Re: [Elecraft] Two Band Moxon/wire beam
W1CG continued: To answer your question, I am using stranded, silver plated, teflon insulated #16 wire. It is plenty strong. I have a 3/16" Dacron line between the two poles to take the strain off the wires. This also decreases the vertical bend and completely eliminates the horizontal bend of the two poles. Presumably you know the dielectric constant of that insulation, verified that the wire you have is in the same neighborhood & done all your modelling based on that figure? If so, then you can see how ground dominates & if not, then between both ground & insulation your elements are nowhere near where you think they are. (To review, the antenna is a 40 meter Moxon wire beam with a 2 element 20 wire meter beam inside. There are two supports, 22' long fiberglass poles at each end, spaced 45 '. There are two feed lines.) We put the antenna up today for our annual special event at for the Harvest Faire at the Norman Bird Sanctuary in Middletown, RI for this weekend. Listen for us on 20 and 40. Call is W1SYE, Newport County Radio Club. (See Sept QST, special events). The antenna is about 30' high on one end and about 25' on the other, from a portable mast to a tree. The Fo and Zo is not much different from what it was at 21'. Fo is about 14.00/7.00 MHZ . SWR is 1:1, 50 ohms on both bands per MFJ 159B. 2:1 band width is (top frequency) 14.4 MHz and 7.25 MHz resp. I still want to move it up to 14.2 and 7.25 MHz. It's a very nice beam; doesn't sag much and it is easy to erect. The weight is about 18# which includes everything supported. Not many 2-element 40m beams that can be robust & only weigh that much - not to mention less wingspan & far better F/R than a yagi. The feed lines are two lengths of double shielded RG-58 (TRF-58). I am going to try simultaneous operation on 40 and 20 using 20 and 40 meter bandpass filters by Array Solutions. The 40M filter has an insertion loss of 70 dB on 14 MHz and the 20M filter has an insertion loss of 35 dB on 7 MHz. I will use my K2/100 with a LDG Z-11 tuner and the club's Ten Tec Jupiter with its LDG tuner. I will try my other K2 with KAT2 in case the Jupiter overloads on receive. I don't know how this will work out. Calculations say it won't work at 100 watts as there is not enough attenuation, but I will try it and report results. There must be some power level of the transmitters that will work. It would be handy for field day, but if it doesn't work we will just have to put the second transceiver on 80 meters using another antenna. Or else use separate receiving antennas. The K2 with the KAT2 can do this; I don't know about a K2/100 with a KAT100. Maybe someone can enlighten me. With two 400 watt rigs into two bands of a tribander simultaneously, those filters will work - though without stubs the 2nd harmonic of the 40m station will render some number of dozens of kilocycles on the higher band useless. Be sure to decouple the feeders at the feedpoints, too. Look at how each driver looks as you connect, disconnect or short the far end of the feeder to the other driver. I would imagine that your antenna probably has the two bands' drivers electrically closer & therefore you will have far greater interaction between the two bands than on my tribander. Hairpins seem to work pretty good on that, but that means more trimming. Anyway, I think the key point is the wire & like I said about my bare wire Moxon, there's a bit of mucking about in practice to get it to work. I would not make another Moxon unless I'm exactly duplicating something else (right down to the wire) - otherwise both elements need trimming & WA1X's approach (I think it was) is probably the best way to go about it. Enjoy! 73, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PS wanted
Hi Folks, I am in need of a small Astron or similar Power supply for my K1 upto 4 amp would be good or an HW9 PS would be welcome too. Please reply direct, and state price and condition.Thanks, John KF7OM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Building time for a KPA100
I'm giving some thought to building the KPA100 in the separate enclosure. Can someone give me an idea on how long it would take to build? I realize that this is very subjective, but I'd like to get a general idea, say relative to building a basic K2. Thanks Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 -- Original message -- From: "Craig Rairdin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > The KAT100 is a quick build and needs the I/O with the KPA100 for testing. > Do the KPA100 first. Once that's done and tested the KAT100 will go quickly. > > Craig > NZ0R > K1 #1966 > K2/100 #4941 > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Miller > Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 7:04 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] Build Order: KPA100 & KAT100-1 ? > > > I presently have a K2 with KAT2 internal tuner. I do not have a KIO2 > installed. I've just purchased the 100 watt amp and external tuner. My > question is which order I should build and test these two units: KAT100 > first but no way to communicate with it to test it, or KPA100 first with no > way to use it except for a dummy load? If I build the tuner first is there a > way to "tap in" to the K2 enough to get the required communication signals > to check the tuner out? > Any suggestions from the group? > Thanks, > Craig K3OOL > K2 4790, KSB2 KAT2 KDSP2 > (KAT100, KPA100) > (Does the xyl know this??) > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] External freq counter in action !
I add to day an external frequency counter connector on an unsed hole in back on my K2. I am now able to use the internal frequency counter of the K2 for calibrate my antenna dipper built later this week far better than listening to CW to find the proper frequency value... When you are out during outdoor experimentation, why carry more tools when your K2 already offer it !! ;-) See the integration and all the action between the K2 and the Tenna Dipper at... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum48.html 73 = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z [EMAIL PROTECTED] \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Phillips Screws
Will reply to the topic of corrosion with chassis screws on this thread. The reply from John, G4BOU on the subject of lubricating chassis screws to help prevent corrosion was: < 'petroleum jelly' despite being a very good insulator has a lubrication factor of 1 and any pressure (via the screw threads) will break through the skin and make good contact. It will of course also cover the joint and limit corrosion.> It sticks in my mind there was some controversy with the use of petroleum jelly for use in preventing corrosion on lead acid battery terminals as it was reputed to be hygroscopic, i.e. attracts water. This may not be a good property for preventing corrosion on screw threads as it may even make the effect worse. Perhaps somebody on the list who is more expert on the chemistry could comment. Must admit however to filling the high gain UHF 8 stack antenna connection boxes on a Cable TV head end to the brim with the same petroleum jelly to prevent moisture entry in 1971 and that never ever suffered over many years in what is reputed to be the wettest area in England. (the true rainfall figure may have been inflated by small boys assisting in the collection data by adding a certain yellow colored liquid) Really all of this is academic as the biggest cause of non conductivity with the chassis screws must be the coating on the outside of the case panels. This must be quite a good insulator and no way would I for one want to try removing it to ensure a good metallic contact. The inside of the case is a different matter and consequently with case bonding the connectivity must rely on pressure between the inner of the case and the chassis 2D fastener, not the screw thread directly. The problems that come up with trashing the Phillips screw head is usually made worse by using the wrong type of Phillips driver. There must be a wide variety of types internationally to compound the issue. In the UK we seem to have two types. The earlier Phillips British type which still appears in instrument screws and has a quite sharp pointed shallow angle tip. The current usage is with what is referred to as the "Posidriv" type which has an almost square end with a slight dome on the tip and has a much wider angle on the tip blades. Equivalent screws to this are used commonly on Japanese equipment and are marked with a single dot on the screw head. Using one of the earlier Phillips drivers on these screws is a recipe for disaster. With the Stanley drivers we buy here, the Phillips has a red plastic handle and the Posidriv has a blue one to easily identify the type. The K2 case screws seem to fit my Phillips British type driver better and even using a small Posidriv driver with a no.1 point would soon trash the heads due to the poor fit. May be different with Phillips drivers available in other countries. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2: Update on 160 problem and looking for some help withK2IO
Jess, The -24 volts on U4 pin 5 is within the range permitted by the RS232 standard and should be OK. The RS232 signalling voltages are stated as: "Signal State Voltage Assignments - Voltages of -3v to -25v with respect to signal ground (pin 7) are considered logic '1' (the marking condition), whereas voltages of +3v to +25v are considered logic '0' (the spacing condition). The range of voltages between -3v and +3v is considered a transition region for which a signal state is not assigned." >From your voltage measurements, I can detect nothing really bad, but it is difficult to tell just from DC and AC voltage readings. You really need a 'scope on the TXD and RXD signals (U4 pins 5 and 6) to know for certain. To determine proper operation, we must know if the dynamic signals ever get above the +3 volt level (and they will only be there for the duration of a bit time). AC measurements will only be meaningful if the data stream is known. The fact that you have an AC component on the signalling lines is an indicator that they have a possibility for working. One thing that may help you is knowing the source (and direction) of each of the signals - the computer port sources the TXD signal and will determine the levels at U4 pin 6 ,The KPA100 I/O port only reads this line level and provides it as a TTL compatible level (<0.8 volts and >2.0v). The RXD signal is sourced by KPA100 U4 (in response to the TTL level input at pin 12) and appears as an RS232 level at U4 pin 5. You may have a problem with your computer port. Have you tried another computer? Some (particularly laptops) do not rigidly adhere to the RS232 switching levels, and will work in most cases, but not all. To simplify things, use Hyperterminal (or equivalent) to provide predictable data streams for debugging rather than attempting to use a logging or rig control program which has a variety of data streams. Again, a 'scope may be the only good tool to use in determining whether the RS-232 levels are correct. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > On the K2IO problem. > Here are some voltage measurements that I took. I am not sure that the > measurements are correct. I am also looking at the schematic for the K2IO > section of the KPA 100. The /K2TX and /K2RX look ok at pin 11 and > 12 of U4, > the MAX1406. However I am not sure of the voltage at pin 5 and 6 outputs. > Could someone clue me in to what the voltages measure on a KPA 100 that is > working or a K2IO? I have pinged Gary Surrency on this and am waiting for > his reply. > > > On pin 11 and 12 going into the MAX1406 from the K2, I measure 5V when > static. I measure -24 VDC on pin 5 and 0 VDC on pin 6 when static. This is > with no serial cable connected and the port option turned off. I am pretty > sure that the -24 on pin 5 is not good. > > With the port on and the serial cable connected, I get -5.39 VDC on pin 6 > and -24 VDC on pin 5. I have 4.96 VDC on 11 and 12. This is on U4, the MAX > 1402. I also get the same measurements at the AUXIO port on either side of > the inductors, so I know that they are not open or shorted. It is > also worth > noting that pin 8, the High Voltage Bias Supply is also at -24VDC. This is > the only source getting on to pin 5 that I can find. > > When I activate the K24U program, the voltage change. I get 3 VDC and 2.5 > VAC on pin 11. I also get about the same on pin 12, so it looks like the > levels coming from /K2TX and /K2RX are good. I get 3.6 VDC and > about 3.1 AC > on pin 6. BUT I get -9.86 VDC and 17.8 VAC on pin 5. This would > indicate to > me that the voltage on pin 5 is way too high and that is why I can send > commands to the K2 and get them to work most of the time, and not get any > receive data at the PC. The commands that I send from the PC only > work part > of the time. I have to send and resend to get the rig to do anything. I am > also not getting any receive data as far as the displays, VFO, nothing. I > have checked all of the cables, wires, inductors at RFC6,7 and 8. > I get the > same voltage measurements at either side of the chokes mentioned. They all > check good with an ohmmeter, so I am assuming that since the voltage is > being passed to the serial connector on the output side that all is well. > > I get 6M Ohm to ground at pin 5, 2.5M ohm to ground at 6. I have > 2.87 M ohm > to ground at pin 8 and 10M ohm between pin 5 and 8, so it does not really > look shorted to me internally. > > If someone could measure the voltages on a working unit, that would really > help me at this point. > > > Jess AE0CW > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help
[Elecraft] TenTec & SEDCO UT Football Home Game
Hi Steve, Yes, I've checked and there is a home game at UTKnoxville on Saturday. MidDay and postgame traffic through KTown will be slow heading in on I-40. This coupled with bridge and road construction bottlenecks should be considered when travelling. I'm heading to Blaine tonight, and there won't be much fooball traffic at 5AM Saturday morning. Weather is chilly too. Great for burying radials! hihi 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Build Order: KPA100 & KAT100-1 ?
Craig, Build the KPA100 first (you can use it immediately with a dummy load or a resonant antenna or any pre-tuned antenna). If you build the KAT100 first, you will not be able to test it nor align the wattmeter until you complete the KPA100 anyway, so it will just sit there waiting. It should only take a few evenings to build the KAT100. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I presently have a K2 with KAT2 internal tuner. I do not have a KIO2 > installed. I've just purchased the 100 watt amp and external tuner. My > question is which order I should build and test these two units: KAT100 > first but no way to communicate with it to test it, or KPA100 > first with no > way to use it except for a dummy load? If I build the tuner first > is there a > way to "tap in" to the K2 enough to get the required communication signals > to check the tuner out? > Any suggestions from the group? > Thanks, > Craig K3OOL > K2 4790, KSB2 KAT2 KDSP2 > (KAT100, KPA100) > (Does the xyl know this??) > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.8/113 - Release Date: 9/27/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Speaker
Check the wiring of the speaker connector coming from the top cover...It plugs into P5 in the right front corner of the RF board...If the wires in this connector are reversed, the speaker will be shorted out when the cover is put in place and the screws are tightened down... I once had a K2 in for upgrade and when the last screw in the top cover was inserted and tightened down, the speaker cut out...Backing it off a tad restored audio...The speaker connector was wired backwards...I have no idea why the fault did not show up sooner, but it is obvious that the cover screws do not always make good electrical contact... Jerry, wa2dkg >Recently I learned how important electrical contact at these screw points is. I had low speaker output and I thought the band conditions were the reason. I noticed at some point that in picking the K2 up from the left side, the volume increased and the leftmost LED on the signal strength meter disappeared. I removed the bottom panel and on screwing it back with power applied, turning the screw created electrical noise. I worked it back and forth until the noise disappeared and now the K2 is much more sensitive and louder. With no other K2 to compare, I hadn't realised there was a problem.< ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Build Order: KPA100 & KAT100-1 ?
The KAT100 is a quick build and needs the I/O with the KPA100 for testing. Do the KPA100 first. Once that's done and tested the KAT100 will go quickly. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2/100 #4941 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Miller Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 7:04 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Build Order: KPA100 & KAT100-1 ? I presently have a K2 with KAT2 internal tuner. I do not have a KIO2 installed. I've just purchased the 100 watt amp and external tuner. My question is which order I should build and test these two units: KAT100 first but no way to communicate with it to test it, or KPA100 first with no way to use it except for a dummy load? If I build the tuner first is there a way to "tap in" to the K2 enough to get the required communication signals to check the tuner out? Any suggestions from the group? Thanks, Craig K3OOL K2 4790, KSB2 KAT2 KDSP2 (KAT100, KPA100) (Does the xyl know this??) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solder
When lead/tin solder is outlawed, only outlaws will have solder. Allen KA5N ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Build Order: KPA100 & KAT100-1 ?
I presently have a K2 with KAT2 internal tuner. I do not have a KIO2 installed. I've just purchased the 100 watt amp and external tuner. My question is which order I should build and test these two units: KAT100 first but no way to communicate with it to test it, or KPA100 first with no way to use it except for a dummy load? If I build the tuner first is there a way to "tap in" to the K2 enough to get the required communication signals to check the tuner out? Any suggestions from the group? Thanks, Craig K3OOL K2 4790, KSB2 KAT2 KDSP2 (KAT100, KPA100) (Does the xyl know this??) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k2 and transverters for sale
Hi Guys, I have a fully built and tested k2 SN 03890 with 100w and NB module with xv50 and xv 144 transverters for sale. I am based in Dublin so I guess this may be of interest to EU hams. I am looking for 1200 euro for rig and 200 euro each for the transverters Please email me if genuinely interested, tony(at)satellite.ie . Hope you dont mind me mentioning I also have an ICOM 756 pro for sale. 73 Ei7BMB Regards Tony Moore Phone 01 452 6039 086 260 7864 Shop at www.satellite.ie E mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] Satellite.ie 3 Deselby Close Tallaght Dublin 24 VAT No: IE3864265K The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential. It is intended for the named recipient only. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager or the sender immediately and do not disclose the contents to any one or make copies -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/115 - Release Date: 29/09/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
