[Elecraft] Come on Guys spill the beans it is midnight in Ohio and therefore Saturday...come on...tell
On 5/20/05 10:04 PM, "Phil Townsend" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It show up at the Elecraft web site?? > > I just gotta know... > Phil > Santa Fe > K2 1264 plus the heater > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] When will The Guys anounce the "NEW" product in Dayton??? And when will
It show up at the Elecraft web site?? I just gotta know... Phil Santa Fe K2 1264 plus the heater ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 4875 working fine
I completed the construction of my K2 and KBS2. Everything is now working fine! TNX to those who gave me advices and to Gary Surrency! Yves Dussault-VE2ATD, ex YB8AEG, ex f0ddr Laval, Québec.___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Appliances vs. kits [was: RE: Can Elecraft take over...]
Hi Bill & all, Bill Coleman wrote: > > Today, things are different. Appliance operators rule, and the kit- > built rig is an exception. The more things change, the more they stay the same. I agree with the thrust of your statement, Bill, in the sense that people seem to be less concerned with the how & why, and more interested in appearance, compactness, features, etc. But then maybe things haven't changed much after all! Why? You might remember a note I posted last week asking for help finding a kit my 11 year old son could have fun building. A local friend responded by sending me a copy of an article about how to build a cake pan tube transmitter. It's from Electronics Illustrated, Sept. 1964, "The Scrounger" by Herb Friedman W2ZLF, and starts with this: "Real challenge used to be ham radio's keynote. No one in the early days ever thought of flipping through a catalog, ordering gear galore and then going on the air the same day the stuff arrived. Most everyone rolled his own in those days. Today, this kind of fun is pretty much gone with the wind." Now where have I heard that before? :-) 73, Mike AB3AP Avondale, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Can Elecraft take over the ham radio business ?
You posed two questions, but it isn't at all clear which one you answered with your last sentence. My guess is that if Elecraft were to go toe-to-toe, feature-by-feature against the Big Three, they would lose. They would spend all their resources slogging it out for infinitismal increases in market share against larger, better funded, better known companies. And for what? Better to make your OWN market...that's what niche marketing is all about. Elecraft has clearly identified their niched. The rigs they design aren't for everyone. Neither is a rotary engine car. Personally, I bought the K2 because the basic performance is outstanding, and it has the features I value. Would I buy a "K3" with all the features the Japanese rigs have? Definitely not. I bought the K2 to get out from under all that marketing-derived crap that I never use. And I bought it already built because I don't value building it myself. Eric KE6US -Original Message- Subject: [Elecraft] Can Elecraft take over the ham radio business ? Hi Guys, Let me re-phrase my original proposal / suggestion about a "K3" design with all the features mentioned in my original post: Lets assume that Elecraft had the K2 as we know it, and a "K3" more expensive kit with all the "useless" accessories (IF notch, PBT, general HF coverage, preselector, no birdies etc). Also assume that the "K3"s performance and specs were equally good to the basic K2 and its price not prohibitive. How many of us would choose the K2 as the main rig over the "K3" ?? Would the average ham out there resist the urge of owing such a (K3) rig that he/she built himself instead of a ready made box with inferior basic performance ? My estimation would be not too many, but I may be wrong. 73, Marinos, ki4gin ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question
I still don't know what to think. I came home from Hamvention today with the tiny T1 tuner for my K2, based more on convenience of installation and ability to use it with other rigs and portability. If I eventually want an auto tuner for higher power, I'll go through all this again, I guess. Meanwhile, I'll keep the Hallicrafters connected to the Palstar tuner. Hey, it was worth the price of the tuner, just to meet Don at the Elecraft booth! Parker -Original Message- From: Bill Coleman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 2:24 PM To: John, KI6WX Cc: Don; Parker Buckley; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question On May 13, 2005, at 12:40 AM, John, KI6WX wrote: > At high power, an inefficient tuner can generate significant > amounts of heat, which can destroy components. A 1kW transmitter > into a 70% efficient tuner will generate 300 watts of heat in the > tuner. This is why I tend to disbelieve tuner efficiency figures. From the QST tests, there seem to be a lot of tuners than have losses greater than 10% -- yet there is no evidence that any of these tuners heat up appreciably! At 1 kW, a 10% loss is 100 watts -- imagine how hot a tuner enclosure would get if you had a 100 watt light bulb inside it. Even at 100 watts, 10% loss is 10 watts. That's still enough to induce a few degree change in a small enclosure. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Can Elecraft take over the ham radio business ?
Hi Guys, Let me re-phrase my original proposal / suggestion about a "K3" design with all the features mentioned in my original post: Lets assume that Elecraft had the K2 as we know it, and a "K3" more expensive kit with all the "useless" accessories (IF notch, PBT, general HF coverage, preselector, no birdies etc). Also assume that the "K3"s performance and specs were equally good to the basic K2 and its price not prohibitive. How many of us would choose the K2 as the main rig over the "K3" ?? Would the average ham out there resist the urge of owing such a (K3) rig that he/she built himself instead of a ready made box with inferior basic performance ? My estimation would be not too many, but I may be wrong. 73, Marinos, ki4gin ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Anything News at Dayton from Elecraft??
On May 20, 2005, at 7:23 PM, Dave G. wrote: The subject says' it all ??? Hope, Wish, Blow out the candles... Yes, inquiring minds want to know! Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question
On May 13, 2005, at 9:32 AM, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: Comment on baluns: If you drive a ferrite core to saturation, it will overheat. True. Once the core overheats, the inductance changes and you lose your match (quite severely, in my experience). In order to change the inductance permanently, it must reach the Curie temperature. The inductance will change much at a much lower temperature than this, but the effects aren't lasting. It doesn't really take much to do it; a few minutes of normal CW operating with 100 watts into a 5:1 SWR on 20 meters will do the trick for me. You are much more likely to drive a balun core into saturation on the high SWR output of a tuner than on the low SWR input of the tuner. Note that a normal current-type balun feeding a non-pathological antenna (one that has made a reasonable attempt to be balanced) will show little or no flux on the core. The object of the current-type balun is to discourage current from flowing by creating a high- impedance path -- if there's high impedance there's little current and therefore less chance of heating. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question
On May 13, 2005, at 12:40 AM, John, KI6WX wrote: At high power, an inefficient tuner can generate significant amounts of heat, which can destroy components. A 1kW transmitter into a 70% efficient tuner will generate 300 watts of heat in the tuner. This is why I tend to disbelieve tuner efficiency figures. From the QST tests, there seem to be a lot of tuners than have losses greater than 10% -- yet there is no evidence that any of these tuners heat up appreciably! At 1 kW, a 10% loss is 100 watts -- imagine how hot a tuner enclosure would get if you had a 100 watt light bulb inside it. Even at 100 watts, 10% loss is 10 watts. That's still enough to induce a few degree change in a small enclosure. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] To mod or not to mod, thats the question
On Apr 29, 2005, at 7:37 AM, Erik Linder wrote: Are there many of you which have modified rigs? Or... Are the majority using standard K2 exactly built from elecraft's manual? I can't speak for the majority, but I've made a number of small modifications to my K2, including changes for VOX sensitivity, extended BFO range for running RTTY, +8 volts on the mic connector for running accessories, "1.9" kHz mod for the SSB filter. Most of the other modifications have been due to circuit changes endorsed by Elecraft. In fact, I'm holding on to some minor KPA100 mods because of the difficulty in removing the circuit board. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] custom Morse ringtones
Unknown callers = QRM - Original Message - From: "Jeff Rosenberger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lloyd Lachow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "List Elecraft" Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:43 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] custom Morse ringtones Lloyd Lachow wrote: My phone, a Treo 600, can use .midi files as ringtones, and I can link any tone to a specific caller. In theory, I could have every caller in my phonebook ID themselves in morse...but in practice, I only use it for unknown callers. I just recently purchased a Treo 650. I've made MIDI morse tones for common callers. What I'd really like is to have the phone automatically send the name and/or number of the incoming call in morse. Being a Software Engineer by trade, I plan to take a crack at this when I get some free time. If I can get it working on my 650, it probably wouldn't be hard to make it work on the 600 as well. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Anything News at Dayton from Elecraft??
The subject says' it all ??? Hope, Wish, Blow out the candles... Dave KK7SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tuner losses
Andy, I want to give you a follow-up. I built the KAT100 in less than three evenings and it is a wonder to me in both its design and operation. I built the BL1 in the 4:1 configuration. I get a 1.1:1 or less match on all bands except 15 Meters which is about 1.5:1. I find that the balun gets hot enough to fry eggs on 40 meters (even at 50 watts with SWR of 1.0:1), mildly hot on 30 meters, cool as a cucumber on 20 meters (even at 100 watts), and slightly warm on 17 meters. I guess that on 40 meters the balun is at a current node. The feedline is about 100 ft long on the 140 ft Cobra Ultralite 80 doublet antenna. I don't know that I want to get into trimming the feedline as I may affect 20 meters. I am able to make contacts on 40 meters although I would assume I am operating at reduced efficiency. The BL1 when very hot does not desaturate and make the SWR rise above 1.0:1. I want to stay with 300 or 450 ohm ladder line so I may put another antenna up for 40 meters. I manually disconnect the antennas outside the house when they are not in use. Our area has a lot of thunderstorms. I guess I can buy a heavier duty balun from DX Engineers; however, I notice that DX Engineers has a new multiband antenna for sale which is fed with ladderline along with one of their big baluns. I am going to look into it. I ordered another BL1 which I am going to build in the 1:1 configuration. I want to see what if any difference this might make before I decide whether or not to get a bigger balun and/or another antenna. Thanks for your help, Bill WA5KPE Hattiesburg, MS K2 #4454 Bill Strong's Coastal Images Bill Strong's Eclectic Mississippi Photo Tour http://www.phototour.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hex key
If anyone would like to see the cover for my hex key, take a look. http://www.cwkeysdustcovers.com/cover%20picture.htm Phil Philip LaMarche Instant Gourmet LaMarche Enterprises, Inc. www.instantgourmetspices.com 727-944-3226 727-937-8834 Fax 727-510-5038 Cell NASFT # 30210 W9DVM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging
Dear Ron, One thing to remember is that the internal voltmeter function of the K2 is specified as +/- 5%. When I read this spec as I was building my K2 I thought great that seems to be reasonably accurate. When I added the KBT2 option I ended up measuring the various voltages with an accurate (1% or better) meter. I then did the calculation, 5% of 13.8v is 0.64v, in otherwords the K2 could indicate anything between 13.16v and 14.44v!! This is without taking into account the voltage drop of the diode. My measuremets showed me that the voltage at the power jack was some 0.7v higher than the K2 displayed. Having adjusted the power supply I was using to give 13.8v on the K2 display, I quickly adjusted it back - I was actually feeding the K2 with 14.5v! 72's Tim M0CZP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
Hisashi Fujinaka wrote: Not quite an answer but the ARRL article on John Curtis said, "(according to John, Mode B was actually a design error by an unnamed company)." http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2002/02/04/2/?nc=1 -- Thank you Fujinaka-san! I enjoyed reading the article. I noticed one error for those tracking the famous (or infamous) mode B. The article said, "In 1981 Curtis found that many people liked the mode B keying characteristics of Ten-Tec, Heath, Nye, and Accu-keyers." I don't know about the others, but the Accu-Keyer was a mode "A" keyer, not a mode "B". I used a homebrew Accu-Keyer built straight from the QST article for 20 years. Since I reverted to a bug it's now sitting on the shelf, but still works as well as the day it built in the mid-1970's. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
On Fri, 20 May 2005, Mike Morrow wrote: I wrote: Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B, the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer design, caught on. Bill wrote: I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It has dot and dash memories -- the quality that gives it Mode B. It takes extra circuitry to do this -- it's not just a "logic design error". And Dan wrote: I had a Heathkit keyer on which I learned iambic, and it was all discrete logic gates and RC circuits. No ICs. It did exactly what the schematic said it would do. No error there. True, mode B did catch on (long before 1979) and circuits and chips were purposely designed to implement it. But the evil that spawned mode B occurred in an improperly designed keyer from the mid-1960s. Somewhere I've specific details...but not with me now. Not quite an answer but the ARRL article on John Curtis said, "(according to John, Mode B was actually a design error by an unnamed company)." http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2002/02/04/2/?nc=1 -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
And Straight Key for those of us who have never been impressed with either! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Morrow Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 12:01 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles? Thank goodness the Elecraft keyers allow either mode! 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
On Fri, 20 May 2005, Mike Morrow wrote: I think the bottom line is that you prefer whatever technique you've trained on. There's 100 percent agreement here! Learn one mode and the other will seem impossible. I haven't any moral objections to mode B, just to the firmware designers who design an embedded keyer in a rig to use only one mode and that mode is mode B! (Example...the nasty FT-817!!) For whatever reasons some such firmware designers seem more often to choose mode B, so I actually recommend that mode B be the mode learned if one is just learning iambic keying. I think it can all be traced to Entwistle the Lab Technician. Entwistle was a Sooner, bouncing from facility to facility. Along with other bad habits, such as womanizing, chewing tobacco, drinking and passing gas in public, he used mode B. Rather than be confronted with his unseemly life style, the designers would not only assign prototype building, but also product testing to Entwistle. Since he didn't know mode B, he could neither build or test it, and simply told the designers that their design was faulty, and suggested an alternative that he felt confident would pass alll tests(Mode B). Rumor has it that he was related to Daedalus & Icarus. While IBM will not confirm his employment in Persoanl Computer development efforts, the fact that the early PC could not process simple addition problems may be an Entwistle signature. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
I wrote: > Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B, > the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer > design, caught on. Bill wrote: >I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It >has dot and dash memories -- the quality that gives it Mode B. It >takes extra circuitry to do this -- it's not just a "logic design >error". And Dan wrote: >I had a Heathkit keyer on which I learned iambic, and it was all >discrete logic gates and RC circuits. No ICs. It did exactly what >the schematic said it would do. No error there. True, mode B did catch on (long before 1979) and circuits and chips were purposely designed to implement it. But the evil that spawned mode B occurred in an improperly designed keyer from the mid-1960s. Somewhere I've specific details...but not with me now. >I don't find Mode B timing impossible - in fact, it is more relaxed >than mode A -- you let go of the paddles a lot sooner. Which is the **only** "advantage" that can be claimed for mode B, though I see no value to this "advantage" and a "lot" sooner is not how I would quantify it. If mode B reduced the number of paddle manipulations required over mode A, it would have purpose. But exactly the same amount of paddle manipulation is required regardless of character sent. >I think the bottom line is that you prefer whatever technique >you've trained on. There's 100 percent agreement here! Learn one mode and the other will seem impossible. I haven't any moral objections to mode B, just to the firmware designers who design an embedded keyer in a rig to use only one mode and that mode is mode B! (Example...the nasty FT-817!!) For whatever reasons some such firmware designers seem more often to choose mode B, so I actually recommend that mode B be the mode learned if one is just learning iambic keying. Thank goodness the Elecraft keyers allow either mode! 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: OT Firebottle question
You have one or more bad connections. In the SB and HW series of Heath transceivers the bandswitches have contacts on both sides of the switch wafers. The two sides are wedged together and the "connection" becomes intermittent with time. This causes the lower level and driver stages to "drop out" of resonance. The coils in the circuits are additive, in other words the 10 meter coils are first, then the 15 meter coils are added in series, and then 20 meters etc. This can be cured by applying a soldering iron and solder to the wedged connection. You have to remove the shields and it is difficult to get to the wafers. A good deal of heat is needed to make the solder flow. There are probably more bad connections and bad solder joints. Some kit rigs where not properly assembled and may never have worked correctly. You have to go back through and make sure that all the parts are correct (like resistors in the wrong place etc.) and are still good. It takes time and careful work to restore these rigs. The situation where the voltage rises with key down (170 volts key up and 240 volts key down) means that the tube is being cut off. With no current flow the plate voltage rises. It takes a lot more skill and effort to troubleshoot and repair old equipment than it would to build a kit from scratch. Allen KA5N ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 As Only Rig in Shack
I too, have the K2 as my only rig in the home shack and I plan to keep it that way. Antenna system at home consists of a B & W BWD-90 broadband folded dipole for 80-40-30 and the rest of the WARC bands. 20-15-10 is a Cushcraft A3S on a 10' tripod mounted on the roof of my garage which puts it about 25 feet high. The 160 meter antenna is one of those accidents that worked. An inverted U. Goes up 25 feet, out 60 feet to a big pine tree in the front yard and back down 25 feet and the only counterpoise/ground in the system is an 8' ground rod right at the feedpoint. The KAT2 tuner matches it to 1.1:1 on all bands 160-10 with the exception of 17 meters. There is a bad length, either in the wire or coax that throws the impedance out of the KAT2's range. No biggie, the BWD-90 takes care of 17 anyway. Now before the nay-sayers out there say that BWD-90 is a "folded dummy load" due to the resistor located in it's configuration, I have 143 countries worked, 63 confirmed running only QRP with the K2. Many of these are on 80, 40 and 30 using the BWD-90. I have at least 50 Japanese stations worked on 40 with 5 watts and this antenna. Kinda funny for an antenna a lot of people say can't work. I have a nice padded aluminum case set up so that I can grab the K2, stuff it in there and head out for anywhere. In the case is a complete 80-10 meter PAC-12 antenna, 80' of RG-174 feedline, reeled up radials for the PAC-12, a set of key paddles and a hand key on the same base. This gives me a pretty much "grab and go" system for emergency or just plain fun portable operations. The case cost me 20 bucks from Harbor Freight when they had it on sale. Everything fits nicely with a little room left over for power cords, microphone, and extra coax adapters to match whatever antennas might be available at the portable site. I have a small drink cooler set up containing a 12 amp hour 12 volt gel cell that I can take along for extended operations, and a 30 watt BP-Solar SX-30 solar panel for charging if AC power isn't available. I keep a 6 amp power supply in the car at all times, and of course, cables to clip onto the car battery if necessary. Lots of fun available. Now all I gotta do is convince wife that I need a KX1 as well. Don't need it, just want one. Jim - W0EB Wichita, KS K2#4338 The > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On > Behalf Of Wayne Reed > Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 7:09 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] K2 As Only Rig in Shack > > > Gang, > My basic K2 [5 watt version] is my station rig. I have a > NC-20 in white metal for field use. That will be > supplemented by a K1 as soon as the budget will stand it and > SHMBO [lets not start that again] approves. > As for general coverage, I have a Hallicrafters S-38 > [circa 1946] that provides all the band coverage one could > want at least on HF. > > Wayne, K9NE > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Can Elecraft take over the global HF ham radiobusiness ?
For me, it is not question about competition and taking of global market. It is a question of RIG specs. K2 (UFB like kit) has some great characteristics but there is plenty room for improovments, wich are almost impossible to do on -$$$ RIG's. The only way to have the superb rig nowadays is to build it! Funny but true. There is no kit and no RIG on the market, wich would have superb characteristics, which are quiet easy to obtain with current available parts.But there are plenty of functions wich You will never use. JA's have built monsters with TFT's thousands of buttons and a lot of excessive and unneeded weight (some of them with 100's of buttons with third function and 10 hidden menus ecc) to sell to average operators, wich are only worried by the look and number of memories. But after 20 or even 30 years of development they almost forgot the main: RX and TX. LO's in modern moderate cost rigs are not so good like they where two decades ago. At that time, there were few stations with LL power (Legal Limit) now every 3rd stn is running at least 1KW. And with dirty transmission , there we have a problem, if we do not not talk about wide range front ends ecc. But we are endangered part of HAM's.The part wich still has a lot of will to explore and solder. The part which will not run to buy 1 USD RIG regardles of having monney or not. But this is like ping directly to the wind. The ratio i suppose is 1:1000, but not in our advantage :( 73's and CU S55M-Adi - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 1:19 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE: Can Elecraft take over the global HF ham radiobusiness ? > In a message dated 5/19/05 9:13:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] > writes: > > > > in their heyday, Heathkit didn't "take over" > > the ham radio market. Certainly they were wildly popular -- but there > > were plenty of companies that sold built equipment. > > There were also other companies selling serious kits, like EF Johnson. > > Heath's line of ham gear, particularly receivers, at any given time was very > limited compared to other companies. Heathkits were pretty good but not in the > same class > as, say, Collins or Drake. > > > And that was in > > > > an age when completely homebrew stations were the norm. > > > > I've been a ham since 1967 and completely homebrew stations were rare even > then. Of course today a few still homebrew: > > http://hometown.aol.com/n2ey/myhomepage/index.html > > > > Today, things are different. Appliance operators rule, and the kit- > > built rig is an exception. It would be difficult to overcome that > > bias in order to "take over". > > > > I'd say that "appliance" stations have been most numerous since at least the > mid-60s if not longer. > > Elecraft's success shows that not everyone wants to go that way, though. > That's a good thing. > > 73 de Jim, N2EY > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] OT Firebottle question
Egg on face. Thanks to Kevin and Ron for the Glowbugs tip, but I never got a round tuit. To rule out the T/R relay, I put the 'scope on the tank output, and had volts! Rechecking the coax, switch and dummy load connections, I found my intermittent. Securing that and voila! 200 V p-p across 50 ohms (That is 100 watts, no?). Anyhow, if you look in the Griefkit book under REL PWR way too high, it says to check that you've connected your antenna. Ggh. The 170 volt spec in the Tx voltage chart is clearly marked for RF-drive off, but only appears at RF-drive full. Getting to have wy to many grains of salt in this reading exercise. I'm sure I'll wind up on the Glowbugs list anyhow, but not today! I've got to warm up the ionosphere! Now, if I can just find the guy that bought my 1981 UP Comet OVR Hang Glider! I've not seen him fly it for a year or two, so it may be on the block! Is it a symptom or getting old, returning to the 1970's? Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 Here is a good list for you! glowbugs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 As Only Rig in Shack
Gang, My basic K2 [5 watt version] is my station rig. I have a NC-20 in white metal for field use. That will be supplemented by a K1 as soon as the budget will stand it and SHMBO [lets not start that again] approves. As for general coverage, I have a Hallicrafters S-38 [circa 1946] that provides all the band coverage one could want at least on HF. Wayne, K9NE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: Can Elecraft take over the global HF ham radio business ?
In a message dated 5/19/05 9:13:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > in their heyday, Heathkit didn't "take over" > the ham radio market. Certainly they were wildly popular -- but there > were plenty of companies that sold built equipment. There were also other companies selling serious kits, like EF Johnson. Heath's line of ham gear, particularly receivers, at any given time was very limited compared to other companies. Heathkits were pretty good but not in the same class as, say, Collins or Drake. And that was in > > an age when completely homebrew stations were the norm. > I've been a ham since 1967 and completely homebrew stations were rare even then. Of course today a few still homebrew: http://hometown.aol.com/n2ey/myhomepage/index.html > Today, things are different. Appliance operators rule, and the kit- > built rig is an exception. It would be difficult to overcome that > bias in order to "take over". > I'd say that "appliance" stations have been most numerous since at least the mid-60s if not longer. Elecraft's success shows that not everyone wants to go that way, though. That's a good thing. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hexkey owner.
Hi, The Hexkey I ordered turned up today, and what an impressive gadget it is. This is my first commercial set of paddles I have owned, all my previous ones being "home brewed", and it is real nice to now own an accurately made , solid paddle. I have to say I am impressed with the solid billet of steel the base is made from, and the rest of the construction is pretty robust and well finished, and has a very light action. Very nice. I like a paddle that is bolted together with "real" bearings that don't fly apart when too much enthusiasm is applied. Unfortunately I now have no excuse for missing of "muffed" characters in my sending...( sigh)... Cheers..Ron ZL1TW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
