[Elecraft] Status report
Pleased to report that #04554 is going well. I now have installed four options: KNB2, KDSP2, K160RX AND KSB2. Everything went pretty smoothly. With the exception of the KSB2, everything worked according to hoyle right off the bat. The KSB2 unit would not communicate with the main processor. I went back and checked and found I had forgotten to finish soldering in the P1 connector. I had carefully rechecked the bottom of the board but forgot to go back through the top. A few dabs of solder on the remaining pins and # 04554 was off to the races. Next option to install is the 60 meter module. That does not look too complicated. I now have a question: I plan to eventually go for the 100 watt option, but not right away. Can you use the 100 watt antenna tuner in the QRP version or do you have to have the 100 watt unit installed first? . ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Two K2 top covers...
Hi, I'm just thinking if it's possible to have two top covers for my K2 and if yes what is there to be thought of? Are they to be changed without problem - just unplug and plug? I currently have the qrp cover :-) SPKR, ATU, BAT and KIO and I am thinking about one qro cover. Merry x-mas to everyone! Gerhard, DH3FAW ___ Gesendet von Yahoo! Mail - Jetzt mit 250MB Speicher kostenlos - Hier anmelden: http://mail.yahoo.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 burn-in
When I use the K2/100 to drive an amp in a contest, CW or SSB, I can't keep my hand on the heat sink. Running about 40-50w to drive the amp. Fan on K2/100 runs continuously when running stations. There doesn't seem to be any ill effects. N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bill Coleman Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2004 10:37 PM To: Tom Althoff Cc: Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 burn-in On Dec 1, 2004, at 1:14 PM, Tom Althoff wrote: Has anyone really hammered their K2/100 with high CQ or QSO rates for a 24 hour period without a secondary fan? I'd be curious how it held up and were you successful in cooking eggs on it? On CW, I've run for a couple of hours at a time at the 100 watt level. The top gets very hot, but not so hot you can't place your hand on top of the heat sink. It's uncomfortable, but not painful. On SSB, the heat sink gets very warm, but not quite so hot as CW after running a couple of hours. In both cases, the fan runs continuously. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: [Elecraft] RF build up
Alan, I think you may have unwittingly hit on one explanation for Long Delayed Echos. All those CW characters freeze on the antenna and stay there untill a thaw, then they melt and radiate(at least some do, many may just drip onto the ground). Then, you hear them and think, AHA,an LDE!!. Another mystery solved!! 73 and a tounge-in-cheek Merry Christmas to all, John N4FLJ Alan Slusher wrote: Tony: I am sure that you can find evidence of the effect of weather on rf (see below). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Two K2 top covers...
A lot of us do exactly that Gerhard. After I built my KPA-100 I found myself yearning for the built-in battery and ATU so that is my normal configuration. If I want to run LP or HP in a contest then I take off 6 screws and put in the KPA-100. Takes under a minute to do. One trick is do NOT remove the 4 top screws towards the middle of the top cover but remove the 2 side screws. Those have to be taken out for the KPA-100 to be installed. I'm actually tempted to set up some kind of screws with knurled knobs so I can swap covers without using any tools. Read up on MOJO in the archives. I believe you'll see a slight decrease in mojo when running with the KPA-100 installed but it is not objectionable. 73 and Merry Christmas to all on the Elecraft list. Tom K2TA K2 #1117 Greenwood Lake, NY - Original Message - From: GS [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mailingliste Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 7:02 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Two K2 top covers... Hi, I'm just thinking if it's possible to have two top covers for my K2 and if yes what is there to be thought of? Are they to be changed without problem - just unplug and plug? I currently have the qrp cover :-) SPKR, ATU, BAT and KIO and I am thinking about one qro cover. Merry x-mas to everyone! Gerhard, DH3FAW ___ Gesendet von Yahoo! Mail - Jetzt mit 250MB Speicher kostenlos - Hier anmelden: http://mail.yahoo.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Status report
GM George: I plan to eventually go for the 100 watt option, but not right away. Can you use the 100 watt antenna tuner in the QRP version or do you have to have the 100 watt unit installed first? Oh, ABSOLUTELY the KAT100 will function perfectly with the barefoot K2 regardless of whether the KPA100 is installed or not! HOWEVER...!!! One minor problem, which CAN be overcome by just a bit of novel wiring 'around' the problem. The KAT100 depends upon access to the AUXBUS communications signal from the K2 in order to communicate between the K2 and the KAT100. If the KPA100 was installed, this AUXBUS signal would come via the serial communications adapter which is part of the KPA100. If the KPA100 is not present, the signal would then (normally) have to come via the KIO2 serial communications adapter which also provides AUXBUS comms at its output. The fact that you (at this time) have neither the KIO2 nor the KPA100 means that the requisite AUXBUS signal communications are not present by default. This CAN, and HAS been circumvented by some builders...! Go to: http://www.fidalgo.net/~wa7gxd/k2kpa100.html#NOKIO2 This takes you to the web site of Lyle Johnson, KK7P, and the section titled Update! 2002 November 14 - Using a KAT100 Remotely Without a KIO2. This describes the 'novel wiring' I spoke about above for this minor(!) mod which WILL allow you to use the KAT100 without having installed either the KIO2 or the KPA100 first. The parts required for this, I believe, can be obtained directly from [EMAIL PROTECTED], OR they can be obtained from Mouser or DigiKey as well. If you order from Elecraft, you'll have to order using their part numbers, which I can probably supply in a subsequent communication... don't have them at my fingertips right now. The components can be easily assembled onto a small piece of scrap PC board using either hay-wired or Manhattan-style construction techniques. And the PC board wrapped with tape and allowed to remain inside the case of the K2, with the cable being brought out to a DB-9 jack via the KIO2 hole in the back of the K2 case. Although Lyle covers his backside by stating, Note that it is untested. The risk is entirely yours., I'm confident it will work, AND the it's probably been used by a number builders already. I'd suggest you drop a note to Lyle at [EMAIL PROTECTED] to confirm this fact... he should know by now... it's been around for a couple years. Though I don't have anything at present, I'll see about whipping up a small through-hole PC board to accommodate the components and to make construction much easier. If you decide to use this method of attaching your KAT100 without the KPA100 or KIO2, please drop me a note after Christmas to see how much headway I've made on the PC board. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: K2
I'm selling one of my K2s, s/n 3155, which has the following options installed: KNB2, KAF2, KSB2 K160M. I purchased this K2 in Dec. of 2002, and built it in 2003. This K2 was built with the K2 toroid kit from The Toroidguy, AA3WF. Price is $750, including shipping. Email me at w2vdatarrl.net or mrossatemail.com if interested. Tnx 73 de Mike, W2VD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4595 No Joy
Ed, Put the K2 into CAL FCTR mode and check the voltage at U6 pin 3 - it should swing from 0 to 4 volts when tapping the BAND+ and BAND- buttons. Similarly, U6 pin 1 should swing from 0 to 8 volts. (If you read almost 0 volts and almost 8 volts all is OK). If you have the correct voltage swing at U6 pin 3, but not at pin 1, the problem is likely to be found on the thermistor board - if the voltage swing is not good at pin 3, the problem lies in the 12 bit DAC or in the signals coming from the MCU. If the voltage swings at U6 are OK, then check the path through R19 and RP2 to the cathodes of the varactors. Look at the schematic to see 'which parts are connected to what'. Be certain the diodes are correct (D17 has a smaller body than D16) and that all connections are well soldered. When you have finished checking your soldering, check the soldering - it is the most common cause of problems. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Spent all of yesterday trying to figure out the problem with the low range value during the PLL reference oscillator range test. I removed the thermistor board as was suggested and checked the components for value and location and reheated any joints that looked even a little suspect. Still have a range of 8 Khz. I've checked everything in the PLL area and all components are of the correct value and where they are supposed to be. Following suit as with the thermistor board I reheated any joints that might be considered suspect. I did find that R110 has a low value as compared to its color code. It is supposed to be 5.6K and it measures 3.7K. I don't think this low R110 value would affect the PLL reference oscillator range with it being in the variable bandwidth crystal filter circuitry. I have to be missing something here. Ideas? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RF Buildup
Dave, I found a great device to help with that problem, which even in Tennessee happens from time to time. The device is a YuleLog 2.004 and is also available in a QRP version the YuleTwig 2.004. It's available on the web. I understand next year's model will come in tape form as well. You may wish to try coating it with GoodCHeer this coming Spring, it has the tendency to keep the RF flowing year round. Best Wishes to All! Cheers, and only tears of laughter in 2005, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 burn-in
Bill Coleman wrote: On Dec 1, 2004, at 1:14 PM, Tom Althoff wrote: Has anyone really hammered their K2/100 with high CQ or QSO rates for a 24 hour period without a secondary fan? I'd be curious how it held up and were you successful in cooking eggs on it? On CW, I've run for a couple of hours at a time at the 100 watt level. We used my K2/100 for the run station in CQ WW CW from Labrador Lots of 140+ hours - the heatsink got hot, the eggs (we did omelets!!) had a nice pattern in them from the heatsink fins! Actually the heat sink got hot not burning hot. Sunday I did turn the fan on high, but I don't think it was really necessary. The hams in Labrador City were impressed with the K2 and the fact that we would bring one for the run station! 73and Happy Holidays! HankK8DD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: FW: [Elecraft] RF build up
Lo' these all-too-many-winters ago there were actual reports of Hams using folded dipoles with open wire line in heavy ice/snow regions. As y'all probably know, a folded dipole has a direct current continuity across the feeders, since it's essentially a dipole with an extra wire running parallel to the dipole radiator and connected at each end. If a dangerously heavy ice coating appeared, they'd connect the feeders to a variable power source and allow enough current to flow to heat the wires and melt the ice. Took a while, but it beat trying to splice and raise the antenna again in mid-winter. Being a California Boy in those days - Southern California at that - I never really had any need to test the idea first-hand. While others were snowed and iced-in up to their end-insulators, we were praying for a few drops of rain before the dry season resumed in the spring. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Another question concerning the Heil knurled ring
Has anyone received any communications from Bob Heil concerning the missing knurled ring on his CB1 desk stand? I sent an inquiry via e-mail on the 16th of this month but I have not received a reply yet. -- John K7SVV -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.298 / Virus Database: 265.6.4 - Release Date: 12/22/2004 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: AGC versus RF Gain versus AF gain
As others have pointed out, only a single I.F. amplifier chip is gain controlled in the K2. The RF gain, the gain of post mixer I.F. amplifier transistor, and the gain of the active product detector are not controlled through AGC, yet they all contribute to the receiver's total gain. Since the I.F. amplifier chip has a gain range of about 50 db (min to max) (if memory serves correctly), that's about all the AGC range you'll have for the entire receiver as a whole. The RF attenuator/bypass/RF amplifier provide about 24 dB (-10 db to +14 db) of manual gain control. The volume control provides the rest. :-) About 20 years ago I converted an old Hammarlund HQ-140-X receiver to a solid state design. The Hammarlund's AGC controlled the gain of the RF amplifier and three I.F. amplifiers (all 6BA6 remote cutoff pentodes). I kept the same philosophy after converting each of these stages to 40673 MOSFETs. The input of each 455 kHz I.F. stage was (is) through a tap on each of the I.F. interstage transformers. This gain deprives each I.F. amplifier a bit, and is possibly done for maintaining stability, rather than for reasons of impedance matching. However, since there's still more gain than is needed for the receiver, and since ALL of the RF and IF stages are AGCed, a tremendous amount of AGC range is available. (Significantly more than if only 2 I.F. stages were used without the gain-depriving transformer taps.) The result of having nearly all of the receiver's total gain under AGC control is that the difference in volume when tuning between a strong signal (such as an AM broadcast) and an empty band (10-meter band noise at night) is almost negligible. With a large amount of receiver gain under AGC control, the volume control essentially becomes a set-and-forget adjustment. Happy Holidays, everyone. 73, de John, KD2BD = Visit John on the Web at: http://www.qsl.net/kd2bd/ __ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RF Falling from the Aether (was RF build up)
During the 40 meter Elecraft Net last Sunday the RF was falling short of my antenna. Later that evening I discovered windrows of it scattered East of my antenna. I raked it up and brought it in to sit next to the woodstove over night. I now have a pail full of what appears to be alphabet soup. Trouble is the connections between the letters has been broken so I just have the individual letters and not the words nor sentences. I may just have to paste all of this in my log until Spring when it may make a bit more sense. I do wish the call signs at least would have stuck together and then I could acknowledge their reception albeit in quite a strange manner. Maybe Santa will bring us all RF heaters for our stations. Season's greetings to you all, Kevin. KD5ONS K2 #2511 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.2 - Release Date: 12/20/2004 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RF build up
You know Alan, you may have something there. Some points I would like to make: When it is a rainy day or a gloomy day you tend to slow down. Maybe that happens to RF also? Is that a rain effect or a state of mind or state of electrical field? Your explanation of swr (slow wave radio) may be correct. Since the CW speed tends to slow down as it is radiated when you have ice on the antennas, I wonder if the reverse is also true? If you have ice on the antennas and you are receiving fast CW, maybe it will be slowed down so it is easier to copy? Another point I would like to make is about the aluminum in beams. You ever notice how your shiny new beam works so well? After a few years you get the bug to buy another bigger and better antenna because you aren't as good in the pileups anymore? Maybe the aluminum got dull because all the electrons were radiated? So without enough electrons you don't have as strong a signal. Just a thought. Happy Holidays and may you have another box from Elecraft under your tree. N2TK, Tony #3481 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Alan Slusher Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2004 1:16 PM To: 'Tony Davis'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: FW: [Elecraft] RF build up Tony: I am sure that you can find evidence of the effect of weather on rf (see below). One of the things I notice is that cw signals sound weaker while it is raining. I always thought that that was because the rain was washing some of the rf out of the air, leaving a smaller amount of radio waves to induce emf in my antenna wire. Since it is also possible that the rain may be washing voltage off the antenna wire itself, I've been thinking of bring the antenna inside the garage, so that the metal roof could shield it from the rain. The other thing I notice is that all the ham bands seem to get weak towards the middle of the day and in the early afternoon. I always thought that had to do with the effects of the heat of the sun. You know how hot and tired you get at 2pm in the afternoon if you are out in the sun. All you want to do is to relax in the shade with a long cold drink. Why not the same situation for radio waves? After all, they are as much a part of nature as you and I. What you say? How come the waves are also weak if it is raining and overcast in the middle of the day? I thought I answered that in the preceding paragraph. What I don't seem to follow, and there doesn't seem to be an explanation for it, is what happens to the feedline when rf is frozen on the antenna, and cw coming from the transmitter at 27wpm leaves the antenna at 18wpm. There has to be some build-up of cw characters somewhere. My guess is the feedline. That is perhaps why old coax always seems to be fatter than new coax: lots of unsent cw characters have distended it. My question is: what happens if there are more characters building up than the feedline can hold? Isn't this the real explanation for swr? Isn't swr higher in winter than in summer? Cheers, and Merry Christmas Alan 8P9BM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 8, Issue 22/CW
23. RE: FW: [Elecraft] CW (Ron D'Eau Claire) When I couldnot find any Vibroplex bugs with slow springs at their store in NY I would generally take a full size(Blue Racers automatically excluded) one aboard my boat and grind the flat spring that connects the weight arm to the paddles. A little circular indentation ground on both sides of the spring would bring down the speed with the two weights relatively near the end of the weight bar. To go fast slide the weight up. To work KPH slide them back down again. Some bugs seemed to have a natural speed resonance and equally important for ship use was the dash feedback that came into our thumb as most often we would not have anything aboard with which to monitor orselves unlesss we were a lucky boat with 2 HF receivers. On the LF rig electronic bugs were useless until hv transistors came out as the key up voltage could exceed 500v.That keying relay also limited the speed as it had a large fraction of an inch as spacing. No monitor necessary as the LF rx was a regen. Ask me if I miss it! 73 Earl W7TK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Handles
I've just painted and installed my handles that were manufactured for the gang. The side panels that were removed had bare metal on the top two screw locations. Should I do the same with the new handle panels or is it OK to just install. Thanks Phil Philip LaMarche LaMarche Enterprises, Inc. www.instantgourmetspices.com 727-944-3226 (800) 395-7795 pin 02 Cell 727-510-5038 FAX- 727-937-8834 N.A.S.F.T # 30210 W9DVM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.290 / Virus Database: 265.6.4 - Release Date: 12/22/2004 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Handles
Phil LaMarche wrote: I've just painted and installed my handles that were manufactured for the gang. The side panels that were removed had bare metal on the top two screw locations. Should I do the same with the new handle panels or is it OK to just install. I presume you are talking about the ones made by Randy, K3QO. When I painted mine, I masked the entire section of the inside that went against the K2. That insured that there would be good contact between the parts where they were screwed together, and that the KPA100 shield grounding fingers would have a clean place to press against. I would definitely recommend removing the paint in these areas if you have already painted them. A note on painting them for anyone who hasn't done it yet: I cleaned up the handle punchouts with a fine round file, and then gave both sides of mine a couple of swipes with an orbital sander. This removed surface imperfections and created a finish with some tooth to hold the paint. Then I primed them with 'etching primer' which I purchased at the local Pep Boys auto supply store. I used two light coats. Then I sanded the surfaces VERY lightly with 800-grit wet-dry paper (also from Pep Boys). You need to be careful not to sand the corners or it will take the primer off. Finally I painted them satin black (also purchased from you-know-where) to match the KPA100 heat sink. I am VERY happy with these side panels with handles, and so far the paint is holding up. When I've tried to paint aluminum in the past with regular (non-etching) primer and without the orbital sander step, the paint has been very ready to come off at the slightest provocation! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Yosemite Sam zulu time
It used to be Standard Operating Procedure for all hams to keep their logs in Zulu, (Greenwich) time, in that for working other countries or other time zones, this is the only practical way to keep QSL card records. I think it is remiss of current education in ham radio, that we do not emphasize the continued need for ALL emergency work, and casual operating records, to be kept, and in Zulu time, just in case we have to document it at some future time; when we were on the air on a particular date. Don't forget the date roll over, if your local date is some zones removed from GMT. Perhaps this lax time keeping currently, grew out of the dropping of the requirement of keeping a log; but I keep one for HF anyway, just in case, and for QSL purposes, and documentation of emergency communications. Likewise, in working drills for ARES with Red Cross, we keep the Red Cross log in GMT, to have an unambiguous time reference, and we keep a clock marked GMT, in the Red Cross shack. It really helps to use that 24 hour based system, to know if an emergency message was delivered at midnite or noon. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Yosemite Sam zulu time
Two log and time related comments: - Keeping a log is great when you have a neighbor that complains that you're the reason his (TV, Radio, VCR, Computer, Microwave, or Cat) went on the blink last week. You can go back and ask him when it happened and confirm/deny it was you when you both look over your log book. - Sticklers for time in the U.S. should run (not walk) to WalMart (or Amazon.com) and pick up a new Casio Wave Ceptor Analog/Digital WWVB watch. The second time zone can be set to GMT (not London... there's a separate setting for London). The GMT setting is not prone to DST adjustments - meaning that there is no excuse for not being able to log the correct UTC/GMT time in your log. I've had mine for over a week, and I absolutely love this watch. - Daniel / AA0NI --- Stuart Rohre [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It used to be Standard Operating Procedure for all hams to keep their logs in Zulu, (Greenwich) time, in that for working other countries or other time zones, this is the only practical way to keep QSL card records. I think it is remiss of current education in ham radio, that we do not emphasize the continued need for ALL emergency work, and casual operating records, to be kept, and in Zulu time, just in case we have to document it at some future time; when we were on the air on a particular date. Don't forget the date roll over, if your local date is some zones removed from GMT. Perhaps this lax time keeping currently, grew out of the dropping of the requirement of keeping a log; but I keep one for HF anyway, just in case, and for QSL purposes, and documentation of emergency communications. Likewise, in working drills for ARES with Red Cross, we keep the Red Cross log in GMT, to have an unambiguous time reference, and we keep a clock marked GMT, in the Red Cross shack. It really helps to use that 24 hour based system, to know if an emergency message was delivered at midnite or noon. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: FW: [Elecraft] K2 Handles
Thanks! That's nice looking. I was imagining something sticking out the side (Who would need two!). Those stick out the front and make mucho sense. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 ref: http://www.visioncomm.net/images/handles.jpg Vic sends: Here is a picture of my K2 with the side panels made by Randy, K3QO (formerly W4JP). Note the way the panels extend forward to make handles and behind the K2 to protect the connectors. They are made of 1/8 aluminum, so they are very solid. I wouldn't trust him tho, you can tell by the placement of the keyer he's right-handed. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] G5RV advice...
Greetings fellow K2 opsI'm looking for advice on who makes a good G5RV antenna.I need something simple to put in the air for a few months on HF and used with my autotuner. thanks and 73ed ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Looking for some Test Equipment..
I am looking for capacitor and resistor decade boxes, a scope calibrator, a function generator, and a curve tracer (a octopus would do) I would like the Heathkit models if possible (nostalgia) , but any manufacturer will do. If anyone has some or all of these items for sale please let me know what you have, some details about them and what the price would be shipped to zip 45324. I have a few kits I'm going to work on this winter and want to add to my test bench. Thanks and Happy Holidays Tim NZ8J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] UTC display clock [Was: Yosemite Sam zulu time]
Stuart Rohre wrote: It used to be Standard Operating Procedure for all hams to keep their logs in Zulu, (Greenwich) time, in that for working other countries or other time zones, this is the only practical way to keep QSL card records. It's annoying that the Windows clock program won't let you select a time zone. I've written a tiny Windows (98, XP) program called UTC that displays the time and date in UTC on the screen when your system clock is set to your local time. It figures out UTC from the time zone information made available by windows. It can be resized, locked in place, set to stay on top, etc. to fit in with your desktop. It's a big help in logging. It is freeware as long as you promise to operate only CW for a week (just kidding). You can download it by clicking http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/utcv01.zip Just unzip it and read the UTCREADME.TXT file. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 -RF disappears
My KPA100 has no RF out. Low power from the K2 is great. In checking I find RF as far as T1-5 then it stops. The primary winding shows 300 ohms to ground from T1-5. Does this teflon wire have that much resistance?? I guess I just dont understand why the power is not being transferred and would appreciate some help from others. Thank you, EArl VE3FBK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] zulu time
Hi all How abt changing the subject since we are now discussing time instead of Sam?? Ron Wb1hga ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 -RF disappears
Earl, You may want to touch up the soldering on T1-5 and T1-4 first. Either T1 has a broken primary wire or a bad solder connection. The 300 ohms resistance reading is proper with an open primary - R22 is in parallel with the T1 primary winding. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - My KPA100 has no RF out. Low power from the K2 is great. In checking I find RF as far as T1-5 then it stops. The primary winding shows 300 ohms to ground from T1-5. Does this teflon wire have that much resistance?? I guess I just dont understand why the power is not being transferred and would appreciate some help from others. Thank you, EArl VE3FBK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: FW: [Elecraft] K2 Handles
I sent in a picture of my K2 as T32QS, withe the same side panels (but unpainted) which made packing the rig for travel very easy. Unfortunately, oone of the reasons I made so few RTTY contacts on that trip is that I forgot to take the lay-on-top fan for extra cooling. 73, doug From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 17:43:17 -0500 Thanks! That's nice looking. I was imagining something sticking out the side (Who would need two!). Those stick out the front and make mucho sense. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 ref: http://www.visioncomm.net/images/handles.jpg Vic sends: Here is a picture of my K2 with the side panels made by Randy, K3QO (formerly W4JP). Note the way the panels extend forward to make handles and behind the K2 to protect the connectors. They are made of 1/8 aluminum, so they are very solid. I wouldn't trust him tho, you can tell by the placement of the keyer he's right-handed. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Yosemite Sam zulu time
Stuart K5KVH wrote: I think it is remiss of current education in ham radio, that we do not emphasize the continued need for ALL emergency work, and casual operating records, to be kept, and in Zulu time, -- WhadidImiss??? Is there anyone who doesn't log in zulu?? Really??? I know a lot of ops who don't log, but that's just strange to me. Maybe it's just an OT habit, but I keep a station log - not just QSO records (which are electronic on my Palm Pilot nowadays since it makes it so easy to find prior contacts) but also a record book of doin's at AC7AC - experiments, incidents of escaping smoke, happy dances when no smoke got out, odd band cdx, and, lately, the ever present 'Yosemite Sam' threatening Varmit I'ma gonna blast you to smithereens... DSB on 3700, 6500 and 10,500 kHz (so far - I suspect he's on more frequencies because this transmission lasts about 5 seconds and repeats at exactly 40-second intervals. That allows time for 8 frequencies from a single transmitter!) Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: FW: [Elecraft] RF build up
As you well know Ron, that heating method works great on any closed loop antenna. I still have my old 304t_ filament transformer around for such occasions. It's good for 5 vac. @ 100 amps. Does a good job on conductive pipes that may freeze up which is normally not a problem here in Western Washington. Carry-on K2Bill#973 Lo' these all-too-many-winters ago there were actual reports of Hams using folded dipoles with open wire line in heavy ice/snow regions. As y'all probably know, a folded dipole has a direct current continuity across the feeders, since it's essentially a dipole with an extra wire running parallel to the dipole radiator and connected at each end. If a dangerously heavy ice coating appeared, they'd connect the feeders to a variable power source and allow enough current to flow to heat the wires and melt the ice. Took a while, but it beat trying to splice and raise the antenna again in mid-winter. Being a California Boy in those days - Southern California at that - I never really had any need to test the idea first-hand. While others were snowed and iced-in up to their end-insulators, we were praying for a few drops of rain before the dry season resumed in the spring. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] zulu time
Note in the discussions of using Zulu time that keeping a station log is apparently no longer required in the USA. In the UK a permanent log of station operation is still mandatory, whether it be in a book or by electronic means. Times have to be recorded in UTC (i.e. Zulu/GMT) together with other details such as frequency, class of emission and power used. Presumably this requirement is primarily for tracing sources of interference to other parties. Probably would keep a record even if it was not mandatory as it is invaluable to find out who and when you have contacted in the past. Getting to the point now anyway where I have brain erasure every time it goes dark outside. When this is added to a restricted hearing capability, is a subject to agitate she who must be obeyed in the extreme. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 AGC voltage question
Hi to all and season's greetings. I am in the process of building my K2/100, and have almost finished the RF board of the basic kit. Went through the alignment parts I and II with no problem but have a question regarding 1 reading: 1) During the AGC threshold adjustment (control board) the instructions call for adjustment of the potentiometer R1 until the voltage at the lead# 5 of U2 reaches 3.80V. In my case, the voltage can go to a max value of 3.78V with the R1 being fully counterclockwise. Since the difference is only .2V from the required value, I do not really know if this finding has any importance or needs to be addressed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Marinos ki4gin ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SCAF (was: K2 Handles)
ref: http://www.visioncomm.net/images/handles.jpg Vic, I notice you have a SCAF filter next to your K2. Is it homebrew? How do you like it? I've been thinking about building a SCAF filter, but not sure how useful it would be with the K2's adjustable filters. -- 73, Brian VE7NGR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
