RE: [Elecraft] An Interesting Article for Amateur Radio Hikers
Jim, AB0UK wrote: Something that might be of interest to all amateur radio hikers. It might be just the thing for Elecraft's QRP rigs. The link is from the CNN website tonight. http://www.cnn.com/2005/TECH/09/09/backpack.reut/index.html -- Yeah, you get 7 watts if you hump along 85 lbs (38 kg) in the backpack. Hmmm... I don't think I'd have the energy to operate after hauling that load up a mountain. Anybody remember a famous cartoonist of yesteryear named "Rube Goldberg"? He used to come up with these ideas for fun in the comics! It also makes this interesting claim: "Pound for pound, food contains about 100-fold more energy than batteries." Clearly we need a bionic K2. But I can just picture finding the darn thing raiding the 'fridge after a busy evening on the air, or discovering my K2 used the aux i/o computer link to order a family-sized triple pepperoni pizza in the middle of the sweepstakes. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] An Interesting Article for Amateur Radio Hikers
Something that might be of interest to all amateur radio hikers. It might be just the thing for Elecraft's QRP rigs. The link is from the CNN website tonight. http://www.cnn.com/2005/TECH/09/09/backpack.reut/index.html BTW, had about a dozen amateurs over yesterday to do some tower work and every one just "had" to see my K2. Of course, I was happy to oblige them. At least one OM went away shaking his head saying no single conversion radio can be that good. Have fun and enjoy. Jim, AB0UK K2/100 S/N 4787 __ Yahoo! for Good Watch the Hurricane Katrina Shelter From The Storm concert http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/shelter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New owner
I used my K2 to learn code by sending under the TEST mode. Still do that while I am warming up. You could not tell by this evening's net however :( My fist was less than stellar. But I was pounding nails and chainsawing wood this afternoon. Maybe one day the manual labor will cease and I can pound brass all day. Or better yet find a job as a telegrapher somewhere :^) I can dream can't I? Kevin. GL on the rig by the way. You will have fun with it; either listening, practicing, or when you pass element 1 by getting on the air and working a few of us! 73, KJR On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 21:18:47 -0500, Mark Bayern <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks Elecraft for starting the fire burning.and I look forward to being able to USE my K2 once it's built and my license upgraded. You can use the K2 with your current license -- just don't transmit. Mark -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.20/95 - Release Date: 9/9/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New owner
On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 21:18:47 -0500, Mark Bayern <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Thanks Elecraft for starting the fire burning.and I look forward >> to being able to USE my K2 once it's built and my license upgraded. > >You can use the K2 with your current license -- just don't transmit. > Unless you also assemble one or more tranverters. Like you, I'm a technician and built my K2 this summer. I've also built the XV50 6 meter transverter so I could use the K2 both ways! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Net Report for September 11th, 2005
Good Evening All, The net was successful. Folks checked in mostly from the Eastern realms with one from way down in Abilene. I think Dario was testing my ears with his 3 watts though ;) Then Bill checked in from CT and was gone the next instant. Too bad about the QSB. I was hearing a little on my end but was being told of a lot of it from the other end. I was glad we had any propagation at all after all those flares from the sun. Next week I think I may camp out to watch the aurora here in the Pacific Northwest. Ms. P has never seen them so it would be a treat for her. I am from the Midwest where we were much closer to the magnetic north pole. Aurora were common for us. On 14050 kHz at 2300z: KI8JM - Bob - OH - K2 - 3630 K4BEH - Pat - GA - Ten Tec - soon to be running a K2! KG0NL - Philip - MO - ? N9IV - Russ - IN - K2 - 4650 VE3XL - Ric - ON - Ten Tec also - running 100 watts AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 N5QVF - Dario - TX - K2 - 3443 - running at 3 watts. K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152 Thank you all for joining me this evening. It was interesting to see who I could work from which parts of the continent. It appears there will be a few new Elecraft rigs on the air in the not too distant future. Please try them out on the net so we can all copy you and give reports. Mostly it will be a matter of antennas and propagation since the rigs are all the same. It is fun to hear a new one though. If there are any errors in the above list please send me the correction. If you tried to check in but I did not hear you I am sorry. Please try again next week, maybe twenty meters will be recharged after all the flares have ceased. Until then 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.20/95 - Release Date: 9/9/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New owner
> Thanks Elecraft for starting the fire burning.and I look forward > to being able to USE my K2 once it's built and my license upgraded. You can use the K2 with your current license -- just don't transmit. Mark ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 questions?
I've been through the S meter calibration often enough that I can help question 1. Turn the RF Gain to maximum. Turn AGC on Adjust R1 on the control board for a reading on U2 pin 5 of 3.8vdc. (It can actually be 3.6 to 3.8) Turn the AF Gain to any comfortable level. Turn on the XG1 and set to 50uv. Select CAL S HI from the menu. Adjust the VFO until the S meter indicates S-9 Turn off the XG1 and the S meter should drop to zero. Select CAL S LO from the menu. Adjust the VFO until the first bar on the S meter flickers, then back it off until the first bar is off. Turn the XG1 on and the meter should read S-9, turn it off and the S meter should drop to zero. Repeat the CAL adjustments as needed. I've discovered that if either CAL S HI or CAL S LO is severely out of range, that the calibration is difficult to achieve due to flickering. For this reason, it is important to adjust CAL S LO the first time even if the S meter indicated zero (it may be too far past zero) On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 20:44:04 -, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Hi everyone, > >I've got a bunch of dumb questions so please have patients with me! > >1. When doing the S meter cal do you have the 'pre-amp' on or off? 'AGC' >on or off? Why I'm asking is that the meter never seems to respond >correctly. Even when using the 50uv source it's impossible to get an S9. >It's either one segment high or low. > >2. The manual calls for using a second receiver to check your frequency >and audio quality. I don't have access to a second radio and haven't >made any friends with the locals here in the UAE yet. So how can I check >my signal? I've tried asking stations on the air and no one has >responded to my questions yet. I set my frequency using a government >calibrated counter so it might be correct. I set the filters using the >'Spectrogram' (I think that's what it's called) software and a digital >storage scope computer interface. Hopefully they are correct. > >3. When transmitting with SSB my external watt meter only shows 30 or so >watts. It is a cheap MFJ meter that probably only shows average output >and not peak but in CW it shows full power on all the bands. Is this >normal? I've tried the different gain settings and compression ratios. >I'm using the MD-2 microphone from Elecraft. I have noticed I'm having a >very hard time making contact with anyone. I only had 4 contacts during >a contest weekend so no one had time to comment on my signal. I know the >problem might be my 2 dipoles on the roof of the apartment building but >I have nothing else to try right yet. > >Any ideas will be helpful. > >Thanks, >Tom A61/WA7DET >___ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Power supply and KAT100 in EC2 enclosure
Folks, I know this has been discussed before and I am certain someone reported success, but I can't find it. My memory is good, but my retrieval system currently stinks. Has anyone successfully put a switching power supply and a KAT100 in an EC2 enclosure? If so, what power supply was used? 73, Don W3FPR -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 Integration with Computer
Hi, folks: I've finally decided to hook up my two K2s to a Laptop running N1MM contest logging software. The laptop is new, I'm not yet very familiar with N1MM, nor am I exactly sure how one interconnects the rig to the computer. Is there anyone out there who has done that who could contact me off-line and be prepared to do some hand-holding while I go through the process? 73, Gary, VE1RGB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New owner
Well, today I took the plunge. I'm a fairly new No-Code Tech (Dec last year). I am working on my code, slowly but surely. Had wanted to get my ticket since my cousin (K8CCJ) showed me his shack MANY years ago and finely did... Have been working 2m since getting my ticket, but wanted to go farther. Decided to go for the code and thought I would like to get an HF rig to provide a little more motivation. Looked at the Yaesu FT- 857D and it's an ok rig, but really got the bug when I researched the K2. SO, ordered it today with SSB and RS232 options and will add more options as the money allows. Thanks Elecraft for starting the fire burning.and I look forward to being able to USE my K2 once it's built and my license upgraded. Harlan KI4IDA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 questions?
Hi everyone, I've got a bunch of dumb questions so please have patients with me! 1. When doing the S meter cal do you have the 'pre-amp' on or off? 'AGC' on or off? Why I'm asking is that the meter never seems to respond correctly. Even when using the 50uv source it's impossible to get an S9. It's either one segment high or low. 2. The manual calls for using a second receiver to check your frequency and audio quality. I don't have access to a second radio and haven't made any friends with the locals here in the UAE yet. So how can I check my signal? I've tried asking stations on the air and no one has responded to my questions yet. I set my frequency using a government calibrated counter so it might be correct. I set the filters using the 'Spectrogram' (I think that's what it's called) software and a digital storage scope computer interface. Hopefully they are correct. 3. When transmitting with SSB my external watt meter only shows 30 or so watts. It is a cheap MFJ meter that probably only shows average output and not peak but in CW it shows full power on all the bands. Is this normal? I've tried the different gain settings and compression ratios. I'm using the MD-2 microphone from Elecraft. I have noticed I'm having a very hard time making contact with anyone. I only had 4 contacts during a contest weekend so no one had time to comment on my signal. I know the problem might be my 2 dipoles on the roof of the apartment building but I have nothing else to try right yet. Any ideas will be helpful. Thanks, Tom A61/WA7DET ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Loaded KX1 transceiver
Hello all, I have a loaded up KX1 (#599) for sale. It has the 30 meter module, auto antenna tuner, and the paddles. All the manuals are also included as well as a set of Lithium AA batteries that show 9.9 volts. It is in near perfect condition and there are no known problems with the radio. Total kit price is $466. I am asking $375 plus a small amount for shipping. Doug W4DAS K2 #5000 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights
This situation gave me an excuse to try using my Dremel tool for the first time I used a grinding wheel, and was able to reduce the width of the diffuser to spec in about 5 minutes Very cool tool! Now ... time to try to install the upgrade! --- This email message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is proprietary, confidential, and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure, or distribution is prohibited. If you have received this email in error please notify the sender by return email and delete the original message. Please note, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The organization accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email. == ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] increasing the matching range on the KAT1
A very, very simple way to get a match when the tuner can't do it alone is to simply add a capacitance or inductance in series with the antenna "hot lead" right where it connects to the tuner. The inductor can be simply a coil wound using No. 22 to 24 wire on a 35 mm plastic film can or something similar. Punch two holes at the top and two at the bottom to thread the wire through to secure the ends. Every two or three turns, twist the wire to from a tap loop. Use your hobby (Xacto) knife to trim off the insulation for a tap. Of course you can use a toroid core, but if you do use the largest one you have handy. Sometimes high currents flow in the inductor, even at QRP power levels, and a toroid can saturate and become lossy. The beauty of air core coils is that air cannot "saturate". Your only losses in an air-wound coil are ohmic losses in the wire. If you don't have a variable cap (or don't want to take up the space) just use a few fixed caps of various values. Something from 50 to 300 pf is normally what you'll want at HF. One thing to avoid are physically TINY capacitors. Just like the coil, under some conditions the capacitor may have to handle significant RF current. Disc ceramics or larger dipped silver micas are usually FB. If you have some 50 or 100 pf caps, parallel them until the tuner finds a good match. Whether you'll need the inductor or the capacitor depends upon the electrical length of the antenna. If, on the band(s) where you can't get a match, the antenna is less than 1/4 wavelength long, you're sure to need the inductance. Inductance "lengthens" the antenna electrically. If the antenna is close to 1/2 wave or longer on the troublesome band, you'll probably want to use a capacitor in series. That will tend to "shorten" the antenna electrically. For a given antenna, you can usually come up with one capacitor or inductor tap position that lets you tune all the bands automatically. It simply a matter of moving the impedance of the troublesome band back into the range of the tuner. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] backlight length ... and opportunity
Steve, I have not dealt specifically with the backlight assembly, but I have cut many thermoplastics, ranging from small, thin pieces to 4 x 8 sheets of thicker material. I have cut them on my tablesaw, bandsaw, compound sliding miter saw, and a variety of handtools - usually saws. There is one caution that I will offer when using a powered tool - do not linger with the moving blade in contact with the thermoplastic material, it will melt from the heat and attempt to fuse the sawblade to the material being cut, and once that fusing is adequate, the material will break from the force exerted by the blade. One must use a blade that has teeth separated adequately to remove the waste material from the saw kerf repidly, yet teeth spaced close enough together so the uncut material will not fall between 2 teeth and be shattered. A rapidly moving fine pitch saw blade will quickly melt the plastic, so one must either slow the blade motion down or move the material more rapidly. I have used 40 to 60 tooth crosscut woodcutting blades on my 10 inch tablesaw with success, but both the blade depth and the feed rate must be controlled to avoid melting - it will vary with the thickness, often it is wise to make several fast cutting passes of the material with a cool-down break between passes. The exact sawblade tooth spacing must be determined by the thickness of the material to be cut and the angle of attack of the blade on the material (this is a function of the type of blade and machine being used. This problem is not normally encountered with hand tool techniques because the blade moves more slowly, but there is the problem of not having an adequate number of saw teeth in contact with the material at one time (which causes breakage), so with hand tools, a finer blade is usually a better choice. One tool I have found that is not good for cutting thin plastic materials is a saber saw - most woodcutting blades will cause chippage or breakage and the finer metal cutting blades will overheat the material until it sticks to the blade, then it breaks. Sorry I have not given exact information, and my tool model numbers would likely not be beneficial, and the real answer is 'it all depends...' 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Tom N0SS wrote: > > "IF you wish to cut the LED yourself, be aware that > the plastic is pretty brittle, AND pretty hard as > well. So you should probably consider either sawing it > (fine tooth blade) or grinding it (a little at a time) > to length ..." > > Tom: > > My K1 backlight is one of the "extended" 1.41" long > versions. While I see that you've offered to re-cut > this piece to the recommended length, I'm of a > different sort of ham, and respectfully decline your > offer. > > What I'd rather do is to take this opportunity to > learn what tool is best used, and how it is best used, > to cut material of this type. So far, I've heard > general comments such as "razor saw" and so forth. It > isn't so much the cutting itself, but the chance to > work with a material I've not done a lot with before. > It's all about opportunity, and this is a plus, not a > minus. > > Many people have gratefully commented to me over the > years about my blunt specificity about tools. For > example, I have unequivocally stated here and > elsewhere a preference for the Edsyn Soldapullt DS-017 > desoldering tool and cousins ... and that > recommendation is backed up by decades of real-world > experience and more than a few hundred dollars spent > on 'alternatives.' For a handheld, low-cost unit, > this specific model remains without peer. My 1999 > vintage K2 #0771 runs 24x7, and has for years (indeed, > I'd wager it's the K2 with more 'power hours' than any > other in the world), and I am not ashamed to mention > it's seen more than it's share of the business end of > my DS-017. #0771 got to be this good because of the > seasoned constructor who built it AND his tools. > > Now, as for my point: I'd like to know, by brand name > and source, what is (are) the best tool(s) and > blade(s) used to cut whatever thermoplastic the > backlight is made out of, and how that tool is best > used -- and why. I'd also like to know the specific > name of the material itself, so that I might learn > more about the properties of such. > > So prepared, tutored, and equipped, I'll be a better > craftsman. Tom, your so-called 'error' has simply > yielded me an opportunity. And I know that I'm not > the only person reading this that feels the same way. > > 73 Steve KZ1X/4 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribe
[Elecraft] increasing the matching range on the KAT1
I have had great luck with the inexpensive little gizmos sold by KG7RO. http://www.geocities.com/qro_baluns/product.html (standard no-commercial-relationship disclaimers apply) I use one of these (a 6.25:1) or the W1CG 4:1 QRP balun from NJQRP (no longer available as a kit) with my K1 "go kit" and they've been useful when the KAT1 just needs a bit more help in matching range, especially on 40. My KAT100 is hooked up to my home station K2! __ Yahoo! for Good Watch the Hurricane Katrina Shelter From The Storm concert http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/shelter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights
Steve Hostetler wrote: You can cut the LEDs using a very fine tooth straight-back saw you can buy for a few bucks at your local hobby shop. They cut easily and cleanly. The back light is an elegant and much appreciated addition to the K1. steve, kx7r A Dremel with a cutting disk makes short work of it. The light works great. Or, if you're lazy like me, the backlight as supplied fits just nicely when you place the right hand side against the leads of the capacitor (C4?) on the board. Works great and looks great too! 72, Joe, W2RBA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 and antenna
I had been using a 24' piece of wire inside and connecting what should be the counterpoise to the ground in an ac outlet. Of course not the best way to do it. But in two years I have worked 44 states and a few VE stations. Gotten into Europe several times. Eznec tells me that my piece of wire provides mostly high angle radiation on all bands (40,30,20,17 M). I have come up with an antenna idea (thanks K5RP) a one turn loop, 7.6 M horizontal and 2 M vertical fed at the center of a vertical side. Eznec shows low angle (~20°) radiation on all bands. Top wire is 3 M high. It is getting out well on all bands but the KAT1 matching range is limited, SWR on 40 is 3.4:1, other bands are just fine. I want to try some other versions of this antenna. Looking for a Z-match tuner (maybe HFPACKER) to help out. Is Elecraft coming out with something like this? For now the K1 is my only on the air rig. I do not want a QRP only tuner, maybe some day I will get a K2-100. Any Ideas? Ty, W1TF, GA, K1 #1423, 4 W __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (Fwd) CW, Katrina and the Media...(was CW..)
EricaJ and all, Just an idle thought on this subject How about giving credit where credit is due? Approximately how much H&W and FEMA traffic did CNN, ABC, CBS, etc.. actually handle ?? BTW - I am not a 'traffic net' person >>Actually, Craig fingered the reality. The FIRST >>communications out of the affected area were via CNN and >>the major networks who had pre-staged cameras and crews in >>the area. I also presume that the media are considered to be exempt from Mandatory Evacuation (and other) lawful orders... :-\ Dave KK7SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] backlight length ... and opportunity
Tom N0SS wrote: "IF you wish to cut the LED yourself, be aware that the plastic is pretty brittle, AND pretty hard as well. So you should probably consider either sawing it (fine tooth blade) or grinding it (a little at a time) to length ..." Tom: My K1 backlight is one of the "extended" 1.41" long versions. While I see that you've offered to re-cut this piece to the recommended length, I'm of a different sort of ham, and respectfully decline your offer. What I'd rather do is to take this opportunity to learn what tool is best used, and how it is best used, to cut material of this type. So far, I've heard general comments such as "razor saw" and so forth. It isn't so much the cutting itself, but the chance to work with a material I've not done a lot with before. It's all about opportunity, and this is a plus, not a minus. Many people have gratefully commented to me over the years about my blunt specificity about tools. For example, I have unequivocally stated here and elsewhere a preference for the Edsyn Soldapullt DS-017 desoldering tool and cousins ... and that recommendation is backed up by decades of real-world experience and more than a few hundred dollars spent on 'alternatives.' For a handheld, low-cost unit, this specific model remains without peer. My 1999 vintage K2 #0771 runs 24x7, and has for years (indeed, I'd wager it's the K2 with more 'power hours' than any other in the world), and I am not ashamed to mention it's seen more than it's share of the business end of my DS-017. #0771 got to be this good because of the seasoned constructor who built it AND his tools. Now, as for my point: I'd like to know, by brand name and source, what is (are) the best tool(s) and blade(s) used to cut whatever thermoplastic the backlight is made out of, and how that tool is best used -- and why. I'd also like to know the specific name of the material itself, so that I might learn more about the properties of such. So prepared, tutored, and equipped, I'll be a better craftsman. Tom, your so-called 'error' has simply yielded me an opportunity. And I know that I'm not the only person reading this that feels the same way. 73 Steve KZ1X/4 __ Yahoo! for Good Watch the Hurricane Katrina Shelter From The Storm concert http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/shelter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights
You can cut the LEDs using a very fine tooth straight-back saw you can buy for a few bucks at your local hobby shop. They cut easily and cleanly. The back light is an elegant and much appreciated addition to the K1. steve, kx7r A Dremel with a cutting disk makes short work of it. The light works great. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT2 Relay Problem
Do any of the relays operate (click), or is the problem only with the ones on the L-C board? If none of them operate, check that the MCU is properly seated in its socket with no pins either sticking out to the side of the socket or bent under (you should remove the MCU to check for bent under pins). Check the soldering carefully - especially the MCU socket and the pins of P5 and J5. Pin 1 of P5 and J5 are the relay common connection, and if a solder connection is missed there, none of the relays on the L-C board will operate. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I am trying to install my newly built KAT2 into my newly built K2 ... > but have hit a wall. When bringing up the ATU ... L0,L1, L2, ... menu > functions, I am supposed to hear relays click ... but I do not (and my > hearing ain't bad!). I have checked all of the voltages in the > troubleshooting section and they are all within spec. Any suggestions > would be much appreciated! > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/2005 > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Switching Type Supplies with K2
The K2 is no more sensitive the RF hash from a power supply (or other noise producing devices) than other radios. BUT - since the K2 is more sensitive, and can receive lower level signals of any kind, yes it will hear even weaker RF signals - and if the RF hash from a power supply can reach your antenna system, it will be received just like any other signal. A lot does depend on your antenna system - which includes the feedline right down to the transceiver. If your feedline picks up radiation that is generated in the hamshack, any transceiver will receive it just like a signal. The cure is to install a proper feedline that does not radiate (if it does not radiate, it will also not pick up signals) - a proper antenna system will ideally receive only signals that appear at the antenna. Unfortunately, not all antenna systems are perfect in that regard. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi, I was just wondering if the K2 (and other Elecraft rigs) are > sensitive to hash from the newer switching type supplies? > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights
A Dremel with a cutting disk makes short work of it. The light works great. Bob Baxter AA7EQ Walnut Ridge, Ar. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Switching Type Supplies with K2
Hi, I was just wondering if the K2 (and other Elecraft rigs) are sensitive to hash from the newer switching type supplies? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights
I would only like to add, if your LED backlight still has the masking tape on it from the original cut, leave it on. If it isn't there, wrap a piece around the end you are cutting. This keeps the translucent covers in place on the plastic so they will cut cleanly with the plastic. If you have a razor saw, it's probably easier to recut it yourself than take Tom up on his generous offer. It is hard plastic, but it only takes about a minute to cut it by hand. Hold the backlight flat against a piece of wood for support. It may be brittle, but it isn't all that fragile. It's easy to fix, and move on with the installation. When all the dust settles, Tom's backlight mod is really clean looking and will be much appreciate by K1 owners. I'm very happy with mine. Eric KE6US www.ke6dus.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hammond Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 8:50 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights Folks: It appears that my error in cutting the backlights for the K1 LED was NOT limited to a single LED backlight... I apparently mis-measured all of them, making each about 0.15" too long. Though the linger backlight CAN be made to fit and work as-is, it's really a bit too long to fit easily and would also make the soldering a bit more difficult. I know that Elecraft has already sent out about 40-50 of these kits without knowing I'd made this error. In order to fix this error, I will be HAPPY to re-cut ANY LED backlight you would send directly to me, and I'll get it in the next day's mail back to you, of course, at no charge. I have already offered to re-cut all of the LED's Elecraft now has on hand, to remove the 0.15" excess length. The LED backlight SHOULD be 1-1/4" (1.25") long, rather than the 1.4" to which they were cut. IF you wish to cut the LED yourself, be aware that the plastic is pretty brittle, AND pretty hard as well. So you should probably consider either sawing it (fine tooth blade) or grinding it (a little at a time) to length... Otherwise, PLEASE consider sending the LED to me and I'll be happy to trim it for you. Please know that this error is NOT the fault of Elecraft, who placed their trust in me, and I botched that trust. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS 5417 Scruggs Stn Rd Lohman MO 65053 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
