Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
I'd make sure all the capacitors would be oriented so I could read their markings after installing that relay or inductor next to them. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005, Lee Buller wrote: If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Maybe get the un-modules. Maybe go even faster if I didn't have one to use already. :) Oh, one thing I'd do if I hadn't done it already is to buy the wire brush for my Dremel tool. Sandpapering stuff off of the side of the case was a pain, and getting the anodizing off of the heat sink for the KPA100 was nearly impossible without the Dremel. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
If you plan on future options, I would look at the un-modules from Gary, KI4GGX. http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs.htm They plug in in place of the future modules, and make it easy to plugin the new modules as you build them instead of having to unsolder and remove parts from the K2. It also makes it easier to troubleshoot the new modules since you can easily return to the basic radio. They are quite innexpensive to boot. Larry N8LP Margaret Leber wrote: Lee Buller wrote: If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? I'd buy the KAT2 kit also. :-) Good news: I finally (after four years essentially on the bench (now have a job, and will have the money to buy one, and a KIO2 too. Bad news: I won't have as much building time available as I did this winter. :-) 73 de Maggie K3XS Editor, Phil-Mont Mobile Radio Club Blurb - http://www.phil-mont.org Elecraft K2 #1641 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
Lee Buller wrote: If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? I'd buy the KAT2 kit also. :-) Good news: I finally (after four years essentially on the bench (now have a job, and will have the money to buy one, and a KIO2 too. Bad news: I won't have as much building time available as I did this winter. :-) 73 de Maggie K3XS Editor, Phil-Mont Mobile Radio Club Blurb - http://www.phil-mont.org Elecraft K2 #1641 -- -/___. _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress / /(, /| /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/ ---/ / | / | _ _ _` _ AOPA 925383/ amid change and to / --/ ) / |/ |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_ K3XS / preserve change amid/ -/ (_/ '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/ /(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Speaker Fix (WAS: K2 Speaker Replacement)
A repair for the Elecraft K2 speaker with a rubbing voice coil that worked for me is as follows: Remove the K2 lid and lay it on the bench next to the rig with the speaker connected so you can access the back of the speaker while listening. Enable the sidetone so you hear it in the speaker. It should sound raspy of the voice coil is rubbing. Use a LARGE screwdriver with a wide blade and place it between the edge of the black magnet and the frame. Turn the screwdriver so it wedges between the magnet and the frame. It's a good idea to hold the tip with one hand so you don't poke it into the cone by accident! Apply a little twisting pressure while listening - just enough to move the magnet slightly but not enough to make a permanent bend in the frame. Work your way around the speaker repeating the act with the screwdriver at each frame. Normally at one point the tone will become clear when the pressure moves the voice coil so it's not dragging against the magnet any longer. When you find that point, apply additional pressure on the screwdriver to make a permanent bend in the frame. Work in small steps so you don't go too far. (If you overdo it, you have to do it over again!) You'll know you're FB when the tone stays nice and clear when you remove the screwdriver. The frames of these speakers seem to be made of a lot softer metal than other loudspeakers I've worked with. They're packaged by the manufacturer for shipment so the face of the speaker takes the weight and the magnet is only supported by the frame. I've come to the conclusion that they've probably become bent in shipment when the box or a whole container of them hit the ground hard. Once they're in the K2 they are safe. Or they should be. I fixed my speaker over four years ago when I built my K2 and it's still FB. But then I'm not in the habit of dropping the K2 onto a hard floor . Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
HI ALL. I am basking in the cooler WX here in Fla. compared to what it has been in the Washington, DC area. It is hot but have a nice cool breeze coming off the Tampa Bay and the Gulf... My sisterinlaw lives in Seminole and it would be a nice place to retire... Things happen a little slower. I have my KX1 and Silky Ant. and counterpoise like Lloyd was discribing Hate to have to leave here on this coming Sunday!! I am reading my mail never fear!! Incidently I had my wire antenna strung in in a motel room and had 1.0 SWR on all 3 bands. Listen to Lloyd Achow... It is a good antenna. Paul, in sunny Fla. Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Speaker Replacement
James, Before replacing, it may be that you only knocked it off center of the voice coil. Take out the speaker and view it from all angles. Is the Cone off center? If the thing looks like it is, you might put three fingers and thumb equally around edge of voice coil at narrow end of cone, and push in gently and release. This might restore the centering. If not, you have not lost much time. There is also the possibility that you had such as strong signal that you magnetized part of the frame of the speaker. That is more tricky, but you might use a compass to see if symmetrical positions around the speaker frame circumference the compass needle deflects the same amount. You do this by putting speaker in a circle you have drawn on paper by tracing around the magnet. Now, carefully tie a string onto compass so that you may keep it a defined distance from the framework as you move it to differing positions. Keep string taut between frame and compass for each datapoint. You could record the amplitudes as so many degrees from North, 0 degrees. If you find a very unsymmetrical magnetic field plot, you might as well order a replacement speaker from Elecraft. You might be able to degauss the frame with a VCR tape hand held degausser of the Hockey Puck style that Hi Fi shops used to sell, but you do not want to degauss the permanent magnet at the back of the cone. GL, 73, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fw: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
Proud Owner of #4877 k2 I'd Follow the manual by steps. I'd try not to stay up all night. I'd listen to veteran builders.(Thanks w3fpr) and others. K2ELE is my new Call Got to get all my emails addresses changed russ in tn. $4.95/mo. National Dialup, Anti-Spam, Anti-Virus, 5mb personal web space. 5x faster dialup for only $9.95/mo. No contracts, No fees, No Kidding! See http://www.All2Easy.net for more details! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX-1 Power Output Help?
Jay W6CJ wrote: I am assembling KX1 #1204 and nearly there. While going through the power output tests, I notice that power on 7 MHz is 4 watts, while power on 14 MHz is only 2.5 watts. Watts up with that? I've tried expanding/compressing turns on L1 and L2, T1 as well as changing R11 and R30- plenty of power output, but 14 MHz is consistantly lower output than 7 MHz, whatever I do. Yes, the turns counts on L1, L2 and T1 are correct. I went over the digests and saw people getting consistant output on all bands... Any suggestions or help? -- The design of the output filters dictates that the output on 20 meters will be 0.3 to 0.6 watts below 40 meters (see "40 meter transmitter test" on page 59). Your first statement suggests more difference than that, but then you said, "...plenty of power output, but 14 MHz is consistantly lower output than 7 MHz, whatever I do." Is the difference still more than about 0.6 watts? Expanding the turns on L2 may increase the 20 meter output, but at the cost of harmonic suppression. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX-1 Power Output Help?
Jay W6CJ wrote: I am assembling KX1 #1204 and nearly there. While going through the power output tests, I notice that power on 7 MHz is 4 watts, while power on 14 MHz is only 2.5 watts. Watts up with that? I've tried expanding/compressing turns on L1 and L2, T1 as well as changing R11 and R30- plenty of power output, but 14 MHz is consistantly lower output than 7 MHz, whatever I do. Yes, the turns counts on L1, L2 and T1 are correct. I went over the digests and saw people getting consistant output on all bands... Any suggestions or help? -- The design of the output filters dictates that the output on 20 meters will be 0.3 to 0.6 watts below 40 meters (see "40 meter transmitter test" on page 59). Your first statement suggests more difference than that, but then you said, "...plenty of power output, but 14 MHz is consistantly lower output than 7 MHz, whatever I do." Is the difference still more than about 0.6 watts? Expanding the turns on L2 may increase the 20 meter output, but at the cost of harmonic suppression. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
1- Take more time to build... I have one, I can take my time now. 2- Build module one at a time... take more time. 3- Take more time. 4- Take more time. When building an Elecraft kit, you have good time, and if you want to enjoy it, you must take the time. Time, time, time... Le 05-07-27 à 17:16, Lee Buller a écrit : Elecraftians. If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Lee Buller - K0WA Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody that has some common sense. - Lee Buller ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com == Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ == ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
Lee Buller wrote: Elecraftians. If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Lee Buller - K0WA Probably build, test, and use each module before moving to the rest. K2/100 #4684 has all the modules you can put in it and I built them all at once. I'd build the basic K2, use it for a couple of weeks, add the KPA100, use it for a couple of weeks, add the KSSB, use it for a couple of weeks, and finally the K160RX and KDSP2. -- R. Kevin Stover ACØH K2/100 #4684 Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] QRP Slogan contest
Fellow QRPers, For those of you out there who are wordsmiths, or are quick with a phrase or have wit that is sharp - John Shannon K3WWP is running a QRP slogan contest. But you only have a few days to share your ideas for the ultimate, catchy QRP slogan; as the contest ends as July ends. So please consider visiting http://home.alltel.net/johnshan/ and adding to the quips and quotes that have already been posted. 73 de Larry W2LJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
Lee, 1). Put the KSB2 components on the front panel before mounting the pots on the FP board. 2). Install all option headers as you build the RF Board - I use jumpers in the headers instead of the jumpers on the board - (unmodules would work too). 3) Other than the above, follow all instructions in order. OK, that is how I do it, and I have built many K2s (really havn't counted), so keep in mind I am very familiar with the process - If you feel uncomfortable about your ability to find a problem should it arise, then just do the instructions one at a time just like they are printed in the manual and ignore the way I do it. Yes, the manual is THAT good - it is even better than it was when you built your last K2. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Elecraftians. > > If you were going to build another K2 (and I know > there are many of you who have built quite a few) what > things would you do differently from the first build? > > Lee Buller - K0WA > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.5/58 - Release Date: 7/25/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Antenna Wire
You are preaching the right sermon for the antenna wire, Lloyd. I have the same set up as you and I am in Fla and set up the antenna with the KX1 in a motel room. My SWR was 1.0 on all 3 bands.!! It was a blast after spending all day at Epcot Center!! Paul Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Original Message Follows From: Lloyd Lachow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: List Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 Antenna Wire Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 06:54:32 -0700 (PDT) I use "Silky" wire from the Wireman. Here's the description: 'Invisible' Toughcoat 'Silky' 26 AWG, 19 strand 40% copper-clad steel (OD 0.020") with the same jacket as 531 (Nominal OD, 0.050" including 0.015" jacket, but super small for that 'low profile' antenna or pocket 'weekender' long wire. Weighs less than one pound per 1000 feet! Not recommended for 160 meters. Here's the url: http://thewireman.com/antennap.html and it's number 534. It's great because it doesn't tangle and kink, hence the 'silky' appellation. I use a 24' hunk for my KX1 antenna, and I tinned one end, and tinned a small loop in the other end. I use a 33' piece of hookup wire for a counterpoise/RF ground. I use an old razor handle for a weight, and attach it to the loop end with a twist-tie. The near ends of the ground and ant go into a BNC/binding post adapter. When done, I hold one end of the ant wire in my hand, and wind it quickly and easily around my arm, hand to elbow. Then I make a figure 8 with that big loop, then fold it into a circle half the size of the original loop. I secure that with the twist-tie, leaving the ends of the tie sticking out. Then I wind the ground wire the same way, place it against the ant coil, and use the ends of the ground wire to secure them together on one side, and the same twist tie to secure them together on the other side. I then have a neat, secure coil about 5" in diameter, which is very easy to stow and deploy. This loads well on all three KX1 bands, and I can set it up, have a QSO, and stow it away in just a few minutes, whenever I need a fix. I've worked Europe with this, with the antler hanging out of second-floor windows, or tossed up in a tree. LL/K3ESE Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] update on my KX1 progress
Dave, W5SV wrote: I have incorrectly assessed the difficulty of alignment; in that I am having trouble locating a few tools adequate to the task; the "tuning wands" I am finding here are either too large a diameter (won't fit down in there), or not insulated (and either short to the plated through holes, or couple my body capacitance (not insubstantial by the way), or are made of stuff too soft for the task of torquing those pesky trimmers... and to make matters more frustrating, the pesky trimmers have a high static friction, so that when you do turn them, they twist far more degrees than intended... 2. My 20 M. output is about 2 watts; 40 is about 3.5 watts. Yes, R4 is fully clockwise. supply voltage is at 13.8 Volts. I am suspecting the windings on some toroids, or other form of joy... Hints? --- The page numbers in the manual referenced below are for the Rev B manual, November 3, 2003. TRIMMERS You are absolutely right, the holes giving access to the KX1 trimmers are too small for most alignment tools. That's why a small metal blade screwdriver with an insulated handle is recommended for this adjustment (Page 10 "Tools"). If you don't have an insulated handle on the screwdriver, you'll need to make one by wrapping it with tape (Page 46 first step). One thing not mentioned in the manual is that it is often useful to exercise the trimmers first. That helps reduce any residual "stickiness". Also, some trimmers come from the factory making poor contact between the moving and stationary contacts that can cause an intermittent. Rotating the trimmers a few times will help them 'seat'. They will be fine indefinitely after doing that. Only a few trimmers require "seating" but it turns up from time to time in all the Elecraft rigs. Shorting the signal path to ground won't hurt anything (see the note on page 46), so it's not necessary to wrap tape around the screwdriver where it passes through the board if you have a small enough screwdriver. The last I heard, only the B and B1 rev's of that board have grounded plated-through holes. My KX1 was the second unit built (Wayne's was the first) and I've not see the later boards. Finally, there is some small interaction caused by the metal of the screwdriver that is evident when it is removed, but I found it quite easy to compensate for that, moving the trimmer to one side of the peak and listening for the signal to come back up as I removed the screwdriver as described in the note on page 46. If the signal increases then drops off as the screwdriver is removed, you went too far. Of course, that's true only of the trimmers whose rotors are not grounded. I believe that's only B and B1. 20 METER POWER OUTPUT Yes, check your toroid turns carefully: one turn is when the wire passes through the center. There are no partial turns on a toroid. L1 and L2 must each have 14 turns on a Yellow T37-6 core. Be sure you didn't use the grey ferrite cores by mistake. I have found that adjusting 20A and 20B for best signal-to-noise ratio rather than maximum noise produces more sensitivity and more RF out on 20. The two points are about 1/8 turn apart. Set at maximum noise, my KX1 makes about 3.1 watts on 20 meters and 4.2 watts on 40 meters with a 13.8 vdc supply. That's within spec, but I find that if I adjust 20A and 20B for best S/N (listening to a very weak signal) my 20 meter output rises to 3.8 watts and the 40 meter output is 4.0 watts. This requires a weak signal! I find that the output of the XG1 signal generator, even set for 1 uv output and listening to its second harmonic on 20 meters, is much to strong. I put a short piece of wire in KX1 antenna jack and laid it near the XG1 to produce a suitable weak signal. Too strong of a signal makes it very difficult to hear the true peak or setting for best S/N ratio. Also check the spacing of the turns on L1 and L2, especially T2. They should be as shown in the book (Figure 16, page 40). You might try spacing L2 our a bit wider to increase the 20 meter output. With L1 and L2 set up correctly for best harmonic suppression, you should expect the output on 20 meters to be 0.3 to 0.6 watts below the 40 meter output (see 40 Meter Transmitter Test, page 59). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
Take a little more time and savor the journey. 73, Bob N6WG The Little Station with Attitude -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lee Buller Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 2:16 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again Elecraftians. If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Lee Buller - K0WA Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody that has some common sense. - Lee Buller ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
1. Inventory and safely store all of the parts 2. Spend a bit more time reading and understanding the instructions (luckily my misunderstandings usually were caught before doing any damage) 3. Ordering one much earlier than when I did. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lee Buller Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 9:16 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again Elecraftians. If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Lee Buller - K0WA Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody that has some common sense. - Lee Buller ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
Elecraftians. If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Lee Buller - K0WA Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody that has some common sense. - Lee Buller ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Email while on an expedition - Yes!
Hello all, I always wondered what's all the fuss about WIFI? Well, I just bought a wifi PCMCIA card for my Libretto 110CT ($30) and it works. I just had lunch at a local strip mall and I checked my email and surfed the web while at lunch -cool! The main reason I bought the wifi card was to send and receive email while I'm on a lighthouse or covered bridge activation or expedition. While I'm on my Delaware Lighthouse Tour next week, I'll keep in touch by email. That is at lunch or dinner. I also just purchased a keychain wifi locator device. This wifi stuff is really cool! Now I have to start packing for the trip. Hope to work you from the Overfalls Lightship. http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/Overfalls.html 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARLHS # 983 ARCBS # 1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX-1 Power Output Help?
I am assembling KX1 #1204 and nearly there. While going through the power output tests, I notice that power on 7 MHz is 4 watts, while power on 14 MHz is only 2.5 watts. Watts up with that? I've tried expanding/compressing turns on L1 and L2, T1 as well as changing R11 and R30- plenty of power output, but 14 MHz is consistantly lower output than 7 MHz, whatever I do. Yes, the turns counts on L1, L2 and T1 are correct. I went over the digests and saw people getting consistant output on all bands... Any suggestions or help? Thanks Jay W6CJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] update on my KX1 progress
After being stuck at stage 2 for some time, and pulling my hairs out one at a time, Jim Younce, K4ZM rescued me (in a big way) - Thanks Jim! - and I recently completed the Stage 3 assembly. I would love to report success, but the war is not over... a couple of items stand in the way. 1. Completing the alignment: I have incorrectly assessed the difficulty of alignment; in that I am having trouble locating a few tools adequate to the task; the "tuning wands" I am finding here are either too large a diameter (won't fit down in there), or not insulated (and either short to the plated through holes, or couple my body capacitance (not insubstantial by the way), or are made of stuff too soft for the task of torquing those pesky trimmers... and to make matters more frustrating, the pesky trimmers have a high static friction, so that when you do turn them, they twist far more degrees than intended... So folks, share your secrets of source of said tuning tools... 2. My 20 M. output is about 2 watts; 40 is about 3.5 watts. Yes, R4 is fully clockwise. supply voltage is at 13.8 Volts. I am suspecting the windings on some toroids, or other form of joy... Hints? Looking forward to successful completion and some first QSOs to report... 73 de W5SV, Dave -- David F. Reed - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] TNX Everyone
I wanted to send a quick TNX to everyone at Elecraft and all on this reflector. I recently completed K2 #4842 and all is FB. Great rig. Great experience. Great learning. Great people. A real privilege to be part of this community, and I'm very appreciative. 73 John / K0YQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 internal, in-line power connector for KBT1
I've been asked several times what connectors I used to allow a "quick disconnect" of my KBT1 power connection. So here is the information, for the archive, in case others wish to do similarly. I wanted the setup to be foolproof, in that neither end had exposed contacts when disconnected. So, I used two-conductor AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors, available from Mouser: On the radio side, the wires get terminated in Mouser #571-14803190 free hanging shrouded pin housing. I used Mouser #571-606181 male pins for 18 AWG as the contact. On the battery side, I used Mouser #517-14803180 in-line socket housing, with Mouser #551-606191 female pins as the contact. Mouser has no minimum order and does not mark up their shipping costs. Their website is almost as easy to order from as the Elecraft website! ;-) With a 3 or 4 cm pigtail on the radio side, this connector assembly fits easily in the cabinet, even with the KAT1 and 4-band board. Disclaimer: no Mouser or AMP relationship, etc. The K1/KAT1/KBT1 is a great portable station just as it comes from "The Magic E." When augmented with little improvements like this, it's an even better deal. Steve KZ1X/4 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Antenna Wire
I use "Silky" wire from the Wireman. Here's the description: 'Invisible' Toughcoat 'Silky' 26 AWG, 19 strand 40% copper-clad steel (OD 0.020") with the same jacket as 531 (Nominal OD, 0.050" including 0.015" jacket, but super small for that 'low profile' antenna or pocket 'weekender' long wire. Weighs less than one pound per 1000 feet! Not recommended for 160 meters. Here's the url: http://thewireman.com/antennap.html and it's number 534. It's great because it doesn't tangle and kink, hence the 'silky' appellation. I use a 24' hunk for my KX1 antenna, and I tinned one end, and tinned a small loop in the other end. I use a 33' piece of hookup wire for a counterpoise/RF ground. I use an old razor handle for a weight, and attach it to the loop end with a twist-tie. The near ends of the ground and ant go into a BNC/binding post adapter. When done, I hold one end of the ant wire in my hand, and wind it quickly and easily around my arm, hand to elbow. Then I make a figure 8 with that big loop, then fold it into a circle half the size of the original loop. I secure that with the twist-tie, leaving the ends of the tie sticking out. Then I wind the ground wire the same way, place it against the ant coil, and use the ends of the ground wire to secure them together on one side, and the same twist tie to secure them together on the other side. I then have a neat, secure coil about 5" in diameter, which is very easy to stow and deploy. This loads well on all three KX1 bands, and I can set it up, have a QSO, and stow it away in just a few minutes, whenever I need a fix. I've worked Europe with this, with the antler hanging out of second-floor windows, or tossed up in a tree. LL/K3ESE Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Speaker Replacement
Makes sense to me! Ordering one today.. 73, James Kern KB2FCV -Original Message- From: kevin schuchmann [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 12:38 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Speaker Replacement Hi James, I would order one from Elecraft, it is the one you `must have', it has an output spl of 95 db which is very good efficiency, if you were to replace it with anything else you have to match that number or better or the audio out will be at a lower level for the same volume setting. 73 Kevin WA6FWF - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 9:22 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Speaker Replacement > Well I did it. By accident at field day I overloaded the K2's speaker > with too strong a signal and with the volume accidentally turned up > and I think I blew it out. It sounds like crap now.. yet plugging in > an external speaker sounds just fine. Should I contact Elecraft for a > replacement or is there some speaker that is a 'must have' to replace > the internal one? Thanks, > > James KB2FCV > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with another radio
T1 good only to 20 watts,,,( per spec) Icom 735 good to more than 20 watts. ( i hope) bill But, The Elecraft T1 tuner should do the trick for you. Check it out at www.elecraft.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Yaesu FT-100 knob for sale
Hi All, After ordering an FT-100 main tunig knob for my K2 from Yaesu, based on posts to this reflector, I found that I liked the stock knob just fine. I will sell the new, unused FT-100 knob (with rubber ring) for what I paid, $23.00, including shipping to the lower 48. I will throw in the 1.5 mm hex key that fits the fits the setscrews. If interested, please contact me off the net. 73, John, [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
