[Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems
Sorry this is "off topic" but there is so much experience here. I've been licensed for only 2 years, my only rig is K1 so I've been QRP CW only (and enjoyed it immensely). I've recently started using a PA to get up to 100W on 3.5 to 21MHz, but RFI problems have started to appear. Here are the symptoms: 50Hz hum on key down on hi fi Similar problem on mains MW radio. Freezing of PC modem on key down. These are all in different rooms of the house and all at least 15 feet away from the rig. The rig is on the ground floor right next to the outside wall where the coax feeder runs out at ground level. Feeder is about 70 feet long and all at ground level until it rises to a multi dipole at 30 feet up, cut for 80/40/20m. Feed point is at least 50 feet from house. The feeder shield is connected directly to the PA ground point and therefore to the mains ground wire. I have no Balun and no RF ground so I guess I've broken all the rules. I suspect RF is on the mains 240V house wiring and can see it on my scope (about 5mV P-P superimposed on the mains). I have a number of things to try but not sure in what order of priority, maybe someone could help, I want to tackle the source of the RFI first, rather than the affected domestic equipment. Here's the list: Make a coax choke balun in the feeder to reduce out of balance currents (quick and cheap) Fit a commercial balun (heavy and pricey) Construct an RF ground in the garden and connect to feeder sheath at entry into the house. (time consuming) Fit a ferrite ring choke to the PA mains lead Build an inductively coupled ATU to avoid connection of feeder sheath to the mains ground. Fit ferrite ring chokes to the affected equipment Fit a proprietary RFI filter to the telephone line (to cure the modem problem) Or maybe I should just go back to QRP hi. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to run the risk of causing RFI to the neighbours. Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Which Mods are applicable
Jim, All listed kits include all the latest "mods". You do not have to buy anything else. The listed "mods" are available for customers to upgrade their existing Elecraft rigs. Go ahead and order your selected kit with confidence that your kit will be up to date. Just a very satisfied customer. 73, Bob VE3XM K2 S/N 02676 K2/100 S/N 04031 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 really rocks...
Hi All- Yesterday I heated up the KX-1 here at K0PQ, ran it off of my 13V supply, and enjoyed three of the most pleasant QRP Qs I'd had in several weeks with stations in Idaho, Illinois, and Washington. The Bencher Hex added even more fun. The little KX-1 continues to be an amazing rig. QRP FOREVER! 73... Steve Banks K0PQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Hello! I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and more solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the pads a bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution. Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now I'm on page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that doesn't work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron. I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that I have built. I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have this problem too? What can I do? 73 Gerhard Schwanz DH3FAW mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.gs-personal.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 09:59:35 +, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Sorry this is "off topic" but there is so much experience here. I've been > licensed for only 2 years, my only rig is K1 so I've been QRP CW only (and > enjoyed it immensely). I've recently started using a PA to get up to 100W > on 3.5 to 21MHz, but RFI problems have started to appear. Here are the > symptoms: > > 50Hz hum on key down on hi fi > Similar problem on mains MW radio. > Freezing of PC modem on key down. > > These are all in different rooms of the house and all at least 15 feet away > from the rig. > > The rig is on the ground floor right next to the outside wall where the > coax feeder runs out at ground level. Feeder is about 70 feet long and all > at ground level until it rises to a multi dipole at 30 feet up, cut for > 80/40/20m. Feed point is at least 50 feet from house. The feeder shield is > connected directly to the PA ground point and therefore to the mains ground > wire. I have no Balun and no RF ground so I guess I've broken all the > rules. > > I suspect RF is on the mains 240V house wiring and can see it on my scope > (about 5mV P-P superimposed on the mains). I have a number of things to try > but not sure in what order of priority, maybe someone could help, I want to > tackle the source of the RFI first, rather than the affected domestic > equipment. > > Here's the list: > Make a coax choke balun in the feeder to reduce out of balance currents > (quick and cheap) > Fit a commercial balun (heavy and pricey) > Construct an RF ground in the garden and connect to feeder sheath at entry > into the house. (time consuming) > Fit a ferrite ring choke to the PA mains lead > Build an inductively coupled ATU to avoid connection of feeder sheath to > the mains ground. > Fit ferrite ring chokes to the affected equipment > Fit a proprietary RFI filter to the telephone line (to cure the modem > problem) > > Or maybe I should just go back to QRP hi. > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to run the risk of > causing RFI to the neighbours. > > > Why not take a look at our Web site? > http://www.simoncarves.com > > * > The information in this email and any attachments may contain > privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for > the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. > If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the > employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, > you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or > copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. > If you have received this communication in error, please notify > me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. > * > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Things that I would try first:- a) Fit a balun (at the center of the dipole) or b) Make the antenna completely balanced by using open wire feeder, and a balanced ATU. You will notice a reduction in received noise as well as RFI reduction. Good luck 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo...
Hi again, just took a photo. You see it seems to affect only a special kind of hole (see picture). You can see on the picture that other holes work well. http://www.gs-roboter.de/problem.htm Iron is temp regulated at 330 deg C. Same like before. I already changed iron and solder. To no avail. 73 again. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
I had a similar experience with my recently completed K2/100. The KPA100 board was the only one with the issue. It seemed to me that very few of the components were very delicate, so I increased the heat of the iron a bit and was able to get the pads to accept solder. Just be careful on the few delicate components. In the end everything worked out fine. Keith Regli (K7KAR) mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.kregli.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gerhard Schwanz Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 7:06 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB? Hello! I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and more solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the pads a bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution. Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now I'm on page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that doesn't work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron. I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that I have built. I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have this problem too? What can I do? 73 Gerhard Schwanz DH3FAW mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.gs-personal.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Gerhard, I have found the KPA100 is more difficult to solder than other Elecraft kits, but I believe it is bacause that PC board uses thicker copper than the other kits and is especially noticable when soldering to a grounded pad. I increase the temperature on my soldering station to 750 to 800 degrees F. (400 to 430 degrees C.) and have no problem. The KPA100 manual states that a low wattage 800 degree F. soldering iron is required. Try increasing the temperature of your iron. Judging by your photo, I can definitely state that your iron is not hot enough, and the pads that give you the most trouble are the ground points. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and more solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the pads a bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution. Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now I'm on page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that doesn't work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron. I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that I have built. I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have this problem too? What can I do? 73 Gerhard Schwanz DH3FAW mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.gs-personal.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo...
Looks like the pads you are having problems with are connections to a ground (or power) plane. These often require more heat than a pad that is connected to a trace since the plane "wicks" the heat away. 73 Bob, WB3FXC > Subject: [Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo... > > > Hi again, > > just took a photo. You see it seems to affect only a special > kind of hole (see picture). You can see on the picture that > other holes work well. > > http://www.gs-roboter.de/problem.htm > > Iron is temp regulated at 330 deg C. Same like before. I > already changed iron and solder. To no avail. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: RFI Problems
With a horizontal loop around the roof, RFI is a problem for me. The RadioShack One-Outlet Electronic Equipment Surge Protector with 40dB Noise Filter 61-2430, $11.49, blocked RFI out of a new TV. Up to 40 dB noise reduction between 100 kHZ and 100 mHZ is claimed for the unit. http://support.radioshack.com/support_supplies/doc69/69038.pdf John, K7JG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo...
Gerhard, The pads in your photo appear to be ground-plane pads. Ground-plane pads require greater heat energy to solder, because the heat is absorbed and radiated by the larger surface area. Increasing you soldering iron temp to about 426 Deg C (800 Deg F) will solve this problem. -- 73, Rod N0RC - Original Message - From: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 7:24 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo... Hi again, just took a photo. You see it seems to affect only a special kind of hole (see picture). You can see on the picture that other holes work well. http://www.gs-roboter.de/problem.htm Iron is temp regulated at 330 deg C. Same like before. I already changed iron and solder. To no avail. 73 again. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Don, as allways - ? - you were right! I increased the temp to 430deg C and here I go. (Didn't know my iron could go beyond 400, I mostly use 300-330 without problem.) It still takes a bit longer to solder but the hole fills smoothly. Off the hook - the building can go on. :-) Regarding manual: I read the part with the needed iron but I understood the high power is needed for power transistor installation and such... And since everything else worked the way I did it before... Thank you very much! Gerhard Schwanz DH3FAW mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.gs-personal.de - Original Message - From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 3:40 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB? > Gerhard, > > I have found the KPA100 is more difficult to solder than other Elecraft > kits, but I believe it is bacause that PC board uses thicker copper than > the other kits and is especially noticable when soldering to a grounded pad. > > I increase the temperature on my soldering station to 750 to 800 degrees F. > (400 to 430 degrees C.) and have no problem. The KPA100 manual states that > a low wattage 800 degree F. soldering iron is required. > > Try increasing the temperature of your iron. Judging by your photo, I can > definitely state that your iron is not hot enough, and the pads that give > you the most trouble are the ground points. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > - Original Message - > > I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and more > solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the pads > a bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution. > > Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now I'm > on page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that > doesn't work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron. > > I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that I > have built. > > I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have > this problem too? What can I do? > > 73 > > Gerhard Schwanz > DH3FAW > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://www.gs-personal.de > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems
The short answer to your problem is - keep the RF inside the coax until it gets to the antenna. With an unbalanced feedline and no balun, you likely have considerable RF on the outside of the coax. Your list of possible cures is a good one, but add one more at the top - run the feedline away from the antenna at right angles for as far as possible - that places the feedline in a position where the fields should cancel and prevents the feedline from picking up radiation from one side of the antenna. Then start at the top of your list and try each item one at a time until you have found what is effective. If your antenna is located close to the equipment you are having difficulty with, as might be the case with a low antenna or an attic antenna, then QRP may be you only solution. Those devices are supposed to be unaffected by an RF field, but we all know what is supposed to be and what really is are two different things. Your neighbors should be further away from the antenna than your own equipment is located, so your local problem should be greater than theirs. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Sorry this is "off topic" but there is so much experience here. I've been licensed for only 2 years, my only rig is K1 so I've been QRP CW only (and enjoyed it immensely). I've recently started using a PA to get up to 100W on 3.5 to 21MHz, but RFI problems have started to appear. Here are the symptoms: 50Hz hum on key down on hi fi Similar problem on mains MW radio. Freezing of PC modem on key down. These are all in different rooms of the house and all at least 15 feet away from the rig. The rig is on the ground floor right next to the outside wall where the coax feeder runs out at ground level. Feeder is about 70 feet long and all at ground level until it rises to a multi dipole at 30 feet up, cut for 80/40/20m. Feed point is at least 50 feet from house. The feeder shield is connected directly to the PA ground point and therefore to the mains ground wire. I have no Balun and no RF ground so I guess I've broken all the rules. I suspect RF is on the mains 240V house wiring and can see it on my scope (about 5mV P-P superimposed on the mains). I have a number of things to try but not sure in what order of priority, maybe someone could help, I want to tackle the source of the RFI first, rather than the affected domestic equipment. Here's the list: Make a coax choke balun in the feeder to reduce out of balance currents (quick and cheap) Fit a commercial balun (heavy and pricey) Construct an RF ground in the garden and connect to feeder sheath at entry into the house. (time consuming) Fit a ferrite ring choke to the PA mains lead Build an inductively coupled ATU to avoid connection of feeder sheath to the mains ground. Fit ferrite ring chokes to the affected equipment Fit a proprietary RFI filter to the telephone line (to cure the modem problem) Or maybe I should just go back to QRP hi. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to run the risk of causing RFI to the neighbours. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Gerhard, I have a secret - if I don't have a good answer, I try to keep my mouth shut 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Don, as allways - ? - you were right! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 rx ant question
Hi, I am going to operate a little in the CQ WW 160 meter contest this weekend. My problem has always been too much noise on receive...I'm an alligator. I want to try using my 20-meter quad as a receiving-only antenna. The question is: the quad is right next to my inverted-L transmitting antenna. If the quad is connected to the K2 rant input, is there any danger of damaging the K2 when transmitting at the 1.5 KW level? 100 watts? -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 50Hz hum on key down on hi fi Similar problem on mains MW radio. Freezing of PC modem on key down. My suggestions, in order: 1) Try wrapping the speaker leads of your hi fi around ferrite rods or toroids. If this doesn't clear it up, try wrapping the mains cord from the hi fi around a ferrite as well. Try to get as many turns as possble. The clamp-on beads are not effective at HF. 2) Treat the radio in a similar fashion. 3) Use an inline telephone filter (such as the k-com or similar) on your modem phone line. Also wrap the power wire to the modem around a ferrite. 4) Add a balun of some kind to your dipole. There's a lot more that you can do, but this basic stuff should help. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Gerhard, The other thing that will help is using the Biggest tip that will do a job for you. If you tip has more mass, it will tend to have less temperature drop as you solder those components. I did my mine with a 700F (370C) tip, but I used the biggest one for a given job. Glad you found a resolution to your problem. Tim Raymer At 08:55 01/28/2005, Gerhard Schwanz wrote: I increased the temp to 430deg C and here I go.Off the hook - the building can go on. Timothy A. Raymer Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad joints on KPA100 again - with photo...
Your iron is too cold, Gerhard! I never solder below 375C to 400C. What's happening to you is that any pads that are attached to the ground plane like the ones in your photo are losing too much heat to the ground plane for solder to flow. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi again, just took a photo. You see it seems to affect only a special kind of hole (see picture). You can see on the picture that other holes work well. http://www.gs-roboter.de/problem.htm Iron is temp regulated at 330 deg C. Same like before. I already changed iron and solder. To no avail. 73 again. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Gerhard wrote: I mostly use 300-330 without problem.) It still takes a bit longer to solder but the hole fills smoothly. --- Gerhard, using too low of a temperature is more likely to harm delicate components than using a higher temperature. You do not want to hold an iron on the joint too long, even at 300C. It should be hot enough for the solder to flow within 2 or 3 seconds at the most. So cranking up the temperature close to 400C and getting the solder to flow quickly is easier on most parts - especially the I.C.s, transistors and diodes. I normally work at 375C (700F). That brings up another point for anyone using de-soldering braid. In that case 375C (700F) is not hot enough. The braid will pull too much heat away from the joint, meaning the joint has to "cook" for a long time to melt the solder. Like most of us, I prefer a solder sucker type of tool, but when I choose braid, I find no problem getting it to work with the iron at 425C (800F). "Cooking" a joint with a cooler iron will more likely debond the trace from the board! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
Ron's points should be well taken by everyone. It takes 2 things together to cook components and PC board traces - temperature and time, and actually the time factor is more critical than the temperature. If solder does not flow in 2 to 3 seconds, turn up the heat or use an iron with a larger tip (more heat mass). Modern components usually are speced to withstand soldering temperatures for 5 to10 seconds, so you are more likely to cause damage from the time element than with a high temperature. Keep those soldering irons between 700F (375C) and 800F (426C). PS - when the surface to be soldered is large (as on the KPA100 output transistors and transformers), use a large iron tip, a small tip will have the heat 'sucked out of it' by the large metal area on the PC board, and you will have to dwell on the joint a long time waiting for the iron (and PC board copper) to come up to temperature. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - You do not want to hold an iron on the joint too long, even at 300C. It should be hot enough for the solder to flow within 2 or 3 seconds at the most. So cranking up the temperature close to 400C and getting the solder to flow quickly is easier on most parts - especially the I.C.s, transistors and diodes. I normally work at 375C (700F). That brings up another point for anyone using de-soldering braid. In that case 375C (700F) is not hot enough. The braid will pull too much heat away from the joint, meaning the joint has to "cook" for a long time to melt the solder. Like most of us, I prefer a solder sucker type of tool, but when I choose braid, I find no problem getting it to work with the iron at 425C (800F). "Cooking" a joint with a cooler iron will more likely debond the trace from the board! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DSP key click solved in KPA100
I think most of you know this, but I couldn't track it down in the archives, so I thought I'd post it now. When I finished installing the DSP board on #4687, I noticed a slight pop/click/annoying noise upon key up. Gary, AB7MY, saved me a lot of time and trouble by suggesting I change C71 on the KPA100 to a .1uF. As throughout this entire project, Elecraft was always a couple of steps ahead of me and they just happened to have included a spare "104" capacitor. I popped it in and everything is perfect. I really can't believe my luck, but now I'm ready to tackle the 160M contest tonight and give the K2/100 a good workout. One other note. After first assembly of the KPA100 and playing around into a dummy load at 100W for a couple of hours, I noticed what others have pointed out; the mounting screws for the finals needed to be tightened again. I tightened each screw about a quarter turn. It may be my imagination, but the rig seemed to run cooler after tightening those screws, so I'll probably tighten them up a couple more times as the rig gets thermally broken in. I'm getting a new muffin fan to put on top of the rig anyway because I'm going to be banging away pretty hard on the CQ button. Oh yes, and I have to express my excitement about the computer interface. The contest software I've used for years, TRlog, has always had the ability to tune the VFO of a Kenwood via the shift keys; left shift goes down in freq and right shift key goes up. FINALLY, with the K2, I can use that feature. The computer interface worked flawlessly and is rock solid. My old IC-765 never could use the shift keys and the interface needed serious tweaking to work properly. TNX, Bob K5WA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Which Mods are applicable?
Jim, I have just finished K2 #4687 with KPA100, DSP, 160M, SSB and NB. My kit came with all required mods already in the parts package. All I needed to do was to update the construction manual with written notes found on the included Errata sheets. Elecraft included one Mod bag of parts for either the DSP or KPA100 (I don't remember which one) which I THOUGHT needed to be installed, but after realizing I was replacing a capacitor with the exact same capacitor (I'm slow sometimes), I realized the corrected parts were already incorporated into the regular parts inventory. The only part I had to replace which can be called a mod, was C71 in the KPA100. As luck (or incredible planning on Elecraft's part) would have it, the .1uF capacitor needed for C71 was a spare left over from one of the other accessories. My point is: I wouldn't worry about those "optional" mods until you get the rig together. Elecraft has done a great job of getting an up-to-date kit in your hands so that you don't have to worry. Have fun! Bob K5WA * http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 rx ant question
Vic Make up the little 2 transistor keying switch that Elecraft posts on their site. It works great. Use it to key a shorting relay on the input to R2. It will be activated before rf leaves the K2, and released after rf ceases. That should be all the protection you need. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG -- Original message -- > Hi, > > I am going to operate a little in the CQ WW 160 meter contest this weekend. > My > problem has always been too much noise on receive...I'm an alligator. I want > to > try using my 20-meter quad as a receiving-only antenna. > > The question is: the quad is right next to my inverted-L transmitting > antenna. > If the quad is connected to the K2 rant input, is there any danger of > damaging the K2 when transmitting at the 1.5 KW level? 100 watts? > > -- > 73, > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 rx ant question
Or put a couple 1n34a's across the rx antenna. one pointing up and one pointing down. 73hankk8dd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Vic Make up the little 2 transistor keying switch that Elecraft posts on their site. It works great. Use it to key a shorting relay on the input to R2. It will be activated before rf leaves the K2, and released after rf ceases. That should be all the protection you need. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG -- Original message -- Hi, I am going to operate a little in the CQ WW 160 meter contest this weekend. My problem has always been too much noise on receive...I'm an alligator. I want to try using my 20-meter quad as a receiving-only antenna. The question is: the quad is right next to my inverted-L transmitting antenna. If the quad is connected to the K2 rant input, is there any danger of damaging the K2 when transmitting at the 1.5 KW level? 100 watts? -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco -- 'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.' -anon ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Testing
Just seeing if I hit the reflector. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Testing
Hit it? The jolt knocked my K2 out of alignment. Damn! Honey, my K2 is out of alignment, I need to buy another K2 (very, very big wicked grin). Mark Saunders, KJ7BS BSD High Power Rocketry Glendale, AZ http://www.bsdrocketry.com From: "Stephen W. Kercel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 2005/01/28 Fri PM 06:56:46 EST To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Testing Just seeing if I hit the reflector. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB?
No wonder! I thought it was my iron, or solder. I had similar results but everything soldered ok eventually. I was running my iron at 725 degrees F. I missed that part in the manual. That's what I get for being in a hurry to get started. I'll go back and find that in the manual. Makes sense that it would be thicker though, since the KPA100 board has to deal with a lot more heat than the K2 RF board. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of W3FPR - Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 8:41 AM To: Gerhard Schwanz; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bad KPA100 PCB? Gerhard, I have found the KPA100 is more difficult to solder than other Elecraft kits, but I believe it is bacause that PC board uses thicker copper than the other kits and is especially noticable when soldering to a grounded pad. I increase the temperature on my soldering station to 750 to 800 degrees F. (400 to 430 degrees C.) and have no problem. The KPA100 manual states that a low wattage 800 degree F. soldering iron is required. Try increasing the temperature of your iron. Judging by your photo, I can definitely state that your iron is not hot enough, and the pads that give you the most trouble are the ground points. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - I am just in the process of building my KPA100. And I discover more and more solder points on the PCB where the solder is not accepted. Scraping the pads a bit helps a bit but I don't think this is a solution. Some details. I don't know where in the process it started but right now I'm on page 15 soldering the capacitors. And it's nearly every third hole that doesn't work. The solder sticks to the leads or the iron. I use the same iron and solder as with the other 10 PCBs of elecraft that I have built. I contacted elecraft about this issue but I wanted to ask if others have this problem too? What can I do? 73 Gerhard Schwanz DH3FAW mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.gs-personal.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: Which Mods are applicable?
Hhmmm. This is the second time today that I have seen the C71 reference on the KPA100 board. I am in the process of building my KPA100. Do I need to replace this cap now before I go any further? I don't have a DSP unit, but will be adding it later. I would rather do the mod now than have to take it apart and do it later. What do ya'll think? Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Evans Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 12:33 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Which Mods are applicable? Jim, I have just finished K2 #4687 with KPA100, DSP, 160M, SSB and NB. My kit came with all required mods already in the parts package. All I needed to do was to update the construction manual with written notes found on the included Errata sheets. Elecraft included one Mod bag of parts for either the DSP or KPA100 (I don't remember which one) which I THOUGHT needed to be installed, but after realizing I was replacing a capacitor with the exact same capacitor (I'm slow sometimes), I realized the corrected parts were already incorporated into the regular parts inventory. The only part I had to replace which can be called a mod, was C71 in the KPA100. As luck (or incredible planning on Elecraft's part) would have it, the .1uF capacitor needed for C71 was a spare left over from one of the other accessories. My point is: I wouldn't worry about those "optional" mods until you get the rig together. Elecraft has done a great job of getting an up-to-date kit in your hands so that you don't have to worry. Have fun! Bob K5WA * http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems
Martin: I have a few thoughts on your EMI problem. First, keep in mind that an antenna produces three different kinds of fields, the induction field, the near field and the far field. The induction field vanishes within inches of the antenna. The near field, the cause of many emi problems, has non-trivial strength out to about 1/6 of a wavelength. The far field is the one that "gets out," and behaves like a nice predictable travelling wave. The near field turns out to be extremely sensitive to boundary conditions, and simple acts like opening or closing a door can change the boundary enough to change the pattern of the near field. This is one reason for the seemingly "magical" properties of emi. My reason for making this disclaimer is to make you appreciate the fact that any of the very sound advice you get on the reflector may or may not help you to overcome your particular emi problem. I would encourage you not to give it up; your problem (or set of seemingly unrelated problems) can be solved. Second, you have not mentioned what bands give you the emi problem. You should check for all the symptoms on all the bands. There is a good possibility that part of your house wiring is perversely resonant in one of the ham bands, and is acting like an antenna that captures and reradiates your near field. Of course, if the resonance occurs on 80 meters, you might also be resonant on all the harmonically related ham bands. Anyway, it is worth checking which bands cause which bad effects. Third, having no RF ground is a big nono. The problem is that the RF that is on the chassis of your rig has to go somewhere. If you do not provide it a low impedance path to ground (where RF is converted to heat) it will find its own path, and the one that it finds will not make you happy. The power system ground has very high inductive reactance (A straight wire has an inductance of 10 nanohenries per inch. A 10 foot length of wire has an inductive reactance of 26 ohms at 3.5 MHz in the absence of mitigating capacitive effects. ) In other words, from your rig to the power system ground rod the overall impedance is probably on the order of hundreds of ohms, and virtually none of your RF energy is finding its way to the ground rod. If you're lucky (in your case you're not) the energy will be turned into heat in the losses of the wiring. Otherwise, it gets coupled into your other equipment. Since you are physically at ground level, I would strongly recommend that you install an 8 foot copperweld ground rod as close as possible to the rig, and feed through the shortest possible number 6 solid wire. (Solid has lower inductance than stranded or braid.) This is not an expensive solution, but it may solve your problem. Going from the shield of your cable direct to the ground rod may solve your problem and it may not. The emi problem may not be caused by radiation emanating from the outside of your shield. To avoid the creation of ground loops, and new emi problems, it is considered best practice to use a single point RF ground. Connect the rf grounds of your auxiliary equipment to your antenna tuner ground if you have one or to your transmitter ground otherwise. Make sure the ground connections are done in a star configuration (no loops in the ground wire), with short direct connections of solid wire (braid has higher inductance; avoid it) with your rig or tuner ground being the center of the star. To that single point at the center of the star connect the lead to the RF ground. This is a compromise configuration that tries to balance many conflicting tradeoffs, but it is the one that typically results in the fewest emi problems. The 8 foot copperweld ground rod is not really that good an electrode at HF, but it is better than nothing and vastly better than what you have now. In fact, there is no good ground electrode at HF. All of them have non-trivial inductive reactance. The least electrically bad ground electrode is a long solid copper wire (I prefer number 6; it has good physical strength and is not too hard to handle) at least a half wavelength at your lowest frequency and buried just deep enough that your lawn mower does not hit it, but preferably less than an inch deep. Every 8 feet or so along the wire you should connect the wire to a 12 inch ground rod. The wire does not need to be in a straight line. It can meander all over the yard, turning corners as necessary, but no corner should be tighter than 90 degrees. Obviously this is not practical to install during the winter. Nevertheless, when you can install such a ground, it is worth the trouble doing. BTW, a cheap trick that often works in place of an RF ground is to use an MFJ (or equivalent) artificial ground to a length of wire running along the floor as an RF counterpoise. The idea is that the reactive elements in the box tune out the reactance in the counterpoise and create the effect of a low im
[Elecraft] WTB-K2
Looking for a K2 . Please reply direct. Carry on Bill_Harris ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] For Trade Only: IC-746Pro
I have an as new IC-746 Pro, it is 2 weeks old, comes with everything when it came from the factory and the matching PS-125 power supply. I would like to work out a trade on a K2/100 in like condition both physically and electrically. the more options the better The IC-746 Pro works perfectly, no problems, I just want to try another K2/100. If you have one you'd like to work a trade on, please email off list to [EMAIL PROTECTED] with the details of your radio. I do not want to sell the 746 outright. Thanks Tim NZ8J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Testing
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: Just seeing if I hit the reflector. It hit back Thom www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW Indicator
Hi Tom, Im hoping that you are still awake . Ive just completed building the CW tuning indicator. All has gone reasonably well and I am now at the alignment stage. The problem Im having here is exactly the reason why I need the tuning indicator ie difficultly recognising when the two tones are beating together but I need to be able to do this to align the indicator! I have the feeling that I should be able to use Spectrogram to align the indicator. I imagine that what I would do is turn SPOT on and tune the 4.000 MHz birdy until SPOT and the birdy where on top of each other. Once this occurs I can then adjust the tuning indicator trimpot until the 10th LED comes on brightly and then finess this by setting the trimpot to the middle of the trimpot range where the 10th LED is lit. Does this make sense to you. If not, how do I adjust the proposed procedure? Mike VK1KCK K2 #2599 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
