Re: [Elecraft] Kio2 cablength
Since the HIO2 communicates at 4800 baud, 25 feet should work well. for more info see: http://www.connectworld.net/cable-length.html On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 21:18:34 -0400, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi I was wondering if there would be a problem using a 25 foot length of >cable from my K2 to the computer. > 73 and Thanx Sam KF4YOX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Kio2 cablength
Sam, Since the computer to K2 cable carries only RS-232 signals, I should think 25 feet should pose no problem - why not just try it and report the results. It certainly will not break anything if you construct the cable as shown in the KIO2 or KPA100 manuals. However, do not use a standard computer serial cable - IT WILL CAUSE BAD THINGS TO HAPPEN TO YOUR K2 - the cable should have only TXD, RXD, and signal ground lines connected (and the shield at the K2 end), plus the handshaking jumper at the computer end. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi I was wondering if there would be a problem using a 25 foot length of > cable from my K2 to the computer. >73 and Thanx Sam KF4YOX > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.8/37 - Release Date: 7/1/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Kio2 cablength
Hi I was wondering if there would be a problem using a 25 foot length of cable from my K2 to the computer. 73 and Thanx Sam KF4YOX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: FOR SALE K1-4 with Tilt Stand
FOR SALE: K1-4, SN 01785, professionally built for 40, 30, 20, 15 meter bands. Works perfectly, not a scratch on it. In pristine condition, includes KTS-1 tilt stand. $400 shipped to you by USPS Priority Mail. Please reply "OFF LIST" if you are interested. Paul, K5HKX PAUL WEBB [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 - #4970
Hi All, Glad to report that K2 #4970 is alive and well and living in Long Island NY. It took me a month to build it and the SSB, NB, and 160M options. Along the way, I monitored this list, and found answers to several of the things I was wondering about. After a taking a week or so off from radio building, I plan to order a KPA100 and after that, the DSP. 73, John, W2GW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question
In a message dated 04/07/05 19:56:32 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: There are some small charge controllers out there, but a relay configured to open when the battery reaches full charge is the simplest. Reply:-- The problem with using a relay for solar charge control is the current needed to activate the coil of the relay. This could be as high as 100mA and with a charge budget available of only 250mA you would have to select the relay used with care. If a solar charge controller was seen to be necessary I would have thought a solid state version similar to the type Don Brown is making the kit for would have been a safer bet for minimising power losses in the control mechanism (pity these are only available in the USA as I could have used one). The usable solar power available for solar panels is usually calculated at 8hrs per day, though does depend on the seasons further away from the equator. With 8hrs @ 250mA that would equate to 2000mA per day which is the total rating of the NiMH cells being used. The charge needed would depend on the initial state of the batteries and what the consumption of the radio was to offset the available charge. Some device to monitor the battery voltage and an on/off switch would also work as a charge controller in this case at probably even less cost. With regard to the point when full charge is reached with NiMH cells, I was checking out a motorcycle racing ignition pack last week and using a commercial charger built for the purpose, the end voltage for a 6 NiMH pack was 8.40V, which equates to 1.40V per cell. These guys can get exceedingly upset if they are leading a race and the batteries die, so had to ensure that all was OK. The point with this type of cell and many others including gel cells is that the initial voltage at the end of charge is higher than the nominal voltage of individual cells, though the voltage soon droops with use to the nominal voltage of approx 1.20 to 1.25V per cell. This carries on pretty well constant until the battery is almost empty then there is a rapid fall as the battery dies. Under these circumstances using NiMH cells it would be better to maintain the charge to prevent the voltage falling as was recommended. Understand with the earlier NiCADS it was better to take them as far as possible before recharging otherwise cell capacity could reduce. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 - left, right, counter clockwise?
Hi folks - I wonder if somebody can confirm part of the instructions on page 47 of the KPA100 manual. I have the KPA100 connected to my K2. The KPA100 is lying with the heat sink down and the fan to the rear next to my K2. In this position all component labels are upside down. The errata for page 47 says to "touch the left side of R12 (the lead closest to RFC5)". If you were looking at the board with the component levels "right side up" this would be the RIGHT side of R12. SO - this makes me wonder about R6. When the manual says "rotate counter clockwise" does this mean counterclockwise when you are looking at the components from a position where all the component labels are upside down? It seems that it must based on how the left side of R12 is described. What is correct? Thanks for any help! 73/Tim NZ7C ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KX1 Birdie Hell
So, now that I'm back from the beach and it's actually quiet so I can hear stuff ... :) The birdies are everywhere! All bands, every few clicks on the encoder I encounter an audible one, and I suspect there are other above and below my hearing ability. Any KX1 gurus have any ideas on how to troubleshoot? Maybe I lost some decoupling somewhere? de John/W1RT On 6/30/05, John D'Ausilio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Further investigation shows it's only on 20 .. it's definitely the > KX1, as the ATS3 is quiet and doesn't hear any birdies at all ... > > On 6/30/05, John D'Ausilio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Working the fox hunt tonite .. 20 is pretty quiet here at the beach, > > and tuning around I hear weird birdies on specific frequencies. A > > frequency will be clear, and make a 10 hz step and there's a bird > > there. Then, halfway through the test the noise level drops > > considerably and the birdies are everywhere! Something seems to have > > changed .. this is the longest workout my KX1 has had since being born > > earlier this year and maybe there's a bad solder joint somewhere? No > > test equipment at the beach :( > > > > de John/W1RT > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Safari Lion Activator Award
Hello all, Well, Phil wanted it and so here it is the - Safari Lion Activator Award. This award is just gorgeous, but you have to activate ten covered bridges on September 3-4, 2005 to grab this one. In fact you MUST make one HF contact at each of the ten bridges. If you can activate ten covered bridges in one weekend, you deserve this one! Take a look at this beauty at the link below. Make your plans to activate some covered bridges soon and email the ARCBS so you can be added to the list. http://www.arcbs.org/WeekendActivatorCert.html 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARCBS # 1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question
On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've been looking around for this info and throught someone on the list must know: Google on nimh discharge curve for plenty of info 1) What is the full charge voltage for a AA NiMH battery? I'm guessing about 1.275v, since the pack of 8 I just got for my K1 had a starting voltage of 10.2v or thereabouts. That appears to be correct. 2) At what voltage is it recharge time? The pack has dropped to about 9.8v after about 6 hours, seems to be still going strong. Depends, 9V is probably a good point. Also, you don't need to wait for them to be discharged before recharging. Shallower discharges tend to result in longer service life. 3) I have a solar panel that puts out 250ma in full sun. Since these batteries are rated 2000mah, can I just hook the pack up to the solar cell to charge. I've done some reading and that seems to be the conclusion, but somehow it seems too easy. Not recommended. There are some small charge controllers out there, but a relay configured to open when the battery reaches full charge is the simplest. If the rated current on the solar panel is less than 3% of the battery rating you can get away with a direct connect, but this is basically a maintenance charge. Thanks for the help Mike N2HTT Hope that helps, Clark B. Wierda, [EMAIL PROTECTED] N8CBW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 #5000 has a home!
All these "envy" posts about #5000! Gee, maybe it's time for a new bumper sticker. Something along the lines of: "Just put #5000 down in the middle of the room, back away and no one will get hurt!" Anyway, congrats to the happy owner. I looked at the serial tag on my own K2, which read "01108" and was heartened to think that Elecraft is halfway there to rolling over the leading zero! And that's what really counts. Cheers all and Happy 4th. -rick, K7LOG (#01108) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MFJ
MArtin; I have the 1788 Loop. It is great if you do not want to band hop. It has to be constantly retuned especially on the lower bands. If you contest of chase stations it is not th antenna of choice because of the constant re-tuning. 72 Bill N2DH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?
Measure V p-p into an accurate 50 ohm dummy load with a decent o-scope. Power is then V^2/400. At 01:45 PM 7/3/2005, J. Coote wrote... >Comments on the accuracy of using the Tek 492 method, and on other accurate >wattmeter options? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 C45 or C56?
Hi- I have KX1#1194 construction going well, but I can't tell C45 from C56. The manual says to rely on the lead spacing, but both caps' leads have the same spacing of about .1" The manual does say that C45 might be a disc cap, and one of my 68pF caps is indeed a disc, but it says to go by the lead spacing to know for sure, so I'm a little stuck. Can someone check out the picture I took and let me know which one is C45? http://ethicalpaul.com/share/c45.jpg Thank you! Paul, KB8NMZ K2 4818 and now KX1 1194 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Certificates
Hello all, Hello, The ARCBS will sponsor a very special event on September 3-4, 2005. The ARCBS will host the largest "on air" covered bridge event ever attempted in September. Please inform your members about a special ARCBS Weekend Certificate that we will send out for free! Yes, you read it correct FREE! The ARCBS will send out a certificate for contacting a covered bridge. If anyone activates a covered bridge on this weekend, he or she will receive a special "Activator Certificate." The ARCBS will also send out a beautiful SWL certificate. Please go to the link below to look at the certificates and for additional information. http://www.arcbs.org/ARCBScbWeekend.html 73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARCBS # 1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 i-f filter group delays
Hi, all concerned: Has anyone looked at this, and would you share your findings, please? 73, Dave, N3HE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question
I've been looking around for this info and throught someone on the list must know: 1) What is the full charge voltage for a AA NiMH battery? I'm guessing about 1.275v, since the pack of 8 I just got for my K1 had a starting voltage of 10.2v or thereabouts. 2) At what voltage is it recharge time? The pack has dropped to about 9.8v after about 6 hours, seems to be still going strong. 3) I have a solar panel that puts out 250ma in full sun. Since these batteries are rated 2000mah, can I just hook the pack up to the solar cell to charge. I've done some reading and that seems to be the conclusion, but somehow it seems too easy. Thanks for the help Mike N2HTT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Interesting Tuner applet
While a T-network is not necessarily lossy at moderate impedances, try using one to load up a short antenna. For example, a 25 foot end fed wire on 80 meters will show an impedance of about 3-j550 ohms. A T-network tuner will match it okay, but with a loss of 7 dB! That's a loss of about 79% of the RF passing through the tuner. That's why I might T-matching network for moderate mismatches in the vicinity of 50 ohms, but avoid them for wide-range matching of multi-band antennas, most especially any antenna that is less than 1/4 wavelength long. A T-match is good at producing a 1:1 SWR to the rig okay, but so will a dummy load. The Elecraft ATUs, by the way, use an L-network instead of a T. That's a whole different "animal" and a lot more efficient. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Interesting Tuner applet
Daan - Here is the match I get for your problem: Input C 226.6 pF Coil 1.2 uH Output C 174.7 pF SWR 1.0 Percent loss 1.0 dB loss 0.0 (actually this means less than 0.1, teh lowest value the applet shows) It is a bit different than yours and the automatch, but it is low none the less. I get the same automatch that you do. This points out that although a T-match can achieve a non unique match, there usually is not a significant difference in loss in these matches. Here is how I tune a T-match tuner, and the applet as well. 1. Set all controls at maximum. 2. Reduce the inductance untill you see a dip. It might be a shallow dip, or it may be a deep dip, but you should see a dip. 3. Reduce the output cap until you see a dip. 4. Reduce the input cap until you see a dip. 5. Tweak the inductor if the dip is not at 1:1. 6. Go back and tweak the output cap, input cap, and inductor to get to the lowest SWR. 7. If you still have a high SWR, see which control impacts the SWR the most. Turn it one direction off the dip. Tweak the other two controls in turn to get a dip. If the SWR is lower than when you started, turn the initial control in the same direction and tweak the other two controls until you get a new dip. Repeat unitl you get the lowest SWR. If the SWR is higher than before, turn the control in the opposite direction and proceed as above. 8. You may find that only two of the three controls affect the SWR dip. If that is the case, concentrate on those two. This all becomes second nature after doing it several times. I keep a cheat sheet on top of the tuner with the correct settings for each band/antenna combination. That makes band changes quick. You can also use those "Post It" pointers that administrative assistants use to show you where to sign a document to indicate proper settings. I hope that this helps. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5 -- James R. Duffey KK6MC/5 Cedar Crest NM 87008 DM65 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop MFJ 1788
> > does anybody knows the MFJ magnetic loop antenna MFJ 1788? > Hello Martin, I have the MFJ 1786, which is the same antenna as the 1788 except that the range is 10-30m. The range of the 1788 is 15-40m. The loop is formed from heavy-walled aluminum tubing and is welded to the butterfly tuning capacitor to minimize losses. Mine has been out in the Colorado weather for about five years without any noticeable deterioration and the antenna works well. I have used it in both vertical and horizontal orientations with good success. I like the convenience of a single feed-line connection, with the tuning control signal superimposed on the coax, avoiding the need for a separate control line. The built-in cross-needle PWR/SWR meter is a nice touch, too. 73, Gus Hansen / KB0YH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Magnetic Loop MFJ 1788
Dear all, does anybody knows the MFJ magnetic loop antenna MFJ 1788? Regards Martin, DL6KMR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Internal battery question
Charles - A well charged Gel Cell should have a voltage in the neighborhood of 13.2 to 13.8 V. It appears that you did not fully charge the battery, or the battery is incapable of accepting a good charge. Others have pointed this out as well, you need a charger/supply that is capable of of overcoming the Schottky diode voltage drop in the K-2. You might want to try charging the battery out of the K2 to see if it will take a charge and how that will last when reinstalled in tthe K2. The battery in the K2 is a bit undersized for extended QRP use at 5 W. This is exacerbated by the common use of float charging, which does not fully charge a Gel-Cell, or takes forever to do it. The use of a smart charger is recommended. There are some issues with using a smart charger, but they are covered in the technotes area of the Elecraaft site. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/ -- James R. Duffey KK6MC/5 Cedar Crest NM 87008 DM65 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Temperature with KPA100 and XV144
Hi Gerhard, Not an answer I'm afraid, but I recently opened up my KPA100 to try to find the whole answer to the low power out problem. Even though my KPA100 puts out 100w on all bands, I don't like something lurking ready to bite! I immediately noticed that smell as though something had been hot at sometime, and as far as I can tell (sniff) some resistor(s) around T1 was (were) the cause. No visible sign of overheating, and values OK. T1 is OK, the transistors are healthy, the fan runs all the time when power demand is over 11W, and in a pileup the heatsink does get warm but not hot. Sorry I do not have a XV144. 73, Geoff. GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "GS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mailingliste Elecraft" Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 8:08 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Temperature with KPA100 and XV144 > Hi list, > > I have run into some minor problems regarding > temperature rises with the mentioned devices and like > your opinion/solution. > > 1st, the KPA100. I noticed that even when I only > answer some CQs in a contest (CW) the fins get very > hot - of course the little fan fights it. Not to speak > of CQing myself. This is only possible with another > fan on top. (I admit that I didn't dare not using this > additional fan). > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KNB2 non-operation
-Original Message- The problem with checking most noise blanker is generating the necessary test conditions to see if the operation is correct. Most radio equipment manufacturers are rather vague in this respect and I have yet to find a piece of test equipment that will provide interference pulses on demand. The best test signal for the KNB2 is to scratch Q21 or Q22 with a screwdriver. See the archives e.g. http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-05/msg00694.html and http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-10/msg00031.html Good luck and 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Temperature with KPA100 and XV144
Hi list, I have run into some minor problems regarding temperature rises with the mentioned devices and like your opinion/solution. 1st, the KPA100. I noticed that even when I only answer some CQs in a contest (CW) the fins get very hot - of course the little fan fights it. Not to speak of CQing myself. This is only possible with another fan on top. (I admit that I didn't dare not using this additional fan). 2nd, and here it's really bad - or let's say inconvenient at least. The XV144 shuts down after a few CQs in CW at 20W - operating in normal room temperature. Since the cooling is done on the bottom and there are no fins I expect it not to be too easy to cool it. What are your experiences/solutions? What can be done without two additional fans (and wires and weight)? Or can a small fan be added to the XV like in the KPA100? 73 Gerhard ___ Gesendet von Yahoo! Mail - Jetzt mit 1GB Speicher kostenlos - Hier anmelden: http://mail.yahoo.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com