Re: [Elecraft] Fiberglass Poles

[Don Wilhelm]

Brett,

Try http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm to see if they have 
what you want.  If not, Google on Fiberglass tubing and you will find 
many other resources.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brett Howard wrote:
> Anyone have any good tips on where to pick up fiberglass spreader poles
> for the making of a hex beam?
>
> ~Brett
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

That is exactly what I said.  In CALP, if the load is anything other 
than 50+j0, the power indication will be incorrect.  In other words, the 
requested power may not equal the actual power.

When you go to AUTO and do a TUNE, the forward power should be close to 
the requested power.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Campie wrote:
> I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP.  With the tuner tuned  
> to a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the output  
> power by any definition of the word.
>
> Tom
>
> On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
>   
>> Tom,
>>
>> No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be working  
>> into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you are  
>> connected to an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than  
>> 50+j0 impedance, you can expect "unexpected" results.
>> When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has  
>> done its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out  
>> will be as requested.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Tom Campie wrote:
>> 
>>> This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found   
>>> anything on it yet:
>>>
>>> I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well  
>>> calibrated  power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on  
>>> 40m at home, I  set my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The  
>>> tuner now reads  2.9w.  Not until I tune the requested power to 8  
>>> watts or so does the  tuner say I'm putting out 5 watts.  Isn't  
>>> there a way to adjust it so  that the requested power matches the  
>>> tuner output power so that the S/ Power meter reads the right  
>>> value?  That's the most annoying part...
>>>
>>> Tom
>>> __
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>>>
>>>
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>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database:  
>>> 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00
>>>
>>>
>>>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fiberglass Poles

[Uwe Pobel]

Hello,
Ask DL7IO.

73 DK4WW

- Ursprüngliche Nachricht -
Von: Brett Howard 
Gesendet: Montag, 20. Juli 2009 05:19
An: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: [Elecraft] Fiberglass Poles

Anyone have any good tips on where to pick up fiberglass spreader poles
for the making of a hex beam?

~Brett

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[Elecraft] Fiberglass Poles

[Brett Howard]

Anyone have any good tips on where to pick up fiberglass spreader poles
for the making of a hex beam?

~Brett

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA & FP Temp Settings

[Brett Howard]

And things should run even warmer if you have the sub receiver
installed.

On Sun, 2009-07-19 at 21:42 -0500, Rob May wrote:
> Ron, 
> 35C is only about 97F, totally normal inside electronic equipment when it's 
> turned on.  Nothing to worry about.  My FP and PA temp also stay around 35C 
> in a 23C (74F) room when not transmitting.
> Rob
> NV5E

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for July 19th & 20th, 2009

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   The twenty meter net was challenging due to weak signals and QSB.  Forty 
meters was challenging in another way with heavy QRN covering some signals 
pretty well.  However we persevered and dug as many stations as possible out of 
the muck and mire.  Weather reports, except for those of us out west were cool. 
 Just wait folks this heat wave may just flow in your direction.  My forecast 
is for 90 degrees or better until next Saturday when my forecast ends.  96 
degrees?  Up here?  Fire danger is going to skyrocket!  Already I am seeing 
fire crews driving the roads watching the valleys with binoculars.  There used 
to be a fire lookout tower on the top of this mountain but it was demolished in 
the mid 70s.  Too bad, it would be nice to have a neighbor each summer.  
Many of the flowers which were blooming last week are now drooping.  Turk's 
cap lilies especially.  If they are in the shade they are OK but when they face 
the sun they are wilting.  The hummingbirds are almost all gone.  The feeder 
has not needed to be filled in three days where it was needing a refill each 
day.  Now that nesting is done they are probably seeking somewhere cooler to 
reside.  Sounds like a good idea.  When the heat reaches this altitude I will 
hike down to a nearby pond and read near it in the shade.  That should be 
cooler than sitting in the house or roasting in the woods while I split wood.  
Luckily the wood dries very well in this weather; that is why I cut it so 
early.  Now I am prepared for the first few months of heating season with very 
dry wood.
   
   On to the lists =>

  On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
WA4NTM - Jim - AL
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767     QNI #95
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
N6JW - John - CA - K3 - 936  QNI #55!!!

  On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183      * QNI #130 *
N6MQL - Mike - CA - K3 - 2665
W8OV - Dave - TX - K2 - 3139
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
N5SM - Scott - TX - K3 - 1802
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
KB3FBR - Joe - PA
AE6IC - Fred - CA - K2 - 3224
  
   I know there are a few fills required but if there are any errors in the 
above lists please email me with the corrections.  By the way, on twenty meters 
I was barely able to copy N0SS.  I asked if he wanted to call the net but had 
no way of hearing his reply.  Conditions were just not good.  I received a note 
between nets telling me I was not heard in the Southeast but propagation into 
Europe was great.  One never can tell about propagation ;)  
   Until next week stay cool and stay well,
  73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

-
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Tom Campie]

I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP.  With the tuner tuned  
to a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the output  
power by any definition of the word.

Tom

On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Tom,
>
> No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be working  
> into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you are  
> connected to an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than  
> 50+j0 impedance, you can expect "unexpected" results.
> When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has  
> done its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out  
> will be as requested.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Tom Campie wrote:
>> This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found   
>> anything on it yet:
>>
>> I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well  
>> calibrated  power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on  
>> 40m at home, I  set my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The  
>> tuner now reads  2.9w.  Not until I tune the requested power to 8  
>> watts or so does the  tuner say I'm putting out 5 watts.  Isn't  
>> there a way to adjust it so  that the requested power matches the  
>> tuner output power so that the S/ Power meter reads the right  
>> value?  That's the most annoying part...
>>
>> Tom
>> __
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>> 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00
>>
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be working 
into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you are connected to 
an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than 50+j0 impedance, 
you can expect "unexpected" results.
When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has done 
its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out will be 
as requested.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Campie wrote:
> This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found  
> anything on it yet:
>
> I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well calibrated  
> power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on 40m at home, I  
> set my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The tuner now reads  
> 2.9w.  Not until I tune the requested power to 8 watts or so does the  
> tuner say I'm putting out 5 watts.  Isn't there a way to adjust it so  
> that the requested power matches the tuner output power so that the S/ 
> Power meter reads the right value?  That's the most annoying part...
>
> Tom
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 
> 05:57:00
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>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA & FP Temp Settings

[Rob May]

Ron, 
35C is only about 97F, totally normal inside electronic equipment when it's 
turned on.  Nothing to worry about.  My FP and PA temp also stay around 35C in 
a 23C (74F) room when not transmitting.
Rob
NV5E

> From: mid...@mo-rep.com
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 18:03:13 -0700
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 PA & FP Temp Settings
> 
> I recently noticed the temperature of the case on my K-3 seemed a little
> warmer than usual (the room temp here has been up to 25 C).
> 
>  
> 
> I checked the 2 settings on the PA TEMP and FP TEMP and they both were
> reading as high as 35 C.  I checked in the manual and per instructions,
> turned the radio off for 15 minutes, and then back on, and then set the 2
> settings to 25 C.
> 
>  
> 
> The radio still seems to get warmer, and even when I leave it on in standby
> the temps both go back up to the low 30's.
> 
>  
> 
> Is this normal?  Is there a way to set the thermostat (if that's the correct
> term) so that the fans go on to keep the radio running cooler?
> 
>  
> 
> 73,
> 
>  
> 
> Ron
> 
> AE6RH
> 
> S/N 1997
> 
>  
> 
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[Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Tom Campie]

This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found  
anything on it yet:

I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well calibrated  
power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on 40m at home, I  
set my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The tuner now reads  
2.9w.  Not until I tune the requested power to 8 watts or so does the  
tuner say I'm putting out 5 watts.  Isn't there a way to adjust it so  
that the requested power matches the tuner output power so that the S/ 
Power meter reads the right value?  That's the most annoying part...

Tom
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[Elecraft] FS: KAT - 100 for K2

[N9KO]

I am selling a built KAT-100, the 100 watt external auto tuner.  I sold my K2 
and have not need for this.  It works well.  The kit sells for $239.95.  I will 
sell this for $240 (U.S. only), shipping included.  
 
N9KO
Calvin
 

 
>From the Elecraft site:  
The KAT100 is an ideal match for the K2/100, and will also work with the K2. It 
can easily handle from 200 mW to 100 watts, and its 10 LEDs accurately monitor 
SWR during transmit. Like the KAT2, the KAT100 includes two antenna jacks--it's 
like having two ATUs in one. 

Because of its tight integration with the K2, the KAT100 offers many advantages 
over other external auto-tuners:

Key Features :

Low profile (1.2" high) design -- same footprint as the K2. 

L/C settings stored in EEPROM--instant recall on band or antenna change 

Matches 10:1 SWR loads. 

Automatic power reduction when TUNE is pressed 

Dual-range bridge allows tune-up with as little as 0.2 watts 

Direct display of power, SWR, and other data on the K2's LCD 

Interfaces directly with the K2 via the AUX port (DB9 + 'Y' cable on KPA100 or 
KIO2). 

Same K2 control and menu features as the KAT2 QRP tuner. 

The low-profile KAT100-1 can be placed beneath the K2, while the full-height 
KAT100-2 is intended for side-by-side arrangement with the K2 and mounts inside 
the EC-2 project enclosure. The KAT100-2 includes front and rear panels that 
match our EC2. (EC2 sold separately.)

Pre-wound toroids for the KAT100 kit are also available from Mychael, AA3WF. 
Pre Wound Toroids Order Form

KAT100 reviews at eHam.net

Note: The KAT100 requires a K2 or K2/100 to operate. (KIO2 or KPA100 option 
must be installed in the K2 order to interface to KAT100.)

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[Elecraft] K3 PA & FP Temp Settings

[Ron Midwin]

I recently noticed the temperature of the case on my K-3 seemed a little
warmer than usual (the room temp here has been up to 25 C).

 

I checked the 2 settings on the PA TEMP and FP TEMP and they both were
reading as high as 35 C.  I checked in the manual and per instructions,
turned the radio off for 15 minutes, and then back on, and then set the 2
settings to 25 C.

 

The radio still seems to get warmer, and even when I leave it on in standby
the temps both go back up to the low 30's.

 

Is this normal?  Is there a way to set the thermostat (if that's the correct
term) so that the fans go on to keep the radio running cooler?

 

73,

 

Ron

AE6RH

S/N 1997

 

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[Elecraft] K3/100 and SGC-500 incompatibility

[Jack Amsden]

I  own K3/100 SN 3161, and an SGC SG-500 Smartpowercube Linear Power Amplifier.

When the radio was a K3/10 it worked well with the Amplifier, giving a 
noticeable increase in power. 

With the K3/100  (no internal antenna tuner) the Amplifier drops of line 
displaying a VSWR problem at any power level.  SGC advises this response normal 
when a 200 volt switching transient exists. 

An Icom IC-7000 works well with the Amplifier/manual tuner/G5RV antenna.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jack, K7MKG




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Floor 160m - 75m

[Paul Christensen]

> Holy cow 10T?  Thats a big chunk of iron.  Kinda surprised you had
> enough cable length for that... :)

I just finished winding 10T through the largest #31 clamp-on sold through DX 
Engineering.  Tight and even turns will get you there.   It's located right 
at the K3's RS-232 port.   However, there's still not enough choking 
reactance to bring the noise floor down all the way.  So, there may be a 
direct path of RFI through the connector.

Admittedly, I am being fussy here because an antenna connected to the K3 
masks the problem.  But, I'm still bothered with the problem since the K3 
should be immune to a device connected through its RS-232 port.  From here, 
I see two possible solutions:

1) Adding an RS-232 card to my PC thereby eliminating the USB converter; or
2) Using an opto-isolated RS232-to-USB converter.  I found a couple on the 
web, but these are big $$$ devices.

Either way, there's no guarantee that either choice will completely mitigate 
the noise.  My K3 is current with grounding mods and it also has the new 
remote KIO3 board.  I'll keep experimenting

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Floor 160m - 75m

[Brett Howard]

Holy cow 10T?  Thats a big chunk of iron.  Kinda surprised you had
enough cable length for that... :)

On Sun, 2009-07-19 at 15:01 -0400, Paul Christensen wrote:
> Problem solved.  The RS232-to-USB adapter between the K3 and PC is 
> responsible for 100% of the noise.  I now recall running into this issue 
> before with the Elecraft USB adapter used on my LP-100 wattmeter.  10T 
> through a #31 Fair-Rite toroid cleaned it up completely.
> 
> Paul, W9AC
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Paul Christensen" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:15 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Floor 160m - 75m
> 
> 
> >I was recently looking at the noise floor of my K3 with SDR-IQ with antenna
> > disconnected.  As I went from the upper bands down to 75m and 160m, I
> > noticed that the noise floor was not particularly clean on some portions 
> > of
> > the low bands.  I have attached links to two print-screen shots of what I 
> > am
> > referring to.  In both cases, the antenna is disconnected and the pre-amp 
> > is
> > engaged.  I can hear the high noise floor as well as see it on the SDR-IQ
> > screen, even with the SDR-IQ disconnected.  A few more important points:
> >
> > 1) The radio is not being coupled to a nearby magnetic field.  The shots
> > taken are isolated from the radio shack and the rig is battery-powered as 
> > is
> > the laptop PC.  Same result when the rig is in the shack and connected to 
> > a
> > desktop PC;
> >
> > 2) The result is the same if I toggle the ANT2 port with no antenna
> > attached.;
> >
> > 3) Although I am sampling the IF with the SDR-IQ, the noise floor remains
> > with the SDR-IQ completely disconnected from the K3.  The only relevant 
> > mod
> > is the change to the IF voltage divider as described by N8LP; and
> >
> > 4) With the pre-amp disengaged, the noise floor drops as expected, but the
> > noise floor rise as shown in the screen capture is still evident.
> >
> > In the first link, I have captured the effect on the upper end of 75m.
> > Notice that the broadband noise bump is generally just outside the band 
> > but
> > even so, the noise floor is noticeably higher than when measured down 
> > toward
> > 80m as shown in the second link:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/ltyc2o
> >
> > Down toward 80m...
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/kpxhgb
> >
> > I can replicate this on 160m as well.  All other bands are clean.  Can
> > someone confirm this effect by using their K3 (with N8LP buffer mod) and
> > SDR-IQ unit and get back to me by private E-mail?  Thanks!
> >
> > Paul, W9AC
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > 
> 
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[Elecraft] WTB: K2 Noise Blanker

[bicyclepeddl...@netzero.com]

If you have one you wish to find a new home for, please let me know.
John
N0LT




Med Malpractice Lawyers
Lawyers Specializing in Personal Injury Cases. Call Us-Free Consult!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Floor 160m - 75m

[Paul Christensen]

Problem solved.  The RS232-to-USB adapter between the K3 and PC is 
responsible for 100% of the noise.  I now recall running into this issue 
before with the Elecraft USB adapter used on my LP-100 wattmeter.  10T 
through a #31 Fair-Rite toroid cleaned it up completely.

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Christensen" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:15 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Noise Floor 160m - 75m


>I was recently looking at the noise floor of my K3 with SDR-IQ with antenna
> disconnected.  As I went from the upper bands down to 75m and 160m, I
> noticed that the noise floor was not particularly clean on some portions 
> of
> the low bands.  I have attached links to two print-screen shots of what I 
> am
> referring to.  In both cases, the antenna is disconnected and the pre-amp 
> is
> engaged.  I can hear the high noise floor as well as see it on the SDR-IQ
> screen, even with the SDR-IQ disconnected.  A few more important points:
>
> 1) The radio is not being coupled to a nearby magnetic field.  The shots
> taken are isolated from the radio shack and the rig is battery-powered as 
> is
> the laptop PC.  Same result when the rig is in the shack and connected to 
> a
> desktop PC;
>
> 2) The result is the same if I toggle the ANT2 port with no antenna
> attached.;
>
> 3) Although I am sampling the IF with the SDR-IQ, the noise floor remains
> with the SDR-IQ completely disconnected from the K3.  The only relevant 
> mod
> is the change to the IF voltage divider as described by N8LP; and
>
> 4) With the pre-amp disengaged, the noise floor drops as expected, but the
> noise floor rise as shown in the screen capture is still evident.
>
> In the first link, I have captured the effect on the upper end of 75m.
> Notice that the broadband noise bump is generally just outside the band 
> but
> even so, the noise floor is noticeably higher than when measured down 
> toward
> 80m as shown in the second link:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ltyc2o
>
> Down toward 80m...
>
> http://tinyurl.com/kpxhgb
>
> I can replicate this on 160m as well.  All other bands are clean.  Can
> someone confirm this effect by using their K3 (with N8LP buffer mod) and
> SDR-IQ unit and get back to me by private E-mail?  Thanks!
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
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> 

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[Elecraft] WTB KAT/100

[Ned Newlin]

I am wanting to buy a KAT/100 tuner for my K2.  Either case would be 
ok.  Please contact off list with pictures, condition and price.  
Looking for a unit in excellent operating/mechanical condition.  Thanks 
and 73.  Ned Newlin, W8VFM, n...@cass.net
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 
05:57:00
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[Elecraft] Need a resistor?

[Gregory Fischer]

If someone finds themselves in need of some off the wall resistor let  
me know...I may have one.  I went to a garage sale (more like a block  
sale) in Anacortes Saturday morning and found 3 parts cabinets chock  
full of resistors.  The parts drawers are even labeled.  :)  There's  
gotta be a couple thousand resistor in all.

73
Greg
AB7R

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[Elecraft] K3 Noise Floor 160m - 75m

[Paul Christensen]

I was recently looking at the noise floor of my K3 with SDR-IQ with antenna 
disconnected.  As I went from the upper bands down to 75m and 160m, I 
noticed that the noise floor was not particularly clean on some portions of 
the low bands.  I have attached links to two print-screen shots of what I am 
referring to.  In both cases, the antenna is disconnected and the pre-amp is 
engaged.  I can hear the high noise floor as well as see it on the SDR-IQ 
screen, even with the SDR-IQ disconnected.  A few more important points:

1) The radio is not being coupled to a nearby magnetic field.  The shots 
taken are isolated from the radio shack and the rig is battery-powered as is 
the laptop PC.  Same result when the rig is in the shack and connected to a 
desktop PC;

2) The result is the same if I toggle the ANT2 port with no antenna 
attached.;

3) Although I am sampling the IF with the SDR-IQ, the noise floor remains 
with the SDR-IQ completely disconnected from the K3.  The only relevant mod 
is the change to the IF voltage divider as described by N8LP; and

4) With the pre-amp disengaged, the noise floor drops as expected, but the 
noise floor rise as shown in the screen capture is still evident.

In the first link, I have captured the effect on the upper end of 75m. 
Notice that the broadband noise bump is generally just outside the band but 
even so, the noise floor is noticeably higher than when measured down toward 
80m as shown in the second link:

http://tinyurl.com/ltyc2o

Down toward 80m...

http://tinyurl.com/kpxhgb

I can replicate this on 160m as well.  All other bands are clean.  Can 
someone confirm this effect by using their K3 (with N8LP buffer mod) and 
SDR-IQ unit and get back to me by private E-mail?  Thanks!

Paul, W9AC

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[Elecraft] USB not working

[Vasan Chakravarthy]

Hi all,
I completed assembling my K3 kit (Sl#3191), and it was a pleasure!
The rig is working fine.
However, I have one big problem.
It does not transmit on USB, but LSB is fine.
i.e., I made some contacts on 7MHz, but nothing works on higher bands. I see
no power at all on 14MHz (USB) .
The meter in SWR/PWR, has no indication when use the Mic. No power is going
out.
Everything works fine on 7MHz (LSB).

Hope one of you can help me troubleshoot this.
Thanks in advance,

Vasan
wz3h
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Re: [Elecraft] Simple question about the K2

[Bob]

Hi Hector,

Not sure what you are asking about but if just keyer 
speed it as someone else pointed out, the"Keyer" knob on the front 
panel.  You do mention that you  want to use QSK, if you are referring 
to speeding up the QSK that is  mentioned in the Nifty manual  on page 
11, "Setting the Break-in (QSK) delay"   It is also again mentioned on 
page 22 as a primary menu item "T-R".

 At least that is correct for my version of the Nifty 
manual, there may be other versions out there. 

73,
Bob
K2TK

Hector Padron wrote:
> Maybe I am blind but I have been reading the factory manual and also the 
> nifty manual that came with my K2 that arrived yesterday morning and I am 
> really enchanted with it but I can't find anywhere how to change the CW keyer 
> speed,I am a qsk op and I need to set it up faster,can anyone tell me how to 
> set it up? Thanks
>  
> AD4C
>  
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] Simple question about the K2

[Andrew Moore]

> Maybe I am blind but I have been reading the factory manual and also the
nifty manual that came with my K2 that arrived yesterday morning and I am
really enchanted with it but I can't find anywhere how to change the CW
keyer speed,I am a qsk op and I need to set it up faster,can anyone tell me
how to set it up? Thanks

I'm assuming you mean either faster than the 50 wpm that the knob goes to,
or how do you adjust the QSK / break-in value.

If I remember correctly you can key the rig up to about 70 WPM using an
external keyer, but due to the fact that the CPU is controlling the keying
(and loads of other stuff), this really is the max value for high speed
operating on the K2.

If you're talking about the break-in delay for QSK, I think there's a menu
setting for it -- hit Edit, then scroll through the menus using the VFO knob
until you reach "t-r" whose default I think was .02 (seconds).

If you're looking for Corsair II like QSK on the K2, I don't think the K2
can match it.  Then again, not much can :)

--Andrew, NV1B
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Re: [Elecraft] Simple question about the K2

[dave . wilburn]

Rotate the knob titled keyer.

Dave Wilburn
NM4M
--Original Message--
From: Hector Padron
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Simple question about the K2
Sent: Jul 19, 2009 11:15

Maybe I am blind but I have been reading the factory manual and also the nifty 
manual that came with my K2 that arrived yesterday morning and I am really 
enchanted with it but I can't find anywhere how to change the CW keyer speed,I 
am a qsk op and I need to set it up faster,can anyone tell me how to set it up? 
Thanks
 
AD4C
 


"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits".. 
-- Albert Einstein


  
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Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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Re: [Elecraft] Simple question about the K2

[Dave Sergeant]

On 19 Jul 2009 at 8:15, Hector Padron wrote:

> Maybe I am blind but I have been reading the factory manual and also the
> nifty manual that came with my K2 that arrived yesterday morning and I
> am really enchanted with it but I can't find anywhere how to change the
> CW keyer speed,I am a qsk op and I need to set it up faster,can anyone
> tell me how to set it up? Thanks

Use the 'KEYER' knob, the top left hand one of the group of four left 
of the tuning knob. Or maybe you really are blind?...

73 Dave G3YMC

http://www.davesergeant.com

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[Elecraft] Simple question about the K2

[Hector Padron]

Maybe I am blind but I have been reading the factory manual and also the nifty 
manual that came with my K2 that arrived yesterday morning and I am really 
enchanted with it but I can't find anywhere how to change the CW keyer speed,I 
am a qsk op and I need to set it up faster,can anyone tell me how to set it up? 
Thanks
 
AD4C
 


"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits".. 
-- Albert Einstein


  
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[Elecraft] k3 RX on two VFO´s?

[Jorge Diez - CX6VM]

Hello,
 
It´s possible in the K3 ro RX at the same time in both VFO´s?
 
For example TX in 7088 and RX in 7088 and 7187at the same time, as PROIII
do?
 
Thanks,
Jorge
CX6VM
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Operating Guide

[Hector Padron]

The nifty manual for the K2 is great,it covers everything you will need to know 
this radio,I have one the seller sent me but there is something you should know 
before purchase it,letters are  very small,if you are old and have problem with 
your eyes,you better wear your reading lenses.
 
AD4C
 


"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits".. 
-- Albert Einstein

--- On Sun, 7/19/09, Jim Brown  wrote:


From: Jim Brown 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Operating Guide
To: "Dick Dievendorff" 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 4:49 AM


If you are looking for a small, convenient desk reference for the K2,
see http://www.niftyaccessories.com/Elecraft_RefGuide.htm .

Regards,
Jim
K5JAZ

On 7/18/09, Dick Dievendorff  wrote:
> The latest K2 manual is available for download from Elecraft's web
> site. You should have this even if you choose to also purchase another
> guide.
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#K2
>
> Dick, K6KR
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 19, 2009, at 1:50 AM, "bicyclepeddl...@netzero.com"
>   > wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>> I recently purchased a prebuilt K2.  It did not come with the manual
>> or operating guide.
>> Is there a consensus on which of the several guides that are on the
>> market is the best one to have?
>> Thanks,
>> John
>> N0LT
>>
>>
>> Be well and do good things.
>>
>> 
>> Handyman Franchises. Click Here.
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/BLSrjpYbiOGVIPMv4RoviGvCkDCGjvRZMNw3hee7XYe4ZuZf6t1Zr8vYi32/
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Re: [Elecraft] OT posts

[David Woolley]

Ron Spencer wrote:
>  In the most recent digest version of the reflector I counted 10 of the 48
> posts as having nothing to do with Elecraft. Can we please, please keep this
> reflector focused on Elecraft? An example is the doublet string that went on

Please see sections 4a (para 2, first sentence) and 5a of the list 
charter, at .



-- 
David Woolley
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