Re: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?
Thanks to you and all who have replied. Due to Elecraft's modular design I could always buy this later - but for $219 I would probably buy at the same time. [1] Does the DSP2 add significant extra current drain in RX? This is an important criteria as I'll be using batteries / solar cells and will have up to 6 AH of battery with me (2 x 3AH). [2] Would the T1 be OK with the basic K2 (I assume so)? Hope to have K1 finished late next week so K2 would be a Christmas / New Year project. I will look for extra / larger batteries at Friedrichshafen 2006 but my 2 x Ni-MH 3 AH are very good and light. I would like to be able to use my IC-703 portable but it requires up to 600 mA on receive. Simon Brown --- www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch - Original Message - From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello Simon I think the KDSP2 is beneficial under all conditions. It provides three features, any one of which can be important at a given moment. The most obvious one is audio filtering, supplementing the internal crystal filter. The next obvious feature is Noise Reduction, not necessarily a problem in the field, but it could be. The final feature, not always recognized, is a small amount of additional audio gain when DSP is engaged. It is set during the setup process, and can compensate for audio level lost in narrower bandwidths. I have my KDSP2 engaged when I'm out on our annual ARRL Field Day every year. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 5149 is alive
Morning Jim, From what I have read on the Reflector, there seems to be some disagreement as to whether the Heil HC5 (and HC4?) element can or cannot drive the K2 to full RF output!! Here I use the Heil Pro-Set Plus boom mike with HC4 and HC5 elements directly driving my K2/100 #3255 without an external preamplifier. From day one I have had no difficulty in getting the 100w output, measured with a calibrated 50 ohm load and scope, on all bands - no shouting. Likewise the full specified output from the K2 alone. I have not incorporated any of the mods published since I built the K2, which means that the 'original' bandwidth of the KSB2's filter is in use, and I don't intend to change this. I swept the filter to choose the BFO frequency(s). It could be that the components in my K2/100 are all at the 'right' value in their tolerance ranges for higher gain, but I doubt that - although I was lucky with the 6 inductive resistors that affect the gain of the KPA100. The gain dip in mine was between bands, but it did not prevent the KPA100 from producing the 100w on all bands. Hope that this helps. 73, Geoff GM4ESD P.S. I am not employed by Heil! Jim Faulkner, K5ZED, wrote on Tuesday, November 22, 2005 at 05:54 AM Good evening everyone, This is my first post to the list, and I have what I hope is not a stupid question. I just finished my K2, #5149. With the exception of a missed solder joint on the thermistor board, and my brutalizing the tiny in-line choke on the bottom of the RF board, the rig came to life, and appears to be performing as expected. With just a crummy hunk of wire, that I literally threw on the living room floor, I am truly amazed at what I can hear. I have just finished building and installing the SSB mod, and I would like to use my Heil BM-10, with the HC5 element. Does anyone have any experience using this (or a similar) set-up, and if so, could you please share any details? I notice that the Heil set that Elecraft sells requires a resistor on connector P1, but I also see a reference to a Heil pre-amp in the tech notes section of the site. Thanks in advance 73, Jim Faulkner K5ZED Rio Rancho, NM. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SSB with K2 [was KPA100 stripped final's screw removal]
I think many Elekrafters enjoy CW because the radios (K1, KX1, K2) have such nice characteristics as CW rigs I can understand people preferring CW because of having CW Rigs and vice versa but if it is reaching a point of ejecting/rejecting others for not having the same preferences then we have got a problem. I think most will welcome you here, and the cw / ssb rivalry is all in fun (or so it seems to me). I just hope it is. Otherwise I'd really be disappointed. So what antenna(s) are you using with your K2, and what bands are you using it most on? I have got a 4-band inverted-V on 10, 20, 40 and 80 meters about 20 meters off the ground. I managed to get SWRs less than 1.2 on all bands after struggling for a few weeks on the roof of our apartment block. It seems it was worth the trouble. Although my QTH is blocked by a nearby hill in the East and another nearish hill in the North, I have worked quite a few countries with less than 8 Watts. (My rig does not go above 7.1 to 7.3 Watts, giving a Hi Cur warning. I just hope this is normal. Cal Cur is set at 3.5 Ampers) When I could hear the stations early enough, I have managed to contact a few Japanese stations, too. When I am little late, my signals get lost in the pileup. The European DX Net organized by I2ZGC, Gianni helped me make contact with a few North African stations but I could not hear/get heard by stations in South Africa nor Indonesia. I sometimes hear a few North American stations early in the morning but even then they are very weak most of the time. I work on 40 and 80 meters at night and 20 meters during the day, mostly. I could not hear anyone on 10 meters so far. It seems to be very quite in this part of the world. Perhaps I just wonder around the wrong frequencies or just at the wrong time. I cannot go in the air very often because of work load during the week and because of XYL QRM at weekends but I try to join contests whenever I can. It is great fun. I am now looking forward to the European QSO Party. If we can manage the contacts properly, an SSB version might start soon. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: WA3WSJ: K6XX CW Tuning Kit
Put me on the list ( 1 K2) Jerry , N2UZ Subject: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: K6XX CW Tuning Kit Hello all, It looks like the group buy is on! I have received 14 orders this morning so here's who is in on the group buy to date: KT5XS: 2ea. K1K2 built WB3AAL:2ea. K1K2 PA2AM: 2ea. KX1K2 W4GNS: 2ea. K1 W7RDP: 2ea. K1 M0BMN: 3ea. K1,K1,K2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Actual power out and the WM-2
Hi everyone, I have been enjoying my K1-4 immensely for many months now, and am getting ready to build the KAT-1. But I decided to build my OHR WM-2 first, so as to get a good idea of how the antenna tuner is actually performing. Well, the meter went together on a Sunday afternoon/evening very nicely, but there is one thing I noticed. My K1 goes from 100 mW to about 7.1 W according to the front panel display (of the K1). Now, when I look at the power out on the meter, I see good agreement with that from around say 2 watts to about 5 watts. But at the low and high end, the meter reads high. Approximately 300 mW when the radio says 100 mW, and about 6 watts when the radio says 5 watts. At the top end, the difference is even a little worse, approx 8.5 watts on the WM-2 when the K1 says 7 watts. Yes, I definitely checked and re-checked the calibration of the meter according to the manufacturer's instructions. It occurred to me that maybe there is nothing really wrong, and that the K1 is just delivering more than it indicates at those levels. My years of training and experience in electronics tells me that that is probably not the case. The news is NEVER good. I am certain many of you use the WM-2 with your K1's, so certainly someone must have some info on this. And the bad news is...? VinKR2F K1 s/n: 1977 Vin Mount Tremper, NY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Actual power out and the WM-2
You don't mention the quality of the dummy load on the end of the K1 and/or WM-2. It really matters. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip But at the low and high end, the meter reads high. /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Actual power out and the WM-2
Vin, What you are observing at the low end is differences in the diode characteristics. The WM-2 has a diode compensation circuit which attempt to correct the readings at low power levels while the KAT1 does not - so the WM-2 is likely more correct at the low end The difference at the high end does not have such a straightforward and easy answer. You might look into your dummy load, the length of coax between the KAT1 and the WM-2 and various other factors for the answer. Try another band, you could find the difference is frequency dependent too. If you have a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load (check it with an antenna analyzer to be certain), you can read the RF voltage across the dummy load with a calibrated 'scope or an RF probe and calculate the power. This method is quite accurate (better than most wattmeters), but is highly dependent on the accuracy of the dummy load. BTW - I do not perceive anything really bad here - just inaccuracies. Equate that to the man with two watches - he never knew what time it was G. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have been enjoying my K1-4 immensely for many months now, and am getting ready to build the KAT-1. But I decided to build my OHR WM-2 first, so as to get a good idea of how the antenna tuner is actually performing. Well, the meter went together on a Sunday afternoon/evening very nicely, but there is one thing I noticed. My K1 goes from 100 mW to about 7.1 W according to the front panel display (of the K1). Now, when I look at the power out on the meter, I see good agreement with that from around say 2 watts to about 5 watts. But at the low and high end, the meter reads high. Approximately 300 mW when the radio says 100 mW, and about 6 watts when the radio says 5 watts. At the top end, the difference is even a little worse, approx 8.5 watts on the WM-2 when the K1 says 7 watts. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 stripped final's screw removal
Hi I believe the screws loosen due to the thermal pads compressing not the screws backing off. The lock washers should prevent the screws from backing off and locktite may make the screws impossible to remove. Once the pads are fully compressed the screws should not loosen, but it may take a couple of times at 10-20 hour operation intervals to fully compress the pads. These pads are not insulators, they are for heat transfer only and they have a coating that slightly melts under high temperature. This coating fills all of the gaps under heat and compression and forms a good thermal path to the heatsink. Sears sells a small kit of stripped screw removal tools. These tools bite into the head of a stripped screw making it easy to remove. Screwdrivers will ware out and start slipping in the slots. Mt favorite screwdriver is a magnetic hand tool that holds the bits for power drivers. These bits are much harder than most standard screwdrivers and can be easily swapped out if they are worn. The magnet also holds the screw for starting or removing and the handle of the screwdriver holds several different bits. The handle of this screwdriver locks or it can ratchet in either direction. Most large hardware stores carry these screwdrivers. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: Bob Evans [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 7:40 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 stripped final's screw removal Hi Folks, This may not be a very high tech solution, but it got me out of a perceived pickle. I had stripped one of the screws securing the final transistors to the heat sink in one of my K2/100s. I was thinking how the heck am I going to remove a stripped screw in such a tight space?. A friend had suggested super gluing a Phillips screwdriver into the stripped screw. I tried it and the super glue didn't hold. Then I thought I could drill and tap the screw out, but I couldn't find a tap that was small enough. What finally worked was simply to drill into the center of the screw until the screw head detached from the screw shaft. It took a 5/64 bit. I had loosened all the other screws on the board and the board simply lifted away from the heat sink when the screw head separated from the shaft. With the board removed, the screw shaft could easily be unscrewed from the heat sink and replaced with a new screw. By the way, I turned the KPA100 board screw-head-down when I drilled so there wouldn't be much of a chance for metal splinters getting into the board. It worked! I have always used a high quality #1 screwdriver when I tightened these screws, but it stripped out anyway. I use my K2/100s exclusively for contesting and have been finding I need to re-tighten those screws after 20-30 hours of full bore operating (100 watts, lots of CQs). Maybe a Lock-tight type product is needed to keep the screws from backing out after thermal cycling, but some of you may have some advice whether this should be done or not. Anyway, in case you find your final's screw stripped, this method worked for me. P.S. I played around in ARRL SS SSB this past weekend. The K2 is a GREAT side band radio too! I know, I know.I can get ejected from this reflector for such heresy. ;-) 73, Bob K5WA K2s #4687 and #5119 in SO2R configuration ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 finals
The screws do not back out, and any kind of product like Locktite would really mess things up making it impossible to tighten the screws or to replace the finals should you have a failed final transistor...During heat build-up in the transistor and the heat sink the expansion of parts compresses the insulators...Everything cools and shrinks back to normal, but the insulators do not, they are compressed, and that leaves things loose... Make sure that the screw driver you are using is not a Reed and Prince instead of a Phillips...Reed and Prince drivers have a sharp point and Phillips, by comparison, have a blunt point...If a Reed and Prince screw driver is used on a Phillips screw, the point bottoms out in the screw before the side flutes are fully engaged and the crosshead of the screw might strip out...Some screw drivers sold as Phillips have too sharp a point... Jerry, wa2dkg I have always used a high quality #1 screwdriver when I tightened these screws, but it stripped out anyway. I use my K2/100s exclusively for contesting and have been finding I need to re-tighten those screws after 20-30 hours of full bore operating (100 watts, lots of CQs). Maybe a Lock-tight type product is needed to keep the screws from backing out after thermal cycling, but some of you may have some advice whether this should be done or not. Anyway, in case you find your final's screw stripped, this method worked for me. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Monitor Noise
Jim - W0EB wrote I have to echo W3FPR's advice. I had a Viewsonic monitor myself, and I DID shield the inside, put ferrites on the VGA input cable, put chokes, ferrites capacitors on the AC input as well, and didn't even manage to reduce the radiated noise. I suspect it's coming from the CRT itself. You will most likely spend more money trying to fix that monitor than you would buying an And it depends what kind of noise it is. Swiching power supply, flyback, or video. The last is characterized by very strong, stable carriers whose frequency changes with display mode and whose strength changes with brigtness and contrast. This makes sense, the electron beam is turned on and off fast ( 1ns) at pixel rates. About 15 years ago, when I was working for a large electronics retailer and (at the time) computer maker, I occasion to fix a couple of such monitors just to show the manufacturer it could be done. Their problem was associated with the CRT cathode current, and the radiated field was strong enough that nearby equipment *that wasn't even turned on* exceeded the FCC conducted emissions limit. In these cases I was able to reduce emissions by adding capacitive coupling between the CRT-mounted video amplifier and the tube. This was really just a piece of thin sheet metal soldered to the teh cathode driver board's ground plane and extended it forward, providing a return path for HF current that would otherwise be radiated. I don't know if any manufacturer actually did this, mind, but it's fairly easy to do. The usual caveats apply about working on CRT's. They're high voltage devices and can deliver a dangerous shock some for time after being turned off. Cortland KA5S ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?
[1] Does the DSP2 add significant extra current drain in RX? This is an important criteria as I'll be using batteries / solar cells and will have up to 6 AH of battery with me (2 x 3AH). The KDSP2 has a bypass mode where the DSP itself goes to sleep and the CODEC is in analog loopback mode. The added current drain in this configuration is about 10 mA. When it is operational, the KDSP2 adds about 60 mA to the base K2, or 50 mA more than bypass mode. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Update Assistance - Mods and Kits
All, My wife and I are discussing Christmas gifts for the coming season. I feel that some additional Elecraft hardware should in order. But the decision is difficult because I am not up to date with the latest kits and modifications. Christmas 2002 I received the KPA100 for my K2 SN #1308. This kit has yet to be built. We moved soon after that Christmas and the new house had no natural kit building area. Bad move on my part but it is now corrected. I built a new shack in my back yard that was designed for storage, hobbies and kit building. I have been back on the air for the last six months and now the shack is ready for kit building. My K2 currently is configured with these kits and modifications: K2# 1308 KSB2 K160RX KAF2 KIO2 KNB2 KAT2 KBT2 Lifted T2 Mod for 10 Meters PSK31 mod for KSB2 Sinewave Sidetone Mod Better grounding of crystals X7-X11 Rewiring from balanced to unbalanced audio pot Improved version of 2nd stage Crystal filter mod Replaced L33 with inductor wound on a core. In looking at my KPA100 kit and I have the Rev A, May 13 2002 manual. I think that I should get the following before starting the kit. Download the latest Manual. KPA100MODKT - Improves high SWR operation KPA100SHLDKT - Shield Upgrade: Since it was shipped in 2002. E100075SS - K2 Rear Panel Upgrade: I will get the K60XV in the future. Maybe updated firmware since it came with K2MCU 2.03d. What other kits should I get to reduce rework on the KPA100? What other essential modifications should be done while I have the radio apart? Thank you, Paul Guido N5IUT K2# 1308 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N1MM/AGC Pumping
Hi, folks: I believe this has been pointed out before, but just for the record, I too am experiencing AGC pumping with my K2/100 when running N1MM contest logging software. It's not a problem with the DX4WIN general logging program. When conditions are busy, it's not noticeable. Late at night, however, when the bands are relatively quiet, it becomes quite evident. A fix for it would be nice, but I rate it as a minor nuisance rather than a show-stopper. My K2/100 is integrated with those two programs and a new laptop, without serial ports, using a K1EL WinKey and serial-to-USB adapters (the latter being a whole 'nuther story unto themselves). Sounds simple doesn't it, but it has taken me two months and the assistance of half the amateur radio population of NA to deal with the issues that I confronted when I tried to venture into this area of technology which was entirely new to me. 73, Gary, VE1RGB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] To Mark, NK8Q only. Please ignore.
I have replied to your mail but your mail server says my server is in their black list for some reason. Have you got another mail address? 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
Yes, and then you get to buy a bunch of parts for your KIO2g! DO NOT CONNECT RS-232 to your KIO2 without opening all unused (by RS-232) pins. ONly Sig Ground, TX and RX go from computer to K2. All other lines on the KIO2 are not RS-232 and can't tolerate the +- 15V the computer will supply. Do not worry. I am one of those old generation (!) people who do not move a finger without reading the manual first. ;-) Now, as for reading manuals, I have got an interesting case for all of you to comment on. Multimode's Documentation starts by saying the following for transmitting (receiving is via the sound output of the rig): If you also want to transmit, you'll need to connect the audio output (speaker) jack of your Mac to your radio's microphone input jack. You may need to reduce the audio amplitude using a potentiometer, or attenuating audio cable. Many have sucessfully usd the RigBlaster, made by West Mountain Radio (http://www.westmountainradio.com/). Then goes onto describe the procedure for PTT and CW: For transmitting, you may want to be able to control your radio's PTT (Push To Talk) line. A PTT output is generated from the DTR output of the Mac's serial port. A CW key output is generated from the Transmit Data output. The diagram in the Documentation depicts a little circuit on the line from Mac's serial port to the CW Key control (and a smilar one to the PTT) such that: Mac Serial Port -- Diode (1N4148, etc.) -- 2.2k Resistor -- Transistor (2N, etc.) --PTT The other leg of the Transistor goes to ground. On a diversion from this line, there is a diode (1N4001, etc) which then connects to the first leg of the transistor going to the PTT. [I hope I haven't described it too badly. The diagram is on p4. of MultiModeDocs.pdf. I tried to attach it to this message but the list does not accept attachments.] The documentation describes the way the circuit works as follows: When the serial port output goes positive, it biases the transistor, so the collector can sink current. The 1N4148 diode protects the transistor when the serial port output is negative. The 1N4001 protects the transistor against flyback from a relay that might be lurking in the radio. A faster diode would probably offer additional protection. The connection on the Mac end would go to the DTR output line. If you'd like to use a similar circuit for CW key control, then it would go to the TxD+ line (or TxD- if you need to invert the logic of the output). There is no problem as far as this description is concerned. All sounds logical. Looking at things from the K2 side, p. 95 of the manual says that I should have two diodes (one on each line from the dot and dash connections) on the cables going to the computer, when I connect it in parallel to a paddle. And it describes the reason as: When you connect the keying device in this way, you can continue to use the paddle as usual. But if the external keying device is keyed, both the DOT and DASH lines will be pulled low simultaneously, via the diodes. The K2 firmware interprets this as direct external keying rather than as DOT and DASH triggers. This sounds quite logical, too. However, when you bring the two descriptions together on a single circuit an interesting case occurs. Now, I am not exactly a techie type person and learnt electronics just enough to pass the exam BUT AFAIK having diodes on both ends (i.e. on the computer side as well as the K2 side), each protecting their own respective device, there will not be any current flowing. Am I wrong? Or should I put the circuit together and test it anyway? Thanks for your help in advance. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?
Thanks, sadly this looks like a DSP2 will be part of the order. Please inform my bank manager :-) Simon Brown --- www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch - Original Message - From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] [1] Does the DSP2 add significant extra current drain in RX? This is an important criteria as I'll be using batteries / solar cells and will have up to 6 AH of battery with me (2 x 3AH). The KDSP2 has a bypass mode where the DSP itself goes to sleep and the CODEC is in analog loopback mode. The added current drain in this configuration is about 10 mA. When it is operational, the KDSP2 adds about 60 mA to the base K2, or 50 mA more than bypass mode. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
The diodes are doing two different things. Wire them up! It works great here. Will do. In this case, you are using the computer RS-232 to key the rig, so you'll definitely be building a custom cable - TxD and RxD to the K2, DTR to your keying circuit (btw, this can fit into the DB9 shell), and NC all the K2 specific lines. I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-) The two diodes on the K2 end are to allow ADET operation (a keyer and a straightkey/computer simultaneously connected). If the DTR line pulls the pair of diodes low, both DIT and DAH go low together and the K2 assumes a straight key. If they go low at different times, the K2 assumes iambic keying and acts appropriately. So ops (up at twice the speed I can run) can fool ADET and need to turn it off. They don't need the diodes but must switch from paddles to SK/Computer with the menu. Other ops only ever do it one way or the other - and switch off ADET too. Hmmm. I'll have to read MultiMode manual further to figure out which method it uses, straight key or iambic... I have got a feeling I'll have to experiment with this setting a little. I hope I do not burn anything on the way. Thanks for the input. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] SSB with K2 [was KPA100 stripped final's screw removal]
Bekir, The power output from your K2 is indeed low and your current draw is higher than normal. When this condition exists, the first thing to suspect is the Low Pass Filters. Check the inductors for the proper number of turns (count the turns as thay pass through the center of the core - if the outside is counted, you may be one turn in error). Check the capacitors for proper values (look on the schematic to see the correct values). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Although my QTH is blocked by a nearby hill in the East and another nearish hill in the North, I have worked quite a few countries with less than 8 Watts. (My rig does not go above 7.1 to 7.3 Watts, giving a Hi Cur warning. I just hope this is normal. Cal Cur is set at 3.5 Ampers) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-) If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and you won't be keying your K2 that way. Hmmm. I'll have to read MultiMode manual further to figure out which method it uses, straight key or iambic... I have got a feeling I'll have to experiment with this setting a little. I hope I do not burn anything on the way. All computer keyers are straight key to the K2, iambic is only for manual paddles. Alternatively, some control programs tell the K2 to send the code, but sending KEY THIS commands over the RS-232. I'm not sure what you can do if you don't have RS-232 available. However, even old macs had USB, so you may not be toast quite yet. However, I know nothing about USB/rs232 adapters/software. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2345 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-) If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and you won't be keying your K2 that way. I must have misexpresed myself. Sorry about that. The Macs do have a serial port but the connector is not an RS232. I do not know what they are called but they are cylindrical in shape, like the mouse connectors on PCs and they have got 8 pins in them. One of them gives the DTR. All computer keyers are straight key to the K2, iambic is only for manual paddles. Alternatively, some control programs tell the K2 to send the code, but sending KEY THIS commands over the RS-232. Good to know. Thanks for the info. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
RS-232 is a protocol. DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN). RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of field-telephone wire). Sounds like you are good to go! Dan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bekir Kemal Ataman Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 2:58 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-) If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and you won't be keying your K2 that way. I must have misexpresed myself. Sorry about that. The Macs do have a serial port but the connector is not an RS232. I do not know what they are called but they are cylindrical in shape, like the mouse connectors on PCs and they have got 8 pins in them. One of them gives the DTR. All computer keyers are straight key to the K2, iambic is only for manual paddles. Alternatively, some control programs tell the K2 to send the code, but sending KEY THIS commands over the RS-232. Good to know. Thanks for the info. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
RS-232 is a protocol. DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN). RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of field-telephone wire). I did not know that. Thanks for the info. Sounds like you are good to go! Will do. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
As a Mac fan myself, I have lots of information to help. In fact, both Wayne and I here at Elecraft are primarily Mac users (but we use Windows and other systems as well). Connecting a Mac to the K2 is very easy, involving only three wires of the Mini-Din 8 bundle. The Mini-Din 8 appeared on all Macs from the Mac Plus until Async serial was dropped in favor of USB around the year 2000. The connectors are still used in several USB-Serial adapters, most notably the Keyspan dual-serial devices. I usually fabricate a serial cable by taking an existing Mini Din-8 to Mini Din-8 cable and cutting it in half, then installing a male DE-9 with hood onto the cut end of the cable. You will need to make the following connections: Mini Din-8 DE9M (most folks call it a DB9M) 5 2 3 3 4 5 Identifying the Mini Din-8 pins can be difficult. The pins you need are in the middle row. The gap between pins 4 and 5 is noticeably larger than that between pins 3 and 4. You don't need to connect any other leads from the Mini Din-8 - in fact doing so could cause problems in the K2. As for Mac software and information, there is a wealth of info at the Mac Ham radio web site: http://www.machamradio.com/ Most users have upgraded to MacOS X systems, but there are still quite a few folks still using older systems. Much f the older software still works just fine, and is there just for the asking or downloading! Good luck - if you need anything else, just ask. On Nov 22, 2005, at 12:06 PM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote: RS-232 is a protocol. DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN). RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of field-telephone wire). I did not know that. Thanks for the info. Sounds like you are good to go! Will do. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
I tried a USB to RS232 adapter made by Belkin a couple of months ago. Sorry, I don't have the model # handy. It seemed to work okay for both rig control (using the specified cable for the K2) as well as for CW keying (using the keying adapter I had previously built into a DB9 connector shell). I was quite surprised this was the case as I expected at least one of the combinations to not work correctly. My IBM laptop only has one RS232 port and one USB port on the back panel as well as another pair of USB2.0 ports that were added with a PCMCIA card. I did very little testing with both of these modes/configurations, though, so I'm not sure if more extensive testing would have shown other problems. I think the hardest thing about the rig control was to get the virtual RS232 set up with a COM Port ID# in the range that the rig control program would accept, I think COM1 - COM4. COM1 was already in use with the RS232 port on the back of the laptop and it defaulted to COM5 for the virtual port with the USB-RS232 adapter. Once I had it redefined as either COM2 or COM4 I think it then worked okay. I do know that not all USB to RS232 adapters are created equal, so I wouldn't be anxious to buy and off brand to save a few dollars. Even with the Belkin product I was a bit nervous because the case was one of those plastic cases that you can see through (Wow, look at the electronic parts inside of this Dongle!), so I was worried about it being susceptible to my Tx or likewis if it would be spewing noise that my Rx wouldn't like. As it was just running QRP and later 100W I didn't see any problems from the Tx side and didn't really notice any on the Rx side. Again, I didn't do extensive testing though, and higher power may be a problem, or as they say Individual Results May Vary. I bought mine at Staples where there was a 100% return policy if not 100% satisfied. Mark, NK8Q However, I know nothing about USB/rs232 adapters/software. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2345 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
There is another mailing list that Mac users should subscribe to. This is the Ham Mac list. For more info, or to subscribe, go to: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/ham-mac You will find all sorts of great folks there, including the authors of Mac ham software such as MultiMode and MacLogger DX. On Nov 22, 2005, at 12:06 PM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote: RS-232 is a protocol. DB-9 is a connector (so is your mini-DIN). RS-232 via an RJ45 is still RS-232 (as it would be over 4 pair of field-telephone wire). I did not know that. Thanks for the info. Sounds like you are good to go! Will do. 73! BKA (TA2RX) -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
Great info Jack. Thanks for all the input. I normally use a G3/300 for my daily work. My old Macs (7200 and 7400) serve as my mail and web servers. I have also got a PB3400 lying around. The story is this: I got involved with Ham Radio after the terrible earthquake we experienced in 1999, as a result of my search and rescue activities. Having grown (!) to 100 kilos since than, I had to direct my interest to something technical (like disaster communications), since I cannot go into collapsed buildings with such a large body. Seeing a KX-1 made by TA2AH, I thought I found my dream rig, the ultimate disaster communications transceiver, since all you need is a few batteries and a piece of wire to communicate with the rest of the world. I took the exam and upgraded my licence, for the love of the KX-1. However, as things turned out, I could not proceed with CW after a certain point, because I could not stop translating everything into the dots and dashes in my mind, no matter how hard I tried. So, I decided to give it a break for sometime. Just then, TA2AH sold me his K2, to build himself a K1. Naturally, K2 won over KX-1, since it has got other abilities on top of CW. So, I started investigating about other ways of communication, namely the digital. Because every mode has got different advantages in case of a disaster (for example you cannot read a long list of needed suplies one by one on voice, you need some form of digital communication). Having a surplus PB3400 around, it became the natural choice for this purpose. Thus the search for the pinouts. I'll let you know how I proceed. There is another mailing list that Mac users should subscribe to. This is the Ham Mac list. For more info, or to subscribe, go to: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/ham-mac You will find all sorts of great folks there, including the authors of Mac ham software such as MultiMode and MacLogger DX. And many thanks for this, too. Will go there straight away. 73! BKA (TA2RX) As a Mac fan myself, I have lots of information to help. In fact, both Wayne and I here at Elecraft are primarily Mac users (but we use Windows and other systems as well). Connecting a Mac to the K2 is very easy, involving only three wires of the Mini-Din 8 bundle. The Mini-Din 8 appeared on all Macs from the Mac Plus until Async serial was dropped in favor of USB around the year 2000. The connectors are still used in several USB-Serial adapters, most notably the Keyspan dual-serial devices. I usually fabricate a serial cable by taking an existing Mini Din-8 to Mini Din-8 cable and cutting it in half, then installing a male DE-9 with hood onto the cut end of the cable. You will need to make the following connections: Mini Din-8 DE9M (most folks call it a DB9M) 5 2 3 3 4 5 Identifying the Mini Din-8 pins can be difficult. The pins you need are in the middle row. The gap between pins 4 and 5 is noticeably larger than that between pins 3 and 4. You don't need to connect any other leads from the Mini Din-8 - in fact doing so could cause problems in the K2. As for Mac software and information, there is a wealth of info at the Mac Ham radio web site: http://www.machamradio.com/ Most users have upgraded to MacOS X systems, but there are still quite a few folks still using older systems. Much f the older software still works just fine, and is there just for the asking or downloading! Good luck - if you need anything else, just ask. -- Bekir Kemal Ataman ArchiMac BBS Sysop Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Free Batteries
Batteries Plus or your local computer store maybe good places to find old battery packs. Just ask the clerk if you have an old dead LiIon Battery Pack. i just got an old HP Laptop battery pack and 4 of the 8 cells were good. i got 4 good Sanyo 4UR18650-2-7 LiIon batteries out and charged them and now i have a nice external 14.4VDC supply for my KX1 at 2.3 AmpHour. The pack weight is only 6 oz.. The cells are 2.3 x 0.75 each. Do not exceed the 3.700 V charging voltage, Google your mfgr's spec sheet for maximum charging voltage. You may have to learn how to charge them. They have NiCad's and NiMH's too... Paul w0rw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
On Nov 22, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote: I am afraid vintage Macs do not have an RS232 port ;-) If you don't have an RS232 port, you don't have a DTR to connect to, and you won't be keying your K2 that way. I must have misexpresed myself. Sorry about that. The Macs do have a serial port but the connector is not an RS232. I do not know what they are called but they are cylindrical in shape, like the mouse connectors on PCs and they have got 8 pins in them. One of them gives the DTR. Actually RS-232 refers to the signal names and levels, although a DE-9 (Cannon nomenclature) connector is often used (sometimes it is a DB-25, particularly for modems). A good place to find information related to Macintosh radio applications is the ham-mac mailing list http://mailman.qth.net/ mailman/listinfo/ham-mac. 73, Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
Just a tid-bit of information here (useless though it may be) - the RS232 standard does specify a connector - and in fact it is the DB-25 connector. Other connector configurations may carry the RS-232 signal levels and signalling protocol, and can come in many different flavors. The one we seem to be most concerned with is the DB-9 (more properly a DE-9) connector which has become the de-facto 'standard' on IBM compatible PCs. The Apple world has used mini-din connectors for most everything (including RS-232 level signals) for a long time. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Actually RS-232 refers to the signal names and levels, although a DE-9 (Cannon nomenclature) connector is often used (sometimes it is a DB-25, particularly for modems). A good place to find information related to Macintosh radio applications is the ham-mac mailing list http://mailman.qth.net/ mailman/listinfo/ham-mac. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic
Let's not get into an argument on this... The latest spec is RS-232F, I believe. It now contains definitions for the DB25 and RJ-45 connectors and maybe a few others. At over $100 for the spec, I don't have a strong desire to find out what else. Amazingly, it does not contain definitions for the commonly-used DE9 connector. In D-shell connectors, the second letter specifies the size of the connector shell. There are many pinouts and arrangements used in B- sized shells, including Sun's video connections. The 15 pin connector uses an A shell, while the 9 an E shell. Now that we note this, I seriously doubt that we have any chance of convincing the world to use the correct nomenclature, are we... And lastly, the Macintosh has never used RS-232 levels on its serial ports. Instead, they (we for a while) used RS422 levels, centered around zero volts. This allowed the creation of AppleTalk and its predecessor, AppleBus. It also allowed interfacing to the outside world and the commonly used RS-232 levels. All have now been phased out and Apple uses Ethernet and USB on its systems. OK, so now back to our regularly scheduled radio discussions... ;-) :-) :-) On Nov 22, 2005, at 6:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Just a tid-bit of information here (useless though it may be) - the RS232 standard does specify a connector - and in fact it is the DB-25 connector. Other connector configurations may carry the RS-232 signal levels and signalling protocol, and can come in many different flavors. The one we seem to be most concerned with is the DB-9 (more properly a DE-9) connector which has become the de-facto 'standard' on IBM compatible PCs. The Apple world has used mini-din connectors for most everything (including RS-232 level signals) for a long time. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Actually RS-232 refers to the signal names and levels, although a DE-9 (Cannon nomenclature) connector is often used (sometimes it is a DB-25, particularly for modems). A good place to find information related to Macintosh radio applications is the ham-mac mailing list http://mailman.qth.net/ mailman/listinfo/ham-mac. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 with MacOS Classic --- Way OT!
I have a very nice Calcomp Graphics tablet which runs on the ADB connection to my Mac IIvx. Unfortunately I cannot find a way to move the pad over to my present Win2K box. Any thoughts on how to run Apple Desktop Bus units on either USB or RS232 connections? The tablet is powered by the ADB but I could run from external power. It is rather large with an 18x24 inch active area but I was creating architectural drawings and topographic maps at the time. Saves on having to splice drawings together inside Photoshop too. If anyone has any hints on how to get it running on this modern boxes I am all ears. Kevin. KD5ONS On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 19:05:01 -0800, Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Let's not get into an argument on this... The latest spec is RS-232F, I believe. It now contains definitions for the DB25 and RJ-45 connectors and maybe a few others. At over $100 for the spec, I don't have a strong desire to find out what else. Amazingly, it does not contain definitions for the commonly-used DE9 connector. In D-shell connectors, the second letter specifies the size of the connector shell. There are many pinouts and arrangements used in B- sized shells, including Sun's video connections. The 15 pin connector uses an A shell, while the 9 an E shell. Now that we note this, I seriously doubt that we have any chance of convincing the world to use the correct nomenclature, are we... And lastly, the Macintosh has never used RS-232 levels on its serial ports. Instead, they (we for a while) used RS422 levels, centered around zero volts. This allowed the creation of AppleTalk and its predecessor, AppleBus. It also allowed interfacing to the outside world and the commonly used RS-232 levels. All have now been phased out and Apple uses Ethernet and USB on its systems. OK, so now back to our regularly scheduled radio discussions... ;-) :-) :-) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.5/178 - Release Date: 11/22/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
