Re: Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio output v headphone sensitiviy
From: "Fred Jensen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ... None of my 3 "K-rigs" [KX1, K2, K3] has enough audio *for me*." I'm nearly deaf and have been since one night 40 years ago on the other side of the planet. Those who need more audio, there is not only AF GAIN HI. Don't forget also the audio equalizer. With RX EQ you can add up to 16 dB to the desired audio band, or to the whole AF range. Val LZ1VB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Serial port problems
Thanks to all that responded. Peter, AC7SB, was a great help. As it turns out the CW sidetone source was selected to U6-25. That is where the data has to come from. Moving it back to U8-4 in the ST L menu did the trick. Now my only mystery is when/how/why did it change from default in the first place?? But all is well again. Thanks to all for the help. Jim wa7hrg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fw: [Elecraft] K3 antenna tiner related question
John, Yes, it does happen in ATU bypass mode. I wonder if there's some relationship to the RX input overload circuit? There are no other antennas connected to the radio. Perhaps there's some relationship to the unshielded wires going to the two coax connectors that are currently being discussed ... I converted the jacks to BNC's when the kit was built and the next time I have it open I plan to replace the two unshielded leads with RG-174. Unfortunately, I can't say if this is a "new" condition, as I can't hear the relay clicking in my "mornal" operating posture. It may well have been with me since the first turn-on. (:-) Ken --- Does it happen in the bypass mode? I wonder if there may be a little SWR left after the tune cycle, and when you key, the ATU tries to take it out. John k7up At 08:51 PM 16/07/08, you wrote: A relay in the area of the antenna tuner in my K3 (S/N 56) is clicking randomly on several bands as I send CW. It does -not- follow the CW keying and seems to be totally random in nature. The "click rate" isn't related to keying speed, either. T/R change-over delay isn't involved. I've had no reports of keying anomalies when on the air, and it sounds normal in my K2's receiver. There is only one antenna cable connected to the radio, to "ANT 1" Does anyone else observe this? It's quiet ... the only way I became aware of it was when I accidently bumped the key while I was leaning over the radio doing something behind it. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Quite true Jim. In this case Eric is saying there may be a leakage path through a relay. That doesn't affect how RF behaves in coax, but if that relay is leaking RF it can explain how controlling RF leakage elsewhere, such as by using coax, might not help. In both cases, theory supports reality. As you said, one must know enough - not just about electronics theory - but enough about the situation to understand what to expect. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 5:15 PM To: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:59:26 -0700, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: >Unfortunately theory does not always match reality. Theory ALWAYS matches reality -- when you know enough about both. :) >(i.e. there >are more variables than the person applying the theory is aware of..) Like I said. :) >In >this case we tried coax and it had no impact on improving isolation. >The predominant leakage path is inside the ant switching relay. Makes sense. Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 antenna tiner related question
Ken Does it happen in the bypass mode? I wonder if there may be a little SWR left after the tune cycle, and when you key, the ATU tries to take it out. John k7up At 08:51 PM 16/07/08, you wrote: A relay in the area of the antenna tuner in my K3 (S/N 56) is clicking randomly on several bands as I send CW. It does -not- follow the CW keying and seems to be totally random in nature. The "click rate" isn't related to keying speed, either. T/R change-over delay isn't involved. I've had no reports of keying anomalies when on the air, and it sounds normal in my K2's receiver. There is only one antenna cable connected to the radio, to "ANT 1" Does anyone else observe this? It's quiet ... the only way I became aware of it was when I accidently bumped the key while I was leaning over the radio doing something behind it. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 #1247 received
K3 #1247 Ordered kit 2/23 Katiegram 7/9 Shipped 7/10 UPS Ground Received in W9 7/16 73, Chad WE9V ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 antenna tiner related question
A relay in the area of the antenna tuner in my K3 (S/N 56) is clicking randomly on several bands as I send CW. It does -not- follow the CW keying and seems to be totally random in nature. The "click rate" isn't related to keying speed, either. T/R change-over delay isn't involved. I've had no reports of keying anomalies when on the air, and it sounds normal in my K2's receiver. There is only one antenna cable connected to the radio, to "ANT 1" Does anyone else observe this? It's quiet ... the only way I became aware of it was when I accidently bumped the key while I was leaning over the radio doing something behind it. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
It is spelled COUPLING, NOT coupleing... hard to believe no one corrected yet. - Original Message - From: "Jim Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Elecraft List" Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 8:14 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:59:26 -0700, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: Unfortunately theory does not always match reality. Theory ALWAYS matches reality -- when you know enough about both. :) (i.e. there are more variables than the person applying the theory is aware of..) Like I said. :) In this case we tried coax and it had no impact on improving isolation. The predominant leakage path is inside the ant switching relay. Makes sense. Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Yes. Each conductor carries one phase. Depending upon how you measure what's going on, I think it may indicate only 1/2 the total. For example, try measuring the voltage with respect to the earth. Each side will indicate 1/2 of the total voltage but, since they're opposite in sign, they add producing the total voltage. I believe current will work the same way if you can measure each side independently of the other. An interesting question. I don't believe I've really given it a lot of thought Ron -Original Message- Ron - Don't you mean that the center conductor carries all of the RF current, and the inside of the coaxial cable shield carries an equal amount of current, but of opposite phase? - Jim, KL7CC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio output v headphone sensitiviy
Bill Tippett wrote: I would wait until you get your K3 before doing anything. I'm not sure why some are having low audio output but that's not the case for my K3 with any headphones. Could it be that CONFIG: AF GAIN is set LO instead of the default HI? Folks, Bill is right, wait until the rig is in your shack before making any decisions. The K-rigs will work with a variety of headphones. You get to decide, after all, they are your ears. I started this thread ... "It seemed like a good idea at the time." One of these days I will learn :-) None of my 3 "K-rigs" [KX1, K2, K3] has enough audio *for me*." I'm nearly deaf and have been since one night 40 years ago on the other side of the planet. I did not mean to imply: That the audio is low for everyone That Heil headsets don't work good with K3's [I love my Proset K2 on K2 and K3] I use an external AF amplifier I got at Radio Shack since I know not everyone has my difficulty. Radio Shack does not build great AF amplifiers unfortunately, and I'm going to replace it as soon as I figure out how. The really great solution would be to be able to use the incredible hearing aids the VA has given me as headphones with my radios. They are full of DSP and compensate for my hearing loss, I know where the socket is on them, and I know the cables and plugs exist, they use them when they re-program the little guys. If anyone wanted to invent them, I'd be a beta tester and first customer! Hope to see everyone in the NAQP RTTY this Saturday, I'll be on my K2/100, haven't explored data modes with the K3 yet and I know how to make the K2 work. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTB: 10-MHz Test Oscillator Wanted
Keep an eye out on the "e=place"!! Look for a Measurements Corporation Model 111 crystal calibrator. They can be zeroed to WWV and stay within just a few parts per million if kept on all the time. I have seen them quite cheap at time there. Excellent little oscillator. 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: "Alan D. Wilcox" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "elecraft" Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 4:47 PM Subject: [Elecraft] WTB: 10-MHz Test Oscillator Wanted Hello, Want 10-MHz crystal oscillator that puts out a volt or so for frequency counter calibration check. Must have cap to set freq zeroed onto WWV for a few minutes operation; no long-term stability required. Something like the XG1 ... battery, BNC, not fancy. Thought this would be simple search ... a kit-builder's project. Guess nobody's making such a kit. Anybody have or know where to get? Thanks, Alan -- Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX 570-321-1516 http://WilcoxEngineering.com Williamsport, PA 17701 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.0/1555 - Release Date: 7/16/2008 6:43 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - for sale softrock IF panadapter kit with buffer interface
thanks for looking, it's sold now. k6te Wim wrote: > > Hi > > I have no time to build these 2 small kits so I'm selling them unbuild. > One is the softrock lite for K3 IF application (8.215 Mhz) and the > other is a Z1 buffer amplifier to be put between the K3 IF out and the > softrock input. > I also have 2 audio isolation transformers 600 ohms from bourns which will > allow to isolate > the softrock I and Q outputs to the PC soundcard. > > For more information > Z1 > http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm > > Softrock SR6.2 lite for K3 IF > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/softrock40/ > > Selling all for $45 shipped CONUS > contact [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3---for-sale-softrock-IF-panadapter-kit-with-buffer-interface-tp532379p532427.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:59:26 -0700, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: >Unfortunately theory does not always match reality. Theory ALWAYS matches reality -- when you know enough about both. :) >(i.e. there >are more variables than the person applying the theory is aware of..) Like I said. :) >In >this case we tried coax and it had no impact on improving isolation. >The predominant leakage path is inside the ant switching relay. Makes sense. Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Antenna Feedline Current Measurements
Let's try spaces instead of tabs for the tables. Here's a summary of the sums of the scale readings (side1 plus side 2). Keep in mind that I may have switched scales from band to band but it is the relative numbers in each row are all on the same scale. BandJMBDirect4to11to1 Sum Sum Sum Sum 160 X84 7175 80 73 62 6765 40 124 87108 84 30 93 75101 88 20 73 149 6142 17 140 117 135 117 15 75 808080 12 50 495755 10 70 657367 6 X 444445 Here's a summary of the differences of the scale readings. The smaller the better. The direct case is pretty poor except for 160m and 6m. JMB Direct4to1 1to1 Band Diff DiffDiffDiff 160X 6 7 5 80 3 20 3 1 40 6 23 12 18 30-3 65 3 8 20 3 11 3 2 17 2 33 17 7 15 1 16 4 4 12 0 11 1 1 10 0 25 3 3 6 X 0 2 3 73, John W2XS -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Balanced-Antenna-Feedline-Current-Measurements-tp532291p532403.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTB: 10-MHz Test Oscillator Wanted
Don, The XG1 output isn't enough signal for the scope (and its output, which is connected to my freq counter). No adjustment cap either. http://www.aade.com/newfreq/new%20freq.htm does have merit. If there's a cap in there to tweak at some future time, then it should do the trick. Thanks, Alan-- Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX 570-321-1516 http://WilcoxEngineering.com Williamsport, PA 17701 Don Wilhelm wrote: Alan, Why not just build an XG1 and put a 10 MHz crystal in it - it will only do -73 dBm output as a stock item, but I am certain you could run it through an amplifier. Of course, there is always the AADE frequency standard that claim 1ppm long term accuracy. 73, Don W3FPR Alan D. Wilcox wrote: Hello, Want 10-MHz crystal oscillator that puts out a volt or so for frequency counter calibration check. Must have cap to set freq zeroed onto WWV for a few minutes operation; no long-term stability required. Something like the XG1 ... battery, BNC, not fancy. Thought this would be simple search ... a kit-builder's project. Guess nobody's making such a kit. Anybody have or know where to get? Thanks, Alan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 - for sale softrock IF panadapter kit with buffer interface
Hi I have no time to build these 2 small kits so I'm selling them unbuild. One is the softrock lite for K3 IF application (8.215 Mhz) and the other is a Z1 buffer amplifier to be put between the K3 IF out and the softrock input. I also have 2 audio isolation transformers 600 ohms from bourns which will allow to isolate the softrock I and Q outputs to the PC soundcard. For more information Z1 http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm Softrock SR6.2 lite for K3 IF http://groups.yahoo.com/group/softrock40/ Selling all for $45 shipped CONUS contact [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3---for-sale-softrock-IF-panadapter-kit-with-buffer-interface-tp532379p532379.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Received K3 kit sn 1245 July 15
Hi All, Ordered 22 Feb Katiegram 10 July In UK 11 July, four days to get to North of Scotland. The 6 kHz filter on back order. Have built the 10 Watt version, still have to install the 100 Watt PA. No real problems with the build, just the front panel fiddle, needed another pair of hands. The main problem seemed to be the 2D blocks getting in the way. After I cleared them the panel went on fine. The K3 powered up really well with no errors displayed. I have enjoyed the first few hours so far, glad I used the filter config utility. I think it will make a very fine replacement for my old Ten Tec Corsair II. Tim GM4LMH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Ham and Son Electrocuted
This is a very sad occurrence and our hearts go out to the griefing family and friends. It is a reminder to all of us that amateur radio has its very dangerous sides. High voltages in the shack, power lines, heavy and tall antenna structures and work at lethal heights. Even less visible risks lurk there, such as RF exposure, toxic solder fumes, etc. Let this terrible accident be a reminder to all of us not to get comfortable with dangerous work. The other day I was in a hurry and bypassed my safety line, not for the first time, while crawling out on the roof to fix a "routine" antenna situation. A wet spot or a slip of the foot would not be taken back. I'll rather be safe than sorry the next time. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Bruce Prior-2 wrote: > > > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:20:32 -0600 > From: "Bruce Rattray" > Subject: [qrp-canada] FW: [skcc] Ham and Son Electrocuted > To: "QRP-Canada Reflector-" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > *** WARNING!! *** > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Cliff > Fox KU4GW > Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 7:40 AM > To: 3895_Group; NCXMS Group; W4ERT ARES RACES; SKCC Group > Subject: [skcc] Ham and Son Electrocuted > > Ham and Son Electrocuted > > > > Filed under: Ham Radio by Bob Olsen at 10:21 am on Monday, July 14, 2008 > > A ham radio operator and his son were electrocuted Sunday while trying to > put up an antenna in Kansas City, Kansas. Details are here. These deaths > motivated Chuck Kraly, K?XM, to write this cautionary message. > > > > We lost another ham today, and it is a very sad event. The parties > involved, > were installing a Comet FIBERGLASS antenna, that came in contact with a > single 7,620 volt power line. Now how do I know what the exact voltage is? > I > built and maintained the substation that fed this circuit. I spent 27 > yrears > as a substaion technician for the Board of Public Utilities. I am still in > this field. So, I feel I have some experience in what I am passing along. > > > > In a nutshell, the location of the accident was a few blocks from the > substation. The wires you see going thru the residential areas are AT > MINUMUM 7,200 volts from each wire to ground, and between any two of them > is > 13,800 volts. This is nothing to play with at any time. I have seen a > fault > TOTALLY vaporize 1" copper buss (which is solid). Imagine what it can do > to > a human. > > > > Each wire is fed from what is called a 3 phase line. From there, it can be > broken off and sent down a property line as a single wire. Those are > called > laterals" Yes, you will see a device at the break out point, and this is a > fuse. BUT the caution needs to be conveyed. These fuses are in the 60-100 > amp range. This is at 7,200 volts. On top of that, anytime a tree falls > across a line, or a pole gets hit, there is a circuit on the "feeder" at > the > substation that AUTOMATICALLY closes the feeder back in, and TRIES to > restore the power to the area. Some of these "reclosers" can operate 2-5 > times, depending on how they are set. Now from the substaion end, the > protective device is set for the full fault capabilites of the line. In > the > case of BPU, this can be set at 600 AMPS, and multiples of that value. The > protective devices are set for what is called a "time" or and > "instantaneous > operation. Picture a fast blow fuse and a slow blow, and you will > understand the difference in the settings. These setting are at multiple > of > the 600 amp value. So, if there is a direct short, then it will not trip > until it reaches a value at, oh lets say, 8 times that value. So we are > looking at 4800 amps. and this is at 7,200 volts and lower. So, it trips, > then it energizes it AGAIN. The possiblity of survival is slim and none. > > > > Now remember how I said they were installing a FIBERGLASS antenna? Well > guess what. It is metal inside. Yes, fiberglass does not radiate as we all > know. Hence the metal. That is what caused the accident. They got too > close > to the line (remember your 'magnetic lines of flux' theory? If not, look > it > up on the web). There is a minimum approach area that MUST be followed. > This > changes for ALL voltages. This distance must NOT be broken. If it is a > flashover will happen, and it is not pretty. Electricity will find the > shortest path to ground. In this case it was a couple of men. > > > > Folks, this is nothing to take chances with. In my almost 30 yrs as a ham, > and 27 yrs in the power utility field, I have seen way too many > "accidents." > Stop, look and if it is close or SEEMS that way- DON'T. Find another > place. > High voltage lines are NOT forgiving. Your life depends on it. You always > hear "it is the amps not the volts" well I can tell you when you get at > these levels, who is going to argue what killed the person who had the > accident. PLEASE ,PLEASE follow the
Re: [Elecraft] WTB: 10-MHz Test Oscillator Wanted
Alan, take a look at this: http://kitsandparts.com/fref.php 73, Dick, W0NTA Greeley, CO Alan D. Wilcox wrote: > > Hello, > > Want 10-MHz crystal oscillator that puts out a volt or so for frequency > counter calibration check. > > Must have cap to set freq zeroed onto WWV for a few minutes operation; > no long-term stability required. > Something like the XG1 ... battery, BNC, not fancy. > > Thought this would be simple search ... a kit-builder's project. Guess > nobody's making such a kit. > > Anybody have or know where to get? > > Thanks, > Alan > > -- > Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX > 570-321-1516 > http://WilcoxEngineering.com > Williamsport, PA 17701 > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/WTB%3A-10-MHz-Test-Oscillator-Wanted-tp532266p532331.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Received K3 kit sn 1256 July 16
Ordered the K3 on Feb 25. Received the Katigram on July 10. Assembly is delayed for a few days since I have out of town company. Looking forward to completion. 73s Bob, W7UDG **Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com! (http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus0005000112) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Balanced Antenna Feedline Current Measurements
I used an MFJ-835 Balanced Antenna current meter to measure the currents in each side of the ladder line connected to my Cobra Ultralite antenna. It has two 0 to 100 scales on it. One is for Side1 and the other for Side2 of the ladder line. I compared the Johnson Matchbox, the KAT3/BL2 balun (4 to 1 ratio), the KAT3/BL2 balun (1 to 1 ratio), and the KAT3 directly connected to the ladder line with no balun. In each case there was a 1 to 1 SWR on the K3 SWR meter and the K3 was set to 100W. The antenna current meter was in the same spot for all tests which is right after a DPDT knife switch that can switch between the Matchbox output and the direct (or balun) connections. (I also switch between the MB input and the balun.ladder line input). I wrote down the scale reading for each of the 4 matching circuits. Then I added Side1 plus Side2 (to show the total current) and subtracted Side2 from Side1 (to show the balance). I am still digesting the data, but here is what I think it is telling me: 1. The balance with the Johnson Matchbox is pretty good (within 10%) from 80 to 10, including WARC bands. My antenna itself slopes down on one end so the balance isn't perfect to begin with. 2. With a direct connection form the K3 (and KAT3) right to the antenna, the match is OK but the balance is poor to horrible from band to band. On 30 meters, the reading on the 0 to 100 scale was 70 on one side and 5 on the other! Only on 160m and 6m does the balance look decent (within 10 to 20%). The other bands are very unbalanced compared to the JMB. 3. Except for a band or two, the balance is reasonable with the BL2 balun in the line. I find that both the K3 and K2 can find perfect matches in the 4 to 1 position, but the K2 has trouble on some bands in the 1 to 1 position. But the balun heated up significantly on 40 and 20m indicating some kind of loss. I have not yet tried other bands. 4. The built-in tuner finds a perfect match with or without the balun, but the balance is way different from band to band. 5. This is very subjective, but I think the bands sound quieter with the Matchbox in line and noisiest with the direct connection. 6. Due to the balun heating, the use of a balun on the output of an unbalanced antenna tuner is not the best idea - although it will work and contacts will be made. The best situation would be to have a built-in BALANCED antenna tuner that remembers its settings from band to band connected right to the ladder line but this does not (yet?) exist. Here's a summary of the sums of the scale readings (side1 plus side 2). Keep in mind that I may have switched scales from band to band but it is the relative numbers in each row are all on the same scale. JMB Direct 4to11to1 Sum Sum Sum Sum 160 84 71 75 80 73 62 67 65 40 124 87 108 84 30 93 75 101 88 20 73 50 61 42 17 140 117 135 117 15 75 80 80 80 12 50 49 57 55 10 70 65 73 67 6 44 44 45 Here's a summary of the differences of the scale readings. The smaller the better. The direct case is pretty poor except for 160m and 6m. JMB Direct 4to11to1 DiffDiffDiffDiff 160 6 7 5 80 3 20 3 1 40 6 23 12 18 30 -3 65 3 8 20 3 4 3 2 17 2 33 17 7 15 1 16 4 4 12 0 11 1 1 10 0 25 3 3 6 0 2 3 In summary, for me, I think that the use of the Johnson Matchbox is the best choice for 80 to 10. It has the hoghest totqal power output and best balance. For 160 and 6 (and general coverage receive), direct seems the best choice except that the meter arced on 10m in the direct connection case. It didn't do that in any other case. I haven't opened it up to look inside. For the no-balun case, if the antenna tuner is remotely located, then it is possible that the unbalance can be reduced with a choke on the matched coax line. If the antenna tuner is built into the rig, then it's hard to do that. 73, John W2XS -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Balanced-Antenna-Feedline-Current-Measurements-tp532291p532291.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTB: 10-MHz Test Oscillator Wanted
> Want 10-MHz crystal oscillator that puts out a volt or so for frequency > counter calibration check. > Alan, M3 Electronix, Inc has such an item that they have for sale as a completed item. Used in calibrating their FPM-1 Frequency Counter/Power Meter Kit. Also you might want to look for an HP-10811 Crystal Oscillator that often shows up on EBay...this can be slaved with GPS for an extremely active 10 MHz standard with some additional electronics...or for more money go with a ribidium unit. www.m3electronix.com 73 Don -VE1AOE- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
If I had a dollar for every time I did what the theory told me to do just to find that doing something completely different ended up being the right answer. I find this to be the case often when doing ESD and EMI work. Usually after you find the answer you can make up what the problem was by using the theory but there are so many variables that you don't know about that you can't go straight from theory to the answer. You go from theory to stuff to try but not to the answer! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 1:59 PM To: Ron D'Eau Claire Cc: 'Elecraft'; Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing Ron - Unfortunately theory does not always match reality. (i.e. there are more variables than the person applying the theory is aware of..) In this case we tried coax and it had no impact on improving isolation. The predominant leakage path is inside the ant switching relay. Please do not post that though as Wayne will make the official statement when he has time. e Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Lennart's comments fit my experience. There isn't a "ground loop" formed by > using coax and it does eliminate much of the RF currents floating about at > random inside the rig. > > With the RF current flowing at the center pin connected to coax, the RF > energy must propagate along the *inside* of the coax, with RF currents > flowing on the outside of the center conductor and on the *inside* surface > of the shield. There is only one significant path for the RF: through the > coax. > > Since the center conductor, carrying 1/2 of the RF current, is electrically > isolated from the rest of the rig, there is nothing to encourage RF current > to flow from the connector outer conductor through the metal cabinet to some > other terminal. As noted, RF isn't DC or low-frequency AC. Indeed, it's > useful to consider a wire (or coax) carrying RF as a sort of "wave-guide"; > not the classic stuff used at microwaves, but nevertheless a guide that > directs the RF energy. In that respect, the RF energy flows through the > space between the conductors while inducing RF currents along the surfaces > of those conductors. In coax, the RF energy flows through the dielectric > between the center and shield. That's why dielectric has such a huge effect > on the electrical length of a piece of coax. It retards the RF wave > propagation. > > If a bare wire is used, the RF will flow between it and some convenient > conductor connected to the shielded side of the conductor, such as the > cabinet, pc board ground, etc. That produces an RF field that fills the > space between them which might include lots of other circuits in which the > RF field induces currents. Those are currents that can cause mischief if > they get into an RF-sensitive circuit. > > In any design where I want to isolate the RF I use coaxial cable on all > internal RF connections. Generally it's "overkill" but that's the luxury of > building a one-only homebrew project in which a few extra dollars in parts > is insignificant. That's not the case in something that must be manufactured > at a competitive price and at a profit. That requires engineering expertise > that can evaluate exactly where additional shielding is needed and how much. > > As I often note, engineering is all about making compromises. Great > engineering is about making great compromises. > > Yes, a "hood" on back of a female SO239 might be good, but I've found little > need for one at HF. It might be needed in this case if extreme isolation is > wanted, but I'd be surprised if that were the case. > > Ron AC7AC > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lennart Michaëlsson > > Vic, > I would not go for that solution because the insulated part of the coax > inside the cabinet would reradiate anything coming on the coax from the > outside. Best solution is short piece of coax grounded on the inside of > cabinet AND at the antenna tuner. That is my opinion, humbly yours Len > SM7BIC > > That's certainly part of the problem. But just adding a ground wire might > create a ground loop. I guess the best way to do it would be to insulate the > SO239's from the chassis, and use hoods on them with coax! > -- > 73, > Vic, K2VCO > Fresno CA > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http:/
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Help, I messed up the dial calibration!!!
Steve Kallal wrote: The part that wasn't clear to me at first, was the need to redo CAL PLL & CAL FIL after EACH C22 adjustment. I read so many comments on the C22 doesn't control the dial calibration, it only controls the frequency counter used in the dial calibration. Once you've done the calibration, including filters, you could actually turn C22 to end stop without compromising the calibration. reflector archives that mentioned simply listening to WWV and listen for zero beat. Obviously that is in the greater context of CAL PLL & CAL FIL reruns. Whilst the frequency counter is slightly off, you can work out how much to over/under-correct, and therefore considerably reduce the number of iterations. It's sufficiently long since I did this that I cannot remember the exact details. -- David Woolley Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want. RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam, that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: 10-MHz Test Oscillator Wanted
Hello, Want 10-MHz crystal oscillator that puts out a volt or so for frequency counter calibration check. Must have cap to set freq zeroed onto WWV for a few minutes operation; no long-term stability required. Something like the XG1 ... battery, BNC, not fancy. Thought this would be simple search ... a kit-builder's project. Guess nobody's making such a kit. Anybody have or know where to get? Thanks, Alan -- Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX 570-321-1516 http://WilcoxEngineering.com Williamsport, PA 17701 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
That's OK Eric, we won't tell. It will be our secret. - Jim, KL7CC Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: Ahh - The dangers of cc: lists on email. Looks like I just answered 'officially' to the list :-) 73, Eric WA6HHQ _..._ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Ahh - The dangers of cc: lists on email. Looks like I just answered 'officially' to the list :-) 73, Eric WA6HHQ _..._ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Ron - Don't you mean that the center conductor carries all of the RF current, and the inside of the coaxial cable shield carries an equal amount of current, but of opposite phase? - Jim, KL7CC Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Since the center conductor, carrying 1/2 of the RF current, is electrically isolated from the rest of the rig, ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Ron - Unfortunately theory does not always match reality. (i.e. there are more variables than the person applying the theory is aware of..) In this case we tried coax and it had no impact on improving isolation. The predominant leakage path is inside the ant switching relay. Please do not post that though as Wayne will make the official statement when he has time. e Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Lennart's comments fit my experience. There isn't a "ground loop" formed by using coax and it does eliminate much of the RF currents floating about at random inside the rig. With the RF current flowing at the center pin connected to coax, the RF energy must propagate along the *inside* of the coax, with RF currents flowing on the outside of the center conductor and on the *inside* surface of the shield. There is only one significant path for the RF: through the coax. Since the center conductor, carrying 1/2 of the RF current, is electrically isolated from the rest of the rig, there is nothing to encourage RF current to flow from the connector outer conductor through the metal cabinet to some other terminal. As noted, RF isn't DC or low-frequency AC. Indeed, it's useful to consider a wire (or coax) carrying RF as a sort of "wave-guide"; not the classic stuff used at microwaves, but nevertheless a guide that directs the RF energy. In that respect, the RF energy flows through the space between the conductors while inducing RF currents along the surfaces of those conductors. In coax, the RF energy flows through the dielectric between the center and shield. That's why dielectric has such a huge effect on the electrical length of a piece of coax. It retards the RF wave propagation. If a bare wire is used, the RF will flow between it and some convenient conductor connected to the shielded side of the conductor, such as the cabinet, pc board ground, etc. That produces an RF field that fills the space between them which might include lots of other circuits in which the RF field induces currents. Those are currents that can cause mischief if they get into an RF-sensitive circuit. In any design where I want to isolate the RF I use coaxial cable on all internal RF connections. Generally it's "overkill" but that's the luxury of building a one-only homebrew project in which a few extra dollars in parts is insignificant. That's not the case in something that must be manufactured at a competitive price and at a profit. That requires engineering expertise that can evaluate exactly where additional shielding is needed and how much. As I often note, engineering is all about making compromises. Great engineering is about making great compromises. Yes, a "hood" on back of a female SO239 might be good, but I've found little need for one at HF. It might be needed in this case if extreme isolation is wanted, but I'd be surprised if that were the case. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lennart Michaëlsson Vic, I would not go for that solution because the insulated part of the coax inside the cabinet would reradiate anything coming on the coax from the outside. Best solution is short piece of coax grounded on the inside of cabinet AND at the antenna tuner. That is my opinion, humbly yours Len SM7BIC That's certainly part of the problem. But just adding a ground wire might create a ground loop. I guess the best way to do it would be to insulate the SO239's from the chassis, and use hoods on them with coax! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Lennart's comments fit my experience. There isn't a "ground loop" formed by using coax and it does eliminate much of the RF currents floating about at random inside the rig. With the RF current flowing at the center pin connected to coax, the RF energy must propagate along the *inside* of the coax, with RF currents flowing on the outside of the center conductor and on the *inside* surface of the shield. There is only one significant path for the RF: through the coax. Since the center conductor, carrying 1/2 of the RF current, is electrically isolated from the rest of the rig, there is nothing to encourage RF current to flow from the connector outer conductor through the metal cabinet to some other terminal. As noted, RF isn't DC or low-frequency AC. Indeed, it's useful to consider a wire (or coax) carrying RF as a sort of "wave-guide"; not the classic stuff used at microwaves, but nevertheless a guide that directs the RF energy. In that respect, the RF energy flows through the space between the conductors while inducing RF currents along the surfaces of those conductors. In coax, the RF energy flows through the dielectric between the center and shield. That's why dielectric has such a huge effect on the electrical length of a piece of coax. It retards the RF wave propagation. If a bare wire is used, the RF will flow between it and some convenient conductor connected to the shielded side of the conductor, such as the cabinet, pc board ground, etc. That produces an RF field that fills the space between them which might include lots of other circuits in which the RF field induces currents. Those are currents that can cause mischief if they get into an RF-sensitive circuit. In any design where I want to isolate the RF I use coaxial cable on all internal RF connections. Generally it's "overkill" but that's the luxury of building a one-only homebrew project in which a few extra dollars in parts is insignificant. That's not the case in something that must be manufactured at a competitive price and at a profit. That requires engineering expertise that can evaluate exactly where additional shielding is needed and how much. As I often note, engineering is all about making compromises. Great engineering is about making great compromises. Yes, a "hood" on back of a female SO239 might be good, but I've found little need for one at HF. It might be needed in this case if extreme isolation is wanted, but I'd be surprised if that were the case. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lennart Michaëlsson Vic, I would not go for that solution because the insulated part of the coax inside the cabinet would reradiate anything coming on the coax from the outside. Best solution is short piece of coax grounded on the inside of cabinet AND at the antenna tuner. That is my opinion, humbly yours Len SM7BIC That's certainly part of the problem. But just adding a ground wire might create a ground loop. I guess the best way to do it would be to insulate the SO239's from the chassis, and use hoods on them with coax! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
SV: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Vic, I would not go for that solution because the insulated part of the coax inside the cabinet would reradiate anything coming on the coax from the outside. Best solution is short piece of coax grounded on the inside of cabinet AND at the antenna tuner. That is my opinion, humbly yours Len SM7BIC That's certainly part of the problem. But just adding a ground wire might create a ground loop. I guess the best way to do it would be to insulate the SO239's from the chassis, and use hoods on them with coax! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Don Wilhelm wrote: Vic, The K3 uses only a single wire to connect to the SO-239 jacks. The return path is through the chassis metal. If one adds a direct return path from the SO-239, that eliminates the potential for a haphazard path for the return current. While a chassis return may be good enough in one situation, let's suppose that the builder did not tighten the SO-239 mounting screws adequately, or the mounting hardware has begun to oxidize, then the return path becomes more 'iffy'. Attaching a return wire from a lug on the SO-239 to the board ground provides a fixed return path that is not dependent on the chassis. Note that the return currents for the two antenna connections can possibly interfere with each other if there is any small voltage differential on the chassis (there always is a differential, the question is just how small a differential is tolerable). That's certainly part of the problem. But just adding a ground wire might create a ground loop. I guess the best way to do it would be to insulate the SO239's from the chassis, and use hoods on them with coax! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3: beta 2.16
No comments there about experience with beta 2.16? Seems to be related mostly to KRX3 implementation. 73! Lexa, OK1DST ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdie ?
You are correct in saying that the birdie is being generated inside the K2. What is happening is that the fundamental or a harmonic of some oscillator inside the K2, or a mixture from two or more oscillators, is equal in frequency to one of the many spurious response frequencies of the K2's receiver (or any other receiver) when the receiver is tuned to 3590 kHz. I could tell you which oscillators are involved if I had my notes here, but must warn that the cure is painful. This is not an unusual problem if shielding and lead filtering is not used to keep the 'gremlins' at bay. Most birdies can be eliminated but it is usually a very painful task if the design is 'open plan'. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "K2/100 S/N 838" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 8:03 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Birdie ? Dear Kindly List Members, Thanks for alerting me this is not normal. Yes, I do have enough savy to take the antenna off, and yes, even with a dummy load there is no difference. It is something internal in the K2/100. If no one on the list has any idea what is causing it, I'll drop a note to Gary, Don, or one of the other Elecraft experts. Thanks, TR, WB6TMY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Ham and Son Electrocuted
Message: 1 Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:20:32 -0600 From: "Bruce Rattray" Subject: [qrp-canada] FW: [skcc] Ham and Son Electrocuted To: "QRP-Canada Reflector-" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" *** WARNING!! *** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cliff Fox KU4GW Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 7:40 AM To: 3895_Group; NCXMS Group; W4ERT ARES RACES; SKCC Group Subject: [skcc] Ham and Son Electrocuted Ham and Son Electrocuted Filed under: Ham Radio by Bob Olsen at 10:21 am on Monday, July 14, 2008 A ham radio operator and his son were electrocuted Sunday while trying to put up an antenna in Kansas City, Kansas. Details are here. These deaths motivated Chuck Kraly, K?XM, to write this cautionary message. We lost another ham today, and it is a very sad event. The parties involved, were installing a Comet FIBERGLASS antenna, that came in contact with a single 7,620 volt power line. Now how do I know what the exact voltage is? I built and maintained the substation that fed this circuit. I spent 27 yrears as a substaion technician for the Board of Public Utilities. I am still in this field. So, I feel I have some experience in what I am passing along. In a nutshell, the location of the accident was a few blocks from the substation. The wires you see going thru the residential areas are AT MINUMUM 7,200 volts from each wire to ground, and between any two of them is 13,800 volts. This is nothing to play with at any time. I have seen a fault TOTALLY vaporize 1" copper buss (which is solid). Imagine what it can do to a human. Each wire is fed from what is called a 3 phase line. From there, it can be broken off and sent down a property line as a single wire. Those are called laterals" Yes, you will see a device at the break out point, and this is a fuse. BUT the caution needs to be conveyed. These fuses are in the 60-100 amp range. This is at 7,200 volts. On top of that, anytime a tree falls across a line, or a pole gets hit, there is a circuit on the "feeder" at the substation that AUTOMATICALLY closes the feeder back in, and TRIES to restore the power to the area. Some of these "reclosers" can operate 2-5 times, depending on how they are set. Now from the substaion end, the protective device is set for the full fault capabilites of the line. In the case of BPU, this can be set at 600 AMPS, and multiples of that value. The protective devices are set for what is called a "time" or and "instantaneous operation. Picture a fast blow fuse and a slow blow, and you will understand the difference in the settings. These setting are at multiple of the 600 amp value. So, if there is a direct short, then it will not trip until it reaches a value at, oh lets say, 8 times that value. So we are looking at 4800 amps. and this is at 7,200 volts and lower. So, it trips, then it energizes it AGAIN. The possiblity of survival is slim and none. Now remember how I said they were installing a FIBERGLASS antenna? Well guess what. It is metal inside. Yes, fiberglass does not radiate as we all know. Hence the metal. That is what caused the accident. They got too close to the line (remember your 'magnetic lines of flux' theory? If not, look it up on the web). There is a minimum approach area that MUST be followed. This changes for ALL voltages. This distance must NOT be broken. If it is a flashover will happen, and it is not pretty. Electricity will find the shortest path to ground. In this case it was a couple of men. Folks, this is nothing to take chances with. In my almost 30 yrs as a ham, and 27 yrs in the power utility field, I have seen way too many "accidents." Stop, look and if it is close or SEEMS that way- DON'T. Find another place. High voltage lines are NOT forgiving. Your life depends on it. You always hear "it is the amps not the volts" well I can tell you when you get at these levels, who is going to argue what killed the person who had the accident. PLEASE ,PLEASE follow the warnings. ANYWHERE close is too close. Stay safe, and I hope we can enjoy many more years of hamming. James KB7TBT NEGARC Activities Manager www.kb7tbt.com www.ne4ga.org www.myspace.com/kb7tbt J. Bruce Prior 853 Alder Street Blaine, WA 98230-8030 360-332-6046 Amateur Radio Station N7RR Grid CN88px _ Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_family_safety_072008___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdie ?
TR, That is close to the TV color burst frequency (3.579545 MHz). A badly functioning TV could possibly put out a signal at 3590 (but it would not receive color very well). You may want to turn the TVs off and check again. If you are in a closely populated suburban neighborhood you might have to wait for a power outage to really check it :-) . 73, Don W3FPR K2/100 S/N 868 wrote: I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Birdie ?
Dear Kindly List Members, Thanks for alerting me this is not normal. Yes, I do have enough savy to take the antenna off, and yes, even with a dummy load there is no difference. It is something internal in the K2/100. If no one on the list has any idea what is causing it, I'll drop a note to Gary, Don, or one of the other Elecraft experts. Thanks, TR, WB6TMY --- >I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? > >Thanks, > >TR, WB6TMY Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdie ?
IF you have the USB/Serial adapter, try unplugging that from the K3 AND the computer -- it's powered by the computer. The first one that came with the K3 was S9 in the 160m band; replacing the USB/serial adapter cured it. W6NEK <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi OM, Do you hear the signal with a dummy load connected? Do different antennas affect the signal strength? What do you hear if you disconnect the antenna? What needs to be determined is if the signal is internal or external to your K2. Disconnecting the antenna should give you a some insight if it's internal or not. 73, Frank - W6NEK - Original Message - From: "K2/100 S/N 868" To: Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:16 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Birdie ? >I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? > > Thanks, > > TR, WB6TMY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdie ?
My K2/100 #3255 receiver produced a strong birdie at or within a couple hundred Hz of 3590 kHz. Unfortunately I do not have most of my 'K2 Birdie' notes here, but IIRC there is at least one receiver crossover spurious response which results in this birdie. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "K2/100 S/N 868" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 7:16 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Birdie ? I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? Thanks, TR, WB6TMY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdie ?
Hi OM, Do you hear the signal with a dummy load connected? Do different antennas affect the signal strength? What do you hear if you disconnect the antenna? What needs to be determined is if the signal is internal or external to your K2. Disconnecting the antenna should give you a some insight if it's internal or not. 73, Frank - W6NEK - Original Message - From: "K2/100 S/N 868" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:16 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Birdie ? I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? > Thanks, > TR, WB6TMY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft] Birdie ?
Does it change with / without an antenna connected? From my power company interference chasing days ... there -are- touch lamps with their sensing circuits that operate in that vicinity. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP K3 #56 K2 #5665 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdie ?
No it's not normal! W7QHD, Kurt K2 sn 1538 K2/100 S/N 868 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? > > Thanks, > > TR, WB6TMY > > Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Birdie ?
I am showing a very strong signal at 3590 KHz - is this normal ? Thanks, TR, WB6TMY Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Quiet Phone
If your shack is quiet, you probably wouldn't get much benefit from the quiet phone, IMO. Where I noticed it to be most effective was at field day, where it really took out the drone of the generators that were a wee bit too close to our operating position for a while. I've been told it can be quiet effective in multi-op contesting environments too. The other thing to be aware of is that the quiet phone is notoriously susceptible to RFI when active - read the eham reviews... ~Iain KB1PXD wrote on 07/16/08 05:27: BTW, I'm not locked down to the Quiet Phones. If someone thinks the regular Proset phones are a better value, I'm completely open to suggestions. These will be used exclusively in my shack which is pretty quiet to begin with. Thanks, - Bill KB1PXD wrote: I'm thinking about swinging by HRO this afternoon to grab the Heil Proset Quiet Phone for my K3. Assuming that I want to use the back connectors for a cleaner installation, what additional adapters/cables will I need to get this working? I'd prefer not to use VOX unless someone can convince me otherwise. (I'm never used VOX before so I guess I'm a little gun shy) Also, what element would you recommend? I'm pretty much an exclusive DX operator. Thanks, - Bill kb1pxd ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
I had a similar isolation problem between ANT 1 and ANT 2 in my KAT100, discovered by accident after working somebody in EU on 15m using a shielded dummy load connected to ANT 2. Replacing the bare leads between the switching relay and connectors with coax increased the isolation significantly, but I also had to add a smallish relay at the ANT 1 / ANT 2 switching relay K18 to ground the connection not in use to achieve acceptable isolation on the higher bands. A DPDT relay to both switch and ground together with coax would of course be a better method. YMMV with the K3. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Stewart Baker wrote on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 at 5:23 PM David, A very good point. Although the space is rather restricted for RG58/U it should be possible to fit some of the smaller diameter cable such as that used to connect between VHF/UHF PCB's. I have some silver braided coax that would be suitable. It would have little adverse effect over such a small length, but might provide additional isolation. Food for thought... 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:12:22 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: >The K3 uses only a single wire to connect to the SO-239 jacks. The >return path is through the chassis metal. If one adds a direct return >path from the SO-239, that eliminates the potential for a haphazard path >for the return current. While a chassis return may be good enough in >one situation, One of the first things they teach you in EMC 101 (they have those courses in some of the better EE schools) is that at RF, current will follow coax and ignore a much better DC path, while at DC and low audio, it follows Ohm's Law. Those single wire jumpers are simply bad RF design, and are a major cause of the isolation deficiency noted. The connection back through the chassis is only good at and near DC, because it adds the inductance (and loop area) of that wire jumper and the chassis return to the RF path. Those jumpers should be coax. Period. 50/75 ohms doesn't matter much, it simply needs to be sufficinet for the voltage and current at those points. 73, Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Using Heil ICM mic with K2
Barry McWilliams wrote: Brian - you asked about modifying the Heil ICM microphone for use with the K2 so it'scompatible with the Elecraft MH2 microphone. You need to make changes to the ICM plug. There are only 4 connections in the plug. You only need to change two of them. 1) The audio on pins 1 and 7 do NOT need to be changed. 2) The PTT needs to be moved from pin 5 -> to -> pin 2 and from pin ->6 to -> pin 8 Is the Elecraft MH2 actually the Heil iCM with these plug wiring differences? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
Vic, The K3 uses only a single wire to connect to the SO-239 jacks. The return path is through the chassis metal. If one adds a direct return path from the SO-239, that eliminates the potential for a haphazard path for the return current. While a chassis return may be good enough in one situation, let's suppose that the builder did not tighten the SO-239 mounting screws adequately, or the mounting hardware has begun to oxidize, then the return path becomes more 'iffy'. Attaching a return wire from a lug on the SO-239 to the board ground provides a fixed return path that is not dependent on the chassis. Note that the return currents for the two antenna connections can possibly interfere with each other if there is any small voltage differential on the chassis (there always is a differential, the question is just how small a differential is tolerable). 73, Don W3FPR Vic K2VCO wrote: I was told by Elecraft that one of the reasons for the poor isolation between the antenna ports is this: if you don't have the subreceiver installed, then the KAT3 subreceiver port is unterminated. So either install the KRX3 :-) or plug a 50-ohm resistor into the port -- it's on the top rear corner of the KAT3. I haven't tried this (I have a KRX3). I will add that I am not terribly happy with the isolation between the ports even with the subreceiver installed. Don Wilhelm wrote: As an alternative to coax, try using twisted pair - pull a couple pairs out of a short length of CAT-5 cable. One of the pair would be grounded at each end (will require adding a solder lug at the SO-239 jack). 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
I was told by Elecraft that one of the reasons for the poor isolation between the antenna ports is this: if you don't have the subreceiver installed, then the KAT3 subreceiver port is unterminated. So either install the KRX3 :-) or plug a 50-ohm resistor into the port -- it's on the top rear corner of the KAT3. I haven't tried this (I have a KRX3). I will add that I am not terribly happy with the isolation between the ports even with the subreceiver installed. Don Wilhelm wrote: As an alternative to coax, try using twisted pair - pull a couple pairs out of a short length of CAT-5 cable. One of the pair would be grounded at each end (will require adding a solder lug at the SO-239 jack). 73, Don W3FPR Stewart Baker wrote: David, A very good point. Although the space is rather restricted for RG58/U it should be possible to fit some of the smaller diameter cable such as that used to connect between VHF/UHF PCB's. I have some silver braided coax that would be suitable. It would have little adverse effect over such a small length, but might provide additional isolation. Food for thought... 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:14:03 -0400, David Robertson wrote: Stewart, Your posting is good information however one of the factors of isolation between ANT 1 and 2 can be how the pigtail leads from the 2 SO239 connectors and the antenna coupler board are dressed. It would seem easy to have these nonshielded wires crossing or near each other. The space seems too tight to use rg58/U cable. this could mean that depending how those wires were dressed the coupling would be different between all K3's. 73 Dave KD1NA From: Stewart Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KAT3 ATU and SPE Expert 1K-FA Amplifier To: Dave G4AON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" I made some measurements of the isolation between ANT 1 & ANT 2 on my K3. There is little difference between ATU & BYPASS. Unable to do 50MHz. 1.9MHz 58.1dB 3.7MHz 51.9dB 5.1MHz 49.2dB 7.0MHz 47.1dB 10MHz 44.7dB 14MHz 42.5dB 18MHz 40.8dB 21MHz 39.2dB 24MHz 37.1dB 28MHz 35.7dB So on 60m for 100W from ANT 1 there will be 1mW from ANT 2. 73 Stewart G3RXQ -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Help - K3 Hang up MCU LD
Shouldn't mess with things !! In preparation for my KRX3 which is on the way to me, I thought that I would be clever and load the latest Beta firmware. The MCU LD crashed, and now I cannot get my K3 to INIT using the POWER switch and NORM controls. I sits there with MCU LD message on the screen. HELP PLEASE !!. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
As an alternative to coax, try using twisted pair - pull a couple pairs out of a short length of CAT-5 cable. One of the pair would be grounded at each end (will require adding a solder lug at the SO-239 jack). 73, Don W3FPR Stewart Baker wrote: David, A very good point. Although the space is rather restricted for RG58/U it should be possible to fit some of the smaller diameter cable such as that used to connect between VHF/UHF PCB's. I have some silver braided coax that would be suitable. It would have little adverse effect over such a small length, but might provide additional isolation. Food for thought... 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:14:03 -0400, David Robertson wrote: Stewart, Your posting is good information however one of the factors of isolation between ANT 1 and 2 can be how the pigtail leads from the 2 SO239 connectors and the antenna coupler board are dressed. It would seem easy to have these nonshielded wires crossing or near each other. The space seems too tight to use rg58/U cable. this could mean that depending how those wires were dressed the coupling would be different between all K3's. 73 Dave KD1NA From: Stewart Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KAT3 ATU and SPE Expert 1K-FA Amplifier To: Dave G4AON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" I made some measurements of the isolation between ANT 1 & ANT 2 on my K3. There is little difference between ATU & BYPASS. Unable to do 50MHz. 1.9MHz 58.1dB 3.7MHz 51.9dB 5.1MHz 49.2dB 7.0MHz 47.1dB 10MHz 44.7dB 14MHz 42.5dB 18MHz 40.8dB 21MHz 39.2dB 24MHz 37.1dB 28MHz 35.7dB So on 60m for 100W from ANT 1 there will be 1mW from ANT 2. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.0/1555 - Release Date: 7/16/2008 6:43 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 - ALC/Pull up resistor mod
I see in the ALC mod rework that there is an optional modification for a true TTL output on band data. I assume that the negative-going ALC input will be the Elecraft shipped standard, so I'll modifiy my K3 (SN308) for this. Since most external devices require a band-data TTL output (as opposed to open drain/collector), I wonder what the official Elecraft band-data output will be from now on. I think it should be true TTL. However, if it isn't I'll continue to do this externally. If a true TTL output will become the shipped K3 standard, then I'll modify my K3 for this. Phil - AD5X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: RF Coupleing
David, A very good point. Although the space is rather restricted for RG58/U it should be possible to fit some of the smaller diameter cable such as that used to connect between VHF/UHF PCB's. I have some silver braided coax that would be suitable. It would have little adverse effect over such a small length, but might provide additional isolation. Food for thought... 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:14:03 -0400, David Robertson wrote: > Stewart, > Your posting is good information however one of the factors of isolation between ANT 1 > and 2 can be how the pigtail leads from the 2 > SO239 connectors and the antenna coupler board are dressed. It would seem easy to have > these nonshielded wires crossing or near each other. The space seems too tight to use > rg58/U cable. this could mean that depending how those wires were dressed the coupling > would be different between all K3's. > > 73 > > Dave KD1NA > > > From: Stewart Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KAT3 ATU and SPE Expert 1K-FA Amplifier > To: Dave G4AON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" > > I made some measurements of the isolation between ANT 1 & ANT 2 on > my K3. > > There is little difference between ATU & BYPASS. Unable to do > 50MHz. > > 1.9MHz 58.1dB > 3.7MHz 51.9dB > 5.1MHz 49.2dB > 7.0MHz 47.1dB > 10MHz 44.7dB > 14MHz 42.5dB > 18MHz 40.8dB > 21MHz 39.2dB > 24MHz 37.1dB > 28MHz 35.7dB > > So on 60m for 100W from ANT 1 there will be 1mW from ANT 2. > > 73 > Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 --> N1MM Logger
WinKey and the K3 can not share the same port. N1MM enforces the WinKey settings at 1200 bps (value set does not matter) DTR=ON RTS=OFF because the DTR=ON and RTS=OFF are required by the stand alone K1EL serial WinKey. You must not have any port checked for CW EXCEPT the port being used by WinKey. 73, ... Joe, W4TV > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 11:54 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 --> N1MM Logger > > > Hi all, > > I'm having trouble keying the K3 with N1MM Logger. I use > MicroHam CW Keyer. It works fine with AC Log, both rig > control and CW Keying. The rig control with N1MM Logger works > fine. But CW keying doesn't. I have attempted to configure CW > as follows: check the CW box, Com port 4800, N, 8, 2. DTR and > RTS to Always Off (thought that was the Elecraft preference), > and the Winkey box checked. > Sometimes this works, sometimes not. > > Every time I reenter N1MM, it has always been reset to DTR > Always On, RTS Alway Off, and Winkey unchecked. > > Would appreciate a note off line with anyone who has made it work. > > 73, > > John W9LHG > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 --> N1MM Logger
Hi all, I'm having trouble keying the K3 with N1MM Logger. I use MicroHam CW Keyer. It works fine with AC Log, both rig control and CW Keying. The rig control with N1MM Logger works fine. But CW keying doesn't. I have attempted to configure CW as follows: check the CW box, Com port 4800, N, 8, 2. DTR and RTS to Always Off (thought that was the Elecraft preference), and the Winkey box checked. Sometimes this works, sometimes not. Every time I reenter N1MM, it has always been reset to DTR Always On, RTS Alway Off, and Winkey unchecked. Would appreciate a note off line with anyone who has made it work. 73, John W9LHG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Slow beginning, but picking up speed
Well said. Two weeks to Katiegram?? 73, Jim - Original Message - From: "Dick Roth KA1OZ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Elecraft Reflector" Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 6:44 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Slow beginning, but picking up speed > Hi All-- > > The last you heard from me, I had just replaced the front panel to cure > a balky radio (wouldn't turn on). Well since replacing the front panel > this rig has proven to be very reliable...no unpleasant surprises. > > The whole package really seems to me to be a great value. I just love > working with this radio. The choice of control positions works well for > me. But what truly enhances the value of this purchase is the top notch > level of support. I don't know too many corporations where a customer > in trouble can spend 20 minutes talking with the guy who designed the > product. But let me tell you that from my perspective, Wayne really > does stand behind this radio. And the aid offered by the denizens of > this mailing list is priceless. There is always something to learn and > always generous folk to help convey the knowledge. > > Well that's enough of me. It's time to play! > > ttfn & > -- > 73, > Dick ka1oz > Middleborough, MA > > K3/100(Kit) SN 859 > Titan-DX > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net
I'm only around on Sunday afternoons to check in about once or twice a year, but when I am I do. I greatly appreciate what Kevin's done with the CW net. It takes consistency and commitment to be there week after week, through "thick and thin", and I know Kevin's had a lifetime's share of both. And Tom, N0SS, has been there to join in and relay check-ins every time I've had the opportunity to join the gang, although he's had his own serious distractions to deal with. The end result is something the rest of us can depend upon to be there: another reason to grab the paddles or key and get on the air. Tnx gentlemen. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I haven't been able to check in for quite some time - sometimes due to being away (without my KX-1 in tow) over the weekend, but mostly due to propagation (and, no doubt, the limitations of my stealth antenna - shhh, don't tell the Covenants Committee). This Sunday 20 was dead air at this QTH (7 PM EDT). I heard lots of signals on 40 but Kevin never heard me thru his QRN. At the end of the net I sent a plaintive "pse QSP," hoping one of the stations I heard so strongly would take the bait, but no one did. Sigh. Maybe when the sunspots return. 73 Ray K2HYD KX-1 #608 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net
I haven't been able to check in for quite some time - sometimes due to being away (without my KX-1 in tow) over the weekend, but mostly due to propagation (and, no doubt, the limitations of my stealth antenna - shhh, don't tell the Covenants Committee). This Sunday 20 was dead air at this QTH (7 PM EDT). I heard lots of signals on 40 but Kevin never heard me thru his QRN. At the end of the net I sent a plaintive "pse QSP," hoping one of the stations I heard so strongly would take the bait, but no one did. Sigh. Maybe when the sunspots return. 73 Ray K2HYD KX-1 #608 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Quiet Phone
BTW, I'm not locked down to the Quiet Phones. If someone thinks the regular Proset phones are a better value, I'm completely open to suggestions. These will be used exclusively in my shack which is pretty quiet to begin with. Thanks, - Bill KB1PXD wrote: > > I'm thinking about swinging by HRO this afternoon to grab the Heil > Proset Quiet Phone for my K3. Assuming that I want to use the back > connectors for a cleaner installation, what additional adapters/cables > will I need to get this working? I'd prefer not to use VOX unless someone > can convince me otherwise. (I'm never used VOX before so I guess > I'm a little gun shy) Also, what element would you recommend? I'm > pretty much an exclusive DX operator. > > Thanks, > - Bill > kb1pxd > -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Heil-Proset-Quiet-Phone-tp530729p530734.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Heil Proset Quiet Phone
I'm thinking about swinging by HRO this afternoon to grab the Heil Proset Quiet Phone for my K3. Assuming that I want to use the back connectors for a cleaner installation, what additional adapters/cables will I need to get this working? I'd prefer not to use VOX unless someone can convince me otherwise. (I'm never used VOX before so I guess I'm a little gun shy) Also, what element would you recommend? I'm pretty much an exclusive DX operator. Thanks, - Bill kb1pxd -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Heil-Proset-Quiet-Phone-tp530729p530729.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
