Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter
Correct, in my experience, raising any practical vertical from ground mounted even up to 10 ft off the ground and using drooping radials does it much good. 73, 72 Todd WD0T - Original Message - From: "Leigh L. Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mark Saunders, KJ7BS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 11:00 PM Subject: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter > The stock PAC-12 does pretty well; in the HFPack tests it was less than > 1dB down from a 16' wire with a single elevated radial on 20M. > The MP1 performed similarly. I would expect the Buddistick that > Elecraft sells to be in similar territory. I don't think that the > loading coil is a big issue, at least on 20M. > > At the last AmTech day (http://www.am-tech.info) I worked Japan on 20M > with 10W SSB and my K2, no problem. It's a good quick DX antenna, with > the low angle of radiation you expect from a vertical. > > Kristen K6WX has done some experiments with the PAC-12 coil, radials, > and elements and discussed it at AmTech day , and reported that raising > the high current point by putting more aluminum rod below the coil and > using 3-wire (instead of 2) and longer radials to reduce ground loss > does more for getting out than spacing the coil out. Pacific Antenna > sells additional rods, or you can make your own with a tapping tool and > rod from the hardware store. I imagine that Budd and Vern have similar > things going, so I think no matter what short vertical you choose, > you'll have plenty of options to experiment. > > Leigh / WA5ZNU > > Mark Saunders, KJ7BS wrote: > > Ok, I've read about the PAC-12 antenna and I'm almost convinced to get/build > > one. > > > > It's a short vertical, right? > > What is its performance? > > It's got to be a compromise, right? > > Would a larger coil diameter with wider spacing between the winds improve > > performance? > > > > Mark Saunders, KJ7BS > > Glendale, AZ > > = > > > > > > > > Leigh WA5ZNU convinced me to build a PAC-12 antenna early on, but > > I never had much luck with it. It doesn't work in my back yard > > at all... I brought it to our cabin a couple of times and couldn't > > figure out what I was doing wrong. I could hear "OK", but no one > > could hear me. > > > > > > > > 73 de chris K6DBG > > ___ > > > > > > > __ > QRP-L mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter
The stock PAC-12 does pretty well; in the HFPack tests it was less than 1dB down from a 16' wire with a single elevated radial on 20M. The MP1 performed similarly. I would expect the Buddistick that Elecraft sells to be in similar territory. I don't think that the loading coil is a big issue, at least on 20M. At the last AmTech day (http://www.am-tech.info) I worked Japan on 20M with 10W SSB and my K2, no problem. It's a good quick DX antenna, with the low angle of radiation you expect from a vertical. Kristen K6WX has done some experiments with the PAC-12 coil, radials, and elements and discussed it at AmTech day , and reported that raising the high current point by putting more aluminum rod below the coil and using 3-wire (instead of 2) and longer radials to reduce ground loss does more for getting out than spacing the coil out. Pacific Antenna sells additional rods, or you can make your own with a tapping tool and rod from the hardware store. I imagine that Budd and Vern have similar things going, so I think no matter what short vertical you choose, you'll have plenty of options to experiment. Leigh / WA5ZNU Mark Saunders, KJ7BS wrote: Ok, I've read about the PAC-12 antenna and I'm almost convinced to get/build one. It's a short vertical, right? What is its performance? It's got to be a compromise, right? Would a larger coil diameter with wider spacing between the winds improve performance? Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ = Leigh WA5ZNU convinced me to build a PAC-12 antenna early on, but I never had much luck with it. It doesn't work in my back yard at all... I brought it to our cabin a couple of times and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. I could hear "OK", but no one could hear me. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter
Yesit is a compromise...all short antenna are.but it did very well in the HFPack antenna "shootout", a comparision test of various portable antennas. See info on the HFPack web site : http://hflink.com/hfpack/index.html Rich k2cpe K2 #1102 Mark Saunders, KJ7BS wrote: Ok, I've read about the PAC-12 antenna.. What is its performance?. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re cord etc
I once had a terrible time stringing a dial cord... And the song I heard was "I hold my pants up with a piece of twine; Because you're mine, please pull the twine!" 73 and running fast, John AI4JH - Original Message - From: "Thom R LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BRYAN TAYLOR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Elecraft" Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 8:13 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re cord etc On Mon, 20 Mar 2006, BRYAN TAYLOR wrote: Wasn't it Snozzle Durante who found the lost cord ? Or did it come from that old "Mountain Music" Standard. Just say you're mine, I'll pull the twine. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 # 5422 Control Board Problems?
Hi Elecraft K2 Experts :) I've started building K2 # 5422, and have finished Control Board. Couple of dumb questions - might keep my "ship" on course: 1. What is "numbering convention" of standard IC packages - starting with Pin 1 - does numbering go down that side and wrap back on other side, back to pin across from Pin 1? (I know this is basic, but .) 2. What is the "lettering convention" of standard TO-92 transistor packages - from front flat side? (collector, base, etc.) 3. Measuring all the ohmeter resistance checks at the end of Control Board section - I'm getting some resistance readings much less than manual's table values? (I'm using an analog meter VM) I might try to send Control Board (# 5422) back to Elecraft's support desk, for a checkup of this first board - for peace of mind. It took 4 days, part time, to build Control Board. It "Looks" good. Fred N3CSY Spring Hill, FL __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter
Ok, I've read about the PAC-12 antenna and I'm almost convinced to get/build one. It's a short vertical, right? What is its performance? It's got to be a compromise, right? Would a larger coil diameter with wider spacing between the winds improve performance? Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ = Leigh WA5ZNU convinced me to build a PAC-12 antenna early on, but I never had much luck with it. It doesn't work in my back yard at all... I brought it to our cabin a couple of times and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. I could hear "OK", but no one could hear me. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter
What's that saying? "A good antenna can over come a bad rig. But a good rig can't over come a bad antenna". n5vwn - Original Message - From: "Chris Kantarjiev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 8:33 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter I've been making do with a really lousy doublet made of 24g zip cord at my home QTH for the few months I've had my general. I've made some contacts, but not gotten very far - 3W to Seattle from Palo Alto isn't going to impress anyone on this list (though making any contacts at all puts me in an elite portion of humanity, I realize :-) Leigh WA5ZNU convinced me to build a PAC-12 antenna early on, but I never had much luck with it. It doesn't work in my back yard at all... I brought it to our cabin a couple of times and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. I could hear "OK", but no one could hear me. I spent some time with it and an analyzer and learned a big lesson: that center section with the feedpoint is not symmetrical. It matters a lot that you send the signal up into the whip, not down into the ground. Jeez. Last night I played with the Flying Piggies and my might KX1 sent its signal all the way to Oklahoma City. Got 339 ... more work is needed before I can contemplate WAS, but it's definitely encouraging! Oink oink :-) 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Yaesu FT 301 SD Mods
Can any of you gentlemen (of sterling character) point me in the right direction? I think I have had most every kind of Qrp rig in the past 40 years but this one. I couldn't resist when I saw this homeless waif on the block! and I pluncked down the asking price.Ain't no fool like an old fool! Thanks, all help appreciated.And my apologies to Elecraft! 73's John KF7OM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New K2
Brent Sutphin wrote: I have a new K2 on the way, just couldn't stand it any longer. Hope it turns out as good as my old trustworthy #2571. Just curious, what's the latest serial number being shipped? Brent WB4X I received #5419 last week. Got through Alignment and Test Part 1 Saturday, just before I ran out of solder... =-O Bob WB0BS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New K2
I have a new K2 on the way, just couldn't stand it any longer. Hope it turns out as good as my old trustworthy #2571. Just curious, what's the latest serial number being shipped? Brent WB4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 build - Control board Resistor SIPs not marked right.
Keith KD1E asked: I've been installing one component at a time and soldering it in. The assembly instructions call for installing many and then soldering them later. I assume this is because you're likely to find you have a wrong component in when you get to further down the list and discover you can't find the one you need and have one that isn't called for. With that assumption I've been carefully verifying the markings on the component and on the board before I install & solder. Am I doing OK? You'll find many of the later Elecraft manuals call for installing and soldering one part at a time. Either way is okay. I prefer the one part at a time method for a couple of reasons. One is that I hate dealing with a nest of leads all sticking out on the other side of the board. Second is that it's very easy while soldering to move a lead slightly so the part on the other side is no longer sitting against the board, and it's not noticed until it's been soldered. Of course you can reheat while pressing down on the part, but that's just extra work as far as I'm concerned. Like you, I hate to rework and go to great lengths to avoid it. So I use this approach: 1) Read the step. 2) Find the part and confirm its value by looking at it or measuring it if I'm not sure. 3) Find the location on the board and confirm that's the correct location by looking back at the step (It's amazing how often C9 becomes C19 in my head!) 4) Place the part on the board. 5) Check the step and confirm both the position and value of the part (It's always a good idea to orient parts so they can be read after installation to aid troubleshooting at some future date, if necessary, unless the part only goes one way due to polarity, etc.) 6) Solder the part in place and clip the leads as instructed. 7) Check off the step in the manual. That process becomes automatic and I've only had to remove/reposition one part to date. And that one was because I was too busy thinking about photographing the step for the manual. When I was sitting at the computer editing the photo to illustrate the step I was reading the numbers of the part (multi-pin RP5 in the KX1 of all things) and looking at the procedure and suddenly I realized the numbers didn't match. A quick check confirmed that I had worded the step correctly but put the wrong on the board and then photographed it for Figure 4! Aaaargh!!! (And yes, I did take it off, but it's not something I'd recommend doing on purpose...). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re cord etc
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006, BRYAN TAYLOR wrote: Wasn't it Snozzle Durante who found the lost cord ? Or did it come from that old "Mountain Music" Standard. Just say you're mine, I'll pull the twine. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali follow up.
Bob W2WG wrote: Did you have the problem with the super duper contacts? No problems with the wazoo contacts; it works just fine. I have a Winkeyer and am thinking about getting the Begali. How do you like the Begali compared to other paddles? It is one of my favorites, if I want to carry a bit more when traveling; it sees a lot of use in the shack. However, I do use my KX1 in the hammock portable mode with the Elecraft paddle, and I occasionally use that same paddle quite happily with my K2 using the Elecraft adapter for it; very convenient, simple, and nice. I guess I like the extremes they represent (high / low cost, technology, and so on). Did you get the wide or standard base. Since mine is the Traveler Light, the "spreading arms" stabilization. I slap the paddles around a little, so the standard base might not be the best for me. I am fairly used to iambic keying and do not slap it around, so you may experience it differently than I; I will say it is my favorite paddle for fixed operation use, and I have a significant collection; its the one in front of my IC-7800. Rich McCabe wrote: I never would have guessed. I read that Begali has changed the contact material to help this. My Signature came last week so I hope it would be current. I hate the thought of ordering parts from Begali as it takes so long to get anything. Yes, I am impatient !! Heck, it takes a while to get an email response from his Daughter :) I see on their site they have a gold contact option, but did not see anything about silver. You are correct; I went back and checked my order, and indeed, they were gold. Funny how much I can forget in 3 months. I dont know what material I have but its gold in color. I realize it will take a while to get an answer, but you might ask them which it came with; I suspect not gold, as they require a quote for ordering the parts separately from the original order. The one contact on the arm appears pressed in and the other side is in the adjusting screw. Did your replacement include new arms and adjusting screws? I should clarify; I am using the Begali Traveler; the replacements parts were new arms and adjusting screws. 73, Rich 73 de W5SV, Dave ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
ROBERT CARROLL wrote: Is it true that the Pro III does not support Curtis Mode B? I have heard 90% of cw devotees use Mode B! Bob W2WG Hmmm ... 10% of the male population is left-handed, 10% of the general population can sleep at-will, 10% of the male population has moderate to severe color-blindness, and now I hear that 10% of the amateur population (nearly all male), who actually use CW and a keyer, use Mode A. I'm male, I'm left-handed, I sleep at-will (often in the shower), I am totally colorblind (as in monochrome), I stick to CW almost exclusively, and I use Mode A. What are the odds? I heard somewhere (maybe here) that Mode B was a design mistake in the first iambic keyer(s). Maybe that's just an urban legend. Personally, Mode B is a disaster for me if communicating anything other than "IMI" is the goal. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
I am afraid its true ! A only. Not to mention it does not show the keyer speed. Not half the keyer of the K2 ! Rich - Original Message - From: "ROBERT CARROLL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Rich McCabe'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 6:26 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 Is it true that the Pro III does not support Curtis Mode B? I have heard 90% of cw devotees use Mode B! Bob W2WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich McCabe Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 6:28 PM Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 Thanks Vic, Thats great info although most of it over my head :) The dilema I have now is I was considering ordering the new MicroHam USB keyer. It sounds like this might not be a good solution right now. To make things worse, I really am a novice at CW. I never have been very fast at it although I used to enjoy it. My last CW contact was... uh about 17 years ago. Never used anything but a straight key. So what do you think. I buy a Begali signature so now I really have to use it !! Bold move I know, but that usually works for me. Have you heard anything about the new material that Begali might be using (according to MicroHam)? I really thought a clean electrical contact was just that. Couldnt get any better ! I would like to be able to use the key on my Pro III as well but it does not support Mode B. For whatever reason I do better with that mode. 73, Rich kd0zv - Original Message - From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rich McCabe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 Rich McCabe wrote: I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? To a smaller extent, yes it does. Here's an edited excerpt from a review of the Magnetic Pro (very similar to the Signature) that I wrote for eHam: The contact alloy behaves almost like a semiconductor, maintaining a constant forward voltage drop over a range of current. Measuring the contact resistance with an ohmmeter gives 'funny' readings; it's more interesting if your meter has a diode voltage drop range, such as my Fluke 79. Anyway, the result of this is that the key does not work properly with keyers like Winkey, which use a single PIC input and voltage divider to distinguish dots and dashes. Microham has actually developed an interface to solve this problem. More broadly, however, the contact resistance behavior causes intermittent problems with other keyers that do use separate PIC inputs, such as the Logikey K3 and the internal keyers in my Elecraft K2 and TS850s. This problem can be described as an intermittent 'misfire', in which there is a delay before dot or dash generation starts after the contacts are closed. I believe that the delay is caused by the time constant of the bypass capacitors and the variable contact resistance. The Microham device is reported to help with Winkey, but does not help with the Logikey K3 (I tried it). The delay seems to appear more frequently the more heavily you use the paddle, which I suspect has to do with the thickness of an oxide layer that develops on the contacts. If you let it sit for a while, the frequency of the problem decreases. The Begali keys can be ordered with gold contacts, which I recommend. It's possible to order replacement parts, but since the contacts are part of the movable arms, the cost of the replacement kit for my key was $78. I bit the bullet and ordered the kit; hopefully it will solve the problem. In the meantime, I'm using my old Bencher. Since you already have the key, I suggest that you try it and see how it works. Some people don't report a problem, in my opinion because they don't beat on it enough. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: ht
RE: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
Is it true that the Pro III does not support Curtis Mode B? I have heard 90% of cw devotees use Mode B! Bob W2WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich McCabe Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 6:28 PM Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 Thanks Vic, Thats great info although most of it over my head :) The dilema I have now is I was considering ordering the new MicroHam USB keyer. It sounds like this might not be a good solution right now. To make things worse, I really am a novice at CW. I never have been very fast at it although I used to enjoy it. My last CW contact was... uh about 17 years ago. Never used anything but a straight key. So what do you think. I buy a Begali signature so now I really have to use it !! Bold move I know, but that usually works for me. Have you heard anything about the new material that Begali might be using (according to MicroHam)? I really thought a clean electrical contact was just that. Couldnt get any better ! I would like to be able to use the key on my Pro III as well but it does not support Mode B. For whatever reason I do better with that mode. 73, Rich kd0zv - Original Message - From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rich McCabe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 > Rich McCabe wrote: >> >> I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking >> about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I >> can run mode B. >> >> I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. >> http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html >> >> This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW >> Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this >> apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? > > To a smaller extent, yes it does. Here's an edited excerpt from a review > of the Magnetic Pro (very similar to the Signature) that I wrote for eHam: > > The contact alloy behaves almost like a semiconductor, maintaining a > constant forward voltage drop over a range of current. Measuring the > contact resistance with an ohmmeter gives 'funny' readings; it's more > interesting if your meter has a diode voltage drop range, such as my Fluke > 79. > > Anyway, the result of this is that the key does not work properly with > keyers like Winkey, which use a single PIC input and voltage divider to > distinguish dots and dashes. Microham has actually developed an interface > to solve this problem. More broadly, however, the contact resistance > behavior causes intermittent problems with other keyers that do use > separate PIC inputs, such as the Logikey K3 and the internal keyers in my > Elecraft K2 and TS850s. This problem can be described as an intermittent > 'misfire', in which there is a delay before dot or dash generation starts > after the contacts are closed. I believe that the delay is caused by the > time constant of the bypass capacitors and the variable contact > resistance. > > The Microham device is reported to help with Winkey, but does not help > with the Logikey K3 (I tried it). The delay seems to appear more > frequently the more heavily you use the paddle, which I suspect has to do > with the thickness of an oxide layer that develops on the contacts. If you > let it sit for a while, the frequency of the problem decreases. > > The Begali keys can be ordered with gold contacts, which I recommend. It's > possible to order replacement parts, but since the contacts are part of > the movable arms, the cost of the replacement kit for my key was $78. I > bit the bullet and ordered the kit; hopefully it will solve the problem. > In the meantime, I'm using my old Bencher. > > Since you already have the key, I suggest that you try it and see how it > works. Some people don't report a problem, in my opinion because they > don't beat on it enough. > -- > 73, > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
Thanks Vic, Thats great info although most of it over my head :) The dilema I have now is I was considering ordering the new MicroHam USB keyer. It sounds like this might not be a good solution right now. To make things worse, I really am a novice at CW. I never have been very fast at it although I used to enjoy it. My last CW contact was... uh about 17 years ago. Never used anything but a straight key. So what do you think. I buy a Begali signature so now I really have to use it !! Bold move I know, but that usually works for me. Have you heard anything about the new material that Begali might be using (according to MicroHam)? I really thought a clean electrical contact was just that. Couldnt get any better ! I would like to be able to use the key on my Pro III as well but it does not support Mode B. For whatever reason I do better with that mode. 73, Rich kd0zv - Original Message - From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rich McCabe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 Rich McCabe wrote: I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? To a smaller extent, yes it does. Here's an edited excerpt from a review of the Magnetic Pro (very similar to the Signature) that I wrote for eHam: The contact alloy behaves almost like a semiconductor, maintaining a constant forward voltage drop over a range of current. Measuring the contact resistance with an ohmmeter gives 'funny' readings; it's more interesting if your meter has a diode voltage drop range, such as my Fluke 79. Anyway, the result of this is that the key does not work properly with keyers like Winkey, which use a single PIC input and voltage divider to distinguish dots and dashes. Microham has actually developed an interface to solve this problem. More broadly, however, the contact resistance behavior causes intermittent problems with other keyers that do use separate PIC inputs, such as the Logikey K3 and the internal keyers in my Elecraft K2 and TS850s. This problem can be described as an intermittent 'misfire', in which there is a delay before dot or dash generation starts after the contacts are closed. I believe that the delay is caused by the time constant of the bypass capacitors and the variable contact resistance. The Microham device is reported to help with Winkey, but does not help with the Logikey K3 (I tried it). The delay seems to appear more frequently the more heavily you use the paddle, which I suspect has to do with the thickness of an oxide layer that develops on the contacts. If you let it sit for a while, the frequency of the problem decreases. The Begali keys can be ordered with gold contacts, which I recommend. It's possible to order replacement parts, but since the contacts are part of the movable arms, the cost of the replacement kit for my key was $78. I bit the bullet and ordered the kit; hopefully it will solve the problem. In the meantime, I'm using my old Bencher. Since you already have the key, I suggest that you try it and see how it works. Some people don't report a problem, in my opinion because they don't beat on it enough. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
Rich McCabe wrote: I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? To a smaller extent, yes it does. Here's an edited excerpt from a review of the Magnetic Pro (very similar to the Signature) that I wrote for eHam: The contact alloy behaves almost like a semiconductor, maintaining a constant forward voltage drop over a range of current. Measuring the contact resistance with an ohmmeter gives 'funny' readings; it's more interesting if your meter has a diode voltage drop range, such as my Fluke 79. Anyway, the result of this is that the key does not work properly with keyers like Winkey, which use a single PIC input and voltage divider to distinguish dots and dashes. Microham has actually developed an interface to solve this problem. More broadly, however, the contact resistance behavior causes intermittent problems with other keyers that do use separate PIC inputs, such as the Logikey K3 and the internal keyers in my Elecraft K2 and TS850s. This problem can be described as an intermittent 'misfire', in which there is a delay before dot or dash generation starts after the contacts are closed. I believe that the delay is caused by the time constant of the bypass capacitors and the variable contact resistance. The Microham device is reported to help with Winkey, but does not help with the Logikey K3 (I tried it). The delay seems to appear more frequently the more heavily you use the paddle, which I suspect has to do with the thickness of an oxide layer that develops on the contacts. If you let it sit for a while, the frequency of the problem decreases. The Begali keys can be ordered with gold contacts, which I recommend. It's possible to order replacement parts, but since the contacts are part of the movable arms, the cost of the replacement kit for my key was $78. I bit the bullet and ordered the kit; hopefully it will solve the problem. In the meantime, I'm using my old Bencher. Since you already have the key, I suggest that you try it and see how it works. Some people don't report a problem, in my opinion because they don't beat on it enough. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
Just chase them the other way and they fall over!! I always thought that it was the Haggis that had these legs, but as a Sassenach living in God's own country I have still a lot to learn. Peter GM8GAX - Original Message - From: "Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Thom R LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Elecraft Discussion List" Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 12:50 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick You think? Our spiders have short legs on one side and long on the other - makes it easier to run around mountains :) Who started this? Sorry Eric. 73, Geoff GM4ESD On Monday, March 20, 2006 12:02 PM, Thom R. LaCosta wrote: Look at your own good fortune, you have livestock within easy distance. Perhaps you have divulged one of the secret ingredients of Haggis? 73,Thom-k3hrn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
I kept hoping someone who knew would jump in here, but nobody has. So, I'll do it. The K2 doesn't use the same pin for dit and dah. That's how A-DET works, on separate pins. The K1 does use the dual-voltage scheme, and I have no idea about the Kixie. However, the K2 will not care one whit. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 build - Control board Resistor SIPs not marked right.
Yes, inventorying is a very good idea, and sometimes there are parts of the same value but of two different types, like a regular 25pF cap and an NPO one that's the same value, to be used in different areas. The resistors are taken care of with the K2, no problems there, but there are a lot of other parts. I found good old antistatic foam to be great for sticking the parts in, I had all my caps by value smallest to largest, etc., they the parts stick up in it so they're easy to pick up. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 20, 2006, at 2:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: Ian Stirling wrote: The most important step in my opinion is to do a full inventory, at the same time partitioning components that look similar to separate marked locations. I strongly second Ian's inventory comment, and his reasons for doing it. It's a bit of a drag, and we all want to heat up the solder station and start the "real" building, but a complete inventory will likely prevent micro, mini, and mega disasters. Also, beware of inadvertently mixing up a part value with a reference designator, there are a lot of words in the assembly instruction book, and nearly all of them are important! (e.g., and speaking from experience, starting to install "C25" and fetching a 25pf cap for it when the real value is 15pf) Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
Thanks Dave. I never would have guessed. I read that Begali has changed the contact material to help this. My Signature came last week so I hope it would be current. I hate the thought of ordering parts from Begali as it takes so long to get anything. Yes, I am impatient !! Heck, it takes a while to get an email response from his Daughter :) I see on their site they have a gold contact option, but did not see anything about silver. I dont know what material I have but its gold in color. The one contact on the arm appears pressed in and the other side is in the adjusting screw. Did your replacement include new arms and adjusting screws? 73, Rich - Original Message - From: "David F. Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rich McCabe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 4:38 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2 Rich, my solution was to order the silver contact replacement set from Begali instead, for the sake of simplicity. It took a while for the parts to arrive, but they installed very easily, and work great. The theory is correct as far as my experience goes. However, I am an amateur, not a pro, so you might get differing opinions. 73 de Dave, W5SV Rich McCabe wrote: I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? Thanks and 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
On Mar 20, 2006, at 2:32 PM, Rich McCabe wrote: I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? I have used a Begali Simplex with my K2 for probably a few thousand contacts and have never noticed any problems (nor with my TS-570D either). 73, Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2
Rich, my solution was to order the silver contact replacement set from Begali instead, for the sake of simplicity. It took a while for the parts to arrive, but they installed very easily, and work great. The theory is correct as far as my experience goes. However, I am an amateur, not a pro, so you might get differing opinions. 73 de Dave, W5SV Rich McCabe wrote: I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? Thanks and 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Begali and K2
I just bought a new Begali Signature to go with my K2/100. I was thinking about buying a MicroHam/K1EL USB CW keyer to work with my Pro III so I can run mode B. I just ran into this article about a debouncer and the Begali keys. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html This seems pretty wild to me, but thought I would toss it out the the CW Pros ! It seems the problem is related to PIC based keyers. Does this apply to the K2 and what do you think about the whole theory? Thanks and 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 build - Control board Resistor SIPs not marked right.
Ian Stirling wrote: The most important step in my opinion is to do a full inventory, at the same time partitioning components that look similar to separate marked locations. I strongly second Ian's inventory comment, and his reasons for doing it. It's a bit of a drag, and we all want to heat up the solder station and start the "real" building, but a complete inventory will likely prevent micro, mini, and mega disasters. Also, beware of inadvertently mixing up a part value with a reference designator, there are a lot of words in the assembly instruction book, and nearly all of them are important! (e.g., and speaking from experience, starting to install "C25" and fetching a 25pf cap for it when the real value is 15pf) Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 build - Control board Resistor SIPs not marked right.
On Monday 20 March 2006 15:01, Darwin, Keith wrote: > I'm trying very hard to avoid any rework. Rework means I have to take > the board to work and I don't want to do that. I believe by being > careful I should be able to avoid any rework during the process. We'll > see... Keith, I built my K2 in June last year. The most important step in my opinion is to do a full inventory, at the same time partitioning components that look similar to separate marked locations. I used two cheap drawer sets with around a hundred drawers. I marked the drawer number in the inventory pages of the manual for every item. There are many reasons for doing this. Identifying parts is easier, e.g., there may be three capacitors of the same value, and two that are similar looking but different. Identifying them and separating them is easy at this stage when some items can be identified by a process of elimination. An obvious advantage is that missing parts will be discovered and a quick delivery from Elecraft won't hold up progress. My K2 kit did not have the fiber washers used in mounting the output transistors or speaker. Having completed a full inventory in this way, every part has already been identified once and placed so that it can be retrieved with a low chance of fetching the wrong part. On fetching it to solder it in, I checked it a second time. And I made a third check with the soldering iron in my hand. I had one missing hearbeat when the construction notes referred to parts already installed, and I had not installed them. I had this awful fealing of having installed the display or a large IC that would need to be removed to install something I had missed. Luckily it was not critical. My error was that two pages had stuck together and I had skipped two pages. If I build another K2, I will make sure that turning pages results in the correct sequential page number. I'm sure triple checking every component was a key to my not needing to rework anything. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 build - Control board Resistor SIPs not marked right.
I started melting solder this weekend. Got to the part about installing 6 (or 7?) resistor SIPs on the control board. Only 1 or 2 of them were marked as indicated in the instructions. The rest were substantially different. I checked each by measuring resistance between pin 1 and pin 2, and by counting leads. Everything checked out so I installed them. Did I do OK? Also, I've been installing one component at a time and soldering it in. The assembly instructions call for installing many and then soldering them later. I assume this is because you're likely to find you have a wrong component in when you get to further down the list and discover you can't find the one you need and have one that isn't called for. With that assumption I've been carefully verifying the markings on the component and on the board before I install & solder. Am I doing OK? I'm trying very hard to avoid any rework. Rework means I have to take the board to work and I don't want to do that. I believe by being careful I should be able to avoid any rework during the process. We'll see... - Keith KD1E - - K1 12xx - - K2 5411- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Cord vs Rick
When I asked the question, "whatsa rick?", I had no idea the thread would morph into Haggis and arachnophobia. Doing a "define:rick" on Google yields: * pile in ricks; "rick hay" * crick: a painful muscle spasm especially in the neck or back (`rick' and `wrick' are British) * haystack: a stack of hay * twist: twist suddenly so as to sprain; "wrench one's ankle"; "The wrestler twisted his shoulder"; "the hikers sprained their ankles when they fell"; "I turned my ankle and couldn't walk for several days" wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn * Rick is a 2003 movie based on Verdi's Rigoletto starring Bill Pullman and written by Daniel Handler. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_(movie) * Rick was the professional name used by a long-haired, male model of Chinese origin, most famous for appearing in The All-Nude Workout Video (1992), which was widely marketed in the UK throughout the 1990s. He appears along with Susan and David Martin, a naturist couple, performing a variety of aerobic exercises and also practising weightlifting. Additionally, he featured in the video guide to naturist photography, Shooting the Nude in the Nude. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_(model) Note: No mention of lumber, wood, cooling off, warming up, fires, stoves, haggis, gas, spiders, or Yorkshiremen, clothed or not. After 18 years of heating with wood and wondering if there was a better way to warm up in winter, we discovered that someone had already invented central heat. Fred K6DGW Toasty in Auburn CA CM98lw K2 #4398 (+KPA100, KAT2, KAT100, & KSB2 that still doesn't work) KX1 #897 (+30m & autotuner, all of which do work great) SG? (that I have yet to build) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Dual Receive K2
Hi I did this some time ago if you have a look at my website (which has a rather long URL) . This can be accessed by Googling 'G3PJT' and following the link for the K2 73 Bob G3PJT -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 268.2.6/286 - Release Date: 3/20/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RTTY Filter Settings
Thanks to Don's and Tom's reminder that I must have my FCTR plugged in to TP2, I now have my CW and SSB filters set the way I want them. Now, I would like to know the latest and best suggestions on the RTTY filter widths and which frequency markers to insert on Spectrogram. Do you use two markers 170 Hz apart? Roger K8RS K2/100 #3478 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re cord etc
- Original Message - From: "BRYAN TAYLOR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wasn't it Snozzle Durante who found the lost cord ? The Moody Blues spent a lot of time looking. Simon Brown --- http://blog.hb9drv.ch/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re:Elecraft cords
Or was that chords ? Bryan GM3AKF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re cord etc
Wasn't it Snozzle Durante who found the lost cord ? 73 all de GM3AKF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
> Well, a cord is a fraction of a cord; more specifically, a 8'x4'x24" > rick is 1/2 cord, but if 16" pieces, it is 1/3 cord; one-third of a cord > is also sometimes called a fireplace cord, stove cord, rick, or rank. > Webster defines a rick simply as a pile. Interesting. I knew about cord and rick dimensions from my youth. The term I run into around here is "face cord". I'm guessing that it's just another term for rick. It's been a cold winter at the cabin; last year's wood isn't dry enough to burn yet, and we've used up what we stacked last summer. Oh well. A lot of our wood is 'deadfall' from the creek ... we had a really good crop going, until a particularly high flood which swept it all (including a few 15' telephone pole-sized chunks) downstream somewhere. We may have to search farther afield this year. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Wow, antennas really do matter
I've been making do with a really lousy doublet made of 24g zip cord at my home QTH for the few months I've had my general. I've made some contacts, but not gotten very far - 3W to Seattle from Palo Alto isn't going to impress anyone on this list (though making any contacts at all puts me in an elite portion of humanity, I realize :-) Leigh WA5ZNU convinced me to build a PAC-12 antenna early on, but I never had much luck with it. It doesn't work in my back yard at all... I brought it to our cabin a couple of times and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. I could hear "OK", but no one could hear me. I spent some time with it and an analyzer and learned a big lesson: that center section with the feedpoint is not symmetrical. It matters a lot that you send the signal up into the whip, not down into the ground. Jeez. Last night I played with the Flying Piggies and my might KX1 sent its signal all the way to Oklahoma City. Got 339 ... more work is needed before I can contemplate WAS, but it's definitely encouraging! Oink oink :-) 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
When I asked the question, "whatsa rick?", I had no idea the thread would morph into Haggis and arachnophobia. Doing a "define:rick" on Google yields: * pile in ricks; "rick hay" * crick: a painful muscle spasm especially in the neck or back (`rick' and `wrick' are British) * haystack: a stack of hay * twist: twist suddenly so as to sprain; "wrench one's ankle"; "The wrestler twisted his shoulder"; "the hikers sprained their ankles when they fell"; "I turned my ankle and couldn't walk for several days" wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn * Rick is a 2003 movie based on Verdi's Rigoletto starring Bill Pullman and written by Daniel Handler. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_(movie) * Rick was the professional name used by a long-haired, male model of Chinese origin, most famous for appearing in The All-Nude Workout Video (1992), which was widely marketed in the UK throughout the 1990s. He appears along with Susan and David Martin, a naturist couple, performing a variety of aerobic exercises and also practising weightlifting. Additionally, he featured in the video guide to naturist photography, Shooting the Nude in the Nude. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_(model) Note: No mention of lumber, wood, cooling off, warming up, fires, stoves, haggis, gas, spiders, or Yorkshiremen, clothed or not. After 18 years of heating with wood and wondering if there was a better way to warm up in winter, we discovered that someone had already invented central heat. Fred K6DGW Toasty in Auburn CA CM98lw K2 #4398 (+KPA100, KAT2, KAT100, & KSB2 that still doesn't work) KX1 #897 (+30m & autotuner, all of which do work great) SG? (that I have yet to build) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
I "woodn't" have believed it had I not read it all for myself :-) K4TO Thom R LaCosta wrote: On Mon, 20 Mar 2006, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) wrote: - Original Message - From: "W2AGN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have been wondering how come the "OT POLICE" haven't pounced on this thread yet, then I realized, it was leading up to the Elecraft announcement of a new, wood powered transceiver. One piece of split Oak will give 5W out for 6 hours. I understand the official announcement will be April 1st. I am sure we would all pine for a radio like that. ANd this liast, of course, is where one could get the answers to any knotty questions about the above. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote: You think? Our spiders have short legs on one side and long on the other - makes it easier to run around mountains :) Hmmm, another Elecraft secret out of the cave(bag)...the ELMountaineer... Who started this? Sorry Eric. When great minds go astray. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006, Simon Brown (HB9DRV) wrote: - Original Message - From: "W2AGN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have been wondering how come the "OT POLICE" haven't pounced on this thread yet, then I realized, it was leading up to the Elecraft announcement of a new, wood powered transceiver. One piece of split Oak will give 5W out for 6 hours. I understand the official announcement will be April 1st. I am sure we would all pine for a radio like that. ANd this liast, of course, is where one could get the answers to any knotty questions about the above. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
- Original Message - From: "W2AGN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have been wondering how come the "OT POLICE" haven't pounced on this thread yet, then I realized, it was leading up to the Elecraft announcement of a new, wood powered transceiver. One piece of split Oak will give 5W out for 6 hours. I understand the official announcement will be April 1st. I am sure we would all pine for a radio like that. Simon Brown --- http://blog.hb9drv.ch/ Holidays: April 10 - 21, 2006 as GD4ELI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV relay buzzing in high power environment
Got my XV50 integrated into the Intergalactic Roving Batttle Jitney (TM) yesterday, and I'm QRV with 400 watts .. K2 feeding XV50 feeding TE Systems amp. I got a hold of a buddy of mine about 30 miles away for some on-air testing while I diddled around with SSBA/C settings. Problem is if I enable *any* level of compression, the XV "buzzes" on voice peaks and my signal sounds crappy. Best results were with SSBA=3 and SSBC=1-1 (using an MD-2 desk mike). Evidently some of the RF is making it's way back inside the XV. Cabling is all good, shielded cable to key the amp/Accuvolt, normal shielded auxbus cable. Even with the 1-1 setting I get the buzzing whenever I drive the amp much above 300W. Anyone else seen this and/or have any suggestions? I'll be setting up 144 and 222 this evening, but they don't have quite the power capability of my 6M station .. I'll report in the next day or two whether they show the same behaviour .. de john/w1rt getting ready for the sprint season .. 144 is on april 4th! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
Kevin Rock wrote: Twice?? Hmmm... I think your count is awry ;) First you cut it. Sit down and cool off. Then you split it. Sit down and cool off. Then you transport it to the wood shed. In my case this is via wheelbarrow. Sit down and cool off. Now you get to carry it into the house. In this case you are trying to get warm so no cool down period ;) Then you burn it. There is also the part where you clean the chimney and carry out the ashes. I think I will leave that out of the equation. Cut + Split + Haul + Burn = 4 warming experiences minimum. Take care city slickers and country folk alike, Spring is swift upon us. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS I have been wondering how come the "OT POLICE" haven't pounced on this thread yet, then I realized, it was leading up to the Elecraft announcement of a new, wood powered transceiver. One piece of split Oak will give 5W out for 6 hours. I understand the official announcement will be April 1st. -- _ _ _ _ _ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ John L. Sielke ( W ) ( 2 ) ( A ) ( G ) ( N ) http://w2agn.net \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn/ "CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON - AND PROUD OF IT!" ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
You think? Our spiders have short legs on one side and long on the other - makes it easier to run around mountains :) Who started this? Sorry Eric. 73, Geoff GM4ESD On Monday, March 20, 2006 12:02 PM, Thom R. LaCosta wrote: Look at your own good fortune, you have livestock within easy distance. Perhaps you have divulged one of the secret ingredients of Haggis? 73,Thom-k3hrn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006, Kevin Rock wrote: Cut + Split + Haul + Burn = 4 warming experiences minimum. Take care city slickers and country folk alike, Spring is swift upon us. Of course there is the "being gentrified" area Walk dog to find contruction sites-dog sees rats, chases come home and cool down Walk to shopping center and "aquire" shopping cart Come home and cool down Walk to Construction site and load cart - bring wood home - park cart in yard Come home and cool down Carry wood into house Cool Off 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote: Lucky you! We Scottish country dwellers shiver in our caves and watch spiders. What does 'warm' mean? Look at your own good fortune, you have livestock within easy distance. Perhaps you have divulged one of the secret ingredients of Haggis? 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
- Original Message - From: "Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lucky you! We Scottish country dwellers shiver in our caves and watch spiders. What does 'warm' mean? Warm means two sheepdogs. http://www.showdogs.dk/images/Faviteas%20Cali.jpg Simon Brown --- http://blog.hb9drv.ch/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
In a message dated 3/20/06 3:53:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Lucky you! We Scottish country dwellers shiver in our caves and watch > spiders. What does 'warm' mean? > http://www.phespirit.info/montypython/four_yorkshiremen.htm 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
Lucky you! We Scottish country dwellers shiver in our caves and watch spiders. What does 'warm' mean? 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 3:26 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick You 'city slickers' are missing out on half the 'fun'. They say that firewood warms you twice, although I will admit that the extra warming is no fun here in North Carolina in the summertime. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cord vs. rick
Kevin Rock wrote: Howdy, In this neck of the woods a rick is another name for a face cord. A face cord is 4 x 8 x the size you cut for your stove. My stove runs on gas! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
