[Elecraft] Raspy Audio from K2

2006-12-14 Thread William Shappley

John -

I saw your message on the ECraft reflector.  I have tried exactly the  
same thing in my shack, and I always will hear a raspy audio sound,  
even from perfectly functioning rigs that get FB on air reports.  I  
have never had time to track
down exactly what is happening, but don't get wrapped around the axle  
too much.  I suspect it has something to do with a combination of the  
extreme sensitivity of a ham rig, and the dummy load consuming the  
actual modulated
output of the rig under test, leaving mostly leakage products and  
funny IM from things that only travel a few feet for the listening  
rig to hear.


Try it on the air before you get too deep into troubleshooting.

73,
Bill
K4DXU
KX1 #702
K2 #5540



Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 06:14:58 -0600
From: John R. Lonigro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] Raspy audio from K2
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I recently finished building the KSB2 and did the alignment on the
filters.  Everything seems to be working as advertised, except on
transmit my voice sounds raspy.  I haven't had time to dig into the
problem yet, but I did try 3 separate mics and got the same result.  For
my test, I transmitted at 1 Watt into a dummy load while listening on my
Icom 706 with headphones.  My first assumption is that I simply need to
tweak the transmit filter, but I'm asking if anyone else has had the
same symptom that was perhaps caused by something else.  For example, is
it possible the two radios are simply too close to each other for a good
audio test?  They are on separate supplies and were about 6 feet apart
during the test.

Thanks and 73's,

John AA0VE
K2#3401

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Re: [Elecraft] For what it may be worth

2006-12-14 Thread Tom Hammond

OF ALL THE DUB THINGS I DO...

MY WEB PAGE IS AT WWW.N0SS.NET  !!!

Sorry.  Obviously, head left at wrong end of body last night!

Tom
__

Doug Person wrote:


Tom,

for those of us not familiar with your site - could provide a link?

Thanks

Doug -- KØDXV

Tom Hammond wrote:
Sometimes we tend to forget things... I forgot 
that not everyone had access to a broadband 
Internet connection... as a result, I continued 
to add (mercilessly, I must add) items to my 
web site... ALL on the main page, creating a 
monster which must have had some folks pulling 
out all remaining hairs from their heads just 
waiting for everything to download.


I've now tried to correct some of that... I've 
re-worked the main page, broken it into 5-6 
separate pages, more or less by topic, with the 
hope that you will be able to more readily get 
to those sections of the site that you really want to access.


The following pages are available below:

  General Amateur Radio Files - Construction/Modification Projects,
  Reference / Info Files, more specifically, ALL files NOT related
  to Elecraft Kits.

  Elecraft Kits (General) - Files regarding:
   Searchable Parts Layouts for the K2, KPA100, K1, and KX1
   Broadband Noise Generator You Can Build - For Xtal Filter Alignment

  Elecraft K2-Related Files - Files specific to the K2

  Elecraft K1  KX1-Related Files - Files specific to the K1  KX1

  SCANS of Elecraft Kit PC Boards
  (top  bottom, for troubleshooting)

  General QRP-Related Files

When you have nothing better to do, please 
visit my site and see if things are a bit 
easier to navigate. And, if you find ANY 
problems accessing files, or anything that's 
supposed to be there, but isn't... PLEASE let me know as soon as possible


73,

Tom   N0SS

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[Elecraft] Progressive Problem......

2006-12-14 Thread Paul

Board Members,

K2 Serial Number 3479 needs help.   Over the past couple of months an odd 
little quirk developed.  When turned on the rig would do one of two 
things.. after about 10-20 seconds the rig would jump from filter 
setting SF1 to SF4.  This would happen by itself after being turned on and 
started to warm up.  Occasionally - it did not happen in the first 10-20 
seconds BUT it would happen when I would touch the volume control or power 
control or rf gain control or any of the push button on the front panel.  So 
either way it would (by itself or with me adjusting one of the control) it 
would move from SF1 setting to the SF4 setting.  It had done this for about 
a two months.


I let it go because I figured it was just a odd thing that developed with 
the rig.


NOW the rig is doing this and I have lost control of the power output.  On 
10 meters with the power output the display reads 1 thru 100 watts out but 
in reality with a meter in line the output is only 5 watts or 100 watts 
depending if I am in the low power (10 watts) or in the high power (100 
watt) section of the power adjustment control.  There is nothing in between. 
It gives 5 watts or 100 watts - depending only on if the dial is in the high 
or low setting section.  No control even though the K2 display is showing 
various settings different than 5 watts or 100 watts.


Further ... On 20 40 and 80 meters during my initial test the output was 
only 20 watts.  Today  I checked it and 20 is showing 100 watts out with no 
control and on 40 it is showing 125 watts out on an inline meter with the K2 
display showing 25 watts out.  So the actual forward power is way off from 
the display and there is no control forward power on the K2.


And the receive of the K2 is affected by the power adjustment knob.  In the 
high power section of the power knob the receive and noise floor drops a 
couple of s units from the low power section of the power knob adjustment. 
It seems to be much more sensitive in the low power setting than the high 
power setting.


Prior to this rig number 3479 was a perfectly functioning radio.


To me - this is sounding like a software problem but I honestly do not know 
were to begin.  Any ideas or anyone who may have had similar problems 
offering suggestions on some direction would sure be appreciated.



Thanks

Paul K8QT
Serial Number 3479 


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Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 questions

2006-12-14 Thread Lyle Johnson

I assume you mean the rtc (real-time clock).  It is on (or at least starts
out that way, with power on).  However, after some time of
operation, I get
not inst.  The DSP filters work fine-- I just can't call them up in the
menu to edit them or make changes without doing the power on/off.


Is this a recent or early KDSP2?  Is it used in a post s/n 3000 K2?   Is 
there a KAT-100 attached?


73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] K6XX Visual CW Indicator Kit

2006-12-14 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

To all who order a K6XX CW Visual Indicator Kit from me.
All future orders will include:

K2: 93.1K SMD resistor option (stops false blinking)
KX1: 47K resistor divider on audio input line.

http://www.wa3wsj.com/K6XXcwInd.html


72,
Ed,WA3WSJ



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RE: [Elecraft] Progressive Problem......

2006-12-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It does sound like a software/firmware problem except that the firmware
isn't changing on its own, so something else associated with it is. 

First I'd pull the control board and  inspect it very carefully with a
powerful magnifier - especially the MCU socket and associated connections -
for missed solder joints that may now be becoming intermittent as oxidation
accumulates. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Board Members,

K2 Serial Number 3479 needs help.   Over the past couple of months an odd 
little quirk developed.  When turned on the rig would do one of two 
things.. after about 10-20 seconds the rig would jump from filter 
setting SF1 to SF4.  This would happen by itself after being turned on and 
started to warm up.  Occasionally - it did not happen in the first 10-20 
seconds BUT it would happen when I would touch the volume control or power 
control or rf gain control or any of the push button on the front panel.  So

either way it would (by itself or with me adjusting one of the control) it 
would move from SF1 setting to the SF4 setting.  It had done this for about 
a two months.

I let it go because I figured it was just a odd thing that developed with 
the rig.

NOW the rig is doing this and I have lost control of the power output.  On 
10 meters with the power output the display reads 1 thru 100 watts out but 
in reality with a meter in line the output is only 5 watts or 100 watts 
depending if I am in the low power (10 watts) or in the high power (100 
watt) section of the power adjustment control.  There is nothing in between.

It gives 5 watts or 100 watts - depending only on if the dial is in the high

or low setting section.  No control even though the K2 display is showing 
various settings different than 5 watts or 100 watts.

Further ... On 20 40 and 80 meters during my initial test the output was 
only 20 watts.  Today  I checked it and 20 is showing 100 watts out with no 
control and on 40 it is showing 125 watts out on an inline meter with the K2

display showing 25 watts out.  So the actual forward power is way off from 
the display and there is no control forward power on the K2.

And the receive of the K2 is affected by the power adjustment knob.  In the 
high power section of the power knob the receive and noise floor drops a 
couple of s units from the low power section of the power knob adjustment. 
It seems to be much more sensitive in the low power setting than the high 
power setting.

Prior to this rig number 3479 was a perfectly functioning radio.


To me - this is sounding like a software problem but I honestly do not know 
were to begin.  Any ideas or anyone who may have had similar problems 
offering suggestions on some direction would sure be appreciated.


Thanks

Paul K8QT
Serial Number 3479 

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RE: [Elecraft] K1 Receives as good or better than K2

2006-12-14 Thread Darwin, Keith
Hi Steve,

What do you mean by better.  K1 is louder than K2?  K1 is more
sensitive (i.e. detects weaker signals) than the K2?  K1's front end
doesn't fold up when there's a S9+30 signal 500 Hz away?

I had a K1 and now have a K2.  I did NOT get a chance to compare them
head to head but my memory is that the K2 is a much better receiver than
the K1.  Better in that is can detect weak signals, decode them for you
and continue to do it well under varying band and QRM conditions. 

If I were you, I'd put both rigs side by side hooked to the same antenna
(don't transmit!) and if possible, with both headphone outputs feeding a
mixer and a single pair of headphones.  Then tune both rigs to the same
signal and switch back and forth on the mixer.  Which one really sounds
better?  Adjust the volume controls so they are the same volume in your
headphones.  Listen to some very weak signals.  Listen to strong
signals.

Then you'll have a much better idea of how they compare and whether or
not the K2 has a problem.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -


-Original Message-
Steve Watkins said:

It just seems that the K1 is receiving a bit better than the K2.

Heck, maybe the K1 is just that good and out hears the K2?

Steve
NE7RD
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RE: [Elecraft] Progressive Problem......

2006-12-14 Thread Don Wilhelm
Paul,

Something is loose - perhaps an unsoldered connection.  Unfortunately,
things like that are difficult to locate, especially if the problem goes
away when you touch something - sometimes you think it is fixed only to find
it back later.

Since it reacts when you touch most anything on the Front Panel, I sould
examine the front panel board first (and perhaps even re-flow the
soldering).  The control board would be the second suspect since it is right
there close to the Front Panel.  Of course, check the connectors between the
front panel and RF board and also the control board connectors.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul
 Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 10:37 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Progressive Problem..


 Board Members,

 K2 Serial Number 3479 needs help.   Over the past couple of months an odd
 little quirk developed.  When turned on the rig would do one of two
 things.. after about 10-20 seconds the rig would jump from filter
 setting SF1 to SF4.  This would happen by itself after being
 turned on and
 started to warm up.  Occasionally - it did not happen in the first 10-20
 seconds BUT it would happen when I would touch the volume control
 or power
 control or rf gain control or any of the push button on the front
 panel.  So
 either way it would (by itself or with me adjusting one of the
 control) it
 would move from SF1 setting to the SF4 setting.  It had done this
 for about
 a two months.

 I let it go because I figured it was just a odd thing that developed with
 the rig.

 NOW the rig is doing this and I have lost control of the power
 output.  On
 10 meters with the power output the display reads 1 thru 100
 watts out but
 in reality with a meter in line the output is only 5 watts or 100 watts
 depending if I am in the low power (10 watts) or in the high power (100
 watt) section of the power adjustment control.  There is nothing
 in between.
 It gives 5 watts or 100 watts - depending only on if the dial is
 in the high
 or low setting section.  No control even though the K2 display is showing
 various settings different than 5 watts or 100 watts.

 Further ... On 20 40 and 80 meters during my initial test the output was
 only 20 watts.  Today  I checked it and 20 is showing 100 watts
 out with no
 control and on 40 it is showing 125 watts out on an inline meter
 with the K2
 display showing 25 watts out.  So the actual forward power is way
 off from
 the display and there is no control forward power on the K2.

 And the receive of the K2 is affected by the power adjustment
 knob.  In the
 high power section of the power knob the receive and noise floor drops a
 couple of s units from the low power section of the power knob
 adjustment.
 It seems to be much more sensitive in the low power setting than the high
 power setting.

 Prior to this rig number 3479 was a perfectly functioning radio.


 To me - this is sounding like a software problem but I honestly
 do not know
 were to begin.  Any ideas or anyone who may have had similar problems
 offering suggestions on some direction would sure be appreciated.


 Thanks

 Paul K8QT
 Serial Number 3479

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RE: [Elecraft] Solvent

2006-12-14 Thread Howard W. Ashcraft
 For an example of what damage can be done, I am restoring a Tek SC504
oscilloscope where someone used contact cleaner/solvent on the channel 2
attenuator.  This caused corrosion of contacts and debonding between
contacts and carrier.  It is fixable, but I sure wish some tech in the
past hadn't taken the quick route of spraying chemicals inside
precision electronics.  I am cleaning it up with alcohol.

Howard W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:44 AM
To: 'Elecraft'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Solvent

I'm sure others will suggest many options although if you read the
Elecraft manuals you'll find, in bold type: 

DO NOT use ... solvents of any kind. Use of any of these will void your
warranty. 

If you need to clean your boards you're probably using too much solder.
Try a smaller diameter solder. 

If you look at the photos of assembled boards in any of several Elecraft
assembly manuals including the XV 50, 144, 222 or 432 transverters, the
KX1, the T1 antenna tuner or the WM1, AT1 or AF1 mini-modules, you'll
see boards I built up while writing the assembly procedures for those
kits. Those photos are the boards as they came from the soldering iron. 

If you look closely, you might see a few dark spots of flux here and
there, but they're tiny and insignificant and often in a place where I
installed and removed a part several times as the design was finalized.
To be certain the kit can be built exactly as described, I never use any
tools that are not specifically listed in the manual. That means no
fancy high-powered vacuum desoldering tool to clean up pads; just braid
or the SoldapulltR sucker listed under Tools Required. 

I will admit to taking a small swab with some isopropyl alcohol to an
individual, particularly messy solder pad when I needed to re-shoot a
picture after many component changes, especially when, after many
resoldering, some flux escaped the pad itself and ran onto the PCB, but
that's the extent of any flux removal. I moisten a Q-tipR or similar
swab with alcohol, then place it on the flux and spin the tip to scrub
that spot and loosen the flux. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Folks,

I'd like to know from the collective wisdom what solvent may be used on
Elecraft PC assemblies to remove some residual flux and flux smears.

It seems to me that a solvent that wouldn't harm boards and components
was isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) in the old days.

What do you Elecraft Builders use!

Thanks,

Bill
NA7Y





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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Dec 14 - Jan14, 2006

2006-12-14 Thread Ken Newman


~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
Dec 14 - Jan 14, 2006 
~

80 METER FOXHUNT - EACH Wenesday 0200z to 0329z
(Tue 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT - Each Friday 0200z to 0329z
(Thurs 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
MDXA PSK-31 DeathMatch  ... QRP Category
Dec 16, z to Dec 17, 2400z
Rules: http://www.mdxa1.org/deathmatch.html
~
Croatian CW Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 16, 1400z to Dec 17, 1400z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/9acwc.htm
~
QRP ARCI:
Holiday Spirits Homebrew Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 17, 2000z to 2359z  
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org

~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Dec 17, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Dec 18, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~
R A E M Contest .. Low Power category
Dec 24, 0200z to 0959z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/raem.htm
~
RAC Canada Winter Contest (All) ... QRP Category
Dec 30, z to  2359z 
Rules: http://www.rac.ca/downloads/canwin2006.pdf

~
Stew Perry (W1BB) 
Topband Distance Challenge (CW) ... QRP Category

Dec 30, 1500z to Dec 31, 1500z
~
ARRL Straight Key Night 
Jan 1, z to 2400z

Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2007
~
AGB NYSB New Year SnowBall Contest (80M-All)...QRP Category
Jan 1, z to 0100z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/eu1eu/agb_nysb.htm

~
AGCW Happy New Year Contest (CW)...QRP Category
Jan 1, 0900z to 1200z
Rules: 
http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2006/Englisch/happynew_e.htm

~
AGCW VHF/UHF CW Contest ... QRP Category
Jan 1, 1600z to 1900z (144 Mhz)
Jan 1, 1900z to 2100z (432 Mhz)
Rules: 
http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2006/Englisch/agcw-dl0_e.htm

~
ARRL RTTY Roundup ... = 150W Category
Jan 6, 1800z to Jan 7, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2007
~
EUCW 160 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Jan 6, 2000z to 2300z and 
Jan 7, 0400z to 0700z

Rules: http://www.agcw.org/eucw/eu160.html
~
DARC 10-Meter Contest ... =100 W category
Jan 8, 0900Z to 1059Z
Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedczr.htm
~
Adventure Radio Society - Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jan 9, 0200z to 0400z (First Monday 9 PM EST)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~
070 Club PSKFEST Contest  ... QRP Category
Jan 13, z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.podxs.com/html/pskfest.html
~
Michigan QRP Club Contest (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jan 13, 1200z to Jan 14, 2359z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html

~
North American QSO Party (CW) (100w max. QRP Entries Noted)
Jan 13, 1800z to Jan 14, 0600z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php
~

Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others 
for assistance in compiling this calendar. 


Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.  
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)

72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Solvent -- Better way

2006-12-14 Thread Fred Jensen

John Buck wrote:

Perhaps my credibility is shot since I used to occasionally

 wash my hands with TCE.

As a teenage ham in the mid-50's, we all cleaned stuff with carbon 
tetrachloride and just let it evaporate.  Then I discovered MEK, which 
would dissolve the anti-fungal coating on old WW2 surplus parts if you 
kept putting enough on. I did it in my bedroom where my radios were. 
Later in the USAF, we had a big bucket of TCE in which the Model 15's 
and 28's were dunked.  It was inside too.


OSHA:  If you're subscribed to this reflector, please don't have a cow.
I sure wouldn't do any of that today.  Apparently, I lucked out ... I'm 
still alive at the end of 2006 and the only behavior from my early adult 
years that affects me today (other than the fact that my wife is certain 
I'm crazy) involves combat.


ALL:  I would strongly (very strongly) recommend that the answer to the 
which solvent question for Elecraft equipment is NONE.  Use *very* 
fine solder (mine is 0.015 63/37) which lets you precisely control the 
amount of solder, and thus flux, and will eliminate the need for 
cleaning anything.  I also have a very small desk fan which I use to 
blow the fumes sideways and away from me while soldering, and I always 
wash my hands after building.


73 and my best of whatever season greeting works for you,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
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[Elecraft] This old dog has a new trick(Ellecraft)

2006-12-14 Thread Donald R. McGregor
I'm 81 and have the shakes in both hands and I just finished K2 Ser. # 
5745.  It's on the air but with the shakes I have not been able to send 
CW for along time now.  Maybe this will inspire me to get a keyboard.  I 
am very impressed with the rig.

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RE: [Elecraft] Solvent

2006-12-14 Thread Mike S

At 02:12 PM 12/14/2006, Howard W. Ashcraft wrote...
 For an example of what damage can be done, I am restoring a Tek 
SC504
oscilloscope where someone used contact cleaner/solvent on the channel 
2

attenuator.


Tek used special PC board material (polysulfone?) in the attenuators 
for many of their scopes. Most of the manuals specifically warn about 
using anything other than isopropyl alcohol for cleaning.


From the 485 manual - Cleaning the switch contacts should only be 
done using isopropyl alcohol or a solution of 1% Joy detergent and 99% 
water. Do not use acetone, MEK, MIBK, benzol, toluol, carbon 
tetrachloride, trichlor, trichlene, methyl alcohol, methylene chloride, 
sulfuric acid, or Freon TC-TETF-22-TA-12. - they had a sense of humor, 
no battery acid cleaning allowed! 


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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 questions

2006-12-14 Thread Chuck Guenther

Don and Lyle,

It's working!  I removed the KDSP2 module and heated up a couple of dozen
solder connections, especially at the connoectors.  While I was at it I
built the KNB2 module and installed it.  I used the audio filter un-module
from Rework Eliminators to replace the KDSP2 module while I checked out the
KNB2.  Then I reinstalled the KDSP2 and now have solid communications with
it.

Thanks to both of you for your assistance.

73,
Chuck  NI0C

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chuck Guenther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 questions


 Chuck,

 If you get the not inst message it means that the KDSP2 is not being
 recognized.
 The fact that it is intermittent indicates that there is a bad solder
 connection somewhere.
 You might try re-flowing the solder on the KDSP2 board.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] soldering - reliability long term

2006-12-14 Thread David Cutter
A colleague used to work for a tv manufacturer and they had a recurrent problem 
with tvs going sick after a few months.  It was traced to solder joints not 
made correctly.  Their soldering technique was satisfactory and the component 
manufacturers came over from Japan to investigate why the leads of the 
components were not always taking solder correctly.  

Turned out they had just fitted a new soap dispenser in the ladies' and filled 
it with soap containing lanolin.  This makes hands nice and soft but 
transferred to component leads it prevents solder making proper contact.  

Before soldering, wash your hands with pure soap and do not use creams etc.

On a similar theme, do not let silicone sprays or lubricants/grease anywhere 
near your shack/property/planet.  That stuff should be banned.  It stops 
anything sticking to anything and I don't know of a solvent.

David
G3UNA
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