[Elecraft] VCO Relationship with 4 MHz Oscillator
Hi Ron, Thanks for this explanation. Is there an implication here that if you had a more accurate external 4MHz source you could switch it in when you run CAL PLL to get a more accurate result in the look-up table? Mike VK1KCK -- Message: 29 Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2004 20:03:33 -0800 From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] VCO relationship with 4 Mhz ocsillator To: 'Jean-Fran?ois M?nard' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: 'Elecraft - Maling List' Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" That's not the case for the 4 MHz oscillator in the K2, Jean-Frangois. -snip-- When you run CAL PLL, a frequency counter built into the K2 measures the PLL frequency. The K2 applies a tuning voltage to the PLL reference oscillator and notes the frequency measured by the counter. This information is recorded in memory so it can be looked up later. The K2 tunes through the whole range of frequencies the PLL can cover noting the actual frequency measured at regular intervals, and then recording the voltage applied to the reference that will produce the frequency. -snip-- Notice that the accuracy of the readout depends upon how accurately the frequencies and tuning voltages were stored when you ran CAL PLL. That's where the 4 MHz clock and C22 come in. The Control Board 4 MHz clock is the time base for the frequency counter! So the closer it is to 4 MHz the more accurately the K2 will measure the K2 PLL frequency and the more accurately the dial calibration of the K2 will be in use. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Auto-detect disable with internal keyer
While squeezing out CW using the internal keyer I occassionally manage to close both paddles at the same time and generate a continuous tone. I only see three menu choices. Normal paddle (auto-detect on) Reverse paddle (auto-detect on) and Handkey (auto-detect off). Am I correct in thinking that it is not possible to tell the K2 that I will always use a paddle and want the auto-detect feature turned off? Tom K2TA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Auto-detect disable with internal keyer
At 06:47 AM 11/26/2004, Tom Althoff wrote... >While squeezing out CW using the internal keyer I occassionally manage to >close both paddles at the same time and generate a continuous tone. > >I only see three menu choices. Normal paddle (auto-detect on) Reverse paddle >(auto-detect on) and Handkey (auto-detect off). > >Am I correct in thinking that it is not possible to tell the K2 that I will >always use a paddle and want the auto-detect feature turned off? At least with current firmware, pressing "display" when in that menu choice will toggle auto-detect on/off. This is described on page 86 of the current manual. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Increased Elecraft orders from Europe
Ref. query Eric Swartz, WA6HHQ, Elecraft. On the yearly "HF-day" held on 18 september last in Apeldoorn, The Netherlands, there was a special lecture about the K2 with all the adds-on by a Dutch ham and there was also a presentation of the "Banaba DX-expedition (T33)" held in april 2004 given by two Dutch hams who were part of the team. A number of K2/100's were used during this expedition and the Dutch amateurs were very positive about the performance of the K2's. (Far above their expectations they had before the start of the expedition. They never had worked before with a K2). This meeting is always attended by several HF/DX operators, so the good word on Elecraft kits is spread in the Dutch HF world. Occasions like these where people hear "first hand" (favourable) experiences combined with the present relatively cheap US dollar versus the Euro are in my opinion the important figures for increased ordering of Elecraft kits from Europe. In my local radio club with 60 members there are 3 K2 owners. (5 %). I don't think that is reprentative for the total Dutch ham population of about 15.000, but the number of Elecraft users is growing in my country. 73/72, Rob, PA0RBO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k2 #4515 on air !
Hello the list, My K2 # 4515 is now totally operational in CW and SSB and made its first SSB QSO yesterday evening on 80 m. The KSB2 finished and tested, I contacted some stations on 80m in SSB. I received excellent reports of modulation, using a Yaesu MD100 or a MH1. The receiver is excellent, rarely heard something so pleasant to listen to, I had the occasion to test many receivers http://perso.wanadoo.fr/f6crp/0english/denise3.htm. Only my R4C gets me so much pleasure to listen to. I needed 50 hours to build the kit (k2+ ksb2), the manual is really very well made and pleasant to read. During the assembly, I had only two small problems: - One 2N7000, Q4 on Control Board, QRT, probably by ESD, in spite of the taken precautions. I observed even symptoms as Brian, W3BW. If I moved the VFO knob or pushed on any button, the line +8R went to ground and the receiver mute. - last saturday, probably tired ( hi ), I inverted T3. For a power of 5 W, the K2 consumed 4 A Thanks to all the development team for this magic transceiver , to those of the support who answer very fast (Gary and the others). Thanks to you all, American friends, I am a happy owner of the best products whom I know, Drake and Elecraft. I hope to contact you this weekend during the CQ WW. 73 Denis F6CRP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Auto-detect disable with internal keyer
Thanks Mike! I found it on Page 95 of the Ref F, Jan 29, 2004 manual. I'll change the setting for the contest this weekend. 73 de Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: "Mike S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Tom Althoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 7:15 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Auto-detect disable with internal keyer > At 06:47 AM 11/26/2004, Tom Althoff wrote... > >While squeezing out CW using the internal keyer I occassionally manage to close both paddles at the same time and generate a continuous tone. > > > >I only see three menu choices. Normal paddle (auto-detect on) Reverse paddle (auto-detect on) and Handkey (auto-detect off). > > > >Am I correct in thinking that it is not possible to tell the K2 that I will always use a paddle and want the auto-detect feature turned off? > > At least with current firmware, pressing "display" when in that menu choice will toggle auto-detect on/off. This is described on page 86 of the current manual. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] VCO Relationship with 4 MHz Oscillator
Mike and all, An external 4 MHz oscillator does not work because there is no provision to inject an external oscillator into the MCU in place of the crystal oscillator. It would require a hardware mod to use it. Setting the reference oscillator accurately is not difficult - if you have a very accurate external counter, you can read the same frequency source with both the internal and external counter and simply match the interal counter reading. The newer method of setting the reference now on the Elecraft webside (previously known as the 'N6KR method') is even more accurate because it automatically compensates for slight variations in the reference frequency required - a few folks have reported that the reference must be set a few cycles away from 4 MHz for the most accurate results. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Thanks for this explanation. Is there an implication here that if you had a more accurate external 4MHz source you could switch it in when you run CAL PLL to get a more accurate result in the look-up table? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Increased Elecraft orders from Europe
> In my local radio club with 60 members there are 3 K2 owners. (5 %). I don't > think that is reprentative for the total Dutch ham population of about > 15.000, but the number of Elecraft users is growing in my country. > Here at PI4CC with 17 members we have 4 K2 units! Thats neary 25% Hope to work you all during the cqww cw. Running Multi/Single K2 only setup (serial 4146 and 4147) Peter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Posting
My Elecraft mailing is received once a day. I see a lot of wasted space in many of the posts. Let me suggest that when responding to a specific email that you take a minute to edit YOUR reply. If you want to reference the email you are responding to that is fine BUT you DO NOT need to quote the entire message. Just have the first sentence from the original message quoted. Go delete the remainder. Folks will know what you are talking about. I save the daily list for future reference. Some of the longer initial messages get repeated a couple of times . . . . unnecessary duplication. W9VNE Jim Danehy Cincinnati, Ohio ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS- K2 Price reduced
Wanted to offer to list members before considering e-bay. Elecraft K2 Transciever. Excellent condition both electronically and cosmetically. Basic unit plus KSB2 SSB Option and K160RX 160M Option. Firmware upgraded to (2.03d MCU / 1.07 IOC). Serial Number 0652. Microphone plug wired for a Kenwood Mic.(not included). Headers installed for easy addition of options-- KAF2 Audio Filter, KAT2 20W Internal ATU and KNB2 Noise Blanker (not included). Has worked over 7500 QSOs and DXCC & WAS many times over. $599 plus shipping Pictures at http://www.k8zt.com/k2pix.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N-GEN noise generator question
This is my first kit in over 35 years, so I have a basic question. The N-GEN noise generator kit uses a surface mount device designated MAR-1 as U1, a tiny drum-shaped body with four leads protruding radially outward from the center. The end of one of the leads is cut at a slant. The kit instructions say to orient the slant-cut lead toward the center of the circuit board. However, I'm not sure which side of the device should be facing up. One side of the device is labeled ".10", with an underscore under the zero, and I would assume this side should be facing up. However, the directions also say that the body of the device will fit into the hole in the board between the pads, so if I place the longer side of the body of the device into the hole (to have more of the device extending into the hole), the label is now face down. Both orientations result in the four leads positioned above the pads on the board and both have the slant-cut lead pointing to the center of the board - which should I use? 73, Bob, WO3E PS: It's great to bebuilding again, but DANG - these modern parts are small! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] VCO Relationship with 4 MHz Oscillator
In a Don, W3FPR, points to a very good reason not to try to use an external 4 MHz clock for the counter. There's an issue with the accuracy available too. The tuning voltages are converted to digital numbers for storage in memory, and the digital numbers are converted back to analogue voltages as required when tuning across the band. The conversion is done by DAC's - Digital to Analogue Converters. During CAL PLL the DAC's sample the tuning voltages applied to the oscillators and convert them to digital numbers for storage. In operation the DAC's convert the digital number back to the tuning voltage. The DAC's used by Elecraft are a trade-off between cost, complexity and accuracy. From what I've read, they provide a tuning accuracy of about 30 Hz. Even if the K2 was able to measure the oscillator frequency with absolute accuracy while running CAL PLL, the DAC's can't reproduce the tuning voltage accurately enough to put that oscillator closer than about 30 Hz of the original frequency in operation. So getting the 4 MHz clock closer than is needed for an accuracy of about 30 Hz is an exercise in futility. It can happen accidentally that the value of the tuning voltage returned for a specific frequency is exactly on, but that's not predictable. Also, there is some drift in the voltage tuned oscillators even though the PLL reference oscillator now has an active temperature compensation circuit and the beat frequency oscillator has been improved. Of course *all* oscillators drift somewhat, and those designed to be tuned over a range of frequencies tend to drift more. The way designers have held the drift of other rigs to an absolute minimum is to not tune the PLL reference oscillator. Instead they use a very highly stabilized design that may even include putting the crystal in a temperature-controlled oven. That does produce a dial accuracy within a couple of Hz in some cases, but it does it at the cost of having the phase-locked loop tuning in very small steps of a few Hz at a time instead of the 5 kHz steps the K2 uses. That produces more phase noise in the local oscillator that affects the receiver performance. (To the operator, the phase noise usually sounds just like a somewhat higher "band noise" level.) So the oscillator design boils down to a trade-off between phase noise and stability. Elecraft went for lower noise and a stability and accuracy of some tens of Hz, instead of a stability and accuracy of a few Hz and more noise. What really impresses me about really good engineering is not that someone does things perfectly. Everything we do is a compromise of some sort; we can always imagine it being more 'perfect' than it is. What impresses me about really good engineering is the ability to choose the best compromises for the challenge. The performance of the K2 is a good example. There is indeed a real 'art' to engineering, whether it's an airplane, or a bridge, or a Ham rig. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi Ron, Thanks for this explanation. Is there an implication here that if you had a more accurate external 4MHz source you could switch it in when you run CAL PLL to get a more accurate result in the look-up table? Mike VK1KCK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MH2 to MD2 - K2, Modification Required?
I built a K2 about a year ago and wired it for use with the MH2 hand microphone. As the MD2 is currently on sale, I'm thinking about purchasing one. Can I just unplug the old mic and plug in the new one, or am I going to have to modify the mic input circuitry? Thanks, Paul N6LQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N-GEN noise generator question
Hi Bob, It makes no difference. The device is symmetrical when rotated. The two leads that become reversed are both ground. 73, Bob, N6CM - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 8:22 AM Subject: [Elecraft] N-GEN noise generator question This is my first kit in over 35 years, so I have a basic question. The N-GEN noise generator kit uses a surface mount device designated MAR-1 as U1, a tiny drum-shaped body with four leads protruding radially outward from the center. The end of one of the leads is cut at a slant. The kit instructions say to orient the slant-cut lead toward the center of the circuit board. However, I'm not sure which side of the device should be facing up. One side of the device is labeled ".10", with an underscore under the zero, and I would assume this side should be facing up. However, the directions also say that the body of the device will fit into the hole in the board between the pads, so if I place the longer side of the body of the device into the hole (to have more of the device extending into the hole), the label is now face down. Both orientations result in the four leads positioned above the pads on the board and both have the slant-cut lead pointing to the center of the board - which should I use? 73, Bob, WO3E PS: It's great to bebuilding again, but DANG - these modern parts are small! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: N-GEN noise generator question
Thanks, guys. Now I can get back to it. BTW, what type of device is the MAR-1? 73, Bob, WO3E >>By the way it will work eithere way you mount it as long as the slanted lead >>is pointing toward C2. The two leads on either side are connected to >>ground. >>73'Jim K4ZM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: N-GEN noise generator question
I believe it's a MMIC amplifier .. basically gain-in-a-box good to 1Ghz de W1RT/John On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 12:18:33 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Thanks, guys. Now I can get back to it. BTW, what type of device is the > MAR-1? > 73, Bob, WO3E > > >>By the way it will work eithere way you mount it as long as the slanted > lead > >>is pointing toward C2. The two leads on either side are connected to > >>ground. > > >>73'Jim K4ZM > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: N-GEN noise generator question
The device is known as an "MMIC" or Monolithic Microwave Integrated Circuit. It is essentially two transistors and the associated biasing resisters that from medium to high gain with decent noise figure over a very wide frequency range from low 10s of MHz up to 10Ghz in some cases. They are made and biased in a such way that they present roughly 50 ohms as input and output impedances. Sometimes they are referred to as "gain blocks" with the implication that with little more than input and output coupling capacitors and a single bias resistor for the output side you have a gain block that can be embedded in a 50 ohm system. The truth is you need a little more than just those 3 components, but nor much. Cheers, -rick, K7LOG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 9:19 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: N-GEN noise generator question Thanks, guys. Now I can get back to it. BTW, what type of device is the MAR-1? 73, Bob, WO3E . . . . ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] MH2 to MD2 - K2, Modification Required?
Paul, I will find out in a few days, but I do believe the MD2 wiring requirements are the same as for the MH2 - if not, I will make it so. IMHO, if you are using several mics with a particular rig, it is better to wire the plug on the mic rather than re-do the configuration header - my header is wired straight across and will likely stay that way. If the mic must be used with several different transceivers, I believe the best solution is to build an adapter. I would not want to slave a particular microphone to any one transceiver. Maybe we hams should campaign to use XLR connectors on our microphones like the audio folks do (particularly those mics used in the home station - handhelds for field or mobile use are a different situation) 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - I built a K2 about a year ago and wired it for use with the MH2 hand microphone. As the MD2 is currently on sale, I'm thinking about purchasing one. Can I just unplug the old mic and plug in the new one, or am I going to have to modify the mic input circuitry? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Testing BL1 mini module
I finished assembling a BL1 BALUN Module and decided to test it with my 259 Antenna Analyzer. The testing procedure calls for you to connect a pair of 100 ohm resistors in series between the two 200 ohm terminals, then test the SWR with a jumper connected to the input shield and to three different locations on the resistors. The instructions state that the SWR should be low when the jumper is connected between the input shield and the junction between the two resistors. Then it should show poor SWR when the jumper is connected between the input shield and either one of the BALUN output terminals. My tests showed no difference between any of the three connections. I have double and triple checked my soldering connections on the BL1. It is not a complicated module to assemble. Has anyone else tested the BL1 with a 259? Is the BALUN safe to use or should I just stay away from testing equipment without adult supervision? 73, KI4DGH Chuck Gehring ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Testing BL1 mini module
Chuck, I don't have one, but I have the manual and have studied it and the balun. I would test it by placing the 200 ohms across the antenna connections, and connect the 259 to the 50 ohm connection. It is a voltage balun, but should have a decent SWR from 3.5 to 29 MHZ when so connected. If it still doesn't read 1.2:1 or less, check your connections of all the wires. Chas, W1CG At 01:38 PM 11/26/2004, Chuck Gehring wrote: I finished assembling a BL1 BALUN Module and decided to test it with my 259 Antenna Analyzer. The testing procedure calls for you to connect a pair of 100 ohm resistors in series between the two 200 ohm terminals, then test the SWR with a jumper connected to the input shield and to three different locations on the resistors. The instructions state that the SWR should be low when the jumper is connected between the input shield and the junction between the two resistors. Then it should show poor SWR when the jumper is connected between the input shield and either one of the BALUN output terminals. My tests showed no difference between any of the three connections. I have double and triple checked my soldering connections on the BL1. It is not a complicated module to assemble. Has anyone else tested the BL1 with a 259? Is the BALUN safe to use or should I just stay away from testing equipment without adult supervision? 73, KI4DGH Chuck Gehring ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] LC Meter
Hi, Can any one recommend an accurate LC meter at a reasonable cost? I have a Elenco LCR-1810. It has a 200 uH sacle as the lowest scale, but it does not read correctly and is off by a factor of 2:1 at low values of uH. I need to read uH in the range of 2 TO 200 uH (HF inductors). The only thing I have other than the Elenco is a MFJ 259B with the grid dip option which is a pain to use and not that accurate either. TNX, Chas W1CG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LC Meter
Hi, Charles- The L/C Meter IIB [$99.95 kit/ $129.95 assembled] seems to be the L/C meter of choice amongst those who frequent this reflector. I have used mine for the past 2.5 years and am quite please with it. http://www.aade.com/lcmeter.htm 73, Mychael AA3WF K2#1025 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] k2 #4515 on air !
Le ven 26/11/2004 à 14:00, f6crp a écrit : > Hello the list, > > My K2 # 4515 is now totally operational in CW and SSB and made its first SSB > QSO yesterday evening on 80 m. The KSB2 finished and tested, I contacted > some stations on 80m in SSB. I received excellent reports of modulation, > using a Yaesu MD100 or a MH1. Welcome to the Club ;-) My #4068 is not yet complete. Working on Part III. Hope to hear you soon 73, Philippe f8bxi ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Testing BL1 mini module
Hi Chuck, I designed the BL1 for Elecraft and I am curious as to where you got the testing procedure that you describe. I don't find it on the posted manual and it is certainly not what I wrote. That said, the behavior that you observe is exactly what I would expect the BL1 to do. Shorting one side to the ground side of the coax will have little effect on SWR except at the lowest frequencies where you are removing part of the transformer inductance. In normal operation, i.e. no short, the two halves of the transformer are connected in series which improves the low frequency response. Testing the BL1 with a 200 ohm resistor across the output terminals and looking at the SWR at the coax connector is entirely adequate. No shorts, opens etc. are needed. 73, Bob, N6CM - Original Message - From: "Chuck Gehring" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 10:38 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Testing BL1 mini module I finished assembling a BL1 BALUN Module and decided to test it with my 259 Antenna Analyzer. The testing procedure calls for you to connect a pair of 100 ohm resistors in series between the two 200 ohm terminals, then test the SWR with a jumper connected to the input shield and to three different locations on the resistors. The instructions state that the SWR should be low when the jumper is connected between the input shield and the junction between the two resistors. Then it should show poor SWR when the jumper is connected between the input shield and either one of the BALUN output terminals. My tests showed no difference between any of the three connections. I have double and triple checked my soldering connections on the BL1. It is not a complicated module to assemble. Has anyone else tested the BL1 with a 259? Is the BALUN safe to use or should I just stay away from testing equipment without adult supervision? 73, KI4DGH Chuck Gehring ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KS PLL Reference Oscillator
Don, Your first suggestion seems possible. 12 uH is fitted as supplied with the thermistor mod kit. All components D16/D17 etc checked and are OK and there are no bad joints or shorts. John G3NYX. - Original Message - From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "John Heaviside" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 8:54 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KS PLL Reference Oscillator > John, > > In my experience, you will find one of 3 things wrong. > 1) The inductor on the bottom of the board below the PLL crystal (L31) is > too large. If you have a 12 uH inductor there, request the 10 uH from > Elecraft. OTOH, if it is already 10 uH, look elsewhere. Elecraft is > currently shipping the 10 uH inductor with the kits which should match the > PLL crystal supplied. > 2) There is something unsoldered, poorly soldered, or shorted on the > thermistor board. > 3) R19, or parts of RP2 are improperly soldered or have an incorrect value. > > The BAND+/BAND- measurement points are the extremes, and your voltages at U6 > pin 1 are correct. Normal operation will not cause the varactor diodes to > be left at zero volts - this is NOT the cause of your problem. > > Be certain you have the correct varactors at D16 and D17 - looking from the > top of the board, D17 (1SV149) should be smaller than D16 (MV209) > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > - Original Message - > From: "John Heaviside" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "elecraft reflector" > Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 3:09 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] KS PLL Reference Oscillator > > > K2 PLL Reference Oscillator Range. > > Further to my previous posting: the problem was not insensitive counter but > was in some way connected with the RIT/XIT control. The low frequency > reading BAND- is now stable but is too low. BAND+ is 12099 and BAND- 12078 > giving a range of over 20kHz which is outside specification. > > I have checked the circuit and all seems to be OK. > U5 pin7 (U6 pin3) is 4.06 at BAND+ and 0.01at BAND- which seems OK according > to the circuit diagram. > U6 pin1 is 7.48 and 0.00. This again seems OK as U6A has a gain of about 2 > with a small -ve bias resulting from the thermistor mod. > D16 and D17 are unbiased at the low end. (They actually self bias from the > RF ro a small +ve voltage at R19/C100). This seems to be bad practice as > the capacity will vary widely from component to component and result in > widely varying reference oscillator range. Hence my 20kHz range? > > Am I mistaken? Is there a fix for this? > > John G3NYX > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Linux (was: Problem with gmfsk)
> There seem to be a number of Linux users on this list. What are people > using for a logging program? I have XLog and KLog running, but they are > both rather lacking in features. I'm currently using Logger32 (running > in Linux with Win4Lin), but I'd rather have a Linux program. I'm running XLog, but as a Dx4Win user and fan, I'm trying to make it work under Wine or QEmu. Still unsucessfull... 73, Philippe ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LC Meter
Charles The LCII/B L/C meter is pretty much a standard among many home brewers. It is by Almost All Digital Electronics. The kit isn't expensive, and it works well. I highly recommend it. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LC Meter
Mychael Morohovich wrote: Hi, Charles- The L/C Meter IIB [$99.95 kit/ $129.95 assembled] seems to be the L/C meter of choice amongst those who frequent this reflector. I have used mine for the past 2.5 years and am quite please with it. http://www.aade.com/lcmeter.htm Good recommendation: Mine has been excellent. 73, Phil ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] MH2 to MD2 - K2, Modification Required?
Hi Paul, No changes required. The MH2 and MD2 us exactly the same mic input bias etc. 73, Eric WA6HHQ --- Paul Clay wrote: I built a K2 about a year ago and wired it for use with the MH2 hand microphone. As the MD2 is currently on sale, I'm thinking about purchasing one. Can I just unplug the old mic and plug in the new one, or am I going to have to modify the mic input circuitry? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Internal keyer
On Thu, 2004-25-11 at 22:32 -0500, Earl Ritchie wrote: > My problem is that when either paddle is pressed, I get only a steady > tone--no dits or dahs. Speed setting doesn't change anything, just a > steady tone. Are you sure you don't have a short between the dot and dash lines somewhere? The K2 has a feature that allows both a paddle and a key to be connected in parallel. The key is connected to both the dot and dash lines. When the K2 sees both dot and dash lines go low at the same time, it knows that it is the key, not the paddle (you would need a couple diodes to keep the paddle from grounding both lines). You can check this by turning off this feature. Go back to the INP menu (and hold the EDIT button to edit the parameter), the tap DISPLAY. You should see ADET OFF displayed briefly. Now try your paddle. If you have a short, you should now get alternating dits and dahs regardless of which lever you press. -- 73, Brian VE7NGR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ Herr Mill Covered bridge Activation Saturday, 11/27 38-36-21
Hello all, Look for me to activate Herr's Mill Covered Bridge in Lancaster County on 11/27. I will operate ssb on 40m,20m and 17m around noon EST. 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] LC Meter
I have been very happy with mine as well. -rick -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Phil Wheeler Sent: Friday, November 26, 2004 1:55 PM To: Mychael Morohovich Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Charles Greene Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LC Meter Mychael Morohovich wrote: > Hi, Charles- > > The L/C Meter IIB [$99.95 kit/ $129.95 assembled] seems to be the L/C > meter of choice amongst those who frequent this reflector. I have used > mine for the past 2.5 years and am quite please with it. > > http://www.aade.com/lcmeter.htm Good recommendation: Mine has been excellent. 73, Phil ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXAT-1 Fully Operational!
I LOVE YOU GUYS!!! Eric/Wayne/Richard/Gary: The package with the new resonator, cap and CPU chip arrived this afternoon. I desoldered the resonator and replaced it with the new one. Then I VERY CAREFULLY put in the new cpu chip, fitted everything together, and ran a check on the KXAT-1. It worked!!! Fired right up, relays clicking just like they're supposed to. Went thru the cal and Power Ouptut adjustments and things are working just like "Downtown". Many, many thanks for shipping those parts out fast. Now I can take this little beauty out on the first day of deer season (Monday) with me.I just might forget to load the rifle, I'm so impressed with this little rig. It is running on a speaker as I write this, listening to 40M, and the CQ WW test.boy, I'm gonna have me sum kinda fun, ya'all. Thanks again. 73 Rich K7SZ PS: This is what I call "customer service" and then some! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX-1 SN: 0914 & DX
Just in case you're all wondering. I just busted a BIG pileup on JA5BJC on the first try!!! Got the usual "599 25" from him, but he definately heard me...he's got good ears and I got one Hell'va RIG!! This is gonna be a fun weekend. 73 Rich K7SZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 LED Configuratuin Jumpers
There are jumpers W1 through W6 that ground various pins of MCU U1 16F877 for LED control. W1 - W2: Both open = Auto. LED control; W1 = DOT; W2 = BAR and W3 - W6 Leave open except as required (see manual). This information is written on the KAT100 RF Board schematic Rev. A, dated 10-30-02, sheet 2 of 2. I have not found anywhere in the manual that says anything about these jumpers, especially W3 - W6. Does anyone know about these jumpers? Also, there has to be a way to bypass stray RF to keep the SWR LEDs from going ape. Surely something can be done such as putting .01pF caps across each LED (D103 - D112) or putting a cap between the 120 ohm resistor to ground on each. Maybe there is a simpler mod. What small amount of stray RF I have in the shack is not "hot" and is easily handled by all my rigs and other auto antenna tuners. The KAT100-1 works perfectly if I can just get the display to work right (especially on 30 meters). I would like to focus on what can be done to the tuner and not the antenna or ground. Surely someone can come up with a fix for this. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXAT-1 Fully Operational!
Richard Arland wrote: I LOVE YOU GUYS!!! Eric/Wayne/Richard/Gary: The package with the new resonator, cap and CPU chip arrived this afternoon. [...] It is running on a speaker as I write this, listening to 40M, and the CQ WW test.boy, I'm gonna have me sum kinda fun, ya'all. Thanks again. 73 Rich K7SZ PS: This is what I call "customer service" and then some! And you're surprised, Rich?! These guys a great when it comes to support -- ham radio has never had it so good! :) 73, Joe, W2RBA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DX on 40M/KX1
Just worked V31JP in Belize on 7030KHZ at 0530Z during the CQ World Wide contest. i was down to 2.5W on my KX1 with an 8 foot whip and a 30 foot drag wire Pedestrian Mobile. That's my 42nd DXCC country operating /PM. i missed OT4A in FranceGood condx tonight... Recharging batteries now, Boy its cold outside...KX1 sure works FB. Paul w0rw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
