Re: [Elecraft] Kio2 cablength

2005-07-04 Thread Matt Osborn
Since the HIO2 communicates at 4800 baud, 25 feet should work well.

for more info see:

http://www.connectworld.net/cable-length.html



On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 21:18:34 -0400, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi I was wondering if there would be a problem using a 25 foot length of
>cable from my K2 to the computer.
>   73 and Thanx Sam KF4YOX

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RE: [Elecraft] Kio2 cablength

2005-07-04 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Sam,

Since the computer to K2 cable carries only RS-232 signals, I should think
25 feet should pose no problem - why not just try it and report the results.
It certainly will not break anything if you construct the cable as shown in
the KIO2 or KPA100 manuals.

However, do not use a standard computer serial cable - IT WILL CAUSE BAD
THINGS TO HAPPEN TO YOUR K2 - the cable should have only TXD, RXD, and
signal ground lines connected (and the shield at the K2 end), plus the
handshaking jumper at the computer end.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
>  Hi I was wondering if there would be a problem using a 25 foot length of
> cable from my K2 to the computer.
>73 and Thanx Sam KF4YOX
>
>
--
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[Elecraft] Kio2 cablength

2005-07-04 Thread kf4yox


 Hi I was wondering if there would be a problem using a 25 foot length of
cable from my K2 to the computer.
   73 and Thanx Sam KF4YOX

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[Elecraft] FS: FOR SALE K1-4 with Tilt Stand

2005-07-04 Thread Paul Webb
FOR SALE:  K1-4, SN 01785, professionally built for 40, 30, 20, 15 meter
bands.  Works perfectly, not a scratch on it.  In pristine condition,
includes KTS-1 tilt stand.  $400 shipped to you by USPS Priority Mail.
Please reply "OFF LIST" if you are interested.

Paul, K5HKX


PAUL WEBB
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] K2 - #4970

2005-07-04 Thread John Reiser
Hi All,

Glad to report that K2 #4970 is alive and well and living in Long Island NY.  
It took me a month to build it and the SSB, NB, and 160M options.  Along the 
way, I monitored this list, and found answers to several of the things I was 
wondering about.

After a taking a week or so off from radio building, I plan to order a KPA100 
and after that, the DSP.

73,

John, W2GW  
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Re: [Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question

2005-07-04 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 04/07/05 19:56:32 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

There  are some small charge controllers out there, but a 
relay configured to  open when the battery reaches full charge is the  
simplest.


Reply:--
 
The problem with using a relay for solar charge control is the current  
needed to activate the coil of the relay. This could be as high as 100mA and  
with 
a charge budget available of only 250mA you would have to select the relay  
used with care. If a solar charge controller was seen to be necessary I would  
have thought a solid state version similar to the type Don Brown is making the  
kit for would have been a safer bet for minimising power losses in the 
control  mechanism (pity these are only available in the USA as I could have  
used 
one).
 
The usable solar power available for solar panels is usually calculated at  
8hrs per day, though does depend on the seasons further away from the equator.  
With 8hrs @ 250mA that would equate to 2000mA per day which is the total  
rating of the NiMH cells being used. The charge needed would depend on the  
initial state of the batteries and what the consumption of the radio was to  
offset 
the available charge. Some device to monitor the battery voltage and an  
on/off switch would also work as a charge controller in this case at probably  
even less cost.
 
With regard to the point when full charge is reached with NiMH  cells, I was 
checking out a motorcycle racing ignition pack last week and using  a 
commercial charger built for the purpose, the end voltage for a 6 NiMH pack  
was 
8.40V, which equates to 1.40V per cell. These guys can get exceedingly upset  
if 
they are leading a race and the batteries die, so had to ensure that all was  
OK. The point with this type of cell and many others including gel cells is 
that 
 the initial voltage at the end of charge is higher than the nominal  voltage 
of individual cells, though the voltage soon droops with use to the  nominal 
voltage of approx 1.20 to 1.25V per cell. This carries on pretty  well 
constant until the battery is almost empty then there is a rapid fall  as the 
battery 
dies. Under these circumstances using NiMH cells it would be  better to 
maintain the charge to prevent the voltage falling as was recommended.  
Understand 
with the earlier NiCADS it was better to take them as far as possible  before 
recharging otherwise cell capacity could reduce.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] KPA100 - left, right, counter clockwise?

2005-07-04 Thread Tim Logan

Hi folks -
I wonder if somebody can confirm part of the instructions on page 47 of 
the KPA100 manual. I have the KPA100 connected to my K2.  The KPA100 is 
lying with the heat sink down and the fan to the rear next to my K2. In 
this position all component labels are upside down.


The errata for page 47 says to "touch the left side of R12 (the lead 
closest to RFC5)".  If you were looking at the board with the component 
levels "right side up" this would be the RIGHT side of R12.


SO - this makes me wonder about R6. When the manual says "rotate counter 
clockwise" does this mean counterclockwise when you are looking at the 
components from a position where all the component labels are upside 
down? It seems that it must based on how the left side of R12 is 
described. What is correct?


Thanks for any help!
73/Tim NZ7C
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[Elecraft] Re: KX1 Birdie Hell

2005-07-04 Thread John D'Ausilio
So, now that I'm back from the beach and it's actually quiet so I can
hear stuff ... :)

The birdies are everywhere! All bands, every few clicks on the encoder
I encounter an audible one, and I suspect there are other above and
below my hearing ability. Any KX1 gurus have any ideas on how to
troubleshoot? Maybe I lost some decoupling somewhere?

de John/W1RT

On 6/30/05, John D'Ausilio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Further investigation shows it's only on 20 .. it's definitely the
> KX1, as the ATS3 is quiet and doesn't hear any birdies at all ...
> 
> On 6/30/05, John D'Ausilio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Working the fox hunt tonite .. 20 is pretty quiet here at the beach,
> > and tuning around I hear weird birdies on specific frequencies. A
> > frequency will be clear, and make a 10 hz step and there's a bird
> > there. Then, halfway through the test the noise level drops
> > considerably and the birdies are everywhere! Something seems to have
> > changed .. this is the longest workout my KX1 has had since being born
> > earlier this year and maybe there's a bad solder joint somewhere? No
> > test equipment at the beach :(
> >
> > de John/W1RT
> >
>
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[Elecraft] ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Safari Lion Activator Award

2005-07-04 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Well, Phil wanted it and so here it is the - Safari Lion Activator
Award. This award is just gorgeous, but you have to activate ten covered
bridges on September 3-4, 2005 to grab this one. In fact you MUST make
one HF contact at each of the ten bridges. If you can activate ten
covered bridges in one weekend, you deserve this one! Take a look at
this beauty at the link below. Make your plans to activate some covered
bridges soon and email the ARCBS so you can be added to the list.

http://www.arcbs.org/WeekendActivatorCert.html


72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ
ARCBS # 1




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Re: [Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question

2005-07-04 Thread Clark Wierda

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I've been looking around for this info and throught someone on the list must 
know:


Google on nimh discharge curve for plenty of info

1) What is the full charge voltage for a AA NiMH battery? I'm guessing 
about 1.275v, since the pack of 8 I just got for my K1 had a starting 
voltage of 10.2v or thereabouts.


That appears to be correct.

2) At what voltage is it recharge time? The pack has dropped to about 
9.8v after about 6 hours, seems to be still going strong.


Depends, 9V is probably a good point.  Also, you don't need to wait for 
them to be discharged before recharging.  Shallower discharges tend to 
result in longer service life.


3) I have a solar panel that puts out 250ma in full sun. Since these 
batteries are rated 2000mah, can I just hook the pack up to the solar 
cell to charge. I've done some reading and that seems to be the 
conclusion, but somehow it seems too easy.


Not recommended.  There are some small charge controllers out there, but a 
relay configured to open when the battery reaches full charge is the 
simplest.  If the rated current on the solar panel is less than 3% of the 
battery rating you can get away with a direct connect, but this is 
basically a maintenance charge.



Thanks for the help
Mike N2HTT


Hope that helps,

Clark B. Wierda, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
N8CBW


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 #5000 has a home!

2005-07-04 Thread Rick Commo
All these "envy" posts about #5000!  Gee, maybe it's time for a new bumper
sticker.  Something along the lines of:

"Just put #5000 down in the middle of the room, 
back away and no one will get hurt!"

Anyway, congrats to the happy owner.  I looked at the serial tag on my own
K2, which read "01108" and was heartened to think that Elecraft is halfway
there to rolling over the leading zero!  And that's what really counts.

Cheers all and Happy 4th.
-rick, K7LOG (#01108)

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[Elecraft] MFJ

2005-07-04 Thread William E. Twaddell

MArtin;
I have the 1788 Loop. It is great if you do not want to band hop. It has 
to be constantly retuned especially on the lower bands.
If you contest of chase stations it is not th antenna of choice because 
of the constant re-tuning.

72
Bill N2DH
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Re: [Elecraft] Accurate QRP Wattmeters?

2005-07-04 Thread Mike S
Measure V p-p into an accurate 50 ohm dummy load with a decent o-scope. Power 
is then V^2/400.

At 01:45 PM 7/3/2005, J. Coote wrote...
>Comments on the accuracy of using the Tek 492 method, and on other accurate
>wattmeter options?
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[Elecraft] KX1 C45 or C56?

2005-07-04 Thread Paul Bruneau

Hi-

I have KX1#1194 construction going well, but I can't tell C45 from C56.

The manual says to rely on the lead spacing, but both caps' leads have 
the same spacing of about .1"


The manual does say that C45 might be a disc cap, and one of my 68pF 
caps is indeed a disc, but it says to go by the lead spacing to know 
for sure, so I'm a little stuck.


Can someone check out the picture I took and let me know which one is 
C45?


http://ethicalpaul.com/share/c45.jpg

Thank you!

Paul, KB8NMZ
K2 4818 and now KX1 1194
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[Elecraft] ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Certificates

2005-07-04 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Hello,

The ARCBS will sponsor a very special event on September 3-4, 2005. The
ARCBS will host the largest "on air" covered bridge event ever attempted
in September.  Please inform your members about a special ARCBS Weekend
Certificate that we will send out for free!  Yes, you read it correct
FREE!  The ARCBS will send out a certificate for contacting a covered
bridge. If anyone activates a covered bridge on this weekend, he or she
will receive a special "Activator Certificate." The ARCBS will also send
out a beautiful SWL certificate. Please go to the link below to look at
the certificates and for additional information.

http://www.arcbs.org/ARCBScbWeekend.html

73,
Ed, WA3WSJ
ARCBS # 1



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[Elecraft] K2 i-f filter group delays

2005-07-04 Thread David J Windisch

Hi, all concerned:

Has anyone looked at this, and would you share your findings, please?

73, Dave, N3HE
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[Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question

2005-07-04 Thread n2htt
I've been looking around for this info and throught someone on the list must 
know:

1) What is the full charge voltage for a AA NiMH battery? I'm guessing about 
1.275v, since the pack of 8 I just got for my K1 had a starting voltage of 
10.2v or thereabouts.

2) At what voltage is it recharge time? The pack has dropped to about 9.8v 
after about 6 hours, seems to be still going strong.

3) I have a solar panel that puts out  250ma in full sun. Since these batteries 
are rated 2000mah, can I just hook the pack up to the solar cell to charge. 
I've done some reading and that seems to be the conclusion, but somehow it 
seems too easy.

Thanks for the help
Mike N2HTT


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RE: [Elecraft] Interesting Tuner applet

2005-07-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
While a T-network is not necessarily lossy at moderate impedances, try using
one to load up a short antenna. 

For example, a 25 foot end fed wire on 80 meters will show an impedance of
about 3-j550 ohms. A T-network tuner will match it okay, but with a loss of
7 dB! That's a loss of about 79% of the RF passing through the tuner.

That's why I might T-matching network for moderate mismatches in the
vicinity of 50 ohms, but avoid them for wide-range matching of multi-band
antennas, most especially any antenna that is less than 1/4 wavelength long.


A T-match is good at producing a 1:1 SWR to the rig okay, but so will a
dummy load.

The Elecraft ATUs, by the way, use an L-network instead of a T. That's a
whole different "animal" and a lot more efficient. 

Ron AC7AC 


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[Elecraft] Interesting Tuner applet

2005-07-04 Thread James R. Duffey
Daan - Here is the match I get for your problem:

Input C 226.6 pF
Coil 1.2 uH
Output C 174.7 pF

SWR 1.0
Percent loss 1.0
dB loss 0.0 (actually this means less than 0.1, teh lowest value the applet
shows)

It is a bit different than yours and the automatch, but it is low none the
less. I get the same automatch that you do.

This points out that although a T-match can achieve a non unique match,
there usually is not a significant difference in loss in these matches.

Here is how I tune a T-match tuner, and the applet as well.

1. Set all controls at maximum.

2. Reduce the inductance untill you see a dip. It might be a shallow dip, or
it may be a deep dip, but  you should see a dip.

3. Reduce the output cap until you see a dip.

4. Reduce the input cap until you see a dip.

5. Tweak the inductor if the dip is not at 1:1.

6. Go back and tweak the output cap, input cap, and inductor to get to the
lowest SWR.

7. If you still have a high SWR, see which control impacts the SWR the most.
Turn it one direction off the dip. Tweak the other two controls in turn to
get a dip. If the SWR is lower than when you started, turn the initial
control in the same direction and tweak the other two controls until you get
a new dip.  Repeat unitl you get the lowest SWR. If the SWR is higher than
before, turn the control in the opposite direction and proceed as above.

8. You may find that only two of the three controls affect the SWR dip. If
that is the case, concentrate on those two.

This all becomes second nature after doing it several times.

I keep a cheat sheet on top of the tuner with the correct settings for each
band/antenna combination. That makes band changes quick. You can also use
those "Post It" pointers that administrative assistants use to show you
where to sign a document to indicate proper settings.

I hope that this helps. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5

--
James R. Duffey KK6MC/5
Cedar Crest NM 87008 DM65

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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop MFJ 1788

2005-07-04 Thread Augie Hansen

> 
> does anybody knows the MFJ magnetic loop antenna MFJ 1788?
> 

Hello Martin,

I have the MFJ 1786, which is the same antenna as the 1788 except that the
range is 10-30m. The range of the 1788 is 15-40m.

The loop is formed from heavy-walled aluminum tubing and is welded to the
butterfly tuning capacitor to minimize losses. Mine has been out in the
Colorado weather for about five years without any noticeable deterioration
and the antenna works well. I have used it in both vertical and horizontal
orientations with good success.

I like the convenience of a single feed-line connection, with the tuning
control signal superimposed on the coax, avoiding the need for a separate
control line. The built-in cross-needle PWR/SWR meter is a nice touch, too.

73, Gus Hansen / KB0YH

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[Elecraft] Magnetic Loop MFJ 1788

2005-07-04 Thread Renardy, Martin

Dear all,

does anybody knows the MFJ magnetic loop antenna MFJ 1788? 

Regards

Martin, DL6KMR
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[Elecraft] Internal battery question

2005-07-04 Thread James R. Duffey
Charles - A well charged Gel Cell should have a voltage in the neighborhood
of 13.2 to 13.8 V. It appears that you did not fully charge the battery, or
the battery is incapable of accepting a good charge. Others have pointed
this out as well, you need a charger/supply that is capable of of overcoming
the Schottky diode voltage drop in the K-2.

You might want to try charging the battery out of the K2 to see if it will
take a charge and how that will last when reinstalled in tthe K2.

The battery in the K2 is a bit undersized for extended QRP use at 5 W. This
is exacerbated by the common use of float charging, which does not fully
charge a Gel-Cell, or takes forever to do it. The use of a smart charger is
recommended. There are some issues with using a smart charger, but they are
covered in the technotes area of the Elecraaft site. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/
--
James R. Duffey KK6MC/5
Cedar Crest NM 87008 DM65

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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature with KPA100 and XV144

2005-07-04 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Hi Gerhard,

Not an answer I'm afraid, but I recently opened up my KPA100 to try to find
the whole answer to the low power out problem. Even though my KPA100 puts
out 100w on all bands, I don't like something lurking ready to bite! I
immediately noticed that smell as though something had been hot at sometime,
and as far as I can tell (sniff) some resistor(s) around T1 was (were) the
cause. No visible sign of overheating, and values OK. T1 is OK, the
transistors are healthy, the fan runs all the time when power demand is over
11W, and in a pileup the heatsink does get warm but not hot.

Sorry I do not have a XV144.

73,
Geoff.
GM4ESD

- Original Message - 
From: "GS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mailingliste Elecraft" 
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 8:08 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Temperature with KPA100 and XV144


> Hi list,
>
> I have run into some minor problems regarding
> temperature rises with the mentioned devices and like
> your opinion/solution.
>
> 1st, the KPA100. I noticed that even when I only
> answer some CQs in a contest (CW) the fins get very
> hot - of course the little fan fights it. Not to speak
> of CQing myself. This is only possible with another
> fan on top. (I admit that I didn't dare not using this
> additional fan).
>

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RE: [Elecraft] KNB2 non-operation

2005-07-04 Thread Sverre Holm
-Original Message-
The problem with checking most noise blanker is generating the necessary
test conditions to see if the operation is correct. Most radio equipment
manufacturers are rather vague in this respect and I have yet to find a
piece of test equipment that will provide interference pulses on demand. 


The best test signal for the KNB2 is to scratch Q21 or Q22 with a
screwdriver. See the archives e.g. 
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-05/msg00694.html
and
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-10/msg00031.html


Good luck and 73


Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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[Elecraft] Temperature with KPA100 and XV144

2005-07-04 Thread GS
Hi list,

I have run into some minor problems regarding
temperature rises with the mentioned devices and like
your opinion/solution.

1st, the KPA100. I noticed that even when I only
answer some CQs in a contest (CW) the fins get very
hot - of course the little fan fights it. Not to speak
of CQing myself. This is only possible with another
fan on top. (I admit that I didn't dare not using this
additional fan).

2nd, and here it's really bad - or let's say
inconvenient at least. The XV144 shuts down after a
few CQs in CW at 20W - operating in normal room
temperature. Since the cooling is done on the bottom
and there are no fins I expect it not to be too easy
to cool it.

What are your experiences/solutions? What can be done
without two additional fans (and wires and weight)? Or
can a small fan be added to the XV like in the KPA100?

73

Gerhard







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