Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets

2008-08-21 Thread Jim Wiley
Aren't the sockets always straight, with the pins (the part that 
attaches to the PCB) either right angle or straight?  check pages 
1328-1329 of the Mouser Catalog 634 (May-July 2008) for a selection of 
3M connectors that will probably fill the bill. 



- Jim,  KL7CC





Kevin Rock wrote:

I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for something I know exists.  I 
have seen examples in both Elecraft kits and in other kits I have built.  Now I want to 
find these parts for a project I am designing.  I want a set of 0.1 right angle 
header and sockets.  I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find the matching 
sockets.  Where do I find right angle sockets to mate with the 0.1 header pins?  I 
don't really want to change my design to use straight pins and sockets but may have to if 
I cannot find what I want.  Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts I 
know exist?  I am probably not calling them the right thing but have tried a number of 
different names over the last four hours.  Any assistance would be appreciated.
   Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: E 00039?

2008-08-21 Thread dj7mgq

result, I received an error message -- E 00039 ERR VC4 -- and in
consulting the revised manual (version D1) found only references to
having the second receiver installed and to try NOT INST as a means of
correcting this.


Are you really sure that the synthesizer and XCO are installed correctly?

In Manuals B1, C1 and D1 it says:
===
VCO calibration error. VFO A will show error
data, e.g. E 00039; report this value to
Elecraft customer support.
---
Verify that the oscillator can on the
KREF3 is fully plugged in and is not in
backwards. Make sure all internal cables
are plugged in, specifically the cables
between the KREF3 and KSYN3 modules
(synthesizers).
.. etc etc etc ..
===

vy 73 de toby

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: E 00039?

2008-08-21 Thread John Reiser

Hi,

Make sure that the KSYN3 and XREF3 boards are not shorting  to the front 
panel shield.  The clearance is very close, and sometimes the leads on the 
undersides of the boards can be a bit too long. You might consider putting a 
small washer under the screw that holds them to add a little more space. 
Then re-do the VCO CAL.


Hope this helps.

73,  John, W2GW


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: jmalloy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: ELECRAFT@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 2:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: E 00039?



result, I received an error message -- E 00039 ERR VC4 -- and in
consulting the revised manual (version D1) found only references to
having the second receiver installed and to try NOT INST as a means of
correcting this.


Are you really sure that the synthesizer and XCO are installed correctly?

In Manuals B1, C1 and D1 it says:
===
VCO calibration error. VFO A will show error
data, e.g. E 00039; report this value to
Elecraft customer support.
---
Verify that the oscillator can on the
KREF3 is fully plugged in and is not in
backwards. Make sure all internal cables
are plugged in, specifically the cables
between the KREF3 and KSYN3 modules
(synthesizers).
.. etc etc etc ..
===

vy 73 de toby

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Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets

2008-08-21 Thread geoff allsup

I've used SAMTEC straight sockets; assume they have right-angle too.

73,
geoff - W1OH

Kevin Rock wrote:

I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for something I know exists.  I 
have seen examples in both Elecraft kits and in other kits I have built.  Now I want to 
find these parts for a project I am designing.  I want a set of 0.1 right angle 
header and sockets.  I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find the matching 
sockets.  Where do I find right angle sockets to mate with the 0.1 header pins?  I 
don't really want to change my design to use straight pins and sockets but may have to if 
I cannot find what I want.  Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts I 
know exist?  I am probably not calling them the right thing but have tried a number of 
different names over the last four hours.  Any assistance would be appreciated.
   Kevin.  KD5ONS

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--
*
Geoff Allsup, W1OH [EMAIL PROTECTED]  or  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Research Engineer  Upper Ocean Processes Group
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution   Woods Hole, MA, USA
*

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[Elecraft] Balanced Antenna Tuner Raised Radials

2008-08-21 Thread Julius Fazekas
I think it was noted in this month's RadCom. PA0FRI has an interesting design 
called a S-Match that looks easy to build and possibly easy to motorize as 
well. 

http://www.pa0fri.geerligs.com/

Another article that is well worth reading and may apply to some questions 
raised in this thread is by Rudy Severns, N6LF. It brings some interesting test 
data that suggests that longer may not be better in some instances. Definite 
food for thought and interesting reading.

http://www.antennasbyn6lf.com/2008/08/hf-vertical-gro.html



Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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[Elecraft] KRX3 Assembly

2008-08-21 Thread Jim Denneny
Ordered KRX3 in June 2007.  Rcvd K3 s/n 453 Feb 08.  Rcvd KRX3 kit June 19. 
Completed KRX3 assy yesterday June 20.

Congrats to Elecraft for an excellent assembly manual.  I only wish my 
fingers were smaller to handle the 4-40 hardware in tight places but, it got 
done.

I had one scare when I fired it up after doing the startup routine.  I 
enabled sub rx but got error mesage attempting VCO CAL in sub mode.  I 
discovered I needed to update DSP2 firmware to V1.88 first.  After I did 
that, the VCO CAL in sub and filter setup went smooth.

Thanks again Elecraft

Jim 
K7EG 
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[Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Jim Denneny
I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance.  It 
involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.

I have never attempted as delicate a procedure as this.  I am soliciting 
suggestions on how to do this without damaging the rf board.

Jim
K7EG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Lyle Johnson

I have never attempted as delicate a procedure as this.  I am soliciting 
suggestions on how to do this without damaging the rf board.


I always use two (2) small temp-controlled soldering irons (Hakko 936). 
 The idea is to heat both ends simultaneously to melt the solder 
without dwelling too long on the board.  The parts likely have a small 
amount of adhesive under them so once the solder is melted, I push one 
end with a soldering iron while holding the other end still.  This 
breaks the part free from the adhesive.


Be certain the soldering irons aren't set too hot. 650 F is about right, 
700F is probably OK, higher is a Bad Idea.  There is little thermal mass 
here.  The worst problem will be heat flow from the grounded end of one 
of the two resistors.


Or, you may have an iron with a wide enough tip to heat both ends of the 
part - that will work too, just keep the temperature under control :-)


I haven't had breakfast yet so I'm not thinking clearly; the RF board 
you damage maybe your own; YMMV, ...


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Jack Smith

Jim

A Hakko tweezer handpiece makes removing surface mount parts easy, but 
it's a pricey solution for just a couple parts.


Depending on the tools you have and the size of the part, you might 
consider using a pair of small cutters to snip  the resistors in half 
before removing it. Then you can use a standard soldering iron and 
solder wick to clean the pads up. You're not trying to salvage the part, 
of course.


Surface mount  resistors are made with a ceramic substrate so they 
shatter easily. That's what you want to do--shatter the ceramic so that 
you can work on each end individually.


The practicality of this approach depends on the part size, how much 
free room you have to access it and the size of your cutters. It works 
well for 1206 parts and OK for 805 size resistors, but I have not tried 
it with smaller devices. If there's a risk of damaging other components 
or a PCB  trace, of course, don't use this approach.



Jack


Jim Denneny wrote:

I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance.  It 
involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.

I have never attempted as delicate a procedure as this.  I am soliciting 
suggestions on how to do this without damaging the rf board.

Jim
K7EG
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Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets

2008-08-21 Thread Joe Planisky

Kevin,

Have you tried searching on Octopart ( http://octopart.com )?  It's an  
electronic parts search engine.


73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Aug 20, 2008, at 10:34 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:

I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for  
something I know exists.  I have seen examples in both Elecraft kits  
and in other kits I have built.  Now I want to find these parts for  
a project I am designing.  I want a set of 0.1 right angle header  
and sockets.  I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find the  
matching sockets.  Where do I find right angle sockets to mate with  
the 0.1 header pins?  I don't really want to change my design to  
use straight pins and sockets but may have to if I cannot find what  
I want.  Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts I  
know exist?  I am probably not calling them the right thing but have  
tried a number of different names over the last four hours.  Any  
assistance would be appreciated.

  Kevin.  KD5ONS

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Configuration Cookbook?

2008-08-21 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
New video:
The making of...  K3 #1255

A 7 minute impression of building a K3.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD8QNVkIirc

73,
Arie PA3A

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[Elecraft] K3 video

2008-08-21 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
Sorry, right subject now...

New video:
The making of...  K3 #1255

A 7 minute impression of building a K3.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD8QNVkIirc

73,
Arie PA3A

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: E 00039?

2008-08-21 Thread jmalloy

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

result, I received an error message -- E 00039 ERR VC4 -- and in
consulting the revised manual (version D1) found only references to
having the second receiver installed and to try NOT INST as a means of
correcting this.


Are you really sure that the synthesizer and XCO are installed correctly?

In Manuals B1, C1 and D1 it says:
===
VCO calibration error. VFO A will show error
data, e.g. E 00039; report this value to
Elecraft customer support.
---
Verify that the oscillator can on the
KREF3 is fully plugged in and is not in
backwards. Make sure all internal cables
are plugged in, specifically the cables
between the KREF3 and KSYN3 modules
(synthesizers).
.. etc etc etc ..
===

vy 73 de toby



Thanks, Toby, but the K3 has been operating since March just fine and it 
even took a trip to Gary Surrency for an unrelated problem.  However, 
the latest is that the error disappeared and now I find that the tx RF 
meter doesn't work although is puts out nominal power.


Yikes, I'm a bit confused...

73,

Joe, W2RBA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: E 00039?

2008-08-21 Thread jmalloy

John Reiser wrote:

Hi,

Make sure that the KSYN3 and XREF3 boards are not shorting  to the front 
panel shield.  The clearance is very close, and sometimes the leads on 
the undersides of the boards can be a bit too long. You might consider 
putting a small washer under the screw that holds them to add a little 
more space. Then re-do the VCO CAL.


Thanks John, but as I told Toby, it has been working since March just 
fine; moreover, the problem went away for now and now I find that the 
power output indication won't change despite the fact that power 
actually does change according to the Bird wattmeter.  Oy!


73,

Joe, W2RBA

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Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets

2008-08-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Does anyone know if there is a site that will
find SMD equivalents to standard parts?
I'm looking for an SMD equivalent to the
2N5109 transistor (if there is one).
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Planisky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: List Discussion Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets


 Kevin,

 Have you tried searching on Octopart ( http://octopart.com )?  It's
an
 electronic parts search engine.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP

 On Aug 20, 2008, at 10:34 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:

  I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for
  something I know exists.  I have seen examples in both Elecraft
kits
  and in other kits I have built.  Now I want to find these parts
for
  a project I am designing.  I want a set of 0.1 right angle header
  and sockets.  I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find
the
  matching sockets.  Where do I find right angle sockets to mate
with
  the 0.1 header pins?  I don't really want to change my design to
  use straight pins and sockets but may have to if I cannot find
what
  I want.  Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts
I
  know exist?  I am probably not calling them the right thing but
have
  tried a number of different names over the last four hours.  Any
  assistance would be appreciated.
Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Mike S

At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX 
performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small, 
surface-mount resistors.


Chip-quick ( 
http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is great 
for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which you 
use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device 
removal easy. It doesn't take much.


Without a rework station, it's about the only thing you can use for 
larger devices.


If you were experienced in working with SMT, then it might be overkill 
for replacing just a resistor. But even if you've done SMT before, 
there's still the danger of lifting a pad when using just a soldering 
iron.


Good stuff if you want to do it yourself with minimal risk to an 
expensive board.


For soldering the new component, I just make sure the pads are lightly 
tinned, hold the component in place with a toothpick, and lightly touch 
each joint with the iron.  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Bill W4ZV



James Denneny wrote:
 
 I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance. 
 It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
 

This is about the simplest SMD work one can do, but I would *strongly*
recommend you find a scrap SMD board and practice removing and soldering a
few resistors first.  Almost any scrap board (like an old modem) should have
some resistors.  I've not had any problems removing components like Rs and
Cs using a single Circuit Specialists clone of the Hakko 936 with a 1.6mm
chisel tip at 700 degrees.  I found the resistors easily slide off after
alternately heating each side, but you definitely should practice first.

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740658.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

What is this mod?

regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W4ZV [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod


|
|
|
| James Denneny wrote:
| 
|  I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX 
performance.
|  It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
| 
|
| This is about the simplest SMD work one can do, but I would *strongly*
| recommend you find a scrap SMD board and practice removing and soldering 
a
| few resistors first.  Almost any scrap board (like an old modem) should 
have
| some resistors.  I've not had any problems removing components like Rs 
and
| Cs using a single Circuit Specialists clone of the Hakko 936 with a 
1.6mm
| chisel tip at 700 degrees.  I found the resistors easily slide off after
| alternately heating each side, but you definitely should practice first.
|
| -- 
| View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740658.html
| Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
|
| ___
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|
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
| Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1625 - Release Date: 
21/08/2008 06:04
|
|
| 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Tom AK2B



At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX 
performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small, 
surface-mount resistors.

Chip-quick ( 
http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is great 
for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which you 
use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device 
removal easy. It doesn't take much.

Although I am a big fan of ChipQuik you should try it on an old PC board
before you try it on something that might break your heart if you fail.
ChipQuik can send a part flying (along with a trail of molten ChipQuik) if
the part has been tacked down with an adhesive and requires a little
pressure. Once you get the hang of it, on a multipin IC, it can be a life
saver. I don't think I would use it on a resistor or cap though. I would go
with the single iron back and forth or the two iron method.

Tom, AK2B
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740797.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
There's one easy trick I learned a while back.
Actually add solder to each end of the R or C
to be removed.  This creates a larger thermal
mass that doesn't cool and harden as quickly,
and gives you time to get the other end melted
too.  Then the part slides right off.

As has been recommended before, practice first
on some junk pc board with SMD parts on it.
Really easy technique.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG



- Original Message - 
From: Tom AK2B [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod





 At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
 I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
 performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small,
 surface-mount resistors.

 Chip-quick (
 http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is
great
 for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which
you
 use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device
 removal easy. It doesn't take much.

 Although I am a big fan of ChipQuik you should try it on an old PC
board
 before you try it on something that might break your heart if you
fail.
 ChipQuik can send a part flying (along with a trail of molten
ChipQuik) if
 the part has been tacked down with an adhesive and requires a little
 pressure. Once you get the hang of it, on a multipin IC, it can be a
life
 saver. I don't think I would use it on a resistor or cap though. I
would go
 with the single iron back and forth or the two iron method.

 Tom, AK2B
 -- 
 View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740797.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K2/100 LOCKUP THOUGHTS?

2008-08-21 Thread John Stasiw
My fully loaded K2/100 locked up on power-up last night. I wonder if it is an 
indication of potential problems or a not unexpected random event.

All front panel controls  except power level were inoperative, the display 
showed the last freq. and mode of operation. Power supply off and on did not 
reset any functions.
Rotation of the power level control gave an power level display.

However, operating the dot/PTT function reset all functions and normal control 
was re-established.

Any thoughts out there??

John Stasiw
K2 #5384

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Got My Katie-gram today and can not afford it now.

2008-08-21 Thread Craig KA0CT


Gone!
-- 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread N2TK
 Should I expect any negative impacts if I used regular resistors in place
of SM resistors for this mod?

N2TK, Tony


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 12:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod




James Denneny wrote:
 
 I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance. 
 It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
 

This is about the simplest SMD work one can do, but I would *strongly*
recommend you find a scrap SMD board and practice removing and soldering a
few resistors first.  Almost any scrap board (like an old modem) should have
some resistors.  I've not had any problems removing components like Rs and
Cs using a single Circuit Specialists clone of the Hakko 936 with a 1.6mm
chisel tip at 700 degrees.  I found the resistors easily slide off after
alternately heating each side, but you definitely should practice first.

-- 
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http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740658.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 LOCKUP THOUGHTS?

2008-08-21 Thread Jim Wiley
Could have been a cosmic ray zap.  This is not a joke.  Cosmic rays can 
pass through a memory chip, altering its contents, and thereby what 
functions are affected.  Happens in computers all the time.   Usually a 
power off-on cycle will clear the problem.  Unless it starts to appear 
with regularity, I could dismiss this as a random event, and not worry 
about it.



- Jim, KL7CC



John Stasiw wrote:

My fully loaded K2/100 locked up on power-up last night. I wonder if it is an 
indication of potential problems or a not unexpected random event.

All front panel controls  except power level were inoperative, the display 
showed the last freq. and mode of operation. Power supply off and on did not 
reset any functions.
Rotation of the power level control gave an power level display.

However, operating the dot/PTT function reset all functions and normal control 
was re-established.

Any thoughts out there??

John Stasiw
K2 #5384

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] noise blanker

2008-08-21 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 11:55:54 +0200, Petr Ourednik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi,


My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres) 
so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB !


Ouch!

Solution 1:

Take one pickup truck and tie the back bumper to the fence with an insulated
rope.  Jump in the cab and pull the fence as far as you can away from your QTH
and destroy the charger.

Solution 2.

Help your neighbor find a fence charger that is not so noisy.

Solution 3.

Move to another location.

All the above is tongue in cheek.

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] re ON-OFF on K3

2008-08-21 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 09:02:07 -0400, Eric Scace K3NA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   The need to manually press the power button to turn on the radio is a 
problem in remote-controlled stations.  If power fails, one must visit 
the site to power up the radios.

[snip]

The solution is to put the rig(s) on battery power when the mains power fails.

Here in TX we have many power failures in the spring.  To prevent losing power
to the rigs at my QTH I automatically switch them the battery power when the
mains fail.Look at the west mountain site:

http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm for RigRunner information and
then at http://www.westmountainradio.com/order_us48a.htm for information about
PowerGate.

73,

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [K3] [Elecraft] noise blanker

2008-08-21 Thread ab2tc

Hi,

Just for the record, my standard setting is:

DSP t2-5
IF MED3

This is really effective for my power line noise. There are cases where the
noise starts to come back when there are strong (SSB) signals in the
passband but normally it remains blanked even then. 

Knut - AB2TC



Petr Ourednik-2 wrote:
 
 Hi,
 
 according to preview discussion on noise blanker of K3 I decided to 
 write few words also as I have lot of experiences with that I guess...
 My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres) 
 so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB !
 
 A few points as the results of my tests and final settings
 which I am using on my K3 untill now.
 
 1. Only the combination of the dsp and IF is able to kill the el.fence
 pulses
 2. dsp/t1-7 does not help in my case with any combination of IF values
 3. IF NAR/MED/WID does not help if values are lower than 4...
 4. dsp/t2-5,6,7 or t3-5,6,7 values are really agressive and it
 suppressing
 the pulses effectively if its in combination with IF setting MED or WID
 with
 higher than 4 values.
 
 snip
 


-
AB2TC - Knut
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 video

2008-08-21 Thread Jon Kåre Hellan

Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

Sorry, right subject now...

New video:
The making of...  K3 #1255

A 7 minute impression of building a K3.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD8QNVkIirc


Quite a surprise to hear myself calling cq there at the end.

Jon LA4RT
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[Elecraft] OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread Ken Kopp

Electric fence chargers don't (normally) cause noise.
Its the installation of the wires they feed that causes
noise.

There are two kinds of chargers ... one generates a
quick pulse ... a pop ... and the other generates a
longer burst of energy and makes a bzzzt sound.
The later is often called a weed burner.  It's intent
is to burn away any weed that grows into contact with 
the fence.  

I have had good luck with asking / offering the owner 
if I can fix the fence, with an emphasis on it will work
better when I'm through. 

They're almost always put up poorly, with no knowledge 
of how to do the job correctly.  Joints are made by simply

making two loops together like one would link two index
fingers together.  These need to be twisted ... tightly.
Ditto for the tie-wires used to fasten wire to insulators.

Sometimes there are -NO- insulators used on wood fence
posts, and I have found the charged wire stapled to the 
post.  If the staple isn't tight, a tiny arc will result.  This is

one common source of power line noise on power line
distribution system pole ground wires, BTW.  It's been known 
to set poles ablaze. There are insulated gate hooks that are 
fine sources of noise.  


Look at an electric fence as an antenna and construct it
in the same way.  It will be much more likely to be quiet.

Again, the noise isn't from the charger ... it's generated
along the wire.  Carrying an AM radio along the fence may
be helpful  and is useful in illustrating to the fence owner what
you're talking about.  He/she may already be aware of the
noise and not know the source. (:-))

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] noise blanker

2008-08-21 Thread Jim Wiley

Solution 4:

Remind the neighbor that interference from an electric fence is not 
permitted.  Even though such interference falls under the umbrella of 
incidental radiation, it still must not interfere with the operation 
of a licensed radio station.  There are some fairly recent (within the 
past 5 years or so) cases where the FCC got involved in this type of 
problem, and some substantial fines were assessed.   A search of QST 
archives should turn up some of Riley's correspondence on these issues. 



Attempting to work out the issues with the neighbor may be useful, as 
electric fences are not supposed to radiate, and there may be repair 
actions that can substantially reduce or eliminate the problem.   
However, I  advise  anyone with this sort of problem that the only 
assistance you should provide is in identification of the noise source, 
and monitoring to verify that repairs have been effective. 



Do not under any circumstances attempt to repair the equipment 
yourself!  Not only can such equipment generate hazardous voltages,  if 
you make a repair, successful or not,  you could find yourself liable 
for damages should anyone subsequently be injured by this same system.  
You could also find yourself sued for the cost of later repair or 
replacement under the assumption that since you are not a professional 
service person for the device, whatever you did caused any subsequent 
problems. 



- Jim, KL7CC
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread Greg - AB7R
I gotta chime in here.  I have an electric fence.  It is put up correctly, and 
it 
does pop on the radio.  It is nice though that the K3 noise blanker either 
eliminates it or at least reduces it to a manageable level...usually depends on 
the 
band.


-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Aug 21 14:19 , Ken Kopp  sent:

Electric fence chargers don't (normally) cause noise.
Its the installation of the wires they feed that causes
noise.

There are two kinds of chargers ... one generates a
quick pulse ... a pop ... and the other generates a
longer burst of energy and makes a bzzzt sound.
The later is often called a weed burner.  It's intent
is to burn away any weed that grows into contact with 
the fence.  

I have had good luck with asking / offering the owner 
if I can fix the fence, with an emphasis on it will work
better when I'm through. 

They're almost always put up poorly, with no knowledge 
of how to do the job correctly.  Joints are made by simply
making two loops together like one would link two index
fingers together.  These need to be twisted ... tightly.
Ditto for the tie-wires used to fasten wire to insulators.

Sometimes there are -NO- insulators used on wood fence
posts, and I have found the charged wire stapled to the 
post.  If the staple isn't tight, a tiny arc will result.  This is
one common source of power line noise on power line
distribution system pole ground wires, BTW.  It's been known 
to set poles ablaze. There are insulated gate hooks that are 
fine sources of noise.  

Look at an electric fence as an antenna and construct it
in the same way.  It will be much more likely to be quiet.

Again, the noise isn't from the charger ... it's generated
along the wire.  Carrying an AM radio along the fence may
be helpful  and is useful in illustrating to the fence owner what
you're talking about.  He/she may already be aware of the
noise and not know the source. (:-))

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread Ken Kopp
Hi Greg,

I have three within a block of me that I've fixed and aren't
a problem ... BUT none on my own property. (:-))  Isn't this 
a form of self-inflicted injury?  

I've heard that most critters ... once bit ... never approach 
the fence again.  Maybe that would work in your case, or 
maybe intermittent operation would fool 'em.

73! Ken
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[Elecraft] Off Topic - Stolen Scout Radio Badge Collection

2008-08-21 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Sorry for this off-topic post and a cross-post at that, but read on  
and you'll see why.


Please could you pass this on to whoever you think fit and publish as  
much as possible, this is a forward from MMØGSS ([EMAIL PROTECTED] 
) and I have his permission to pass this on.


A HAM I know, Jochen DK8ZM, is a keen collector of Scout Radio badges  
and had possibly the largest collection anywhere until they were  
unfortunately recently stolen (approx 300 rare badges). Anyone who  
collects radio ephemera will understand the upset this will have  
caused. I would like to politely request everyone to keep an eye out  
and if you hear of any unusual or large numbers of JOTA or radio  
scouting badges appearing then please do let him know (or me and I'll  
pass the message on).


Further to that mail, he sent:
I don't know Jochen well but I was lucky enough to operate from GB100J  
and worked with him there, he's a really nice guy and I know the  
collection was his pride and joy and holds many Scouting and radio  
memories for him so the further we can publicise this the better.  
There are better pictures of the individual badges here: http://www.radio-scouting.de/badges/


I reckon we have the communucations these days to tell the radio and  
scouting world in a very short time so the more people who know the  
better. He's not looking to catch the thief, in typical fashion he  
would just like the collection back. Fingers crossed for a favourable  
outcome.


73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, FISTS #12575
David Ferrington ASL - 2nd Bracknell Scout Group
--
If you must play, decide on three things at the start: the rules of the
game, the stakes, and the quitting time. -Chinese Proverb

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[Elecraft] Off Topic - Stolen Scout Radio Badge Collection - email address correction

2008-08-21 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

And even more sorry that I got the wrong email address in this,
MM0GSS is [EMAIL PROTECTED] !

Sorry for this off-topic post and a cross-post at that, but read on  
and you'll see why.


Please could you pass this on to whoever you think fit and publish as  
much as possible, this is a forward from MMØGSS ([EMAIL PROTECTED] 
) and I have his permission to pass this on.


A HAM I know, Jochen DK8ZM, is a keen collector of Scout Radio badges  
and had possibly the largest collection anywhere until they were  
unfortunately recently stolen (approx 300 rare badges). Anyone who  
collects radio ephemera will understand the upset this will have  
caused. I would like to politely request everyone to keep an eye out  
and if you hear of any unusual or large numbers of JOTA or radio  
scouting badges appearing then please do let him know (or me and I'll  
pass the message on).


Further to that mail, he sent:
I don't know Jochen well but I was lucky enough to operate from GB100J  
and worked with him there, he's a really nice guy and I know the  
collection was his pride and joy and holds many Scouting and radio  
memories for him so the further we can publicise this the better.  
There are better pictures of the individual badges here: http://www.radio-scouting.de/badges/


I reckon we have the communucations these days to tell the radio and  
scouting world in a very short time so the more people who know the  
better. He's not looking to catch the thief, in typical fashion he  
would just like the collection back. Fingers crossed for a favourable  
outcome.


73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, FISTS #12575
David Ferrington ASL - 2nd Bracknell Scout Group
--
If you must play, decide on three things at the start: the rules of the
game, the stakes, and the quitting time. -Chinese Proverb

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[Elecraft] Fw: K3/100 is now on e-bay @ $2027

2008-08-21 Thread Ken Kopp

Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Don Rasmussen
Tony,

I have the LP-Pan with recommended Creative Labs E-MU
0202 and find this to be optimal, I mean no reason to
make a mod of any type to K3. If someone told you that
this must be done, I'd want to see why with my own
eyes before doing this job. 

IMO (in my opinion) you don't work with SMD on K3,
they fly around like little fleas even if you use a
pair of 15w irons to remove them. They are just that
small. But you can get them off without any major
damage, find them, and carefully replace them - *when
necessary*. YMMV... 

de wb8yqj

Previous message: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod 
Next message: [Elecraft] K2/100 LOCKUP THOUGHTS? 


 Should I expect any negative impacts if I used
regular resistors in place
of SM resistors for this mod?

N2TK, Tony


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[Elecraft] K3 #1394 Err TxG Msg

2008-08-21 Thread Guy Hamblen
Getting this message on some bands during calibration.  Ok.here's my facts.


 

1)   Filter bandwidth set for 2.7 FL1 and 1.0 FL2.  No other filters.

2)   FL1 offset set to -.82.  Minus is showing on LCD screen.

3)   Receive filter FL1 set to ON for all SSB and FL2 to ON for CW.  All
other FL3-5 set to OFF.

4)   Xmit Filter set to FL1

5)   Synthesizer calibrated per instructions

6)   Rig power set to 5w on 20m.  From TUNE, wattmeter = 5w also.

 

So far, by the book.  But Transmitter Gain calibration yields the following:

 

1)   160m = 5.0w and No error msg

2)   80m = 5.0w and No error msg

3)   60m = 5.0w and No error msg

4)   40m = 2.5w and Err TxG msg

5)   30m = 1.3w and Err Txg msg

6)   20m = 5.0w and Err Txg msg

7)   17m = 0.1w and Err Txg msg

8)   15m = 1.0w and Err Txg msg

9)   12m = 0.0w and Err Txg msg

10)   10m = 5.0w and No error msg.

 

FL1 and FL2 are installed in their correct board locations.  I have read
thru past dialogue on this issue but can't find anything relevant given my
facts.  No KPA installed but the KPAIO3 interface module installed because
rig came without the jumper block.  However PAio is set to ON for the KPA3
(was PAio NOR).

 

Can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.  Your help is appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance, Guy N7UN

 

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] noise blanker

2008-08-21 Thread Bill Johnson
I have found that if there are weeds growing near any of the wires, the
noise will arc.  I suggested to my neighbor that I could hear his fence and
what caused the issue.  He took care of it... for awhile Maybe the old
pony will pass in the next couple of years and that will be the end of it.
I use the DSP with some limited effect because it creates more artifacts
than it cures with the fence noise.  Oh, my TS-2000 has the same issue...
worse, actually.

I like solution 1!  Just if I could pull it off without the horse noticing
me!


72,

Bill 

K9YEQ
K2 #35, K2 # 5279, KX1 #35, Mini Modules, etc.  




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Childers, N5GE
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 3:42 PM
To: Petr Ourednik
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] noise blanker

On Wed, 20 Aug 2008 11:55:54 +0200, Petr Ourednik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

Hi,


My antennas are really close to electric fence (just few metres) 
so the pulses on all bands with K3 are over S9+20dB !


Ouch!

Solution 1:

Take one pickup truck and tie the back bumper to the fence with an insulated
rope.  Jump in the cab and pull the fence as far as you can away from your
QTH
and destroy the charger.

Solution 2.

Help your neighbor find a fence charger that is not so noisy.

Solution 3.

Move to another location.

All the above is tongue in cheek.

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[Elecraft] OT: Electric fence fix

2008-08-21 Thread Ken Kopp

Perhaps a midnight excursion to install an invisible ground
would do the trick.  Just remember to hook up the ground end
FIRST!

Once bit, many critters never approach an electric fence again.

73!  Ken Kopp - K0PP
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Jim Cox
It sounds like Tony should leave the K3 as is.   Dont screw it up unless 
your qualified to make the mods.   Jim K4JAF



- Original Message - 
From: Don Rasmussen [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 7:06 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod



Tony,

I have the LP-Pan with recommended Creative Labs E-MU
0202 and find this to be optimal, I mean no reason to
make a mod of any type to K3. If someone told you that
this must be done, I'd want to see why with my own
eyes before doing this job.

IMO (in my opinion) you don't work with SMD on K3,
they fly around like little fleas even if you use a
pair of 15w irons to remove them. They are just that
small. But you can get them off without any major
damage, find them, and carefully replace them - *when
necessary*. YMMV...

de wb8yqj

Previous message: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod
Next message: [Elecraft] K2/100 LOCKUP THOUGHTS?


Should I expect any negative impacts if I used
regular resistors in place
of SM resistors for this mod?

N2TK, Tony


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[Elecraft] KX1

2008-08-21 Thread B. G.
Just got my KX1 the other day and am getting ready to build.  I previously 
built a K1 a few years ago and it works perfectly.

Haven't been on this Elecraft reflector in a long time and need a bit of 
help/advice.

A few questions:

1. Are  there any archived threads about the KX1, and if so, how do I get there?

2. I have the 80-30 option as well as the internal ATU.

3. I made all my own toroids for my K1, but at my age now, 68, I got my toroids 
from Mychael this time.

4. Is communication possible via E mail with other KX1 owners?

Thanks  73

Bob, W9EWW
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread Tom W8JI

Again, the noise isn't from the charger ... it's generated
along the wire.  Carrying an AM radio along the fence may
be helpful  and is useful in illustrating to the fence 
owner what

you're talking about.  He/she may already be aware of the
noise and not know the source. (:-))


While it is true most problems seem to be caused by bad 
connections in the fence, the most severe problem I had with 
an electric fence was caused by a charger! The charger was 
sent back and the replacement charger produced exactly the 
same problem. I put RF chokes on it, ferrite beads, you name 
it.


My neighbor switched to a different brand and the problem 
vanished.


I've generally had varying success with an AM broadcast 
radio, but a VHF aircraft radio always lets me walk right up 
to the bad area.


73 Tom




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RE: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've generally had varying success with an AM broadcast 
radio, but a VHF aircraft radio always lets me walk right up 
to the bad area.

73 Tom

-

Many Hams today don't realize that the VHF aircraft band is AM, not FM such
as most hand-held Ham VHF radios use. Of course, FM is inherently noise
suppressing, ignoring all amplitude modulation. That makes most Ham
hand-helds useless for this purpose. However, some do receive the 120 MHz
aircraft band with an AM detector. My Icom W32A is one of those. It is
excellent for chasing noise, as Tom notes. The noise tends to be weaker and
not propagate so easily at 120 MHz, so the source is usually much more
clearly defined as you wander around with the radio in hand.

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Tuners

2008-08-21 Thread Stephen Brandt
Me thinks that Mike needs a rotor that will rotate a house or condo

73,

Steve N7VS Portland, Oregon


 I am working on rotating the property for directional control(!!)



 Monty,

 Your property is rotating; is us the rest of us blokes who won't sit still
 while you are getting around to us.

 Mike Scott

 AE6WA Tarzana, CA

 K3/100 SN508



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Re: [Elecraft] Even more OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread Bill W5WVO
Ken Kopp wrote:

 I've heard that most critters ... once bit ... never approach
 the fence again.  Maybe that would work in your case, or
 maybe intermittent operation would fool 'em.

A few years ago I was living down in Albuquerque in the North
Valley area. This is horse country, and my property adjoined a
small rancho where riding horses were stabled. One of the horses
struck up a friendship with my border collie Meg, and would come
over to the fence to hang out with her.

One day I decided to go out and give him an apple, to see if I
could make friends with him, too. I knew there was an electric
fence wire there, but when I touched it gingerly, nothing
happened. I assumed it was dead and had been abandoned, like so
many other old electric fences I had seen as a kid growing up in
the countryside of upstate New York.

Anyway, I had to reach my arm well through the fence to reach the
horse. He liked the apple and whickered softly, coming a little
closer. I got a left-handed grip on the wire fencing to steady
myself and reached out to pet him on his nose with the other.
ZAAAPPP!!! Both the horse and I jumped backwards reflexively. I
yelped, he whinnied. What had happened?

The fence wasn't dead; in fact, it was thoroughly functional. I
felt nothing when touching it because I was wearing rubber-soled
sneakers; the horse, however, was wearing iron horseshoes. The
current went from the wire through my left arm, my chest, and my
right arm to the horse's nose, down through the horse to his
horseshoes and into the damp ground.

He never came around again to hang out with Meg. I felt awful
about it, but there was not much I could do. :-(  He had learned
his lesson, to my sorrow, and I had learned mine: Don't ever
assume an electric fence is dead!

This fence, BTW, produced no noise on 6 meters that I could
detect.

Bill W5WVO

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fence fix

2008-08-21 Thread Joe Planisky
H.  So let's make a fence charger that doesn't turn on the high  
voltage until it senses something touching the fence.


73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Aug 21, 2008, at 5:41 PM, Ken Kopp wrote:



Once bit, many critters never approach an electric fence again.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1

2008-08-21 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU

Bob,
It only seems like the Elecraft list is dominated by K3 talk, but it's
just because it's an exciting new product.
There are exciting existing products, too!

You might like the Nabble.com archive of Elecraft's list:
http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-f365791.html

Click on Advanced Search and type KX1 in the subject field, or
search using Advanced Search in the message body on topics that interest
you.

Brief note: build the KX1, get it working, then add the options such as
the KATX1.  That's the same as with your K1.
(Of course, you may need to do RX only before doing the KATX1 if you
don't have another tuner.)
The 80-30 involves some re-work and a few fiddly bits, so savor your
working 40-20 KX1 for a bit before you move on to the 80-30 bands.  It
will probably take about an evening to do, and you will likely want some
satisfaction in the bank before you start it, plus you'll know it works!

With the KATX1, there are a few problems people often encounter:
although it's build in place and is plugged in when you're done,
replugging it can get in the wrong sockets.  Pre-wound toroids will take
care of most transformer phasing problem.  But watch out for getting the
iron near the relays (just as with the K1).  Even a light brush with the
case can spell the end for the relay.

You'll reach the most KX1 owners on this list if you start your subjects
with KX1, just as you have here.  Some folks start with [KX1] just to
separate it out from the rest of the subject.

73 es GL,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
K2#3121
K3#51
KX1#712 http://n2.nabble.com/KX1--712-on-the-air-td367586.html

Just got my KX1 the other day and am getting ready to build.  I previously 
built a K1 a few years ago and it works perfectly.

Haven't been on this Elecraft reflector in a long time and need a bit of 
help/advice.

A few questions:

1. Are  there any archived threads about the KX1, and if so, how do I get there?

2. I have the 80-30 option as well as the internal ATU.

3. I made all my own toroids for my K1, but at my age now, 68, I got my toroids 
from Mychael this time.

4. Is communication possible via E mail with other KX1 owners?

Thanks  73

Bob, W9EWW
  



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[Elecraft] Fwd: SDR Transforms Amateur Radio

2008-08-21 Thread Aubrey




http://electronicdesign.com/Articles/ArticleID/19439/19439.html



No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fences

2008-08-21 Thread WILLIS COOKE
I have a pulse noise that I thought was a fence charger, but it is to the north 
and the only electric fence that I have found is south east.  In another 
internet discussion someone mentioned that he had traced a similar interference 
to a blinking caution light.  Sure enough I have a blinking caution light 1.5 
miles to the north.  Fortunately for me the interference is very light and can 
only be heard on a nearly dead band.  Fence chargers are not the only source of 
a pulse with about one second interval.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ


--- On Thu, 8/21/08, Tom W8JI [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Tom W8JI [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Electric fences
 To: Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, August 21, 2008, 6:01 PM
  Again, the noise isn't from the charger ...
 it's generated
  along the wire.  Carrying an AM radio along the fence
 may
  be helpful  and is useful in illustrating to the fence
 
  owner what
  you're talking about.  He/she may already be aware
 of the
  noise and not know the source. (:-))
 
 While it is true most problems seem to be caused by bad 
 connections in the fence, the most severe problem I had
 with 
 an electric fence was caused by a charger! The charger was 
 sent back and the replacement charger produced exactly the 
 same problem. I put RF chokes on it, ferrite beads, you
 name 
 it.
 
 My neighbor switched to a different brand and the problem 
 vanished.
 
 I've generally had varying success with an AM broadcast
 
 radio, but a VHF aircraft radio always lets me walk right
 up 
 to the bad area.
 
 73 Tom
 
 
 
 
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