[fpqrp] Re: FT Palm IIIc
A trade has been made. Thanks to those who replied for their interest Bob Baxter AA7EQ On 6/22/05, Bob Baxter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have 2 Palm IIIc color handhelds and would like to trade one of them > for monochrome (non color) Palm. It comes with 8mb ram, hot-sync > cradle and charger. Model isn't important as long as it works. > -- > Bob Baxter AA7EQ > Walnut Ridge, Ar. > -- -To unsubscribe, mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED], msg: unsubscribe fpqrp-l -
[Elecraft] K2 SN # 5000
>"Looks like #5000 may have already been purchased and might be on it's way to someone!" 73 de Larry W2LJ * I was the poster on May 25 who asked the question on who got or who was going to get SN # 5000. Now that I have another K2 in route, (thank you to W8IIE for that!) you would think I would be rewarded with # 5000. But it is not to be. I hope Eric or Wayne have it. If I have a choice of no K2 or a K2 with a SN other than 5000, well that is an easy choice. tom bosscher K8TB K2 # 3206 and one yet to be named. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] QRP Web Based Forum Returns
For those that enjoy web based venues, the QRP forum has returned. www.zerobeat.net/qrp/phpBB2/ Feel free to drop by, add some content, and/or make some suggestions for topics. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] FT100 Knob
Bill, The allen wrench size for the FT-100 knob is metric and as I recall it is 2mm, I could be wrong (blame fuzzy memory), but it is very close to that size - I do know 2.5 mm is too big. Ignore the US sizes when looking, none of them will fit - I tried and had to go dig for my metric set. Most good hardware type stores should stock what is needed - take your knob shopping with you. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Thanks to the groupe I was offered a knob. > All I need to do now is find an allen wrench that fits! > 73 > N2DH > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.7.10/25 - Release Date: 6/21/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FT100 Knob
Thanks to the groupe I was offered a knob. All I need to do now is find an allen wrench that fits! 73 N2DH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 4993 arrived today..
Word has it that K2 #5000 might be headed to the Smithsonian! 73, Tom N0SS At 05:01 PM 6/22/2005, Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote: NZ8J wrote: K2 4993 with associated accessories (KPA100/DSP/etc..) showed up on my doorstep this afternoon. Looks like #5000 may have already been purchased and might be on it's way to someone! 73 de Larry W2LJ BTW - good luck, Tim! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Building KX1 # 00920
Mike, KD7YLA, asked: Today I completed the first Test & Alignment of the KX1 # 00920. All tests went exactly as the book calls for, and the building proceeds with no problems up to this point. I do have the KXPD1, KXB30,and the KXAT1 option kits as well; I was wondering if it would be wiser to finish building the KX1 as is first, and do all the alignments tests; then build the optional kits? My concern is for any later modifications needed to the main PCB when the kits are added on later. Congratulations Mike! Definitely build the basic KX1 first, complete all tests and get familiar with its operation before going onto the other modules. The other modules can be tackled in any order desired, although the paddles probably make the most sense for the second project if you don't have other paddles to use with it. That's true of ALL Elecraft kits, by the way. And it's good practice any time, anywhere when you build or troubleshoot. Start with the basic unit, make sure it's working exactly as it should, then start making changes. Test and retest after EVERY addition or change. In my years of building and service experience on everything from a one-transistor QRPp rig to commercial radio and radar installations, when something goes wrong it's never been something that just happened to fail at the time I was there. As much as I have at times desperately wanted to believe in a coincidence, the problem has always been something that I touched recently, either actually building or repairing, or it was something I did peripherally while disassembling or reassembling things. It makes it a lot easier to find an error if you haven't done any more than absolutely necessary before testing to make sure everything is (still) working. On the other hand, there's absolutely nothing as hard to troubleshoot as a radio that hasn't ever worked (yet). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 4993 arrived today..
NZ8J wrote: K2 4993 with associated accessories (KPA100/DSP/etc..) showed up on my doorstep this afternoon. Looks like #5000 may have already been purchased and might be on it's way to someone! 73 de Larry W2LJ BTW - good luck, Tim! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 4993 arrived today..
K2 4993 with associated accessories (KPA100/DSP/etc..) showed up on my doorstep this afternoon. Looks like a daunting task that I'm sure will take several weeks to complete at the pace I'll be able to withstand. Thanks to all for the words of encouragement and insight to building the K2.. I won't bore you with numerous progress reports, but may ask for help or clarification from time to time... 73 Tim Nz8J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Building KX1 # 00920
Today I completed the first Test & Alignment of the KX1 # 00920. All tests went exactly as the book calls for, and the building proceeds with no problems up to this point. I do have the KXPD1, KXB30,and the KXAT1 option kits as well; I was wondering if it would be wiser to finish building the KX1 as is first, and do all the alignments tests; then build the optional kits? My concern is for any later modifications needed to the main PCB when the kits are added on later. Thank you very much to the many replies I have had from list members off list about operating the KX1 with solar power. I have had some very solid information, all of it excellent. I plan to look into that when the unit is built nad properly aligned. This has been a very good "stress reducer" project for me, a nice break from the SMT work I have been doing in some prototyping designs on my bench the hardest part will be turning it over to its owner; now I will have to buy my own. Thank you again to all on this list. The focus and civility are wonderful, other lists I have been on became too burdensome with all the hype, flaming, and lack of focus on the list intent; this group is great. Mike Heit KD7YLA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV144 works great
On Wed, 2005-06-22 at 07:22 -0700, Gregory P. Daly wrote: > That might keep Bob going for a little while longer, but what about > guys that have all 3 transverters? . and all their option slots > stuffed full and a couple baluns. and a load we're running > out of stuff to build! The XV432 would be a nice morsel to chew on until > the new power amp is available... But then what?.. the beast > must be feed ;-) Um... sell the stuff and start over? There's one guy on here who's built something like 80 K2's for other people. I've only got the K2, KPA100, and KSB2, so my beast won't be going hungry any time soon (well, not for lack of something to build, perhaps for lack of money). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 adventure
Hi Mike, Reminds me of what I did last week checking my K2 mods. I was not getting as much audio on 30 meters as I was getting on 20 M and 40 M. I figured I messed up one of the mods. I finally realized that I wasn't hearing many signals either, so propagation must have sucked as well. Then I see the tuner switch is on "dummy load", dummy referring to the operator. After that the radio worked great. Steve, W2MY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ARCBS Covered Bridge Activators- Sept. 3 -4, 2005
Hello all! Here are the covered bridge activators to date who plan to activate a bridge sometime during this fun event: Canada:VE1REC CA:WA6BFH GA:N2MC, K4AQ OH:KI8I PA:N3YMX, K3YTR, KC4OCE, WA3WSJ IN:N9LAH TN:KF4YUZ If I missed anyone or if a call is listed by mistake, please email me. Looks like we will be on the air for this really FUN weekend. "On the Air: Covered Bridges from the Past." It has a nice sound to it! We are always looking for more operators for the ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend. If anyone wants to be listed as a covered bridge activator for this event, please email me. All activators will receive a special certificate. All your QSOs are also eligible for a "ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Certificate." If anyone contacts "10" covered bridges, they will receive a very nice "Golden Truss Certificate." Activators just have to send in your logs and the ARCBS will send out the certificates. Please tell your contacts to QSL to: ARCBS Attn. Covered Bridge Weekend 775 Moonflower Ave. Reading, PA 19606-3447 OR Email log to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Covered Bridge Activators: Please give out Call, RST, Bridge Name, Bridge #, QTH, ARCBS # (if you have one) If anyone has any suggestions on how we could make this event more FUN, please email me. http://www.arcbs.org/files/ARCBSadministration/ARCBSnews.html mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARCBS # 1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 adventure
Completing the K2 set, last night I finished the KAT100 tuner! I have an attic dipole (for bad wx use) and a classic 135' Zepp strung over to the woods perfectly placed about 145' from the house. So when the ant tuner was done I hooked up each antenna to its two connectors. But I had no signal coming in the connector with the Zepp. I used the AT menus to test each relay & they all clicked. Hmmm, took the cover off the AT, chose each antenna & checked relay K18 with an ohmmeter and everything looked good for each ant. setting. Only then did it occur to me to put the Zepp on the other connector which had been working fine with the attic ant. Oh no, now neither connector was working. (Yes, I was sleepy.) It was close to midnight and I figured I'd better stop since I had to get up for work. That's when it dawned on me - I had never connected the Zepp feedline to the line inside the house! :-P My shoulders sagged and I groaned. So I connected the feedline, and everything worked perfectly. Moral: it really isn't wise for me to do much thinking around midnight! Maybe the story is a little entertaining - though at the expense of my pride. :-) By the way, what a great tuner! It makes matches my LDG never could, and is so convenient to use with the tight integration to the K2. Mike AB3AP, sleepy at work ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Weak Audio on 20M
Hi, Mike. You're right. This is normal behaviour for the KX1. The S meter is lower on 20m because it driven by an audio derived AGC, and audio levels are lower on 20m due to the design of the radio. It does work though... with a 20-40 foot wire vertically in a tree, in good solar conditions, around 6pm in the evening you should see the S meter pegged to max for quite a few of the stronger signals, but the weak or medium ones will not cause any S meter indication. I find at other times or on my 10ft indoor RX antenna, because signals are weaker, the S meter does not usually show any LED segments for any signals on 20M. Have you calibrated the S meter? I have mine calibrated so that background atmospheric noise on 40m causes the first LED segment to flicker. On 20m/30m there is usually no LED segments lit when there is no signal, and on 20m it takes a fairly strong signal to light any segments. My LED menu settings are: H 3 L 75 For comparison. Don't forget to perform the S meter calibration on your "real" antenna not just with 10ft wire connected in the shack ;) The receiver sensitivity is fine though as you pointed out. I have had most of my contacts on 20m and even to the Azores Island (8,500 km per watt!). Using earbuds over standard earphones helps because they limit the external noise due to the fact that they fit tightly into the ear canal. Some people have suggested using earbuds with a greater sensetivity rating. I have Sony MDR-E848 earbuds which have a sensetivity of 108 dB/mW and a pair or earphones (not earbuds) with a 117 dB/mW rating. I can hear no difference, I need to max out the AF gain on 20m for both. There is a behaviour of the KX1 which you will also discover. Very strong signals cause a weak "mirror image" of the signal on the other side of the carrier frequency. I'll explain what I mean: For a weak or moderate signal as you tune the radio you will hear the signal start high in pitch and get lower or start low in pitch and get higher depending on the tuning direction. Once the signal is either too high or too low in frequency that it is outside the receiever's passband you will not hear the signal again if you continue tuning in that direction. For a strong signal however if you tune in the direction that the signal goes from high pitch to low pitch, and continue tuning after the signal is no longer audible you will hear the signal again but much weaker, rising in pitch (while all the other signals are lowering in pitch). This is an indication of a very strong signal! Martin. VA3SIE/QRP/P. ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power
Hi Thanks for your input and this is exactly the method I use to check my panels. I just suggest the resistor method because some DVM's do not have current ranges and the possibility of damage to the current ranges if the wrong range is used. Measuring current with a DVM is always a possible problem if you forget the meter is on current and then measure a voltage source. Most meters are now protected with a fuse but it is a hassle if the fuse blows. The resistor method is safer but not necessarily better. Don Brown - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power > > In a message dated 22/06/05 15:26:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] > writes: > > You can test the output current by connecting a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor > across the panel and measuring the output voltage > > > Reply: . > > In practice you do not even need to do that. > > During some commissioning of a large solar powered microwave system I was > involved with about 5 years back that used up to 15kW of solar power at > each > site (200 x 75W 12V solar panels), the contractors who installed the > system > tested the output by connecting an ammeter effectively directly across > the solar > panel output terminals. When I raised the question would this not cause > damage? They came back quite rightly, no, the current will limit at what > the > solar panels are capable of providing. In these installations the total > array was > divided into 12 banks of 48V sections with panels in series and parallel > to > make up the arrangement. As the current involved was considerable the > method > involved was to place a heavy gauge piece of wire after the solar panel > breaker and when the bank was activated measure the resulting current > through the > piece of wire with a calibrated AC/DC clamp type current sensor and a > DVM. > > With the type of solar panels normally used by hams, probably a DVM on a > suitable current range direct across the solar panel terminals would do > the job. > You have to take care that the panel being tested is isolated from all > other > power sources such as batteries, but at the end of the day the panel will > not supply any more than what it is rated to give. > > Don, KD5NDB was very correct on the need for a blocking diode to be > inserted > in series with each solar panel when multiple panels are in use, > otherwise a > panel in shade where the other(s) are in illumination, could absorb the > power being generated by back feeding into this panel. > > Larger sized panels normally have the blocking diode included inside the > panel assembly or terminal box. In addition they have internally what I > believe > are called bypass diodes to prevent the panel limiting the voltage within > itself when part of the panel is in shade where the rest is illuminated. > > Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update
I repeated the procedures that dealt with adjustments on the board, but skipped over things like the temperature calibration and current limit steps. Mike AB3AP Jean-François Ménard wrote on 06/22/05 12:56 ET: > Did you redo an alignment of the KPA100 after, or you just changed the 2 > caps ? > > -Message d'origine- > De : [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] De la part de Mike Markowski > Envoyé : 22 juin 2005 12:36 > Cc : Elecraft Reflector > Objet : Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update > > Vic Rosenthal wrote on 06/22/05 12:22 ET: > >>Stewart Baker wrote: >> >> >>>I had problems with HI CUR on 14 & 18MHz, 3.6 and 3.7 Amps respectively. >>>Changing C80 & C81 cured the problem, and I now have 2.9 and 2.4 Amps >>>drawn. >> >>What value did you change them to? > > > Apparently, all new kits will use 5600 pF, 5% caps for C80 and C81. > > Mike AB3AP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power
In a message dated 22/06/05 15:26:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: You can test the output current by connecting a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor across the panel and measuring the output voltage Reply: . In practice you do not even need to do that. During some commissioning of a large solar powered microwave system I was involved with about 5 years back that used up to 15kW of solar power at each site (200 x 75W 12V solar panels), the contractors who installed the system tested the output by connecting an ammeter effectively directly across the solar panel output terminals. When I raised the question would this not cause damage? They came back quite rightly, no, the current will limit at what the solar panels are capable of providing. In these installations the total array was divided into 12 banks of 48V sections with panels in series and parallel to make up the arrangement. As the current involved was considerable the method involved was to place a heavy gauge piece of wire after the solar panel breaker and when the bank was activated measure the resulting current through the piece of wire with a calibrated AC/DC clamp type current sensor and a DVM. With the type of solar panels normally used by hams, probably a DVM on a suitable current range direct across the solar panel terminals would do the job. You have to take care that the panel being tested is isolated from all other power sources such as batteries, but at the end of the day the panel will not supply any more than what it is rated to give. Don, KD5NDB was very correct on the need for a blocking diode to be inserted in series with each solar panel when multiple panels are in use, otherwise a panel in shade where the other(s) are in illumination, could absorb the power being generated by back feeding into this panel. Larger sized panels normally have the blocking diode included inside the panel assembly or terminal box. In addition they have internally what I believe are called bypass diodes to prevent the panel limiting the voltage within itself when part of the panel is in shade where the rest is illuminated. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 turn off
Mike, Absolutley, I use the feature all the time. Select the "PLY" on the menu and press the tuning knob. The display will show "P=0" 73, KI4DGH Chuck G. > > From: "mc" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/06/21 Tue PM 09:01:00 CDT > To: > Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 turn off > > is there a way to turn off the through the menu the is the transmitter part > of the KX1 but not by turning the trimmer under the cover, so it can be used > as a exercise keyer with any output > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FT Palm IIIc
I have 2 Palm IIIc color handhelds and would like to trade one of them for monochrome (non color) Palm. It comes with 8mb ram, hot-sync cradle and charger. Model isn't important as long as it works. -- Bob Baxter AA7EQ Walnut Ridge, Ar. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Question about T1
Paul, M1CNK asked: How well does the T1 auto tuner remember frequencies within a band? I am looking at making a vertical for 80m that will have a relatively small bandwidth (say 30-40kHz). Therefore, I am wondering whether I could put a T1 auto tuner at the base of the vertical with a remote tune switch. I'll be using my K2 so currently no option for using the band data. Does the T1 remember individual frequencies within a band and also measure the incoming frequency to speed up the retune or will it have to start from scratch every time? --- It sounds like you can count on the T1 being ready to operate in 2 seconds or less after changing frequencies, Paul. As I understand the algorithm, the T1 simply keeps a memory of recent settings that resulted in a match. When you launch an auto-tune cycle, it first runs through those memorized settings to see if one produces a low SWR on the link to the rig. If you're returning to a previously-used frequency it'll find the match using the previously-stored setting very quickly (1 to 2 seconds). Only when it's gone through the previously-stored settings without finding match does the tuner then launch through the whole tune-up process looking for the best match. That can take several seconds. Of course, once found, it's written to the memory for quick recall later. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update
Did you redo an alignment of the KPA100 after, or you just changed the 2 caps ? -Message d'origine- De : [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] De la part de Mike Markowski Envoyé : 22 juin 2005 12:36 Cc : Elecraft Reflector Objet : Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update Vic Rosenthal wrote on 06/22/05 12:22 ET: > Stewart Baker wrote: > >> I had problems with HI CUR on 14 & 18MHz, 3.6 and 3.7 Amps respectively. >> Changing C80 & C81 cured the problem, and I now have 2.9 and 2.4 Amps >> drawn. > > What value did you change them to? Apparently, all new kits will use 5600 pF, 5% caps for C80 and C81. Mike AB3AP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: ELECRAFT KAF2
Does anyone have a KAF2 they're not using? Please contact me off-list if you do. Tnx es 73, ed - k9ew ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update
Vic Rosenthal wrote on 06/22/05 12:22 ET: > Stewart Baker wrote: > >> I had problems with HI CUR on 14 & 18MHz, 3.6 and 3.7 Amps respectively. >> Changing C80 & C81 cured the problem, and I now have 2.9 and 2.4 Amps >> drawn. > > What value did you change them to? Apparently, all new kits will use 5600 pF, 5% caps for C80 and C81. Mike AB3AP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Weak Audio on 20M
Folks, I recently completed the KX1 and found a huge difference in the audio on 40M (strong) versus 20M(weak). On 20M, I always need the AF gain turned up to max, or close to it. Also, the s-meter does not function on 20M (it works on 40m). I do not think this is an issue with the headphones since 40M is fine. The receiver sensitivity on 20M 'seems' to be ok when compared to other radios in the shack, but I really need to crank the af gain up. I've checked all solder connections, and will double check component orientation, but I do double checks on that during the build anyway. I'll check the voltages per the manual. Any comments on likely places on the board to particularly scrutinize would be appreciated. Mike Hagey-NR7F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update
Stewart Baker wrote: I had problems with HI CUR on 14 & 18MHz, 3.6 and 3.7 Amps respectively. Changing C80 & C81 cured the problem, and I now have 2.9 and 2.4 Amps drawn. What value did you change them to? -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update
I had problems with HI CUR on 14 & 18MHz, 3.6 and 3.7 Amps respectively. Changing C80 & C81 cured the problem, and I now have 2.9 and 2.4 Amps drawn. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 10:36:20 -0400, Mike Markowski wrote: > This is a follow up to my own problem for the sake of complete Elecraft > > archives. :-) > > A few weeks back I mentioned having slightly lower power on 30m. When > the power knob was at its max, I had 97 W while all other bands were > close to 120 W. What I forgot to mention is that on both 20 m and 30 m > I always got the HI CUR warning, though the warning threshold was set to > 3.5 A. > > I recalibrated the PA and then got 100+ W on 30 m. But a subsequent > check a week or so later showed I was back down to 95 W into a dummy > load. Not a big deal, really, but I didn't like the HI CUR message and > spoke with Gary at Elecraft about it. He recommended changing the C80 & > C81 caps. After doing so, I no longer get the HI CUR warning. In > addition, I get slightly over 100 W on all bands rather than the nearly > 120 W on most. Whether that it's due to new caps or better calibration, > though, I don't know... I posted this followup because initially it > seemed that a simple recalibration took care of the issue, but turns out > I needed new caps like the other guys who were suffering from even worse > side effects of their C80 and C81! > > 73, > Mike AB3AP > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Question about T1
How well does the T1 auto tuner remember frequencies within a band? I am looking at making a vertical for 80m that will have a relatively small bandwidth (say 30-40kHz). Therefore, I am wondering whether I could put a T1 auto tuner at the base of the vertical with a remote tune switch. I'll be using my K2 so currently no option for using the band data. Does the T1 remember individual frequencies within a band and also measure the incoming frequency to speed up the retune or will it have to start from scratch everytime? One thought to "automate" the process would be to have a external SWR circuit between my K2 and the T1 to toggle the remote tune switch every time it goes over a limit such as 2.0:1 73 Paul M1CNK Paul Wilton email [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 power on 20m/30m, update
This is a follow up to my own problem for the sake of complete Elecraft archives. :-) A few weeks back I mentioned having slightly lower power on 30m. When the power knob was at its max, I had 97 W while all other bands were close to 120 W. What I forgot to mention is that on both 20 m and 30 m I always got the HI CUR warning, though the warning threshold was set to 3.5 A. I recalibrated the PA and then got 100+ W on 30 m. But a subsequent check a week or so later showed I was back down to 95 W into a dummy load. Not a big deal, really, but I didn't like the HI CUR message and spoke with Gary at Elecraft about it. He recommended changing the C80 & C81 caps. After doing so, I no longer get the HI CUR warning. In addition, I get slightly over 100 W on all bands rather than the nearly 120 W on most. Whether that it's due to new caps or better calibration, though, I don't know... I posted this followup because initially it seemed that a simple recalibration took care of the issue, but turns out I needed new caps like the other guys who were suffering from even worse side effects of their C80 and C81! 73, Mike AB3AP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power
Hi There may be two different types out there or you may not have them in the same intensity light. A Solar panel is a constant current generator. Its current and open circuit voltage is dependent on the amount of light falling on the panel. Each cell in the panel outputs about .5 volt in full sun. The cells are connected in series or series-parallel to get the voltage high enough to charge the battery plus a little overhead. The VW panels only need about 14 volts to charge the battery in the car so they may have a version of the panel wired for only 15 volts. The three panels I once had would output about 18 volts in full sun open circuit and about 170 mA under full load. You can test the output current by connecting a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor across the panel and measuring the output voltage. 170 mA would be 1.7 volts. I have some commercial Solarex panels that will output up to 30 volts open circuit in full sun and almost 6 amps under load. This panel is about 20x57 and rated at 80 watts. The VW panels have a blocking diode in the plug to prevent reverse current. This reverse current will discharge the battery when the panel is dark. If you remove the plug be sure to install a blocking diode unless your controller includes one internally. You can parallel several panels to increase the current but a blocking diode is a good idea on each panel to prevent reverse current flow when one panel is in the sun and another is in the shade. Even if you have two panels with different voltages if you parallel them through the blocking diodes once they are connected to a load the voltage will drop to the battery voltage and the current from each panel should flow into the battery. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 6:48 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power > Don Brown mentioned the VW solar panels... > > After seeing them referenced on this list a few times over the years, I > finally went to the local dealer yesterday, asked gently about solar > panels, > and walked away with two of them. What a deal! > > ( Now I'm wondering: Why does one read 15V and the other 25V when they're > side by side? ) > > Scott N1AIA > K1 00139 > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV144 works great
On Wed, 2005-06-22 at 08:15 -0300, Brian Mury wrote: > In the meantime you can build the XV222... :-) > That might keep Bob going for a little while longer, but what about guys that have all 3 transverters? . and all their option slots stuffed full and a couple baluns. and a load we're running out of stuff to build! The XV432 would be a nice morsel to chew on until the new power amp is available... But then what?.. the beast must be feed ;-) 73 DE WB7RSG Greg. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Two Questions
I've worked at locations that the folk who do soldering nearly their entire shift have a fume hood to take care of that problem. Of course for 8 hours/day 5 days a week every week, that seems like a good thing to do, and may be required by OSHA for all I know. I'm currently working at a small startup company and the guys who do lots of soldering don't have fume hoods, but they do use a small muffin fan to blow air across the bench. The benches are lined up back to back, so they can't blow it out the back of the bench into somebody else's area, but there is generally nobody working on the workbench next to them, so that is why it blows across. Rather than having the small oscillating fan blowing the fumes toward you try to have it blowing to the side or away from you. It should be fine. Having not used a fan at home myself when I built my K2 and extra modules I noticed that my lungs were a bit sensitive & I coughed more than I should have for several hours afterward. Since I worked on the K2 in the evenings for several hours each night and until I went to bed the extra coughing didn't allow me to get to sleep very well. Watch for those sort of signs -- listen to your body -- and adjust accordingly if necessary (do what I say, not what I do). 73, Mark, NK8Q K2 4786 >From: David Dietrich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: Wed Jun 22 08:18:00 CDT 2005 >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: [Elecraft] Two Questions >Greetings DE KC9EHQ, > >I am a little over 1/2 way through my KNB1 before I start on my anniversary >present (K1). > >My lab is set up in our basement where I have my table in front of a window. >I do have a small oscillating fan blowing air out the window. Is that enough >to keep the solder fumes to a minimum, or do I need a window fan? I will only >be working on this for about 2 hours/session until the radio is completed. >I'd work upstairs at the kitchen table, but the XYL doesn't want this stuff >upstairs. Any suggestions as to what others have done would be helpful. > >My other question concerns the three capacitors on the bottom of the Rev. C >board. Are they supposed to be mounted so they are lying flat against the >board as opposed to the way you would mount them if they were on top? > >Any help is always great! > >Thanks & 73, > >David >KC9EHQ > > >__ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com >___ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SSB K2 sound good!!
Martin: Gruess Gott! Since I'll be using my K2 for this weekends Field Day for the SSB station I figured I better start trying it out a bit more on SSB. So last night I cranked it up on 40m and had several nice QSOs. Other than normal band conditions that changed I got good audio reports and had some very enjoyable QSOs as well. One station I worked for about 35 minutes while he was mobile in Minnesota, K7YOO/m. He was quite intruiged with the K2 and sounded like he will be checking it out a bit more when he gets back home again. He had built some Heathkit equipment back in its day so I think he would really enjoy building the Elecraft kits as well. Although he was using Yeasu HF mobile equipment his home station uses either a Watkins Johnson or a Harris transceiver. He also uses some old boat anchors (I'm not talking about "old" rice-box stuff, but real radios from back in the 50's). He claimed that the Rx capabilities are much more important to him than any other features (a wise man). I hope he gets a chance to check out an Elecraft sometime soon, I think he'll be impressed. He even signed off telling me that maybe the next time we have a QSO it will be with a new K2 that he built. Anyway, even though I didn't get to hear my own audio being played back to me, I guess if a guy hears the signal and claims he would like to get one as well that is a pretty good report. I hope to be on to test it out again tonight and tomorrow night as well. Of course the ultimate test will be on Saturday afternoon for about 24 hours. I'll be operating the "midnight shift", thank God as the temps are supposed to be pretty hot during the day on Saturday and our F.D. QTH is in the middle of a wide open grassy field with no shade, other than the shade we bring. 73 und Tschuess, Mark, NK8Q K2 4786 >From: "Renardy, Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: Wed Jun 22 08:12:36 CDT 2005 >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: [Elecraft] SSB K2 sound good!! > >Dear all, > >this morning I have spoken with a german guy who is living on a greek >island (maybe with the sirene women?!?) >on 20m and was able to record my transmission and he replayed it to me. > >So the first time I heard my own trasmission using the K2 and it is >realy very good!!! The K2 has a clear good >modulation. > >Regards > >Martin, DL6KMR > > >___ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power
"Michael & Donna Heit" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote : > Has anyone used the KX1 in the field with solar power ? If so, was any info > sent on this list? > I am building a KX1 and was interested in using solar , or solar back up > power for extended field use. > Thank you very much. I do this all the time with my KX1. I use a 2ah Gel cell, a Micro M+ Portable charge controller from Sunlight Energy Systems and a 5W flexible Coleman PV panel that folds up to about the size of a hardcover book. This adds very little bulk or weight to my portable setup. You could easily get by with a lower wattage panel as the average current draw of the rig is probably just a bit over 100 milliamps, depending on how you choose to do the math (ie what figure you use for %TX time). The current draw figures for the Rig are about 40ma for RX and 650 ma for TX. As long as you are putting about 100 ma, or a little more, back into the battery via the PV panel you should break even. With a smaller panel you probably don't even need to bother with a charge controller. One advantage of doing this is that the rig sees a fairly constant 13+ V DC in and will run at full power, at least while the sun is shining. Michael VE3WMB P.S. The Volkswagen panels should be idea for this application and they are cheap (often free from VW dealers, if you ask nicely, or inexpensive from Ebay). BTW there is a QRP Solar Power Yahoo! Group if you are looking for more detailed answers. ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Two Questions
Greetings DE KC9EHQ, I am a little over 1/2 way through my KNB1 before I start on my anniversary present (K1). My lab is set up in our basement where I have my table in front of a window. I do have a small oscillating fan blowing air out the window. Is that enough to keep the solder fumes to a minimum, or do I need a window fan? I will only be working on this for about 2 hours/session until the radio is completed. I'd work upstairs at the kitchen table, but the XYL doesn't want this stuff upstairs. Any suggestions as to what others have done would be helpful. My other question concerns the three capacitors on the bottom of the Rev. C board. Are they supposed to be mounted so they are lying flat against the board as opposed to the way you would mount them if they were on top? Any help is always great! Thanks & 73, David KC9EHQ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SSB K2 sound good!!
Dear all, this morning I have spoken with a german guy who is living on a greek island (maybe with the sirene women?!?) on 20m and was able to record my transmission and he replayed it to me. So the first time I heard my own trasmission using the K2 and it is realy very good!!! The K2 has a clear good modulation. Regards Martin, DL6KMR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Our Un-Module Header PCB Kit Product Launching
Jim Wrote: Gosh guyslooked at the link and came away scratching my head! If you build a better mouse trap you probably need to tell everyone that [it] is a better mouse trap. No where did I find anything that told me what value this is going to add to me in [exchange] for my hard earned bucks. (i.e. marketing 101) 73, Jim, AB0Uk K2 sn 4787 Hi Jim, Thank you for your input. Please see our User's Guide. You will find a link to it on both the http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs.htm and http://groups.yahoo.com/group/unpcbs/ web pages. The direct link is http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/Users_Guide.htm. Especially check out the first four sections of the User's Guide: o Introduction o Are Rework EliminatorsT for You? o Getting the Most Out of Un-Modules o A Few Words About Rework Also, question #7 on our unpcbs Yahoo Group FAQ (under the Database section) addresses this issue for those with fully loaded rigs. You must join our Yahoo group to be able to access its databases. 73, Gary, KI4GGX K2 #4067 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Our Un-Module Header PCB Kit Product Launching
I agree the information is hard to find. The Web site assumes you came there because you already know what the product is. However, I found good information in the online manual, which I'll quote here: Introduction Every Elecraft K2 internal option kit includes some parts that need to be installed in the K2 itself. Most options also require the removal or in rare cases the replacement of some of the existing components in the K2. With a few exceptions, the subsequent removal of an option requires the restoration of some if not all of the altered circuitry back to its original state. Instead of reworking its PCBs, an easier way to restore the K2 is to do so "off board". Using this approach, headers that are wired with the necessary "restoration" circuitry are inserted into the same jacks where the option module would be if it were installed. Getting the Most Out of Un-Modules Un-modules are most useful when incorporated into the K2 during initial assembly. This requires that you have the extra "K2 parts" on hand that are included with each of the options. (For those options that you will be buying later you will need to purchase duplicates of these parts in advance.) The un-modules would then remain installed until the corresponding internal option module is purchased and/or built. In this role, un-modules eliminate the need for any subsequent disassembly of, and rework to the base K2. Other than the insertion of the completed option and any required realignment, there would be no need to go back inside. The elimination of later rework ought to be especially desirable to builders-for-hire (and those who rely on them) as it offers the possibility of adding many of the options one-by-one, without having to part with the radio each time, while someone else performs the upgrade. Even if all of the internal options are never installed by the original owner, the use of un-modules should still be a selling point adding to a K2's resale value (if you should ever be willing to part with it). Un-modules are also useful to the owner of an existing K2 because they make it possible to perform all of the upgrades to the RF and Control boards "all at once", without having to install any of the actual modules. The rework needed for the K2 options that don't require an un-module (KIO2, KPA-100, and KBT2) can/should also be done as part of this process. A Few Words About Rework Eliminating a rework does more than just save you time. All rework reduces the quality and reliability of a circuit board. This applies even when the rework is done properly by professional assembly technicians using the best equipment. Clearly this motivation for the use of un-modules isn't applicable to an existing K2. However, it is a compelling justification for anyone contemplating a new K2 build. Hope this helps. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Harris Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 7:24 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Our Un-Module Header PCB Kit Product Launching Gosh guyslooked at the link and came away scratching my head! If you build a better mouse trap you probably need to tell everyone that is is a better mouse trap. No where did I find anything that told me what value this is going to add to me in exhange for my hard earned bucks. (i.e. marketing 101) 73, Jim, AB0Uk K2 sn 4787 Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Our Un-Module Header PCB Kit Product Launching
Gosh guyslooked at the link and came away scratching my head! If you build a better mouse trap you probably need to tell everyone that is is a better mouse trap. No where did I find anything that told me what value this is going to add to me in exhange for my hard earned bucks. (i.e. marketing 101) 73, Jim, AB0Uk K2 sn 4787 Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV144 works great
On Tue, 2005-06-21 at 21:50 -0500, Bob Evans wrote: > Since I've now got the XV50 and XV144, it would sure be nice to see > the XV432 announced as being ready for shipment. In the meantime you can build the XV222... :-) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: More Pedestrian KX1's Needed
Serious question Bill. If you are not walking along a clear surface like a sidewalk or in a play park, but are on the 'Trail', do you not have problems with the counterpoise becoming tangled up in things, or do you only operate when 'on the trail' while standing still after 'throwing out' the counterpoise? Fascinating stuff this Pedestrian Mobile, but here the local cops would not try to understand. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "Bill Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Thom R LaCosta'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 1:38 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: More Pedestrian KX1's Needed > I have done HF pack dragging an 11 ft counterpoise made of light but very > flexible stranded and insulated wire, and it works great. > > Bill > > K9YEQ > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
