[Elecraft] KX1 transmit audio hum/buzz

[Eric Ward]

I installed KXB3080 about a week ago, and just redid L3 with 18 winds.
I had not checked my transmit audio since first building the rig.  I 
just checked it transmitting into a dummy load, listening on my Icom 706 
with a coax jumper as an antenna. 
I have a distinct buzz mixed in with the 600Hz tone.  It is worst on 
30m, but also audible on 20 and 40.  It gets much worse when I re 
install the KXAT1--with the tuner installed, the buzz is louder than the 
600Hz tone on 30m, and also louder than without tuner on the other 
bands.  Current draw is within a few percent of the values suggested in 
the KXB3080 manual; with the display off:

69mA on 80m
47.2mA on 40m
48.6mA on 30m
47.1mA on 20m
I may have had bad audio on 30m forever--I have never had a 30m QSO, so 
no signal reports on that band.  But I do not recall anything but a nice 
clean tone when I tested after I completed the build a couple of years ago.
When I go into tune mode, the power output shown fluctuates +/- 0.3W or 
so (e.g. between 3.2 and 3.5W)--I do not remember it doing this before I 
did the L3 mod--not sure whether this is related to the problem, but it 
seems likely.
I get the same buzz whether I use a 12V linear power supply or internal 
Li batteries.
I have the N0SS zero beat indicator installed, but if I unplug that 
board, it makes no difference, so I am assuming it is not involved in 
the problem.
I searched the list for KX1 transmit audio problems but came up blank. 
Any ideas anyone?

Many thanks and 73
Eric N0HHS KX1 #670

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[Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued

[rootboy]

> John,

> For the time being (until you solve the current problem) the only voltages
> at U6 that matter are pins 1, 2 and 3 - and those are correct.  The other
> pins will likely fall into line after you have this problem fixed and if not
> there is another problem with the VCO.

> Right now, the voltages being fed out of U6 pin 1 are correct for the
> stimulus you provided (CAL FCTR and tapping BAND+ and BAND-).  Now check to
> see if that (proper) 0 to 8 volt swing between pressing BAND+ and BAND- is
> carried on through R19 and then through the RP2 sections and then onto the
> cathodes of D16 and D17.  If you get a decent voltage swing between BAND+
> and BAND- (you can expect a bit of voltage drop on the 8 volts end) at the
> varactor cathodes, then look for something else wrong in the PLL Reference
> oscillator (upper left of the schematic sheet - but only as far to the right
> as TP3), the PLL chip does not matter until the PLL Reference oscillator is
> functioning properly.

> If you do get a good voltage swing at the varactors, then all I can say is
> either Q19 oscillations quit when the varactor capacitance is reduced, or
> there is something wrong at C84, C85, D17 or D16 which is stopping the
> oscillation.  If you suspect Q19 itself, you could try swapping it with one
> of the J310s on the Control Board at Q6 or Q7 (these in a less-critical
> audio circuit rather than being used as an RF Oscillator).

> 73,
> Don W3FPR


Everything checked out okay, so what I think I'll do is to replace D16, D17, 
Q19, and the caps. Thanks again for all of the help, and I'll be back in a few 
days (after I get the new parts installed) with hopefully a working radio.


Thanks again,

John
 


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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Elecraft XV50, XV144, XV222 or XV432...

All you have to do is order the one of your choice. The K2 is all equipped
to drive one CW/SSB at least. FM is almost all repeater stuff on vertical
antennas, anyway, while CW / SSB is horizontally polarized most places.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
> Perhaps a low powered 6m/2m CW/SSB with FM option rig would be a
> reasonable project? Something designed as a starting point for the 
> VHF/UHF weak signal operators' basic radio.

Great idea, even without the FM option. 
TenTec discontinued its "6n2" rig. Insufficient demand?

Scott N1AIA
\\

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[Russ Hines]

That's my guess as well.

I went to Dayton last year, planning on picking up a Ten Tec 6N2 xcvr.  
Not one in the house.  Quizzed the sales fellow at the Ten Tec booth, he 
gave me some story about non-leaded components (parts with no lead in 
them) being in short supply.  It seems Ten Tec tries to use low or no 
lead parts to accommodate product laws in Europe.  Yeah, okay, 
whatever.  Not a word was said about them discontinuing the radio.  A 
few months later, a phone call to Sevierville confirmed the 6N2 was no more.


I'm sure sales slipped because of all those DC-to-daylight rigs on the 
market.  Why buy a 6N2 at $649, when an FT-817 could be had on the 
street for $50-$100 less?


73,
Russ
WB8ZCC


Scott Richardson wrote:
Perhaps a low powered 6m/2m CW/SSB with FM option rig would be a 
reasonable project? Something designed as a starting point for the 
VHF/UHF weak signal operators' basic radio.



Great idea, even without the FM option. 
TenTec discontinued its "6n2" rig. Insufficient demand?


Scott N1AIA


  

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RE: [Elecraft] LED light

[Jeremiah McCarthy]

> [Original Message]
> From: EricJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Alexandra Carter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: 
> Date: 4/11/06 3:59:11 PM
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] LED light
>
> I thought they were all white. Mine is. I slip a piece of red acetate
> between the LED and case sometimes, but the LED itself is white.
>
> Eric
> KE6US
> Ww.ke6us.com 
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alexandra Carter
> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:35 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LED light
>
> The LED light in the KX1 is red, and will not allow you to read color
codes.
> That is not its purpose. 73 de Alex NS6Y

I am talking about an LED breast pocket flashlight, not the LED built into
the KX1...Unless Elecraft has made a change since last week, the LED in the
KX1 is white, not red and is intended for log keeping in the dark away from
the QTH...

The LED penlight is listed on page 456 in Stanley Supply's catalog and
comes in 2 body colors, black or gold...It is available in 3 LED colors,
white, blue, or red...Mine is white and it's part number is 434-018 priced
at $19.95...When it is shined on installed capacitors and resistors in the
radio, the numbers and colors fly out at you...

Jerry, wa2dkg





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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[Scott Richardson]

> Perhaps a low powered 6m/2m CW/SSB with FM option rig would be a 
> reasonable project? Something designed as a starting point for the 
> VHF/UHF weak signal operators' basic radio.

Great idea, even without the FM option. 
TenTec discontinued its "6n2" rig. Insufficient demand?

Scott N1AIA


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

For the time being (until you solve the current problem) the only voltages
at U6 that matter are pins 1, 2 and 3 - and those are correct.  The other
pins will likely fall into line after you have this problem fixed and if not
there is another problem with the VCO.

Right now, the voltages being fed out of U6 pin 1 are correct for the
stimulus you provided (CAL FCTR and tapping BAND+ and BAND-).  Now check to
see if that (proper) 0 to 8 volt swing between pressing BAND+ and BAND- is
carried on through R19 and then through the RP2 sections and then onto the
cathodes of D16 and D17.  If you get a decent voltage swing between BAND+
and BAND- (you can expect a bit of voltage drop on the 8 volts end) at the
varactor cathodes, then look for something else wrong in the PLL Reference
oscillator (upper left of the schematic sheet - but only as far to the right
as TP3), the PLL chip does not matter until the PLL Reference oscillator is
functioning properly.

If you do get a good voltage swing at the varactors, then all I can say is
either Q19 oscillations quit when the varactor capacitance is reduced, or
there is something wrong at C84, C85, D17 or D16 which is stopping the
oscillation.  If you suspect Q19 itself, you could try swapping it with one
of the J310s on the Control Board at Q6 or Q7 (these in a less-critical
audio circuit rather than being used as an RF Oscillator).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Thanks for the help Don. :)
>
> I tried your suggestions (and a few others as well) and L31
> (which is a 12 µHz inductor on my unit) is the correct part.
>
> Diodes D16, D17, & D18, are in properly and pass their in-circuit
> tests just fine.
>
> R19, RP2, R20, R21, RFC14, C84, C85, Q19, RFC14, Q19 and the
> thermistor board are all installed properly and certainly look good.
>
>
> Scott at Elecraft suggested holding the 4, 5, & 6 buttons while
> turning the unit on (which showed "INFO 201") to see if that
> corrected the problem but no luck there either.
>
> I took reading off of U6 while switching between "BAND -" and
> "BAND +" in "CAL FCTR" mode, and here's what I got:
>
> BAND +, The display reads 488Hz  (Bad)
>
> U6 Readings:
> Pin 1 = 7.63V
> Pin 2 = 4.09V
> Pin 3 = 4.09V
> Pin 4 = 0V
> Pin 5 = 3.96V
> Pin 6 = 4.91V
> Pin 7 = .02V
> Pin 8 = 7.95V
>
>
> BAND -, The display reads 12086Hz  (Good)
>
> U6 Readings:
> Pin 1 = .00V
> Pin 2 = .09V
> Pin 3 = .02
> Pin 4 = 0V
> Pin 5 = 3.96V
> Pin 6 = 3.96V
> Pin 7 = 1.64V
> Pin 8 = 7.95V
>
>
> Pins 2, 3, 6, especially Pin 6, are out of tolerance.
>
> Taking resistance readings off of the thermistor board looks good.
>
> Pins 6/7 to Pin 8 reads about 5k ohms.
> Pins 4/5 to Pin 8 reads about 295 ohms.
> Pins 2/3 to Pins 4/5 reads about 1.96k ohms.
> Pins 6/7 to Pin 1 reads about 8.76k ohms.
> Pin 1 to Pins 2/3 reads about 1.8k ohms.
>
> All of these readings more or less mathematically work out to
> what the meter says (with the exception of the second reading
> which is 8V to Ground so no surprise there).
>
> The output from the DAC is 4.092 (4,092 counts), so it's near its
> top end.
>
>
> My partner suggests removing R19 and inserting a pot to swing the
> voltage going into the oscillator circuit from 0 to 7-ish volts
> to see if that stabilizes.
>
>
> I got another suggestion to double check D36 for proper
> installation. It's in correctly, and checks out (in circuit) okay.
>
> Possibly I left a component out, so I'll double check that I
> didn't skip anything during the installation phase.
>
>
> Thanks again for all the help,
>
> John
>
>

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[Elecraft] FS: Palm m125

[Fernando Quinones]

The Palm can be used to log your QSO's. I've seen but never
tried to control the K2 with it. Anyhow, is in excess to my needs.

Comes with leather case.

$35.00 + shipping.

Fernando  N2FQ




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[Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued

[rootboy]

It looks like the original was lost when my Bellsouth email session timed out. 
Hopefully it won't be posted twice (my apologies in advance).


> Be certain you have correctly installed L31 and that it is the 10 uH
> shielded inductor.  Resistor R115 is about the same size - is there a
> possibility that you exchanged these parts?

> Be certain you have D16, D17 and D18 inserted the proper way around (the
> Parts Placement Diagram is handy for checking diode orientation).  Check the
> soldering on these diodes.

> Be certain R19 and RP2 is well soldered.  While you are checking soldering,
> also check R20 and R21, RFC14 C84 and C85, and Q19.  You can check the
> toroid lead soldering for RFC14 by measuring the resistance to ground from
> the source of Q19 - expect a small bit more than 270 ohms.

> 73,
> Don W3FPR


Thanks for the help Don. :)

I tried your suggestions (and a few others as well) and L31 (which is a 12 µHz 
inductor on my unit) is the correct part.

Diodes D16, D17, & D18, are in properly and pass their in-circuit tests just 
fine.

R19, RP2, R20, R21, RFC14, C84, C85, Q19, RFC14, Q19 and the thermistor board 
are all installed properly and certainly look good.


Scott at Elecraft suggested holding the 4, 5, & 6 buttons while turning the 
unit on (which showed "INFO 201") to see if that corrected the problem but no 
luck there either.

I took reading off of U6 while switching between "BAND -" and "BAND +" in "CAL 
FCTR" mode, and here's what I got:

BAND +, The display reads 488Hz  (Bad)

U6 Readings:
Pin 1 = 7.63V
Pin 2 = 4.09V
Pin 3 = 4.09V
Pin 4 = 0V
Pin 5 = 3.96V
Pin 6 = 4.91V
Pin 7 = .02V
Pin 8 = 7.95V


BAND -, The display reads 12086Hz  (Good)

U6 Readings:
Pin 1 = .00V
Pin 2 = .09V
Pin 3 = .02
Pin 4 = 0V
Pin 5 = 3.96V
Pin 6 = 3.96V
Pin 7 = 1.64V
Pin 8 = 7.95V


Pins 2, 3, 6, especially Pin 6, are out of tolerance.

Taking resistance readings off of the thermistor board looks good.

Pins 6/7 to Pin 8 reads about 5k ohms.
Pins 4/5 to Pin 8 reads about 295 ohms.
Pins 2/3 to Pins 4/5 reads about 1.96k ohms.
Pins 6/7 to Pin 1 reads about 8.76k ohms.
Pin 1 to Pins 2/3 reads about 1.8k ohms.

All of these readings more or less mathematically work out to what the meter 
says (with the exception of the second reading which is 8V to Ground so no 
surprise there).

The output from the DAC is 4.092 (4,092 counts), so it's near its top end. 


My partner suggests removing R19 and inserting a pot to swing the voltage going 
into the oscillator circuit from 0 to 7-ish volts to see if that stabilizes.


I got another suggestion to double check D36 for proper installation. It's in 
correctly, and checks out (in circuit) okay.

Possibly I left a component out, so I'll double check that I didn't skip 
anything during the installation phase.


Thanks again for all the help,

John

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Re: [Elecraft] WB3AAL's Interviewed by 99Hobbies @ Atlanticon 2006

[Ron Polityka]

Hi Mike,

Sorry, click on the link 99 hobbies. Then page down and click on "Listen to 
my interview with Ron."


Sorry, that was not I. It was Ed, WA3WSJ, in DE.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org

- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Markowski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Ron Polityka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] WB3AAL's Interviewed by 99Hobbies @ Atlanticon 2006



Hi Ron,

I haven't spotted the interview yet but will keep looking.  I'm not 
positive, but I think you & I had a 2m qso a year or so ago when you were 
activating a lighthouse, maybe at the DE River??  Whoever it was, there 
were 2 or 3 guys and they chatted with both me and my now 12 year old son 
Nathan KB3KYB - something about needing at least 2 contacts per 
lighthouse.  I don't know if that rings a bell or not.  I'll have to check 
my log when I get home, but I'm guessing there aren't too many lighthouse 
hams in VHF range of me.  :-)  Anyway, work day is over so off to home I 
go.  By the way, I like the "Bonnie & Clyde" pic on your web site!


73,
Mike  AB3AP
Avondale, PA  (with K2 #4834)

Ron Polityka wrote:

Hello,

Check out the interview that Dave, KZ1O did with me at Atlanticon 2006.

Thanks Dave and I hope people visit your website - it's well worth it.

http://99hobbies.blogspot.com/
There is also a plug for the ARLHS, Amateur Radio Lighthouse Society.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org





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[Elecraft] FS:KX1 (it has been sold)

[John [K7SVV]]

The KX1 I advertised a while ago has been sold.

--
John   [K7SVV]
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Re: [Elecraft] LED light

[Alexandra Carter]

OK maybe I goofed, I thought it was red to prevent destroying night 
vision. 73 de Alex nS6y



The LED light in the KX1 is red, and will not allow you to read color
codes. That is not its purpose. 73 de Alex NS6Y
My LED (map reading) light on the front side is very bright white.
It works very well for color recognition.  Geoff, 
K6TFZ___

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RE: [Elecraft] LED light

[EricJ]

I thought they were all white. Mine is. I slip a piece of red acetate
between the LED and case sometimes, but the LED itself is white.

Eric
KE6US
Ww.ke6us.com 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alexandra Carter
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LED light

The LED light in the KX1 is red, and will not allow you to read color codes.
That is not its purpose. 73 de Alex NS6Y

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Re: [Elecraft] LED light

[Alexandra Carter]

The LED light in the KX1 is red, and will not allow you to read color 
codes. That is not its purpose. 73 de Alex NS6Y


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Re: AW: [Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[RG]

Peter Zenker wrote:


OK, Ron, I'll work on it.

Meanwhile, I don't know of anyone completely disassembling a 
fully-built Elecraft radio and putting it back together. In 
theory this means twice the fun you had building it the first time  ;)


73,
Wayne
N6KR
   



Not complete and it was not his fun, but mine and mine was more then twice:
One of the K2 I had to support / repair was probably very near to your
theory. I stopped counting / reporting the failures I found at number 26 (in
ONE K2!!). Reversed Diodes, Caps,  most of the torroids  to desolder and
solder new ;-))

72/3 de Peter, DL2FI
www.qrpproject.de

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Maybe the original builder thought it was only necessary to get the 
parts in the right general area, and the electrons would "sort it all 
out" themselves.

RG KB6GK
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AW: [Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[Peter Zenker]

> 
> OK, Ron, I'll work on it.
> 
> Meanwhile, I don't know of anyone completely disassembling a 
> fully-built Elecraft radio and putting it back together. In 
> theory this means twice the fun you had building it the first time  ;)
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR

Not complete and it was not his fun, but mine and mine was more then twice:
One of the K2 I had to support / repair was probably very near to your
theory. I stopped counting / reporting the failures I found at number 26 (in
ONE K2!!). Reversed Diodes, Caps,  most of the torroids  to desolder and
solder new ;-))

72/3 de Peter, DL2FI
www.qrpproject.de

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[Elecraft] WB3AAL's Interviewed by 99Hobbies @ Atlanticon 2006

[Ron Polityka]

Hello,

Check out the interview that Dave, KZ1O did with me at Atlanticon 2006.

Thanks Dave and I hope people visit your website - it's well worth it.

http://99hobbies.blogspot.com/ 


There is also a plug for the ARLHS, Amateur Radio Lighthouse Society.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com 
www.n3epa.org


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[Elecraft] FS:KX1

[John [K7SVV]]

FOR SALE KX1 with
 KXAT1 Internal Antenna Tuner
 KXB30 30 Meter Adaptor
 Padded carrying case with belt loop

Asking $335.00 and I pay shipping.
US Postal Money Order or PayPal only.
US only.


--
John   [K7SVV]
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[Elecraft] Aussie Speak.

[Mike]

Best signage/name I ever saw on a house gate was in Geelong/VK3. It read...

DIDJABRINGYAGROGALONG.

(if anybody here doesn't know already, Grog = Booze!!).

73, Mike, zl1mh (Who has Aussie Grandkids too!!).



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[Elecraft] Re: XG1 F/S

[Mark Baugh]

SOLD!


I have an XG1 Receiver Test Oscillator for sale. 
Price is $35 shipped conus.

73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[michael taylor]

On 4/11/06, wayne burdick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Meanwhile, I don't know of anyone completely disassembling a
> fully-built Elecraft radio and putting it back together. In theory this
> means twice the fun you had building it the first time  ;)

While I am still on the early stages of assembling my first K2, I
would like to suggest that myself and far too many other hams have not
built anything for *above* 30 MHz. Perhaps a low powered 6m/2m CW/SSB
with FM option rig would be a reasonable project? Something designed
as a starting point for the VHF/UHF weak signal operators' basic
radio.

-Michael Taylor
 VE3TIX
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[Elecraft] FS: K2 loaded

[Ken Bessler]

FS: Elecraft K2 #4913 - fully loaded! Includes
the following installed options:

KSB2 SSB board
K160RX 160 meter & RX antenna port
K60XV 60 meter/transverter interface
KNB2 Noise blanker
KDSP2 DSP/Clock
KAT2 Antenna tuner
FDIMP Finger tuning dimple
KIO2 Computer interface
KBT2 Internal battery

Total value is $1,424.78 plus a lot of TLC. Non smoker
/Non drinker, never used portable or mobile. A great
sounding hand mic is included!

I've got the builder's itch and I'm selling so I can build another

Asking $1300 OBO shipped CONUS. Looking for a FT-857D or IC706mkIIg to play
with while I build

Ken KG0WX

Prefer Paypal payment to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] Re: 14.8 VDC for KX1?

[ae5x]

Thanks for the advice, Paul. A few other folks emailed me the same suggestion 
of using a diode or two initially to drop the V level & that's what I'll do.

I have a 3-day backpacking trip planned for the last weekend of this month 
which also happens to be the date of QRPTTF, so I'll probably be on the air a 
lot and want to maximize the operating time I get from the rig/batteries. I 
think starting out at the top end of the safe voltage range will help me to do 
that.

Batteries sure have come a long way in the past (very) few years: lithium, 
NiMH, LiPo's, etc.

Take a gander at this page and see how many mAHs these provide for a given 
weight and then compare them with yesteryears alkalines:

http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/batteries__li-poly__290272_products.htm

Thanks also for the recommendation to those who emailed me privately,

72,

John Harper AE5X
Outdoor QRP: http://www.ae5x.com



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Re: [Elecraft] 14.8 VDC for KX1?

[Paul - VE1DY]

Hi John,

What about slipping a couple of diodes in series?  Switch them out
after the voltage drops.

Paul  - ve1dy


>
> I'd prefer to use a 4-cell battery for the KX1. The manual calls for 7-14 
> volts for this rig. I wonder if anyone else may be using LiPos in the field 
> (or any battery with a voltage approaching 15V) and whether or not you have 
> noticed any harmful effects such as unwanted smoke, etc...
>
> Thanks and 72,
>
> John Harper AE5X
> Outdoor QRP: http://www.ae5x.com
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Re: [Elecraft] 14.8 VDC for KX1?

[W0rw]

   i built an external LiIon battery pack for my KX1. It can be Velcroed to 
the top edge of the KX1. You could just use 3 cells to get 12.4V, which is more 
than the internal primary Lithium's normally provide. The radio has power 
diode inputs so it will draw current from which ever battery has the higher 
voltage (internal or external).
   i wanted more power for /pm operation so i built a LiIon battery pack with 
4 Sony 18650's (1.5 AH) cells to give me 16.7 V, (do this at your own risk). 
Then i use 2 diodes and SPDT (center off) switch to drop the voltage down to 
14V (which is the maximum rating for the KX1) and this gives full output on 
transmit. The voltage goes up to 15V on receive but there is apparently no 
damage. i switch the diodes out of the circuit as the battery voltage and my 
power 
output drops. 
   The 'Bat LO' feature on the KX1 can be used to detect the external battery 
dropping below 13.0 volts by setting the 'Bat LO' to 13.0V. When the external 
battery drops below 13.0 volts 'Bat LO' will be displayed on the LED and the 
battery can be switched back up to 14 volts.  The 'Bat LO' is displayed every 
5 minutes and when the KX1 is switched on. So i am using the battery low 
feature to keep the battery voltage above 13 volts. It also tells me that my 
internal NiCads are fully charged at turn on.
   This 4 cell LiIon battery pack weighs 7 ounces. My 10 1/2 AA NiCad's weigh 
about the same but have 1/3 the capacity. The internal LiIon controller for 
these cells disconnects at 10.0V.
  i trickle charge my KX1 (which has internal 1/2 AA NiCad batteries) but the 
LiIon cells do not require any trickle charging.

Paul  w0rw
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[Elecraft] Re: Metamorphosis

[wayne burdick]

ron_w wrote:

Please come out with something new for the guys on this Reflector to 
buildA guy posts a subject matter relating to reading the 
color code (Colour actually !)  and it ends up being replied to with 
everything from Churchill's supposed sayings to birth control..


OK, Ron, I'll work on it.

Meanwhile, I don't know of anyone completely disassembling a 
fully-built Elecraft radio and putting it back together. In theory this 
means twice the fun you had building it the first time  ;)


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Want to purchase

[Phil LaMarche]

Help. Does anyone have a 1MF non polarized low voltage capacitor
they would sell me. Putting it in line with a Heil mike.

Thank you

Phil 
 

Philip LaMarche
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com  

www.W9DVM.com  

727-944-3226
800-395-7795 pin 02
FAX 727-937-8834
NASFT #30210
W9DVM 


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RE: [Elecraft] 14.8 VDC for KX1?

[Darwin, Keith]

OK, here's my dumb question.  If the KX1 says 7-14 volts and you have a
configuration that gives you 11 volts, why would you go to 14.8 VDC?
Does the rig give more output power at higher voltage?  I'd think the
solution is to run it on 11 volts.

Or maybe your preference is driven by other factors ...

- Keith KD1E - 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 10:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 14.8 VDC for KX1?

Having recently gotten into electric R/C plane, I'd like to power my KX1
with the lighter LiPo batteries that I have on hand. Each LiPo cell is
4.7 volts, therefore 3 cells = 11.1Vand 4 cells is 14.8V.

I'd prefer to use a 4-cell battery for the KX1. The manual calls for
7-14 volts for this rig. I wonder if anyone else may be using LiPos in
the field (or any battery with a voltage approaching 15V) and whether or
not you have noticed any harmful effects such as unwanted smoke, etc...

Thanks and 72,

John Harper AE5X
Outdoor QRP: http://www.ae5x.com



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Kenwood TL-120 lonear

[Trevor Day]

Bob, I will email you a pdf of the TL-120 manual
Check your email

Trev G3ZYY

In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Bob Towers 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 05:37:23 -0700
Bob Nielsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


http://
members.fortunecity.com/xe1bef/kenwood-manuals.htm


Many thanks for the lead: it points to mods.dk. I'm up to my download 
limit with them already!


I'm pretty sure it's the 120V or 130V manuals I need. They're the 10 
watt versions and have the 7-pin DIN connector for the linear. The S 
versions don't because they're already 100 watts.


73

Bob
2M0KDZ
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--
Trevor Day
UKSMG #217
www.uksmg.org

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RE: [Elecraft] QRM

[Darwin, Keith]

Well, I sort of like some level of "QRM" on the list.  Without some
off-topic chat, the list becomes sterile.

I've subscribed to a list that is just like you described.  I get maybe
5 messages per week, every one of them on-topic.  There is so little
activity that the list is pretty much worthless.  You have to have some
traffic to have enough excitement and activity to make a list worth
while.

I delete over 1/2 the posts to this list based on the subject line.  If
the subject doesn't interest me be it Elecraft related or not, I just
nuke it so as to not waste time on it.

My beef isn't the QRM level, but the number of posts that are good and
worth reading.  Man, there is too much good stuff on this list.  Reading
all the good stuff - now THAT takes some time.  Hitting shift-click and
then delete, well that is very quick and easy.

And yes, the QRM level can get rather high at times, but the OT threads
usually run their coarse and die of their own accord.

- Keith KD1E -

-Original Message-
*snip*

Please gentelmans, let's keep e-mail qrm a bit down and use this
reflector for tehnical help and Elecraft related stuff and not like
public forum about anything connected to Ham radio, so PLEASE think
three times before posting a message wich will then be sent to thousends
of us.

*snip*
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[Elecraft] 14.8 VDC for KX1?

[ae5x]

Having recently gotten into electric R/C plane, I'd like to power my KX1 with 
the lighter LiPo batteries that I have on hand. Each LiPo cell is 4.7 volts, 
therefore 3 cells = 11.1Vand 4 cells is 14.8V.

I'd prefer to use a 4-cell battery for the KX1. The manual calls for 7-14 volts 
for this rig. I wonder if anyone else may be using LiPos in the field (or any 
battery with a voltage approaching 15V) and whether or not you have noticed any 
harmful effects such as unwanted smoke, etc...

Thanks and 72,

John Harper AE5X
Outdoor QRP: http://www.ae5x.com



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[Elecraft] XG1 F/S

[Mark Baugh]

I have an XG1 Receiver Test Oscillator for sale. 
Price is $35 shipped conus.

73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS

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[Elecraft] LED light

[Jeremiah McCarthy]

Stanley Supply and Services, formerly Jenson Tools, sells a real nice LED 
penlight called "Stylus Hi-Intensity" LED penlight...I have one and would hate 
to be without it...It can be turned on momentarily with a push button, or full 
on with a twist of the barrel...It uses 3  (yes, 4 "A's") cells...Well 
built of brass, it even carries a serial number...Not cheap, about 20 bucks and 
comes in 3 LED colors, white, blue, and red...Mine is white...The usual 
disclaimers apply...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Kenwood TL-120 lonear

[Bob Towers]

Bob,

Much appreciated...

I'll see if I can get the contrast up (or grab the bit of the PDF I want and 
have a go at pasting it into Paint Shop Pro or something).

73

Bob
2M0KDZ
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[Elecraft] QRM

[S55M]

Hello Elecrafters!

Every day i recieve at least 40 e-mails trough this reflector. Most of them
are about things wich are just opinions and not directly related to Elecraft
stuff.
Such huge traffic forces me sometimes to delete all mails in folder without
reviewing msg per msg.
Please gentelmans, let's keep e-mail qrm a bit down and use this reflector
for tehnical help and Elecraft related stuff and not like public forum about
anything connected to Ham radio, so PLEASE think three times before posting
a message wich will then be sent to thousends of us.
Thank You!
Or maybe it's time to sign off from this beautifull reflector and open one
Elecraft technically oriented?

73's and GD DX
de
S55M-Adi
www.s55m.com

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[Elecraft] L3 mod done, no problem

[Paul Webb]

Hi Gang
Just done the L3 mod to my KX1 with the 8030 module fitted, I tried the
radio before the mod and L3 did get warm with key down for a few seconds
(about 5-10 secs), it’s a easy mod and didn’t take long to do, afterwards I
did the same test with the new L3 and I can confirm that it certainly runs
much cooler, after about 10 secs key down I could just tell that the core
was slightly warmer than it was when I was in RX mode so I guess that’s
fixed it!.
I checked the power output levels before and after the mod and all seemed ok
I seemed to have dropped about 100mW or so on 80m but gained a couple of
hundred millwatts on other bands , in the real world the power remained
about the same , between 3 and 4 watts on all bands. So im a happy chap.
That’s the lid put back on the KX1 ,never to be removed again (Hi) well not
till the SSB Module comes out! (Don’t Panic Wayne, only kidding)
73
Paul
M0BMN





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[Elecraft] RE: What it's all about (first QSO with K2).

[Steven Pituch]

Hi Keith,
I have run into this before.  Since I make my own QSL cards I just make a
blank one up for the other ham (with his call) and send it to him with an
SASE.  Write a nice letter to him also.  It works every time.  A QSL card is
just a receipt.

Steve, W2MY


-Original Message-
 
He has no QSL cards (said so during the QSO) which is a bit of a
disappointment.  I'd like a card from him.  Still, the memory of the QSO and
my log entry will serve to keep the experience from disappearing.
 
73!
 
- Keith KD1E -

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Kenwood TL-120 lonear

[Bob Towers]

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 05:37:23 -0700
Bob Nielsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http:// 
> members.fortunecity.com/xe1bef/kenwood-manuals.htm

Many thanks for the lead: it points to mods.dk. I'm up to my download limit 
with them already!

I'm pretty sure it's the 120V or 130V manuals I need. They're the 10 watt 
versions and have the 7-pin DIN connector for the linear. The S versions don't 
because they're already 100 watts.

73

Bob
2M0KDZ
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[Elecraft] What it's all about (first QSO with K2).

[Darwin, Keith]

So how did the K2 work?  Wonderfully.  QSK is smoother than the TenTec's
I've owned.  Audio is cleaner than any other rig I've owned.  The rig is
easy to use and works well.  I already miss IF shift a bit but I'll
learn to live without it.  10 watts CW isn't much but was enough to do
the job.
 
Tuned the antenna to 40 meters.  Dialed in 7120 KHz, the SKCC hunting
ground.  Hooked up my Speed-x straight key and called CQ at 10 watts a
few times.  In the middle of a CQ call, I heard another station call CQ
a bit off freq.  Chalk one up for QSK.
 
I tuned him in and answered his call.  His fist was a bit rough but I
could get 90% of what he said.  We chatted for over 30 minutes.  I gave
a 479, received a 459.  Broadcast QRM at 2300 UTC was getting bad as the
QSO went on.  I certainly appreciated the cleanness of the K2 receiver
under those conditions.  Other guy turned out to be 88 yrs old and using
a straight key.  I really enjoyed chatting with him and was quite
grateful to Elecraft, the K2 and this reflector for allowing me the
privilege of meeting this OM on the air and getting to know him just a
bit.
 
Sometimes a contest-grade receiver is useful for completing a
non-contest, non-DX QSO. 
 
He has no QSL cards (said so during the QSO) which is a bit of a
disappointment.  I'd like a card from him.  Still, the memory of the QSO
and my log entry will serve to keep the experience from disappearing.
 
At age 88, his remaining time on the air is up in the air.  I may get a
chance to work him further down the log, or maybe not.  Knowing that
makes last night's chat that much more memorable.
 
Just one of many future QSOs the K2 and I will be enjoying!
 
73!
 
- Keith KD1E -
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RE: [Elecraft] Rework Eliminators? OK?

[Darwin, Keith]

-
Ron said:

Having read many, many posts on this subject, I'm coming to the
conclusion that it's like asking whether someone likes chocolate or
vanilla ice cream best. 

*snip*

You will have to decide whether pulling a panel to install a module is
worth adding the rework eliminators. It isn't for me. It definitely is
for others.


P.S. I prefer chocolate ice cream, if that's any help .

---

True enough, Ron.  IMHO Elecraft should have made the K2 plug & play rig
from the start.  It would have increased the cost of the basic unit, but
not by much judging from the small number of parts and the simplicity of
the module header boards.

But, as you say, the actual effort of making the mods is small and for
someone who is a builder at heart, the effort is not really a drawback.

I really like the fact my K2 is fully plug & play.  I can add or remove
options at will.  I'll put in what I think makes the rig the best.  If I
ever sell it (I sell everything) the new owner may want a different set
of options and the rework eliminators makes that simple for them.  I
believe resale value of my rig is higher with them there than not.

Fortunately for both of us, the rework eliminators are available.  I can
have my plug & play rig and you can have the rig at a lower cost.

... And I'm definitely a vanilla man :-) LOL!

- Keith KD1E -
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RE: [Elecraft] Metamorphosis

[Don Wilhelm]

I think Wayne should be pushin the KX1 sales up with this LED flashlight
(torch) suggestion - the KX1 contains an LED light that can be used to
detect the color codes!

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Wayne,
> Please come out with something new for the guys on this
> Reflector to buildA guy posts a subject matter relating
> to reading
> the color code (Colour actually !)  and it ends up being replied to with
> everything from Churchill's supposed sayings to birth control..
> Too many guys with cold soldering irons...think of the money you are
> losing not having them busy?
> Regards .Ron ZL1TW
>
>

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[Elecraft] Elecraft transverter stack

[John D'Ausilio]

http://w1rt.us/irbj/estack-front.jpg
http://w1rt.us/irbj/estack-back.jpg

It actually wasn't all that hard to get em lined up for the plumbing
in back .. just oversized the holes a little and tightened *after*
installing BNC plumbing :)

de w1rt/john
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[Elecraft] K2 and Kenwood TL-120 lonear

[Bob Towers]

I think I've invented a new word: lonear, a single-operator linear. Apologies 
for the slip - hang on, that has connotations in British English...

And it's the linear for the TS-120V, not the TS-120S which already has 100 
watts output.

And it's only Tuesday. I'd better stay off writing emails for the rest of the 
week. Or get an email program with a spell chequer, perhaps.

73

Bob
2M0KDZ
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[Elecraft] Aussy Speech

[Mike Walkington]

Reminds me that Wombats eat roots and leaves

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[Elecraft] K2 and Kenwood TL-120 lonear

[Bob Towers]

Has anybody any experience of interfacing the K2 to the Kenwood TL-120 linear 
(matching linear for the TS-120S)?

I have one on offer for a price I may not be able to refuse! There's a 7-pin 
DIN connector on the back of the linear which takes control signals from the 
TS-120S, one of which I suppose is the PTT line - is it?

73

Bob
2M0KDZ

Oh, and #5339 is finished, complete with KSB2, KIO2 and KNB2. One silly mistake 
of mine put a 1.8nF capacitor in the 10 & 12m LPF. It's fixed now, many thanks 
to Gary and his infinite patience.
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[Elecraft] Metamorphosis

[ron_w]

Wayne,
   Please come out with something new for the guys on this 
Reflector to buildA guy posts a subject matter relating to reading 
the color code (Colour actually !)  and it ends up being replied to with 
everything from Churchill's supposed sayings to birth control..
Too many guys with cold soldering irons...think of the money you are 
losing not having them busy?

Regards .Ron ZL1TW


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