FW: [Elecraft] Took one turn off all the toroids!

2007-03-22 Thread Brett gazdzinski
Well, I am scratching my head.
I unwound 1 turn off every toroid and transformer,
I did not do any of the RFC marked toroids as 
if they are acting as chokes, one more turn wont hurt
I guess.

No improvement in power out, it might actually be down a bit,
but I think I found my problem area.

The rig will actually put out 15 watts or more on all 
bands but 10 meters where it will do over 10, but only 
if I load down the RF output detector voltage.

The digital display and the bar graph on the rig both show
serious over power above 40 meters.
On 80 and 40 things track, but above that the rig reads
the output much higher than it is, on 10 meters the 
readout is over 10 or 12, the real power is 5 watts out.

What I did was to put a 10K ohm across R69, which reduces
the voltage output of the rf sense circuit.

When I do this, the power output on 80 and 40 is close to
or more than 20 watts, and stays above 15 up to 10 meters
where its down to 12 or there abouts.

Now the RF output detector talks to the cpu and that outputs
the values that read out on the bar graph and the digital
readout in the tune mode.

The cpu does correct the power, the cpu completely
controls the power, and that is my problem, since the output
sense circuit reports high above 40 meters, the cpu turns the
power down.

The RF output detector circuit is 4 resistors that
measure correctly, a .001 uf cap that is the correct value
(tried another as a test with no difference), and the
1N5711 diode.

This circuit is right on the antenna jack, and it 
reports to the cpu.

I have 50 ohms right on the antenna jack, no SWR, yet
the blasted thing reads high above 40 meters.

Could it be the diode?
Could a diode work better and put out more signal
at higher frequencies?


Here are the readings I get in the tune position:

Band watts requested  digital readout actual output  output sense voltage

80  10   12.8 12   4.12

40  10   11.5 10.2 3.83

20  10   11.6  8.8 3.85

15  10   11.6  7   3.8

10  10   11.3  6   3.65



I just don't get it.

Brett
N2DTS

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RE: [Elecraft] In defense of MFJ stuff

2007-03-22 Thread Siu Johnny
Their poducts and design ideas are all ok.  My only complaint is the 
quality control and dead on arrival rate.  That means if you pick up one of 
their working products, you will feel happy (but don't look at the internal 
construction details)


73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


From: "George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Subject: [Elecraft] In defense of MFJ stuff
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 20:07:46 -0400

Guess I'm lucky.  I have bought and used several MFJ products, and have 
never been disappointed in their functionality and quality.


I especially like the "Noise canceling signal enhancer", model 1026.  It 
can take an S6 line noise problem down to S1, if you use a proper auxiliary 
antenna, and learn how to use it.  No kidding, (and I don't work for 'em.)


73, n4ym, George

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[Elecraft] In defense of MFJ stuff

2007-03-22 Thread George
Guess I'm lucky.  I have bought and used several MFJ products, and have never 
been disappointed in their functionality and quality.

I especially like the "Noise canceling signal enhancer", model 1026.  It can 
take an S6 line noise problem down to S1, if you use a proper auxiliary 
antenna, and learn how to use it.  No kidding, (and I don't work for 'em.)

73, n4ym, George
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 D13

2007-03-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Hank,

Sorry but I need a bit of clarification from the manual that you have in 
hand and the KPA100 that you are building.  There have been upgrades in 
the last 4 months that make a difference in the areas you are having 
trouble with.


First question is - do you have a red or a blue toroid core at the L15 
location?  If it is red, you should have the Rev C manual and you will 
have a voltage at the cathode of D13 with no power connected to the KPA100.


OTOH, if you have a blue toroid core at L15, you should have the Rev D 
manual (be certain to download the latest errata sheet from the Elecraft 
website).  If this is your KPA100 level, then you will not measure any 
voltage on D13 unless the KPA100 power is connected.


-28 volts at U4 pin 8 is OK.  The small voltage you measure at J13 red 
lead is likely caused by light shining onto the PA transistors - they do 
exhibit some photovoltaic effects.  An 'open circuit' reading is OK at 
the cathode of D13 - the manual says greater than 10k ohms, and an open 
circuit does qualify as greater than 10k ohms.


Your use of the phrase 'no resistance' is confusing to me - do you mean 
that you measure zero ohms (no resistance)? or did you measure an open 
circuit (a reading above the capability of your meter)?


Let us know about the level of your KPA100 and be certain you are using 
the correct manual.  You may have no problem at all, but the level 
identification will determine problem or not.


73,
Don W3FPR

Hank Kryger wrote:

Hi to the group
I am working on a KPA100, page 43 manual, here the KPA is connected to 
the K2 with the ribbon cable, power to the K2 but NO power connected to 
the KPA100.
page 43 list a series of voltage tests ""ground to test point".  my 
problem is with D13. I do not get any voltage at D13 banded end.  Also 
U4 (MA1406) pin 8 has -28V manual calls for -5 to -25 V   TP1 has 
correct result, J3+lead (red) has.03V manual calls for 0V.
During the resistance tests of the KPA100, page 41, manual  I also had 
problems with the D13 measurement.  At first I had no reading,  reheated 
the connections for D13,  had first intermittent and after several tries 
the correct resistance.  When I did not get a voltage reading at D13, I 
disconnected the ribbon cable between KPA and K2, attempted again to get 
a resistance reading at D13.  This time I could not get a resistance 
reading at D13.  DMM show an open circuit.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks Hank WA9QJH

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[Elecraft] KPA100 D13

2007-03-22 Thread Hank Kryger

Hi to the group
I am working on a KPA100, page 43 manual, here the KPA is connected to 
the K2 with the ribbon cable, power to the K2 but NO power connected to 
the KPA100.
page 43 list a series of voltage tests ""ground to test point".  my 
problem is with D13. I do not get any voltage at D13 banded end.  Also 
U4 (MA1406) pin 8 has -28V manual calls for -5 to -25 V   TP1 has 
correct result, J3+lead (red) has.03V manual calls for 0V.
During the resistance tests of the KPA100, page 41, manual  I also had 
problems with the D13 measurement.  At first I had no reading,  
reheated the connections for D13,  had first intermittent and after 
several tries the correct resistance.  When I did not get a voltage 
reading at D13, I disconnected the ribbon cable between KPA and K2, 
attempted again to get a resistance reading at D13.  This time I could 
not get a resistance reading at D13.  DMM show an open circuit.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks Hank WA9QJH

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FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived

2007-03-22 Thread Brett gazdzinski

I think I did them right, you know it WOULD help if the 
drawings in the manual reflected the actual turns, like
the drawing on page 53, figure 6-15 shows 13 turns, no?

Looking on the next page, I now see they say its 14 turns.

Guess I will unwind a turn off each coil!

I must say, most of the adjustments did not require much
turning of coils or caps, nothing is close to the limit
of adjustment.

Brett
N2DTS
 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 4:45 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Kit arrived
> 
> Hi,
>  I don't suppose Bretts problem could be as simple as 
> having 1 turn too 
> many on the LP filter toroids? I fixed a K2 for a chap who 
> had done that, 
> and the higher band outputs especially, were rotten.  It is a common 
> problem for new kit builders to add an extra turn when 
> winding toroids by 
> not realizing that as soon as the wire passes through the 
> hole, that is 
> turn #1 ..
> Cheers.Ron ZL1TW
>   
> 
>  

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FW: FW: FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...

2007-03-22 Thread Brett gazdzinski
 
> 
> Brett,
> 
> I agree with Tom - that you should re-peak the bandpass 
> filters at low 
> power (1 to 2 watts)  It is easier to discern the peak at low 
> power and 
> there is lesser chance that the K2 power adjustment mechanism 
> will try 
> to compensate and confuse the response.

I tried that.
I did it at 1 watt, no real change.


> 
> Be certain to observe the correct band order for doing the bandpass 
> filter alignment - for any band pair, you must adjust the inductors 
> first and then the trimmer caps.  Do 80 and 40 meters in any 
> order, but 
> align 30 before 20, 15 before 17, 10 before 12.  If you have 
> the K60XV 
> installed, 40 must be aligned before 60 meters.  160 and 80 share the 
> same inductors, so you may have to compromise a bit between them, but 
> that filter is broad and there is plenty of reserve drive on those 
> bands.  On 10 meters, you may find better coverage across the 28.0 to 
> 28.8 MHz band if you do the alignment at 28400 kHz rather 
> than the 28200 
> mentioned in the manual. But if your main 10 meter interest 
> is CW, use 
> the 28.2 point.

I have been doing it that way (by the book).
I have no idea what is on what band, and when they are open.
I have been stuck on 80 and 40 meters weekend mornings for the last
15 years or so, I have checked out 20 and 15 meters at night with the K2
and there is nothing there, so I suppose they are more daytime bands?

 


> 
> Since you said you have a 'scope, you will find it easier to 
> watch for 
> the peak on the scope trace than to wait until the digital display 
> settles down.  Just connect your 'scope's 10X probe across the dummy 
> load.  Connect directly to the dummy load with a short connection for 
> the best results.
> 
> You will be able to see the RF voltage peak on the 'scope 
> easily.  You 
> are not trying for any specific voltage, just for the point 
> of the peak.
> If you do not use the 'scope, make the adjustments slowly to give the 
> digital display time to respond.
> 
> After peaking the bandpass at low power, you can re-check the 
> max power 
> output if you have any real doubts about it.

I think I am real close to maximum I am going to get out of the rig
without changes, and I am fine with 10 watts or more on most
bands, 10 meters is about 8 watts, I might try removing one turn
from L21 and L22 as a test.


Thanks,
Brett
N2DTS
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 qso's with a IC-703Plus?

2007-03-22 Thread epalmer
Fred, check out the IC703 Yahoo group. There is lots of discussion
regarding SSB and CW operation there. I own both the K2 and the 703 and
like both of them as both fit different needs for me.

73 de Ed N0EHQ

> This retiree, while he awaits some future K3 kit -
> picked up a used IC-703Plus QRP rig.  Has any
> K2 qrp'ers - worked hams with IC-703's.  Do they
> perform OK, and did they seem reliable for CW or
> and SSB?   Sorry for the bandwidth - but when K3
> hits the counter, I'll be in line.
>
> Fred N3CSY
>  great bunch of creative hams on this list!
>
>
>
>
> 
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
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RE: [Elecraft] XG2 mini-module

2007-03-22 Thread Siu Johnny


XG2 is a very useful tool in the radio shack.  It is a signal generator 
with fixed level so that you cna measure sensitivity of your radios no 
matter whether it is k2.


I recommend it but you have to watch out the shipping costs.  I would 
suggest you not only order a XG2.  You should get other things ordered from 
Elecraft as well. Otherwsie, the shipping cost will form a significant 
portion of the total costs.


73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC

From: "Dennis Vavra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Subject: [Elecraft] XG2 mini-module
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 20:12:21 -0500

I am interested in purchasing the XG2 test osc/swr cal.
My question...Can the XG2 be utlized on non Elecraft
transceivers,  or is it only useful on K1, or K2 etc...?
I would like to try it out on my Ten-Tec QRP rig
and SST.
Dennis Vavra,  AD5LY

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