[Elecraft] Dot Dash memory K2

2006-01-06 Thread dl2tm
Hello,

is ist possible to switch off the dot dash memory from the K2-internal 
cw-keyer? I have problems with it.
Thank you

Henry
DL2TM

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Re: [Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor

2006-01-06 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Morning Ralph,

Thank you for sharing the information about these devices, very interesting!

I must confess that I have for decades used NEW sparkplugs with their gaps 
suitably set for the maximum peak RF voltage on the line, assuming a high 
VSWR, plus some, and with separate static drains placed elsewhere. The 
devices that you have found probably provide better protection and are 
certainly neater.


Knife switches and I have never got on very well!! I have always been wary 
of having to 'throw' a shack installed feeder switch in anger, probably 
because Murphy's Law states that this would be the moment when the antenna 
system gets zapped. But that's just one coward's opinion.


Good luck with the double extended Zepp.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Ralph Tyrrell wrote on Friday, January 06, 2006 3:07 AM


Still running my K1 (#1423) on inefficient low
antennas.
I have some trees that will give me good height 50-60'
and orient the main lobe of a double extended zepp
(14MHz) toward Oregon, take notice ECN.

I have come across a device that will keep the antenna
at near DC ground at all times.


snip


Just wondering if anyone else has used this or a
similar item and what comments might be made. Just
trying to be save from lightning.
I would also put a DPDT knife switch between the feed
line and the K1 with BL2 to ground the feed line when
not in use.





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Re: [Elecraft] A Stupid Idea?

2006-01-06 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Thu, 5 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I found the recent stupid thread to be entertaining and informative,
but must agree that it strayed way off the subject of Elecrafts.

Maybe there's a way to avoid clogging up the reflector and the
archives with such posts, yet have them reach those who want
them.


There is a very low tech solution...but it might not work, simply
because humans would be involved.  The solution would be to use another list 
that is not as highly structured, isn't topicality bound and as such
may not have subscribers who would object to posts not within the rigid confines 
of topicality.


The list exists, has very low traffic, and is certainly open to new members
and posts.  Because its intention is not to replace or compete with any 
exisiting lists, it's simply another venue that isn't as rigid.


So, if you or others have a mind to continue the stupid threads, feel free to 
join the [EMAIL PROTECTED], details at 
http://www.zerobeat.net/qrp/qrplist.html

archives at http://www.mail-archive.com/qrplist%40www.zerobeat.net/

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel,
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor

2006-01-06 Thread James Apple
I used one for 5 or so years with a full wave 80m loop.  It seemed to work
well but I don't think I ever had a hit.

I also had a knife switch, but in case I forgot to throw it or a storm snuck
up on my, I had the ICE unit.

On 1/5/06, Ralph Tyrrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Still running my K1 (#1423) on inefficient low
 antennas.
 I have some trees that will give me good height 50-60'
 and orient the main lobe of a double extended zepp
 (14MHz) toward Oregon, take notice ECN.

 I have come across a device that will keep the antenna
 at near DC ground at all times.

 http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/impulse1.html

 go down to Open Wire Arrestor, Model 309

 All units use torroidal inductors and present near
 dead DC short on antenna side of arrestor, constantly
 draining feedline wires of static and any developed
 voltage potential feedthrough breakdown voltage from
 input ports to output ports 4,000 to 6,000 volts.
 Arrestor units may be placed anywhere in the feedline
 at ground level without serious change in tuning, but
 small change may be detectable due to small increase
 in total feedline length caused by size of arrestor
 case  circuit.

 Just wondering if anyone else has used this or a
 similar item and what comments might be made. Just
 trying to be save from lightning.
 I would also put a DPDT knife switch between the feed
 line and the K1 with BL2 to ground the feed line when
 not in use.

 Thanks all.

 73, W1TF, Ty in GA



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--

- Jim
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[Elecraft] Autotuners and transmitter longevity

2006-01-06 Thread John Harper

In another thread, W.D. (Doc) Lindsey wrote:

Well I need IMMEDIATE help with my ATS-2.Suddenly I could not get it to 
go into Tune mode, which is causing

me some trouble setting up my automatic tuners.



With the popularity of external autotuners (T1, LDG, etc) among many of us, 
I'm wondering what thoughts folks may have regarding rigs such as the AT 
Sprints and KX-1 where the output power cannot be reduced prior to tuning. 
Normally, when I tune for minimum SWR I lower the rig's output to protect 
the finals if I expect SWR to be initially high. This isn't possible with 
the AT Sprint and is inconvenient with the KX-1 (I know the KX-1 has a 
built-in tuner and that power is reduced prior to tuning - I'm talking about 
those rigs when used with external tuners)


Do you guys avoid using autotuners on rigs whose output can't be reduced or 
do you use them anyway and just take your chances?


John Harper AE5X
Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com


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RE: [Elecraft] Autotuners and transmitter longevity

2006-01-06 Thread Gil Stacy


John,

What I do with the ATS3 and the T1 combination is to switch power sources 
(batteries) to reduce output from 5 to 2 watts for tune-up.


73, Gil NN4CW


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RE: [Elecraft] Autotuners and transmitter longevity

2006-01-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Just a thought since I have no direct experience lately because I use the
Elecraft internal tuners or resonant antennas.

Many transmitters are self-protecting, and should withstand short intervals
of high SWR without harm.  Best to know your equipment because some can be
harmed.  If it is homebrew, you should already know the answer, and
commercial rigs should indicate something about the SWR handling in their
manuals.  As an example, the KPA100 reduces its power automatically if the
SWR is above 2.0.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 With the popularity of external autotuners (T1, LDG, etc) among
 many of us,
 I'm wondering what thoughts folks may have regarding rigs such as the AT
 Sprints and KX-1 where the output power cannot be reduced prior
 to tuning.
 Normally, when I tune for minimum SWR I lower the rig's output to protect
 the finals if I expect SWR to be initially high. This isn't possible with
 the AT Sprint and is inconvenient with the KX-1 (I know the KX-1 has a
 built-in tuner and that power is reduced prior to tuning - I'm
 talking about
 those rigs when used with external tuners)

 Do you guys avoid using autotuners on rigs whose output can't be
 reduced or
 do you use them anyway and just take your chances?

 John Harper AE5X
 Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com



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[Elecraft] Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Gilbert J Cross
Since Elecraft is coming out with a high power linear I am
wondering if they also have plans for a compatible tuner.

GilK8EAG
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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread N2TK, Tony
Wouldn't it be nice if an auto-tuner was built into the amp? I am anxious to
see the high power version of the amp that I saw at Dayton this past year.
73,
N2TK, Tony

 -Original Message-
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  On Behalf Of Gilbert J Cross
Sent:   Friday, January 06, 2006 9:42 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject:[Elecraft] Elecraft high power linear

Since Elecraft is coming out with a high power linear I am
wondering if they also have plans for a compatible tuner.

GilK8EAG
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[Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor

2006-01-06 Thread J F
Hi Ty,

I had some minor damage to my K2 from ESD in 2004. I
didn't have any form of lightning protection at the
time.

I did purchase this device and haven't had any
problems since. Of course, maybe I haven't had a
nearby discharge, but didn't want to risk it again.

My new shack has this installed as well. Mine are both
installed closer to the rig (on the output side of my
inside antenna switch).

I've opened one of these up, and suspect you could
easily build one for a fraction of a commercial unit.

For my new installation, I've buried all of my
feedlines (longest run is about 80'). This has a
twofold effect, lightning protection and common mode
attenuation. OK, four benefits, all the lines are out
of sight and harm's way.

The work is not as hard as it sounds. I used a little
Honda rototiller to dig the trench. Then got PVC
sprinkler line (I've used both the black coiled stuff
and 20' lengths, size depends on what you're trying to
run thru it.) and buried it. You can bury some lines
directly, but it makes repair/replacement a real
headache.

I run heliax/coax, rotor control and switching cables
thru them. Also, I lay a ground wire in the trench on
the bottom and tie all my ground rods together.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn

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[Elecraft] Spring/Summer 2006 Pacific Crest Trail Operation

2006-01-06 Thread Bruce Prior
I am planning a short-QSO CW operation (Exchange:  Callsign, Maidenhead 
Grid, Name) on HF and VHF/APRS during my 2006 Pacific Crest National Scenic 
Trail northbound thru-hike.


On scheduled weekdays I'll operate on:
7.030 MHz ± 1200-1215 PDT (1900-1915 Z)
14.060 MHz ± 1215-1300 PDT (1915-2000 Z)

and on Saturdays:
10.106 MHz ± 1200-1230 PDT (1900-1930 Z)

My scheduled days of HF operation are:

Monday, April 10Tuesday, April 18Wednesday, April 26
Thursday, May 4Friday, May 12Saturday, May 20Monday, May 22
Tuesday, May 30

Wednesday, June 7Thursday, June 15Friday, June 23
Saturday, July 1Monday, July 3Tuesday, July 11Wednesday, July 19 
   Thursday, July 27
Friday, August  4Saturday, August 12Monday, August 14Tuesday, 
August 22   Wednesday, August 30

Thursday, September 7Friday, September 15Saturday, September 23

I will be carrying an Elecraft KX1 transceiver with the new 80 m and 30 m 
module and internal ATU installed, so I will be able to operate on 80 m CW, 
75 m CW/LSB crossmode, 40 m CW and CW/LSB crossmode, 30 m CW, and 20 m CW 
and CW/USB crossmode.  I'll be using portable wire antennas for HF rather 
than backpack-mounted ones.  In the evenings I will be checking into 
appropriate 80 m CW (and occasionally 75 m LSB) traffic nets.


I will also be carrying APRS gear, a Kenwood TH-D7A(G). Try looking at:

http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=n7rr*radar=***terra=4topo=2

Beginning no later than April 3, I will be transmitting my location 
regularly whenever I'm in range of terrestrial APRS nodes, or when I'm out 
of range of those, I'll be sending my position information through APRS 
Amateur Radio satellites.  If you save that URL in your favorites list, 
you'll be able to watch my Pacific Crest Trail progress on a combination of 
a road map, a weather radar chart, an aerial photograph and a topographical 
map.


Through the APRS messaging system, I will be available to exchange that same 
Callsign, Grid and Name information at anytime during the trek.  The same 
system also allows me to send very short e-mails.  The total message 
allocation is 45 characters INCLUDING the e-mail address.


Please save this information and plan on contacting me during the spring and 
summer.  Multiple QSOs on different days and bands are encouraged.


73, Bruce Prior N7RR


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Re: [Elecraft] Dot Dash memory K2

2006-01-06 Thread Vic K2VCO

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello,

is ist possible to switch off the dot dash memory from the K2-internal 
cw-keyer? I have problems with it.


Go to the menu, select IAB (Iambic mode A or B) and select A.  That is 
probably what you mean by 'switching off the dot dash memory'.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread wayne burdick

N2TK, Tony wrote:


Wouldn't it be nice if an auto-tuner was built into the amp?


It is.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] KAT100 help wanted

2006-01-06 Thread Brian Broggie

Posted on behalf of Mike Sexsmith

In keeping with recent postings about “dumb things” one has done here 
is my most recent contribution…


A few months back I had posted a problem I was having with my tuner, but 
have been busy with a move and job change, etc. and have not had time to 
troubleshoot more until now. So here’s the story…


I have K2#4819 with KAT2, KIO2, SSB, 160 meters connected to a 
KAT100/KPA100 combo in an EC2 enclosure. The rig had been working for 
3-4 months until after I had disassembled the station for a move. It 
seems that when I set the station back up I accidentally connected the 
cable from the KPA100 antenna connector to the Ant 1 connector on the 
KAT100 instead of to the RF In connector on the KAT100. The actual 
antenna coax was connected to the RF In line on the KAT100. (believe it 
or not it actually worked!) The rig was used this way for a period of 
time until it would suddenly no longer tune up on 80 and 160 meters.


At present the LED’s on the KAT100 will not light up during tuning or 
attempts to transmit on 80 and 160 meters, with SWR never getting below 
9.9. I tried tuning into a 50 ohm 300 watt dummy load with the same 
results. ( every band ok except for 80  160) All other bands seem to 
work well and LED’s do light up on all other bands during tuning and 
transmit.


The basic K2 with KAT2 tunes and transmits fine on all bands, including 
80  160 meters when disconnected from the KAT100/KPA100 unit.


So:
1. Did I likely “fry” some components?
2. Which ones are the likely fried components? ( I'm assuming they are 
in the EC2 combo?)


Thanks for all help and ideas in advance!


Mike Sexsmith
K2#4819
KX1#1034

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RE: RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations

2006-01-06 Thread Peter Zenker
As usualy, you did say it better then i can with my restricted english Ron
:-)

Have seen your mail after I have written my answer but I thing doubling the
knowledge makes it stronger :-)

Peter
www.qrpproject.de 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron 
 D'Eau Claire
 Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 8:19 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
 
 Martin wrote:
 
 ...another antenna I have used is a 66ft length of wire at 
 15feet, fed in the centre with 300 ohm twinlead.
 
 In this case, the driven half of the wire is still 33ft long 
 - but I get really low SWR om 20m and have worked DX with it,
 
 So why does that work?  Is the feedline doing something to 
 help me out here?  Or is a dipole just a completely different 
 scenario altogether?..
 
 --
 
 You are describing a classic doublet antenna, Martin (a 
 dipole is, by definition, exactly 1/2 wave long and may be 
 fed anywhere: center, off-center or at the end. The dipole 
 or two poles refer to the two electrostatic poles set up at 
 the ends of a radiator when it is exactly 1/2 wavelength long). 
 
 In your doublet both sides radiate, as you observed. Feedline 
 losses are relatively low because it is of a relatively high 
 impedance (compared to common coaxial lines), which reduces 
 the SWR the feeders may experience under extreme conditions. 
 For highest efficiency, an impedance in the 400-600 ohm range 
 is often used. Another disadvantage of twin-lead is that its 
 electrical characteristics may change significantly with 
 moisture, snow and ice. True open wire with virtually all air 
 dielectric is much more stable in that regard. 
 
 In this case the feedline acts as an impedance transformer. 
 In another post I explained how the famous Zeppelin antenna 
 behaves with a 1/4 wave feed line transforming the very high 
 impedance at the end of the 1/2 wave wire to a low impedance 
 at the rig.
 
 The same thing happens here, although exactly what the 
 impedances being 'seen' by the rig are change dramatically 
 from band to band. Most hams simply add or, if possible 
 prune, some feeder to find a length their matching network 
 (antenna tuner) can handle on all the bands they want to use.  
 
 As the antenna is made shorter than 1/2 wavelength, the 
 impedance at the center drops very quickly. However, if the 
 missing length is made up in the length of the feed line 
 (e.g. a 33 foot radiator and a 33 foot feed line will be very 
 close to 1/2 wave long on 80 meters) the effect at the 
 transmitter end will be very small. However, since radiation 
 from the feedline of a center fed doublet is minimal if 
 balanced feed is used, the field strength of such an antenna 
 drops as the radiator part becomes shorter and  shorter. It's 
 not too bad as long as the radiator is at least 1/4 
 wavelength long. If I recall correctly, such an antenna is 
 only about 1 dB
 (1/6 of a typical S unit) lower than a half wave radiator. 
 
 So a 66 foot long doublet will do a very good job down as low 
 as 3.5 MHz, especially if the feed line is at least 33 feet long. 
 
 The other issue is height above ground. A horizontal 
 antenna's pattern is controlled a great deal by the height 
 above ground in wavelengths. A horizontal antenna about 1/2 
 wave above ground is FB for DX with lobes at fairly low 
 angles for DX that are as much as 6 dB - a whole S-unit - 
 stronger than you'd get from, say, a good vertical, thanks to 
 the reflection from the ground helping the signal. As the 
 antenna gets closer to the ground the maximum radiation lobe 
 moves more and more vertically until, at about
 0.2 wavelengths above the ground the lobe points straight up. 
 That's not much good for DX but it's great for short skip 
 contacts out to about 1000 miles as the radiation straight up 
 is scattered and reflected off of the ionosphere. Hams 
 setting up antennas specifically for working other stations 
 out to about 1000 miles often purposely put them fairly close 
 to the ground for just that reason.
 
 Below 0.2 wavelengths, the  main lobe continues to point 
 straight up but grows weaker as the ground losses increase. 
 
 So your 15 foot high 66 foot long antenna was a FB 40 meter 
 short-skip antenna and it probably got out quite well for 
 skip out to about 1000 miles on 80. On 20 you start working 
 more DX with 15 and  10 meters being excellent DX bands for 
 it. On those bands it is high enough for good low-angle lobes 
 and at that length the pattern breaks up into multiple lobes 
 that show significant gain over a half-wave radiator. 
 
 When speaking of lobes, keep in mind that the radiation from 
 an antenna is never zero in any direction. There's always 
 some radiation in every direction. The lobes only indicate 
 that some directions are favored more than others. And, as 
 the QRP and QRPpers constantly prove, miniscule signals 

RE: RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations

2006-01-06 Thread Peter Zenker
Hi Martin,

You are using twinlead! A twinlead always acts as a transformer we call it
lecher system, my dictonary believes you call it the same :-)

If you have a given impedance at one end, the impedence at the other end is
depending on frequency and length of the Lecher wires.

E.G.  If the lenght of the lecher wires is exactly an electrically quarter
of the wavelength, an open ended twinlead will show a short= Zero Ohms at
the other end.

Draw the current curve above the wire and you will understand it easier: A
halfwave has zero current at the ends (0 current = high voltage = high
impedance) and high current in the middle.
At any point along the line you will have another impedance, thats the
result of the transformed impedance at the feed point.

By the way, thats the reason why lots of twin lead frieds use to have a 2-3m
extra piece of twinlead in their bag if they are portable. If by chance the
impedance on one band is transformed to a value the ATU cannot handle, they
make the twinlead  a little bit longer with this reserve piece and - bingo-
the tuner now can handle the impedance.

72 de Peter, DL2FI
www.qrpproject.de


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Martin Gillen
 Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 7:43 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations
 
 Hi, Peter.
 
 Please excuse my ignorance I'm fairly new to amateur radio ;)
 
 But I have a question:
 
  The only reason that the use the nearby bushes
  construct now can be tuned by the T1 is that the impedance goes low 
  because a part of the antenna is lying on the floor now, 
 giving high 
  capacitance against ground which allways lowers the impedance.
 
 Yes, I understand that;  any radiation from the counterpoise 
 is effectively lost into the ground.
 
 However another antenna I have used is a 66ft length of wire 
 at 15feet, fed in the centre with 300 ohm twinlead.
 
 In this case, the driven half of the wire is still 33ft long 
 - but I get really low SWR om 20m and have worked DX with it,
 
 So why does that work?  Is the feedline doing something to 
 help me out here?  Or is a dipole just a completely different 
 scenario altogether?
 
 Thanks,
 Martin.
 
 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread James C. Hall MD

wayne burdick wrote:


N2TK, Tony wrote:


Wouldn't it be nice if an auto-tuner was built into the amp?



It is.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Umm, any time frame on this ? I had to scratch it off my Christmas list 
this past year !  Also, when will we see the 440 transverter ?


73, Jamie
WB4YDL
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread wayne burdick


On Jan 6, 2006, at 9:03 AM, James C. Hall MD wrote:

Umm, any time frame on this ? I had to scratch it off my Christmas 
list this past year !  Also, when will we see the 440 transverter ?


Both are close to starting field testing. Other details will be posted 
when available.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


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RE: [Elecraft] Autotuners and transmitter longevity

2006-01-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Most well-designed rigs are protected against sporadic high SWR's. I'd be
much more concerned with arcing in the relays inside the tuner. Nothing
destroys relay contacts like switching them hot. Elecraft's tuners reduce
output power during tune to minimize that danger. Like you said, that isn't
always the case with external or remote tuners. 

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations

2006-01-06 Thread Michael Babineau VE3WMB


Steve Aa8af wrote :


In the article Taming the End-Fed Antenna (The Antenna File, RGSB, 
pg

118) he looked at this issue by plotting various 1/2 wave lengths and
proposed the following end-fed wire lengths:
- 26.5m (86.9 ft) for 160 - 10M use
- 15m (49.2 ft) for 80, 40, 20, 17, 15, 12, 10M use
- 10m (32.8 ft) for 80, 40, 30, 17, 15, 12, 10M use



Anyone serious about using end-fed wires needs to read this article,  
IMHO !

I have this permanently book-marked in my copy of The Antenna File and
I have probably re-read it 20 times.

BTW I thought that I would add that this publication is available in 
the US

from the ARRL.

Personally I really enjoy RSGB antenna publications. Folks in the UK 
and Europe
have had to contend with small gardens for quite some time and have 
come up
with some very interesting and innovative antenna solutions to fit in 
to small spaces.


Michael VE3WMB

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RE: [Elecraft] T1 Antenna Considerations

2006-01-06 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Fri, 6 Jan 2006, Michael Babineau VE3WMB wrote:



Steve Aa8af wrote :



In the article Taming the End-Fed Antenna (The Antenna File, RGSB, pg
118) he looked at this issue by plotting various 1/2 wave lengths and
proposed the following end-fed wire lengths:
- 26.5m (86.9 ft) for 160 - 10M use
- 15m (49.2 ft) for 80, 40, 20, 17, 15, 12, 10M use
- 10m (32.8 ft) for 80, 40, 30, 17, 15, 12, 10M use



hm, 86.9 looks like the length used for an EDP, doesn't it?

Don't have access to the publication, but does he mention a counterpoise(s)
for any of the lengths above?

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Stan Rife
When is it going to be ready??

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne burdick
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:08 AM
To: N2TK, Tony
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear


N2TK, Tony wrote:

 Wouldn't it be nice if an auto-tuner was built into the amp?

It is.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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RE: [Elecraft] Using K2 with broken D1 on the K60XV

2006-01-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Michael,

Given the conditions you now report, I would say that you have some kind of
noise source that is causing the S-meter to respond.  You will have to track
down the source of that noise.  Have you tried it with a 50 ohm load on the
input jack to the K60XV?  There are no active components in the receive path
(other than the PIN diode) on the K60XV board - the input jack is routed
directly to the K2 bandpass filter, so you may want to check the K60XV
carefully for wiring errors.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Jensen
 Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:55 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using K2 with broken D1 on the K60XV


 Hi Don

 Thanks for confirming me on the use with the broken pin Diode.

 For the issue with S meter i did not explain the case very good.
 The issue I
 see is in RX not in TX . I have not testede the K60XV in TX yet.
 But in RX
 the S meter show full signal (all bar light). This do only happen in the
 transverter band on 10M or even on the 60M everything looks ok.
 Nothing are
 connected to the low power in/out on the K2.

 Br.

 Michael


  Original Message -
 From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Elecraft Reflector'
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 8:58 PM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Using K2 with broken D1 on the K60XV


  Michael,
 
  You are correct - the PIN doides D1 and D2 form the T/R switch
 for the low
  power output.
 
  If you do not use the low power output, you can operate the K2 from the
  normal BNC antenna jack as usual without that diode installed.
 
  The number of bars on the K2 LED during transmit indicate the
 approximate
  power output of the K2 - if you had the LED Display set for RF, the Low
  power output set for 1 mW maximum, and the requested power set
 for 1 mW,
  the
  expected result would be all bars lighted.
 
  If you dialed only .5 mW on the K2 power request knob, one would expect
  only
  5 of the bars lighted.  If you have all bars lighted no matter what the
  power request setting, you should look into the circuits at the lower
  right
  quadrant of the K60XV schematic (labeled XVTR ALC) - you will find the
  problem with that portion of the circuit.  I would need more detail to
  provide additional information.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  -Original Message-
 
   During  last night trying to finish op the asssembly of
 the K60XV i
   faced=a  issue,  that during the test on the transverter band (50
   MHz)   the  S=meter was showing full signal at all times. Only on
   the transverter band n=t on 60M or any other band. In desperation
   i   was  looking  for  bad  soldering=pushing  a  little  to  the
   components.  I  did  hit D1, the pind diode that ofca=se broke. I
   have  ofcause  placed an order to replace this diode, but it wil=
   not  arrive here for the weekend. Beeing a lazzy basterd,
 i like to
   use th= K2 for the weekend, but i do not like to remove the K60XV
   and put back th= components. Now the question, for what i can see
   it  will  not  be  a issue t= use the K2 with the K60XV installed
   with a broken or removed diode ifnbs=;a transverter is not used.
   Did i get that wrong ??
 
   If  any  comments  on  the  S  meter  showing full
 signal, they are
   welcome as =ell
 
   Thanks in advance
 
   OZ1BZJ
 
   Michael
 
 
 
 


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[Elecraft] Folding Solar Panel

2006-01-06 Thread Don Brown
Hi All

I finally got the solar panels mentioned below so here is a report on them.

The panel is 5.5x8 when folded and has 5 sections 4 of which have solar 
cells. There are 4 metal grommets in the corners of the end panels for 
mounting with rope or bungee cords. It comes with a 10ft cord that can be 
removed and a cigarette lighter socket adapter. The panel is housed in a 
nylon fabric and is simi-flexiable.  I measured the output at 20 volts open 
circuit and 380mA in noon sun. This is over 5 watts and the sun is not as 
bright this time of year so it should do even better in the summer when the 
sun is higher overhead. I connected it to one of my low power controllers 
and a 2.8 amp gel cell battery and it had the controller cycling within a 
few minutes although the battery was not really discharged much.

The bottom line is this would make a great panel for backpackers as it folds 
up into a small package and is only a few ounces. It is much more practical 
and lighter than a VW panel as well as more powerful. It can charge a small 
gel cell or a 10 cell pack of NiMH batteries to run a K1 or KX1 in addition 
it could also charge a cell phone, GPS, IPod or lamp as long as you 
monitored the charge time. With one of my low power controllers and a small 
1-3 amp hour gel cell you could leave the battery on charge all day without 
worry of overcharging.

Don Brown




Hi All

I just ordered 2 solar panels from Northerntool.com to experiment with.
These panels are on close out and are rated at 5 watts. They appear to be
about 4x5 when folded and fold out into 5 sections. It has a weather proof
nylon shell with grommets at the corners for mounting. This looks like a
great little panel for backpacking or other portable use. They are only $35
on sale now catalog number 339974-1615.

I have seen similar panels go for much more than this and these are higher
power than the popular VW panels. A small 2-5 amp gel cell and one of my low
power solar controllers would be great for a K1 or KX1. You can also easily
charge a 10 cell 2000-2500 mAH NiMH battery pack without a controller as
long as you did not leave them on charge too long, about 4-5 hours with full
sun. Usual disclaimers no connection with Northern Tool

Don Brown
KD5NDB
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Tom Althoff
Woo-hoo!  Time to dust off the old VISA

- Original Message - 
From: Stan Rife [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'wayne burdick' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'N2TK, Tony'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear


 When is it going to be ready??

 Stan Rife
 W5EWA
 Houston, TX
 K2 S/N 4216


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne burdick
 Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:08 AM
 To: N2TK, Tony
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear


 N2TK, Tony wrote:

  Wouldn't it be nice if an auto-tuner was built into the amp?

 It is.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


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[Elecraft] User not found

2006-01-06 Thread Thom R LaCosta

When posting to this list, does anyone else get a user not found
message for [EMAIL PROTECTED] ?



Thom

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[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

2006-01-06 Thread Craig Black
This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
to do bucket, but make it factual.

I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
a KX1 and a T1)

Should I;
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

The end results are of course different as in #2 I
would have 2 K2's.

Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

Thanks
Craig



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[Elecraft] Wanting a K2, hooked on Elecraft.

2006-01-06 Thread Stephanie Maks
I've been having so much fun with my K1 that I find myself looking at  
Elecraft's website every day, looking over the K2 specs, pricing out  
various options, reading the PDF manual...  I think I've caught the  
addiction.


The thing is I don't really need a K2.  Or rather, I don't need  
both.  I would have got the K2 to begin with but I wasn't sure about  
spending that much money on something I'd never seen or heard in  
person.  I hadn't even heard of Elecraft 2 months ago (the resident  
homebrew / QRP guru in our club told me about Elecraft in November).


So I'm trying to come up with good excuses, reasons why I 'need' a  
K2.  I've come up with one but I'm not sure how well it'd work.


Would the transmitter stages of the K1 -- driver, pa, etc -- be able  
to handle running nonstop with about a 50% duty cycle, at about 4.5  
watts?  I've been running homebrew equipment for my 10-meter beacon,  
and it's always been just adequate, never great.  I'm now looking to  
upgrade the current rig, and instead of looking for something like a  
cheap HTX-100, I thought about my K1.


With its great characteristics, the K1 should make a super beacon  
transmitter.  For the frequency, I'd tweak L1 to bring the low end up  
to just beneath my beacon frequency, and then swap C2 for something  
in the 10 pf range, NP0 for temp. stability.  That should make it  
easy to fine-tune with the 10-turn pot, so that it's right on the  
correct frequency.  These changes would be easily reversable, to  
bring it back to normal operating ranges, so nothing 'permanent'  
would be changed.


So I'm pretty sure how to make it work, I'm just not sure if the  
transmitter would be ok with the continual use.  But best of all, I'd  
have an excuse to start building a K2 for myself!


Suggestions, opinions, comments?

73 de Stephanie
va3uxb

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

2006-01-06 Thread Tom Althoff
Did you build #1014?

I did not build my #1117 but I did to some serious repair work on it.  I
then added the noise blanker, KPA-100, SSB and KAF-2.  I did the A to B
upgrade and all the other mods.

If I was facing your decision and I could afford it I would build a NEW K2
so I can have the satisfaction of a 100% self built Elecraft rig.  It is
much easier and more fun to build from scratch than you go back in and
modify a rig that was already built (IMHO).

Also if I bought a new K2 and it didn't include it already I would add the
magnetic shield mod.

You can always sell your #1014.   Also..the new K2's come with the chassis
for the 60M accessory where your 1014 and my 1117 would need to have the
bottom cover replaced.

Go for the new Craig!  Elecraft can use the extra money to invest in
inventory for the new auto-tune high power amp kits!  LOL.

73 de Tom K2TA

- Original Message - 
From: Craig Black [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2


 This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
 to do bucket, but make it factual.

 I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
 has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
 a KX1 and a T1)

 Should I;
 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
 about $140 total)...or
 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

 The end results are of course different as in #2 I
 would have 2 K2's.

 Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
 upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

 Thanks
 Craig



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RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

2006-01-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
One thing Wayne/Eric have been scrupulous about is to offer mods/updates to
current K2 owners so their rigs work every bit as well as the latest one
shipped.

So you can't make your choice based on any possible performance improvement
of a newer K2 over your older one if you have done the updates and mods. 

That said, what's not to like about having two K2s???  And if you like to
build, what's not to enjoy in assembling another one to get that second K2. 

Good rigs are like pretty girls or beautiful sunsets. They don't need to be
justified. They are reason enough just being there...

Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
to do bucket, but make it factual.

I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
a KX1 and a T1)

Should I;
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

The end results are of course different as in #2 I
would have 2 K2's.

Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

Thanks

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread rmthorne
Wayne:

Just curious, how automatic is the amp going to be?  IE I run a remote station 
and need an amp that is either auto band change or have the ability to pick the 
band with a relay (band decoder).

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC

 
 From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/01/06 Fri PM 12:27:40 EST
 To: James C. Hall MD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear
 
 
 On Jan 6, 2006, at 9:03 AM, James C. Hall MD wrote:
 
  Umm, any time frame on this ? I had to scratch it off my Christmas 
  list this past year !  Also, when will we see the 440 transverter ?
 
 Both are close to starting field testing. Other details will be posted 
 when available.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
 ---
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

2006-01-06 Thread Jeff Stai
At 12:18 PM 1/6/2006, Craig Black wrote:
1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
about $140 total)...or
2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

If you buy the new one you'll eventually end up doing the upgrade on the old 
one. 

The upgrade process was fun - I think you end up learning even more in 
the upgrade process about the rig, because there is a 'why' for each mod. 

Building a new one is fun, too.

So do both.

GL! - jeff wk6i


--
Jeff Stai   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Twisted Oak Winery  http://www.twistedoak.com/


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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Camp-Run-A-MOC Sunday Night

2006-01-06 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Just to let all know. I have reserved the cabin at the MOC Sunday night
too. This means that at least one polar bear will be on the air Sunday
evening at the Camp-Run-A-MOC. This will be a special event station
located in the Delaware Water Gap on the air from Friday afternoon until
Monday morning. If you work the station during the event, a special qsl
card is yours! 

January 13th to January 16th, 2006

Don't forget that the op who has the most QSOs with WA3WSJ during the
Camp-Run-A-MOC Special Event wins a SoftRock-40 Kit! Check it all out
below. There will be polar bears everywhere!

http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBear2005.html

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
PB #2


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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread wayne burdick

Very automatic  :)

It will accept band change data from most popular transceivers, as well 
as computers, or via complete manual controls on the front panel. It 
also has a large, easy-to-read, 20-character alphanumeric LED display 
that shows what rig you're using (A or B), the antenna (complete with 
names, e.g. YAGI), PA temperature, and PA current drain. There's a 
full menu system, etc., etc. Details pending!


73,
Wayne
N6KR


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Just curious, how automatic is the amp going to be?  IE I run a remote 
station and need an amp that is either auto band change or have the 
ability to pick the band with a relay (band decoder).


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Tom Bosscher

wayne burdick wrote:
 Details pending!




Argh.

I guess all good things come to those who wait...

When can I buy stock in Elecraft ?


73, de tom, K8TB K2 3206 es 5050


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Tom Althoff
I agree Tom.   What a great investment opportunity.  This is going to be
Elecraft's iPod!

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Bosscher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear


 wayne burdick wrote:
  Details pending!
 

 Argh.

 I guess all good things come to those who wait...

 When can I buy stock in Elecraft ?


 73, de tom, K8TB K2 3206 es 5050


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Tom Althoff
I suppose it's too late to ask for a front panel opening in the new
amplifier that matches the height and width of the K2/100 so that the
amplifier itself can be used as a docking station for the K2 and turn it
into a K2/800?   tongue firmly planted in cheek

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear


 I agree Tom.   What a great investment opportunity.  This is going to be
 Elecraft's iPod!

 - Original Message - 
 From: Tom Bosscher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 4:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear


  wayne burdick wrote:
   Details pending!
  
 
  Argh.
 
  I guess all good things come to those who wait...
 
  When can I buy stock in Elecraft ?
 
 
  73, de tom, K8TB K2 3206 es 5050
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Fri, 6 Jan 2006, wayne burdick wrote:

This is the KPADOCK2 option. Act now and receive a free set of Ginsu knives 
with your order!


But wait, there's more...order within the next 30 minutes and you'll receive
Chef Tony's exclusive High Power Mojo Mixes cookbook AND a selection of
Secret Mojo Seasonings.

Be sure to give the operator the call letters of your station to insure you're 
entered in the MojoMambo dance contest.


73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel,
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft high power linear

2006-01-06 Thread Dan Barker
So you don't forget, call before midnight tonight (in Puerto Rico, call
collect)!

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip

 This is the KPADOCK2 option. Act now and receive a free set of Ginsu
knives
 with your order!

But wait, there's more...order within the next 30 minutes and you'll receive
Chef Tony's exclusive High Power Mojo Mixes cookbook AND a selection of
Secret Mojo Seasonings.

Be sure to give the operator the call letters of your station to insure
you're
entered in the MojoMambo dance contest.

73,Thom-k3hrn
/snip

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Re: [Elecraft] Folding Solar Panel

2006-01-06 Thread Mike Harris
G'day folks,

| nylon fabric and is simi-flexiable.  I measured the output at 20 volts
open
| circuit and 380mA in noon sun. This is over 5 watts and the sun is not
as
| bright this time of year so it should do even better in the summer when
the
| sun is higher overhead.

Calculating the wattage of solar panels by using the open circuit voltage
and short circuit current does not represent a real world operating
condition, albeit a common method used by manufacturers to mug the unwary.
From bitter experience (hill top solar powered microwave telephone network
repeaters) I reached the conclusion that once you have got the nominal
solar panel/system voltage matched all you are interested in is current
into and out of the battery.  Batteries operate in a world of current, Ah
capacity, watts are virtually meaningless, only giving a rough guide to
panel dimensioning for a given load.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

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[Elecraft] RE: Weller WTCPT Solder Station

2006-01-06 Thread G. Beat

Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 13:51:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Paul Kelly spam snip
Subject: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT Solder Station
To: Elecraft

I need to replace the On OFF rocker switch for this Weller soldering
iron station. Would anyone have the parts number
and/or best place to order from?
Thanks de Paul
NN5G
=


Paul -

Weller does not sell this illuminated (neon) rocker switch separately, BUT
there are sources for this miniature illuminated rocker switch.

Weller used a 2 frequent suppliers for this illuminated rocker switch (CK /
ITT and Carling).  These rocker switches are known for soft corners on the
switch edges.
Both mfg. are changing model numbers and the original 1990s switch numbers
may show as discontinued.

Action Electronics in Santa Ana, California
http://www.action-electronics.com/

has the Carling switch for $ 4.00
Ask for Gene, he can supply the Carling replacement.
(I just discussed this with him last week).

Suitable replacements (neither have the soft edge of the Carling or CK, but
functional identically) are Cherry, Shin Chin, NKK:

Cherry (Milwaukee) LR series -- LRA22H2BBRLN  (costs about $1.00)
Allied Radio: 908-0105
Mouser: 540-LRA22H2BBRLN

Shin Chin (SCI parts) R13-73 series  -- R13-73B-R-02 (costs about $ 1.50)
Mouser:  112-R13-73B-R
Jameco: 316128

I inadvertently lost your e-mail last summer, about the neon bulb in the 
rocker switch failing after a couple months after I sold it to you.


I am sending you a replacement rocker switch in the mail -- gratis.

Greg
w9gb


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Re: [Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor

2006-01-06 Thread Jack Brindle
I would take this quite a bit farther. I use open-wire feed for two  
major reasons. 1) It is super low loss no matter the SWR, without  
fear of high voltages burning up the feedline, and, 2) (directly  
related to #1) the antenna becomes inherently broadband with a  
suitable balanced tuner making it useful on 160-10 with just a  
retune. Adding anything (Ls or Cs) along the feedline could directly  
compromise #1 and affect the characteristics of the feedline. It  
would be very interesting to see the schematic of the device, but I  
am very skeptical as to it effects on the antenna system. It would  
probably have far less detrimental effects after that first close  
strike, however...


I am very lucky to live in an area where thunderstorms are pretty  
much non-existent (maybe one a year), but when I was growing up in  
Miami I had to worry about this. Sparkplugs worked very well. I still  
worried though AND made sure the feedlines were thrown out the window  
any time there might be a storm.


As for burying them underground, not MY open-wire line... ;-)

On Jan 6, 2006, at 9:55 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Thanks for the link. It's an interesting product.  I had three  
reactions:


1) Note that the upper impedance specification is 600 ohms. Many  
(most) of
our doublets produce impedances along the feed line much, much  
greater than
that on some frequencies. That suggests the voltage ratings will be  
exceeded

as well except at QRP or QRPp power levels.

2) I also noticed that they did not mention any loss figures.  
Anything tied

between the feeder and ground will have some losses, so how much is of
interest.

3) I would never use it expecting that it'd protect my rig from a  
close or

direct strike. The surge from a near miss will be divided among the
various paths. Even if the device handles hundreds of amps of  
surge, that
may leave a very destructive current flowing through the rig in  
parallel.


Ron AC7AC


- Jack Brindle, W6FB, ex WA4FIB (Florida), ex WB5KQJ (Louisiana)
 
-



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[Elecraft] WEller SOldering Station

2006-01-06 Thread Paul Kelly
Just a word abt Greg, w9gb. I bought a Weller
soldering station from him some time ago. The light on
the on-off switch does not work properly. I didn't
really pursue doing anything abt the switch until
recently. Greg has offered to replace the switch
gratis I am very impressed with the way Greg looks
out after people he sells to and would highly
recommend him as a reputable person to do business
with ... 73 de NN5G, Paul #4378
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Re: [Elecraft] WEller SOldering Station

2006-01-06 Thread Ed K1EP
I would also second that about Greg.  He has a 
vast knowledge of Weller irons and is a great 
person to do business with.


At 1/6/2006 07:50 PM, Paul Kelly wrote:
Just a word abt Greg, w9gb. I bought a Weller
soldering station from him some time ago. The light on
the on-off switch does not work properly. I didn't
really pursue doing anything abt the switch until
recently. Greg has offered to replace the switch
gratis I am very impressed with the way Greg looks
out after people he sells to and would highly
recommend him as a reputable person to do business
with ... 73 de NN5G, Paul #4378
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Re: [Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor

2006-01-06 Thread Stuart Rohre
The device is stated to have toroid cores on each side of the line conductor 
so as to provide a DC short to the antenna side of the box.   On the 
transmit side, it may be AC coupled, which is fine when the right size cap 
is used for RF.  The cores with their windings act as RF chokes while 
allowing a DC bleed off for any antenna charge.

There was a similar device, (maybe the same reviewed in QST (?CQ) with a 
photo of the inside and it had pretty much the same circuit.  Think that was 
last year or the year before.

-Stuart
K5KVH 



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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-01-06 Thread Kevin Rock

Howdy Folks,
   Since I will be more than a bit busy tomorrow I will announce the nets 
on Sunday a little earlier than normal.


We have been slightly drier here in Western Oregon but none but the locals 
would be able to tell ;)  Logging runs apace but they sure are making slop 
of our road down the mountain.  Each morning I must dodge their large 
vehicles as they strip the limbs, cut to length, and cold deck the logs.  
On our property the logs are being shipped with a self loader but down 
below they are running specialized tools to harvest and load the logs.  
Some of their logs are of decent size; approximately 48 inches at breast 
height.  Since we are doing a precommercial thin our logs range from 6 
inches to 18 inches.  But in twenty years these logs will be between 36 
and 60 inches in diameter.  Now to be around when that happens :)


The nets will run as usual.  If the twenty meter net is as strong as my 
contact at 1700z was this morning it will be very productive.  However, 
propagation is fickle changing rapidly from fantastic to not so good.  
Just ask those fox hunters!  I spent last evening reading technical docs 
and listening to 80 and 40 meters just before bed.  Eighty meters had some 
weak but copyable CW while forty meters was more productive.  It was a 
good way to break the monotony of the manuals listening to other folks DX 
and tell jokes.  Great way to get ready to sleep.


  Please join us:
Sunday 2400z (Sunday 4pm PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 7pm PST)  7045 kHz

Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for further details.  Thank 
you for the web space Dan.


May the propagation assist you in your comms,
   ZUT,
  Kevin. KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] From The ARRL's Weekly Newsletter ...

2006-01-06 Thread Weymouth Walker

SOLE SURVIVING WEST VIRGINIA MINER KC8VKZ STILL CRITICAL

The only survivor of the January 3 mine explosion in Tallmansville, West
Virginia is Randal McCloy Jr, KC8VKZ, of Philippi, West Virginia. At press
time, he was listed in critical condition at Allegheny General Hospital in
Pittsburgh, where he is undergoing specialized treatment. Hams may wish to
send a note of support on a QSL card to Randal McCloy Jr, KC8VKZ, PO Box
223, Philippi, WV 26435. -- tnx Randy Padawer, K7RAN

=
How about it, list members ... let's fill up this family's P.O. Box ... I'm 
sending

my QSL card ...

http://weywalker.home.mindspring.com/

Wey ...
K8EAB

I apologize for this Off Topic post ... 



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[Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. K2

2006-01-06 Thread Allan Bacon

I have built K2 4670 working great, soon to add the 100W/tuner.

To learn more about this wonderful hobby, I also just bought an original K2
# 389 with the internal battery kit. This will be my QRP radio. This is also
obviously a Rev A model. It came with the following un built modules.

KNB2 Rev C dtd 3 Feb 2000

KAT2, Rev B, dtd Feb 14, 2000

KSB2, Rev B, dtd Nov 15, 199

From the Elecraft web site, there are obvious upgrades (A-B kit and all the
others) that I will incorporate, but are there any upgrades to the un built
modules? Or after doing all the basic K2 mods, should I buy the latest
modules to this K2?

All suggestions/plan of action as to a course of action would be
appreciated.

73,
Allan Bacon
KI4HRN


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 6:06 PM
To: Craig Black; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need advice - upgrade vs. new K2

Craig,

If you plan to keep it, I would say that you should upgrade the current K2
no matter what - and do ALL the upgrades and all the optional pieces too -
including the Keying waveshape change, the PLL Temperature compensation
change and the Extremely Strong signal Handling diodes (no parts kit for
this last one, but it takes only 2 1N4148 diodes).  You will end up with a
K2 that performs just like a new one - it will only have a few more
components mounted on the bottom of the board, and you will not have an AGC
Threshold pot (unless you squeeze a tiny trimmer in there). Do change the
Filter crystals too.  No-one will know it has been upgraded unless they know
what to look for.  I can supply photos of my fully upgraded SN 0020 should
there be any doubt.

As far as a new K2 - well, if you want 2 of them, then the upgrade plus the
new build is the only way to go for economy.  I don't know what financial
constraints you may have, but the outlay for an upgraded K2 plus a new K2
will certainly be less than buying 2 new ones!

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 This falls into the help me rationalize what I want
 to do bucket, but make it factual.

 I am an owner of a K2 sn 1014 who loves to build. It
 has SSB, NB, 160M, auto tuner and battery. (Also have
 a KX1 and a T1)

 Should I;
 1. Upgrade the K2 and add the KP100 (Upgrades are
 about $140 total)...or
 2. Buy a new K2 with the SSB option and KP100 ?

 The end results are of course different as in #2 I
 would have 2 K2's.

 Are there any comments on installing the full boat of
 upgrades required for an old K2 to get it current ?

 Thanks
 Craig



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