idea from the color-TV instant on feature... soldered a reverse-biased diode across the ON/OFF switch, so that only the negative-going pulses entered the power xfmr - it would light the filaments half-brilliance, but no B+ was generated. the radios would be instant on with very little drift after initial power-up. NEVER had a problem. Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
Don - This definitely helps mitigate turn-on surge currents. It's critical to get the 'right size', and to mount it away from other components, as they DO get hot in operation. 'OH NO, 'wasted' power!' They also reduce the voltage applied to all components by a small amount, which doesn't hurt with today's considerably higher line voltages. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Don Cunningham wrote: I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A at the suggestion of a friend. I don't notice the thump on the transformer anymore, so it may just be enough of a delay to help protect switches, transformers, etc. Sure initially looks like cheap insurance!! I'll post something again after I've really tested this longer term. I will try one on an AC4 also. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
I use to keep the tube rigs warm and happy until I got the electric bill They are turned off now. I'm not talking about one or two rigs either, there are dozens in the shack, and they hit the electric up to the point they had to go dark. mike Mike Bryce, WB8VGE the heathkit shop SunLight energy systems J e e p o|||o On Sep 10, 2011, at 9:54 AM, Garey Barrell wrote: Don - This definitely helps mitigate turn-on surge currents. It's critical to get the 'right size', and to mount it away from other components, as they DO get hot in operation. 'OH NO, 'wasted' power!' They also reduce the voltage applied to all components by a small amount, which doesn't hurt with today's considerably higher line voltages. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 09:50:28 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote: the 'greenies' attacked and demanded we unplug our electric toothbrushes!! And yet, most of our modern electronics draws a small amount of standby power to accomodate remote controls, soft power buttons, etc. I guess that's OK The HW-101 that I had back in the late 70s had an ugly homebrew power supply with a switch on it to kill the B+. I used to let it run with the filamants lit all the time. It helped keep my room warm in the winter. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
So do you just put one of these devices in series with the hot line of the AC mains? Guy, WA6OQQ On 9/9/2011 9:06 PM, Jim Shorney wrote: On Fri, 9 Sep 2011 22:44:35 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote: I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A at the suggestion of a friend. I don't notice the thump on the transformer anymore, so it may just be enough of a delay to help protect switches, transformers, etc. I've salvaged NTC thermistors out of dead PC power supplies, they usually seem appropriatly sized for linear loads up to a few hundred watts. Have one in my PS-7 and one in an AC-4. It tames the thumps nicely, and anyone who has a PS-7 knows that it has a monster thump. See here: http://zerobeat.net/drakelist/smf/index.php/topic,252.0.html 73, -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 07:47:02 -0700, Guy Giacopuzzi wrote: So do you just put one of these devices in series with the hot line of the AC mains? Yep. See the article by DL7MAJ that I posted the link to. They do get warm in normal operation, so you want to allow them room to breathe. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A at the suggestion of a friend. I don't notice the thump on the transformer anymore, so it may just be enough of a delay to help protect switches, transformers, etc. Sure initially looks like cheap insurance!! I'll post something again after I've really tested this longer term. I will try one on an AC4 also. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
On Fri, 9 Sep 2011 22:44:35 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote: I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A at the suggestion of a friend. I don't notice the thump on the transformer anymore, so it may just be enough of a delay to help protect switches, transformers, etc. I've salvaged NTC thermistors out of dead PC power supplies, they usually seem appropriatly sized for linear loads up to a few hundred watts. Have one in my PS-7 and one in an AC-4. It tames the thumps nicely, and anyone who has a PS-7 knows that it has a monster thump. See here: http://zerobeat.net/drakelist/smf/index.php/topic,252.0.html 73, -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
On Fri, 09 Sep 2011 23:06:07 -0500, Jim Shorney wrote: See here: http://zerobeat.net/drakelist/smf/index.php/topic,252.0.html The correct URL for Stefan's article is: http://www.dl7maj.de/PS7-Inrush.pdf 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
That's about what I did here, Jim. I used the GE CL40 (5a unit) and it works well. It does get warm, but not hot and does do the job. Mouser's part number is 527-CL40 and they aren't expensive new. Postage will get you if you don't need other devices, however!! I usually need other things, so that's not a problem here, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?
On Fri, 9 Sep 2011 23:20:10 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote: Mouser's part number is 527-CL40 and they aren't expensive new. Postage will get you if you don't need other devices, however!! There was a big argument about this on another list, I think, but DigiKey offers free shipping _with prepaid orders_. If someone needs enough *stuff* to satisfy any minimum order they might have, this saves some money these days. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Off Frequency (1Khz)
Hi Brian, On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 13:26:33 -0400, bjon...@mindspring.com wrote: Finally I remembered my freq counter (keeps track of my 10Mhz frequency standard) so I hooked the drake up to it directly and threw a 1W cw tone at it and was off by 1Khz (i.e the DR7 displayed 14.2140, but the counter showed 14.2150) (flipping over to the RV75 results in the same result) A subtle, but important, distinction is that the TR-7 shifts the *transmit* frequency from what the dial reads on CW. It seems that the majority of the import rigs shift the recieve frequency. Thus, the DR-7 readout will be around 800 Hz off from your frequency counter in CW transmit. IIRC, this is not true for AM, so try an carrier in AM mode. So my first question is: When trying to use WWV to determine receive frequency, what is the best way to do so? Apparently how I have been doing it for years is incorrect! What I usually do is set the PBT to center, RIT off, and adjust for zero beat with WWV's carrier in SSB mode. This is easier if done during the periods when WWV does not transmit audio tones. You will need to turn the volume up as you approach zero beat in order to hear the beat note better. Use the strongest WWV you can find. I'm curious as to how you were doing it that you think is incorrect? Question number two: If both my transmit and receive frequency are off the same amount (1Khz) is there an adjustment on the DR-7 that will allow it to display correctly (My first glance through the service manual did not reveal any way, but I thought I would ask the experts here) or is that something that would have to be fixed through an alignment of the TR7? (or at 1Khz off is it better to just tape a sticky note to the table reminding me to add +1?) The only adjustment that could possibly cause a TX/RX shift problem here is the RIT center pot on the parent board. Otherwise, your RX and TX are the same as the signals come from the same source. There is no seperate reference for the DR-7. You rig may need to have the RIT center adjusted, and/or a frequency alignment of the oscillators. This is not a hard thing to do, but you do need a sensitive counter to read the oscillator signals. First, check the +10v adjustment; if it's too far off, it will need to be set to 10V and you may need to touch up the AGC/S-Meter adjustment. Then you will adjust the 40 MHz, 13.695 MHz, and 8.05 MHz, in that order. That should get you there, but it's a good idea to check the fixed passband adjustments while you are at it. They are almost always off a little. Follow the adjustment procedure in the service manual, without skipping any steps, and you should be fine. I've found that it's a good idea to isolate the counter probe from the signal under test with an as high in value (carbon) resistor as you can use and still get a stable reading, as the load of the counter can shift the oscillators a tiny but (probably not enough to be concerned, but I'm picky). This seems to be most apparent on the 40 MHz. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Led flashing off and on
My LED on my Drake TR7A is flashing off and on,and then goes off after a few seconds.After I turn the rig off and then back on,it seems fine.What wud cause this,and what is the solution?I have one of the last TR7's that came off the production line before they ceased making them.Jim Andrews,W8JWA ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [drakelist] R4B ON Off switch part needed
Lew, I have something here, but I am not sure what it goes to. It has an on/off switch on it, but I believe its for a C model. 73 Bill Lew (K1NDV) wrote: Hi all, I am still looking for the mounting switch wafer for my R4B. The previous owner removed the on off switch but actually took the switch off by removing the wafer from the switch assembly!! If you happen to have a wafer or used assembly, let me know along with the price. Thanks 73 Lew K1NDV
Re: [drakelist] Need on-off switch R4B
Thank you for the information. I have a little of both I.e. Some corrosion but also some dust and dirt. Guess I'll break out the swabs!! 73 Lew K1NDV ---Original Message--- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 01/18/08 14:51:25 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [drakelist] Need on-off switch R4B [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Also, could use suggestions on best ways to clean the chassis. Thanks-73 Lew K1NDV Hi, Can't help with the switch. By cleaning do you mean dust dirt removal ? If so rubbing alcohol, or denatured alcohol and Q-tips. Others recommend Windex on paper towels. Keeping the tube lettering on is a job. I you are referring to rust coming through the very thin copper plating and ergo the steel rusting, have only seen one done (in pictures) and that was massively taped off, primed and painted with a copper paint. 73's good luck Carl WD8NHK Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year.
Re: [drakelist] Need on-off switch R4B
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Also, could use suggestions on best ways to clean the chassis. Thanks-73 Lew K1NDV Hi, Can't help with the switch. By cleaning do you mean dust dirt removal ? If so rubbing alcohol, or denatured alcohol and Q-tips. Others recommend Windex on paper towels. Keeping the tube lettering on is a job. I you are referring to rust coming through the very thin copper plating and ergo the steel rusting, have only seen one done (in pictures) and that was massively taped off, primed and painted with a copper paint. 73's good luck Carl WD8NHK **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489
RE: [drakelist] T-4XC Off Frequency with an R-4B
Gerry [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- One thing about crystals: they age! As they do, they slowly change frequency. I had a problem with my TR-6 where it was impossible to center the 9 mHz oscillator for equal (or perceptibly equal) response between USB and LSB. The answer was a new crystal. This includes range crystals. One of my original accessory crystals for my first R-4B which I bought way back in '70 has drifted about 10kHz. Geez, that's 35 years, how time flies! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken, WA2LBI Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 7:37 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; David Havel Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [drakelist] T-4XC Off Frequency with an R-4B Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Dave, I recently repaired a R-4B and T-4XB with a similar problem. The 5595 Kc oscillator in the second mixer, V3 (12BE6), would not make frequency no matter where C61 was adjusted. I removed C155, a cap value selected during production, and that brought it within range of C61. It worked fine once the freq was set. Ken, WA2LBI Quoting David Havel [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hi folks, I recently acquired a C Line, and have sent the R-4C off for upgrading. Upon performing an alignment on the T-4XC, and trying it out with my R-4B receiver, it appears to be transmitting about 700 Hz lower than the display shows on both the R-4B or the xmtr. itself. This is regardless of whether the rcvr. or the xmtr. is controlling the frequency. It did work very good with the R-4C, so I don't know if I messed up something during the alignment, or if the Carrier Oscillator connection to the R-4C locked it in to where it should be. I checked the Carrier Oscillator frequency by connecting it to the counter of my TR7, and it is right on 5645 KHz via C6. I believe I performed the alignment okay per the manual, although the Carrier Oscillator, Filter Match, and Balanced Modulator adjustments were performed while watching the S meter on my TR7, since the S Meter isn't responsive enough to notice the change as in plate current as described. I am having some trouble getting any canary chirping sound with the R-4B while attempting the transceive alignment. I'm getting a steady tone of around 800 or so Hz that rises or lowers with the adjustment of C-61 in the R-4B. Any ideas as to what might be happening here? Thank you in advance for any suggestions to try! 73, Dave - NO3K -- On Behalf of Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of Gerry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
