Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
The K2 has a pin 1 problem at the mic connector and the headphone connector -- neither of those connector shells touch the chassis if built according to instructions. I suspect that there is also a pin 1 problem at the RS232 connector, but haven't looked at that yet. I've fixed the pin 1 problem at the mic connector. Hi Jim, I am interested in how you fixed the pin1 problem on the K2 mic connector. The only mod that I am aware of to addresses this is connecting the socket shell to the Front panel board earth plane. As you comment this can cause an interference voltage to be developed across the board circuitry. 73 Stewart G3RXQ BTW -- lots of ham gear has pin 1 problems, including all the TenTec gear I've looked at. Thanks to those who have responded re: instability in the K2/100 power amp stage. All ideas are appreciated. Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 - FL2100
Has anyone on the reflector experience/hints of connecting and using a FL2100 linear with a K2/100 ? Many T.I.A Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 burn-in
Tom (K2TA), I evidently had mine running fast and furious where the fins were quite warm, never had a problem, nor used a secondary fan. Although I did pick up some minature blowers that I am considering using, just for peace of mind... 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New Build K2/100
Welcome Alan! I went through the same questions last year. A variable power soldering station is helpful. Make sure whatever iron you get is ESD safe. Small thin solder is the easiest to work with. I used a silver based solder, just because I had a pound of it and it was .015. For parts sorting, see if you can get a couple egg cartons (you probably used these if you built Heathkits) they are great for the resistors, caps, hardware. I'd leave the delicate stuff in the pink bags until you need them. Oh, if you can find a cheap wrist strap to ground yourself for ESD reasons, all the better. A magnifying visor is nice for reading the resistor bands. Use a good light as some of the colors (red and brown) are only shades of difference... Take your time and have fun! 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CQWW
Nice score Chris! Sounds like you had better conditions your way than I did mine. Hope to CU in the 10M Contest as well. Not going to put in a major effort, but will see who is around, maybe add a country or two. Look for me in the ARRL DX CW test... 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 - FL2100
Hello Stewart - I did this quite a long time ago and as I recall the FL-2100 presented a negative voltage on the keying line (hu - almost 100% sure about this but you can easily check with a VOM or DMM) and so I couldn't use the solid state switch built into the KPA100 as it will only switch positive voltages and had to use an external reed relay to trip the relay keying circuit to ground. Actually using the amp with the K2/100 was straightforward and worked quite well - as long as you keep the K2/100 away from the magnetic field of the power xfmer of the amp. The power xfrmer is located on the left rear of the FL-2100 so put the K2/100 to the right of the amplifier with a little separation between them. In my case, I had a small laptop computer in the center with the amp to the left and the K2/100 to the right and that worked just fine. I particularly liked the fact that the FL-2100 had the SWR bridge built in and in the forward position, that made it very easy to tune up. Had the amp for many years and the 572B's were still going strong (700 to 800 watts output) when I passed it along to someone else. Frankly, I wish I still had it - nice small size, very docile, quiet and reliable. Have fun. 73 --don n4hh K2/100 #2028 - Original Message - From: Stewart Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 5:33 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 - FL2100 Has anyone on the reflector experience/hints of connecting and using a FL2100 linear with a K2/100 ? Many T.I.A Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.4.5 - Release Date: 12/3/04 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.4.5 - Release Date: 12/3/04 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] monday
I can hardly wait. My K1-2 (80/40) will be here Monday. I've built several smaller kits like the Rock mite etc. Nothing of this magnatude though. I ordered it Friday after Thanksgiving and it seems like I.ve been waiting forever for it to arrive. Meanwhile hoping to pick up building hints I've monitored this reflector. I've never used the side of a cardboard box but instead a 12 x 12 sheet of styrofoam from the craft store to hold the parts and DVM to check EVERY resistor and VARIABLE TONE TESTER to check capacitors before mounting them on the pcb. This looks like the place to be should I have QUESTIONS or need a good sharp kick in the motivator [g]. 72/71 de RC kc5wa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] monday
Hi I would make a couple of suggestions. One I would not use the styrofoam as it generates a lot of static electricity and may damage some parts. I use cardboard or metal pans to dump all the parts into for sorting. The resistors will come on a tape sequenced in the order you will need them. Do not remove the resistors from the tape until you need them. If you must measure them with your meter leave them on the tape. Save the yellow coin envelopes and use them to place all of the brown capacitors of each value and mark the value on the outside of the envelope. I lay all of the little blue caps out in a metal pan with the values facing up so I can find them quickly. Some builders place them into the side of corrugated cardboard and mark the value on the cardboard. There are dozens of methods just find one that works for you that keeps all the parts organized so you can find them quickly when needed and you will not lose anything between building sessions. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Robert Conleymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.netmailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 9:55 AM Subject: [Elecraft] monday I can hardly wait. My K1-2 (80/40) will be here Monday. I've built several smaller kits like the Rock mite etc. Nothing of this magnatude though. I ordered it Friday after Thanksgiving and it seems like I.ve been waiting forever for it to arrive. Meanwhile hoping to pick up building hints I've monitored this reflector. I've never used the side of a cardboard box but instead a 12 x 12 sheet of styrofoam from the craft store to hold the parts and DVM to check EVERY resistor and VARIABLE TONE TESTER to check capacitors before mounting them on the pcb. This looks like the place to be should I have QUESTIONS or need a good sharp kick in the motivator [g]. 72/71 de RC kc5wa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.netmailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htmhttp://mailman.qth.net/subscribershtm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.comhttp://www.elecraft.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] THANKS
Thanks to everyone. Don (KD5NDB), Don (W3FPR) Bob (W7AVK), Mark (AD5SS); The styrofoam has been put in the trash (not recycle ) bin. I lot of good ideas have come my way this morning and I appreciate them all. When building an SW+30 SW+40 I learned about marking the schematic and or the parts placement diagram with color markers. This from Dave Benson K1SWL I must go slow as I do not have full use of my left hand from residual stroke damage. I do enjoy building and try to learn from every project I tackle. If you wish to look at my web page it is at http://www.kc5wa-rc.com. again thanks to all. rc kc5wa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] monday
Don W3FPR wrote: I strongly advise against using styrofoam from the craft store to hold the parts - it creates static which can damage active components. It is OK with resistors and capacitors, but I hesitate to keep any of that stuff near my workbench on the off chance that it will brush against something and zap it. The black foam stuff that sensitive parts are often stuck into is fine for holding components. - I'll certainly second Don's comments about styrofoam. Having it around is sort of like storing computer floppy disks in a drawer full of magnets, Hi! When you inventory (Everyone inventories, right? Even me, sometimes...) do NOT take the ICs supplied in plastic carriers out of them. Those are anti-static carriers and you should be wearing a ground strap or touch a known ground with your fingers just before handling one out of the package. Touch the ground again regularly or wear a ground strap while you are working with them. The same is true for individual boards containing the firmware chips. I haven't carefully analyzed the K2 circuits, but it is very common for a board that has been unplugged from the system to have some inputs to a sensitive IC floating because the circuit is open at the connector. They are then as liable to be zapped with a small static charge as if you were handling the individual IC. When you set an assembled board aside, an empty anti-static bag is a great place to put it. At the very least, handle it as if it were a static-sensitive IC and ground yourself first. Note, you will receive lots of small relays in tubes very much like the ICs. They aren't static sensitive. Also, when looking over the parts it's good to open the bags one at a time. If you have trouble identifying a part, being able to check which bag it came from will often help. Of course, you can't do that if you dump the contents of several bags together. When I built my K2 I worked on a very small temporary bench. I left the parts in the shipping bags until they were needed. Yes, it took a little longer to find a part now and again, but it probably helped me be very careful to check the value of the part BEFORE I inserted it on the board and AFTER I inserted the leads and before soldering. As one other fellow here pointed out, assuming that you have the right part in hand because it came out of a certain pile is an invitation to error. Always double-check. Also, when you check, double check WHERE the part is on the board as well as its value. It's amazing how a part can seem to move over to the wrong set of holes! I helped a buddy troubleshoot his K2 recently. It had a weird problem that I simply could not find, until I finally noticed that two resistors side-by-side on a board were reversed! I must have looked at them 50 times, carefully checking the values, before I realized that the values were FB, but the positions were wrong! A capacitor tester might make you feel more comfortable if it'll help you confirm the values, but the instruction manual has the actual markings indicated for each part. Bad caps or resistors are exceedingly rare. That said, I do use an ohmmeter frequently because some resistors have color markings that are very hard to see clearly. Take your time. Pay attention to what you are doing. Double, even triple check your work as you go and you'll be rewarded with a rig that makes sweet sounds the first time you apply power. Most of all, have fun! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Things to sort kit parts into
A good material for holding sorted parts is EPP anti-static foam. This is a stiff foam, not squishy, and is a pink color. Cut it down to about 1/2 thick slabs and stick component leads straight into it. I usually take small sticky notes and tack them onto the side of the slab with the parts values penciled in for what is stuck into the foam. I group all the similar parts together. These slabs with parts stuck in them can easily be moved around between building sessions and if tilted or tipped won't spill like tins or sheets. I don't know a specific source for this material but I have obtained more than enough of it over the years from the inside of packing boxes for CRTs and other computer equipment. EPP stands for Expanded Polypropylene and is a stiff and kind of glossy foam with large air cells. If you press hard on the foam will rebound to it's original shape slowly. It is a great packing material for filling space and absorbing shock. Maybe someday Elecraft will use it to pack kits and we would be able to use the packing material to sort the parts Another good sorting container is the recycled cardboard separator trays for bulk packs of jelly packages (the kind you use in the restaurant). I use these separators to hold hardware, cores, wire, switches, etc. that are not susceptible to static. These work better than egg cartons because they are typically only about 1/2 deep and have circular or rectangular depressions about 2-4 sq inches in size. It is easy to see what you have and get it out. The separators I like the best are for round jelly packages and the whole tray is about 8x10. You can get these separators from coffee shops or breakfast restaurants who use hundreds of jelly packages a day and just throw away these packing items. Because they are cardboard you can write in the bottom of the depression what size screw or part is in that depression. When loaded with parts these trays can be stacked and picked up as a group to set aside between build sessions. I built my K2 using 4 of these for all the non-static parts. 73, Carl S.N5WNK2 #1241 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Things to sort kit parts into
I got some conductive foam for shipping of parts from these guys... http://www.staticspecialists.com/esdbags.htm#Foam%20and%20Bubble They have a couple choices in the $13-14 range for a sheet 2' x 3' x 1/4 Not free, but at least it's a source. Larry N8LP Carl, n5wn wrote: A good material for holding sorted parts is EPP anti-static foam. This is a stiff foam, not squishy, and is a pink color. Cut it down to about 1/2 thick slabs and stick component leads straight into it. I usually take small sticky notes and tack them onto the side of the slab with the parts values penciled in for what is stuck into the foam. I group all the similar parts together. These slabs with parts stuck in them can easily be moved around between building sessions and if tilted or tipped won't spill like tins or sheets. I don't know a specific source for this material but I have obtained more than enough of it over the years from the inside of packing boxes for CRTs and other computer equipment. EPP stands for Expanded Polypropylene and is a stiff and kind of glossy foam with large air cells. If you press hard on the foam will rebound to it's original shape slowly. It is a great packing material for filling space and absorbing shock. Maybe someday Elecraft will use it to pack kits and we would be able to use the packing material to sort the parts Another good sorting container is the recycled cardboard separator trays for bulk packs of jelly packages (the kind you use in the restaurant). I use these separators to hold hardware, cores, wire, switches, etc. that are not susceptible to static. These work better than egg cartons because they are typically only about 1/2 deep and have circular or rectangular depressions about 2-4 sq inches in size. It is easy to see what you have and get it out. The separators I like the best are for round jelly packages and the whole tray is about 8x10. You can get these separators from coffee shops or breakfast restaurants who use hundreds of jelly packages a day and just throw away these packing items. Because they are cardboard you can write in the bottom of the depression what size screw or part is in that depression. When loaded with parts these trays can be stacked and picked up as a group to set aside between build sessions. I built my K2 using 4 of these for all the non-static parts. 73, Carl S.N5WNK2 #1241 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 10:27:46 GMT, Stewart Baker wrote: Hi Jim, I am interested in how you fixed the pin1 problem on the K2 mic connector. The only mod that I am aware of to addresses this is connecting the socket shell to the Front panel board earth plane. As you comment this can cause an interference voltage to be developed across the board circuitry. I sent Stewart a photo of what I did. I can send it to others, but I don't think the list accepts attachments. Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Heil MD2 microphone... finally !!!
Hi, I finally receive my first Christmas gift from myself ;-)... my Heil MD2 Elcraft K2 edition. Just installed it in my shack last night with the Pro Line Mic Boom works like a charm... And looks very professional ! See it at my my website... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum41.html Proud to be in the Elecraft family !!! 73 === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elecraft K2 #4130 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil MD2 microphone... finally !!!
I got mine yesterday as well! Works great! Reggie k6xr - Original Message - From: Jean-François Ménard [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft - Maling List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 11:06 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Heil MD2 microphone... finally !!! Hi, I finally receive my first Christmas gift from myself ;-)... my Heil MD2 Elcraft K2 edition. Just installed it in my shack last night with the Pro Line Mic Boom works like a charm... And looks very professional ! See it at my my website... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum41.html Proud to be in the Elecraft family !!! 73 === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elecraft K2 #4130 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Microphone Stands
Members, If you do not already have one than take this opportunity to save a bundle and get a very nice addition to the line. They look so good. Paul K8QT #3479 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
I can host photos for list members. Just email me directly the photo, and it'll soon be available at http://www.visioncomm.net/images/yourPhotoName. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 PS: We also host the ECN website. snip I sent Stewart a photo of what I did. I can send it to others, but I don't think the list accepts attachments. Jim Brown K9YC /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Scratchy received audio
In a message dated 02/12/04 10:30:24 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Symptom:- Received audio sounding scratchy, suspected loudspeaker. Problem:- Bad contact. The plating (Tin ?) had worn through on loudspeaker connector female crimp pins. Had a similar problem with the company's 1979 vintage GE Mastr II truck radios used in an area with no roads. The continuous vibration caused the board connector pins from the front panel to the RF/IF/audio board to go intermittent for exactly the same reason, loss of tin coating on the plugs. The solution apart from replacing the interboard connectors was to apply an extremely thin coating of lubricant to the pins. This seemed to have a lasting effect on the problem. Just a small smear of WD40 worked wonders. The socket must have been acting as an effective abrasive mechanism on the pin. Totally unnecessary if the contact remains undisturbed with normal operating conditions, but essential in our case. Bob, G3VVT ex desert rodent ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Fan won't stop
Just had a nice CW qso at 80w with a fellow in Ca, but now the fan on my K2 won't stop running. The rig is completely cool, but yet the fan keeps running on high. When I started the QSO it was off. Now even after the rig shut off for a 1/2 hour, when I turn it back on, the fan comes on as well. In the control settings with PA menu, hitting display shows Fan Hi, Fan Hi/LO and Fan Nor, switching between these settings makes no difference at all, the fan keeps going at a high and noisy speed. Any ideas where to check for problems? I don't recall what circuit/device triggers the fan to run. Even if I run in QRP mode, with the PA OFF, the fan is still running on high Thx K5GUS Dan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Fan won't stop
Dan: Check to see that the temperature setting is correct. Go to the CAL TPA menu item. When the TPA is underlined, hold the MENU button for a short bit and let it up. The temperature setting will now be displayed. When the rig has been off for a long while, it ought to read room temperature (in C). If not, reset it by turning the tuning knob. I believe it has been reported that some people have found this setting to have altered to its highest reading, causing the fan to run all the time. I have no idea why it should change, but the gremlins of the world are always with us. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On Dec 3, 2004, at 11:04 PM, Dan Schieler wrote: Just had a nice CW qso at 80w with a fellow in Ca, but now the fan on my K2 won't stop running. The rig is completely cool, but yet the fan keeps running on high. When I started the QSO it was off. Now even after the rig shut off for a 1/2 hour, when I turn it back on, the fan comes on as well. In the control settings with PA menu, hitting display shows Fan Hi, Fan Hi/LO and Fan Nor, switching between these settings makes no difference at all, the fan keeps going at a high and noisy speed. Any ideas where to check for problems? I don't recall what circuit/device triggers the fan to run. Even if I run in QRP mode, with the PA OFF, the fan is still running on high Thx K5GUS Dan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
