Re: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited

2005-03-27 Thread rckchp
 The K2USA rhombic still exists. My local ham club, Garden State Amateur Radio 
Assoc. has it's monthly meetings at the MARS station at Ft. Monmouth, and we 
ocassionally operate the station. I've hooked my K2 to the rhombic and it 
really turns the mojo loose. Lately the rhombic is "down" due to some broken 
wires but in the near future GSARA plans to effect repairs to it and some other 
K2USA antennas as well. We hope to have K2USA up and running for field day as a 
class F (EOC) station.

Elsewhere on the Ft. Monmouth base, GSARA is planning to set up a battery 
powered QRP station using the club call W2GSA, and my K2 is "drafted" for the 
effort.

Rich  K2CPE
K2 #1102

-- Original message -- 

> 
> In a message dated 27/03/05 18:21:39 GMT Daylight Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> 
> But the most impressive and very well known antenna at K2USA was a rhombic, 
> one of the few amateur band rhombics in existence. 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for March 27-28th, 2005

2005-03-27 Thread Kevin Rock

Good evening and Happy Easter.

20 meters was noisy this evening.  40 meters was much easier to work!  
Curious ;) (as Mr. Spock used to say)  Surprisingly we had a few new folks 
on 20 meters.  That may have been because we broke in a new NCS :)  Mr. 
Craigie, with a very big signal, called the net for a while to earn his 
NCS wings.  I know he has run VHF traffic nets but they are not nearly as 
formal as the Elecraft CW Net ;)  Way to go Carter!


Thanks also go out to Mr. Hammond.  Tom has been a fixture on ECN since 
July 27th, 2003.  81 check ins and still going strong.  He has been very 
supportive as NCS while offering suggestions to make the net run a bit 
more smoothly.  Take care Tom!


On 14050 kHz at 2355z:
N3AO - Carter - PA - K2 - 678 Good to hear you have time to play again 
:)

K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608  QNI #25 with that little rig!
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - oo8QNI #80!!!   Wow, Tom thanks!
KA4MKF - Ned - VA - not an Elecrafter yet.
VE1RGB - Gary - NS - K2 - 2519
N5LF - Alan - VA - K1 - ??
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398
W0QQS - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646
W6QND - broken call.  QRZ??

On 7045 kHz at 0300z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - oo8
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K2 - 755
VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
N7NLU - Karl - OR - K2 - 4227 Who thinks he needs a KX1 to round out 
the set :)

AK2B - Tom - NY - K2 - 4482
N5LF - Alan - VA - K1 - ??
KO0K - Ben - OH - K2 - 3867 ??I heard you not at all.  Were you 
running the K1 instead?

K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152
W2LJ - Larry - NJ - K2? - ??
N2FQ/6 - Fernando - CA - K2 - 2330
WD7Y - Ed - NV - K2 - 865
ND0V - Greg - CO - K2 - 4411
W0NTA - Dick - CO - K2 - 3900 (old faithful :)

Thank you for joining us this evening.  I know many of you were jumping on 
for a few minutes to say Hi and then going back to your families.  Thank 
you for taking the time.  I appreciate it.  Welcome or welcome back to 
each of you.


If there are any corrections to be made or fills to be added please do not 
hesitate to send them to me.  I'll post the errata and update my 
database.

   Until later 73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power limitation

2005-03-27 Thread a.yoshida
Don

Thanks for your help.

Will re-install T4 and see how K2 works.

73 de aki, ja1nlx


- Original Message - 
From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "a.yoshida" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 1:13 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 power limitation


> Aki,
>
> If you still have T4 reversed, yes, it would account for the problem.
> If you now have T4 correct and still have low power, look carefully at the
> Low Pass filters.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
> > Finished building K2 but found a problem.
> >
> > TX power is always under 5W on ALL bands.
> >
> > I found my wrong install of T4 (1-2 and 3-4 are
> >
> > reversed !)
> >
> > Does this make the problem ???
> >
> > 73 de aki, ja1nlx
> >
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 power limitation

2005-03-27 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Aki,

If you still have T4 reversed, yes, it would account for the problem.
If you now have T4 correct and still have low power, look carefully at the
Low Pass filters.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> Finished building K2 but found a problem.
>
> TX power is always under 5W on ALL bands.
>
> I found my wrong install of T4 (1-2 and 3-4 are
>
> reversed !)
>
> Does this make the problem ???
>
> 73 de aki, ja1nlx
>


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RE: [Elecraft] K2: AGC Voltage OK?

2005-03-27 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Michael,

You probably read that statement coming from me since I have posted it
frequently.

Even on a 'quiet' 10 meter band there is the liklyhood that there is still
some atmospheric noise.  Try doing it with the antenna disconnected (so all
the noise is actual receiver internal noise).  I believe you will find the
proper setting a bit higher than you have right now.

Yes, I have found some variability from K2 to K2 (which I attribute to
internal gain variability), and also variability depending on the bandwidth.
I normally use a CW filter set for a bandwidth of 0.70 for this adjustment
and it works well for me - and usually produces a AGC Threshold pot setting
of close to 3.7 volts (+/- 0.05 volts).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
>   I've read that the correct AGC voltage for _most_ K2s falls into the
> 3.65v to 3.8v range. When I adjust my AGC voltage such that I hear no
> difference with AGC off and AGC on on a quiet 10m band, I find that my
> AGC voltage is down around 3.5v. Other than this, my radio appears to
> work fine. My control board's 8v regulator is putting out 7.92v. Does
> this AGC voltage seem like a problem or can I rack this up to
> variability?
>
>   Thanks, Michael N9BDF
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power limitation

2005-03-27 Thread vze3v8dt
If T4 1-2 and 3-4 were symmetrical I would think it would be okay.
However, they are not symmetrical as 1-2 has 2 turns and 3-4 has 3
turns. Sounds like you should unsolder it and try installing it the
other way. It may be easiest to cut the bare wires (5-6 and 7-8) before
unsoldering the green and white wires. You likely have enough wire
leftover to make 5-6 and 7-8 again, but not 1-2 and 3-4 (I think I had
enough to make 1-2 again if neccessary but definately not 3-4). Correct
installation of T4 should improve your output power.

If you wound T4 as a 2:2 ratio for better efficiency at 5W then it would
likely be okay (note on the schematic for T4), but since you are
complaining about not enough output power you should unsolder and
install correctly, then play with alternatives later after you are
satisfied with performance.

Mark, NK8Q
K2 4786

a.yoshida wrote:

>Hi
>
>Finished building K2 but found a problem.
>
>TX power is always under 5W on ALL bands.
>
>I found my wrong install of T4 (1-2 and 3-4 are 
>
>reversed !)
>
>Does this make the problem ??? 
>
>73 de aki, ja1nlx
>
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>
>  
>

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[Elecraft] K2 power limitation

2005-03-27 Thread a.yoshida
Hi

Finished building K2 but found a problem.

TX power is always under 5W on ALL bands.

I found my wrong install of T4 (1-2 and 3-4 are 

reversed !)

Does this make the problem ??? 

73 de aki, ja1nlx

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[Elecraft] K2: AGC Voltage OK?

2005-03-27 Thread Michael J. Linden
  I've read that the correct AGC voltage for _most_ K2s falls into the
3.65v to 3.8v range. When I adjust my AGC voltage such that I hear no
difference with AGC off and AGC on on a quiet 10m band, I find that my
AGC voltage is down around 3.5v. Other than this, my radio appears to
work fine. My control board's 8v regulator is putting out 7.92v. Does
this AGC voltage seem like a problem or can I rack this up to
variability?
 
  Thanks, Michael N9BDF
 
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RE: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited

2005-03-27 Thread EricJ
Very nice. Thanks for the URL, Bob.
 
I haven't been back to K2USA since 1985. I understand that since then the
rhombic has been let go to seed. The poles are overgrown with vines and I
believe some of the wires are broken. What a shame. It was a highlight of my
ham life to use that thing. I didn't need to use the 30L1 with it, but, I'm
sorry, when you got it you flaunt it. hi.
 
Eric
KE6US

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 4:17 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited


In a message dated 27/03/05 18:21:39 GMT Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

But the most impressive and very well known antenna at K2USA was a rhombic,
one of the few amateur band rhombics in existence. 

-
 
1981 to 1985 I lived in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia and was a member of the HZ1AB
club. We had a 20m rhombic pointed right back at K2USA that was shared with
the US military. The performance of this was phenomenal, far better than the
KLM KT34 that was up on the tower. I used to switch of the linear amp when
operating with the rhombic and use the Collins KWM2 or the TS-430 we had at
the time barefoot, otherwise we attracted far too many callers making copy
difficult. I was moved across the country in 1985 to a new job on the Red
Sea coast at Yanbu, over 1000km away and lost touch with the club. Last I
heard in September 2004 was that the HZ1AB licence has now been reassigned
to a Saudi national and the club station closed down. There are pictures of
the HZ1AB rhombic on the HZ1AB website when the station was moved from the
old Dhahran airport into Dhahran airbase:
 
 www.qsl.net/hz1ab/
 
The old rhombic was on 40 ft wooden power poles across the car park in front
of the old Dhahran airport domestic terminal entrance. Looks something like
110ft wooden poles were used at the new location in the airbase.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] The Linus Special

2005-03-27 Thread DYARNES
 
In a message dated 3/27/2005 1:53:27 PM US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  prototype T1 has v 1.07. I think that was the last revision  before
shipments begun. What in the operating manual makes you suspect  something
different?


Only that the owner's manual refers to V 1.06 when discussing the Info  
Report on page 7.  I assumed that perhaps they would use the latest  firmware 
version in the instructions, but that may be a stretch!  Anyway,  no big 
deal--just 
speculation on my part.
 
Very nice job on the manual Ron.  It certainly contained lots of very  
appropriate warnings where errors could commonly occur.  It was also  obvious 
that 
someone very carefully documented potential problems in the  building process, 
like not soldering certain leads before an adjoining lead was  also ready to 
be soldered.  I particularly liked the thrice stated "get the  right LED lead 
in the right hole" warning!  You must have had me in mind  when you  did that!  
Anyway, it's a very thorough and well thought out  construction guide indeed. 
 Thanks for making it a heck of a lot easier for  us klutzes!
 
Dave W7AQK
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited

2005-03-27 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 27/03/05 18:21:39 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

But the  most impressive and very well known antenna at K2USA was a rhombic,
one of  the few amateur band rhombics in existence. 


-
 
1981 to 1985 I lived in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia and was a member of the HZ1AB  
club. We had a 20m rhombic pointed right back at K2USA that was shared with 
the  US military. The performance of this was phenomenal, far better than the  
KLM KT34 that was up on the tower. I used to switch of the linear amp when  
operating with the rhombic and use the Collins KWM2 or the TS-430 we had at  
the 
time barefoot, otherwise we attracted far too many callers making copy  
difficult. I was moved across the country in 1985 to a new job on the Red Sea  
coast 
at Yanbu, over 1000km away and lost touch with the club. Last I  heard in 
September 2004 was that the HZ1AB licence has now been  reassigned to a Saudi 
national and the club station closed down. There are  pictures of the HZ1AB 
rhombic on the HZ1AB website when the station was moved  from the old Dhahran 
airport into Dhahran airbase:
 
 www.qsl.net/hz1ab/
 
The old rhombic was on 40 ft wooden power poles across the car park in  front 
of the old Dhahran airport domestic terminal entrance. Looks  something like 
110ft wooden poles were used at the new location in the  airbase.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Pulpit Rock Polar Bears

2005-03-27 Thread vze3v8dt

Thanks, Steve.

You were one of my very few contacts using the K2.  I was considering 
using the FT-100 mobile rig which is permanently mounted as well, but 
the only thing I did with it was use it to tune the ATAS120 antenna I 
was using.  Speaking of which , I think that was the reason for such few 
contacts.  I know I was scheduled to be on 40m phone, but the QRM from 
SW Broadcast was so terrible.  I heard Carter, N3AO briefly when he was 
told where I was trying to operate, but he couldn't hear me, even when I 
turned it up to 50W (the most I like to run with the engine turned 
off).  It was fun trying to use the K2 with the mobile antenna, but next 
time I'll definitely have a more efficient portable antenna for 40/20m 
(at least).  Planning to put a KAT2 in the K2 as well, so maybe we can 
do even more! 

The only other stations I worked were K3WW (groundwave to Perkasie, PA) 
and copied the info from WA5TCZ before QSB dropped the signal from S6 to 
S0 just as he turned it over to me and then he couldn't hear me (he was 
complaining that I was light copy anyway).  I also did work Dave in 
Nazereth, PA, N3LWY, on 2m FM on his repeater thanks to Matt, KB3JJV who 
was there with his HT.  Dave also spent lots of time with Matt and 
introducing him to Echolink, so I think Matt had a good time up there.  
Thanks alot, Dave!  I also worked Dave, KX3DX on 75m phone on groundwave 
at the station of K3YTR, Ed, who was lounging in his half-dome tent with 
a heater keeping him comfortable. 

In any case, even though I had fewer QSOs this month with the Polar Bear 
event, I did have a great time.  The WX was better than they forecast & 
it was nice meeting some new hams who came up for the event as well. 

I just got home after spending the weekend at my XYL's mother's house 
(not for Easter, but to fix it up so she can live there and get her out 
of our house, but we love her so).  I found the new L12 & replacement 
pot for the K2 and I'll be starting the Noise Blanker soon (after I 
replace the other parts).  Probably will have the SSB module installed 
by the end of this week as well.


72/73,

Mark, NK8Q
Polar Bear #4

Stephen Brandt wrote:


To Whom This May Concern,

   I just worked Mark, NK8Q, on Pulpit Rock on 14.061 at 2115Z.  He is about 
559 here in Portland, Oregon.   I am runing a Yaesu FT 1000MP throttled back to 
5W output. Good luck, Good hunting.

   73,

   Steve N7VS
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Re: [Elecraft] lead forming tool

2005-03-27 Thread Alexandra Carter
Those lead-forming tools are available all over the place, Radio Shack 
used to have them and may still at radioshack.com, and they're even 
available in different sizes for different sizes of components, that 
tool's an old standard in the 'tronics industry. 73 de ns6y


On Mar 27, 2005, at 9:30 AM, Robert Conley wrote:


I just checked my Jameco Catalog.
There it was on page #211. a 1/4 &
1/2 watt Lead Forming Tool  Jameco
part # 106884cc on sale $2.79. Also
found the Steel Step Drill bits page
#207  part #229657cc & 172401cc
72/71 de "rc" kc5wa

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Re: [Elecraft] The Linus Special

2005-03-27 Thread Margaret Leber

Dave, W7AQK, wrote:

Notwithstanding my dog Linus's efforts to the contrary (trying to eat my  
parts), the T1 is up and running.  Still running tests though, but it tunes
fine. 


That's good...the "dog ate my tuner" excuse is way overused. :-)

 73 de Maggie K3XS

--
-/___.   _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress /
/(, /|  /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/
---/   / | / |  _   _   _`  _  AOPA 925383/ amid change and to  /
--/ ) /  |/  |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_  K3XS / preserve change amid/
-/ (_/   '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/
/(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 & KAT1

2005-03-27 Thread Sandy
No to "slight" Elecraft!  There IS a very nice amplifier kit available that 
works
great with the K1!
Will do 35-40 watts out for 2-2.5 watts of drive.  Uses a pair of power FETs.  
Has
filters
for all bands from 160-10 meters.
Checkout "HFPacker" search on Google and you will get the link to the website.
Nothing is drilled or tapped in the heatsink or chassis!  It is truly a "kit" of
aprts.  PC boards very nice!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1-4 & KAT1


| Hello, Fellow Elecrafters:
|
| I've completed and installed a KAT1 ATU in my K1-4, s/n 1453.  I'm surprised
| and pleased that in addition to effectively tuning the antenna & coax for
| lowest SWR, the ATU acts as a "preselector" and improves the gain of the 
receiver
| slightly.  All 4 band seem just a bit "brighter" after tuning with the KAT1.
|
| I've read a discussion recently about moving a jumper on P3 on the RF board
| to activate the KAT1.  My instructions don't mention this.  I'm wondering if
| I'm missing something.  My RF board is Rev. E, and my KAT1 manual is Rev. C
| (Jan. 18, 2001).  I did leave one end of resistor R3 unsoldered, as 
instructed in
| the KAT1 manual.
|
| I observed a few minor "discrepancies" in the KAT1 manual that are not
| covered in the errata.  For example, the manual says to install a 3-pin and a
10-pin
| female connector on the K1 filter board.  However, these parts were already
| installed when I built the K1.  Perhaps the extra connectors were supplied in
| case you had an additional (older?) filter board?  It would be helpful if the
| errata mentioned this.
|
| Now I'm looking forward to my next Elecraft project - "booties" for my K1.
| I'd like to see an Elecraft KPA-1, an external amplifier for the K1, for fixed
| station use.  It would have at least 10 dB gain, with an in/out switch and a
| row of leds to indicate peak power.  I know this will be heresy to some
| Elecrafters, but the extra oomph would help working DX pileups!  Are you 
listening
| Wayne?
|
| 73, Jim K5HO
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|
|

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2005-03-27 Thread mikekopacki
Kevin, I will be operating portable from DE for the ARCI Spring QSO Party.  I 
recently finished building my K2 and will be using it for the contest.

I am calling it my DEpedition.

I will probably post an operating schedule in the next week or so but will take 
special requests if asked :)

I will be going down on Friday, 4/8.  I should be set up by 6pm or thereabouts.

I will be signing as NJ2OM/3.

73 and hope to work you,
Mike


From: Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2005/03/26 Sat PM 11:15:06 EST
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

Good Evening,
My fingers are itching from lack of CW work.  I have been banging away 
at a calculator, a spreadsheet, writing simulation software, and realizing 
the results with components and solder.  The results worked.  Wow, from 
idea to reality is quite interesting.  My new radio, tuner, and bridge all 
in one box.  But I am still learning.
Now to get someone from Delaware or South Dakota to check in to the 
Elecraft Net.  I don't believe folks use amateur radios in Delaware.  
Prove me wrong tomorrow evening ;)
It sounds like 40 meters is open but there are a lot of voice ops 
working the band.  By tomorrow evening they should be done.  20 meters was 
working earlier as I was testing my new tuner and radio.  I think we may 
have good propagation for all those folks who are not actively feeding at 
net time.  But there are two nets so you can try one, or the other, or 
both if that is your wont.
Please join us :
Monday z (Sunday 4pm PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 7pm PST)  7045 kHz

Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for net details.  Thank you 
Dan.

Happy Easter,
Kevin.  KD5ONS



Next project: current balun for my OCF dipole.


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RE: [Elecraft] The Linus Special

2005-03-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Dave, W7AQK, wrote:

Notwithstanding my dog Linus's efforts to the contrary (trying to eat my  
parts), the T1 is up and running.  Still running tests though, but it tunes

fine.  My firmware is v 1.07--looks like there has been an update since the

manual was prepared.  The only construction question I have is why we are  
instructed to wait until the board is full of parts before we do the parts
on  the 
bottom side of the board.  Seems like it would have been easier to  mount
these 
first, still solder them from the bottom side, but then clip the  leads
flush 
on the top side.  But I'm sure there's a good reason for  doing it
otherwise. 


-

Congratulations, Dave! 

My prototype T1 has v 1.07. I think that was the last revision before
shipments begun. What in the operating manual makes you suspect something
different? Wayne wrote the owner's manual and I confess I haven't studied
every statement in it for accuracy. Maybe a 1.07 change got missed that
should be fixed.

Thanks for the input on the assembly manual. That was my responsibility.  

I, too, prefer to mount parts while I can easily flush-cut the leads on the
opposite side, but doing so in the T1 would likely cause interference with
installing the relays. Both bottom-mounted caps end up right against the
relay pins on the underside of the board after installation. We thought it
would be easier to install the relays and to make sure they were all
straight and properly seated against the board and all the pins were
soldered before other parts are added. 

Since the bottom-mounted parts are also soldered on the bottom side, it
didn't seem like it would be difficult to install them after the relays were
in place. Putting them in last avoided any chance of breaking the capacitor
leads by bending them back and forth to allow access to solder and inspect
the relay pins. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] The Linus Special

2005-03-27 Thread DYARNES
Hi All,
 
Notwithstanding my dog Linus's efforts to the contrary (trying to eat my  
parts), the T1 is up and running.  Still running tests though, but it tunes  
fine.  My firmware is v 1.07--looks like there has been an update since the  
manual was prepared.  The only construction question I have is why we are  
instructed to wait until the board is full of parts before we do the parts on  
the 
bottom side of the board.  Seems like it would have been easier to  mount these 
first, still solder them from the bottom side, but then clip the  leads flush 
on the top side.  But I'm sure there's a good reason for  doing it otherwise. 
 
 The T1 is going to be a very handy piece of gear.  Thanks to  Wayne and Eric 
for another winner.
 
Happy Easter to all who celebrate the day.
 
Dave W7AQK 
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RE: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?

2005-03-27 Thread EricJ
 That's fine for K2 builders, but it wasn't much help with a K1 since they
don't tune that high on 20 and 15 with the optional 80 kc band spread. I
stuck a 14.060 mc crystal I had left over from converting a Rock-Mite 20 to
15m and it worked fine, though I didn't measure the output to see how much
it deviated from the 50 uV 40m output. It's bound to be different.

I used a trick I first learned from Chuck, W5USJ, of using two Augat
machined socket pins taken from an IC socket. Pull out the crystal, solder
two of these pins in and plug in the crystal. Now you can stick anything you
have into it. I got the pins from a new CPU socket for some early Pentium
chip that I bought at a surplus store for 50 cents. With a firm grip on the
bottom of a pin with needlenose pliers, you can just push the pins out the
top very easily. It's going to be tougher if the socket is used...you might
have to crush the base with side cutters...so try to get a new one.

I just remove what I am going to use at the time. The socket base makes a
safe storage place for the tiny pins between projects. They are great any
place you want to experiment with part values and don't want to keep
solder-stressing the board which is what Chuck originally used them for.

Eric
KE6US



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tony Fegan VE3QF
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 10:00 AM
To: 'Joe Daring'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?

Hi Joe,

The XG1 has quite strong output on its harmonics, 14.080, 21.120 and
28.160MHz. Information is on page 3 of the manual. The second harmonic on
14.080 is approximately 7dB down on the fundamental.

73
Tony Fegan VE3QF

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Daring
Sent: March 27, 2005 2:17 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?


Hello' Elecraft community...

I have just received my XG1 Kit... 

I'm wondering if I have any chance to use a different XTAL to make it work
somewhere on 14.XXX MHz...

What should I do for this?

Any hint *VERY* appreciated!

Happy Easter everybody!!!

/3 de Joe, IW7ECJ



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[Elecraft] K1-4 & KAT1

2005-03-27 Thread We5f
Hello, Fellow Elecrafters:

I've completed and installed a KAT1 ATU in my K1-4, s/n 1453.  I'm surprised 
and pleased that in addition to effectively tuning the antenna & coax for 
lowest SWR, the ATU acts as a "preselector" and improves the gain of the 
receiver 
slightly.  All 4 band seem just a bit "brighter" after tuning with the KAT1.

I've read a discussion recently about moving a jumper on P3 on the RF board 
to activate the KAT1.  My instructions don't mention this.  I'm wondering if 
I'm missing something.  My RF board is Rev. E, and my KAT1 manual is Rev. C 
(Jan. 18, 2001).  I did leave one end of resistor R3 unsoldered, as instructed 
in 
the KAT1 manual.

I observed a few minor "discrepancies" in the KAT1 manual that are not 
covered in the errata.  For example, the manual says to install a 3-pin and a 
10-pin 
female connector on the K1 filter board.  However, these parts were already 
installed when I built the K1.  Perhaps the extra connectors were supplied in 
case you had an additional (older?) filter board?  It would be helpful if the 
errata mentioned this.

Now I'm looking forward to my next Elecraft project - "booties" for my K1.  
I'd like to see an Elecraft KPA-1, an external amplifier for the K1, for fixed 
station use.  It would have at least 10 dB gain, with an in/out switch and a 
row of leds to indicate peak power.  I know this will be heresy to some 
Elecrafters, but the extra oomph would help working DX pileups!  Are you 
listening 
Wayne?

73, Jim K5HO
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RE: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?

2005-03-27 Thread Tony Fegan VE3QF
Hi Joe,

The XG1 has quite strong output on its harmonics, 14.080, 21.120 and
28.160MHz. Information is on page 3 of the manual. The second harmonic on
14.080 is approximately 7dB down on the fundamental.

73
Tony Fegan VE3QF

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Daring
Sent: March 27, 2005 2:17 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?


Hello' Elecraft community...

I have just received my XG1 Kit... 

I'm wondering if I have any chance to use a different XTAL to make it work
somewhere on 14.XXX MHz...

What should I do for this?

Any hint *VERY* appreciated!

Happy Easter everybody!!!

/3 de Joe, IW7ECJ



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 RF board - components on bottom?

2005-03-27 Thread Stan Rife
Jim,
HMC Electronics carries these. I ordered two of them, one for 1/8
watt and one for 1/4 watt, a few weeks back. They are just as you described.
2 or 3 bucks apiece.

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 

-Original Message-
 On Behalf Of Jim Harris
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RF board - components on bottom?

This may be too late to help you much.  But, I'll give
it a spin.  This might be more useful to future
builders.

Many years ago in manufacturing we used a small
plastic device that was about eight inches long and
about a quarter inch high and tapered from one end at
about a quarter inch to about an inch on the other
end.  It had a cutout down the middle that the
components were placed into.  Along the raised plastic
parts on either side of the cutout were indentations
for the componet leads.  There were something like
25-30 different positions along the tool depending on
the spacing needed for the leads on the pc board. 
Narrow spacings obviously were at the narrow end and
wider at the opposite end.

After selecting the right spacing and placing the
component in the tool a thumb was placed over the
component and thumb and first finger of the other hand
was used to gentle bend the leads down to 90 degrees. 
If needed, then the leads could be further formed to
fit special situations usually without stressing the
lead to body bond.

We got the tool from places like Jameco, Digi-key etc.
 don't know if anyone carries them anymore.  While
building my K2 I wished numerous times I had one of
those little gizmo's.  Sure would have made life
simplier.

Enjoy your new toy and have a great day.

Jim, AB0UK





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[Elecraft] lead forming tool

2005-03-27 Thread Robert Conley

I just checked my Jameco Catalog.
There it was on page #211. a 1/4 &
1/2 watt Lead Forming Tool  Jameco
part # 106884cc on sale $2.79. Also
found the Steel Step Drill bits page
#207  part #229657cc & 172401cc
72/71 de "rc" kc5wa

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RE: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited

2005-03-27 Thread EricJ
My last year in the Army (1965-1965) was as one of three operators at K2USA
at Fort Monmouth, NJ. We had monobanders (Telex) on 90' poles for 20-2m and
6 professional studios full of Collins and Hallicrafters equipment to feed
them.

But the most impressive and very well known antenna at K2USA was a rhombic,
one of the few amateur band rhombics in existence. It was also on 90'
telephone poles. It terminated on Europe, but could be switched to radiate
the other direction. Some late nights I would tune around 20 when it was
dead. Sometimes I would hear two VK's working each other on ground wave and
thinking the band was closed. Not for that rhombic, an S-Line and a 30L1.

Tough duty, but a soldier goes where he's needed.

Eric
KE6US

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 4:56 AM
To: Robert Conley; [EMAIL PROTECTED] List
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited

RC,

Yes - double the length and try it, a 48-56 ft random wire with a 32 ft
radial should load fine on 80 and up.  If you find it out of the range of
the KAT1 or KXT1 tuner, just extend is a few feet at a time until you
discover a length that works for you.

Thia is a 'random wire' antenna, it is not an EFLWA which is a more specific
term for antennas that are 1 wavelength or more at the lowest frequency.
The radiation pattern from an End Fed Long Wire Antenna is quite specific
and has lobes at specific and predictable angles from the wire (making it a
directional antenna) - the exact angle depends on the number of half
wavelengths of the wire.  It is this directionality that is the desirable
quality of the EFLWA, quite apart from the means of feeding it.  A really
long long wire antenna can rival a beam in its favored direction, and I'm
certain you have heard rave reports about the performance of large rhombics
which are close cousins to the long wire antenna.  There is a whole chapter
in the ARRL Antenna book devoted to these Traveling Wave antennas - they
work great if you have the space.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robert Conley
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 11:47 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] List
> Subject: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited
>
>
> Please me revisit the EFLWA for a moment. In the KXAT1 manual page 9 
> shows a random length wire in a tree. For 40/30/20 a wire length of 
> 24-28' is recommended. Ground system use one radial cut to at least 
> 1/8 wave length on lowest band used (16' on 40m) page 10 shows a 
> Pomona model 1296 double binding post. Since I suffered an attack of 
> senility when I ordered my K1-2 (I ordered it with 80m and 40m) and a 
> KAT1. I wish to utilize a random length wire for it Should it be 
> double the KXAT1's recommendations
> (48-56') with a ground system  of 1/8 wavelength on the lowest band (32'
> on 80m)
> double that of 40/30/20m.
> tnx es 72/71
> de "rc"kc5wa
>
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[Elecraft] K2 RF board - components on bottom?

2005-03-27 Thread Jim Harris
This may be too late to help you much.  But, I'll give
it a spin.  This might be more useful to future
builders.

Many years ago in manufacturing we used a small
plastic device that was about eight inches long and
about a quarter inch high and tapered from one end at
about a quarter inch to about an inch on the other
end.  It had a cutout down the middle that the
components were placed into.  Along the raised plastic
parts on either side of the cutout were indentations
for the componet leads.  There were something like
25-30 different positions along the tool depending on
the spacing needed for the leads on the pc board. 
Narrow spacings obviously were at the narrow end and
wider at the opposite end.

After selecting the right spacing and placing the
component in the tool a thumb was placed over the
component and thumb and first finger of the other hand
was used to gentle bend the leads down to 90 degrees. 
If needed, then the leads could be further formed to
fit special situations usually without stressing the
lead to body bond.

We got the tool from places like Jameco, Digi-key etc.
 don't know if anyone carries them anymore.  While
building my K2 I wished numerous times I had one of
those little gizmo's.  Sure would have made life
simplier.

Enjoy your new toy and have a great day.

Jim, AB0UK



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Re: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?

2005-03-27 Thread John R. Lonigro

Joe:

I tried it with a 3.57 MHz crystal and it worked FB. I'm guessing it 
will work with most HF crystals in the 80-20M range.


John AA0VE

Joe Daring wrote:


Hello' Elecraft community...

I have just received my XG1 Kit... 


I'm wondering if I have any chance to use a different XTAL to make it work
somewhere on 14.XXX MHz...

What should I do for this?

Any hint *VERY* appreciated!
 


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[Elecraft] re: eflwa

2005-03-27 Thread Michael Babineau

Robert Conley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote :

> Since I suffered
> an attack of
> senility when I ordered my K1-2 (I ordered it with 80m and 40m) and a
> KAT1. I wish to
> utilize a random length wire for it Should it be double the KXAT1's
> recommendations
> (48-56') with a ground system  of 1/8 wavelength on the lowest band 
(32'

> on 80m)
> double that of 40/30/20m.

Rob, as someone else suggested the trick is to provide an impedance in 
the
range that the tuner can match and the best bet is to find a wire 
length that is not
near a multiple of a half wavelength on any of the bands that you wish 
to

operate, as half wave multiples will result in a very high impedance.

The good news is that someone has already done this. A UK ham named 
Alan Chester
G3CCB (sk) wrote an article titled "Taming the End-fed Wire" that has 
appeared in

a number of RSGB publications and is in a book being sold by ARRL called
"The Antenna File".

In this article Alan has mapped out wire lengths versus bands and 
provides a chart
which quickly allows one to figure out what bands are a "no go" with 
different wire
lengths. Alan recommends three wire lengths. 10 meters, 15 meters and 
26.5 meters.

Any of these lengths should theoretically be ok for 80M and 40M.

Please note that the 10m wire length doesn't work on 20M and 10M, the
15m wire length is a no go  on 17m, 15M and 30M and the 26.5 meter wire
probably won't match on 10M.

I would suggest trying the 15m wire, which works out to about 49 feet.

I have had good luck with my KX1 and the suggested 28 ft vertical wire
using 5 X 16ft ground radials made from a piece of computer ribbon 
cable.
on 40M, 30M and 20M. I leave the first 2 or 3 feet intact and split out 
the
individual conductors on the remaining length. This is pretty easy to 
deploy.

I would suggest that you stick with the 1/8 wave on the lowest operating
frequency and deploy as many radials as you find practical (up to about
2 dozen, as it is a case of diminishing returns for this length of 
radial beyond

that number).

Your mileage may vary as it is all dependent on the matching abilities 
of the

KAT1.

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. Let us know how you make out.

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RE: [Elecraft] XG1... other frequencies possible?

2005-03-27 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Happy Easter to everyone from here too.

Joe,

I would think you could just plug in another fundamental crystal and try it.
Do be aware that it may alter the output level from its normal 1 uV and 50
uV, so do test the levels before relying on any particular output - the
output should be consistent, just not necessarily at 1 or 50 microvolts.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> Hello' Elecraft community...
>
> I have just received my XG1 Kit...
>
> I'm wondering if I have any chance to use a different XTAL to make it work
> somewhere on 14.XXX MHz...
>
> What should I do for this?
>
> Any hint *VERY* appreciated!
>
> Happy Easter everybody!!!
>
> /3 de Joe, IW7ECJ
>
>


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RE: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited

2005-03-27 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
RC,

Yes - double the length and try it, a 48-56 ft random wire with a 32 ft
radial should load fine on 80 and up.  If you find it out of the range of
the KAT1 or KXT1 tuner, just extend is a few feet at a time until you
discover a length that works for you.

Thia is a 'random wire' antenna, it is not an EFLWA which is a more specific
term for antennas that are 1 wavelength or more at the lowest frequency.
The radiation pattern from an End Fed Long Wire Antenna is quite specific
and has lobes at specific and predictable angles from the wire (making it a
directional antenna) - the exact angle depends on the number of half
wavelengths of the wire.  It is this directionality that is the desirable
quality of the EFLWA, quite apart from the means of feeding it.  A really
long long wire antenna can rival a beam in its favored direction, and I'm
certain you have heard rave reports about the performance of large rhombics
which are close cousins to the long wire antenna.  There is a whole chapter
in the ARRL Antenna book devoted to these Traveling Wave antennas - they
work great if you have the space.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robert Conley
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 11:47 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] List
> Subject: [Elecraft] elfwa revisited
>
>
> Please me revisit the EFLWA for a moment. In the KXAT1 manual page 9
> shows a random
> length wire in a tree. For 40/30/20 a wire length of 24-28' is
> recommended. Ground
> system use one radial cut to at least 1/8 wave length on lowest band
> used (16' on 40m)
> page 10 shows a Pomona model 1296 double binding post. Since I suffered
> an attack of
> senility when I ordered my K1-2 (I ordered it with 80m and 40m) and a
> KAT1. I wish to
> utilize a random length wire for it Should it be double the KXAT1's
> recommendations
> (48-56') with a ground system  of 1/8 wavelength on the lowest band (32'
> on 80m)
> double that of 40/30/20m.
> tnx es 72/71
> de "rc"kc5wa
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Info 201 again

2005-03-27 Thread Tony Morgan

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:

Tony,

The Info 201 message tells me that the K2 'thought' that everything had to
be initialized.  The only thing I can think of is that AUXBUS communication
was/is misbehaving.
I would first drag out the schematic and look at everywhere the AUXBUS
signal travels starting from the microprocessor.

73,
Don W3FPR



-Original Message-

Hi Guys,
K2 #4049 w/KPA100 + KAT100. Working without any problems for
almost a year.
Was running MMTTY @ 25 wts today. After returning to receive K2 locked
up, no audio not able to do anything. Turned it off and back on and all
was normal except could not access menu. Turned it off again and left it
for a couple of hours, turned back on and am getting info 201 then
ELECRAFT then 7100 plus some hum from speaker.
Where to check first when I open it up?
Thanks guys.

Tony W7GO








Don,
I decided to disconnect the KPA100 and try it. The K2 initialized 
normally. Checked it all out and all seemed to be ok.

Hooked the KPA100 up and everything came back up ok.
Went ahead and did a complete re-alignment also.
All is well again with #4049.
Thanks alot Don for your reply.

73,
Tony W7GO
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