[Elecraft] Let me build you a K2
Let me build you a K2. I have built 80 K2's to date. My prices are reasonable and you will receive a brand new K2, built and ready to play. Email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] 73 Alan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QSK CLICK
Hi, For anyone wanting to add the 100K resistor on the /MUTE line, there is no need to remove an IC - the trace from pin 17 of the MCU runs over to C23 on the front side of the control board - that trace can be easily cut and the resistor added from C23 to U6 pin 17 on th eback of the board. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Fred and others, I've lost track of who originated what mod to eliminate that QSK click that started for me when I installed the DSP option into the K2. What provided a good enough solution for me was the 100K resistor in series with pin 17 /MUTE of the MCU U6 on the control board. Why this worked I can't tell you for sure. The down side is that I think I had to remove a soldered IC so I could cut a trace and install the resistor. Getting the IC out was no problem for me since I have the appropriate vacuum desoldering equipment and experience to do it without hazard. Then too maybe I'm confusing this mod with another mod. Under some conditions - maybe 1-3% of the operating time - a light thumping remains in my full range headphones for short periods from unknown causes. It's so transitory that I never did anything further about it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: needing the address of the OM who sent $ 12 for a K1-2 filter board!
Chris Kf6vci Ph: 760 367 5718. 6063 Encelia Ave, 29 Palms, CA 92277. Your small package is ready, but the address was mislead when we moved. ___ ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun! http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Bandscope
I knocked up a little bandscope for the K2 / KIO2 a couple of hours ago. It's the software equivalent of ugly construction using junk box parts. It is alpha software - if that. It comes with no warranty that it will work, or won't screw up your system, and the only documentation you get is a short text file. It's basically a try out to see what I could do, more than anything else. If you're happy to try out experimental software and know what to do with a zip file, you can download a copy from the following URL: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo/files/k2bandscope.zip Enjoy! -- Julian, G4ILO (RSGB, ARRL) G4ILO's Shack: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QSK CLICK
This is a new one on me, as is the recent suggestion of increasing C72 from 10 to 100n on the KPA100. I get QSK clicks regardless of whether the PA is enabled or not, so I haven't tried the C72 mod. I have the KAF2 audio filter, no DSP. I have 1M0 in parallel with R17 (3M3) to speed up the QSK. Will the 100k /MUTE line mod help reduce the clicks? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks / 73 Fraser G4BJM #4368 For anyone wanting to add the 100K resistor on the /MUTE line, there is no need to remove an IC - the trace from pin 17 of the MCU runs over to C23 on the front side of the control board - that trace can be easily cut and the resistor added from C23 to U6 pin 17 on th eback of the board. 73, Don W3FPR _ It's fast, it's easy and it's free. Get MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4
Hello experts! I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed. I have just ordered a KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m to take advantage of the current propagation conditions. In reading the Instruction Sheet for the 80m band, I came across the reference to C78 (10 uf) installed on the bottom of the RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I switch back to my KFL1-4? Will it have any impact on the four band board? Thanks and 73, Lonnie NY2LJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Fw: Two radios one key
- Original Message - From: Dwayne Subject: Two radios one key Hi name is Dwayne (ve6qx) I just finished my K 2 , I can't beleive this little rig. Great rig and ues it a lot more then my I C 765 loaded with all the filters. But I have a problem I think. I have a switch that selects which radio is hooked to the antenna system. When on the k2 I make sure that the ic 765 is on another band and the mode is on ssb. ( k2 on cw) and works fine. But if I'am on cw with I C 765 and k2 is on ssb on another band. The k2 does sum strange things. (there is one key hooked to both rigs at the same time) I don't know if there is something in one of the menus or not ? Maybe the secondary menu .. Sure would like to leave the key hooked to both rigs. Even with the key hooked to the K 2 by itself and the K2 is in ssb and you touch the key the k2's receive will mute. Maybe this is standard and working as it should. When you have a min can you get back to me pseTnxDwayne ve6qx ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker
Hi everyone, I'm currently in Paris travelling with my K1 (SN 278) into which I recently (November 2004) installed the noise blanker. I've found those noise signals which the blanker kill _completely_ (Great job!) I've found signals which the blanker doesn't do a thing on (I can tune away from these signals so they're not broadband. They might be SWBC signals - but they don't sound anything like I can imagine them through the rx. -- They sound awful. Is this the intermod trade-off I've read about in a couple of other posts on the KNB1? ) I understand that the NB isn't designed for narrow band noise, so maybe this isn't unexpected. My question revolves around a third case where I have left the noise blanker turned on, even when there is no pulse noise - i.e. there is nothing that I would expect the blanker to work on. Sometimes when the blanker is ON there is an additional pulse-like noise modulation added to the normal band noise. This occurs in either LO or HI positions. Any hints? Is this an intermod issue again? I've tried the attenuator and it didn't affect the additive noise. Thanks and 73 Dave AE6RQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 #978, comments and questions on second stage
Hi Andrea! You wrote: L7 ... is really org-vio-gold (two people pronounced it definitely orange) instead of yel-vio-gold. Is it a packing error or a documentation error? --- L7 is a 4.7 uH inductor, so it is really Yellow! Orange-violet-gold would be 3.7 uH, not 4.7 uH. How does its color compare alongside L10, which is orange-orange-black (33 uH)? - You wrote: On a related note, how much clearance is there between the crystals and the battery packs? My crystals are not as well-aligned as those of other builders and I soldered the ground wire on the side rather than on top, per instructions. - page 47, receive current drain test: text states typical receive drain is 32mA; the included errata sheet instructs the builder to correct the figure (35mA) on the specifications page, but not here. Display brightness at 2 gives 35mA and the only thing that saved me from another silly have-a-cow situation was good memory. --- In both places the spec says about. The current will typically be a little lower at the point of the test than in normal operation because no signals are being received at that point. Sorry for the confusion. You make a good point about a better-defined spec. for the current drain test. I'll bring it up with the KX1 designer (Wayne). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] Fw: Two radios one key
The key is doing PTT on the K2 when it's in SSB mode. You're going to have to switch the key between the rigs to keep the K2 listening. TEST mode would assure you don't transmit into no antenna, but the Rx will still mute. This is operating as designed, DASH (Dot for you right-handed folks) and PTT are the same line. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip Subject: Two radios one key /snip Summary, Don't. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] kpa 100mdkt
I bought the kpa100mdkt kit and in reading the instructions it says to remove the circuit board from the heat sink which means you have to remove the screws that hold the transistors to the heat sink when I reinstall the transistors won't I need new heat sheilds under the transistors or can I reuse the old ones? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] kpa 100mdkt
David wrote: I bought the kpa100mdkt kit and in reading the instructions it says to remove the circuit board from the heat sink which means you have to remove the screws that hold the transistors to the heat sink when I reinstall the transistors won't I need new heat sheilds under the transistors or can I reuse the old ones? The first time I took the KPA100 board off of the heat sink I ordered a set of new thermal pads from Elecraft, just in case I damaged them. I needn't have worried; the transistors came off without damaging the pads. I have since taken it off a second time, and still no damage. The pads will stick to the transistors or to the heat sink. Just leave them where they are and don't mess with them! If you want to be 100% sure, then you can get the pads, but in my experience they weren't needed. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4
None! There is also a choke that needs to be installed if you use the KAT1 antenna tuner on 80 meters. BE ADVISED if you have 40 meters on TWO boards, besides reassigning the band one and two after you change from one board to another, you will have to also redo the calibration procedure for 40 meters each time. I just finished building a 2 band board for 160 and 80 meters. (160 is a non standard band..i.e.: Elecraft doesn't offer 160 as a band option) They have all the necessary parts to do this EXCEPT the band crystal. This must be ordered from ICM or another crystal manufacturer. When I switch boards, I just have to reassign band assignments and I'm off! Rig works great on 160 and 80! 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 3:30 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4 | Hello experts! | | I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed. I have just ordered a KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m to take advantage of the current propagation conditions. In reading the Instruction Sheet for the 80m band, I came across the reference to C78 (10 uf) installed on the bottom of the RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I switch back to my KFL1-4? Will it have any impact on the four band board? | | Thanks and 73, | | Lonnie NY2LJ | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4
Don, Yes, yes, please, please. I'd love to put the K1 on 160! Please send the info. 73, Lonnie -Original Message- From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 9:35 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4 Lonnie, I see yo already have a good answer, but I thought I might point out that I have added 160 meters to a 2 band K1 board for another ham - I can send you the instructions and parts list if you would like to do something like that. BTW, if you have the ATU in your K1, you will have to have an extra set of ATU headers for the additional board. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 4:30 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4 Hello experts! I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed. I have just ordered a KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m to take advantage of the current propagation conditions. In reading the Instruction Sheet for the 80m band, I came across the reference to C78 (10 uf) installed on the bottom of the RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I switch back to my KFL1-4? Will it have any impact on the four band board? Thanks and 73, Lonnie NY2LJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KFL1-2 on 160 meters
OK Lonnie, the following is a copy of my post a long time ago that described how to put a K1 2 band board on 160 meters. Unfortunately, Elecraft has not included this as a band kit, so you will have to look elsewhere for the crystal (Elecraft has all the other parts). 73, Don W3FPR -- Hi Folks, I have been successful in putting a K1 on 160 meters with full 7 watts output - well I peaked things at the low end of the band and got 7.4 watts, but it sagged to 6.8 watts at the high end - not really shabby - I conclude that the bandwidth is quite adequate. I borrowed the bandpass and low-pass filter values from the K2 and used the pre-mixer values that Steve K1HJ had used successfully, so I can claim no original design. This is not my K1, but one I had built for Curt W3HQ about 2 years ago. He sent me the K1 with a 2 band board - originally for 80 and 15 meters - but I did not even open the package with the 15 meter components. I ordered the following from Elecraft: Capacitors: 2 - E530002 1500 pf capacitor 3 - E530003 2700 pf capacitor 2 - E530005 1200 pf capacitor 2 - E530035 1800 pf capacitor 2 - E530052 560 pf capacitor 2 - E530053 680 pf capacitor 1 - E53005812 pf capacitor Inductors: 1 - E690007 33 uh inductor 2 - E690001 4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot) Toroid cores: 2 - E680001 T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color) I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance) from International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com. Also, I pulled a 820 ohm 1/4 watt resistor from my junkbox. If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also order the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft. The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO. I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2 locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were left empty at this time. Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire) on the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions. The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and L6. On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 and L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins). in addition, the 820 ohm resistor was soldered across L6. The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13. Form the leads under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my inductor is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans. Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding wire to the side of the can (or top if you prefer). The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions: C1 C5 - 680 pf C2 C4 - 2700 pf C3 - 12 pf C11 C15 - 1800 pf C12 C14 - 560 pf C21 C23 - 1500 pf C22- 2700 pf You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2 band board following the instructions in the K1 manual. Mine came up with no trouble at all. Perhaps Wayne and Eric would consider putting together a package of parts as an option for the 2 band board is there are enough requests for it. All the parts are stock items for Elecraft except for the crystal. Have fun with it, and let me know your results if you duplicate my efforts. In the next few weeks (well, maybe after Christmas) I will put together an article with a couple of photos for my webpage - I'll let you know when I have it complete. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
